Here's an illustrated
> index of the timing belt from the factory service manual.
> http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/m...l/pdf/6-18.pdf


.... odd that they refer to the drive / driven components as pulleys
instead of sprockets.

 

"Ruprect's Law" ??

 

"Ruprect's Law" ??

 

"Ruprect's Law" ??

 

"sharx333" <emil.santos@gmail.com> wrote in
news:1159581830.879389.312200@k70g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:

>
> I'm afraid that's exactly the belt I'm referring to. This model is a
> "domesticated" version of the EX, with basically the same engine
> (D16z6).
>
> I wouldn't even have seen the cracks if the mechanic hadn't pointed it
> out when I was having the tires rotated.

How'd the mechanic see it if there's a cover over it?
What was he doing under the hood while rotating tires?


> When I got home, I removed
> the valve cover and belt cover, and saw the cracks. So this is bad,
> huh? I wonder what could have caused it... I hear these things
> normally last a long time.
>
> Thanks for the replies.
>
>
>
> Eric wrote:
>
>> Are you sure you're referring to the timing belt? Here's an
>> illustrated index of the timing belt from the factory service manual.
>> http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/m...anual/pdf/6-18.
>> pdf The reason I have to ask is that I've never seen a timing belt
>> cracked as badly as you describe. If it was, then it would probably
>> break in very short order and the car would no longer be running.
>> Most timing belts fail well before then become cracked as you have
>> described and that is after they've been in the car >90K miles though
>> some do fail prematurely however that's rare.
>>
>> Eric
>
>



--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

"sharx333" <emil.santos@gmail.com> wrote in
news:1159581830.879389.312200@k70g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:

>
> I'm afraid that's exactly the belt I'm referring to. This model is a
> "domesticated" version of the EX, with basically the same engine
> (D16z6).
>
> I wouldn't even have seen the cracks if the mechanic hadn't pointed it
> out when I was having the tires rotated.

How'd the mechanic see it if there's a cover over it?
What was he doing under the hood while rotating tires?


> When I got home, I removed
> the valve cover and belt cover, and saw the cracks. So this is bad,
> huh? I wonder what could have caused it... I hear these things
> normally last a long time.
>
> Thanks for the replies.
>
>
>
> Eric wrote:
>
>> Are you sure you're referring to the timing belt? Here's an
>> illustrated index of the timing belt from the factory service manual.
>> http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/m...anual/pdf/6-18.
>> pdf The reason I have to ask is that I've never seen a timing belt
>> cracked as badly as you describe. If it was, then it would probably
>> break in very short order and the car would no longer be running.
>> Most timing belts fail well before then become cracked as you have
>> described and that is after they've been in the car >90K miles though
>> some do fail prematurely however that's rare.
>>
>> Eric
>
>



--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

"sharx333" <emil.santos@gmail.com> wrote in
news:1159581830.879389.312200@k70g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:

>
> I'm afraid that's exactly the belt I'm referring to. This model is a
> "domesticated" version of the EX, with basically the same engine
> (D16z6).
>
> I wouldn't even have seen the cracks if the mechanic hadn't pointed it
> out when I was having the tires rotated.

How'd the mechanic see it if there's a cover over it?
What was he doing under the hood while rotating tires?


> When I got home, I removed
> the valve cover and belt cover, and saw the cracks. So this is bad,
> huh? I wonder what could have caused it... I hear these things
> normally last a long time.
>
> Thanks for the replies.
>
>
>
> Eric wrote:
>
>> Are you sure you're referring to the timing belt? Here's an
>> illustrated index of the timing belt from the factory service manual.
>> http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/m...anual/pdf/6-18.
>> pdf The reason I have to ask is that I've never seen a timing belt
>> cracked as badly as you describe. If it was, then it would probably
>> break in very short order and the car would no longer be running.
>> Most timing belts fail well before then become cracked as you have
>> described and that is after they've been in the car >90K miles though
>> some do fail prematurely however that's rare.
>>
>> Eric
>
>



--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

Hello jim. It was on a lift for the tire rotation, and we decided to
take it up a little higher to check under it. Using a flashlight, he
basically saw just the lower section of the timing belt/pulley. I was
skeptical too, at first, thinking the grooves were too regularly spaced
apart. But when I got home and took the valve cover and belt cover
off... Possibly this belt was put on *too* tight, or was of a quality
for which the word "aftermarket" is too kind.

Anyway I would love to do this myself, so I'm looking through the posts
and reading the service manual, I still can't figure out how to take
that stubborn "special bolt" off...





Jim Yanik wrote:
> "sharx333" <emil.santos@gmail.com> wrote in
> news:1159581830.879389.312200@k70g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:
>
> >
> > I'm afraid that's exactly the belt I'm referring to. This model is a
> > "domesticated" version of the EX, with basically the same engine
> > (D16z6).
> >
> > I wouldn't even have seen the cracks if the mechanic hadn't pointed it
> > out when I was having the tires rotated.
>
> How'd the mechanic see it if there's a cover over it?
> What was he doing under the hood while rotating tires?
>
>
> > When I got home, I removed
> > the valve cover and belt cover, and saw the cracks. So this is bad,
> > huh? I wonder what could have caused it... I hear these things
> > normally last a long time.
> >
> > Thanks for the replies.
> >
> >
> >
> > Eric wrote:
> >
> >> Are you sure you're referring to the timing belt? Here's an
> >> illustrated index of the timing belt from the factory service manual.
> >> http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/m...anual/pdf/6-18.
> >> pdf The reason I have to ask is that I've never seen a timing belt
> >> cracked as badly as you describe. If it was, then it would probably
> >> break in very short order and the car would no longer be running.
> >> Most timing belts fail well before then become cracked as you have
> >> described and that is after they've been in the car >90K miles though
> >> some do fail prematurely however that's rare.
> >>
> >> Eric
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Jim Yanik
> jyanik
> at
> kua.net

 

Hello jim. It was on a lift for the tire rotation, and we decided to
take it up a little higher to check under it. Using a flashlight, he
basically saw just the lower section of the timing belt/pulley. I was
skeptical too, at first, thinking the grooves were too regularly spaced
apart. But when I got home and took the valve cover and belt cover
off... Possibly this belt was put on *too* tight, or was of a quality
for which the word "aftermarket" is too kind.

Anyway I would love to do this myself, so I'm looking through the posts
and reading the service manual, I still can't figure out how to take
that stubborn "special bolt" off...





Jim Yanik wrote:
> "sharx333" <emil.santos@gmail.com> wrote in
> news:1159581830.879389.312200@k70g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:
>
> >
> > I'm afraid that's exactly the belt I'm referring to. This model is a
> > "domesticated" version of the EX, with basically the same engine
> > (D16z6).
> >
> > I wouldn't even have seen the cracks if the mechanic hadn't pointed it
> > out when I was having the tires rotated.
>
> How'd the mechanic see it if there's a cover over it?
> What was he doing under the hood while rotating tires?
>
>
> > When I got home, I removed
> > the valve cover and belt cover, and saw the cracks. So this is bad,
> > huh? I wonder what could have caused it... I hear these things
> > normally last a long time.
> >
> > Thanks for the replies.
> >
> >
> >
> > Eric wrote:
> >
> >> Are you sure you're referring to the timing belt? Here's an
> >> illustrated index of the timing belt from the factory service manual.
> >> http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/m...anual/pdf/6-18.
> >> pdf The reason I have to ask is that I've never seen a timing belt
> >> cracked as badly as you describe. If it was, then it would probably
> >> break in very short order and the car would no longer be running.
> >> Most timing belts fail well before then become cracked as you have
> >> described and that is after they've been in the car >90K miles though
> >> some do fail prematurely however that's rare.
> >>
> >> Eric
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Jim Yanik
> jyanik
> at
> kua.net

 

Hello jim. It was on a lift for the tire rotation, and we decided to
take it up a little higher to check under it. Using a flashlight, he
basically saw just the lower section of the timing belt/pulley. I was
skeptical too, at first, thinking the grooves were too regularly spaced
apart. But when I got home and took the valve cover and belt cover
off... Possibly this belt was put on *too* tight, or was of a quality
for which the word "aftermarket" is too kind.

Anyway I would love to do this myself, so I'm looking through the posts
and reading the service manual, I still can't figure out how to take
that stubborn "special bolt" off...





Jim Yanik wrote:
> "sharx333" <emil.santos@gmail.com> wrote in
> news:1159581830.879389.312200@k70g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:
>
> >
> > I'm afraid that's exactly the belt I'm referring to. This model is a
> > "domesticated" version of the EX, with basically the same engine
> > (D16z6).
> >
> > I wouldn't even have seen the cracks if the mechanic hadn't pointed it
> > out when I was having the tires rotated.
>
> How'd the mechanic see it if there's a cover over it?
> What was he doing under the hood while rotating tires?
>
>
> > When I got home, I removed
> > the valve cover and belt cover, and saw the cracks. So this is bad,
> > huh? I wonder what could have caused it... I hear these things
> > normally last a long time.
> >
> > Thanks for the replies.
> >
> >
> >
> > Eric wrote:
> >
> >> Are you sure you're referring to the timing belt? Here's an
> >> illustrated index of the timing belt from the factory service manual.
> >> http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/m...anual/pdf/6-18.
> >> pdf The reason I have to ask is that I've never seen a timing belt
> >> cracked as badly as you describe. If it was, then it would probably
> >> break in very short order and the car would no longer be running.
> >> Most timing belts fail well before then become cracked as you have
> >> described and that is after they've been in the car >90K miles though
> >> some do fail prematurely however that's rare.
> >>
> >> Eric
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Jim Yanik
> jyanik
> at
> kua.net

 

"sharx333" <emil.santos@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1159614360.868135.22190@k70g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> Hello jim. It was on a lift for the tire rotation, and we decided to
> take it up a little higher to check under it. Using a flashlight, he
> basically saw just the lower section of the timing belt/pulley. I was
> skeptical too, at first, thinking the grooves were too regularly spaced
> apart. But when I got home and took the valve cover and belt cover
> off... Possibly this belt was put on *too* tight, or was of a quality
> for which the word "aftermarket" is too kind.
>
> Anyway I would love to do this myself, so I'm looking through the posts
> and reading the service manual, I still can't figure out how to take
> that stubborn "special bolt" off...
>
>
Check out the options here: http://tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/index.html
As TeGGeR says, an impact wrench is the overall best way. If you can rent a
hefty electric one with a socket to match you should be okay. Note that
regular sockets must not be used with an impact wrench as the brittle
regular sockets can explode. In any event, don't blow off the need for eye
protection.

It can be a challenge, but it can be done. Besides the special techniques, I
think the special bolt requires special vocabulary. But once it moves the
rest is downhill.

Mike

 

"sharx333" <emil.santos@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1159614360.868135.22190@k70g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> Hello jim. It was on a lift for the tire rotation, and we decided to
> take it up a little higher to check under it. Using a flashlight, he
> basically saw just the lower section of the timing belt/pulley. I was
> skeptical too, at first, thinking the grooves were too regularly spaced
> apart. But when I got home and took the valve cover and belt cover
> off... Possibly this belt was put on *too* tight, or was of a quality
> for which the word "aftermarket" is too kind.
>
> Anyway I would love to do this myself, so I'm looking through the posts
> and reading the service manual, I still can't figure out how to take
> that stubborn "special bolt" off...
>
>
Check out the options here: http://tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/index.html
As TeGGeR says, an impact wrench is the overall best way. If you can rent a
hefty electric one with a socket to match you should be okay. Note that
regular sockets must not be used with an impact wrench as the brittle
regular sockets can explode. In any event, don't blow off the need for eye
protection.

It can be a challenge, but it can be done. Besides the special techniques, I
think the special bolt requires special vocabulary. But once it moves the
rest is downhill.

Mike

 

"sharx333" <emil.santos@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1159614360.868135.22190@k70g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> Hello jim. It was on a lift for the tire rotation, and we decided to
> take it up a little higher to check under it. Using a flashlight, he
> basically saw just the lower section of the timing belt/pulley. I was
> skeptical too, at first, thinking the grooves were too regularly spaced
> apart. But when I got home and took the valve cover and belt cover
> off... Possibly this belt was put on *too* tight, or was of a quality
> for which the word "aftermarket" is too kind.
>
> Anyway I would love to do this myself, so I'm looking through the posts
> and reading the service manual, I still can't figure out how to take
> that stubborn "special bolt" off...
>
>
Check out the options here: http://tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/index.html
As TeGGeR says, an impact wrench is the overall best way. If you can rent a
hefty electric one with a socket to match you should be okay. Note that
regular sockets must not be used with an impact wrench as the brittle
regular sockets can explode. In any event, don't blow off the need for eye
protection.

It can be a challenge, but it can be done. Besides the special techniques, I
think the special bolt requires special vocabulary. But once it moves the
rest is downhill.

Mike

 

"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in
newsZqdndLsCvzp84PYnZ2dnUVZ_tGdnZ2d@sedona.net:

> "sharx333" <emil.santos@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1159614360.868135.22190@k70g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
>> Hello jim. It was on a lift for the tire rotation, and we decided to
>> take it up a little higher to check under it. Using a flashlight, he
>> basically saw just the lower section of the timing belt/pulley. I was
>> skeptical too, at first, thinking the grooves were too regularly
>> spaced apart. But when I got home and took the valve cover and belt
>> cover off... Possibly this belt was put on *too* tight, or was of a
>> quality for which the word "aftermarket" is too kind.
>>
>> Anyway I would love to do this myself, so I'm looking through the
>> posts and reading the service manual, I still can't figure out how to
>> take that stubborn "special bolt" off...
>>
>>
> Check out the options here:
> http://tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/index.html As TeGGeR says, an
> impact wrench is the overall best way. If you can rent a hefty
> electric one with a socket to match you should be okay. Note that
> regular sockets must not be used with an impact wrench as the brittle
> regular sockets can explode. In any event, don't blow off the need for
> eye protection.
>
> It can be a challenge, but it can be done. Besides the special
> techniques, I think the special bolt requires special vocabulary. But
> once it moves the rest is downhill.
>
> Mike
>
>
>

crankshaft pulley bolt torque spec for my B18 DOHC motor is 130 ft-lbs,so
you'd need a impact driver with torque greater than that.
(probably a LOT more!!)

My Haynes manual suggests a strap wrench to hold the crank pulley still
while using a 1/2" driver socket and breaker bar.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in
newsZqdndLsCvzp84PYnZ2dnUVZ_tGdnZ2d@sedona.net:

> "sharx333" <emil.santos@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1159614360.868135.22190@k70g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
>> Hello jim. It was on a lift for the tire rotation, and we decided to
>> take it up a little higher to check under it. Using a flashlight, he
>> basically saw just the lower section of the timing belt/pulley. I was
>> skeptical too, at first, thinking the grooves were too regularly
>> spaced apart. But when I got home and took the valve cover and belt
>> cover off... Possibly this belt was put on *too* tight, or was of a
>> quality for which the word "aftermarket" is too kind.
>>
>> Anyway I would love to do this myself, so I'm looking through the
>> posts and reading the service manual, I still can't figure out how to
>> take that stubborn "special bolt" off...
>>
>>
> Check out the options here:
> http://tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/index.html As TeGGeR says, an
> impact wrench is the overall best way. If you can rent a hefty
> electric one with a socket to match you should be okay. Note that
> regular sockets must not be used with an impact wrench as the brittle
> regular sockets can explode. In any event, don't blow off the need for
> eye protection.
>
> It can be a challenge, but it can be done. Besides the special
> techniques, I think the special bolt requires special vocabulary. But
> once it moves the rest is downhill.
>
> Mike
>
>
>

crankshaft pulley bolt torque spec for my B18 DOHC motor is 130 ft-lbs,so
you'd need a impact driver with torque greater than that.
(probably a LOT more!!)

My Haynes manual suggests a strap wrench to hold the crank pulley still
while using a 1/2" driver socket and breaker bar.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net