black thingy on distributor?
11-25-2004 | 04:30 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: black thingy on distributor?
Burt Squareman wrote:
> "Caleb" wrote
>
>>Randolph wrote:
>>
>>>Caleb wrote:
>
>
>> Its an '85 integra 1600 dohc pgm-fi (ZC) 5 spd.
>>the part where the hose is supposed to go on the plastic thingy
>>has been broken/melted or something so ill need a new plastic thingy.
>
>
> Vacuum Advance Diaphragm; design for power and economy. I've
> seen so many of them break off which raises the idle, retards ign,
> leans, then pings. DO NOT unplug the vac-hose here. They're used on
> Honda/Acura FI or carb from years 85 onto 89. 82 has one but not the
> same name but uses one vac-line.
>
>
>
Ive done some checks, it is a vacuum advance thingy, i got a new
replacement and put it on, now the idle is even higher! but while i was
installing it i notices there was some oil inside the distributor. is
this very bad? Ive checked the cylinder head and all the springs/tappets
are fine. Im going to clean the distributor today and see how that goes.
the oil was not in the part with the spinny plastic thing with the metal
connetcor it was underneath the plastic cover.
> "Caleb" wrote
>
>>Randolph wrote:
>>
>>>Caleb wrote:
>
>
>> Its an '85 integra 1600 dohc pgm-fi (ZC) 5 spd.
>>the part where the hose is supposed to go on the plastic thingy
>>has been broken/melted or something so ill need a new plastic thingy.
>
>
> Vacuum Advance Diaphragm; design for power and economy. I've
> seen so many of them break off which raises the idle, retards ign,
> leans, then pings. DO NOT unplug the vac-hose here. They're used on
> Honda/Acura FI or carb from years 85 onto 89. 82 has one but not the
> same name but uses one vac-line.
>
>
>
Ive done some checks, it is a vacuum advance thingy, i got a new
replacement and put it on, now the idle is even higher! but while i was
installing it i notices there was some oil inside the distributor. is
this very bad? Ive checked the cylinder head and all the springs/tappets
are fine. Im going to clean the distributor today and see how that goes.
the oil was not in the part with the spinny plastic thing with the metal
connetcor it was underneath the plastic cover.
11-25-2004 | 04:30 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: black thingy on distributor?
Burt Squareman wrote:
> "Caleb" wrote
>
>>Randolph wrote:
>>
>>>Caleb wrote:
>
>
>> Its an '85 integra 1600 dohc pgm-fi (ZC) 5 spd.
>>the part where the hose is supposed to go on the plastic thingy
>>has been broken/melted or something so ill need a new plastic thingy.
>
>
> Vacuum Advance Diaphragm; design for power and economy. I've
> seen so many of them break off which raises the idle, retards ign,
> leans, then pings. DO NOT unplug the vac-hose here. They're used on
> Honda/Acura FI or carb from years 85 onto 89. 82 has one but not the
> same name but uses one vac-line.
>
>
>
Ive done some checks, it is a vacuum advance thingy, i got a new
replacement and put it on, now the idle is even higher! but while i was
installing it i notices there was some oil inside the distributor. is
this very bad? Ive checked the cylinder head and all the springs/tappets
are fine. Im going to clean the distributor today and see how that goes.
the oil was not in the part with the spinny plastic thing with the metal
connetcor it was underneath the plastic cover.
> "Caleb" wrote
>
>>Randolph wrote:
>>
>>>Caleb wrote:
>
>
>> Its an '85 integra 1600 dohc pgm-fi (ZC) 5 spd.
>>the part where the hose is supposed to go on the plastic thingy
>>has been broken/melted or something so ill need a new plastic thingy.
>
>
> Vacuum Advance Diaphragm; design for power and economy. I've
> seen so many of them break off which raises the idle, retards ign,
> leans, then pings. DO NOT unplug the vac-hose here. They're used on
> Honda/Acura FI or carb from years 85 onto 89. 82 has one but not the
> same name but uses one vac-line.
>
>
>
Ive done some checks, it is a vacuum advance thingy, i got a new
replacement and put it on, now the idle is even higher! but while i was
installing it i notices there was some oil inside the distributor. is
this very bad? Ive checked the cylinder head and all the springs/tappets
are fine. Im going to clean the distributor today and see how that goes.
the oil was not in the part with the spinny plastic thing with the metal
connetcor it was underneath the plastic cover.
11-25-2004 | 07:41 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: black thingy on distributor?
> Burt Squareman wrote:
> > "Caleb" wrote
> > Vacuum Advance Diaphragm; design for power and economy. I've
> > seen so many of them break off which raises the idle, retards ign,
> > leans, then pings.
> Ive done some checks, it is a vacuum advance thingy, i got a new
> replacement and put it on, now the idle is even higher! but while i was
> installing it i notices there was some oil inside the distributor. is
> this very bad? Ive checked the cylinder head and all the springs/tappets
> are fine. Im going to clean the distributor today and see how that goes.
> the oil was not in the part with the spinny plastic thing with the metal
> connetcor it was underneath the plastic cover.
The oil in the distributor may account for the jumpy tach.
The VAD rips open then vacuum sucks oil in from head to
sensors. The reluctor picks up false signals and spikes the
tach. Make sure shaft isn't wobby or sensor connection isn't
saturated with oil.
The idle drops when the hose broke off (and probably a rip
diaphram inside the VAD) the ignition retards then someone
raise the idle mixture to compensate. After the replacement
the timng advances and the idle goes higher. Get a timing gun,
reset the timing, reset ECU (unplug batt,) check for vac leaks
then reset idle. If idle mixuter yellow ink mark isn't tampered
then leave it alone.
> > "Caleb" wrote
> > Vacuum Advance Diaphragm; design for power and economy. I've
> > seen so many of them break off which raises the idle, retards ign,
> > leans, then pings.
> Ive done some checks, it is a vacuum advance thingy, i got a new
> replacement and put it on, now the idle is even higher! but while i was
> installing it i notices there was some oil inside the distributor. is
> this very bad? Ive checked the cylinder head and all the springs/tappets
> are fine. Im going to clean the distributor today and see how that goes.
> the oil was not in the part with the spinny plastic thing with the metal
> connetcor it was underneath the plastic cover.
The oil in the distributor may account for the jumpy tach.
The VAD rips open then vacuum sucks oil in from head to
sensors. The reluctor picks up false signals and spikes the
tach. Make sure shaft isn't wobby or sensor connection isn't
saturated with oil.
The idle drops when the hose broke off (and probably a rip
diaphram inside the VAD) the ignition retards then someone
raise the idle mixture to compensate. After the replacement
the timng advances and the idle goes higher. Get a timing gun,
reset the timing, reset ECU (unplug batt,) check for vac leaks
then reset idle. If idle mixuter yellow ink mark isn't tampered
then leave it alone.
11-25-2004 | 07:41 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: black thingy on distributor?
> Burt Squareman wrote:
> > "Caleb" wrote
> > Vacuum Advance Diaphragm; design for power and economy. I've
> > seen so many of them break off which raises the idle, retards ign,
> > leans, then pings.
> Ive done some checks, it is a vacuum advance thingy, i got a new
> replacement and put it on, now the idle is even higher! but while i was
> installing it i notices there was some oil inside the distributor. is
> this very bad? Ive checked the cylinder head and all the springs/tappets
> are fine. Im going to clean the distributor today and see how that goes.
> the oil was not in the part with the spinny plastic thing with the metal
> connetcor it was underneath the plastic cover.
The oil in the distributor may account for the jumpy tach.
The VAD rips open then vacuum sucks oil in from head to
sensors. The reluctor picks up false signals and spikes the
tach. Make sure shaft isn't wobby or sensor connection isn't
saturated with oil.
The idle drops when the hose broke off (and probably a rip
diaphram inside the VAD) the ignition retards then someone
raise the idle mixture to compensate. After the replacement
the timng advances and the idle goes higher. Get a timing gun,
reset the timing, reset ECU (unplug batt,) check for vac leaks
then reset idle. If idle mixuter yellow ink mark isn't tampered
then leave it alone.
> > "Caleb" wrote
> > Vacuum Advance Diaphragm; design for power and economy. I've
> > seen so many of them break off which raises the idle, retards ign,
> > leans, then pings.
> Ive done some checks, it is a vacuum advance thingy, i got a new
> replacement and put it on, now the idle is even higher! but while i was
> installing it i notices there was some oil inside the distributor. is
> this very bad? Ive checked the cylinder head and all the springs/tappets
> are fine. Im going to clean the distributor today and see how that goes.
> the oil was not in the part with the spinny plastic thing with the metal
> connetcor it was underneath the plastic cover.
The oil in the distributor may account for the jumpy tach.
The VAD rips open then vacuum sucks oil in from head to
sensors. The reluctor picks up false signals and spikes the
tach. Make sure shaft isn't wobby or sensor connection isn't
saturated with oil.
The idle drops when the hose broke off (and probably a rip
diaphram inside the VAD) the ignition retards then someone
raise the idle mixture to compensate. After the replacement
the timng advances and the idle goes higher. Get a timing gun,
reset the timing, reset ECU (unplug batt,) check for vac leaks
then reset idle. If idle mixuter yellow ink mark isn't tampered
then leave it alone.
11-25-2004 | 07:41 PM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: black thingy on distributor?
> Burt Squareman wrote:
> > "Caleb" wrote
> > Vacuum Advance Diaphragm; design for power and economy. I've
> > seen so many of them break off which raises the idle, retards ign,
> > leans, then pings.
> Ive done some checks, it is a vacuum advance thingy, i got a new
> replacement and put it on, now the idle is even higher! but while i was
> installing it i notices there was some oil inside the distributor. is
> this very bad? Ive checked the cylinder head and all the springs/tappets
> are fine. Im going to clean the distributor today and see how that goes.
> the oil was not in the part with the spinny plastic thing with the metal
> connetcor it was underneath the plastic cover.
The oil in the distributor may account for the jumpy tach.
The VAD rips open then vacuum sucks oil in from head to
sensors. The reluctor picks up false signals and spikes the
tach. Make sure shaft isn't wobby or sensor connection isn't
saturated with oil.
The idle drops when the hose broke off (and probably a rip
diaphram inside the VAD) the ignition retards then someone
raise the idle mixture to compensate. After the replacement
the timng advances and the idle goes higher. Get a timing gun,
reset the timing, reset ECU (unplug batt,) check for vac leaks
then reset idle. If idle mixuter yellow ink mark isn't tampered
then leave it alone.
> > "Caleb" wrote
> > Vacuum Advance Diaphragm; design for power and economy. I've
> > seen so many of them break off which raises the idle, retards ign,
> > leans, then pings.
> Ive done some checks, it is a vacuum advance thingy, i got a new
> replacement and put it on, now the idle is even higher! but while i was
> installing it i notices there was some oil inside the distributor. is
> this very bad? Ive checked the cylinder head and all the springs/tappets
> are fine. Im going to clean the distributor today and see how that goes.
> the oil was not in the part with the spinny plastic thing with the metal
> connetcor it was underneath the plastic cover.
The oil in the distributor may account for the jumpy tach.
The VAD rips open then vacuum sucks oil in from head to
sensors. The reluctor picks up false signals and spikes the
tach. Make sure shaft isn't wobby or sensor connection isn't
saturated with oil.
The idle drops when the hose broke off (and probably a rip
diaphram inside the VAD) the ignition retards then someone
raise the idle mixture to compensate. After the replacement
the timng advances and the idle goes higher. Get a timing gun,
reset the timing, reset ECU (unplug batt,) check for vac leaks
then reset idle. If idle mixuter yellow ink mark isn't tampered
then leave it alone.
11-25-2004 | 07:41 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: black thingy on distributor?
> Burt Squareman wrote:
> > "Caleb" wrote
> > Vacuum Advance Diaphragm; design for power and economy. I've
> > seen so many of them break off which raises the idle, retards ign,
> > leans, then pings.
> Ive done some checks, it is a vacuum advance thingy, i got a new
> replacement and put it on, now the idle is even higher! but while i was
> installing it i notices there was some oil inside the distributor. is
> this very bad? Ive checked the cylinder head and all the springs/tappets
> are fine. Im going to clean the distributor today and see how that goes.
> the oil was not in the part with the spinny plastic thing with the metal
> connetcor it was underneath the plastic cover.
The oil in the distributor may account for the jumpy tach.
The VAD rips open then vacuum sucks oil in from head to
sensors. The reluctor picks up false signals and spikes the
tach. Make sure shaft isn't wobby or sensor connection isn't
saturated with oil.
The idle drops when the hose broke off (and probably a rip
diaphram inside the VAD) the ignition retards then someone
raise the idle mixture to compensate. After the replacement
the timng advances and the idle goes higher. Get a timing gun,
reset the timing, reset ECU (unplug batt,) check for vac leaks
then reset idle. If idle mixuter yellow ink mark isn't tampered
then leave it alone.
> > "Caleb" wrote
> > Vacuum Advance Diaphragm; design for power and economy. I've
> > seen so many of them break off which raises the idle, retards ign,
> > leans, then pings.
> Ive done some checks, it is a vacuum advance thingy, i got a new
> replacement and put it on, now the idle is even higher! but while i was
> installing it i notices there was some oil inside the distributor. is
> this very bad? Ive checked the cylinder head and all the springs/tappets
> are fine. Im going to clean the distributor today and see how that goes.
> the oil was not in the part with the spinny plastic thing with the metal
> connetcor it was underneath the plastic cover.
The oil in the distributor may account for the jumpy tach.
The VAD rips open then vacuum sucks oil in from head to
sensors. The reluctor picks up false signals and spikes the
tach. Make sure shaft isn't wobby or sensor connection isn't
saturated with oil.
The idle drops when the hose broke off (and probably a rip
diaphram inside the VAD) the ignition retards then someone
raise the idle mixture to compensate. After the replacement
the timng advances and the idle goes higher. Get a timing gun,
reset the timing, reset ECU (unplug batt,) check for vac leaks
then reset idle. If idle mixuter yellow ink mark isn't tampered
then leave it alone.
11-25-2004 | 07:41 PM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: black thingy on distributor?
> Burt Squareman wrote:
> > "Caleb" wrote
> > Vacuum Advance Diaphragm; design for power and economy. I've
> > seen so many of them break off which raises the idle, retards ign,
> > leans, then pings.
> Ive done some checks, it is a vacuum advance thingy, i got a new
> replacement and put it on, now the idle is even higher! but while i was
> installing it i notices there was some oil inside the distributor. is
> this very bad? Ive checked the cylinder head and all the springs/tappets
> are fine. Im going to clean the distributor today and see how that goes.
> the oil was not in the part with the spinny plastic thing with the metal
> connetcor it was underneath the plastic cover.
The oil in the distributor may account for the jumpy tach.
The VAD rips open then vacuum sucks oil in from head to
sensors. The reluctor picks up false signals and spikes the
tach. Make sure shaft isn't wobby or sensor connection isn't
saturated with oil.
The idle drops when the hose broke off (and probably a rip
diaphram inside the VAD) the ignition retards then someone
raise the idle mixture to compensate. After the replacement
the timng advances and the idle goes higher. Get a timing gun,
reset the timing, reset ECU (unplug batt,) check for vac leaks
then reset idle. If idle mixuter yellow ink mark isn't tampered
then leave it alone.
> > "Caleb" wrote
> > Vacuum Advance Diaphragm; design for power and economy. I've
> > seen so many of them break off which raises the idle, retards ign,
> > leans, then pings.
> Ive done some checks, it is a vacuum advance thingy, i got a new
> replacement and put it on, now the idle is even higher! but while i was
> installing it i notices there was some oil inside the distributor. is
> this very bad? Ive checked the cylinder head and all the springs/tappets
> are fine. Im going to clean the distributor today and see how that goes.
> the oil was not in the part with the spinny plastic thing with the metal
> connetcor it was underneath the plastic cover.
The oil in the distributor may account for the jumpy tach.
The VAD rips open then vacuum sucks oil in from head to
sensors. The reluctor picks up false signals and spikes the
tach. Make sure shaft isn't wobby or sensor connection isn't
saturated with oil.
The idle drops when the hose broke off (and probably a rip
diaphram inside the VAD) the ignition retards then someone
raise the idle mixture to compensate. After the replacement
the timng advances and the idle goes higher. Get a timing gun,
reset the timing, reset ECU (unplug batt,) check for vac leaks
then reset idle. If idle mixuter yellow ink mark isn't tampered
then leave it alone.
11-25-2004 | 07:41 PM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: black thingy on distributor?
> Burt Squareman wrote:
> > "Caleb" wrote
> > Vacuum Advance Diaphragm; design for power and economy. I've
> > seen so many of them break off which raises the idle, retards ign,
> > leans, then pings.
> Ive done some checks, it is a vacuum advance thingy, i got a new
> replacement and put it on, now the idle is even higher! but while i was
> installing it i notices there was some oil inside the distributor. is
> this very bad? Ive checked the cylinder head and all the springs/tappets
> are fine. Im going to clean the distributor today and see how that goes.
> the oil was not in the part with the spinny plastic thing with the metal
> connetcor it was underneath the plastic cover.
The oil in the distributor may account for the jumpy tach.
The VAD rips open then vacuum sucks oil in from head to
sensors. The reluctor picks up false signals and spikes the
tach. Make sure shaft isn't wobby or sensor connection isn't
saturated with oil.
The idle drops when the hose broke off (and probably a rip
diaphram inside the VAD) the ignition retards then someone
raise the idle mixture to compensate. After the replacement
the timng advances and the idle goes higher. Get a timing gun,
reset the timing, reset ECU (unplug batt,) check for vac leaks
then reset idle. If idle mixuter yellow ink mark isn't tampered
then leave it alone.
> > "Caleb" wrote
> > Vacuum Advance Diaphragm; design for power and economy. I've
> > seen so many of them break off which raises the idle, retards ign,
> > leans, then pings.
> Ive done some checks, it is a vacuum advance thingy, i got a new
> replacement and put it on, now the idle is even higher! but while i was
> installing it i notices there was some oil inside the distributor. is
> this very bad? Ive checked the cylinder head and all the springs/tappets
> are fine. Im going to clean the distributor today and see how that goes.
> the oil was not in the part with the spinny plastic thing with the metal
> connetcor it was underneath the plastic cover.
The oil in the distributor may account for the jumpy tach.
The VAD rips open then vacuum sucks oil in from head to
sensors. The reluctor picks up false signals and spikes the
tach. Make sure shaft isn't wobby or sensor connection isn't
saturated with oil.
The idle drops when the hose broke off (and probably a rip
diaphram inside the VAD) the ignition retards then someone
raise the idle mixture to compensate. After the replacement
the timng advances and the idle goes higher. Get a timing gun,
reset the timing, reset ECU (unplug batt,) check for vac leaks
then reset idle. If idle mixuter yellow ink mark isn't tampered
then leave it alone.
11-25-2004 | 08:17 PM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: black thingy on distributor?
Caleb wrote:
>
> Ive done some checks, it is a vacuum advance thingy, i got a new
> replacement and put it on, now the idle is even higher! but while i was
> installing it i notices there was some oil inside the distributor. is
> this very bad? Ive checked the cylinder head and all the springs/tappets
> are fine. Im going to clean the distributor today and see how that goes.
> the oil was not in the part with the spinny plastic thing with the metal
> connetcor it was underneath the plastic cover.
Odds are the previous owner mucked around with the idle speed setting
while the vacuum advance system was out of comission. Perhaps you need
to get your hands on a service manual and set both the ignition timing
and the idle speed according to factory procedure.
11-25-2004 | 08:17 PM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: black thingy on distributor?
Caleb wrote:
>
> Ive done some checks, it is a vacuum advance thingy, i got a new
> replacement and put it on, now the idle is even higher! but while i was
> installing it i notices there was some oil inside the distributor. is
> this very bad? Ive checked the cylinder head and all the springs/tappets
> are fine. Im going to clean the distributor today and see how that goes.
> the oil was not in the part with the spinny plastic thing with the metal
> connetcor it was underneath the plastic cover.
Odds are the previous owner mucked around with the idle speed setting
while the vacuum advance system was out of comission. Perhaps you need
to get your hands on a service manual and set both the ignition timing
and the idle speed according to factory procedure.
11-27-2004 | 07:41 PM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: black thingy on distributor?
Burt Squareman wrote:
>>Burt Squareman wrote:
>>
>>>"Caleb" wrote
>>>Vacuum Advance Diaphragm; design for power and economy. I've
>>>seen so many of them break off which raises the idle, retards ign,
>>>leans, then pings.
>
>
>>Ive done some checks, it is a vacuum advance thingy, i got a new
>>replacement and put it on, now the idle is even higher! but while i was
>>installing it i notices there was some oil inside the distributor. is
>>this very bad? Ive checked the cylinder head and all the springs/tappets
>>are fine. Im going to clean the distributor today and see how that goes.
>>the oil was not in the part with the spinny plastic thing with the metal
>>connetcor it was underneath the plastic cover.
>
>
> The oil in the distributor may account for the jumpy tach.
> The VAD rips open then vacuum sucks oil in from head to
> sensors. The reluctor picks up false signals and spikes the
> tach. Make sure shaft isn't wobby or sensor connection isn't
> saturated with oil.
>
> The idle drops when the hose broke off (and probably a rip
> diaphram inside the VAD) the ignition retards then someone
> raise the idle mixture to compensate. After the replacement
> the timng advances and the idle goes higher. Get a timing gun,
> reset the timing, reset ECU (unplug batt,) check for vac leaks
> then reset idle. If idle mixuter yellow ink mark isn't tampered
> then leave it alone.
>
>
Thanks, it was the oil in the distributor that was causing the jumping
tacho, I replaced the distributor and the VAD and it is running great
now (apart from idle) I can do the timing and reset the ECU and check
for leaks, but how do i reset the idle? and wheres the idle mixuter?
another thing that happened was all this green liquid stuff sprayed out
from one of the AC pipes while I was driving, I think there was supposed
to be a black cap on there, Im assuming this is no problem to the car.
>>Burt Squareman wrote:
>>
>>>"Caleb" wrote
>>>Vacuum Advance Diaphragm; design for power and economy. I've
>>>seen so many of them break off which raises the idle, retards ign,
>>>leans, then pings.
>
>
>>Ive done some checks, it is a vacuum advance thingy, i got a new
>>replacement and put it on, now the idle is even higher! but while i was
>>installing it i notices there was some oil inside the distributor. is
>>this very bad? Ive checked the cylinder head and all the springs/tappets
>>are fine. Im going to clean the distributor today and see how that goes.
>>the oil was not in the part with the spinny plastic thing with the metal
>>connetcor it was underneath the plastic cover.
>
>
> The oil in the distributor may account for the jumpy tach.
> The VAD rips open then vacuum sucks oil in from head to
> sensors. The reluctor picks up false signals and spikes the
> tach. Make sure shaft isn't wobby or sensor connection isn't
> saturated with oil.
>
> The idle drops when the hose broke off (and probably a rip
> diaphram inside the VAD) the ignition retards then someone
> raise the idle mixture to compensate. After the replacement
> the timng advances and the idle goes higher. Get a timing gun,
> reset the timing, reset ECU (unplug batt,) check for vac leaks
> then reset idle. If idle mixuter yellow ink mark isn't tampered
> then leave it alone.
>
>
Thanks, it was the oil in the distributor that was causing the jumping
tacho, I replaced the distributor and the VAD and it is running great
now (apart from idle) I can do the timing and reset the ECU and check
for leaks, but how do i reset the idle? and wheres the idle mixuter?
another thing that happened was all this green liquid stuff sprayed out
from one of the AC pipes while I was driving, I think there was supposed
to be a black cap on there, Im assuming this is no problem to the car.
11-27-2004 | 07:41 PM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: black thingy on distributor?
Burt Squareman wrote:
>>Burt Squareman wrote:
>>
>>>"Caleb" wrote
>>>Vacuum Advance Diaphragm; design for power and economy. I've
>>>seen so many of them break off which raises the idle, retards ign,
>>>leans, then pings.
>
>
>>Ive done some checks, it is a vacuum advance thingy, i got a new
>>replacement and put it on, now the idle is even higher! but while i was
>>installing it i notices there was some oil inside the distributor. is
>>this very bad? Ive checked the cylinder head and all the springs/tappets
>>are fine. Im going to clean the distributor today and see how that goes.
>>the oil was not in the part with the spinny plastic thing with the metal
>>connetcor it was underneath the plastic cover.
>
>
> The oil in the distributor may account for the jumpy tach.
> The VAD rips open then vacuum sucks oil in from head to
> sensors. The reluctor picks up false signals and spikes the
> tach. Make sure shaft isn't wobby or sensor connection isn't
> saturated with oil.
>
> The idle drops when the hose broke off (and probably a rip
> diaphram inside the VAD) the ignition retards then someone
> raise the idle mixture to compensate. After the replacement
> the timng advances and the idle goes higher. Get a timing gun,
> reset the timing, reset ECU (unplug batt,) check for vac leaks
> then reset idle. If idle mixuter yellow ink mark isn't tampered
> then leave it alone.
>
>
Thanks, it was the oil in the distributor that was causing the jumping
tacho, I replaced the distributor and the VAD and it is running great
now (apart from idle) I can do the timing and reset the ECU and check
for leaks, but how do i reset the idle? and wheres the idle mixuter?
another thing that happened was all this green liquid stuff sprayed out
from one of the AC pipes while I was driving, I think there was supposed
to be a black cap on there, Im assuming this is no problem to the car.
>>Burt Squareman wrote:
>>
>>>"Caleb" wrote
>>>Vacuum Advance Diaphragm; design for power and economy. I've
>>>seen so many of them break off which raises the idle, retards ign,
>>>leans, then pings.
>
>
>>Ive done some checks, it is a vacuum advance thingy, i got a new
>>replacement and put it on, now the idle is even higher! but while i was
>>installing it i notices there was some oil inside the distributor. is
>>this very bad? Ive checked the cylinder head and all the springs/tappets
>>are fine. Im going to clean the distributor today and see how that goes.
>>the oil was not in the part with the spinny plastic thing with the metal
>>connetcor it was underneath the plastic cover.
>
>
> The oil in the distributor may account for the jumpy tach.
> The VAD rips open then vacuum sucks oil in from head to
> sensors. The reluctor picks up false signals and spikes the
> tach. Make sure shaft isn't wobby or sensor connection isn't
> saturated with oil.
>
> The idle drops when the hose broke off (and probably a rip
> diaphram inside the VAD) the ignition retards then someone
> raise the idle mixture to compensate. After the replacement
> the timng advances and the idle goes higher. Get a timing gun,
> reset the timing, reset ECU (unplug batt,) check for vac leaks
> then reset idle. If idle mixuter yellow ink mark isn't tampered
> then leave it alone.
>
>
Thanks, it was the oil in the distributor that was causing the jumping
tacho, I replaced the distributor and the VAD and it is running great
now (apart from idle) I can do the timing and reset the ECU and check
for leaks, but how do i reset the idle? and wheres the idle mixuter?
another thing that happened was all this green liquid stuff sprayed out
from one of the AC pipes while I was driving, I think there was supposed
to be a black cap on there, Im assuming this is no problem to the car.
11-29-2004 | 02:00 AM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: black thingy on distributor?
Caleb wrote:
> Thanks, it was the oil in the distributor that was causing the jumping
> tacho, I replaced the distributor and the VAD and it is running great
> now (apart from idle) I can do the timing and reset the ECU and check
> for leaks, but how do i reset the idle? and wheres the idle mixuter?
Odds are you don't have an idle-mixture adjustment, the PGM-FI system
controls the mixture. There is an idle speed adjustment, but you need to
know what you are doing before trying to adjust it. Typically adjusting
idle speed on a fuel injected engine entails disabling one or more
vacuum hoses and bypass valves etc., and then adjust to a certain RPM.
The factory manual from http://www.helminc.com will have instructions.
Haynes or Chiltons probably do too.
One word of warning: On the throttle body there is a throttle stop screw
that looks and works like the idle adjustment screw on a carburetor. Do
not touch it. This is NOT where the idle is adjusted. This screw is
factory adjusted, and the service manual has big warnings about all hell
breaking loose if you touch it.
> another thing that happened was all this green liquid stuff sprayed out
> from one of the AC pipes while I was driving, I think there was supposed
> to be a black cap on there, Im assuming this is no problem to the car.
The black cap is just a dust cap, it covers a check valve in the
refrigerant line. It seems your check valve broke. There would be no
danger in driving the car, but do not turn on the A/C. If you want to
have the A/C fixed, you may want to do it sooner rather than later.
Freon (R12) is going up in price every season as supplies are exhausted.
11-29-2004 | 02:00 AM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: black thingy on distributor?
Caleb wrote:
> Thanks, it was the oil in the distributor that was causing the jumping
> tacho, I replaced the distributor and the VAD and it is running great
> now (apart from idle) I can do the timing and reset the ECU and check
> for leaks, but how do i reset the idle? and wheres the idle mixuter?
Odds are you don't have an idle-mixture adjustment, the PGM-FI system
controls the mixture. There is an idle speed adjustment, but you need to
know what you are doing before trying to adjust it. Typically adjusting
idle speed on a fuel injected engine entails disabling one or more
vacuum hoses and bypass valves etc., and then adjust to a certain RPM.
The factory manual from http://www.helminc.com will have instructions.
Haynes or Chiltons probably do too.
One word of warning: On the throttle body there is a throttle stop screw
that looks and works like the idle adjustment screw on a carburetor. Do
not touch it. This is NOT where the idle is adjusted. This screw is
factory adjusted, and the service manual has big warnings about all hell
breaking loose if you touch it.
> another thing that happened was all this green liquid stuff sprayed out
> from one of the AC pipes while I was driving, I think there was supposed
> to be a black cap on there, Im assuming this is no problem to the car.
The black cap is just a dust cap, it covers a check valve in the
refrigerant line. It seems your check valve broke. There would be no
danger in driving the car, but do not turn on the A/C. If you want to
have the A/C fixed, you may want to do it sooner rather than later.
Freon (R12) is going up in price every season as supplies are exhausted.
11-29-2004 | 09:54 AM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: black thingy on distributor?
"Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message news:41AAC9CF.C2757140@junkmail.com...
> Caleb wrote:
> > Thanks, it was the oil in the distributor that was causing the jumping
> > tacho, I replaced the distributor and the VAD and it is running great
> > now (apart from idle) I can do the timing and reset the ECU and check
> > for leaks, but how do i reset the idle? and wheres the idle mixuter?
> Odds are you don't have an idle-mixture adjustment, the PGM-FI system
> controls the mixture. There is an idle speed adjustment, but you need to
> know what you are doing before trying to adjust it.
Randalph is right, there is no idle mixture. I'd mistaken. I was
referring to the idle adjusting screw.
>Typically adjusting idle speed on a fuel injected
> engine entails disabling one or more vacuum hoses
> and bypass valves etc., and then adjust to a certain RPM.
> The factory manual from http://www.helminc.com will have
> instructions. Haynes or Chiltons probably do too.
Typical early Honda FI idle adjustment require disconnecting the
EACV electrical connector then set idle adjusting screw on throttle
body to 650-rpm +- 50 in neutral with no load. Shut off engine,
reconnect the 2-pin connector, reset ECU and restart engine again.
It should be at 750-rpm +- 50 with loads. Check Acura Helm
manual for accuracy.
Warning: Be sure no trapped air, fast idle, vac-leak, or
cold sensor causing high idle problems and that the VAD is not
from a junk yard and leaking.
> One word of warning: On the throttle body there is a throttle stop screw
> that looks and works like the idle adjustment screw on a carburetor. Do
> not touch it. This is NOT where the idle is adjusted. This screw is
> factory adjusted, and the service manual has big warnings about all hell
> breaking loose if you touch it.
Absolutely right.
> Caleb wrote:
> > Thanks, it was the oil in the distributor that was causing the jumping
> > tacho, I replaced the distributor and the VAD and it is running great
> > now (apart from idle) I can do the timing and reset the ECU and check
> > for leaks, but how do i reset the idle? and wheres the idle mixuter?
> Odds are you don't have an idle-mixture adjustment, the PGM-FI system
> controls the mixture. There is an idle speed adjustment, but you need to
> know what you are doing before trying to adjust it.
Randalph is right, there is no idle mixture. I'd mistaken. I was
referring to the idle adjusting screw.
>Typically adjusting idle speed on a fuel injected
> engine entails disabling one or more vacuum hoses
> and bypass valves etc., and then adjust to a certain RPM.
> The factory manual from http://www.helminc.com will have
> instructions. Haynes or Chiltons probably do too.
Typical early Honda FI idle adjustment require disconnecting the
EACV electrical connector then set idle adjusting screw on throttle
body to 650-rpm +- 50 in neutral with no load. Shut off engine,
reconnect the 2-pin connector, reset ECU and restart engine again.
It should be at 750-rpm +- 50 with loads. Check Acura Helm
manual for accuracy.
Warning: Be sure no trapped air, fast idle, vac-leak, or
cold sensor causing high idle problems and that the VAD is not
from a junk yard and leaking.
> One word of warning: On the throttle body there is a throttle stop screw
> that looks and works like the idle adjustment screw on a carburetor. Do
> not touch it. This is NOT where the idle is adjusted. This screw is
> factory adjusted, and the service manual has big warnings about all hell
> breaking loose if you touch it.
Absolutely right.