I've seen discussions on how to jumper the little service two pin thing
behind the passenger kick panel, but I'm having trouble finding it.

I think I found it above the ECU box: Two wires going to a plug that's stuck
into this green soft plastic box. Is that it?
How do you get it out?

 

Our 95 Integra has that connector contained in a green enclosure so it might
be similar on your car.
I just pried mine out while pressing the connector lock -- the box on mine
was just a way to hold the connector in place.

Hope this is useful to you.
Remco

"Frank van Hoof" <thehoofies@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:fY6od.4553$Ro.208789@news20.bellglobal.com...
> I've seen discussions on how to jumper the little service two pin thing
> behind the passenger kick panel, but I'm having trouble finding it.
>
> I think I found it above the ECU box: Two wires going to a plug that's
stuck
> into this green soft plastic box. Is that it?
> How do you get it out?
>
>

 

Our 95 Integra has that connector contained in a green enclosure so it might
be similar on your car.
I just pried mine out while pressing the connector lock -- the box on mine
was just a way to hold the connector in place.

Hope this is useful to you.
Remco

"Frank van Hoof" <thehoofies@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:fY6od.4553$Ro.208789@news20.bellglobal.com...
> I've seen discussions on how to jumper the little service two pin thing
> behind the passenger kick panel, but I'm having trouble finding it.
>
> I think I found it above the ECU box: Two wires going to a plug that's
stuck
> into this green soft plastic box. Is that it?
> How do you get it out?
>
>

 

In the '98 you have OBD II. Instead of a two pin connector you will have a
larger 2-row connector under the dash beside the steering column. That needs
to be used with an OBD II code reader - don't try to jumper it!

Many auto parts chains are offering to read the codes for free, in hopes of
making a sale I presume. The reader also can be used to erase the codes,
which will reset the "check engine" light - at least temporarily. Dealers
will cheerfully read the codes, usually for the larger part of a hundred
dollar bill. You can also buy a scanner of your own for about $150. (Yeah -
I know.)

First make sure the gas cap is tight. If it is loose, all post-96 and some
94-96 cars will turn on the light. Once the cap is tightened, it will take
at least three engine warm-up cycles to reset itself.

Finally, there are no failures that set the "check engine" light that will
harm your engine in city driving if it seems to be running okay otherwise.
It is possible the mixture could go so rich (like a bad fuel pressure
regulator) that you could melt the catalyst in your converter if driven at
high speeds or up long steep hills, but in those cases your fuel economy
will be *very* bad - suddenly about half what you are used to. The light
should have been called "emissions problem" but nobody asked my advice.

Mike

"Frank van Hoof" <thehoofies@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:fY6od.4553$Ro.208789@news20.bellglobal.com...
> I've seen discussions on how to jumper the little service two pin thing
> behind the passenger kick panel, but I'm having trouble finding it.
>
> I think I found it above the ECU box: Two wires going to a plug that's
> stuck
> into this green soft plastic box. Is that it?
> How do you get it out?
>
>

 

In the '98 you have OBD II. Instead of a two pin connector you will have a
larger 2-row connector under the dash beside the steering column. That needs
to be used with an OBD II code reader - don't try to jumper it!

Many auto parts chains are offering to read the codes for free, in hopes of
making a sale I presume. The reader also can be used to erase the codes,
which will reset the "check engine" light - at least temporarily. Dealers
will cheerfully read the codes, usually for the larger part of a hundred
dollar bill. You can also buy a scanner of your own for about $150. (Yeah -
I know.)

First make sure the gas cap is tight. If it is loose, all post-96 and some
94-96 cars will turn on the light. Once the cap is tightened, it will take
at least three engine warm-up cycles to reset itself.

Finally, there are no failures that set the "check engine" light that will
harm your engine in city driving if it seems to be running okay otherwise.
It is possible the mixture could go so rich (like a bad fuel pressure
regulator) that you could melt the catalyst in your converter if driven at
high speeds or up long steep hills, but in those cases your fuel economy
will be *very* bad - suddenly about half what you are used to. The light
should have been called "emissions problem" but nobody asked my advice.

Mike

"Frank van Hoof" <thehoofies@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:fY6od.4553$Ro.208789@news20.bellglobal.com...
> I've seen discussions on how to jumper the little service two pin thing
> behind the passenger kick panel, but I'm having trouble finding it.
>
> I think I found it above the ECU box: Two wires going to a plug that's
> stuck
> into this green soft plastic box. Is that it?
> How do you get it out?
>
>