Axle replacement - 95 Accord
08-09-2007 | 09:54 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Axle replacement - 95 Accord
greg.berchelmann@gmail.com wrote:
> On Aug 9, 1:15 pm, "Michael Pardee" <michaeltn...@cybertrails.com>
> wrote:
>> "Greg" <centau...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:1186675079.936930.54290@e9g2000prf.googlegrou ps.com...
>>
>>>> 3lb hammer? unfortunately, you'll now need to replace the bearings
>>>> shortly.
>>>> for future reference, never beat the axle to get it out - use a proper
>>>> pulling tool that doesn't load the bearings. hammering brinnels the
>>>> bearings and reduces longevity to almost zero.
>>> Jim - thanks for your reply. Could you specifically suggest a tool
>>> that I should have used--preferably something I could buy online or at
>>> a local store? I looked around the web a bit and didn't see anything
>>> that I thought would work. I did see some tools for rear axles that
>>> use a slide-hammer. To be honest with you, the axle was stuck in there
>>> so badly that I really don't think a slide hammer would have gotten it
>>> out. Maybe when the axle is rusted in there that badly, you just have
>>> to hammer it out like I did and plan on replacing the bearings? I have
>>> another honda and if I have to do the same job on it, I'd like to make
>>> sure I do it the best way. Thanks again.
>> Here in Arizona we don't have that problem - no rust to speak of. A couple
>> taps with a rubber mallet on the back of the steering knuckle is enough. But
>> if we did, I'd probably go for a rag folded over to make a fairly thick pad
>> and then applying a heavy "mallet" (like the end of several feet of 2X4) to
>> the end. What you want is a "dead blow." Brinneling the bearings occurs if
>> the actual impact is so high it can dent the bearing races, while the real
>> work of separating the parts is done by transferring impulse. Similarly, you
>> can try holding the axle and whacking the knuckle (not yours, the car's!)
>> with a mallet on as many different locations as you can reach over and over.
>> As long as you don't lay metal to metal you shouldn't brinnel the bearings.
>> Patience might just pay off.
>>
>> The proper tool is undoubtedly a press, but that requires complete removal
>> of the steering knuckle. There may be nothing else to hold the bearings in
>> while pressing on the axle, so it is possible the bearings could come out
>> still jammed onto the axle splines. Or the disc may be in the way... dunno
>> about the '95 Accord in that way.
>>
>> In any case, for you the die has been cast. It would be great if you can
>> provide some follow-up regarding symptoms (noise, pulling toward the side
>> you were working on) and whether you had to replace the bearings as a
>> result.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> "Good judgement comes from experience; experience often comes from bad
>> judgement."
>
> Thanks for your reply, Mike. Your explanation of how the bearings are
> impacted (!) makes a lot of sense to me. I think that concept applies
> to lots of other situations as well, so I'll keep it in mind for
> future reference.
>
> The friend who was helping me actually has a press in his basement,
> which is why we took out the whole knuckle and axle assembly. The
> problem that we had was that the attached axle did not fit through the
> hole on his press. There was no way to secure the assembly in such a
> way to use the press. Maybe it would have worked on a larger, more
> industrial-grade press.
>
> I hope I don't have to replace the bearings, and the car seems to be
> driving normally and smoothly. If something should happen to the
> bearings on that side I'll definitely update this thread.
>
you can't just use a press - not pressing against the knuckle anyway.
the "press" needs to be one that loads the axle from against the hub
inner so the bearings aren't involved like this:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-7208A.html
for bearing replacement, if you didn't have access to a press, this
would be the way to go:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-6537.html
you can sell it on craigslist again afterwards and get most of your
money back too!
> On Aug 9, 1:15 pm, "Michael Pardee" <michaeltn...@cybertrails.com>
> wrote:
>> "Greg" <centau...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:1186675079.936930.54290@e9g2000prf.googlegrou ps.com...
>>
>>>> 3lb hammer? unfortunately, you'll now need to replace the bearings
>>>> shortly.
>>>> for future reference, never beat the axle to get it out - use a proper
>>>> pulling tool that doesn't load the bearings. hammering brinnels the
>>>> bearings and reduces longevity to almost zero.
>>> Jim - thanks for your reply. Could you specifically suggest a tool
>>> that I should have used--preferably something I could buy online or at
>>> a local store? I looked around the web a bit and didn't see anything
>>> that I thought would work. I did see some tools for rear axles that
>>> use a slide-hammer. To be honest with you, the axle was stuck in there
>>> so badly that I really don't think a slide hammer would have gotten it
>>> out. Maybe when the axle is rusted in there that badly, you just have
>>> to hammer it out like I did and plan on replacing the bearings? I have
>>> another honda and if I have to do the same job on it, I'd like to make
>>> sure I do it the best way. Thanks again.
>> Here in Arizona we don't have that problem - no rust to speak of. A couple
>> taps with a rubber mallet on the back of the steering knuckle is enough. But
>> if we did, I'd probably go for a rag folded over to make a fairly thick pad
>> and then applying a heavy "mallet" (like the end of several feet of 2X4) to
>> the end. What you want is a "dead blow." Brinneling the bearings occurs if
>> the actual impact is so high it can dent the bearing races, while the real
>> work of separating the parts is done by transferring impulse. Similarly, you
>> can try holding the axle and whacking the knuckle (not yours, the car's!)
>> with a mallet on as many different locations as you can reach over and over.
>> As long as you don't lay metal to metal you shouldn't brinnel the bearings.
>> Patience might just pay off.
>>
>> The proper tool is undoubtedly a press, but that requires complete removal
>> of the steering knuckle. There may be nothing else to hold the bearings in
>> while pressing on the axle, so it is possible the bearings could come out
>> still jammed onto the axle splines. Or the disc may be in the way... dunno
>> about the '95 Accord in that way.
>>
>> In any case, for you the die has been cast. It would be great if you can
>> provide some follow-up regarding symptoms (noise, pulling toward the side
>> you were working on) and whether you had to replace the bearings as a
>> result.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> "Good judgement comes from experience; experience often comes from bad
>> judgement."
>
> Thanks for your reply, Mike. Your explanation of how the bearings are
> impacted (!) makes a lot of sense to me. I think that concept applies
> to lots of other situations as well, so I'll keep it in mind for
> future reference.
>
> The friend who was helping me actually has a press in his basement,
> which is why we took out the whole knuckle and axle assembly. The
> problem that we had was that the attached axle did not fit through the
> hole on his press. There was no way to secure the assembly in such a
> way to use the press. Maybe it would have worked on a larger, more
> industrial-grade press.
>
> I hope I don't have to replace the bearings, and the car seems to be
> driving normally and smoothly. If something should happen to the
> bearings on that side I'll definitely update this thread.
>
you can't just use a press - not pressing against the knuckle anyway.
the "press" needs to be one that loads the axle from against the hub
inner so the bearings aren't involved like this:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-7208A.html
for bearing replacement, if you didn't have access to a press, this
would be the way to go:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-6537.html
you can sell it on craigslist again afterwards and get most of your
money back too!
08-09-2007 | 09:57 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Axle replacement - 95 Accord
Michael Pardee wrote:
> "Greg" <centaur99@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1186675079.936930.54290@e9g2000prf.googlegrou ps.com...
>>> 3lb hammer? unfortunately, you'll now need to replace the bearings
>>> shortly.
>>>
>>> for future reference, never beat the axle to get it out - use a proper
>>> pulling tool that doesn't load the bearings. hammering brinnels the
>>> bearings and reduces longevity to almost zero.
>> Jim - thanks for your reply. Could you specifically suggest a tool
>> that I should have used--preferably something I could buy online or at
>> a local store? I looked around the web a bit and didn't see anything
>> that I thought would work. I did see some tools for rear axles that
>> use a slide-hammer. To be honest with you, the axle was stuck in there
>> so badly that I really don't think a slide hammer would have gotten it
>> out. Maybe when the axle is rusted in there that badly, you just have
>> to hammer it out like I did and plan on replacing the bearings? I have
>> another honda and if I have to do the same job on it, I'd like to make
>> sure I do it the best way. Thanks again.
>>
>>
> Here in Arizona we don't have that problem - no rust to speak of. A couple
> taps with a rubber mallet on the back of the steering knuckle is enough. But
> if we did, I'd probably go for a rag folded over to make a fairly thick pad
> and then applying a heavy "mallet" (like the end of several feet of 2X4) to
> the end. What you want is a "dead blow." Brinneling the bearings occurs if
> the actual impact is so high it can dent the bearing races, while the real
> work of separating the parts is done by transferring impulse.
but if the axle is seized into the hub, that can't happen.
> Similarly, you
> can try holding the axle and whacking the knuckle (not yours, the car's!)
> with a mallet on as many different locations as you can reach over and over.
> As long as you don't lay metal to metal you shouldn't brinnel the bearings.
> Patience might just pay off.
dude, for $32, it's just not worth it. the tool takes care of
everything and no risk to the bearings whatsoever.
>
> The proper tool is undoubtedly a press, but that requires complete removal
> of the steering knuckle.
nope - see response to greg.
> There may be nothing else to hold the bearings in
> while pressing on the axle, so it is possible the bearings could come out
> still jammed onto the axle splines. Or the disc may be in the way... dunno
> about the '95 Accord in that way.
>
> In any case, for you the die has been cast. It would be great if you can
> provide some follow-up regarding symptoms (noise, pulling toward the side
> you were working on) and whether you had to replace the bearings as a
> result.
>
> Mike
>
> "Good judgement comes from experience; experience often comes from bad
> judgement."
>
>
>
> "Greg" <centaur99@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1186675079.936930.54290@e9g2000prf.googlegrou ps.com...
>>> 3lb hammer? unfortunately, you'll now need to replace the bearings
>>> shortly.
>>>
>>> for future reference, never beat the axle to get it out - use a proper
>>> pulling tool that doesn't load the bearings. hammering brinnels the
>>> bearings and reduces longevity to almost zero.
>> Jim - thanks for your reply. Could you specifically suggest a tool
>> that I should have used--preferably something I could buy online or at
>> a local store? I looked around the web a bit and didn't see anything
>> that I thought would work. I did see some tools for rear axles that
>> use a slide-hammer. To be honest with you, the axle was stuck in there
>> so badly that I really don't think a slide hammer would have gotten it
>> out. Maybe when the axle is rusted in there that badly, you just have
>> to hammer it out like I did and plan on replacing the bearings? I have
>> another honda and if I have to do the same job on it, I'd like to make
>> sure I do it the best way. Thanks again.
>>
>>
> Here in Arizona we don't have that problem - no rust to speak of. A couple
> taps with a rubber mallet on the back of the steering knuckle is enough. But
> if we did, I'd probably go for a rag folded over to make a fairly thick pad
> and then applying a heavy "mallet" (like the end of several feet of 2X4) to
> the end. What you want is a "dead blow." Brinneling the bearings occurs if
> the actual impact is so high it can dent the bearing races, while the real
> work of separating the parts is done by transferring impulse.
but if the axle is seized into the hub, that can't happen.
> Similarly, you
> can try holding the axle and whacking the knuckle (not yours, the car's!)
> with a mallet on as many different locations as you can reach over and over.
> As long as you don't lay metal to metal you shouldn't brinnel the bearings.
> Patience might just pay off.
dude, for $32, it's just not worth it. the tool takes care of
everything and no risk to the bearings whatsoever.
>
> The proper tool is undoubtedly a press, but that requires complete removal
> of the steering knuckle.
nope - see response to greg.
> There may be nothing else to hold the bearings in
> while pressing on the axle, so it is possible the bearings could come out
> still jammed onto the axle splines. Or the disc may be in the way... dunno
> about the '95 Accord in that way.
>
> In any case, for you the die has been cast. It would be great if you can
> provide some follow-up regarding symptoms (noise, pulling toward the side
> you were working on) and whether you had to replace the bearings as a
> result.
>
> Mike
>
> "Good judgement comes from experience; experience often comes from bad
> judgement."
>
>
>
08-09-2007 | 09:57 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Axle replacement - 95 Accord
Michael Pardee wrote:
> "Greg" <centaur99@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1186675079.936930.54290@e9g2000prf.googlegrou ps.com...
>>> 3lb hammer? unfortunately, you'll now need to replace the bearings
>>> shortly.
>>>
>>> for future reference, never beat the axle to get it out - use a proper
>>> pulling tool that doesn't load the bearings. hammering brinnels the
>>> bearings and reduces longevity to almost zero.
>> Jim - thanks for your reply. Could you specifically suggest a tool
>> that I should have used--preferably something I could buy online or at
>> a local store? I looked around the web a bit and didn't see anything
>> that I thought would work. I did see some tools for rear axles that
>> use a slide-hammer. To be honest with you, the axle was stuck in there
>> so badly that I really don't think a slide hammer would have gotten it
>> out. Maybe when the axle is rusted in there that badly, you just have
>> to hammer it out like I did and plan on replacing the bearings? I have
>> another honda and if I have to do the same job on it, I'd like to make
>> sure I do it the best way. Thanks again.
>>
>>
> Here in Arizona we don't have that problem - no rust to speak of. A couple
> taps with a rubber mallet on the back of the steering knuckle is enough. But
> if we did, I'd probably go for a rag folded over to make a fairly thick pad
> and then applying a heavy "mallet" (like the end of several feet of 2X4) to
> the end. What you want is a "dead blow." Brinneling the bearings occurs if
> the actual impact is so high it can dent the bearing races, while the real
> work of separating the parts is done by transferring impulse.
but if the axle is seized into the hub, that can't happen.
> Similarly, you
> can try holding the axle and whacking the knuckle (not yours, the car's!)
> with a mallet on as many different locations as you can reach over and over.
> As long as you don't lay metal to metal you shouldn't brinnel the bearings.
> Patience might just pay off.
dude, for $32, it's just not worth it. the tool takes care of
everything and no risk to the bearings whatsoever.
>
> The proper tool is undoubtedly a press, but that requires complete removal
> of the steering knuckle.
nope - see response to greg.
> There may be nothing else to hold the bearings in
> while pressing on the axle, so it is possible the bearings could come out
> still jammed onto the axle splines. Or the disc may be in the way... dunno
> about the '95 Accord in that way.
>
> In any case, for you the die has been cast. It would be great if you can
> provide some follow-up regarding symptoms (noise, pulling toward the side
> you were working on) and whether you had to replace the bearings as a
> result.
>
> Mike
>
> "Good judgement comes from experience; experience often comes from bad
> judgement."
>
>
>
> "Greg" <centaur99@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1186675079.936930.54290@e9g2000prf.googlegrou ps.com...
>>> 3lb hammer? unfortunately, you'll now need to replace the bearings
>>> shortly.
>>>
>>> for future reference, never beat the axle to get it out - use a proper
>>> pulling tool that doesn't load the bearings. hammering brinnels the
>>> bearings and reduces longevity to almost zero.
>> Jim - thanks for your reply. Could you specifically suggest a tool
>> that I should have used--preferably something I could buy online or at
>> a local store? I looked around the web a bit and didn't see anything
>> that I thought would work. I did see some tools for rear axles that
>> use a slide-hammer. To be honest with you, the axle was stuck in there
>> so badly that I really don't think a slide hammer would have gotten it
>> out. Maybe when the axle is rusted in there that badly, you just have
>> to hammer it out like I did and plan on replacing the bearings? I have
>> another honda and if I have to do the same job on it, I'd like to make
>> sure I do it the best way. Thanks again.
>>
>>
> Here in Arizona we don't have that problem - no rust to speak of. A couple
> taps with a rubber mallet on the back of the steering knuckle is enough. But
> if we did, I'd probably go for a rag folded over to make a fairly thick pad
> and then applying a heavy "mallet" (like the end of several feet of 2X4) to
> the end. What you want is a "dead blow." Brinneling the bearings occurs if
> the actual impact is so high it can dent the bearing races, while the real
> work of separating the parts is done by transferring impulse.
but if the axle is seized into the hub, that can't happen.
> Similarly, you
> can try holding the axle and whacking the knuckle (not yours, the car's!)
> with a mallet on as many different locations as you can reach over and over.
> As long as you don't lay metal to metal you shouldn't brinnel the bearings.
> Patience might just pay off.
dude, for $32, it's just not worth it. the tool takes care of
everything and no risk to the bearings whatsoever.
>
> The proper tool is undoubtedly a press, but that requires complete removal
> of the steering knuckle.
nope - see response to greg.
> There may be nothing else to hold the bearings in
> while pressing on the axle, so it is possible the bearings could come out
> still jammed onto the axle splines. Or the disc may be in the way... dunno
> about the '95 Accord in that way.
>
> In any case, for you the die has been cast. It would be great if you can
> provide some follow-up regarding symptoms (noise, pulling toward the side
> you were working on) and whether you had to replace the bearings as a
> result.
>
> Mike
>
> "Good judgement comes from experience; experience often comes from bad
> judgement."
>
>
>
08-09-2007 | 09:57 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Axle replacement - 95 Accord
Michael Pardee wrote:
> "Greg" <centaur99@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1186675079.936930.54290@e9g2000prf.googlegrou ps.com...
>>> 3lb hammer? unfortunately, you'll now need to replace the bearings
>>> shortly.
>>>
>>> for future reference, never beat the axle to get it out - use a proper
>>> pulling tool that doesn't load the bearings. hammering brinnels the
>>> bearings and reduces longevity to almost zero.
>> Jim - thanks for your reply. Could you specifically suggest a tool
>> that I should have used--preferably something I could buy online or at
>> a local store? I looked around the web a bit and didn't see anything
>> that I thought would work. I did see some tools for rear axles that
>> use a slide-hammer. To be honest with you, the axle was stuck in there
>> so badly that I really don't think a slide hammer would have gotten it
>> out. Maybe when the axle is rusted in there that badly, you just have
>> to hammer it out like I did and plan on replacing the bearings? I have
>> another honda and if I have to do the same job on it, I'd like to make
>> sure I do it the best way. Thanks again.
>>
>>
> Here in Arizona we don't have that problem - no rust to speak of. A couple
> taps with a rubber mallet on the back of the steering knuckle is enough. But
> if we did, I'd probably go for a rag folded over to make a fairly thick pad
> and then applying a heavy "mallet" (like the end of several feet of 2X4) to
> the end. What you want is a "dead blow." Brinneling the bearings occurs if
> the actual impact is so high it can dent the bearing races, while the real
> work of separating the parts is done by transferring impulse.
but if the axle is seized into the hub, that can't happen.
> Similarly, you
> can try holding the axle and whacking the knuckle (not yours, the car's!)
> with a mallet on as many different locations as you can reach over and over.
> As long as you don't lay metal to metal you shouldn't brinnel the bearings.
> Patience might just pay off.
dude, for $32, it's just not worth it. the tool takes care of
everything and no risk to the bearings whatsoever.
>
> The proper tool is undoubtedly a press, but that requires complete removal
> of the steering knuckle.
nope - see response to greg.
> There may be nothing else to hold the bearings in
> while pressing on the axle, so it is possible the bearings could come out
> still jammed onto the axle splines. Or the disc may be in the way... dunno
> about the '95 Accord in that way.
>
> In any case, for you the die has been cast. It would be great if you can
> provide some follow-up regarding symptoms (noise, pulling toward the side
> you were working on) and whether you had to replace the bearings as a
> result.
>
> Mike
>
> "Good judgement comes from experience; experience often comes from bad
> judgement."
>
>
>
> "Greg" <centaur99@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1186675079.936930.54290@e9g2000prf.googlegrou ps.com...
>>> 3lb hammer? unfortunately, you'll now need to replace the bearings
>>> shortly.
>>>
>>> for future reference, never beat the axle to get it out - use a proper
>>> pulling tool that doesn't load the bearings. hammering brinnels the
>>> bearings and reduces longevity to almost zero.
>> Jim - thanks for your reply. Could you specifically suggest a tool
>> that I should have used--preferably something I could buy online or at
>> a local store? I looked around the web a bit and didn't see anything
>> that I thought would work. I did see some tools for rear axles that
>> use a slide-hammer. To be honest with you, the axle was stuck in there
>> so badly that I really don't think a slide hammer would have gotten it
>> out. Maybe when the axle is rusted in there that badly, you just have
>> to hammer it out like I did and plan on replacing the bearings? I have
>> another honda and if I have to do the same job on it, I'd like to make
>> sure I do it the best way. Thanks again.
>>
>>
> Here in Arizona we don't have that problem - no rust to speak of. A couple
> taps with a rubber mallet on the back of the steering knuckle is enough. But
> if we did, I'd probably go for a rag folded over to make a fairly thick pad
> and then applying a heavy "mallet" (like the end of several feet of 2X4) to
> the end. What you want is a "dead blow." Brinneling the bearings occurs if
> the actual impact is so high it can dent the bearing races, while the real
> work of separating the parts is done by transferring impulse.
but if the axle is seized into the hub, that can't happen.
> Similarly, you
> can try holding the axle and whacking the knuckle (not yours, the car's!)
> with a mallet on as many different locations as you can reach over and over.
> As long as you don't lay metal to metal you shouldn't brinnel the bearings.
> Patience might just pay off.
dude, for $32, it's just not worth it. the tool takes care of
everything and no risk to the bearings whatsoever.
>
> The proper tool is undoubtedly a press, but that requires complete removal
> of the steering knuckle.
nope - see response to greg.
> There may be nothing else to hold the bearings in
> while pressing on the axle, so it is possible the bearings could come out
> still jammed onto the axle splines. Or the disc may be in the way... dunno
> about the '95 Accord in that way.
>
> In any case, for you the die has been cast. It would be great if you can
> provide some follow-up regarding symptoms (noise, pulling toward the side
> you were working on) and whether you had to replace the bearings as a
> result.
>
> Mike
>
> "Good judgement comes from experience; experience often comes from bad
> judgement."
>
>
>
08-10-2007 | 01:03 AM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Axle replacement - 95 Accord
"jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
news:0MydnV56yeTGWCbbnZ2dnUVZ_tKinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>
> you can't just use a press - not pressing against the knuckle anyway. the
> "press" needs to be one that loads the axle from against the hub inner so
> the bearings aren't involved like this:
>
> http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-7208A.html
>
> for bearing replacement, if you didn't have access to a press, this would
> be the way to go:
>
> http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-6537.html
>
> you can sell it on craigslist again afterwards and get most of your money
> back too!
>
>
Cool links! Thanks, Jim. Although for the bearing I will just take it to a
local machine shop that does bearing replacements. Waiting a couple days is
easier on me than paying $300 for something I need so rarely.
Mike
news:0MydnV56yeTGWCbbnZ2dnUVZ_tKinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>
> you can't just use a press - not pressing against the knuckle anyway. the
> "press" needs to be one that loads the axle from against the hub inner so
> the bearings aren't involved like this:
>
> http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-7208A.html
>
> for bearing replacement, if you didn't have access to a press, this would
> be the way to go:
>
> http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-6537.html
>
> you can sell it on craigslist again afterwards and get most of your money
> back too!
>
>
Cool links! Thanks, Jim. Although for the bearing I will just take it to a
local machine shop that does bearing replacements. Waiting a couple days is
easier on me than paying $300 for something I need so rarely.
Mike
08-10-2007 | 01:03 AM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Axle replacement - 95 Accord
"jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
news:0MydnV56yeTGWCbbnZ2dnUVZ_tKinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>
> you can't just use a press - not pressing against the knuckle anyway. the
> "press" needs to be one that loads the axle from against the hub inner so
> the bearings aren't involved like this:
>
> http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-7208A.html
>
> for bearing replacement, if you didn't have access to a press, this would
> be the way to go:
>
> http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-6537.html
>
> you can sell it on craigslist again afterwards and get most of your money
> back too!
>
>
Cool links! Thanks, Jim. Although for the bearing I will just take it to a
local machine shop that does bearing replacements. Waiting a couple days is
easier on me than paying $300 for something I need so rarely.
Mike
news:0MydnV56yeTGWCbbnZ2dnUVZ_tKinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>
> you can't just use a press - not pressing against the knuckle anyway. the
> "press" needs to be one that loads the axle from against the hub inner so
> the bearings aren't involved like this:
>
> http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-7208A.html
>
> for bearing replacement, if you didn't have access to a press, this would
> be the way to go:
>
> http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-6537.html
>
> you can sell it on craigslist again afterwards and get most of your money
> back too!
>
>
Cool links! Thanks, Jim. Although for the bearing I will just take it to a
local machine shop that does bearing replacements. Waiting a couple days is
easier on me than paying $300 for something I need so rarely.
Mike
08-10-2007 | 01:03 AM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Axle replacement - 95 Accord
"jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
news:0MydnV56yeTGWCbbnZ2dnUVZ_tKinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>
> you can't just use a press - not pressing against the knuckle anyway. the
> "press" needs to be one that loads the axle from against the hub inner so
> the bearings aren't involved like this:
>
> http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-7208A.html
>
> for bearing replacement, if you didn't have access to a press, this would
> be the way to go:
>
> http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-6537.html
>
> you can sell it on craigslist again afterwards and get most of your money
> back too!
>
>
Cool links! Thanks, Jim. Although for the bearing I will just take it to a
local machine shop that does bearing replacements. Waiting a couple days is
easier on me than paying $300 for something I need so rarely.
Mike
news:0MydnV56yeTGWCbbnZ2dnUVZ_tKinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>
> you can't just use a press - not pressing against the knuckle anyway. the
> "press" needs to be one that loads the axle from against the hub inner so
> the bearings aren't involved like this:
>
> http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-7208A.html
>
> for bearing replacement, if you didn't have access to a press, this would
> be the way to go:
>
> http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-6537.html
>
> you can sell it on craigslist again afterwards and get most of your money
> back too!
>
>
Cool links! Thanks, Jim. Although for the bearing I will just take it to a
local machine shop that does bearing replacements. Waiting a couple days is
easier on me than paying $300 for something I need so rarely.
Mike
08-10-2007 | 09:44 AM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Axle replacement - 95 Accord
On Aug 10, 12:03 am, "Michael Pardee" <michaeltn...@cybertrails.com>
wrote:
> "jim beam" <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote in message
>
> news:0MydnV56yeTGWCbbnZ2dnUVZ_tKinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>
>
>
>
>
> > you can't just use a press - not pressing against the knuckle anyway. the
> > "press" needs to be one that loads the axle from against the hub inner so
> > the bearings aren't involved like this:
>
> >http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-7208A.html
>
> > for bearing replacement, if you didn't have access to a press, this would
> > be the way to go:
>
> >http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-6537.html
>
> > you can sell it on craigslist again afterwards and get most of your money
> > back too!
>
> Cool links! Thanks, Jim. Although for the bearing I will just take it to a
> local machine shop that does bearing replacements. Waiting a couple days is
> easier on me than paying $300 for something I need so rarely.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Yep, thanks for the links Jim. Hopefully I won't have to replace that
front left bearing, but I will definitely consider having that first
puller tool around next time I have to remove some axles, especially
if I'm doing it myself. Thanks guys--as always, you all are a great
resource.
wrote:
> "jim beam" <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote in message
>
> news:0MydnV56yeTGWCbbnZ2dnUVZ_tKinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>
>
>
>
>
> > you can't just use a press - not pressing against the knuckle anyway. the
> > "press" needs to be one that loads the axle from against the hub inner so
> > the bearings aren't involved like this:
>
> >http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-7208A.html
>
> > for bearing replacement, if you didn't have access to a press, this would
> > be the way to go:
>
> >http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-6537.html
>
> > you can sell it on craigslist again afterwards and get most of your money
> > back too!
>
> Cool links! Thanks, Jim. Although for the bearing I will just take it to a
> local machine shop that does bearing replacements. Waiting a couple days is
> easier on me than paying $300 for something I need so rarely.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Yep, thanks for the links Jim. Hopefully I won't have to replace that
front left bearing, but I will definitely consider having that first
puller tool around next time I have to remove some axles, especially
if I'm doing it myself. Thanks guys--as always, you all are a great
resource.
08-10-2007 | 09:44 AM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Axle replacement - 95 Accord
On Aug 10, 12:03 am, "Michael Pardee" <michaeltn...@cybertrails.com>
wrote:
> "jim beam" <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote in message
>
> news:0MydnV56yeTGWCbbnZ2dnUVZ_tKinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>
>
>
>
>
> > you can't just use a press - not pressing against the knuckle anyway. the
> > "press" needs to be one that loads the axle from against the hub inner so
> > the bearings aren't involved like this:
>
> >http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-7208A.html
>
> > for bearing replacement, if you didn't have access to a press, this would
> > be the way to go:
>
> >http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-6537.html
>
> > you can sell it on craigslist again afterwards and get most of your money
> > back too!
>
> Cool links! Thanks, Jim. Although for the bearing I will just take it to a
> local machine shop that does bearing replacements. Waiting a couple days is
> easier on me than paying $300 for something I need so rarely.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Yep, thanks for the links Jim. Hopefully I won't have to replace that
front left bearing, but I will definitely consider having that first
puller tool around next time I have to remove some axles, especially
if I'm doing it myself. Thanks guys--as always, you all are a great
resource.
wrote:
> "jim beam" <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote in message
>
> news:0MydnV56yeTGWCbbnZ2dnUVZ_tKinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>
>
>
>
>
> > you can't just use a press - not pressing against the knuckle anyway. the
> > "press" needs to be one that loads the axle from against the hub inner so
> > the bearings aren't involved like this:
>
> >http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-7208A.html
>
> > for bearing replacement, if you didn't have access to a press, this would
> > be the way to go:
>
> >http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-6537.html
>
> > you can sell it on craigslist again afterwards and get most of your money
> > back too!
>
> Cool links! Thanks, Jim. Although for the bearing I will just take it to a
> local machine shop that does bearing replacements. Waiting a couple days is
> easier on me than paying $300 for something I need so rarely.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Yep, thanks for the links Jim. Hopefully I won't have to replace that
front left bearing, but I will definitely consider having that first
puller tool around next time I have to remove some axles, especially
if I'm doing it myself. Thanks guys--as always, you all are a great
resource.
08-10-2007 | 09:44 AM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Axle replacement - 95 Accord
On Aug 10, 12:03 am, "Michael Pardee" <michaeltn...@cybertrails.com>
wrote:
> "jim beam" <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote in message
>
> news:0MydnV56yeTGWCbbnZ2dnUVZ_tKinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>
>
>
>
>
> > you can't just use a press - not pressing against the knuckle anyway. the
> > "press" needs to be one that loads the axle from against the hub inner so
> > the bearings aren't involved like this:
>
> >http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-7208A.html
>
> > for bearing replacement, if you didn't have access to a press, this would
> > be the way to go:
>
> >http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-6537.html
>
> > you can sell it on craigslist again afterwards and get most of your money
> > back too!
>
> Cool links! Thanks, Jim. Although for the bearing I will just take it to a
> local machine shop that does bearing replacements. Waiting a couple days is
> easier on me than paying $300 for something I need so rarely.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Yep, thanks for the links Jim. Hopefully I won't have to replace that
front left bearing, but I will definitely consider having that first
puller tool around next time I have to remove some axles, especially
if I'm doing it myself. Thanks guys--as always, you all are a great
resource.
wrote:
> "jim beam" <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote in message
>
> news:0MydnV56yeTGWCbbnZ2dnUVZ_tKinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>
>
>
>
>
> > you can't just use a press - not pressing against the knuckle anyway. the
> > "press" needs to be one that loads the axle from against the hub inner so
> > the bearings aren't involved like this:
>
> >http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-7208A.html
>
> > for bearing replacement, if you didn't have access to a press, this would
> > be the way to go:
>
> >http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-6537.html
>
> > you can sell it on craigslist again afterwards and get most of your money
> > back too!
>
> Cool links! Thanks, Jim. Although for the bearing I will just take it to a
> local machine shop that does bearing replacements. Waiting a couple days is
> easier on me than paying $300 for something I need so rarely.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Yep, thanks for the links Jim. Hopefully I won't have to replace that
front left bearing, but I will definitely consider having that first
puller tool around next time I have to remove some axles, especially
if I'm doing it myself. Thanks guys--as always, you all are a great
resource.
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