Air/Fuel Mixture adjustment
10-31-2003 | 04:18 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Air/Fuel Mixture adjustment
Ok, I took out the carburetor ('87 Honda Accord LX) and put in a new kit
(gaskets, o-rings). I also replaced almost every hose I could lay my hands
on. The ones I couldn't replace and that were in good condition I also
clamped the connecting ends.
Now:
1) Engine still stays up in the 2500-2900 rpm (connected tachometer, the
dash tachometer is about 300-400 rpm higher). My manual (Helm) says to
check the dashpot system if the warm idle rpm is too high. There is vacuum
on hose #6 (the one connecting to the throttle controller) and you can also
see the rod from the throttle controller moving when you connect the hose.
The next cause can be air/fuel mixture adjustment. Here the manuals says to
check the dashpot system first (which I did) and that the warm idle rpm
should be 800 +-50. But as you can see my car's rpm is too high. Should I
go ahead and adjust the air/fuel mixture starting at that high rpm?
2) Both the manual and the carb kit instructions say to remove the mixture
adjustment screw cap and leave it removed in order to perform the air/fuel
mixture adjustment. The thing is that I had to remove so much stuff to get
that carburetor out (hoses, idle boost throttle controller, etc, etc). The
maze of hoses and metal tubes between the carburetor and the firewall make
this a non-trivial task!!! After I adjust the air/fuel mixture, is it
really necessary to put the cap back in...? Or can I do without it (so that
I don't have to remove all that stuff again...
3) I tested the secondary diaphragm (to the right of the throttle
controller, in front of the carburetor) and the rod moves when you appply
vacuum and the vacuum holds. However the rod doesn't move that much... just
enough for you to notice that the diaphragm is responding to the applied
vacuum. Is this normal for this type of test?
4) THREE adjusting screws!!!! The throttle stop screw (back of carburator
facing the firewall; has a plastic ****) is a pain to get to, but wait!...
the fast idle adjustment screw is almost impossible to get to......(below
the throttle adjustment screw) Which one should I fiddle with first to get
the idle speed down to what is should be? Also, on the throttle stop screw,
increasing rpm is clockwise our counterclockwise? Right now the engine
doesn't seem to respond to major movements (1 complete turn either way) on
the throttle stop screw. It just stays high. Or maybe I'm just way way out
of speck and need to keep moving the throttle stop screw until there is a
noticeable difference in rpm? But again, which way is up?
5) I continue to look around for disconnected hoses or hoses that don't look
too good in order to replace them... I haven't been able to find any vacuum
leaks (yet).
Please help!
MC
(gaskets, o-rings). I also replaced almost every hose I could lay my hands
on. The ones I couldn't replace and that were in good condition I also
clamped the connecting ends.
Now:
1) Engine still stays up in the 2500-2900 rpm (connected tachometer, the
dash tachometer is about 300-400 rpm higher). My manual (Helm) says to
check the dashpot system if the warm idle rpm is too high. There is vacuum
on hose #6 (the one connecting to the throttle controller) and you can also
see the rod from the throttle controller moving when you connect the hose.
The next cause can be air/fuel mixture adjustment. Here the manuals says to
check the dashpot system first (which I did) and that the warm idle rpm
should be 800 +-50. But as you can see my car's rpm is too high. Should I
go ahead and adjust the air/fuel mixture starting at that high rpm?
2) Both the manual and the carb kit instructions say to remove the mixture
adjustment screw cap and leave it removed in order to perform the air/fuel
mixture adjustment. The thing is that I had to remove so much stuff to get
that carburetor out (hoses, idle boost throttle controller, etc, etc). The
maze of hoses and metal tubes between the carburetor and the firewall make
this a non-trivial task!!! After I adjust the air/fuel mixture, is it
really necessary to put the cap back in...? Or can I do without it (so that
I don't have to remove all that stuff again...
3) I tested the secondary diaphragm (to the right of the throttle
controller, in front of the carburetor) and the rod moves when you appply
vacuum and the vacuum holds. However the rod doesn't move that much... just
enough for you to notice that the diaphragm is responding to the applied
vacuum. Is this normal for this type of test?
4) THREE adjusting screws!!!! The throttle stop screw (back of carburator
facing the firewall; has a plastic ****) is a pain to get to, but wait!...
the fast idle adjustment screw is almost impossible to get to......(below
the throttle adjustment screw) Which one should I fiddle with first to get
the idle speed down to what is should be? Also, on the throttle stop screw,
increasing rpm is clockwise our counterclockwise? Right now the engine
doesn't seem to respond to major movements (1 complete turn either way) on
the throttle stop screw. It just stays high. Or maybe I'm just way way out
of speck and need to keep moving the throttle stop screw until there is a
noticeable difference in rpm? But again, which way is up?
5) I continue to look around for disconnected hoses or hoses that don't look
too good in order to replace them... I haven't been able to find any vacuum
leaks (yet).
Please help!
MC
10-31-2003 | 05:34 PM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Air/Fuel Mixture adjustment
You could try a can of carb cleaner. With the engine running, spray all
the places you think could be leaking. If the carb cleaner goes in a
leaking spot, the engine will slow or stop. bob
MC wrote:
>
> Ok, I took out the carburetor ('87 Honda Accord LX) and put in a new kit
> (gaskets, o-rings). I also replaced almost every hose I could lay my hands
> on. The ones I couldn't replace and that were in good condition I also
> clamped the connecting ends.
>
> Now:
>
> 1) Engine still stays up in the 2500-2900 rpm (connected tachometer, the
> dash tachometer is about 300-400 rpm higher). My manual (Helm) says to
> check the dashpot system if the warm idle rpm is too high. There is vacuum
> on hose #6 (the one connecting to the throttle controller) and you can also
> see the rod from the throttle controller moving when you connect the hose.
> The next cause can be air/fuel mixture adjustment. Here the manuals says to
> check the dashpot system first (which I did) and that the warm idle rpm
> should be 800 +-50. But as you can see my car's rpm is too high. Should I
> go ahead and adjust the air/fuel mixture starting at that high rpm?
>
> 2) Both the manual and the carb kit instructions say to remove the mixture
> adjustment screw cap and leave it removed in order to perform the air/fuel
> mixture adjustment. The thing is that I had to remove so much stuff to get
> that carburetor out (hoses, idle boost throttle controller, etc, etc). The
> maze of hoses and metal tubes between the carburetor and the firewall make
> this a non-trivial task!!! After I adjust the air/fuel mixture, is it
> really necessary to put the cap back in...? Or can I do without it (so that
> I don't have to remove all that stuff again...
>
> 3) I tested the secondary diaphragm (to the right of the throttle
> controller, in front of the carburetor) and the rod moves when you appply
> vacuum and the vacuum holds. However the rod doesn't move that much... just
> enough for you to notice that the diaphragm is responding to the applied
> vacuum. Is this normal for this type of test?
>
> 4) THREE adjusting screws!!!! The throttle stop screw (back of carburator
> facing the firewall; has a plastic ****) is a pain to get to, but wait!...
> the fast idle adjustment screw is almost impossible to get to......(below
> the throttle adjustment screw) Which one should I fiddle with first to get
> the idle speed down to what is should be? Also, on the throttle stop screw,
> increasing rpm is clockwise our counterclockwise? Right now the engine
> doesn't seem to respond to major movements (1 complete turn either way) on
> the throttle stop screw. It just stays high. Or maybe I'm just way way out
> of speck and need to keep moving the throttle stop screw until there is a
> noticeable difference in rpm? But again, which way is up?
>
> 5) I continue to look around for disconnected hoses or hoses that don't look
> too good in order to replace them... I haven't been able to find any vacuum
> leaks (yet).
>
> Please help!
>
> MC
the places you think could be leaking. If the carb cleaner goes in a
leaking spot, the engine will slow or stop. bob
MC wrote:
>
> Ok, I took out the carburetor ('87 Honda Accord LX) and put in a new kit
> (gaskets, o-rings). I also replaced almost every hose I could lay my hands
> on. The ones I couldn't replace and that were in good condition I also
> clamped the connecting ends.
>
> Now:
>
> 1) Engine still stays up in the 2500-2900 rpm (connected tachometer, the
> dash tachometer is about 300-400 rpm higher). My manual (Helm) says to
> check the dashpot system if the warm idle rpm is too high. There is vacuum
> on hose #6 (the one connecting to the throttle controller) and you can also
> see the rod from the throttle controller moving when you connect the hose.
> The next cause can be air/fuel mixture adjustment. Here the manuals says to
> check the dashpot system first (which I did) and that the warm idle rpm
> should be 800 +-50. But as you can see my car's rpm is too high. Should I
> go ahead and adjust the air/fuel mixture starting at that high rpm?
>
> 2) Both the manual and the carb kit instructions say to remove the mixture
> adjustment screw cap and leave it removed in order to perform the air/fuel
> mixture adjustment. The thing is that I had to remove so much stuff to get
> that carburetor out (hoses, idle boost throttle controller, etc, etc). The
> maze of hoses and metal tubes between the carburetor and the firewall make
> this a non-trivial task!!! After I adjust the air/fuel mixture, is it
> really necessary to put the cap back in...? Or can I do without it (so that
> I don't have to remove all that stuff again...
>
> 3) I tested the secondary diaphragm (to the right of the throttle
> controller, in front of the carburetor) and the rod moves when you appply
> vacuum and the vacuum holds. However the rod doesn't move that much... just
> enough for you to notice that the diaphragm is responding to the applied
> vacuum. Is this normal for this type of test?
>
> 4) THREE adjusting screws!!!! The throttle stop screw (back of carburator
> facing the firewall; has a plastic ****) is a pain to get to, but wait!...
> the fast idle adjustment screw is almost impossible to get to......(below
> the throttle adjustment screw) Which one should I fiddle with first to get
> the idle speed down to what is should be? Also, on the throttle stop screw,
> increasing rpm is clockwise our counterclockwise? Right now the engine
> doesn't seem to respond to major movements (1 complete turn either way) on
> the throttle stop screw. It just stays high. Or maybe I'm just way way out
> of speck and need to keep moving the throttle stop screw until there is a
> noticeable difference in rpm? But again, which way is up?
>
> 5) I continue to look around for disconnected hoses or hoses that don't look
> too good in order to replace them... I haven't been able to find any vacuum
> leaks (yet).
>
> Please help!
>
> MC
10-31-2003 | 05:34 PM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Air/Fuel Mixture adjustment
You could try a can of carb cleaner. With the engine running, spray all
the places you think could be leaking. If the carb cleaner goes in a
leaking spot, the engine will slow or stop. bob
MC wrote:
>
> Ok, I took out the carburetor ('87 Honda Accord LX) and put in a new kit
> (gaskets, o-rings). I also replaced almost every hose I could lay my hands
> on. The ones I couldn't replace and that were in good condition I also
> clamped the connecting ends.
>
> Now:
>
> 1) Engine still stays up in the 2500-2900 rpm (connected tachometer, the
> dash tachometer is about 300-400 rpm higher). My manual (Helm) says to
> check the dashpot system if the warm idle rpm is too high. There is vacuum
> on hose #6 (the one connecting to the throttle controller) and you can also
> see the rod from the throttle controller moving when you connect the hose.
> The next cause can be air/fuel mixture adjustment. Here the manuals says to
> check the dashpot system first (which I did) and that the warm idle rpm
> should be 800 +-50. But as you can see my car's rpm is too high. Should I
> go ahead and adjust the air/fuel mixture starting at that high rpm?
>
> 2) Both the manual and the carb kit instructions say to remove the mixture
> adjustment screw cap and leave it removed in order to perform the air/fuel
> mixture adjustment. The thing is that I had to remove so much stuff to get
> that carburetor out (hoses, idle boost throttle controller, etc, etc). The
> maze of hoses and metal tubes between the carburetor and the firewall make
> this a non-trivial task!!! After I adjust the air/fuel mixture, is it
> really necessary to put the cap back in...? Or can I do without it (so that
> I don't have to remove all that stuff again...
>
> 3) I tested the secondary diaphragm (to the right of the throttle
> controller, in front of the carburetor) and the rod moves when you appply
> vacuum and the vacuum holds. However the rod doesn't move that much... just
> enough for you to notice that the diaphragm is responding to the applied
> vacuum. Is this normal for this type of test?
>
> 4) THREE adjusting screws!!!! The throttle stop screw (back of carburator
> facing the firewall; has a plastic ****) is a pain to get to, but wait!...
> the fast idle adjustment screw is almost impossible to get to......(below
> the throttle adjustment screw) Which one should I fiddle with first to get
> the idle speed down to what is should be? Also, on the throttle stop screw,
> increasing rpm is clockwise our counterclockwise? Right now the engine
> doesn't seem to respond to major movements (1 complete turn either way) on
> the throttle stop screw. It just stays high. Or maybe I'm just way way out
> of speck and need to keep moving the throttle stop screw until there is a
> noticeable difference in rpm? But again, which way is up?
>
> 5) I continue to look around for disconnected hoses or hoses that don't look
> too good in order to replace them... I haven't been able to find any vacuum
> leaks (yet).
>
> Please help!
>
> MC
the places you think could be leaking. If the carb cleaner goes in a
leaking spot, the engine will slow or stop. bob
MC wrote:
>
> Ok, I took out the carburetor ('87 Honda Accord LX) and put in a new kit
> (gaskets, o-rings). I also replaced almost every hose I could lay my hands
> on. The ones I couldn't replace and that were in good condition I also
> clamped the connecting ends.
>
> Now:
>
> 1) Engine still stays up in the 2500-2900 rpm (connected tachometer, the
> dash tachometer is about 300-400 rpm higher). My manual (Helm) says to
> check the dashpot system if the warm idle rpm is too high. There is vacuum
> on hose #6 (the one connecting to the throttle controller) and you can also
> see the rod from the throttle controller moving when you connect the hose.
> The next cause can be air/fuel mixture adjustment. Here the manuals says to
> check the dashpot system first (which I did) and that the warm idle rpm
> should be 800 +-50. But as you can see my car's rpm is too high. Should I
> go ahead and adjust the air/fuel mixture starting at that high rpm?
>
> 2) Both the manual and the carb kit instructions say to remove the mixture
> adjustment screw cap and leave it removed in order to perform the air/fuel
> mixture adjustment. The thing is that I had to remove so much stuff to get
> that carburetor out (hoses, idle boost throttle controller, etc, etc). The
> maze of hoses and metal tubes between the carburetor and the firewall make
> this a non-trivial task!!! After I adjust the air/fuel mixture, is it
> really necessary to put the cap back in...? Or can I do without it (so that
> I don't have to remove all that stuff again...
>
> 3) I tested the secondary diaphragm (to the right of the throttle
> controller, in front of the carburetor) and the rod moves when you appply
> vacuum and the vacuum holds. However the rod doesn't move that much... just
> enough for you to notice that the diaphragm is responding to the applied
> vacuum. Is this normal for this type of test?
>
> 4) THREE adjusting screws!!!! The throttle stop screw (back of carburator
> facing the firewall; has a plastic ****) is a pain to get to, but wait!...
> the fast idle adjustment screw is almost impossible to get to......(below
> the throttle adjustment screw) Which one should I fiddle with first to get
> the idle speed down to what is should be? Also, on the throttle stop screw,
> increasing rpm is clockwise our counterclockwise? Right now the engine
> doesn't seem to respond to major movements (1 complete turn either way) on
> the throttle stop screw. It just stays high. Or maybe I'm just way way out
> of speck and need to keep moving the throttle stop screw until there is a
> noticeable difference in rpm? But again, which way is up?
>
> 5) I continue to look around for disconnected hoses or hoses that don't look
> too good in order to replace them... I haven't been able to find any vacuum
> leaks (yet).
>
> Please help!
>
> MC
10-31-2003 | 05:34 PM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Air/Fuel Mixture adjustment
You could try a can of carb cleaner. With the engine running, spray all
the places you think could be leaking. If the carb cleaner goes in a
leaking spot, the engine will slow or stop. bob
MC wrote:
>
> Ok, I took out the carburetor ('87 Honda Accord LX) and put in a new kit
> (gaskets, o-rings). I also replaced almost every hose I could lay my hands
> on. The ones I couldn't replace and that were in good condition I also
> clamped the connecting ends.
>
> Now:
>
> 1) Engine still stays up in the 2500-2900 rpm (connected tachometer, the
> dash tachometer is about 300-400 rpm higher). My manual (Helm) says to
> check the dashpot system if the warm idle rpm is too high. There is vacuum
> on hose #6 (the one connecting to the throttle controller) and you can also
> see the rod from the throttle controller moving when you connect the hose.
> The next cause can be air/fuel mixture adjustment. Here the manuals says to
> check the dashpot system first (which I did) and that the warm idle rpm
> should be 800 +-50. But as you can see my car's rpm is too high. Should I
> go ahead and adjust the air/fuel mixture starting at that high rpm?
>
> 2) Both the manual and the carb kit instructions say to remove the mixture
> adjustment screw cap and leave it removed in order to perform the air/fuel
> mixture adjustment. The thing is that I had to remove so much stuff to get
> that carburetor out (hoses, idle boost throttle controller, etc, etc). The
> maze of hoses and metal tubes between the carburetor and the firewall make
> this a non-trivial task!!! After I adjust the air/fuel mixture, is it
> really necessary to put the cap back in...? Or can I do without it (so that
> I don't have to remove all that stuff again...
>
> 3) I tested the secondary diaphragm (to the right of the throttle
> controller, in front of the carburetor) and the rod moves when you appply
> vacuum and the vacuum holds. However the rod doesn't move that much... just
> enough for you to notice that the diaphragm is responding to the applied
> vacuum. Is this normal for this type of test?
>
> 4) THREE adjusting screws!!!! The throttle stop screw (back of carburator
> facing the firewall; has a plastic ****) is a pain to get to, but wait!...
> the fast idle adjustment screw is almost impossible to get to......(below
> the throttle adjustment screw) Which one should I fiddle with first to get
> the idle speed down to what is should be? Also, on the throttle stop screw,
> increasing rpm is clockwise our counterclockwise? Right now the engine
> doesn't seem to respond to major movements (1 complete turn either way) on
> the throttle stop screw. It just stays high. Or maybe I'm just way way out
> of speck and need to keep moving the throttle stop screw until there is a
> noticeable difference in rpm? But again, which way is up?
>
> 5) I continue to look around for disconnected hoses or hoses that don't look
> too good in order to replace them... I haven't been able to find any vacuum
> leaks (yet).
>
> Please help!
>
> MC
the places you think could be leaking. If the carb cleaner goes in a
leaking spot, the engine will slow or stop. bob
MC wrote:
>
> Ok, I took out the carburetor ('87 Honda Accord LX) and put in a new kit
> (gaskets, o-rings). I also replaced almost every hose I could lay my hands
> on. The ones I couldn't replace and that were in good condition I also
> clamped the connecting ends.
>
> Now:
>
> 1) Engine still stays up in the 2500-2900 rpm (connected tachometer, the
> dash tachometer is about 300-400 rpm higher). My manual (Helm) says to
> check the dashpot system if the warm idle rpm is too high. There is vacuum
> on hose #6 (the one connecting to the throttle controller) and you can also
> see the rod from the throttle controller moving when you connect the hose.
> The next cause can be air/fuel mixture adjustment. Here the manuals says to
> check the dashpot system first (which I did) and that the warm idle rpm
> should be 800 +-50. But as you can see my car's rpm is too high. Should I
> go ahead and adjust the air/fuel mixture starting at that high rpm?
>
> 2) Both the manual and the carb kit instructions say to remove the mixture
> adjustment screw cap and leave it removed in order to perform the air/fuel
> mixture adjustment. The thing is that I had to remove so much stuff to get
> that carburetor out (hoses, idle boost throttle controller, etc, etc). The
> maze of hoses and metal tubes between the carburetor and the firewall make
> this a non-trivial task!!! After I adjust the air/fuel mixture, is it
> really necessary to put the cap back in...? Or can I do without it (so that
> I don't have to remove all that stuff again...
>
> 3) I tested the secondary diaphragm (to the right of the throttle
> controller, in front of the carburetor) and the rod moves when you appply
> vacuum and the vacuum holds. However the rod doesn't move that much... just
> enough for you to notice that the diaphragm is responding to the applied
> vacuum. Is this normal for this type of test?
>
> 4) THREE adjusting screws!!!! The throttle stop screw (back of carburator
> facing the firewall; has a plastic ****) is a pain to get to, but wait!...
> the fast idle adjustment screw is almost impossible to get to......(below
> the throttle adjustment screw) Which one should I fiddle with first to get
> the idle speed down to what is should be? Also, on the throttle stop screw,
> increasing rpm is clockwise our counterclockwise? Right now the engine
> doesn't seem to respond to major movements (1 complete turn either way) on
> the throttle stop screw. It just stays high. Or maybe I'm just way way out
> of speck and need to keep moving the throttle stop screw until there is a
> noticeable difference in rpm? But again, which way is up?
>
> 5) I continue to look around for disconnected hoses or hoses that don't look
> too good in order to replace them... I haven't been able to find any vacuum
> leaks (yet).
>
> Please help!
>
> MC
10-31-2003 | 05:34 PM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Air/Fuel Mixture adjustment
You could try a can of carb cleaner. With the engine running, spray all
the places you think could be leaking. If the carb cleaner goes in a
leaking spot, the engine will slow or stop. bob
MC wrote:
>
> Ok, I took out the carburetor ('87 Honda Accord LX) and put in a new kit
> (gaskets, o-rings). I also replaced almost every hose I could lay my hands
> on. The ones I couldn't replace and that were in good condition I also
> clamped the connecting ends.
>
> Now:
>
> 1) Engine still stays up in the 2500-2900 rpm (connected tachometer, the
> dash tachometer is about 300-400 rpm higher). My manual (Helm) says to
> check the dashpot system if the warm idle rpm is too high. There is vacuum
> on hose #6 (the one connecting to the throttle controller) and you can also
> see the rod from the throttle controller moving when you connect the hose.
> The next cause can be air/fuel mixture adjustment. Here the manuals says to
> check the dashpot system first (which I did) and that the warm idle rpm
> should be 800 +-50. But as you can see my car's rpm is too high. Should I
> go ahead and adjust the air/fuel mixture starting at that high rpm?
>
> 2) Both the manual and the carb kit instructions say to remove the mixture
> adjustment screw cap and leave it removed in order to perform the air/fuel
> mixture adjustment. The thing is that I had to remove so much stuff to get
> that carburetor out (hoses, idle boost throttle controller, etc, etc). The
> maze of hoses and metal tubes between the carburetor and the firewall make
> this a non-trivial task!!! After I adjust the air/fuel mixture, is it
> really necessary to put the cap back in...? Or can I do without it (so that
> I don't have to remove all that stuff again...
>
> 3) I tested the secondary diaphragm (to the right of the throttle
> controller, in front of the carburetor) and the rod moves when you appply
> vacuum and the vacuum holds. However the rod doesn't move that much... just
> enough for you to notice that the diaphragm is responding to the applied
> vacuum. Is this normal for this type of test?
>
> 4) THREE adjusting screws!!!! The throttle stop screw (back of carburator
> facing the firewall; has a plastic ****) is a pain to get to, but wait!...
> the fast idle adjustment screw is almost impossible to get to......(below
> the throttle adjustment screw) Which one should I fiddle with first to get
> the idle speed down to what is should be? Also, on the throttle stop screw,
> increasing rpm is clockwise our counterclockwise? Right now the engine
> doesn't seem to respond to major movements (1 complete turn either way) on
> the throttle stop screw. It just stays high. Or maybe I'm just way way out
> of speck and need to keep moving the throttle stop screw until there is a
> noticeable difference in rpm? But again, which way is up?
>
> 5) I continue to look around for disconnected hoses or hoses that don't look
> too good in order to replace them... I haven't been able to find any vacuum
> leaks (yet).
>
> Please help!
>
> MC
the places you think could be leaking. If the carb cleaner goes in a
leaking spot, the engine will slow or stop. bob
MC wrote:
>
> Ok, I took out the carburetor ('87 Honda Accord LX) and put in a new kit
> (gaskets, o-rings). I also replaced almost every hose I could lay my hands
> on. The ones I couldn't replace and that were in good condition I also
> clamped the connecting ends.
>
> Now:
>
> 1) Engine still stays up in the 2500-2900 rpm (connected tachometer, the
> dash tachometer is about 300-400 rpm higher). My manual (Helm) says to
> check the dashpot system if the warm idle rpm is too high. There is vacuum
> on hose #6 (the one connecting to the throttle controller) and you can also
> see the rod from the throttle controller moving when you connect the hose.
> The next cause can be air/fuel mixture adjustment. Here the manuals says to
> check the dashpot system first (which I did) and that the warm idle rpm
> should be 800 +-50. But as you can see my car's rpm is too high. Should I
> go ahead and adjust the air/fuel mixture starting at that high rpm?
>
> 2) Both the manual and the carb kit instructions say to remove the mixture
> adjustment screw cap and leave it removed in order to perform the air/fuel
> mixture adjustment. The thing is that I had to remove so much stuff to get
> that carburetor out (hoses, idle boost throttle controller, etc, etc). The
> maze of hoses and metal tubes between the carburetor and the firewall make
> this a non-trivial task!!! After I adjust the air/fuel mixture, is it
> really necessary to put the cap back in...? Or can I do without it (so that
> I don't have to remove all that stuff again...
>
> 3) I tested the secondary diaphragm (to the right of the throttle
> controller, in front of the carburetor) and the rod moves when you appply
> vacuum and the vacuum holds. However the rod doesn't move that much... just
> enough for you to notice that the diaphragm is responding to the applied
> vacuum. Is this normal for this type of test?
>
> 4) THREE adjusting screws!!!! The throttle stop screw (back of carburator
> facing the firewall; has a plastic ****) is a pain to get to, but wait!...
> the fast idle adjustment screw is almost impossible to get to......(below
> the throttle adjustment screw) Which one should I fiddle with first to get
> the idle speed down to what is should be? Also, on the throttle stop screw,
> increasing rpm is clockwise our counterclockwise? Right now the engine
> doesn't seem to respond to major movements (1 complete turn either way) on
> the throttle stop screw. It just stays high. Or maybe I'm just way way out
> of speck and need to keep moving the throttle stop screw until there is a
> noticeable difference in rpm? But again, which way is up?
>
> 5) I continue to look around for disconnected hoses or hoses that don't look
> too good in order to replace them... I haven't been able to find any vacuum
> leaks (yet).
>
> Please help!
>
> MC
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10-26-2003 01:36 PM
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