Jim Yanik wrote:
>
> I'm sorry,I was thinking of my Integra,and the Haynes manual says -to
> replace the lower BJ,you remove the whole steering knuckle and take to to
> a shop to have a new BJ pressed in,and the UPPER BJ is -not replaceable-;
> you must replace the whole upper control wishbone.
>
> I was wondering if anyone offered a kit or service for replacing that
> upper BJ without replacing the upper wishbone.
>
> since you were working on your suspension ,I thought you or other readers
> might know.

I've replaced an upper ball joint on my '88 Civic. The suspension is very
similar to the Integra. I replaced the whole upper arm. It's pretty easy.
If I remember correctly, the upper ball joint is welded into the upper arm
and it's not worth the hassle trying to replace it as a separate unit.

Eric

 

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote
>> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote
>>> According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not
>>> replaceable,and the
>>> entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there
>>> any
>>> method of
>>> replacing the BJ in the original control arm?
>>
>> I should have clarified that my post above concerns the
>> lower control arm, which is bolted via the castle nut and
>> ball joint stud to the knuckle... The knuckle for my
>> Civic
>> contains the lower ball joint. The UK site's Civic CRX
>> manual has a procedure for replacing just the lower ball
>> joint. The first step is to remove the knuckle...
>>
>> Not sure what you're asking, otherwise.
>
> I'm sorry,I was thinking of my Integra,and the Haynes
> manual says -to
> replace the lower BJ,you remove the whole steering knuckle
> and take to to a
> shop to have a new BJ pressed in,and the UPPER BJ is -not
> replaceable-;you
> must replace the whole upper control wishbone.

All that's the same for my 91 Civic, except the service
manual (at least for the Civic CRX) describes the process
for replacing the lower BJ. Three special tools are listed.
Maybe the special tools are one reason why Haynes directs
people to a shop.

> I was wondering if anyone offered a kit or service for
> replacing that upper
> BJ without replacing the upper wishbone.

My recollection from my reading is that it's still customary
(or mandatory) to replace the whole upper arm to get a new
upper ball joint.

> since you were working on your suspension ,I thought you
> or other readers
> might know.
>
>
>> I don't plan to
>> replace the lower ball joint at this time. I am going to
>> install new lower control arm bushings within the next
>> week
>> (God willing) and see if this remedies my car's
>> un-levelness
>> from pass. side to dr. side.
>
>
> Have you tried two new springs yet?
> ISTR you were going to swap the unequal height
> springs;evidently that
> failed.

Yes to all. Here are the differences in car heights, right
and left sides, through my investigation:

Before doing anything: 3/4-inch
Old springs swapped: 3/8-inch
New springs: 1/2-inch.

The old springs uncompressed had a height difference of
1/4-inch, so there is some consistency here.

The new springs uncompressed were actually a little shorter
than the old ones. As expected, the car does sit a little
lower, overall, with the new springs.

I suspect the bushings are behind the 1/2-inch difference at
this point.

I won't quibble if I get the right and left sides within
1/4-inch. (I wonder if there's a spec on that.)

I am measuring from the ground to the top of the front wheel
wells here.

 

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote
>> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote
>>> According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not
>>> replaceable,and the
>>> entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there
>>> any
>>> method of
>>> replacing the BJ in the original control arm?
>>
>> I should have clarified that my post above concerns the
>> lower control arm, which is bolted via the castle nut and
>> ball joint stud to the knuckle... The knuckle for my
>> Civic
>> contains the lower ball joint. The UK site's Civic CRX
>> manual has a procedure for replacing just the lower ball
>> joint. The first step is to remove the knuckle...
>>
>> Not sure what you're asking, otherwise.
>
> I'm sorry,I was thinking of my Integra,and the Haynes
> manual says -to
> replace the lower BJ,you remove the whole steering knuckle
> and take to to a
> shop to have a new BJ pressed in,and the UPPER BJ is -not
> replaceable-;you
> must replace the whole upper control wishbone.

All that's the same for my 91 Civic, except the service
manual (at least for the Civic CRX) describes the process
for replacing the lower BJ. Three special tools are listed.
Maybe the special tools are one reason why Haynes directs
people to a shop.

> I was wondering if anyone offered a kit or service for
> replacing that upper
> BJ without replacing the upper wishbone.

My recollection from my reading is that it's still customary
(or mandatory) to replace the whole upper arm to get a new
upper ball joint.

> since you were working on your suspension ,I thought you
> or other readers
> might know.
>
>
>> I don't plan to
>> replace the lower ball joint at this time. I am going to
>> install new lower control arm bushings within the next
>> week
>> (God willing) and see if this remedies my car's
>> un-levelness
>> from pass. side to dr. side.
>
>
> Have you tried two new springs yet?
> ISTR you were going to swap the unequal height
> springs;evidently that
> failed.

Yes to all. Here are the differences in car heights, right
and left sides, through my investigation:

Before doing anything: 3/4-inch
Old springs swapped: 3/8-inch
New springs: 1/2-inch.

The old springs uncompressed had a height difference of
1/4-inch, so there is some consistency here.

The new springs uncompressed were actually a little shorter
than the old ones. As expected, the car does sit a little
lower, overall, with the new springs.

I suspect the bushings are behind the 1/2-inch difference at
this point.

I won't quibble if I get the right and left sides within
1/4-inch. (I wonder if there's a spec on that.)

I am measuring from the ground to the top of the front wheel
wells here.

 

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote
>> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote
>>> According to the Haynes manual,the upper BJ is not
>>> replaceable,and the
>>> entire control arm is supposed to be replaced;is there
>>> any
>>> method of
>>> replacing the BJ in the original control arm?
>>
>> I should have clarified that my post above concerns the
>> lower control arm, which is bolted via the castle nut and
>> ball joint stud to the knuckle... The knuckle for my
>> Civic
>> contains the lower ball joint. The UK site's Civic CRX
>> manual has a procedure for replacing just the lower ball
>> joint. The first step is to remove the knuckle...
>>
>> Not sure what you're asking, otherwise.
>
> I'm sorry,I was thinking of my Integra,and the Haynes
> manual says -to
> replace the lower BJ,you remove the whole steering knuckle
> and take to to a
> shop to have a new BJ pressed in,and the UPPER BJ is -not
> replaceable-;you
> must replace the whole upper control wishbone.

All that's the same for my 91 Civic, except the service
manual (at least for the Civic CRX) describes the process
for replacing the lower BJ. Three special tools are listed.
Maybe the special tools are one reason why Haynes directs
people to a shop.

> I was wondering if anyone offered a kit or service for
> replacing that upper
> BJ without replacing the upper wishbone.

My recollection from my reading is that it's still customary
(or mandatory) to replace the whole upper arm to get a new
upper ball joint.

> since you were working on your suspension ,I thought you
> or other readers
> might know.
>
>
>> I don't plan to
>> replace the lower ball joint at this time. I am going to
>> install new lower control arm bushings within the next
>> week
>> (God willing) and see if this remedies my car's
>> un-levelness
>> from pass. side to dr. side.
>
>
> Have you tried two new springs yet?
> ISTR you were going to swap the unequal height
> springs;evidently that
> failed.

Yes to all. Here are the differences in car heights, right
and left sides, through my investigation:

Before doing anything: 3/4-inch
Old springs swapped: 3/8-inch
New springs: 1/2-inch.

The old springs uncompressed had a height difference of
1/4-inch, so there is some consistency here.

The new springs uncompressed were actually a little shorter
than the old ones. As expected, the car does sit a little
lower, overall, with the new springs.

I suspect the bushings are behind the 1/2-inch difference at
this point.

I won't quibble if I get the right and left sides within
1/4-inch. (I wonder if there's a spec on that.)

I am measuring from the ground to the top of the front wheel
wells here.

 

"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:sfSag.443$SX5.305@newsread1.news.pas.earthlin k.net:


>
> Before doing anything: 3/4-inch
> Old springs swapped: 3/8-inch
> New springs: 1/2-inch.
>
> The old springs uncompressed had a height difference of
> 1/4-inch, so there is some consistency here.
>
> The new springs uncompressed were actually a little shorter
> than the old ones. As expected, the car does sit a little
> lower, overall, with the new springs.
>
> I suspect the bushings are behind the 1/2-inch difference at
> this point.
>
> I won't quibble if I get the right and left sides within
> 1/4-inch. (I wonder if there's a spec on that.)



The factory manual for my Integra indicates NO specs at all for ride
height.

My car currently has half-inch difference driver's to passenger's side.
When new, both front springs already had more than 1/4" difference (both
front springs were replaced about 9 years ago).



>
> I am measuring from the ground to the top of the front wheel
> wells here.
>
>


To determine ride height, you're supposed to measure fron the wheel well to
the center of the wheel. Measuring ground-up introduces the tire as a
variable.

You must also be certain that the ground is actually level, and you'd be
surprised how little pavement is *really and truly* level. When I check, I
jack up the necessary wheels only enough to shim under the tires with old
books. I use a line and a spirit level to level the car.

--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:sfSag.443$SX5.305@newsread1.news.pas.earthlin k.net:


>
> Before doing anything: 3/4-inch
> Old springs swapped: 3/8-inch
> New springs: 1/2-inch.
>
> The old springs uncompressed had a height difference of
> 1/4-inch, so there is some consistency here.
>
> The new springs uncompressed were actually a little shorter
> than the old ones. As expected, the car does sit a little
> lower, overall, with the new springs.
>
> I suspect the bushings are behind the 1/2-inch difference at
> this point.
>
> I won't quibble if I get the right and left sides within
> 1/4-inch. (I wonder if there's a spec on that.)



The factory manual for my Integra indicates NO specs at all for ride
height.

My car currently has half-inch difference driver's to passenger's side.
When new, both front springs already had more than 1/4" difference (both
front springs were replaced about 9 years ago).



>
> I am measuring from the ground to the top of the front wheel
> wells here.
>
>


To determine ride height, you're supposed to measure fron the wheel well to
the center of the wheel. Measuring ground-up introduces the tire as a
variable.

You must also be certain that the ground is actually level, and you'd be
surprised how little pavement is *really and truly* level. When I check, I
jack up the necessary wheels only enough to shim under the tires with old
books. I use a line and a spirit level to level the car.

--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:sfSag.443$SX5.305@newsread1.news.pas.earthlin k.net:


>
> Before doing anything: 3/4-inch
> Old springs swapped: 3/8-inch
> New springs: 1/2-inch.
>
> The old springs uncompressed had a height difference of
> 1/4-inch, so there is some consistency here.
>
> The new springs uncompressed were actually a little shorter
> than the old ones. As expected, the car does sit a little
> lower, overall, with the new springs.
>
> I suspect the bushings are behind the 1/2-inch difference at
> this point.
>
> I won't quibble if I get the right and left sides within
> 1/4-inch. (I wonder if there's a spec on that.)



The factory manual for my Integra indicates NO specs at all for ride
height.

My car currently has half-inch difference driver's to passenger's side.
When new, both front springs already had more than 1/4" difference (both
front springs were replaced about 9 years ago).



>
> I am measuring from the ground to the top of the front wheel
> wells here.
>
>


To determine ride height, you're supposed to measure fron the wheel well to
the center of the wheel. Measuring ground-up introduces the tire as a
variable.

You must also be certain that the ground is actually level, and you'd be
surprised how little pavement is *really and truly* level. When I check, I
jack up the necessary wheels only enough to shim under the tires with old
books. I use a line and a spirit level to level the car.

--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

"TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote
>> Before doing anything: 3/4-inch
>> Old springs swapped: 3/8-inch
>> New springs: 1/2-inch.
>>
>> The old springs uncompressed had a height difference of
>> 1/4-inch, so there is some consistency here.
>>
>> The new springs uncompressed were actually a little
>> shorter
>> than the old ones. As expected, the car does sit a little
>> lower, overall, with the new springs.
>>
>> I suspect the bushings are behind the 1/2-inch difference
>> at
>> this point.
>>
>> I won't quibble if I get the right and left sides within
>> 1/4-inch. (I wonder if there's a spec on that.)
>
>
>
> The factory manual for my Integra indicates NO specs at
> all for ride
> height.
>
> My car currently has half-inch difference driver's to
> passenger's side.
> When new, both front springs already had more than 1/4"
> difference (both
> front springs were replaced about 9 years ago).
>
>
>
>>
>> I am measuring from the ground to the top of the front
>> wheel
>> wells here.
>>
>>
>
>
> To determine ride height, you're supposed to measure fron
> the wheel well to
> the center of the wheel. Measuring ground-up introduces
> the tire as a
> variable.
>
> You must also be certain that the ground is actually
> level, and you'd be
> surprised how little pavement is *really and truly* level.
> When I check, I
> jack up the necessary wheels only enough to shim under the
> tires with old
> books. I use a line and a spirit level to level the car.

Thanks for the tips. I am very careful about tire pressure,
for one thing.

Right now, my main interest is getting the castle nut off
and my new bushings installed, if only to improve handling.

At this point I am trying to cut the castle nut off with my
die grinder, a nut splitter and anything else I can find. I
haven't read reports of anyone else having this sort of
problem. I guess the fact that the other day before trying
to get the castle nut off, I unwittingly (despite Michael's
warning) PB Blastered the control arm tapered hole didn't
help. I brake-cleanered the taper several times today and
tried again and again. I couldn't get a C-clamp or vise grip
on the ball joint and arm to wedge the stud into a fixed
position. No luck putting all the weight on the control arm,
using a jack beneath it.

About mid-day, I started trying to cut the castle nut off
without damaging the stud threads.

So it goes. Very discouraging...

 

"TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote
>> Before doing anything: 3/4-inch
>> Old springs swapped: 3/8-inch
>> New springs: 1/2-inch.
>>
>> The old springs uncompressed had a height difference of
>> 1/4-inch, so there is some consistency here.
>>
>> The new springs uncompressed were actually a little
>> shorter
>> than the old ones. As expected, the car does sit a little
>> lower, overall, with the new springs.
>>
>> I suspect the bushings are behind the 1/2-inch difference
>> at
>> this point.
>>
>> I won't quibble if I get the right and left sides within
>> 1/4-inch. (I wonder if there's a spec on that.)
>
>
>
> The factory manual for my Integra indicates NO specs at
> all for ride
> height.
>
> My car currently has half-inch difference driver's to
> passenger's side.
> When new, both front springs already had more than 1/4"
> difference (both
> front springs were replaced about 9 years ago).
>
>
>
>>
>> I am measuring from the ground to the top of the front
>> wheel
>> wells here.
>>
>>
>
>
> To determine ride height, you're supposed to measure fron
> the wheel well to
> the center of the wheel. Measuring ground-up introduces
> the tire as a
> variable.
>
> You must also be certain that the ground is actually
> level, and you'd be
> surprised how little pavement is *really and truly* level.
> When I check, I
> jack up the necessary wheels only enough to shim under the
> tires with old
> books. I use a line and a spirit level to level the car.

Thanks for the tips. I am very careful about tire pressure,
for one thing.

Right now, my main interest is getting the castle nut off
and my new bushings installed, if only to improve handling.

At this point I am trying to cut the castle nut off with my
die grinder, a nut splitter and anything else I can find. I
haven't read reports of anyone else having this sort of
problem. I guess the fact that the other day before trying
to get the castle nut off, I unwittingly (despite Michael's
warning) PB Blastered the control arm tapered hole didn't
help. I brake-cleanered the taper several times today and
tried again and again. I couldn't get a C-clamp or vise grip
on the ball joint and arm to wedge the stud into a fixed
position. No luck putting all the weight on the control arm,
using a jack beneath it.

About mid-day, I started trying to cut the castle nut off
without damaging the stud threads.

So it goes. Very discouraging...

 

"TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote
>> Before doing anything: 3/4-inch
>> Old springs swapped: 3/8-inch
>> New springs: 1/2-inch.
>>
>> The old springs uncompressed had a height difference of
>> 1/4-inch, so there is some consistency here.
>>
>> The new springs uncompressed were actually a little
>> shorter
>> than the old ones. As expected, the car does sit a little
>> lower, overall, with the new springs.
>>
>> I suspect the bushings are behind the 1/2-inch difference
>> at
>> this point.
>>
>> I won't quibble if I get the right and left sides within
>> 1/4-inch. (I wonder if there's a spec on that.)
>
>
>
> The factory manual for my Integra indicates NO specs at
> all for ride
> height.
>
> My car currently has half-inch difference driver's to
> passenger's side.
> When new, both front springs already had more than 1/4"
> difference (both
> front springs were replaced about 9 years ago).
>
>
>
>>
>> I am measuring from the ground to the top of the front
>> wheel
>> wells here.
>>
>>
>
>
> To determine ride height, you're supposed to measure fron
> the wheel well to
> the center of the wheel. Measuring ground-up introduces
> the tire as a
> variable.
>
> You must also be certain that the ground is actually
> level, and you'd be
> surprised how little pavement is *really and truly* level.
> When I check, I
> jack up the necessary wheels only enough to shim under the
> tires with old
> books. I use a line and a spirit level to level the car.

Thanks for the tips. I am very careful about tire pressure,
for one thing.

Right now, my main interest is getting the castle nut off
and my new bushings installed, if only to improve handling.

At this point I am trying to cut the castle nut off with my
die grinder, a nut splitter and anything else I can find. I
haven't read reports of anyone else having this sort of
problem. I guess the fact that the other day before trying
to get the castle nut off, I unwittingly (despite Michael's
warning) PB Blastered the control arm tapered hole didn't
help. I brake-cleanered the taper several times today and
tried again and again. I couldn't get a C-clamp or vise grip
on the ball joint and arm to wedge the stud into a fixed
position. No luck putting all the weight on the control arm,
using a jack beneath it.

About mid-day, I started trying to cut the castle nut off
without damaging the stud threads.

So it goes. Very discouraging...

 

"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:eD6bg.149$K71.18@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink .net:


>
> Right now, my main interest is getting the castle nut off
> and my new bushings installed, if only to improve handling.
>
> At this point I am trying to cut the castle nut off with my
> die grinder, a nut splitter and anything else I can find.



A suggestion: Use the die grinder to cut off one side of the nut. Don't go
deep enough to actually get down to the ball-joint stud threads, just
enough to get very, very close.

The heat and vibration may just be enough to shock it loose so you can
wrench it off.


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:eD6bg.149$K71.18@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink .net:


>
> Right now, my main interest is getting the castle nut off
> and my new bushings installed, if only to improve handling.
>
> At this point I am trying to cut the castle nut off with my
> die grinder, a nut splitter and anything else I can find.



A suggestion: Use the die grinder to cut off one side of the nut. Don't go
deep enough to actually get down to the ball-joint stud threads, just
enough to get very, very close.

The heat and vibration may just be enough to shock it loose so you can
wrench it off.


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:eD6bg.149$K71.18@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink .net:


>
> Right now, my main interest is getting the castle nut off
> and my new bushings installed, if only to improve handling.
>
> At this point I am trying to cut the castle nut off with my
> die grinder, a nut splitter and anything else I can find.



A suggestion: Use the die grinder to cut off one side of the nut. Don't go
deep enough to actually get down to the ball-joint stud threads, just
enough to get very, very close.

The heat and vibration may just be enough to shock it loose so you can
wrench it off.


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:eD6bg.149$K71.18@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink .net:

> "TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote
>> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote
>>> Before doing anything: 3/4-inch
>>> Old springs swapped: 3/8-inch
>>> New springs: 1/2-inch.
>>>
>>> The old springs uncompressed had a height difference of
>>> 1/4-inch, so there is some consistency here.
>>>
>>> The new springs uncompressed were actually a little
>>> shorter
>>> than the old ones. As expected, the car does sit a little
>>> lower, overall, with the new springs.
>>>
>>> I suspect the bushings are behind the 1/2-inch difference
>>> at
>>> this point.
>>>
>>> I won't quibble if I get the right and left sides within
>>> 1/4-inch. (I wonder if there's a spec on that.)
>>
>>
>>
>> The factory manual for my Integra indicates NO specs at
>> all for ride
>> height.
>>
>> My car currently has half-inch difference driver's to
>> passenger's side.
>> When new, both front springs already had more than 1/4"
>> difference (both
>> front springs were replaced about 9 years ago).
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>> I am measuring from the ground to the top of the front
>>> wheel
>>> wells here.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> To determine ride height, you're supposed to measure fron
>> the wheel well to
>> the center of the wheel. Measuring ground-up introduces
>> the tire as a
>> variable.
>>
>> You must also be certain that the ground is actually
>> level, and you'd be
>> surprised how little pavement is *really and truly* level.
>> When I check, I
>> jack up the necessary wheels only enough to shim under the
>> tires with old
>> books. I use a line and a spirit level to level the car.
>
> Thanks for the tips. I am very careful about tire pressure,
> for one thing.
>
> Right now, my main interest is getting the castle nut off
> and my new bushings installed, if only to improve handling.
>
> At this point I am trying to cut the castle nut off with my
> die grinder, a nut splitter and anything else I can find. I
> haven't read reports of anyone else having this sort of
> problem. I guess the fact that the other day before trying
> to get the castle nut off, I unwittingly (despite Michael's
> warning) PB Blastered the control arm tapered hole didn't
> help. I brake-cleanered the taper several times today and
> tried again and again. I couldn't get a C-clamp or vise grip
> on the ball joint and arm to wedge the stud into a fixed
> position. No luck putting all the weight on the control arm,
> using a jack beneath it.
>
> About mid-day, I started trying to cut the castle nut off
> without damaging the stud threads.
>
> So it goes. Very discouraging...
>
>
>

Something that occurred to me;cut a SLOT in the BJ stud with a Dremel,and
use a screwdriver to hold it from turning,Or grind a couple of flats on the
end of the stud,and use a wrench to hold.(if there's enough room.)

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:eD6bg.149$K71.18@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink .net:

> "TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote
>> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote
>>> Before doing anything: 3/4-inch
>>> Old springs swapped: 3/8-inch
>>> New springs: 1/2-inch.
>>>
>>> The old springs uncompressed had a height difference of
>>> 1/4-inch, so there is some consistency here.
>>>
>>> The new springs uncompressed were actually a little
>>> shorter
>>> than the old ones. As expected, the car does sit a little
>>> lower, overall, with the new springs.
>>>
>>> I suspect the bushings are behind the 1/2-inch difference
>>> at
>>> this point.
>>>
>>> I won't quibble if I get the right and left sides within
>>> 1/4-inch. (I wonder if there's a spec on that.)
>>
>>
>>
>> The factory manual for my Integra indicates NO specs at
>> all for ride
>> height.
>>
>> My car currently has half-inch difference driver's to
>> passenger's side.
>> When new, both front springs already had more than 1/4"
>> difference (both
>> front springs were replaced about 9 years ago).
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>> I am measuring from the ground to the top of the front
>>> wheel
>>> wells here.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> To determine ride height, you're supposed to measure fron
>> the wheel well to
>> the center of the wheel. Measuring ground-up introduces
>> the tire as a
>> variable.
>>
>> You must also be certain that the ground is actually
>> level, and you'd be
>> surprised how little pavement is *really and truly* level.
>> When I check, I
>> jack up the necessary wheels only enough to shim under the
>> tires with old
>> books. I use a line and a spirit level to level the car.
>
> Thanks for the tips. I am very careful about tire pressure,
> for one thing.
>
> Right now, my main interest is getting the castle nut off
> and my new bushings installed, if only to improve handling.
>
> At this point I am trying to cut the castle nut off with my
> die grinder, a nut splitter and anything else I can find. I
> haven't read reports of anyone else having this sort of
> problem. I guess the fact that the other day before trying
> to get the castle nut off, I unwittingly (despite Michael's
> warning) PB Blastered the control arm tapered hole didn't
> help. I brake-cleanered the taper several times today and
> tried again and again. I couldn't get a C-clamp or vise grip
> on the ball joint and arm to wedge the stud into a fixed
> position. No luck putting all the weight on the control arm,
> using a jack beneath it.
>
> About mid-day, I started trying to cut the castle nut off
> without damaging the stud threads.
>
> So it goes. Very discouraging...
>
>
>

Something that occurred to me;cut a SLOT in the BJ stud with a Dremel,and
use a screwdriver to hold it from turning,Or grind a couple of flats on the
end of the stud,and use a wrench to hold.(if there's enough room.)

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net