Chipped Crankshaft Pulley
06-08-2004 | 12:34 AM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Chipped Crankshaft Pulley
On Mon, 07 Jun 2004 15:50:52 GMT, "E. Meyer" <e52.meyer0SPAM@ieee.org>
wrote:
>On 6/7/04 2:17 AM, in article d728c05c8n2i1t3msjo708aj13mgl0d16n@4ax.com,
>"George Macdonald" <fammacd=!SPAM^nothanks@tellurian.com> wrote:
>> In recent Honda manuals, where they show the holding tool, there is
>> specific advice to *not* use an impact wrench. It's something which has
>> always bothered me - the thought of the bearings getting pounded and the
>> valve gear flapping around.
>>
>
>They only caution not to use the impact wrench when re-installing. No
>problem using it to remove the bolt.
They also show the use of a holding tool and torque wrench to remove the
bolt - read it how you want.
Rgds, George Macdonald
"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??
wrote:
>On 6/7/04 2:17 AM, in article d728c05c8n2i1t3msjo708aj13mgl0d16n@4ax.com,
>"George Macdonald" <fammacd=!SPAM^nothanks@tellurian.com> wrote:
>> In recent Honda manuals, where they show the holding tool, there is
>> specific advice to *not* use an impact wrench. It's something which has
>> always bothered me - the thought of the bearings getting pounded and the
>> valve gear flapping around.
>>
>
>They only caution not to use the impact wrench when re-installing. No
>problem using it to remove the bolt.
They also show the use of a holding tool and torque wrench to remove the
bolt - read it how you want.
Rgds, George Macdonald
"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??
06-08-2004 | 12:44 AM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Chipped Crankshaft Pulley
Caroline wrote:
>
> I'm tempted to buy a second, used crankshaft pulley and then try a
> modified version of your tool. If I bust the old pulley completely, I'll
> get the correct pulley holder tool and somehow figure out how to get the
> torque needed with it. Then chalk this all up to "education."
The pulley holding tool at the etoolcart site looks very much like the one
that's illustrated in the manual. However, the honda manual also specifies
that there's a special socket that's to be used with this tool,
http://tinyurl.com/3bbuk. I didn't see this socket available at the
etoolcart site. It might be worth your while to call them and inquire about
the socket. It could be that they intend for you to use your own socket.
For that to work, you'll need to know the inside diameter of their tool and
find a socket that will work.
Eric
>
> I'm tempted to buy a second, used crankshaft pulley and then try a
> modified version of your tool. If I bust the old pulley completely, I'll
> get the correct pulley holder tool and somehow figure out how to get the
> torque needed with it. Then chalk this all up to "education."
The pulley holding tool at the etoolcart site looks very much like the one
that's illustrated in the manual. However, the honda manual also specifies
that there's a special socket that's to be used with this tool,
http://tinyurl.com/3bbuk. I didn't see this socket available at the
etoolcart site. It might be worth your while to call them and inquire about
the socket. It could be that they intend for you to use your own socket.
For that to work, you'll need to know the inside diameter of their tool and
find a socket that will work.
Eric
06-08-2004 | 03:31 AM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Chipped Crankshaft Pulley
On Mon, 07 Jun 2004 21:44:00 -0700, Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote:
>Caroline wrote:
>>
>> I'm tempted to buy a second, used crankshaft pulley and then try a
>> modified version of your tool. If I bust the old pulley completely, I'll
>> get the correct pulley holder tool and somehow figure out how to get the
>> torque needed with it. Then chalk this all up to "education."
>
>The pulley holding tool at the etoolcart site looks very much like the one
>that's illustrated in the manual. However, the honda manual also specifies
>that there's a special socket that's to be used with this tool,
>http://tinyurl.com/3bbuk. I didn't see this socket available at the
>etoolcart site. It might be worth your while to call them and inquire about
>the socket. It could be that they intend for you to use your own socket.
>For that to work, you'll need to know the inside diameter of their tool and
>find a socket that will work.
It's my impression that's just the socket to use with the holding tool and
which gives a little extra depth to get at the bolt head. I'm sure you can
use either just a deep socket or regular socket+extension on a breaker bar
- get the impact strength socket and/or extension type if you think it'll
be better and flex less under torque. I have the Honda 50mm hex tool and
handle and it doesn't require any special socket - it's quite flush with
the pulley face.
Rgds, George Macdonald
"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??
>Caroline wrote:
>>
>> I'm tempted to buy a second, used crankshaft pulley and then try a
>> modified version of your tool. If I bust the old pulley completely, I'll
>> get the correct pulley holder tool and somehow figure out how to get the
>> torque needed with it. Then chalk this all up to "education."
>
>The pulley holding tool at the etoolcart site looks very much like the one
>that's illustrated in the manual. However, the honda manual also specifies
>that there's a special socket that's to be used with this tool,
>http://tinyurl.com/3bbuk. I didn't see this socket available at the
>etoolcart site. It might be worth your while to call them and inquire about
>the socket. It could be that they intend for you to use your own socket.
>For that to work, you'll need to know the inside diameter of their tool and
>find a socket that will work.
It's my impression that's just the socket to use with the holding tool and
which gives a little extra depth to get at the bolt head. I'm sure you can
use either just a deep socket or regular socket+extension on a breaker bar
- get the impact strength socket and/or extension type if you think it'll
be better and flex less under torque. I have the Honda 50mm hex tool and
handle and it doesn't require any special socket - it's quite flush with
the pulley face.
Rgds, George Macdonald
"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??
06-08-2004 | 04:40 AM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Chipped Crankshaft Pulley
George Macdonald wrote:
> It's my impression that's just the socket to use with the holding tool
Correct...
> and which gives a little extra depth to get at the bolt head.
Not entirely. The socket fits through the center part of the holding tool
and functions as a fulcrum allowing the tool to lock the pulley in place.
In essence, the socket is performing two jobs, i.e., it forms a second pin
in the tool similar to the outer bolt that I used in the tool that I made
for my crankshaft pulley (http://tinyurl.com/2x432) and also allows you to
loosen the pulley bolt. The Honda service manual even states that some
molybdenum grease should be applied to the socket thereby suggesting that
the clearance between the holding tool and the socket is important (allowing
the socket to turn while under the friction from acting as a holding pin).
> I'm sure you can use either just a deep socket or regular
> socket+extension on a breaker bar - get the impact strength socket and/or
> extension type if you think it'll be better and flex less under torque.
> I have the Honda 50mm hex tool and handle and it doesn't require any
> special socket - it's quite flush with the pulley face.
Correct. However, the two pulley holding tools work in different ways.
Having the tool flush with the pulley face, although important due to
clearance limitations, is not relevant since the tool for the early pulleys
uses pins to lock into the pulley. A deep impact socket may indeed work.
However, the socket's length and diameter may be important in order for the
tool to function efficiently.
Eric
> It's my impression that's just the socket to use with the holding tool
Correct...
> and which gives a little extra depth to get at the bolt head.
Not entirely. The socket fits through the center part of the holding tool
and functions as a fulcrum allowing the tool to lock the pulley in place.
In essence, the socket is performing two jobs, i.e., it forms a second pin
in the tool similar to the outer bolt that I used in the tool that I made
for my crankshaft pulley (http://tinyurl.com/2x432) and also allows you to
loosen the pulley bolt. The Honda service manual even states that some
molybdenum grease should be applied to the socket thereby suggesting that
the clearance between the holding tool and the socket is important (allowing
the socket to turn while under the friction from acting as a holding pin).
> I'm sure you can use either just a deep socket or regular
> socket+extension on a breaker bar - get the impact strength socket and/or
> extension type if you think it'll be better and flex less under torque.
> I have the Honda 50mm hex tool and handle and it doesn't require any
> special socket - it's quite flush with the pulley face.
Correct. However, the two pulley holding tools work in different ways.
Having the tool flush with the pulley face, although important due to
clearance limitations, is not relevant since the tool for the early pulleys
uses pins to lock into the pulley. A deep impact socket may indeed work.
However, the socket's length and diameter may be important in order for the
tool to function efficiently.
Eric
06-08-2004 | 10:57 AM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Chipped Crankshaft Pulley
On 6/7/04 11:34 PM, in article 1obac051stp6gr1cp6or95k141qrf6b@4ax.com,
"George Macdonald" <fammacd=!SPAM^nothanks@tellurian.com> wrote:
> On Mon, 07 Jun 2004 15:50:52 GMT, "E. Meyer" <e52.meyer0SPAM@ieee.org>
> wrote:
>
>> On 6/7/04 2:17 AM, in article d728c05c8n2i1t3msjo708aj13mgl0d16n@4ax.com,
>> "George Macdonald" <fammacd=!SPAM^nothanks@tellurian.com> wrote:
>>> In recent Honda manuals, where they show the holding tool, there is
>>> specific advice to *not* use an impact wrench. It's something which has
>>> always bothered me - the thought of the bearings getting pounded and the
>>> valve gear flapping around.
>>>
>>
>> They only caution not to use the impact wrench when re-installing. No
>> problem using it to remove the bolt.
>
> They also show the use of a holding tool and torque wrench to remove the
> bolt - read it how you want.
>
> Rgds, George Macdonald
>
> "Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??
I have heard a number of reasons why it should be OK to use the impact
wrench to remove it, but not to torque it. Honda doesn't give a reason. My
hypotheses is that you not use the impact wrench to torque it down for fear
a cutting torch will be needed to get it off the next time.
Not having the impact wrench, I've executed that picture on the '96 Odyssey
and the '96 Integra when removing the bolt. Fun to watch from a safe
distance, especially on the Odyssey.
You need a hardened impact socket, extension and breaker bar (lesser stuff
will simply break). All standard sockets fit into the center of the tool.
That was not an issue. You do want a deep well socket though. I used a
jack stand for a fulcrum, a 4 foot piece of gas pipe on the breaker bar for
leverage and a second hardened breaker bar on the "tool" which was allowed
to brace itself against the frame to immobilize the crank shaft. The part
that was fun to watch was the hardened socket extension twisting a full 90
degrees before bolt broke loose. I still don't understand why something
(socket, extension, breaker bar, etc.) didn't break. If I had access to an
impact wrench, I certainly would have used it.
Retightening afterward with a torque wrench is an anti-climax. That 181
ft-lbs of torque to put it back (less on the Integra) is no big deal at all
compared to taking it off.
"George Macdonald" <fammacd=!SPAM^nothanks@tellurian.com> wrote:
> On Mon, 07 Jun 2004 15:50:52 GMT, "E. Meyer" <e52.meyer0SPAM@ieee.org>
> wrote:
>
>> On 6/7/04 2:17 AM, in article d728c05c8n2i1t3msjo708aj13mgl0d16n@4ax.com,
>> "George Macdonald" <fammacd=!SPAM^nothanks@tellurian.com> wrote:
>>> In recent Honda manuals, where they show the holding tool, there is
>>> specific advice to *not* use an impact wrench. It's something which has
>>> always bothered me - the thought of the bearings getting pounded and the
>>> valve gear flapping around.
>>>
>>
>> They only caution not to use the impact wrench when re-installing. No
>> problem using it to remove the bolt.
>
> They also show the use of a holding tool and torque wrench to remove the
> bolt - read it how you want.
>
> Rgds, George Macdonald
>
> "Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??
I have heard a number of reasons why it should be OK to use the impact
wrench to remove it, but not to torque it. Honda doesn't give a reason. My
hypotheses is that you not use the impact wrench to torque it down for fear
a cutting torch will be needed to get it off the next time.
Not having the impact wrench, I've executed that picture on the '96 Odyssey
and the '96 Integra when removing the bolt. Fun to watch from a safe
distance, especially on the Odyssey.
You need a hardened impact socket, extension and breaker bar (lesser stuff
will simply break). All standard sockets fit into the center of the tool.
That was not an issue. You do want a deep well socket though. I used a
jack stand for a fulcrum, a 4 foot piece of gas pipe on the breaker bar for
leverage and a second hardened breaker bar on the "tool" which was allowed
to brace itself against the frame to immobilize the crank shaft. The part
that was fun to watch was the hardened socket extension twisting a full 90
degrees before bolt broke loose. I still don't understand why something
(socket, extension, breaker bar, etc.) didn't break. If I had access to an
impact wrench, I certainly would have used it.
Retightening afterward with a torque wrench is an anti-climax. That 181
ft-lbs of torque to put it back (less on the Integra) is no big deal at all
compared to taking it off.
06-08-2004 | 02:25 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
91 Civic Crankshaft Pulley Bolt Freed [Was Re: Chipped Crankshaft Pulley]
"Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote
> Caroline wrote:
> >
> > I'm tempted to buy a second, used crankshaft pulley and then try a
> > modified version of your tool. If I bust the old pulley completely, I'll
> > get the correct pulley holder tool and somehow figure out how to get the
> > torque needed with it. Then chalk this all up to "education."
>
> The pulley holding tool at the etoolcart site looks very much like the one
> that's illustrated in the manual. However, the honda manual also specifies
> that there's a special socket that's to be used with this tool,
> http://tinyurl.com/3bbuk. I didn't see this socket available at the
> etoolcart site. It might be worth your while to call them and inquire about
> the socket. It could be that they intend for you to use your own socket.
> For that to work, you'll need to know the inside diameter of their tool and
> find a socket that will work.
I looked at the drawing at the UK site more closely and see what you mean. I
also read George's and your subsequent posts. If I still needed the retail tool,
I'd likely inquire about the diameter of the socket hole's dimensions.
Onto the better news. :-)
Yesterday I had an idea for modifying Eric's version of the tool so that the
tool's steel bar does not touch the power steering pulley lip. It consists of
Eric's design plus four lock rings and some rubber hose on each bolt. The lock
rings and hose act as spacers and a protector so the bolts don't impose a force
on the power steering pulley's lip. From right to left as one is standing at the
front of the car, looking down, it's: 7/16" (pulley holding tool) bolt head, 4
lock rings, rubber hose over 7/16" bolt, crankshaft pulley, 7/16" nut.
I didn't let the 2 foot steel bar push against the suspension or car's frame.
Instead, I let the non-pulley end push against a pile of four 1/2" plywood
boards on the ground.
With a 5 foot extension pipe over the 1.5 foot long breaker bar, I proceeded
slowly, intermittently checking to see that the bolts weren't pressing against
the lip of the power steering pulley. They did not. After applying I estimate
about half my weight, the pulley bolt broke free easily. I heard that huge, loud
metallic crack that everyone describes. Some dust rose. I checked for damage;
none was evident. I pushed with the 18" breaker bar alone, and sure enough the
bolt was free.
I estimate it took around 300 ft-lbs. of torque to break the bolt free. I did
apply a little PB Blaster penetrating oil to the pulley bolt two days ago. The
last time the bolt was removed was three years ago. It looks in good shape.
JB Weld seems to be holding the chunk that chipped off the other day together
fine. I did find a salvage yard that is pretty sure they have a 91 Civic
crankshaft pulley for $35. I am still thinking of replacing the pulley and still
have some concerns about the harmonic balancer.
Had an amusing word from a dealer yesterday morning. I called Dealer Parts to
see if by chance they had the retail pulley holding tool. They said no and then
added that my troubles might be that the bolt is a left-hand thread. Ha. I said
nothing, in the name of good relations, or because dealers are what they are.
For the archives again: Early 1990s Honda Civic (or all Honda?) crankshaft
pulley bolts are right-hand threaded = right tight and left loose).
Total cost of my 1991 Civic LX 1.5 liter crankshaft pulley holding tool was
under $10 as follows:
One 3/8" thick, 2' flat steel bar (a surveying stake, technically), Lowe's =
$3.27
Two 7/16" diameter, 3" long, Gr. 8 fine thread bolts, True Value Hardware =
$3.50 (or thereabouts)
Two 7/16" diameter, Gr. 8 fine thread nuts, True Value Hardware = $1.50 (or
thereabouts)
Eight 7/16" diameter Gr. 8 lock washers, True Value Hardware = $1.04
Three inches of 1/2 " ID, 3/4" OD 200 PSI Goodyear hose, Lowe's = $0.50 (or
thereabouts)
As Eric has described, drill the 7/16" diameter holes in the steel bar at one
end, 3 inches apart. Snug up the nuts on the bolts as much as possible. There
was still a little play when I started torquing but to no adverse effect, and
the play will help assemble everything.
I strongly recommend using two high quality 1/2 inch diameter, 10-inch long
extension drives and a breaker bar at least 1.5 foot long, supported by a jack,
as shown in part in the 4th photo from the top at site
http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/honda.html . Have strong, long pipe
you can put over the breaker bar to give yourself a longer torque arm without
risking life and limb.
Of course I had to buy various new tools for this project, like a 7/16"
titanium-coated drill bit ($6 at Autozone) and a 17 mm 1/2 inch drive deep
socket ($3.50 at Pep Boys) and the usual minor wastage purchases of bolts, nuts,
tools that don't work (few bucks) while I figured out how to make this all work.
(BTW, I ran some numbers for the stress on a 3/8" drive setup. Don't do it.
Breaking something is highly likely.)
I am delighted with this success. Thanks especially to Eric, George, Curly, E.
Meyer, Lex, Tom, Tegger and others who offered their experience on this matter
over the last few months. Also, thanks to Gene Blanchard for his web site (link
above).
Onto the seals and various and sundry maintenance around the cam and
crankshafts.
> Caroline wrote:
> >
> > I'm tempted to buy a second, used crankshaft pulley and then try a
> > modified version of your tool. If I bust the old pulley completely, I'll
> > get the correct pulley holder tool and somehow figure out how to get the
> > torque needed with it. Then chalk this all up to "education."
>
> The pulley holding tool at the etoolcart site looks very much like the one
> that's illustrated in the manual. However, the honda manual also specifies
> that there's a special socket that's to be used with this tool,
> http://tinyurl.com/3bbuk. I didn't see this socket available at the
> etoolcart site. It might be worth your while to call them and inquire about
> the socket. It could be that they intend for you to use your own socket.
> For that to work, you'll need to know the inside diameter of their tool and
> find a socket that will work.
I looked at the drawing at the UK site more closely and see what you mean. I
also read George's and your subsequent posts. If I still needed the retail tool,
I'd likely inquire about the diameter of the socket hole's dimensions.
Onto the better news. :-)
Yesterday I had an idea for modifying Eric's version of the tool so that the
tool's steel bar does not touch the power steering pulley lip. It consists of
Eric's design plus four lock rings and some rubber hose on each bolt. The lock
rings and hose act as spacers and a protector so the bolts don't impose a force
on the power steering pulley's lip. From right to left as one is standing at the
front of the car, looking down, it's: 7/16" (pulley holding tool) bolt head, 4
lock rings, rubber hose over 7/16" bolt, crankshaft pulley, 7/16" nut.
I didn't let the 2 foot steel bar push against the suspension or car's frame.
Instead, I let the non-pulley end push against a pile of four 1/2" plywood
boards on the ground.
With a 5 foot extension pipe over the 1.5 foot long breaker bar, I proceeded
slowly, intermittently checking to see that the bolts weren't pressing against
the lip of the power steering pulley. They did not. After applying I estimate
about half my weight, the pulley bolt broke free easily. I heard that huge, loud
metallic crack that everyone describes. Some dust rose. I checked for damage;
none was evident. I pushed with the 18" breaker bar alone, and sure enough the
bolt was free.
I estimate it took around 300 ft-lbs. of torque to break the bolt free. I did
apply a little PB Blaster penetrating oil to the pulley bolt two days ago. The
last time the bolt was removed was three years ago. It looks in good shape.
JB Weld seems to be holding the chunk that chipped off the other day together
fine. I did find a salvage yard that is pretty sure they have a 91 Civic
crankshaft pulley for $35. I am still thinking of replacing the pulley and still
have some concerns about the harmonic balancer.
Had an amusing word from a dealer yesterday morning. I called Dealer Parts to
see if by chance they had the retail pulley holding tool. They said no and then
added that my troubles might be that the bolt is a left-hand thread. Ha. I said
nothing, in the name of good relations, or because dealers are what they are.
For the archives again: Early 1990s Honda Civic (or all Honda?) crankshaft
pulley bolts are right-hand threaded = right tight and left loose).
Total cost of my 1991 Civic LX 1.5 liter crankshaft pulley holding tool was
under $10 as follows:
One 3/8" thick, 2' flat steel bar (a surveying stake, technically), Lowe's =
$3.27
Two 7/16" diameter, 3" long, Gr. 8 fine thread bolts, True Value Hardware =
$3.50 (or thereabouts)
Two 7/16" diameter, Gr. 8 fine thread nuts, True Value Hardware = $1.50 (or
thereabouts)
Eight 7/16" diameter Gr. 8 lock washers, True Value Hardware = $1.04
Three inches of 1/2 " ID, 3/4" OD 200 PSI Goodyear hose, Lowe's = $0.50 (or
thereabouts)
As Eric has described, drill the 7/16" diameter holes in the steel bar at one
end, 3 inches apart. Snug up the nuts on the bolts as much as possible. There
was still a little play when I started torquing but to no adverse effect, and
the play will help assemble everything.
I strongly recommend using two high quality 1/2 inch diameter, 10-inch long
extension drives and a breaker bar at least 1.5 foot long, supported by a jack,
as shown in part in the 4th photo from the top at site
http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/honda.html . Have strong, long pipe
you can put over the breaker bar to give yourself a longer torque arm without
risking life and limb.
Of course I had to buy various new tools for this project, like a 7/16"
titanium-coated drill bit ($6 at Autozone) and a 17 mm 1/2 inch drive deep
socket ($3.50 at Pep Boys) and the usual minor wastage purchases of bolts, nuts,
tools that don't work (few bucks) while I figured out how to make this all work.
(BTW, I ran some numbers for the stress on a 3/8" drive setup. Don't do it.
Breaking something is highly likely.)
I am delighted with this success. Thanks especially to Eric, George, Curly, E.
Meyer, Lex, Tom, Tegger and others who offered their experience on this matter
over the last few months. Also, thanks to Gene Blanchard for his web site (link
above).
Onto the seals and various and sundry maintenance around the cam and
crankshafts.
06-09-2004 | 02:01 AM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 91 Civic Crankshaft Pulley Bolt Freed
Caroline wrote:
[snip]
>
> Onto the seals and various and sundry maintenance around the cam and
> crankshafts.
Great news, By the way, the seals can be annoying to replace especially when
the factory seal drivers are not at hand. I've found that I can use some
large "machine washers" as seal drivers to tap the seal into the bore. The
washers go between the seal and my punch and protect the seal from being
damaged. The other trick is to cut a piece of plastic from the side of a
pop bottle to make a sleeve about 3" x 4". The sleeve is wrapped around the
seal journal on the crank and then seal is pushed over the sleeve into its
bore. You can remove the sleeve once you get the seal roughly half way into
the bore. Using the sleeve is important since it prevents the inner lip of
the seal from hanging up and getting folded over which can ruin the seal. A
light coat of grease goes on the inner lip of the seal and a thin coat of
ultra gray silicone goes on the outer lip. Good luck.
Eric
[snip]
>
> Onto the seals and various and sundry maintenance around the cam and
> crankshafts.
Great news, By the way, the seals can be annoying to replace especially when
the factory seal drivers are not at hand. I've found that I can use some
large "machine washers" as seal drivers to tap the seal into the bore. The
washers go between the seal and my punch and protect the seal from being
damaged. The other trick is to cut a piece of plastic from the side of a
pop bottle to make a sleeve about 3" x 4". The sleeve is wrapped around the
seal journal on the crank and then seal is pushed over the sleeve into its
bore. You can remove the sleeve once you get the seal roughly half way into
the bore. Using the sleeve is important since it prevents the inner lip of
the seal from hanging up and getting folded over which can ruin the seal. A
light coat of grease goes on the inner lip of the seal and a thin coat of
ultra gray silicone goes on the outer lip. Good luck.
Eric
06-09-2004 | 12:13 PM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 91 Civic Crankshaft Pulley Bolt Freed
"Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote
> Caroline wrote:
> > Onto the seals and various and sundry maintenance around the cam and
> > crankshafts.
>
> Great news, By the way, the seals can be annoying to replace especially when
> the factory seal drivers are not at hand. I've found that I can use some
> large "machine washers" as seal drivers to tap the seal into the bore. The
> washers go between the seal and my punch and protect the seal from being
> damaged. The other trick is to cut a piece of plastic from the side of a
> pop bottle to make a sleeve about 3" x 4". The sleeve is wrapped around the
> seal journal on the crank and then seal is pushed over the sleeve into its
> bore. You can remove the sleeve once you get the seal roughly half way into
> the bore. Using the sleeve is important since it prevents the inner lip of
> the seal from hanging up and getting folded over which can ruin the seal. A
> light coat of grease goes on the inner lip of the seal and a thin coat of
> ultra gray silicone goes on the outer lip. Good luck.
Thanks, Eric. I have been seeing some cautions about this; the tools that are
sold for this; and the plastic pop bottle sleeve (maybe posted before by you)
and washer remedies. All are going into my notes.
Natually I don't have a good picture of the "guts" of the job yet, not having
laid hands on them yet but instead working from a lot of online drawings and
Chilton drawings. For example, with the help of Majestic Honda, I think I just
figured out this morning that the front crank seal is also known as the oil pump
front seal. (The crankshaft and oil pump shaft are actually one in the same? I
know, doh... ) Item 22 at http://tinyurl.com/3cuzs ? That right? (I found the
camshaft seal.)
Pretty sure I will replace the tensioner too, as Googling turns up the
suggestion to do it about every other timing belt change. Other folks do say "if
it ain't broke, don't fix it," but I lean towards conservatism on this item,
overall from my reading. Also, one shop in town I respect says they replace it
every other time.
> Caroline wrote:
> > Onto the seals and various and sundry maintenance around the cam and
> > crankshafts.
>
> Great news, By the way, the seals can be annoying to replace especially when
> the factory seal drivers are not at hand. I've found that I can use some
> large "machine washers" as seal drivers to tap the seal into the bore. The
> washers go between the seal and my punch and protect the seal from being
> damaged. The other trick is to cut a piece of plastic from the side of a
> pop bottle to make a sleeve about 3" x 4". The sleeve is wrapped around the
> seal journal on the crank and then seal is pushed over the sleeve into its
> bore. You can remove the sleeve once you get the seal roughly half way into
> the bore. Using the sleeve is important since it prevents the inner lip of
> the seal from hanging up and getting folded over which can ruin the seal. A
> light coat of grease goes on the inner lip of the seal and a thin coat of
> ultra gray silicone goes on the outer lip. Good luck.
Thanks, Eric. I have been seeing some cautions about this; the tools that are
sold for this; and the plastic pop bottle sleeve (maybe posted before by you)
and washer remedies. All are going into my notes.
Natually I don't have a good picture of the "guts" of the job yet, not having
laid hands on them yet but instead working from a lot of online drawings and
Chilton drawings. For example, with the help of Majestic Honda, I think I just
figured out this morning that the front crank seal is also known as the oil pump
front seal. (The crankshaft and oil pump shaft are actually one in the same? I
know, doh... ) Item 22 at http://tinyurl.com/3cuzs ? That right? (I found the
camshaft seal.)
Pretty sure I will replace the tensioner too, as Googling turns up the
suggestion to do it about every other timing belt change. Other folks do say "if
it ain't broke, don't fix it," but I lean towards conservatism on this item,
overall from my reading. Also, one shop in town I respect says they replace it
every other time.
06-09-2004 | 07:58 PM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Chipped Crankshaft Pulley
On Tue, 08 Jun 2004 01:40:12 -0700, Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote:
>George Macdonald wrote:
>> It's my impression that's just the socket to use with the holding tool
>
>Correct...
>
>> and which gives a little extra depth to get at the bolt head.
>
>Not entirely. The socket fits through the center part of the holding tool
>and functions as a fulcrum allowing the tool to lock the pulley in place.
>In essence, the socket is performing two jobs, i.e., it forms a second pin
>in the tool similar to the outer bolt that I used in the tool that I made
>for my crankshaft pulley (http://tinyurl.com/2x432) and also allows you to
>loosen the pulley bolt. The Honda service manual even states that some
>molybdenum grease should be applied to the socket thereby suggesting that
>the clearance between the holding tool and the socket is important (allowing
>the socket to turn while under the friction from acting as a holding pin).
OK - yes, the Honda tool does appear to have a socket which is a precision
fit in the holding tool which acts as a boss for the socket.
>> I'm sure you can use either just a deep socket or regular
>> socket+extension on a breaker bar - get the impact strength socket and/or
>> extension type if you think it'll be better and flex less under torque.
>> I have the Honda 50mm hex tool and handle and it doesn't require any
>> special socket - it's quite flush with the pulley face.
>
>Correct. However, the two pulley holding tools work in different ways.
>Having the tool flush with the pulley face, although important due to
>clearance limitations, is not relevant since the tool for the early pulleys
>uses pins to lock into the pulley. A deep impact socket may indeed work.
>However, the socket's length and diameter may be important in order for the
>tool to function efficiently.
I haven't seen one of those pulleys in a while so I don't recall how well
it's shaped to accept the end of the SIR special tool - could be nasty if
it slipped out with 300lb/ft applied.:-) It'd be interesting to hear what
SIR has to say on the subject of the external diameter of the socket.
Rgds, George Macdonald
"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??
>George Macdonald wrote:
>> It's my impression that's just the socket to use with the holding tool
>
>Correct...
>
>> and which gives a little extra depth to get at the bolt head.
>
>Not entirely. The socket fits through the center part of the holding tool
>and functions as a fulcrum allowing the tool to lock the pulley in place.
>In essence, the socket is performing two jobs, i.e., it forms a second pin
>in the tool similar to the outer bolt that I used in the tool that I made
>for my crankshaft pulley (http://tinyurl.com/2x432) and also allows you to
>loosen the pulley bolt. The Honda service manual even states that some
>molybdenum grease should be applied to the socket thereby suggesting that
>the clearance between the holding tool and the socket is important (allowing
>the socket to turn while under the friction from acting as a holding pin).
OK - yes, the Honda tool does appear to have a socket which is a precision
fit in the holding tool which acts as a boss for the socket.
>> I'm sure you can use either just a deep socket or regular
>> socket+extension on a breaker bar - get the impact strength socket and/or
>> extension type if you think it'll be better and flex less under torque.
>> I have the Honda 50mm hex tool and handle and it doesn't require any
>> special socket - it's quite flush with the pulley face.
>
>Correct. However, the two pulley holding tools work in different ways.
>Having the tool flush with the pulley face, although important due to
>clearance limitations, is not relevant since the tool for the early pulleys
>uses pins to lock into the pulley. A deep impact socket may indeed work.
>However, the socket's length and diameter may be important in order for the
>tool to function efficiently.
I haven't seen one of those pulleys in a while so I don't recall how well
it's shaped to accept the end of the SIR special tool - could be nasty if
it slipped out with 300lb/ft applied.:-) It'd be interesting to hear what
SIR has to say on the subject of the external diameter of the socket.
Rgds, George Macdonald
"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??
06-10-2004 | 06:11 AM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 91 Civic Crankshaft Pulley Bolt Freed
Caroline wrote:
>
> (The crankshaft and oil pump shaft are actually one in the same? I
> know, doh... ) Item 22 at http://tinyurl.com/3cuzs ? That right? (I found
> the camshaft seal.)
Yes, that's it.
> Pretty sure I will replace the tensioner too, as Googling turns up the
> suggestion to do it about every other timing belt change. Other folks do
> say "if it ain't broke, don't fix it," but I lean towards conservatism on
> this item, overall from my reading. Also, one shop in town I respect says
> they replace it every other time.
Every other time for a tensioner bearing might be ok. Some shops do them
every time erring on the conservative side. Consider that a comeback after
a timing belt job for a noisy tensioner bearing is quite bad for the shop.
The cost of the bearing is small compared to the lost time and unhappy
customer from having to go back in to replace it later. Often times, a
tensioner bearing will not make noise with an old belt but once a new,
properly tensioned belt is installed it can began to sing. Evaluating
tensioner bearings can be tricky. My rules are as follows, if it spins
freely like an old skateboard wheel, i.e., keeps on spinning, or makes the
slightest bit of noise when rocked back and forth while spinning, then it's
time for a new one.
Eric
>
> (The crankshaft and oil pump shaft are actually one in the same? I
> know, doh... ) Item 22 at http://tinyurl.com/3cuzs ? That right? (I found
> the camshaft seal.)
Yes, that's it.
> Pretty sure I will replace the tensioner too, as Googling turns up the
> suggestion to do it about every other timing belt change. Other folks do
> say "if it ain't broke, don't fix it," but I lean towards conservatism on
> this item, overall from my reading. Also, one shop in town I respect says
> they replace it every other time.
Every other time for a tensioner bearing might be ok. Some shops do them
every time erring on the conservative side. Consider that a comeback after
a timing belt job for a noisy tensioner bearing is quite bad for the shop.
The cost of the bearing is small compared to the lost time and unhappy
customer from having to go back in to replace it later. Often times, a
tensioner bearing will not make noise with an old belt but once a new,
properly tensioned belt is installed it can began to sing. Evaluating
tensioner bearings can be tricky. My rules are as follows, if it spins
freely like an old skateboard wheel, i.e., keeps on spinning, or makes the
slightest bit of noise when rocked back and forth while spinning, then it's
time for a new one.
Eric
06-10-2004 | 11:01 AM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 91 Civic Crankshaft Pulley Bolt Freed
"Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote
> Every other time for a [timing belt] tensioner bearing might be ok. Some
shops do them
> every time erring on the conservative side. Consider that a comeback after
> a timing belt job for a noisy tensioner bearing is quite bad for the shop.
> The cost of the bearing is small compared to the lost time and unhappy
> customer from having to go back in to replace it later. Often times, a
> tensioner bearing will not make noise with an old belt but once a new,
> properly tensioned belt is installed it can began to sing. Evaluating
> tensioner bearings can be tricky. My rules are as follows, if it spins
> freely like an old skateboard wheel, i.e., keeps on spinning, or makes the
> slightest bit of noise when rocked back and forth while spinning, then it's
> time for a new one.
This is in my notes. Thanks much. :-)
> Every other time for a [timing belt] tensioner bearing might be ok. Some
shops do them
> every time erring on the conservative side. Consider that a comeback after
> a timing belt job for a noisy tensioner bearing is quite bad for the shop.
> The cost of the bearing is small compared to the lost time and unhappy
> customer from having to go back in to replace it later. Often times, a
> tensioner bearing will not make noise with an old belt but once a new,
> properly tensioned belt is installed it can began to sing. Evaluating
> tensioner bearings can be tricky. My rules are as follows, if it spins
> freely like an old skateboard wheel, i.e., keeps on spinning, or makes the
> slightest bit of noise when rocked back and forth while spinning, then it's
> time for a new one.
This is in my notes. Thanks much. :-)
06-13-2004 | 01:34 AM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 91 Civic Crankshaft Pulley Bolt Freed
This has been a great thread to follow because I'm struggling with the
pulley bolt on my 95 accord right now.
I don't have the option to rig up a holding mechanism as previously
described, there are no holes in the crank pulley. I've tried liquid wrench
and banging away with an impact wrench (rated to 400 ft-lbs, man what are
they feeding those robots in japan!). No good.
BTW, I talked with a service technician at the dealer and they use the
impact wrench for removal all of the time. The holding tool is a last
resort.
I may just try to locate a bigger impact wrench, but it might come down to
getting the holding tool.
So, does anybody know if that tool that's always there on ebay
(http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&item=24819429
97&category=43994&sspagename=WDVW) is a piece of junk, or what?
"Caroline" <caroline10027remove@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:2J_xc.393$Wr.361@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink .net...
> "Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote
> > Every other time for a [timing belt] tensioner bearing might be ok.
Some
> shops do them
> > every time erring on the conservative side. Consider that a comeback
after
> > a timing belt job for a noisy tensioner bearing is quite bad for the
shop.
> > The cost of the bearing is small compared to the lost time and unhappy
> > customer from having to go back in to replace it later. Often times, a
> > tensioner bearing will not make noise with an old belt but once a new,
> > properly tensioned belt is installed it can began to sing. Evaluating
> > tensioner bearings can be tricky. My rules are as follows, if it spins
> > freely like an old skateboard wheel, i.e., keeps on spinning, or makes
the
> > slightest bit of noise when rocked back and forth while spinning, then
it's
> > time for a new one.
>
> This is in my notes. Thanks much. :-)
>
>
pulley bolt on my 95 accord right now.
I don't have the option to rig up a holding mechanism as previously
described, there are no holes in the crank pulley. I've tried liquid wrench
and banging away with an impact wrench (rated to 400 ft-lbs, man what are
they feeding those robots in japan!). No good.
BTW, I talked with a service technician at the dealer and they use the
impact wrench for removal all of the time. The holding tool is a last
resort.
I may just try to locate a bigger impact wrench, but it might come down to
getting the holding tool.
So, does anybody know if that tool that's always there on ebay
(http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&item=24819429
97&category=43994&sspagename=WDVW) is a piece of junk, or what?
"Caroline" <caroline10027remove@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:2J_xc.393$Wr.361@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink .net...
> "Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote
> > Every other time for a [timing belt] tensioner bearing might be ok.
Some
> shops do them
> > every time erring on the conservative side. Consider that a comeback
after
> > a timing belt job for a noisy tensioner bearing is quite bad for the
shop.
> > The cost of the bearing is small compared to the lost time and unhappy
> > customer from having to go back in to replace it later. Often times, a
> > tensioner bearing will not make noise with an old belt but once a new,
> > properly tensioned belt is installed it can began to sing. Evaluating
> > tensioner bearings can be tricky. My rules are as follows, if it spins
> > freely like an old skateboard wheel, i.e., keeps on spinning, or makes
the
> > slightest bit of noise when rocked back and forth while spinning, then
it's
> > time for a new one.
>
> This is in my notes. Thanks much. :-)
>
>
06-13-2004 | 02:37 AM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 91 Civic Crankshaft Pulley Bolt Freed
"pjohnson" <news@thejohnsonabode.com> wrote
> This has been a great thread to follow because I'm struggling with the
> pulley bolt on my 95 accord right now.
>
> I don't have the option to rig up a holding mechanism as previously
> described, there are no holes in the crank pulley. I've tried liquid wrench
> and banging away with an impact wrench (rated to 400 ft-lbs, man what are
> they feeding those robots in japan!). No good.
>
> BTW, I talked with a service technician at the dealer and they use the
> impact wrench for removal all of the time. The holding tool is a last
> resort.
>
> I may just try to locate a bigger impact wrench, but it might come down to
> getting the holding tool.
>
> So, does anybody know if that tool that's always there on ebay
> (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&item=24819429
> 97&category=43994&sspagename=WDVW) is a piece of junk, or what?
What size is your engine? How many cylinders? Wagon or Sedan?
The above Ebay link says the tool is a 55 mm hex.
I am seeing commercially-available tools for 1990s Honda Accords that are 50 mm
and 55 mm.
55 mm:
http://www.bargaintools4u.com/c/Crow...nkcase_Pulley_
Removal_Tool_B0000TMLWQ.htm
50 mm:
http://www.sirtools.com/honda.htm , third photo from top, tool HO 50.
(I think I've seen this 50 mm tool for $25+shipping at other sites. Let me know
if you don't find it for this little. I just google for {Honda harmonic pulley
tool} and a lot of sites come up. Also some clever guy(s) here have made these
tools welding together pipe fittings and scrap iron.)
Ideally you can jack up the right front of your car, take off the wheel, remove
the splashguard, and take a measurement to be sure.
If you decide not to go the impact tool route, I think you'd probably want to
rig up a breaker bar to go into the hex tool and have this breaker bar push
against the ground. Then you'd use a couple of ten-inch high quality, 1/2 inch
extensions and a 1/2 inch deep socket on the 19(?) mm pulley bolt itself, with a
second, long breaker bar (1.5 to 2 feet). You want the extensions so you have
space to do the torquing, well away from the car frame. An ordinary car jack
supports the extensions so the torque you apply is applied as fully as possible
to the pulley bolt.
The photo at http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/sp60100.html seems a little
misleading, as it doesn't show the extensions on the pulley bolt. I can't
believe any person could easily break the bolt free without a huge extension on
the breaker bar.
I'm sure you'll get a lot of other responses.
> This has been a great thread to follow because I'm struggling with the
> pulley bolt on my 95 accord right now.
>
> I don't have the option to rig up a holding mechanism as previously
> described, there are no holes in the crank pulley. I've tried liquid wrench
> and banging away with an impact wrench (rated to 400 ft-lbs, man what are
> they feeding those robots in japan!). No good.
>
> BTW, I talked with a service technician at the dealer and they use the
> impact wrench for removal all of the time. The holding tool is a last
> resort.
>
> I may just try to locate a bigger impact wrench, but it might come down to
> getting the holding tool.
>
> So, does anybody know if that tool that's always there on ebay
> (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&item=24819429
> 97&category=43994&sspagename=WDVW) is a piece of junk, or what?
What size is your engine? How many cylinders? Wagon or Sedan?
The above Ebay link says the tool is a 55 mm hex.
I am seeing commercially-available tools for 1990s Honda Accords that are 50 mm
and 55 mm.
55 mm:
http://www.bargaintools4u.com/c/Crow...nkcase_Pulley_
Removal_Tool_B0000TMLWQ.htm
50 mm:
http://www.sirtools.com/honda.htm , third photo from top, tool HO 50.
(I think I've seen this 50 mm tool for $25+shipping at other sites. Let me know
if you don't find it for this little. I just google for {Honda harmonic pulley
tool} and a lot of sites come up. Also some clever guy(s) here have made these
tools welding together pipe fittings and scrap iron.)
Ideally you can jack up the right front of your car, take off the wheel, remove
the splashguard, and take a measurement to be sure.
If you decide not to go the impact tool route, I think you'd probably want to
rig up a breaker bar to go into the hex tool and have this breaker bar push
against the ground. Then you'd use a couple of ten-inch high quality, 1/2 inch
extensions and a 1/2 inch deep socket on the 19(?) mm pulley bolt itself, with a
second, long breaker bar (1.5 to 2 feet). You want the extensions so you have
space to do the torquing, well away from the car frame. An ordinary car jack
supports the extensions so the torque you apply is applied as fully as possible
to the pulley bolt.
The photo at http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/sp60100.html seems a little
misleading, as it doesn't show the extensions on the pulley bolt. I can't
believe any person could easily break the bolt free without a huge extension on
the breaker bar.
I'm sure you'll get a lot of other responses.
06-13-2004 | 11:54 AM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 91 Civic Crankshaft Pulley Bolt Freed
"Caroline" <caroline10027remove@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:tCSyc.7873$Y3.1717@newsread2.news.atl.earthli nk.net...
> "pjohnson" <news@thejohnsonabode.com> wrote
> > This has been a great thread to follow because I'm struggling with the
> > pulley bolt on my 95 accord right now.
> >
> > I don't have the option to rig up a holding mechanism as previously
> > described, there are no holes in the crank pulley. I've tried liquid
wrench
> > and banging away with an impact wrench (rated to 400 ft-lbs, man what
are
> > they feeding those robots in japan!). No good.
> >
> > BTW, I talked with a service technician at the dealer and they use the
> > impact wrench for removal all of the time. The holding tool is a last
> > resort.
> >
> > I may just try to locate a bigger impact wrench, but it might come down
to
> > getting the holding tool.
> >
> > So, does anybody know if that tool that's always there on ebay
> >
(http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&item=24819429
> > 97&category=43994&sspagename=WDVW) is a piece of junk, or what?
>
> What size is your engine? How many cylinders? Wagon or Sedan?
>
2.2, 4, Wagon
> The above Ebay link says the tool is a 55 mm hex.
>
> I am seeing commercially-available tools for 1990s Honda Accords that are
50 mm
> and 55 mm.
>
> 55 mm:
>
http://www.bargaintools4u.com/c/Crow...nkcase_Pulley_
> Removal_Tool_B0000TMLWQ.htm
This is the same as the one on ebay, but 5 bucks more and minus the
extension. Looks like I would need another breaker bar for the tool shown at
bargaintools4u.
>
> Ideally you can jack up the right front of your car, take off the wheel,
remove
> the splashguard, and take a measurement to be sure.
>
55 mm is definetely the right tool. I have the shop manual for my car.
> If you decide not to go the impact tool route, ...
I was reading another thread in this group and noted that somebody already
came up with my latest idea. Find a mecahnic with a big impact wrench to
break it loose and slip him a tenner!
>
> The photo at http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/sp60100.html seems a little
> misleading, as it doesn't show the extensions on the pulley bolt. I can't
> believe any person could easily break the bolt free without a huge
extension on
> the breaker bar.
>
Yeah right.. just slip the old 1/2" drive rachet in there crack it loose. No
problem
.> I'm sure you'll get a lot of other responses.
>
So you think that tool on ebay is a joke?
06-13-2004 | 01:15 PM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 91 Civic Crankshaft Pulley Bolt Freed
"pjohnson" <news@thejohnsonabode.com> wrote
> "Caroline" <caroline10027remove@earthlink.net> wrote
pjohnson
> > > So, does anybody know if that tool that's always there on ebay
> (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&item=24819429
> > > 97&category=43994&sspagename=WDVW) is a piece of junk, or what?
> >
> > What size is your engine? How many cylinders? Wagon or Sedan?
> >
> 2.2, 4, Wagon
>
> > The above Ebay link says the tool is a 55 mm hex.
> >
> > I am seeing commercially-available tools for 1990s Honda Accords that are
> 50 mm
> > and 55 mm.
> >
> > 55 mm:
> >
>
http://www.bargaintools4u.com/c/Crow...nkcase_Pulley_
> > Removal_Tool_B0000TMLWQ.htm
>
> This is the same as the one on ebay, but 5 bucks more and minus the
> extension.
I agree.
Also, dunno if you checked, but it appears both the Ebay sellers and
bargaintools want $10 for shipping.
> Looks like I would need another breaker bar for the tool shown at
> bargaintools4u.
I agree about the breaker bar.
From the Ebay photo, I estimate the Ebay wrench is about a foot long. For my 91
Civic LX, I had the left front supported by the lowest setting of a jackstand.
My home-made crankshaft pulley holding tool was 2 feet long and attached not at
the center. I still ended up stacking four or so 1/2 inch plywood pieces on the
ground for the tool's end to rest on, to get the optimal resisting torque. I am
also keeping in mind that I would rather keep everything at TDC when I go to
actually remove the timing belt. Maybe that's not a big deal but I don't want to
have to rotate the pulley away from TDC to get the bolt freed.
I don't know if you could find and slide a pipe over one end of the Ebay wrench
to extend it a bit, if need be, so it pushes against the ground.
I think you might have more maneuverability with a breaker bar set up.
> > Ideally you can jack up the [oops, LEFT] front of your car, take off the
wheel,
> remove
> > the splashguard, and take a measurement to be sure.
> >
>
> 55 mm is definetely the right tool. I have the shop manual for my car.
>
>
> > If you decide not to go the impact tool route, ...
>
> I was reading another thread in this group and noted that somebody already
> came up with my latest idea. Find a mecahnic with a big impact wrench to
> break it loose and slip him a tenner!
Worth a try. :-)
> > The photo at http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/sp60100.html seems a little
> > misleading, as it doesn't show the extensions on the pulley bolt. I can't
> > believe any person could easily break the bolt free without a huge
> extension on
> > the breaker bar.
> >
>
> Yeah right.. just slip the old 1/2" drive rachet in there crack it loose. No
> problem.
>
> > I'm sure you'll get a lot of other responses.
> >
>
> So you think that tool on ebay is a joke?
I don't know.
For one, I'd email the Ebay seller and ask if he made this tool himself or what,
because you don't see anything like it available commercially. (At least, I
didn't see any wrench like this available commercially.)
A few other things: The seller doesn't seem to give the item's location, listing
only "Cobra Heaven, U.S." That's not usual. People want to know from where an
item is being shipped. Then too he has a couple of negative reviews (but among
96% positive reviews). If you haven't already, maybe you should read his
rebuttals to these negative reviews... Then there's the Ebay tool's shape and
dimensions. Overall, I'd be a little less enthused about rolling the dice on
this item than I would a lot of others. But that's just me. (I've bought from
E-bay maybe three times in the past year or so.)
I suppose you know you can also keep checking Ebay for the tool. Pickings are a
little slim right now, but I've seen a few of the 50 or 55 mm tools come up in
the last few weeks. (Never saw my 91 Honda Civic's pulley tool, though.) I
thought they tended to run around $15 to $35.
I see the 95 Accords have at least two different pulley sizes (one for the four
cylinder and another for the V-6). I thought maybe the V-6 pulley got the larger
hex size. But yours is the smaller engine, and you say your manual lists the 55
mm hex size. George M. said he's only seen the 50 mm hex size in the service
manual.
Maybe they're one in the same, with the 55 mm hex size being an outside hex
measurement.
I'm baffled on this point.
> "Caroline" <caroline10027remove@earthlink.net> wrote
pjohnson
> > > So, does anybody know if that tool that's always there on ebay
> (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&item=24819429
> > > 97&category=43994&sspagename=WDVW) is a piece of junk, or what?
> >
> > What size is your engine? How many cylinders? Wagon or Sedan?
> >
> 2.2, 4, Wagon
>
> > The above Ebay link says the tool is a 55 mm hex.
> >
> > I am seeing commercially-available tools for 1990s Honda Accords that are
> 50 mm
> > and 55 mm.
> >
> > 55 mm:
> >
>
http://www.bargaintools4u.com/c/Crow...nkcase_Pulley_
> > Removal_Tool_B0000TMLWQ.htm
>
> This is the same as the one on ebay, but 5 bucks more and minus the
> extension.
I agree.
Also, dunno if you checked, but it appears both the Ebay sellers and
bargaintools want $10 for shipping.
> Looks like I would need another breaker bar for the tool shown at
> bargaintools4u.
I agree about the breaker bar.
From the Ebay photo, I estimate the Ebay wrench is about a foot long. For my 91
Civic LX, I had the left front supported by the lowest setting of a jackstand.
My home-made crankshaft pulley holding tool was 2 feet long and attached not at
the center. I still ended up stacking four or so 1/2 inch plywood pieces on the
ground for the tool's end to rest on, to get the optimal resisting torque. I am
also keeping in mind that I would rather keep everything at TDC when I go to
actually remove the timing belt. Maybe that's not a big deal but I don't want to
have to rotate the pulley away from TDC to get the bolt freed.
I don't know if you could find and slide a pipe over one end of the Ebay wrench
to extend it a bit, if need be, so it pushes against the ground.
I think you might have more maneuverability with a breaker bar set up.
> > Ideally you can jack up the [oops, LEFT] front of your car, take off the
wheel,
> remove
> > the splashguard, and take a measurement to be sure.
> >
>
> 55 mm is definetely the right tool. I have the shop manual for my car.
>
>
> > If you decide not to go the impact tool route, ...
>
> I was reading another thread in this group and noted that somebody already
> came up with my latest idea. Find a mecahnic with a big impact wrench to
> break it loose and slip him a tenner!
Worth a try. :-)
> > The photo at http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/sp60100.html seems a little
> > misleading, as it doesn't show the extensions on the pulley bolt. I can't
> > believe any person could easily break the bolt free without a huge
> extension on
> > the breaker bar.
> >
>
> Yeah right.. just slip the old 1/2" drive rachet in there crack it loose. No
> problem
.>
> > I'm sure you'll get a lot of other responses.
> >
>
> So you think that tool on ebay is a joke?
I don't know.
For one, I'd email the Ebay seller and ask if he made this tool himself or what,
because you don't see anything like it available commercially. (At least, I
didn't see any wrench like this available commercially.)
A few other things: The seller doesn't seem to give the item's location, listing
only "Cobra Heaven, U.S." That's not usual. People want to know from where an
item is being shipped. Then too he has a couple of negative reviews (but among
96% positive reviews). If you haven't already, maybe you should read his
rebuttals to these negative reviews... Then there's the Ebay tool's shape and
dimensions. Overall, I'd be a little less enthused about rolling the dice on
this item than I would a lot of others. But that's just me. (I've bought from
E-bay maybe three times in the past year or so.)
I suppose you know you can also keep checking Ebay for the tool. Pickings are a
little slim right now, but I've seen a few of the 50 or 55 mm tools come up in
the last few weeks. (Never saw my 91 Honda Civic's pulley tool, though.) I
thought they tended to run around $15 to $35.
I see the 95 Accords have at least two different pulley sizes (one for the four
cylinder and another for the V-6). I thought maybe the V-6 pulley got the larger
hex size. But yours is the smaller engine, and you say your manual lists the 55
mm hex size. George M. said he's only seen the 50 mm hex size in the service
manual.
Maybe they're one in the same, with the 55 mm hex size being an outside hex
measurement.
I'm baffled on this point.