comcastss news groups wrote:
> You may have a point there!
> I'm also concerned about the master cylinder traveling to an area that
> doesn't usually get used and getting scored then leaking. I think I ran into
> this problem once?...

popular misconception - perhaps from the days of cast iron cylinders and
crappy detroit seals. honda [nissin] use alloy cylinders and very high
quality seals. they last a very long time and are not generally subject
to that kind of problem.

i just rebuilt my master cylinder and posted pics of the reason for the
leak on 11/18 - the car's 17 years old and i doubt the brake fluid had
ever been changed before i bought the car 2.5 years ago. the inside of
the cylinder was perfectly clean and completely un-scored. cylinders
/do/ leak, and this generally coincides with flushing the fluid in the
system, but it's more commonly due to slight changes in the seal when
suddenly subject to fresh fluid chemistry - it shrinks slightly.

bleed the system per the book - pedal to the floor. it is essential
that the cylinder withstand this action - which might be required in
emergency braking. if for some reason it /does/ fail after using full
cylinder travel, the cylinder needs to be replaced or reconditioned, and
it's best you figure that out now rather than "test" it in the wrong
circumstances.

>
>>> (I think I know the answer I just never have good luck bleeding brakes.
>>> open valve, pump brake, close valve, repeat, repeat, repeat...........)
>> That might be your problem. The sequence is to hold the brake pedal down,
>> then open the bleeder valve. When you open the valve, the brake pedal
>> should go all the way down. Close the valve and then have your assistant
>> reapply pressure to the brake pedal. Repeat the process until you have
>> clean fluid coming out of all 4 cylinders. Check your manual for the
> proper
>> sequence to bleed each of the wheel cylinders. Note that I like to use a
>> section of clear Tygon style tubing to attach to the bleeder valves to
>> direct the fluid into a waste container. Using clear tubing also
>> facilitates knowing when the fluid is coming out clean and all the air is
>> gone. You should also use a closed ended wrench on the bleeder valves.
>> Using an open ended wrench may strip the bleeder valves as they can get
>> stuck over the years and become difficult to loosen.
>>
>> Eric
>
>

 

comcastss news groups wrote:
> You may have a point there!
> I'm also concerned about the master cylinder traveling to an area that
> doesn't usually get used and getting scored then leaking. I think I ran into
> this problem once?...

popular misconception - perhaps from the days of cast iron cylinders and
crappy detroit seals. honda [nissin] use alloy cylinders and very high
quality seals. they last a very long time and are not generally subject
to that kind of problem.

i just rebuilt my master cylinder and posted pics of the reason for the
leak on 11/18 - the car's 17 years old and i doubt the brake fluid had
ever been changed before i bought the car 2.5 years ago. the inside of
the cylinder was perfectly clean and completely un-scored. cylinders
/do/ leak, and this generally coincides with flushing the fluid in the
system, but it's more commonly due to slight changes in the seal when
suddenly subject to fresh fluid chemistry - it shrinks slightly.

bleed the system per the book - pedal to the floor. it is essential
that the cylinder withstand this action - which might be required in
emergency braking. if for some reason it /does/ fail after using full
cylinder travel, the cylinder needs to be replaced or reconditioned, and
it's best you figure that out now rather than "test" it in the wrong
circumstances.

>
>>> (I think I know the answer I just never have good luck bleeding brakes.
>>> open valve, pump brake, close valve, repeat, repeat, repeat...........)
>> That might be your problem. The sequence is to hold the brake pedal down,
>> then open the bleeder valve. When you open the valve, the brake pedal
>> should go all the way down. Close the valve and then have your assistant
>> reapply pressure to the brake pedal. Repeat the process until you have
>> clean fluid coming out of all 4 cylinders. Check your manual for the
> proper
>> sequence to bleed each of the wheel cylinders. Note that I like to use a
>> section of clear Tygon style tubing to attach to the bleeder valves to
>> direct the fluid into a waste container. Using clear tubing also
>> facilitates knowing when the fluid is coming out clean and all the air is
>> gone. You should also use a closed ended wrench on the bleeder valves.
>> Using an open ended wrench may strip the bleeder valves as they can get
>> stuck over the years and become difficult to loosen.
>>
>> Eric
>
>