I failed to mention in my previous post "Brake replacement question."
That the squealing was starting before I replaced the brakes It would
stop when I press the pedal. Now after bendix parts installed same
thing is happening. It is now happeing intermittently due to putting
on new shims and permatex brake quiet. I have heard everything from
shims, to OEM parts are needed to sticking caliper. I would think if
it were the caliper that it would be more consistent.

 

On 9/14/07 1:28 PM, in article
1189794529.551555.13000@22g2000hsm.googlegroups.co m, "bigjcw1023@gmail.com"
<bigjcw1023@gmail.com> wrote:

> I failed to mention in my previous post "Brake replacement question."
> That the squealing was starting before I replaced the brakes It would
> stop when I press the pedal. Now after bendix parts installed same
> thing is happening. It is now happeing intermittently due to putting
> on new shims and permatex brake quiet. I have heard everything from
> shims, to OEM parts are needed to sticking caliper. I would think if
> it were the caliper that it would be more consistent.
>

Have you checked that there's nothing wedged between the splash shield & the
rotor?

 

On 9/14/07 1:28 PM, in article
1189794529.551555.13000@22g2000hsm.googlegroups.co m, "bigjcw1023@gmail.com"
<bigjcw1023@gmail.com> wrote:

> I failed to mention in my previous post "Brake replacement question."
> That the squealing was starting before I replaced the brakes It would
> stop when I press the pedal. Now after bendix parts installed same
> thing is happening. It is now happeing intermittently due to putting
> on new shims and permatex brake quiet. I have heard everything from
> shims, to OEM parts are needed to sticking caliper. I would think if
> it were the caliper that it would be more consistent.
>

Have you checked that there's nothing wedged between the splash shield & the
rotor?

 

(bigjcw1023@gmail.com) writes:
> I failed to mention in my previous post "Brake replacement question."
> That the squealing was starting before I replaced the brakes It would
> stop when I press the pedal. Now after bendix parts installed same
> thing is happening. It is now happeing intermittently due to putting
> on new shims and permatex brake quiet. I have heard everything from
> shims, to OEM parts are needed to sticking caliper. I would think if
> it were the caliper that it would be more consistent.
>


Try bevelling the leading and trailing edge of your brake pad linings.
Put a 45 Deg. bevel on them with a file. Make the width of the new bevelled
surface about one eighth of an inch (leading and trailing edges). Just wipe the
other two edges with the file at the same 45 Deg. (width would be a scuff).
Simple and easy to do, and may get rid of the noise. No guarantees... but
it won't hurt to try it.

When filing anything, never drag the file backwards on your work, always
lift it off your work, after your cutting stroke. Dragging the file
backwards dulls the file.

 

(bigjcw1023@gmail.com) writes:
> I failed to mention in my previous post "Brake replacement question."
> That the squealing was starting before I replaced the brakes It would
> stop when I press the pedal. Now after bendix parts installed same
> thing is happening. It is now happeing intermittently due to putting
> on new shims and permatex brake quiet. I have heard everything from
> shims, to OEM parts are needed to sticking caliper. I would think if
> it were the caliper that it would be more consistent.
>


Try bevelling the leading and trailing edge of your brake pad linings.
Put a 45 Deg. bevel on them with a file. Make the width of the new bevelled
surface about one eighth of an inch (leading and trailing edges). Just wipe the
other two edges with the file at the same 45 Deg. (width would be a scuff).
Simple and easy to do, and may get rid of the noise. No guarantees... but
it won't hurt to try it.

When filing anything, never drag the file backwards on your work, always
lift it off your work, after your cutting stroke. Dragging the file
backwards dulls the file.

 

bigjcw1023@gmail.com wrote in news:1189794529.551555.13000@
22g2000hsm.googlegroups.com:

> I failed to mention in my previous post "Brake replacement question."
> That the squealing was starting before I replaced the brakes It would
> stop when I press the pedal. Now after bendix parts installed same
> thing is happening. It is now happeing intermittently due to putting
> on new shims and permatex brake quiet. I have heard everything from
> shims, to OEM parts are needed to sticking caliper. I would think if
> it were the caliper that it would be more consistent.
>


Have you tried the very simple expedient of doing your brakes exactly the
way Honda designed and intended?

So far, after twenty-five years, *every single case* of brake noise I have
ever encountered (besides those covered by TSB) have been due to
aftermarket parts, or to incorrect servicing.

You need a competent pro here. That competent pro would be working at your
local Honda dealer.

Get rid of those aftermarket <gag> parts and your problem is largely
solved.

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

bigjcw1023@gmail.com wrote in news:1189794529.551555.13000@
22g2000hsm.googlegroups.com:

> I failed to mention in my previous post "Brake replacement question."
> That the squealing was starting before I replaced the brakes It would
> stop when I press the pedal. Now after bendix parts installed same
> thing is happening. It is now happeing intermittently due to putting
> on new shims and permatex brake quiet. I have heard everything from
> shims, to OEM parts are needed to sticking caliper. I would think if
> it were the caliper that it would be more consistent.
>


Have you tried the very simple expedient of doing your brakes exactly the
way Honda designed and intended?

So far, after twenty-five years, *every single case* of brake noise I have
ever encountered (besides those covered by TSB) have been due to
aftermarket parts, or to incorrect servicing.

You need a competent pro here. That competent pro would be working at your
local Honda dealer.

Get rid of those aftermarket <gag> parts and your problem is largely
solved.

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

M.A. Stewart wrote:
.. . . .
> When filing anything, never drag the file backwards on your work, always
> lift it off your work, after your cutting stroke. Dragging the file
> backwards dulls the file.

------------------------------

Our shop teacher said it was OK for soft metals like brass or aluminum,
since the backstroke 'cleans' the file.

 

M.A. Stewart wrote:
.. . . .
> When filing anything, never drag the file backwards on your work, always
> lift it off your work, after your cutting stroke. Dragging the file
> backwards dulls the file.

------------------------------

Our shop teacher said it was OK for soft metals like brass or aluminum,
since the backstroke 'cleans' the file.

 

motsco_ (motsco_@interbaun.com) writes:
> M.A. Stewart wrote:
> . . . .
>> When filing anything, never drag the file backwards on your work, always
>> lift it off your work, after your cutting stroke. Dragging the file
>> backwards dulls the file.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Our shop teacher said it was OK for soft metals like brass or aluminum,
> since the backstroke 'cleans' the file.

But the finish won't be as nice. Debris will jam into the surface.

 

motsco_ (motsco_@interbaun.com) writes:
> M.A. Stewart wrote:
> . . . .
>> When filing anything, never drag the file backwards on your work, always
>> lift it off your work, after your cutting stroke. Dragging the file
>> backwards dulls the file.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Our shop teacher said it was OK for soft metals like brass or aluminum,
> since the backstroke 'cleans' the file.

But the finish won't be as nice. Debris will jam into the surface.

 

On Sep 15, 9:43 pm, cf...@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (M.A. Stewart) wrote:
> motsco_ (mots...@interbaun.com) writes:
> > M.A. Stewart wrote:
> > . . . .
> >> When filing anything, never drag the file backwards on your work, always
> >> lift it off your work, after your cutting stroke. Dragging the file
> >> backwards dulls the file.
>
> > ------------------------------
>
> > Our shop teacher said it was OK for soft metals like brass or aluminum,
> > since the backstroke 'cleans' the file.
>
> But the finish won't be as nice. Debris will jam into the surface.

Why don't you take photos of your brakes disassembled and assembled
and post them here. This is very interesting. The other thing is why
are some focusing on a filing method. Burnished pads are least likely
to squeal. If the file stroke is so important so as to not contaminate
the file on the back stroke, why don't have a new file for each
forward stroke.

 

On Sep 15, 9:43 pm, cf...@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (M.A. Stewart) wrote:
> motsco_ (mots...@interbaun.com) writes:
> > M.A. Stewart wrote:
> > . . . .
> >> When filing anything, never drag the file backwards on your work, always
> >> lift it off your work, after your cutting stroke. Dragging the file
> >> backwards dulls the file.
>
> > ------------------------------
>
> > Our shop teacher said it was OK for soft metals like brass or aluminum,
> > since the backstroke 'cleans' the file.
>
> But the finish won't be as nice. Debris will jam into the surface.

Why don't you take photos of your brakes disassembled and assembled
and post them here. This is very interesting. The other thing is why
are some focusing on a filing method. Burnished pads are least likely
to squeal. If the file stroke is so important so as to not contaminate
the file on the back stroke, why don't have a new file for each
forward stroke.