The cheap ones are not the best and easiest to use but they to get the job
done. I'd rather use a cheap one like this rather than banging on the LCA to
get the ball joint out.


"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:F7u0g.3748$BS2.2631@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> I would like to get a decent ball joint lifter tool for
> under $30. Tegger's site
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html describes
> several. I am aiming for the second category. Here are two
> in that category:
>
>
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...reId=10101&Pr=
p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2004158&TID=100&TID=100&pr oductId=2004158&catalogId=
10101
>
> http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-61900.html
>
> Both the separating tools at the above link seem to be
> "single stage" whereas the ones at Tegger's site are what I
> think are called "two stage." The single stage ones tend to
> be around one-fourth the price of the two stage ones. Will I
> get a lot more for the money with the two stage ones? Seems
> like the single stage one sure prevail when googling for
> "ball joint lifter."
>
> Also, do I need a "ball joint press kit" of some kind for
> putting the ball joints back together? My Chilton's manual
> isn't too good on these points. The factory service manuals
> at the UK site seem a little better and I'm studying them
> now.
>
> I am prepping for a major rebuild of my 91 Civic's
> suspension.
>
>

 

The cheap ones are not the best and easiest to use but they to get the job
done. I'd rather use a cheap one like this rather than banging on the LCA to
get the ball joint out.


"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:F7u0g.3748$BS2.2631@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> I would like to get a decent ball joint lifter tool for
> under $30. Tegger's site
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html describes
> several. I am aiming for the second category. Here are two
> in that category:
>
>
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...reId=10101&Pr=
p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2004158&TID=100&TID=100&pr oductId=2004158&catalogId=
10101
>
> http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-61900.html
>
> Both the separating tools at the above link seem to be
> "single stage" whereas the ones at Tegger's site are what I
> think are called "two stage." The single stage ones tend to
> be around one-fourth the price of the two stage ones. Will I
> get a lot more for the money with the two stage ones? Seems
> like the single stage one sure prevail when googling for
> "ball joint lifter."
>
> Also, do I need a "ball joint press kit" of some kind for
> putting the ball joints back together? My Chilton's manual
> isn't too good on these points. The factory service manuals
> at the UK site seem a little better and I'm studying them
> now.
>
> I am prepping for a major rebuild of my 91 Civic's
> suspension.
>
>

 

Eric wrote:
>
> Elle wrote:
> >
> > I would like to get a decent ball joint lifter tool
>
> I have one of these http://www.asttool.com/html/cars/general/129_1.html
> It works well and it's very dependable.
>

------------------------------------------

That sucker is gorgeous. Good tools are nice to have, eh? As you can
see, I already own two identical ball joint puller tools. :-(

'Curly'

 

Eric wrote:
>
> Elle wrote:
> >
> > I would like to get a decent ball joint lifter tool
>
> I have one of these http://www.asttool.com/html/cars/general/129_1.html
> It works well and it's very dependable.
>

------------------------------------------

That sucker is gorgeous. Good tools are nice to have, eh? As you can
see, I already own two identical ball joint puller tools. :-(

'Curly'

 

I usually just use a hammer for a few sharp blows on the side of the
joint which ususally dislodges it.

JT




John wrote:
>
> The cheap ones are not the best and easiest to use but they to get the job
> done. I'd rather use a cheap one like this rather than banging on the LCA to
> get the ball joint out.
>
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:F7u0g.3748$BS2.2631@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> > I would like to get a decent ball joint lifter tool for
> > under $30. Tegger's site
> > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html describes
> > several. I am aiming for the second category. Here are two
> > in that category:
> >
> >
> http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...reId=10101&Pr=
> p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2004158&TID=100&TID=100&pr oductId=2004158&catalogId=
> 10101
> >
> > http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-61900.html
> >
> > Both the separating tools at the above link seem to be
> > "single stage" whereas the ones at Tegger's site are what I
> > think are called "two stage." The single stage ones tend to
> > be around one-fourth the price of the two stage ones. Will I
> > get a lot more for the money with the two stage ones? Seems
> > like the single stage one sure prevail when googling for
> > "ball joint lifter."
> >
> > Also, do I need a "ball joint press kit" of some kind for
> > putting the ball joints back together? My Chilton's manual
> > isn't too good on these points. The factory service manuals
> > at the UK site seem a little better and I'm studying them
> > now.
> >
> > I am prepping for a major rebuild of my 91 Civic's
> > suspension.
> >
> >

 

I usually just use a hammer for a few sharp blows on the side of the
joint which ususally dislodges it.

JT




John wrote:
>
> The cheap ones are not the best and easiest to use but they to get the job
> done. I'd rather use a cheap one like this rather than banging on the LCA to
> get the ball joint out.
>
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:F7u0g.3748$BS2.2631@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> > I would like to get a decent ball joint lifter tool for
> > under $30. Tegger's site
> > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html describes
> > several. I am aiming for the second category. Here are two
> > in that category:
> >
> >
> http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...reId=10101&Pr=
> p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2004158&TID=100&TID=100&pr oductId=2004158&catalogId=
> 10101
> >
> > http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-61900.html
> >
> > Both the separating tools at the above link seem to be
> > "single stage" whereas the ones at Tegger's site are what I
> > think are called "two stage." The single stage ones tend to
> > be around one-fourth the price of the two stage ones. Will I
> > get a lot more for the money with the two stage ones? Seems
> > like the single stage one sure prevail when googling for
> > "ball joint lifter."
> >
> > Also, do I need a "ball joint press kit" of some kind for
> > putting the ball joints back together? My Chilton's manual
> > isn't too good on these points. The factory service manuals
> > at the UK site seem a little better and I'm studying them
> > now.
> >
> > I am prepping for a major rebuild of my 91 Civic's
> > suspension.
> >
> >

 

Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote in news:4442DA4B.9368F1A3@spam.now:

> Elle wrote:
>>
>> I would like to get a decent ball joint lifter tool
>
> I have one of these
> http://www.asttool.com/html/cars/general/129_1.html It works well and
> it's very dependable.
>
> With any ball joint press tool such as this, there's one thing that
> you have to be careful with. That is, it's possible to put enough
> force on the end of the ball joint stud before it releases such that
> the end of the stud collapses due to the holes drilled in it for the
> cotter key. To avoid this scenario, put a nut on the end of the ball
> joint stud such that the end of the nut is flush with the end of the
> ball joint stud. The nut will then provide support via the stud
> threads and prevent the end of the stud from collapsing.
>



Flip the castle nut upside down and reinstall it. Same result.


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote in news:4442DA4B.9368F1A3@spam.now:

> Elle wrote:
>>
>> I would like to get a decent ball joint lifter tool
>
> I have one of these
> http://www.asttool.com/html/cars/general/129_1.html It works well and
> it's very dependable.
>
> With any ball joint press tool such as this, there's one thing that
> you have to be careful with. That is, it's possible to put enough
> force on the end of the ball joint stud before it releases such that
> the end of the stud collapses due to the holes drilled in it for the
> cotter key. To avoid this scenario, put a nut on the end of the ball
> joint stud such that the end of the nut is flush with the end of the
> ball joint stud. The nut will then provide support via the stud
> threads and prevent the end of the stud from collapsing.
>



Flip the castle nut upside down and reinstall it. Same result.


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

Elle wrote:
>That's the kind of thing I need to know. Thanks, John.
>
>> The cheap ones are not the best and easiest to use but
>> they to get the job
>> done. I'd rather use a cheap one like this rather than
>> banging on the LCA to
>> get the ball joint out.


Yeah, I've been using "the cheap-looking piece of crap" tool from JC Whitney
for years and it works like a charm. In fact, I used it to remove the upper
balljoint and outer tie rod ends(to replace the aging dust boots) on my '98
CRV several weeks ago.

BTW, here's a little tip on how to keep the pin from spinning when you're
trying to put the nut back on. I use one of my vise grip wrenches to hold the
two pieces together(which puts pressure on the joint) and that holds the pin
steady.

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200604/1

 

Elle wrote:
>That's the kind of thing I need to know. Thanks, John.
>
>> The cheap ones are not the best and easiest to use but
>> they to get the job
>> done. I'd rather use a cheap one like this rather than
>> banging on the LCA to
>> get the ball joint out.


Yeah, I've been using "the cheap-looking piece of crap" tool from JC Whitney
for years and it works like a charm. In fact, I used it to remove the upper
balljoint and outer tie rod ends(to replace the aging dust boots) on my '98
CRV several weeks ago.

BTW, here's a little tip on how to keep the pin from spinning when you're
trying to put the nut back on. I use one of my vise grip wrenches to hold the
two pieces together(which puts pressure on the joint) and that holds the pin
steady.

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200604/1

 

"Headknocker via CarKB.com" <u18602@uwe> wrote
> Yeah, I've been using "the cheap-looking piece of crap"
> tool from JC Whitney
> for years and it works like a charm. In fact, I used it to
> remove the upper
> balljoint and outer tie rod ends(to replace the aging dust
> boots) on my '98
> CRV several weeks ago.
>
> BTW, here's a little tip on how to keep the pin from
> spinning when you're
> trying to put the nut back on. I use one of my vise grip
> wrenches to hold the
> two pieces together(which puts pressure on the joint) and
> that holds the pin
> steady.

Headknocker and Tegger: Your tips are now in my notes. Thank
you.

Updates:

Canada's Princess Auto--Does not ship to U.S.

Tool by Colorado based Assenmacher--$70, plus shipping.
Order by phone.

 

"Headknocker via CarKB.com" <u18602@uwe> wrote
> Yeah, I've been using "the cheap-looking piece of crap"
> tool from JC Whitney
> for years and it works like a charm. In fact, I used it to
> remove the upper
> balljoint and outer tie rod ends(to replace the aging dust
> boots) on my '98
> CRV several weeks ago.
>
> BTW, here's a little tip on how to keep the pin from
> spinning when you're
> trying to put the nut back on. I use one of my vise grip
> wrenches to hold the
> two pieces together(which puts pressure on the joint) and
> that holds the pin
> steady.

Headknocker and Tegger: Your tips are now in my notes. Thank
you.

Updates:

Canada's Princess Auto--Does not ship to U.S.

Tool by Colorado based Assenmacher--$70, plus shipping.
Order by phone.

 

I bought a tool like those sold at Princess Auto - it worked very
well. I ground it out a bit with a die grinder to make sure it
wouldn't tear the boots on my Legend, and it still had more than
enough strength. Another source for these is a tool company that sells
them on eBay for $29. I figured this would be easier than dealing with
an international order. The URL for the tool is below:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/J-172...QQcmdZViewItem

 

I bought a tool like those sold at Princess Auto - it worked very
well. I ground it out a bit with a die grinder to make sure it
wouldn't tear the boots on my Legend, and it still had more than
enough strength. Another source for these is a tool company that sells
them on eBay for $29. I figured this would be easier than dealing with
an international order. The URL for the tool is below:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/J-172...QQcmdZViewItem

 

Yesterday I thought I'd scoured e-bay. Thanks, this tool may
be the one!

This morning I ordered new front suspension spring coils and
stabilizer links and stabilizer bushings from the "Team
Honda" in Colorado, www.cheapesthondaparts.com , which
Tegger's site references. If all goes well with Team Honda,
I will add it to my site. Team Honda had the best price,
taking into account shipping: OEM coils at $48.25 each, with
a shipping charge of 10%. List prices are similar to
Majestic, but Majestic's shipping charges are more (at least
for my location). Majestic does now have an online shipping
estimator.

Then I'm onto the ball joints. One step at a time...

"Ryan Biggs" <ryan@geo.utexas.edu> wrote
>I bought a tool like those sold at Princess Auto - it
>worked very
> well. I ground it out a bit with a die grinder to make
> sure it
> wouldn't tear the boots on my Legend, and it still had
> more than
> enough strength. Another source for these is a tool
> company that sells
> them on eBay for $29. I figured this would be easier than
> dealing with
> an international order. The URL for the tool is below:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/J-172...QQcmdZViewItem