I would like to get a decent ball joint lifter tool for
under $30. Tegger's site
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html describes
several. I am aiming for the second category. Here are two
in that category:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...atalogId=10101

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-61900.html

Both the separating tools at the above link seem to be
"single stage" whereas the ones at Tegger's site are what I
think are called "two stage." The single stage ones tend to
be around one-fourth the price of the two stage ones. Will I
get a lot more for the money with the two stage ones? Seems
like the single stage one sure prevail when googling for
"ball joint lifter."

Also, do I need a "ball joint press kit" of some kind for
putting the ball joints back together? My Chilton's manual
isn't too good on these points. The factory service manuals
at the UK site seem a little better and I'm studying them
now.

I am prepping for a major rebuild of my 91 Civic's
suspension.

 

Elle wrote:
>
> I would like to get a decent ball joint lifter tool for
> under $30. Tegger's site
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html describes
> several. I am aiming for the second category. Here are two
> in that category:
>
> http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...atalogId=10101
>
> http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-61900.html
>
> Both the separating tools at the above link seem to be
> "single stage" whereas the ones at Tegger's site are what I
> think are called "two stage." The single stage ones tend to
> be around one-fourth the price of the two stage ones. Will I
> get a lot more for the money with the two stage ones? Seems
> like the single stage one sure prevail when googling for
> "ball joint lifter."
>
> Also, do I need a "ball joint press kit" of some kind for
> putting the ball joints back together? My Chilton's manual
> isn't too good on these points. The factory service manuals
> at the UK site seem a little better and I'm studying them
> now.
>
> I am prepping for a major rebuild of my 91 Civic's
> suspension.


==================================

MAN, those are cheap looking crap. I only paid CAN $18.00 (on sale at
Princess Auto) for the one pictured on tegger's site. (last picture)

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html

That's about $15 US. Notice there are two hinge points too.

'Curly'

 

Elle wrote:
>
> I would like to get a decent ball joint lifter tool for
> under $30. Tegger's site
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html describes
> several. I am aiming for the second category. Here are two
> in that category:
>
> http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...atalogId=10101
>
> http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-61900.html
>
> Both the separating tools at the above link seem to be
> "single stage" whereas the ones at Tegger's site are what I
> think are called "two stage." The single stage ones tend to
> be around one-fourth the price of the two stage ones. Will I
> get a lot more for the money with the two stage ones? Seems
> like the single stage one sure prevail when googling for
> "ball joint lifter."
>
> Also, do I need a "ball joint press kit" of some kind for
> putting the ball joints back together? My Chilton's manual
> isn't too good on these points. The factory service manuals
> at the UK site seem a little better and I'm studying them
> now.
>
> I am prepping for a major rebuild of my 91 Civic's
> suspension.


==================================

MAN, those are cheap looking crap. I only paid CAN $18.00 (on sale at
Princess Auto) for the one pictured on tegger's site. (last picture)

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html

That's about $15 US. Notice there are two hinge points too.

'Curly'

 

"'Curly Q. Links'" <motsco__@interbaun.com> wrote
> MAN, those are cheap looking crap. I only paid CAN $18.00
> (on sale at
> Princess Auto) for the one pictured on tegger's site.
> (last picture)
>
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html

I was looking for this at the Princess Auto site and
couldn't turn it up, even after downloading the two
catalogue sections (Automotive and "Shop and Garage").

I'll try their 800 number tomorrow and see if they even sell
to people in the U.S.

 

"'Curly Q. Links'" <motsco__@interbaun.com> wrote
> MAN, those are cheap looking crap. I only paid CAN $18.00
> (on sale at
> Princess Auto) for the one pictured on tegger's site.
> (last picture)
>
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html

I was looking for this at the Princess Auto site and
couldn't turn it up, even after downloading the two
catalogue sections (Automotive and "Shop and Garage").

I'll try their 800 number tomorrow and see if they even sell
to people in the U.S.

 

"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:F7u0g.3748$BS2.2631@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>I would like to get a decent ball joint lifter tool for under $30. Tegger's
>site http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html describes several. I am
>aiming for the second category. Here are two in that category:
>
> http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...atalogId=10101
>
> http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-61900.html
>
> Both the separating tools at the above link seem to be "single stage"
> whereas the ones at Tegger's site are what I think are called "two stage."
> The single stage ones tend to be around one-fourth the price of the two
> stage ones. Will I get a lot more for the money with the two stage ones?
> Seems like the single stage one sure prevail when googling for "ball joint
> lifter."
>
> Also, do I need a "ball joint press kit" of some kind for putting the ball
> joints back together? My Chilton's manual isn't too good on these points.
> The factory service manuals at the UK site seem a little better and I'm
> studying them now.
>
> I am prepping for a major rebuild of my 91 Civic's suspension.
>
I spent twice as much as you are looking at, but it is a single stage much
like the less expensive ones. I haven't used it yet but my son said it
worked like a charm. I think the lower priced ones would work as well - this
one just had the advantage of being adjustable for small or large ball
joints. Unless you're going to work on trucks I doubt that really matters to
you.

Putting the joint back together is simple enough, but it really helps if the
taper pin and socket are free of oil. (Don't ask me how I know!) If there is
oil the pin tends to rotate before it is tight, making it very difficult to
either tighten or loosen the nut. Proper torque on the nut is important,
since that determines the wedginess (technical term).

Mike

 

"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:F7u0g.3748$BS2.2631@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>I would like to get a decent ball joint lifter tool for under $30. Tegger's
>site http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html describes several. I am
>aiming for the second category. Here are two in that category:
>
> http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...atalogId=10101
>
> http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-61900.html
>
> Both the separating tools at the above link seem to be "single stage"
> whereas the ones at Tegger's site are what I think are called "two stage."
> The single stage ones tend to be around one-fourth the price of the two
> stage ones. Will I get a lot more for the money with the two stage ones?
> Seems like the single stage one sure prevail when googling for "ball joint
> lifter."
>
> Also, do I need a "ball joint press kit" of some kind for putting the ball
> joints back together? My Chilton's manual isn't too good on these points.
> The factory service manuals at the UK site seem a little better and I'm
> studying them now.
>
> I am prepping for a major rebuild of my 91 Civic's suspension.
>
I spent twice as much as you are looking at, but it is a single stage much
like the less expensive ones. I haven't used it yet but my son said it
worked like a charm. I think the lower priced ones would work as well - this
one just had the advantage of being adjustable for small or large ball
joints. Unless you're going to work on trucks I doubt that really matters to
you.

Putting the joint back together is simple enough, but it really helps if the
taper pin and socket are free of oil. (Don't ask me how I know!) If there is
oil the pin tends to rotate before it is tight, making it very difficult to
either tighten or loosen the nut. Proper torque on the nut is important,
since that determines the wedginess (technical term).

Mike

 

"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote
> I spent twice as much as you are looking at, but it is a
> single stage much like the less expensive ones. I haven't
> used it yet but my son said it worked like a charm. I
> think the lower priced ones would work as well - this one
> just had the advantage of being adjustable for small or
> large ball joints. Unless you're going to work on trucks I
> doubt that really matters to you.
>
> Putting the joint back together is simple enough, but it
> really helps if the taper pin and socket are free of oil.
> (Don't ask me how I know!) If there is oil the pin tends
> to rotate before it is tight, making it very difficult to
> either tighten or loosen the nut. Proper torque on the nut
> is important, since that determines the wedginess
> (technical term).

Mike, thanks! I'll put this in my notes.

 

"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote
> I spent twice as much as you are looking at, but it is a
> single stage much like the less expensive ones. I haven't
> used it yet but my son said it worked like a charm. I
> think the lower priced ones would work as well - this one
> just had the advantage of being adjustable for small or
> large ball joints. Unless you're going to work on trucks I
> doubt that really matters to you.
>
> Putting the joint back together is simple enough, but it
> really helps if the taper pin and socket are free of oil.
> (Don't ask me how I know!) If there is oil the pin tends
> to rotate before it is tight, making it very difficult to
> either tighten or loosen the nut. Proper torque on the nut
> is important, since that determines the wedginess
> (technical term).

Mike, thanks! I'll put this in my notes.

 

Elle wrote:
>
> I would like to get a decent ball joint lifter tool

I have one of these http://www.asttool.com/html/cars/general/129_1.html
It works well and it's very dependable.

With any ball joint press tool such as this, there's one thing that you have
to be careful with. That is, it's possible to put enough force on the end
of the ball joint stud before it releases such that the end of the stud
collapses due to the holes drilled in it for the cotter key. To avoid this
scenario, put a nut on the end of the ball joint stud such that the end of
the nut is flush with the end of the ball joint stud. The nut will then
provide support via the stud threads and prevent the end of the stud from
collapsing.

Eric

 

Elle wrote:
>
> I would like to get a decent ball joint lifter tool

I have one of these http://www.asttool.com/html/cars/general/129_1.html
It works well and it's very dependable.

With any ball joint press tool such as this, there's one thing that you have
to be careful with. That is, it's possible to put enough force on the end
of the ball joint stud before it releases such that the end of the stud
collapses due to the holes drilled in it for the cotter key. To avoid this
scenario, put a nut on the end of the ball joint stud such that the end of
the nut is flush with the end of the ball joint stud. The nut will then
provide support via the stud threads and prevent the end of the stud from
collapsing.

Eric

 

"Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote
> I have one of these
> http://www.asttool.com/html/cars/general/129_1.html
> It works well and it's very dependable.

I'll call Assenmacher tomorrow and see how much they want
for this. I couldn't find the price at the site.

> With any ball joint press tool such as this, there's one
> thing that you have
> to be careful with. That is, it's possible to put enough
> force on the end
> of the ball joint stud before it releases such that the
> end of the stud
> collapses due to the holes drilled in it for the cotter
> key. To avoid this
> scenario, put a nut on the end of the ball joint stud such
> that the end of
> the nut is flush with the end of the ball joint stud. The
> nut will then
> provide support via the stud threads and prevent the end
> of the stud from
> collapsing.

Eric, thanks much. I put this in my notes.

 

"Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote
> I have one of these
> http://www.asttool.com/html/cars/general/129_1.html
> It works well and it's very dependable.

I'll call Assenmacher tomorrow and see how much they want
for this. I couldn't find the price at the site.

> With any ball joint press tool such as this, there's one
> thing that you have
> to be careful with. That is, it's possible to put enough
> force on the end
> of the ball joint stud before it releases such that the
> end of the stud
> collapses due to the holes drilled in it for the cotter
> key. To avoid this
> scenario, put a nut on the end of the ball joint stud such
> that the end of
> the nut is flush with the end of the ball joint stud. The
> nut will then
> provide support via the stud threads and prevent the end
> of the stud from
> collapsing.

Eric, thanks much. I put this in my notes.

 

That's the kind of thing I need to know. Thanks, John.

"John" <welcomehowcome@hotmail.com> wrote
> The cheap ones are not the best and easiest to use but
> they to get the job
> done. I'd rather use a cheap one like this rather than
> banging on the LCA to
> get the ball joint out.

 

That's the kind of thing I need to know. Thanks, John.

"John" <welcomehowcome@hotmail.com> wrote
> The cheap ones are not the best and easiest to use but
> they to get the job
> done. I'd rather use a cheap one like this rather than
> banging on the LCA to
> get the ball joint out.