If the ball joint is that stuck in the taper, and the proper tool is
unavailable or doesn't work, I have resorted to a pickle fork for tie rod
ends on my 87 prelude. The angle of the forks is much steeper, and the
opening of the forks is much narrower than the ball joint pickle forks out
there. And I got lucky and did not destroy the rubber boot on the ball joint.


On the 87 'lude, I did disassemble the inner joint, then reassembled after
running the shaft through the fork. I am located in Winnipeg, much salt and
rust up here so I didn't even want to try loosening the nuts on the steering
fork. I don't think its crazy to do that, but based on the info you provided,
you did the right thing.

t

glenn wrote:
>> Hi. I'm caught in the old bind of being too poor to get a car that doesn't
>> need constant repairs, because my only car needs constant repairs, thus
>[quoted text clipped - 51 lines]
>> Any help/tips/sharing-of-experiences greatly appreciated.
>> -ed
>
>Where were all youse guys days ago when I originally posted?? I attempted
>the job Friday morning and I think I might have succeeded if I had some of
>this input before I dived in. Oh well - here's the scoop:
>
>This talk about taking apart the inner joint sounds completely nuts! I'm
>going by the official dealer's manual and Hayne's manual and several other
>descriptions of the job found on the web, and they ALL say take out the
>fork, separate the lower control arm from the ball joint, and pull the whole
>half axle sucker out. I'm not in the rust belt (I'm in Bay Area, CA), so
>I've never even heard of such a thing (talk about a pain!).
>
>I had to use a 3' extension on a 1/2" drive socket wrench to break loose the
>spindle nuts, but I was successful (that had me worried as I had read horror
>stories).
>
>I had no problems whatsover with the fork - came right out. Come to think of
>it, I'm glad I did NOT read about the seized lower bolt scenerio - it would
>have just upped the anxiety.
>
>Got the blasted cotter pin out of the castle nut on the ball joint after
>only 20 minutes of fussing. 30 seconds later had the castle nut off.
>
>Then - A BRICK WALL. Could NOT get anywhere with getting the lower control
>arm free of the ball joint. Had a good sized 2-arm gear puller (as
>recommended by the manual and elsewhere): tried getting it as tight as I
>could (got it VERY tight, in fact, with no luck), and hammering on the bolt
>with puller on - all to no avail. Would have used a butane torch to heat
>lower arm but couldn't find the nozzle at my place of work so had to just
>call it quits and get it all reassembled for the sad drive back home. (Glad
>I did not heat it now that I've researched this job more on the web).
>
>Got home and spent HOURS on the web searching for into on getting the lower
>control arm free from the ball joint, and found out a few things:
>
>* input from a LOT of people saying the puller tools are all but worthless.
>I agree completely.
>
>* the one 'puller' tool most agreed can do the job is a lever-type ball end
>remover, a picture of which can be seen here: http://tinyurl.com/9gfaf Of
>course, I didn't have one, and have no $ to buy one, so it may as well not
>exist for me.
>
>* pounding on an axle end with a steel ANYTHING is complete idiotic
>(pounding on a partially unscrewed spindle nut to loosen it probably OK, but
>one should NEVER pound shaft (or joint housings) with hammer to get shaft
>installed in transaxle.
>
>* In reference to getting lower control arm free of ball joint: I came
>across several references to the 'ratchet trick' but didn't know what it was
>about. Finally tracked it down to one of the best postings I've ever come
>across in forum 'how-to' discussion: http://tinyurl.com/72zmg There's even
>a movie showing the trick in work. IF ONLY I HAD KNOWN THIS AT THE
>TIME!!!!!!! It's close to the suggestion posted originally by M.A. Stewart
>about using one tyne of a ball joint fork - I think if I had read that
>before my attempt, even though I don't have the fork, I would have thought
>to look around for a piece of metal to wedge in there (like a chisel) and
>maybe I could have succeeded. But with the ratchet trick, you don't even
>need a hammer - just jack up the assy, wedge in the ratchet (or any properly
>sized piece of metal), then lower the jack. If the fork is still in, the
>spring tension will pop the arm off the ball joint stud; if the fork is out,
>just stepping down smartly with your foot on the top of the caliper will pop
>it out. (so everyone claims - we'll see soon enough!)
>
>I've read enough not to fear getting the inner end of the shaft free from
>the differential, but I might have gotten stuck on getting the outer end of
>the shaft out of the hub (if I had gotten past the lower arm problem), but
>again, because I'm in CA and not the rust belt, I don't think that will be a
>great problem. (probably shouldn't have said that).
>
>I'm way too sore and tired and spent to even think about when I'll next try
>this job, but having the 'ratchet trick' to try makes a part of me almost
>eager to get back in the fray. Maybe in a few days...
>
>thanks for all responses!


--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200510/1

 

"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message
news:Jvudnb-JqP3W18feRVn-qA@speakeasy.net...
> glenn wrote:
>> "glenn" <lunaqua@gmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:0715f.3717$BZ5.1523@newssvr13.news.prodigy.co m...
>>
>>>Hi. I'm caught in the old bind of being too poor to get a car that
>>>doesn't

<...snip irrevelant stuff...>

>> * In reference to getting lower control arm free of ball joint: I came
>> across several references to the 'ratchet trick' but didn't know what it
>> was about. Finally tracked it down to one of the best postings I've ever
>> come across in forum 'how-to' discussion: http://tinyurl.com/72zmg
>> There's even a movie showing the trick in work. IF ONLY I HAD KNOWN THIS
>> AT THE TIME!!!!!!!
>
> that is a lucky california trick. and it's bad for 2 reasons. first is
> that it overstresses the actual balljoint. that can lead to premature
> failure of the ball/socket, and in extreme cases, fatigue of the post.
> second is that it's still not guaranteed to work! the correct joint
> splitter is /guaranteed/ to work. period. no stressing the wrong parts.
> it's also the safest work practice.

Dude! - "overstresses the actual balljoint"???? In what possible way? The
'trick' is to simply insert a 'fulcrum' at the PRECISE POINT you would want
a fulcrum, using the little known fact that as the suspension rises, the
distance between the 2 surfaces where the 'ratchet' goes widens. Thus you
wind up, with the ratchet in place, with a 'super-lever', which will deliver
the near EXACT pull-apart force desired, without even touching the ball
joint. (and they say it's /guaranteed/ to work, every time, 100%!) Most
shops don't have the one tool that is perfect (the one I mentioned), and
just heat the lower arm end with a torch and slam CRAP out of the lower end
with a BFH - that would 'over-stress' the balljoint no end compared to this
method, I'd think. And again, the tool the official manual recomments is a
2-arm gear puller, (that's why I tried one) and gear pullers simply DO NOT
WORK on stuck-hard arms. It took me a long time to track down the reference
to the tool I mentioned, which is the one you 'should' use, if you can
afford it and wait a week for delivery, but even if someone handed me that
tool right now, I would try the ratchet trick on my next go-around, as the
cleverness of it makes it more 'right' than anything (I disagree with your
negatives about this method - doesn't stress the 'wrong parts' at all).
[I've noticed people who have spent $$$ on tools never like to hear about a
clever method which gets around the tool! I LIVE for clever methods - it's
the only thing that elevates car work out of the banal hell-realm most of it
is about.]

>
> dude, all this stuff about being tired & sore makes for injury. chicks
> may dig scars, but they're not so keen on disfigurement. and
> disfigurement is /way/ more expensive than this misconception that you
> can't afford the tool. $60 for the tool is cheap, young grasshopper.

I agree totally, old praying mantis! BUT, as I said, I had NO money for a
$60 tool. I meant that. Rent every month, you know. I'm on the edge of the
abyss. Life is like that sometime (for grasshoppers at least).

 

"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message
news:Jvudnb-JqP3W18feRVn-qA@speakeasy.net...
> glenn wrote:
>> "glenn" <lunaqua@gmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:0715f.3717$BZ5.1523@newssvr13.news.prodigy.co m...
>>
>>>Hi. I'm caught in the old bind of being too poor to get a car that
>>>doesn't

<...snip irrevelant stuff...>

>> * In reference to getting lower control arm free of ball joint: I came
>> across several references to the 'ratchet trick' but didn't know what it
>> was about. Finally tracked it down to one of the best postings I've ever
>> come across in forum 'how-to' discussion: http://tinyurl.com/72zmg
>> There's even a movie showing the trick in work. IF ONLY I HAD KNOWN THIS
>> AT THE TIME!!!!!!!
>
> that is a lucky california trick. and it's bad for 2 reasons. first is
> that it overstresses the actual balljoint. that can lead to premature
> failure of the ball/socket, and in extreme cases, fatigue of the post.
> second is that it's still not guaranteed to work! the correct joint
> splitter is /guaranteed/ to work. period. no stressing the wrong parts.
> it's also the safest work practice.

Dude! - "overstresses the actual balljoint"???? In what possible way? The
'trick' is to simply insert a 'fulcrum' at the PRECISE POINT you would want
a fulcrum, using the little known fact that as the suspension rises, the
distance between the 2 surfaces where the 'ratchet' goes widens. Thus you
wind up, with the ratchet in place, with a 'super-lever', which will deliver
the near EXACT pull-apart force desired, without even touching the ball
joint. (and they say it's /guaranteed/ to work, every time, 100%!) Most
shops don't have the one tool that is perfect (the one I mentioned), and
just heat the lower arm end with a torch and slam CRAP out of the lower end
with a BFH - that would 'over-stress' the balljoint no end compared to this
method, I'd think. And again, the tool the official manual recomments is a
2-arm gear puller, (that's why I tried one) and gear pullers simply DO NOT
WORK on stuck-hard arms. It took me a long time to track down the reference
to the tool I mentioned, which is the one you 'should' use, if you can
afford it and wait a week for delivery, but even if someone handed me that
tool right now, I would try the ratchet trick on my next go-around, as the
cleverness of it makes it more 'right' than anything (I disagree with your
negatives about this method - doesn't stress the 'wrong parts' at all).
[I've noticed people who have spent $$$ on tools never like to hear about a
clever method which gets around the tool! I LIVE for clever methods - it's
the only thing that elevates car work out of the banal hell-realm most of it
is about.]

>
> dude, all this stuff about being tired & sore makes for injury. chicks
> may dig scars, but they're not so keen on disfigurement. and
> disfigurement is /way/ more expensive than this misconception that you
> can't afford the tool. $60 for the tool is cheap, young grasshopper.

I agree totally, old praying mantis! BUT, as I said, I had NO money for a
$60 tool. I meant that. Rent every month, you know. I'm on the edge of the
abyss. Life is like that sometime (for grasshoppers at least).

 

glenn wrote:
> "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message
> news:Jvudnb-JqP3W18feRVn-qA@speakeasy.net...
>
>>glenn wrote:
>>
>>>"glenn" <lunaqua@gmail.com> wrote in message
>>>news:0715f.3717$BZ5.1523@newssvr13.news.prodigy .com...
>>>
>>>
>>>>Hi. I'm caught in the old bind of being too poor to get a car that
>>>>doesn't
>
>
> <...snip irrevelant stuff...>
>
>>>* In reference to getting lower control arm free of ball joint: I came
>>>across several references to the 'ratchet trick' but didn't know what it
>>>was about. Finally tracked it down to one of the best postings I've ever
>>>come across in forum 'how-to' discussion: http://tinyurl.com/72zmg
>>>There's even a movie showing the trick in work. IF ONLY I HAD KNOWN THIS
>>>AT THE TIME!!!!!!!
>>
>>that is a lucky california trick. and it's bad for 2 reasons. first is
>>that it overstresses the actual balljoint. that can lead to premature
>>failure of the ball/socket, and in extreme cases, fatigue of the post.
>>second is that it's still not guaranteed to work! the correct joint
>>splitter is /guaranteed/ to work. period. no stressing the wrong parts.
>>it's also the safest work practice.
>
>
> Dude! - "overstresses the actual balljoint"???? In what possible way? The
> 'trick' is to simply insert a 'fulcrum' at the PRECISE POINT you would want
> a fulcrum, using the little known fact that as the suspension rises, the
> distance between the 2 surfaces where the 'ratchet' goes widens. Thus you
> wind up, with the ratchet in place, with a 'super-lever', which will deliver
> the near EXACT pull-apart force desired, without even touching the ball
> joint. (and they say it's /guaranteed/ to work, every time, 100%!)

i know what a fulcrum is thanks. this method exerts [potentially
several tons] force on the actual balljoint. that can elongate the cup
in which it sits making it loose. in addition, it stresses the stalk
between the ball & the taper - and as tegger can attest, that is a
fatigue point. now, if using your method, it just pops apart without
major drama, you're probably ok, but if it doesn't, and you have to get
rough with it, you're going to cause the damage i describe. the correct
tool exerts no stress on the joint - it's all kept within the post, and
the areas of the post that are best able to cope.

> Most
> shops don't have the one tool that is perfect (the one I mentioned), and
> just heat the lower arm end with a torch and slam CRAP out of the lower end
> with a BFH - that would 'over-stress' the balljoint no end compared to this
> method, I'd think.

two wrongs don't make a right!

> And again, the tool the official manual recomments is a
> 2-arm gear puller, (that's why I tried one) and gear pullers simply DO NOT
> WORK on stuck-hard arms.

i'm not talking about a gear puller. as i told you before, go to
tegger.com and check out the correct tool.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#balljoints

> It took me a long time to track down the reference
> to the tool I mentioned, which is the one you 'should' use, if you can
> afford it and wait a week for delivery, but even if someone handed me that
> tool right now, I would try the ratchet trick on my next go-around, as the
> cleverness of it makes it more 'right' than anything (I disagree with your
> negatives about this method - doesn't stress the 'wrong parts' at all).

sorry, wrong.

> [I've noticed people who have spent $$$ on tools never like to hear about a
> clever method which gets around the tool! I LIVE for clever methods - it's
> the only thing that elevates car work out of the banal hell-realm most of it
> is about.]

so do i, but this isn't one of them.

>
>
>>dude, all this stuff about being tired & sore makes for injury. chicks
>>may dig scars, but they're not so keen on disfigurement. and
>>disfigurement is /way/ more expensive than this misconception that you
>>can't afford the tool. $60 for the tool is cheap, young grasshopper.
>
>
> I agree totally, old praying mantis! BUT, as I said, I had NO money for a
> $60 tool. I meant that. Rent every month, you know. I'm on the edge of the
> abyss. Life is like that sometime (for grasshoppers at least).

what's your emergency room deductible? i'll bet it's more that $60, 2
tanks of gas, so don't b.s. that you've not got the money. sell the
tool again after you're done if you think you'll never use it again. or
rent it. if you can't afford this, you can't afford the car or the
insurance or the licence or the tires or...

 

glenn wrote:
> "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message
> news:Jvudnb-JqP3W18feRVn-qA@speakeasy.net...
>
>>glenn wrote:
>>
>>>"glenn" <lunaqua@gmail.com> wrote in message
>>>news:0715f.3717$BZ5.1523@newssvr13.news.prodigy .com...
>>>
>>>
>>>>Hi. I'm caught in the old bind of being too poor to get a car that
>>>>doesn't
>
>
> <...snip irrevelant stuff...>
>
>>>* In reference to getting lower control arm free of ball joint: I came
>>>across several references to the 'ratchet trick' but didn't know what it
>>>was about. Finally tracked it down to one of the best postings I've ever
>>>come across in forum 'how-to' discussion: http://tinyurl.com/72zmg
>>>There's even a movie showing the trick in work. IF ONLY I HAD KNOWN THIS
>>>AT THE TIME!!!!!!!
>>
>>that is a lucky california trick. and it's bad for 2 reasons. first is
>>that it overstresses the actual balljoint. that can lead to premature
>>failure of the ball/socket, and in extreme cases, fatigue of the post.
>>second is that it's still not guaranteed to work! the correct joint
>>splitter is /guaranteed/ to work. period. no stressing the wrong parts.
>>it's also the safest work practice.
>
>
> Dude! - "overstresses the actual balljoint"???? In what possible way? The
> 'trick' is to simply insert a 'fulcrum' at the PRECISE POINT you would want
> a fulcrum, using the little known fact that as the suspension rises, the
> distance between the 2 surfaces where the 'ratchet' goes widens. Thus you
> wind up, with the ratchet in place, with a 'super-lever', which will deliver
> the near EXACT pull-apart force desired, without even touching the ball
> joint. (and they say it's /guaranteed/ to work, every time, 100%!)

i know what a fulcrum is thanks. this method exerts [potentially
several tons] force on the actual balljoint. that can elongate the cup
in which it sits making it loose. in addition, it stresses the stalk
between the ball & the taper - and as tegger can attest, that is a
fatigue point. now, if using your method, it just pops apart without
major drama, you're probably ok, but if it doesn't, and you have to get
rough with it, you're going to cause the damage i describe. the correct
tool exerts no stress on the joint - it's all kept within the post, and
the areas of the post that are best able to cope.

> Most
> shops don't have the one tool that is perfect (the one I mentioned), and
> just heat the lower arm end with a torch and slam CRAP out of the lower end
> with a BFH - that would 'over-stress' the balljoint no end compared to this
> method, I'd think.

two wrongs don't make a right!

> And again, the tool the official manual recomments is a
> 2-arm gear puller, (that's why I tried one) and gear pullers simply DO NOT
> WORK on stuck-hard arms.

i'm not talking about a gear puller. as i told you before, go to
tegger.com and check out the correct tool.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#balljoints

> It took me a long time to track down the reference
> to the tool I mentioned, which is the one you 'should' use, if you can
> afford it and wait a week for delivery, but even if someone handed me that
> tool right now, I would try the ratchet trick on my next go-around, as the
> cleverness of it makes it more 'right' than anything (I disagree with your
> negatives about this method - doesn't stress the 'wrong parts' at all).

sorry, wrong.

> [I've noticed people who have spent $$$ on tools never like to hear about a
> clever method which gets around the tool! I LIVE for clever methods - it's
> the only thing that elevates car work out of the banal hell-realm most of it
> is about.]

so do i, but this isn't one of them.

>
>
>>dude, all this stuff about being tired & sore makes for injury. chicks
>>may dig scars, but they're not so keen on disfigurement. and
>>disfigurement is /way/ more expensive than this misconception that you
>>can't afford the tool. $60 for the tool is cheap, young grasshopper.
>
>
> I agree totally, old praying mantis! BUT, as I said, I had NO money for a
> $60 tool. I meant that. Rent every month, you know. I'm on the edge of the
> abyss. Life is like that sometime (for grasshoppers at least).

what's your emergency room deductible? i'll bet it's more that $60, 2
tanks of gas, so don't b.s. that you've not got the money. sell the
tool again after you're done if you think you'll never use it again. or
rent it. if you can't afford this, you can't afford the car or the
insurance or the licence or the tires or...

 

"glenn" <lunaqua@gmail.com> wrote in message news:I1p6f.3247$dO2.2065@newssvr29.news.prodigy.ne t...

> I have utterly no idea what you're talking about here, with the 10, 12, 14,
> etc sockets!

The puller isn't required. All you need are these proper tools:

10mm socket drive.
12mm socket drive.
14mm socket drive.
17mm socket drive.
17mm wrench.
??mm socket drive for spindle nut.
1/2 and 3/4 Ratchet
1 socket drive ext.
1 helper to turn the steering.

No hammers and very safe procedures not mentioned in the service
manual. The procedure is a bit complex to describe but if there's any
questions...

> When you say 'in a certain position' - I'm thinking if I just jack up one
> side of the car at a time and do that side's axle, there will be enough tilt
> in the transaxle that no oil will leak out the axle hole? I guess even if
> some does leak out, it won't be much this way, and easy to top off after job
> done.

Right, tilt at a decent height. Whatever drains out, just consider it
normal, but never reuse it. Might work on 5-speed transmissions but can't
say for sure.

Visual aids: tools required.
http://www.yourdictionary.com/ahd/s/s0528900.html
http://www.toolweb.com/pics/KTI24080.jpg
http://www.arizonatools.com/img/prod.../PRO07516S.JPG
http://www.tona.cz/catobr/k_2018.png
http://www.northerntool.com/images/p.../909151_lg.jpg
http://listing.hk.business.yahoo.com...386/121813.jpg

 

"glenn" <lunaqua@gmail.com> wrote in message news:I1p6f.3247$dO2.2065@newssvr29.news.prodigy.ne t...

> I have utterly no idea what you're talking about here, with the 10, 12, 14,
> etc sockets!

The puller isn't required. All you need are these proper tools:

10mm socket drive.
12mm socket drive.
14mm socket drive.
17mm socket drive.
17mm wrench.
??mm socket drive for spindle nut.
1/2 and 3/4 Ratchet
1 socket drive ext.
1 helper to turn the steering.

No hammers and very safe procedures not mentioned in the service
manual. The procedure is a bit complex to describe but if there's any
questions...

> When you say 'in a certain position' - I'm thinking if I just jack up one
> side of the car at a time and do that side's axle, there will be enough tilt
> in the transaxle that no oil will leak out the axle hole? I guess even if
> some does leak out, it won't be much this way, and easy to top off after job
> done.

Right, tilt at a decent height. Whatever drains out, just consider it
normal, but never reuse it. Might work on 5-speed transmissions but can't
say for sure.

Visual aids: tools required.
http://www.yourdictionary.com/ahd/s/s0528900.html
http://www.toolweb.com/pics/KTI24080.jpg
http://www.arizonatools.com/img/prod.../PRO07516S.JPG
http://www.tona.cz/catobr/k_2018.png
http://www.northerntool.com/images/p.../909151_lg.jpg
http://listing.hk.business.yahoo.com...386/121813.jpg

 

"Elle" <elle_navorski@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:BGg6f.79$Rl1.15@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink. net:

> "TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote

>
>> I drive on Southern Ontario roads. These are just like Michigan or
>> Wisconsin. The car has never seen the inside of a garage.
>>
>> It has, however, been drippy-rustproofed every year since new.
>
> What all is "drippy-rustproofed"?



Something that appears to ONLY be available in Ontario and Quebec.
http://www.krown.com/
http://www.rustcheck.com/

It works wonderfully. The best of anything I've ever seen. Better than tthe
waxy or gummy stuff. It does swell weatherstripping and is messy, but those
are good tradeoffs for a car that does not rust.

Northeastern US states could benefit greatly from this, yet it's not sold
there.



>
>> >> I'm going to be doing the fronts next year. I was just going to
>> >> saw the bolts and sleeves apart on either side of the bushing if
>> >> they wouldn't
>> > come
>> >> loose.
>> >
>> > What kind of saw?
>>
>>
>>
>> I was wondering about that. I don't know how hard the sleeves are,
>> which will be what makes the difference. There's room for a hacksaw
>> in between the flanges,
>
> It's tight. Worse, my hacksaw was not very effective. Have several new
> blades handy. If you're not getting anywhere after an hour, I'd urge
> trying something else.



Hm. Not good.



>
>> but I don't know about a reciprocating saw (Sawzall). Would a
>> reciprocating saw risk too much damage to surrounding components?
>
> Even if you can get it in where you want to cut, I'm not sure it will
> actually cut easily through that steel.
>
> I don't think I've seen a good solution for this yet.


Probably why my mechanic refused to consider doing the work.

I asked him if he wanted to change the bushings at the same time as the
clutch if I gave him both jobs at once.


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

"Elle" <elle_navorski@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:BGg6f.79$Rl1.15@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink. net:

> "TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote

>
>> I drive on Southern Ontario roads. These are just like Michigan or
>> Wisconsin. The car has never seen the inside of a garage.
>>
>> It has, however, been drippy-rustproofed every year since new.
>
> What all is "drippy-rustproofed"?



Something that appears to ONLY be available in Ontario and Quebec.
http://www.krown.com/
http://www.rustcheck.com/

It works wonderfully. The best of anything I've ever seen. Better than tthe
waxy or gummy stuff. It does swell weatherstripping and is messy, but those
are good tradeoffs for a car that does not rust.

Northeastern US states could benefit greatly from this, yet it's not sold
there.



>
>> >> I'm going to be doing the fronts next year. I was just going to
>> >> saw the bolts and sleeves apart on either side of the bushing if
>> >> they wouldn't
>> > come
>> >> loose.
>> >
>> > What kind of saw?
>>
>>
>>
>> I was wondering about that. I don't know how hard the sleeves are,
>> which will be what makes the difference. There's room for a hacksaw
>> in between the flanges,
>
> It's tight. Worse, my hacksaw was not very effective. Have several new
> blades handy. If you're not getting anywhere after an hour, I'd urge
> trying something else.



Hm. Not good.



>
>> but I don't know about a reciprocating saw (Sawzall). Would a
>> reciprocating saw risk too much damage to surrounding components?
>
> Even if you can get it in where you want to cut, I'm not sure it will
> actually cut easily through that steel.
>
> I don't think I've seen a good solution for this yet.


Probably why my mechanic refused to consider doing the work.

I asked him if he wanted to change the bushings at the same time as the
clutch if I gave him both jobs at once.


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

cf005@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (M.A. Stewart) wrote in
news:djcio0$gbf$1@theodyn.ncf.ca:

>
> "TeGGeR®" (tegger@tegger.c0m) writes:


<snip>


> If by hacksaw... use quality blades.
>
>>
>>
>> I was wondering about that. I don't know how hard the sleeves are,
>> which will be what makes the difference.
>
> Do you have any of the old sleeves around from your rear end job? Slap
> them in a vice and saw away to see how they cut.


No, I don't have them any more. I took some pics, kept them around for a
few week, then tossed them during a fit of housekeeping zeal.

I guess I could just buy a new one ($15 or so), and try cutting that up.
$15 would be an acceptable price to avoid nightmares later on. In fact, I'm
going to do just that.




--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

cf005@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (M.A. Stewart) wrote in
news:djcio0$gbf$1@theodyn.ncf.ca:

>
> "TeGGeR®" (tegger@tegger.c0m) writes:


<snip>


> If by hacksaw... use quality blades.
>
>>
>>
>> I was wondering about that. I don't know how hard the sleeves are,
>> which will be what makes the difference.
>
> Do you have any of the old sleeves around from your rear end job? Slap
> them in a vice and saw away to see how they cut.


No, I don't have them any more. I took some pics, kept them around for a
few week, then tossed them during a fit of housekeeping zeal.

I guess I could just buy a new one ($15 or so), and try cutting that up.
$15 would be an acceptable price to avoid nightmares later on. In fact, I'm
going to do just that.




--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

cf005@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (M.A. Stewart) wrote in
news:djci7h$g6l$1@theodyn.ncf.ca:

>
> "TeGGeR®" (tegger@tegger.c0m) writes:

<snip>


>> Exactly where would you knock?
>>
>
> On the end of the wood. Insert the splined part of the inner joint
> into the diff.. Push hard. Knock it the rest of the way in with the
> hammer and chunk of wood to seat it. Not much hammer force is needed.
> The wood is bearing on the inner joint. The rag and the wood prevent
> damage to the rubber boot.



It makes sense now.

I didn't know the inner joint would not fit through the damper fork. Never
replaced driveshafts before. Never had to.



>
> I like to put a little bit wheel bearing grease on the spring clip so
> as to suspend the clip concentrically to the center of the shaft
> (splined stub of the inner joint). It gives even compression all the
> way around the clip as it engages the side gear taper.
>
>> I'm starting to get a vibration on acceleration.
>
> Lay out the details of the vibrations. We can only assume that it is
> not the Beach Boys type of vibrations :->



Unfortunately not the Beach Boys kind.

1) The steering wheel waggles slowly 1/4 to 1/2 inch on hard acceleration
as very low speeds.
2) During *acceleration* at highway speeds, the steering wheel vibrates at
almost all speeds, but then stops once you are coasting or decelerating,
which I understand is a classic inner CV joint symptom.

More:
1) Tires are old and worn. When you run your hand over the tread, three
seem to be worn reasonably evenly, with little feathering apparent. One has
excesssive outer rib wear, seemingly due to excessive toe that existed on
the rear before I replaced the bushings and had the car realigned.
2) There is one bent wheel that has been that way for 13 years. It
contributes to the 60-70mph vibration at highway speeds when that wheel is
on the front. I have a spare wheel and will replace bent one in the spring.
3) Front bushings are very worn and saggy. Perhaps they are allowing
excessive suspension movement?

Mechanic insists my inner CV joints are fine, that the problem is most
likely the tires.

Inner and outer CV joint boots have never split. I've always had the outer
boots replaced at the first sign of cracking.

How can I test the inner CV joints on-the-car (without a hoist) myself?



--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

cf005@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (M.A. Stewart) wrote in
news:djci7h$g6l$1@theodyn.ncf.ca:

>
> "TeGGeR®" (tegger@tegger.c0m) writes:

<snip>


>> Exactly where would you knock?
>>
>
> On the end of the wood. Insert the splined part of the inner joint
> into the diff.. Push hard. Knock it the rest of the way in with the
> hammer and chunk of wood to seat it. Not much hammer force is needed.
> The wood is bearing on the inner joint. The rag and the wood prevent
> damage to the rubber boot.



It makes sense now.

I didn't know the inner joint would not fit through the damper fork. Never
replaced driveshafts before. Never had to.



>
> I like to put a little bit wheel bearing grease on the spring clip so
> as to suspend the clip concentrically to the center of the shaft
> (splined stub of the inner joint). It gives even compression all the
> way around the clip as it engages the side gear taper.
>
>> I'm starting to get a vibration on acceleration.
>
> Lay out the details of the vibrations. We can only assume that it is
> not the Beach Boys type of vibrations :->



Unfortunately not the Beach Boys kind.

1) The steering wheel waggles slowly 1/4 to 1/2 inch on hard acceleration
as very low speeds.
2) During *acceleration* at highway speeds, the steering wheel vibrates at
almost all speeds, but then stops once you are coasting or decelerating,
which I understand is a classic inner CV joint symptom.

More:
1) Tires are old and worn. When you run your hand over the tread, three
seem to be worn reasonably evenly, with little feathering apparent. One has
excesssive outer rib wear, seemingly due to excessive toe that existed on
the rear before I replaced the bushings and had the car realigned.
2) There is one bent wheel that has been that way for 13 years. It
contributes to the 60-70mph vibration at highway speeds when that wheel is
on the front. I have a spare wheel and will replace bent one in the spring.
3) Front bushings are very worn and saggy. Perhaps they are allowing
excessive suspension movement?

Mechanic insists my inner CV joints are fine, that the problem is most
likely the tires.

Inner and outer CV joint boots have never split. I've always had the outer
boots replaced at the first sign of cracking.

How can I test the inner CV joints on-the-car (without a hoist) myself?



--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

cf005@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (M.A. Stewart) wrote in
news:djci7h$g6l$1@theodyn.ncf.ca:

<snip>

>
> Ahh... here's a challenge for you... replace the lower control arm
> bushings with hand tools only!... no cheating, no friendly machine
> shop with a press, no acetylene torch. Think "hone the holes to fit
> bushings". Think brake cylinder hone... vernier caliper (or inside
> mike)... micrometer... what's the best interference fit so I can whack
> those suckers in with my $2.99 Kmart carpenter hammer!


A challenge of course, but so is using Windows without a mouse. Sure, it
*can* be done, but why would you want to? There's a reason technology
marches forward and mice and air wrenches get invented.

I actually tried renting an electric impact gun, but I waited too long and
all were rented out for the weekend, so I was limited to Teggerdraulics.

By the time I had the rear suspension apart, I was more than happy to have
the machine shop knock the old bushings out and replace with new. I did
replace the stabilizer bar and link bushings myself with the help of a vise
and silicone grease.

Keep in mind this car is my daily driver. I HAD to have the job finished by
Monday AM, so I could not take a few days to experiment.

I pulled it apart Friday afternoon and evening, brought the parts to the
machine shop Saturday AM, and picked them up again Saturday afternoon. I
finished the job Sunday.
Most of Saturday that weekend I was visiting my mother in the hospital,
where she'd just had a hip-joint replacement, so I didn't have as much time
as I ordinarily would.



--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

cf005@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (M.A. Stewart) wrote in
news:djci7h$g6l$1@theodyn.ncf.ca:

<snip>

>
> Ahh... here's a challenge for you... replace the lower control arm
> bushings with hand tools only!... no cheating, no friendly machine
> shop with a press, no acetylene torch. Think "hone the holes to fit
> bushings". Think brake cylinder hone... vernier caliper (or inside
> mike)... micrometer... what's the best interference fit so I can whack
> those suckers in with my $2.99 Kmart carpenter hammer!


A challenge of course, but so is using Windows without a mouse. Sure, it
*can* be done, but why would you want to? There's a reason technology
marches forward and mice and air wrenches get invented.

I actually tried renting an electric impact gun, but I waited too long and
all were rented out for the weekend, so I was limited to Teggerdraulics.

By the time I had the rear suspension apart, I was more than happy to have
the machine shop knock the old bushings out and replace with new. I did
replace the stabilizer bar and link bushings myself with the help of a vise
and silicone grease.

Keep in mind this car is my daily driver. I HAD to have the job finished by
Monday AM, so I could not take a few days to experiment.

I pulled it apart Friday afternoon and evening, brought the parts to the
machine shop Saturday AM, and picked them up again Saturday afternoon. I
finished the job Sunday.
Most of Saturday that weekend I was visiting my mother in the hospital,
where she'd just had a hip-joint replacement, so I didn't have as much time
as I ordinarily would.



--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/