Jeff wrote:
>
> hold on, on all the super careful advice because i'm buying another car
> anyway and i am just getting the parts installed but want it done right
> and test the car out. if it acts up and a valve is bent it will run
> terrible but i'm confident that's not the case.

a lack of empirical experience tends to breed false confidence.

your original post mentioned that you were driving on the freeway when the
belt broke, this is a worst case scenario. the engine died with the
transmission in gear thus it will keep spinning for a few rotations and the
pistons will kiss the valves since theyre no longer in time.

 

"Jeff" <jeffscomp@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
news:sJoDg.11393$gY6.5185@newssvr11.news.prodigy.c om:

> hold on, on all the super careful advice because i'm buying another
> car anyway and i am just getting the parts installed but want it done
> right and test the car out. if it acts up and a valve is bent it will
> run terrible but i'm confident that's not the case. i just need to
> know about the TDC question and what to look for.



Once you get the crank pulley off, the timing belt cog has a TDC mark on
it. The cam pulley also has an alignment mark on it. You line the two up
properly (and I mean PROPERLY) and Bob's your uncle.

You do need to make sure TDC is compression, which means both crank and cam
marks have to line up at the same time.


> i'm not replacing
> any pulleys


No, but you do have to take them off when replacing the timing belt, hence
the other posters' admonishments.



> and i don't think the water pump requires any sealant but
> it might help.


Do not put sealant on the water pump flange. Just scrape smooth and use a
new gasket.


> i'm not replacing the tensioner either for the timing
> belt.



You have to if it's worn. If you skimp on stuff like that just to keep your
sale costs down, remind me never to buy a used car from you.



> it was leaking antifreeze onto the timing belt and that caused
> the slipping.



What? If it was leaking bad enough to make the belt jump, either the belt
was too loose, it was too old, or you were using silicated coolant.

--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

"Jeff" <jeffscomp@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
news:sJoDg.11393$gY6.5185@newssvr11.news.prodigy.c om:

> hold on, on all the super careful advice because i'm buying another
> car anyway and i am just getting the parts installed but want it done
> right and test the car out. if it acts up and a valve is bent it will
> run terrible but i'm confident that's not the case. i just need to
> know about the TDC question and what to look for.



Once you get the crank pulley off, the timing belt cog has a TDC mark on
it. The cam pulley also has an alignment mark on it. You line the two up
properly (and I mean PROPERLY) and Bob's your uncle.

You do need to make sure TDC is compression, which means both crank and cam
marks have to line up at the same time.


> i'm not replacing
> any pulleys


No, but you do have to take them off when replacing the timing belt, hence
the other posters' admonishments.



> and i don't think the water pump requires any sealant but
> it might help.


Do not put sealant on the water pump flange. Just scrape smooth and use a
new gasket.


> i'm not replacing the tensioner either for the timing
> belt.



You have to if it's worn. If you skimp on stuff like that just to keep your
sale costs down, remind me never to buy a used car from you.



> it was leaking antifreeze onto the timing belt and that caused
> the slipping.



What? If it was leaking bad enough to make the belt jump, either the belt
was too loose, it was too old, or you were using silicated coolant.

--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

"Jeff" <jeffscomp@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
news:sJoDg.11393$gY6.5185@newssvr11.news.prodigy.c om:

> hold on, on all the super careful advice because i'm buying another
> car anyway and i am just getting the parts installed but want it done
> right and test the car out. if it acts up and a valve is bent it will
> run terrible but i'm confident that's not the case. i just need to
> know about the TDC question and what to look for.



Once you get the crank pulley off, the timing belt cog has a TDC mark on
it. The cam pulley also has an alignment mark on it. You line the two up
properly (and I mean PROPERLY) and Bob's your uncle.

You do need to make sure TDC is compression, which means both crank and cam
marks have to line up at the same time.


> i'm not replacing
> any pulleys


No, but you do have to take them off when replacing the timing belt, hence
the other posters' admonishments.



> and i don't think the water pump requires any sealant but
> it might help.


Do not put sealant on the water pump flange. Just scrape smooth and use a
new gasket.


> i'm not replacing the tensioner either for the timing
> belt.



You have to if it's worn. If you skimp on stuff like that just to keep your
sale costs down, remind me never to buy a used car from you.



> it was leaking antifreeze onto the timing belt and that caused
> the slipping.



What? If it was leaking bad enough to make the belt jump, either the belt
was too loose, it was too old, or you were using silicated coolant.

--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/