Yesterday I thought I'd scoured e-bay. Thanks, this tool may
be the one!

This morning I ordered new front suspension spring coils and
stabilizer links and stabilizer bushings from the "Team
Honda" in Colorado, www.cheapesthondaparts.com , which
Tegger's site references. If all goes well with Team Honda,
I will add it to my site. Team Honda had the best price,
taking into account shipping: OEM coils at $48.25 each, with
a shipping charge of 10%. List prices are similar to
Majestic, but Majestic's shipping charges are more (at least
for my location). Majestic does now have an online shipping
estimator.

Then I'm onto the ball joints. One step at a time...

"Ryan Biggs" <ryan@geo.utexas.edu> wrote
>I bought a tool like those sold at Princess Auto - it
>worked very
> well. I ground it out a bit with a die grinder to make
> sure it
> wouldn't tear the boots on my Legend, and it still had
> more than
> enough strength. Another source for these is a tool
> company that sells
> them on eBay for $29. I figured this would be easier than
> dealing with
> an international order. The URL for the tool is below:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/J-172...QQcmdZViewItem

 

"Headknocker via CarKB.com" wrote:
>
> Yeah, I've been using "the cheap-looking piece of crap" tool from JC
> Whitney for years and it works like a charm. In fact, I used it to
> remove the upper balljoint and outer tie rod ends(to replace the aging
> dust boots) on my '98 CRV several weeks ago.
>
> BTW, here's a little tip on how to keep the pin from spinning when you're
> trying to put the nut back on. I use one of my vise grip wrenches to hold
> the two pieces together(which puts pressure on the joint) and that holds
> the pin steady.
>

If I remember correctly, the manual states that the suspension should be
raised up to its normal ride height before tightening the ball joint castle
nuts (and also before tightening the lower control arm pivot and strut
attachment bolts). I usually find it easiest to raise the lower control arm
with a floor jack (it's fast, easy, and takes care of multiple steps at the
same time, i.e., the ball joint and the lower control arm).

Lastly, never loosen the castle nut to align the cotter key holes. Always
tighten it to the next one.

Eric

 

"Headknocker via CarKB.com" wrote:
>
> Yeah, I've been using "the cheap-looking piece of crap" tool from JC
> Whitney for years and it works like a charm. In fact, I used it to
> remove the upper balljoint and outer tie rod ends(to replace the aging
> dust boots) on my '98 CRV several weeks ago.
>
> BTW, here's a little tip on how to keep the pin from spinning when you're
> trying to put the nut back on. I use one of my vise grip wrenches to hold
> the two pieces together(which puts pressure on the joint) and that holds
> the pin steady.
>

If I remember correctly, the manual states that the suspension should be
raised up to its normal ride height before tightening the ball joint castle
nuts (and also before tightening the lower control arm pivot and strut
attachment bolts). I usually find it easiest to raise the lower control arm
with a floor jack (it's fast, easy, and takes care of multiple steps at the
same time, i.e., the ball joint and the lower control arm).

Lastly, never loosen the castle nut to align the cotter key holes. Always
tighten it to the next one.

Eric

 

In three shops I've worked in no-one has had this tool. Looks neat; but by
the time I dig it out and set it up a sharp blow from the hammer already has
the joint loose.


--
Stephen W. Hansen
ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance
ASE Undercar Specialist

http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troub...l_obd_main.htm
http://www.troublecodes.net/technical/



"Grumpy AuContraire" <Grumpster@GrumpyvilleNOT.com> wrote in message
news:44436856.24E1A405@GrumpyvilleNOT.com...
>I usually just use a hammer for a few sharp blows on the side of the
> joint which ususally dislodges it.
>
> JT
>
>
>
>
> John wrote:
>>
>> The cheap ones are not the best and easiest to use but they to get the
>> job
>> done. I'd rather use a cheap one like this rather than banging on the LCA
>> to
>> get the ball joint out.
>>
>> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
>> news:F7u0g.3748$BS2.2631@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>> > I would like to get a decent ball joint lifter tool for
>> > under $30. Tegger's site
>> > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html describes
>> > several. I am aiming for the second category. Here are two
>> > in that category:
>> >
>> >
>> http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...reId=10101&Pr=
>> p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2004158&TID=100&TID=100&pr oductId=2004158&catalogId=
>> 10101
>> >
>> > http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-61900.html
>> >
>> > Both the separating tools at the above link seem to be
>> > "single stage" whereas the ones at Tegger's site are what I
>> > think are called "two stage." The single stage ones tend to
>> > be around one-fourth the price of the two stage ones. Will I
>> > get a lot more for the money with the two stage ones? Seems
>> > like the single stage one sure prevail when googling for
>> > "ball joint lifter."
>> >
>> > Also, do I need a "ball joint press kit" of some kind for
>> > putting the ball joints back together? My Chilton's manual
>> > isn't too good on these points. The factory service manuals
>> > at the UK site seem a little better and I'm studying them
>> > now.
>> >
>> > I am prepping for a major rebuild of my 91 Civic's
>> > suspension.
>> >
>> >

 

In three shops I've worked in no-one has had this tool. Looks neat; but by
the time I dig it out and set it up a sharp blow from the hammer already has
the joint loose.


--
Stephen W. Hansen
ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance
ASE Undercar Specialist

http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troub...l_obd_main.htm
http://www.troublecodes.net/technical/



"Grumpy AuContraire" <Grumpster@GrumpyvilleNOT.com> wrote in message
news:44436856.24E1A405@GrumpyvilleNOT.com...
>I usually just use a hammer for a few sharp blows on the side of the
> joint which ususally dislodges it.
>
> JT
>
>
>
>
> John wrote:
>>
>> The cheap ones are not the best and easiest to use but they to get the
>> job
>> done. I'd rather use a cheap one like this rather than banging on the LCA
>> to
>> get the ball joint out.
>>
>> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
>> news:F7u0g.3748$BS2.2631@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>> > I would like to get a decent ball joint lifter tool for
>> > under $30. Tegger's site
>> > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html describes
>> > several. I am aiming for the second category. Here are two
>> > in that category:
>> >
>> >
>> http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...reId=10101&Pr=
>> p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2004158&TID=100&TID=100&pr oductId=2004158&catalogId=
>> 10101
>> >
>> > http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-61900.html
>> >
>> > Both the separating tools at the above link seem to be
>> > "single stage" whereas the ones at Tegger's site are what I
>> > think are called "two stage." The single stage ones tend to
>> > be around one-fourth the price of the two stage ones. Will I
>> > get a lot more for the money with the two stage ones? Seems
>> > like the single stage one sure prevail when googling for
>> > "ball joint lifter."
>> >
>> > Also, do I need a "ball joint press kit" of some kind for
>> > putting the ball joints back together? My Chilton's manual
>> > isn't too good on these points. The factory service manuals
>> > at the UK site seem a little better and I'm studying them
>> > now.
>> >
>> > I am prepping for a major rebuild of my 91 Civic's
>> > suspension.
>> >
>> >

 

The advantage to the hammer technique is that the joint is not stressed
and the possibility of damage to the boot is reduced. It's an old time
practice and best of all, it's free! Of course, flipping the castle nut
and applying loosely prevents the joint assembly from dropping completely.

<G>

JT




Stephen H wrote:
>
> In three shops I've worked in no-one has had this tool. Looks neat; but by
> the time I dig it out and set it up a sharp blow from the hammer already has
> the joint loose.
>
> --
> Stephen W. Hansen
> ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
> ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance
> ASE Undercar Specialist
>
> http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troub...l_obd_main.htm
> http://www.troublecodes.net/technical/
>
> "Grumpy AuContraire" <Grumpster@GrumpyvilleNOT.com> wrote in message
> news:44436856.24E1A405@GrumpyvilleNOT.com...
> >I usually just use a hammer for a few sharp blows on the side of the
> > joint which ususally dislodges it.
> >
> > JT
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > John wrote:
> >>
> >> The cheap ones are not the best and easiest to use but they to get the
> >> job
> >> done. I'd rather use a cheap one like this rather than banging on the LCA
> >> to
> >> get the ball joint out.
> >>
> >> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
> >> news:F7u0g.3748$BS2.2631@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> >> > I would like to get a decent ball joint lifter tool for
> >> > under $30. Tegger's site
> >> > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html describes
> >> > several. I am aiming for the second category. Here are two
> >> > in that category:
> >> >
> >> >
> >> http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...reId=10101&Pr=
> >> p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2004158&TID=100&TID=100&pr oductId=2004158&catalogId=
> >> 10101
> >> >
> >> > http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-61900.html
> >> >
> >> > Both the separating tools at the above link seem to be
> >> > "single stage" whereas the ones at Tegger's site are what I
> >> > think are called "two stage." The single stage ones tend to
> >> > be around one-fourth the price of the two stage ones. Will I
> >> > get a lot more for the money with the two stage ones? Seems
> >> > like the single stage one sure prevail when googling for
> >> > "ball joint lifter."
> >> >
> >> > Also, do I need a "ball joint press kit" of some kind for
> >> > putting the ball joints back together? My Chilton's manual
> >> > isn't too good on these points. The factory service manuals
> >> > at the UK site seem a little better and I'm studying them
> >> > now.
> >> >
> >> > I am prepping for a major rebuild of my 91 Civic's
> >> > suspension.
> >> >
> >> >

 

The advantage to the hammer technique is that the joint is not stressed
and the possibility of damage to the boot is reduced. It's an old time
practice and best of all, it's free! Of course, flipping the castle nut
and applying loosely prevents the joint assembly from dropping completely.

<G>

JT




Stephen H wrote:
>
> In three shops I've worked in no-one has had this tool. Looks neat; but by
> the time I dig it out and set it up a sharp blow from the hammer already has
> the joint loose.
>
> --
> Stephen W. Hansen
> ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
> ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance
> ASE Undercar Specialist
>
> http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troub...l_obd_main.htm
> http://www.troublecodes.net/technical/
>
> "Grumpy AuContraire" <Grumpster@GrumpyvilleNOT.com> wrote in message
> news:44436856.24E1A405@GrumpyvilleNOT.com...
> >I usually just use a hammer for a few sharp blows on the side of the
> > joint which ususally dislodges it.
> >
> > JT
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > John wrote:
> >>
> >> The cheap ones are not the best and easiest to use but they to get the
> >> job
> >> done. I'd rather use a cheap one like this rather than banging on the LCA
> >> to
> >> get the ball joint out.
> >>
> >> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
> >> news:F7u0g.3748$BS2.2631@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> >> > I would like to get a decent ball joint lifter tool for
> >> > under $30. Tegger's site
> >> > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html describes
> >> > several. I am aiming for the second category. Here are two
> >> > in that category:
> >> >
> >> >
> >> http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...reId=10101&Pr=
> >> p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2004158&TID=100&TID=100&pr oductId=2004158&catalogId=
> >> 10101
> >> >
> >> > http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-61900.html
> >> >
> >> > Both the separating tools at the above link seem to be
> >> > "single stage" whereas the ones at Tegger's site are what I
> >> > think are called "two stage." The single stage ones tend to
> >> > be around one-fourth the price of the two stage ones. Will I
> >> > get a lot more for the money with the two stage ones? Seems
> >> > like the single stage one sure prevail when googling for
> >> > "ball joint lifter."
> >> >
> >> > Also, do I need a "ball joint press kit" of some kind for
> >> > putting the ball joints back together? My Chilton's manual
> >> > isn't too good on these points. The factory service manuals
> >> > at the UK site seem a little better and I'm studying them
> >> > now.
> >> >
> >> > I am prepping for a major rebuild of my 91 Civic's
> >> > suspension.
> >> >
> >> >

 

"Stephen H" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:WJ_0g.37858$1q4.25658@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> In three shops I've worked in no-one has had this tool. Looks neat; but by
> the time I dig it out and set it up a sharp blow from the hammer already
> has the joint loose.
>
>
> --
> Stephen W. Hansen
> ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
> ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance
> ASE Undercar Specialist
>
There must be a trick to that. The last one I did without the tool didn't
give way even with an air hammer on one side and a 4-lb hammer head on the
other side to buck it. It makes sense to me, but I can't seem to make it
work.

Mike

 

"Stephen H" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:WJ_0g.37858$1q4.25658@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> In three shops I've worked in no-one has had this tool. Looks neat; but by
> the time I dig it out and set it up a sharp blow from the hammer already
> has the joint loose.
>
>
> --
> Stephen W. Hansen
> ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
> ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance
> ASE Undercar Specialist
>
There must be a trick to that. The last one I did without the tool didn't
give way even with an air hammer on one side and a 4-lb hammer head on the
other side to buck it. It makes sense to me, but I can't seem to make it
work.

Mike

 

Michael Pardee wrote:
>
> "Stephen H" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:WJ_0g.37858$1q4.25658@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> > In three shops I've worked in no-one has had this tool. Looks neat; but by
> > the time I dig it out and set it up a sharp blow from the hammer already
> > has the joint loose.
> >
> >
> > --
> > Stephen W. Hansen
> > ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
> > ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance
> > ASE Undercar Specialist
> >
> There must be a trick to that. The last one I did without the tool didn't
> give way even with an air hammer on one side and a 4-lb hammer head on the
> other side to buck it. It makes sense to me, but I can't seem to make it
> work.
>
> Mike



The idea is to use "sharp" blows, not massive power. I've had about a
95% success rate...

JT

 

Michael Pardee wrote:
>
> "Stephen H" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:WJ_0g.37858$1q4.25658@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> > In three shops I've worked in no-one has had this tool. Looks neat; but by
> > the time I dig it out and set it up a sharp blow from the hammer already
> > has the joint loose.
> >
> >
> > --
> > Stephen W. Hansen
> > ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
> > ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance
> > ASE Undercar Specialist
> >
> There must be a trick to that. The last one I did without the tool didn't
> give way even with an air hammer on one side and a 4-lb hammer head on the
> other side to buck it. It makes sense to me, but I can't seem to make it
> work.
>
> Mike



The idea is to use "sharp" blows, not massive power. I've had about a
95% success rate...

JT

 

"Grumpy AuContraire" <Grumpster@GrumpyvilleNOT.com> wrote in message
news:44458359.6816568A@GrumpyvilleNOT.com...
>
>
> Michael Pardee wrote:
>>
>> "Stephen H" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:WJ_0g.37858$1q4.25658@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>> > In three shops I've worked in no-one has had this tool. Looks neat; but
>> > by
>> > the time I dig it out and set it up a sharp blow from the hammer
>> > already
>> > has the joint loose.
>> >
>> >
>> > --
>> > Stephen W. Hansen
>> > ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
>> > ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance
>> > ASE Undercar Specialist
>> >
>> There must be a trick to that. The last one I did without the tool didn't
>> give way even with an air hammer on one side and a 4-lb hammer head on
>> the
>> other side to buck it. It makes sense to me, but I can't seem to make it
>> work.
>>
>> Mike
>
>
>
> The idea is to use "sharp" blows, not massive power. I've had about a
> 95% success rate...
>
> JT

That's why I thought the air hammer would do the trick. I would need a
massive brass transplant to get me to swing a regular hammer under the car
the way it would take to upset a ball joint.

Mike

 

"Grumpy AuContraire" <Grumpster@GrumpyvilleNOT.com> wrote in message
news:44458359.6816568A@GrumpyvilleNOT.com...
>
>
> Michael Pardee wrote:
>>
>> "Stephen H" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:WJ_0g.37858$1q4.25658@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>> > In three shops I've worked in no-one has had this tool. Looks neat; but
>> > by
>> > the time I dig it out and set it up a sharp blow from the hammer
>> > already
>> > has the joint loose.
>> >
>> >
>> > --
>> > Stephen W. Hansen
>> > ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
>> > ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance
>> > ASE Undercar Specialist
>> >
>> There must be a trick to that. The last one I did without the tool didn't
>> give way even with an air hammer on one side and a 4-lb hammer head on
>> the
>> other side to buck it. It makes sense to me, but I can't seem to make it
>> work.
>>
>> Mike
>
>
>
> The idea is to use "sharp" blows, not massive power. I've had about a
> 95% success rate...
>
> JT

That's why I thought the air hammer would do the trick. I would need a
massive brass transplant to get me to swing a regular hammer under the car
the way it would take to upset a ball joint.

Mike

 

"Grumpy AuContraire" <Grumpster@GrumpyvilleNOT.com> wrote in message
news:44458359.6816568A@GrumpyvilleNOT.com...
>
>
> Michael Pardee wrote:
>>
>> "Stephen H" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:WJ_0g.37858$1q4.25658@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>> > In three shops I've worked in no-one has had this tool. Looks neat; but
>> > by
>> > the time I dig it out and set it up a sharp blow from the hammer
>> > already
>> > has the joint loose.
>> >
>> >
>> > --
>> > Stephen W. Hansen
>> > ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
>> > ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance
>> > ASE Undercar Specialist
>> >
>> There must be a trick to that. The last one I did without the tool didn't
>> give way even with an air hammer on one side and a 4-lb hammer head on
>> the
>> other side to buck it. It makes sense to me, but I can't seem to make it
>> work.
>>
>> Mike
>
>
>
> The idea is to use "sharp" blows, not massive power. I've had about a
> 95% success rate...
>
> JT

That's why I thought the air hammer would do the trick. I would need a
massive brass transplant to get me to swing a regular hammer under the car
the way it would take to upset a ball joint.

Mike

 

Just did 2 on a rusty Subaru today Time spent total 2 minutes; and that
included putting down the prepare in my hand.
I admit; I was a pickle fork user until 1.5 years ago. I kept watching
another tech pull joints apart after one or two blows from a hammer. I got
my biggest hammer and gave it a try.
My pickle fork has been out of the box 1 time this year.



--
Stephen W. Hansen
ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance
ASE Undercar Specialist

http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troub...l_obd_main.htm
http://www.troublecodes.net/technical/




"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message
news:-OWdnYRg548GF9jZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@sedona.net...
> "Grumpy AuContraire" <Grumpster@GrumpyvilleNOT.com> wrote in message
> news:44458359.6816568A@GrumpyvilleNOT.com...
>>
>>
>> Michael Pardee wrote:
>>>
>>> "Stephen H" <hansensw@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:WJ_0g.37858$1q4.25658@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>>> > In three shops I've worked in no-one has had this tool. Looks neat;
>>> > but by
>>> > the time I dig it out and set it up a sharp blow from the hammer
>>> > already
>>> > has the joint loose.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > --
>>> > Stephen W. Hansen
>>> > ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
>>> > ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance
>>> > ASE Undercar Specialist
>>> >
>>> There must be a trick to that. The last one I did without the tool
>>> didn't
>>> give way even with an air hammer on one side and a 4-lb hammer head on
>>> the
>>> other side to buck it. It makes sense to me, but I can't seem to make it
>>> work.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>
>>
>>
>> The idea is to use "sharp" blows, not massive power. I've had about a
>> 95% success rate...
>>
>> JT
>
> That's why I thought the air hammer would do the trick. I would need a
> massive brass transplant to get me to swing a regular hammer under the car
> the way it would take to upset a ball joint.
>
> Mike
>