To both Jims: Igniter discussion
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Re: To both Jims: Igniter discussion
John Smith wrote:
> Thanks, Jim. That's a lot to think over. And, yes - there are no trouble
> light codes associated with this problem.
>
> My book doesn't cover the iacv,
helminc.com. the honda factory service manual covers /everything/.
> so I'll google around and see what I can
> find. Any hints where to find that mesh filter?
it's pressed into to one end of the valve body. it cleans up just great
with carb cleaner and a q-tip.
> Thanks again, I will let
> you know what happens.
>
> "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
> news:Vo-dnY-z1cbIt-nbnZ2dnUVZ_vumnZ2d@speakeasy.net...
>> here's what i'd do.
>>
>> 1. check the iacv, idle air control valve. they have a wire mesh filter
>> in them, and they tend to get caked with soot and grime. clean that
>> screen and it'll make it easier for the valve to kick in sufficient air
>> for the motor to idle properly. reset hot idle speed per the book [or
>> google this group]. also, make sure there's no gotchas like timing being
>> out, etc.
>>
>> 2. check the valve lash. unlike a lot of other vehicles, the gap on
>> hondas closes, not opens, so valves stay open longer, and this interferes
>> with idle behavior. if they close too much, a valve can burn, and this
>> /definitely/ affects idle behavior! you'll need to replace gaskets when
>> doing this.
>>
>> 3. once you've eliminated those, and checked the throttle body, vacuum
>> hoses, throttle linkages, etc, go back to the ignition system.
>>
>> for ignition, only use honda parts for the distributor cap, rotor and
>> coil. plugs and leads we discussed before. [you used ngk or denso plugs,
>> right?] make sure there's no fingerprints from sweaty fingers on anything
>> electrical, and that there's no cracking or tracking marks inside the cap
>> or on the rotor. i've had a brand new rotor cap be defective before, so
>> while unlikely, bear that in mind.
>>
>> let us know how that turned out. also, there's no codes in the computer,
>> correct? if there are any, report back.
>
>
> Thanks, Jim. That's a lot to think over. And, yes - there are no trouble
> light codes associated with this problem.
>
> My book doesn't cover the iacv,
helminc.com. the honda factory service manual covers /everything/.
> so I'll google around and see what I can
> find. Any hints where to find that mesh filter?
it's pressed into to one end of the valve body. it cleans up just great
with carb cleaner and a q-tip.
> Thanks again, I will let
> you know what happens.
>
> "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
> news:Vo-dnY-z1cbIt-nbnZ2dnUVZ_vumnZ2d@speakeasy.net...
>> here's what i'd do.
>>
>> 1. check the iacv, idle air control valve. they have a wire mesh filter
>> in them, and they tend to get caked with soot and grime. clean that
>> screen and it'll make it easier for the valve to kick in sufficient air
>> for the motor to idle properly. reset hot idle speed per the book [or
>> google this group]. also, make sure there's no gotchas like timing being
>> out, etc.
>>
>> 2. check the valve lash. unlike a lot of other vehicles, the gap on
>> hondas closes, not opens, so valves stay open longer, and this interferes
>> with idle behavior. if they close too much, a valve can burn, and this
>> /definitely/ affects idle behavior! you'll need to replace gaskets when
>> doing this.
>>
>> 3. once you've eliminated those, and checked the throttle body, vacuum
>> hoses, throttle linkages, etc, go back to the ignition system.
>>
>> for ignition, only use honda parts for the distributor cap, rotor and
>> coil. plugs and leads we discussed before. [you used ngk or denso plugs,
>> right?] make sure there's no fingerprints from sweaty fingers on anything
>> electrical, and that there's no cracking or tracking marks inside the cap
>> or on the rotor. i've had a brand new rotor cap be defective before, so
>> while unlikely, bear that in mind.
>>
>> let us know how that turned out. also, there's no codes in the computer,
>> correct? if there are any, report back.
>
>
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