>
> Back in March I posted to this group about my 99 civic not starting. I
> replaced the distributor cap and rotor back in march, and it has
> started everytime since, until today. Today, it seems like a very
> similar problem, although the rotor and distributor cap are fine. When
> I turn the key, the starter whirs, and I hear a few clicks. I think
> the fuel pump is fine (I need to make sure tonight, but I seem to
> remember hearing it click on this morning). I do hear a few clicks
> while the starter is running, coming from the engine.
>
> A few mentioned the main relay, which if the fuel pump is coming on
> then it isn't that, and a few others mentioned ignition switch or the
> ignitor. How can you determine that?
>
> Also, maybe a stupid question, but how do you check for spark? I
> wonder (and kind of hope because they are easy to replace) if it is the
> spark plug wires.
>
> Thanks for any additional help.
>
=========================

'Clicks' from the engine while cranking can indicate a broken timing
belt. Don't bother checking for spark if the rotor doesn't turn while
the engine is spinning. . . . .The engine will spin a lot faster than
normal because the valves and pistons never develop any compression. :-(

'Curly'

 

>
> Back in March I posted to this group about my 99 civic not starting. I
> replaced the distributor cap and rotor back in march, and it has
> started everytime since, until today. Today, it seems like a very
> similar problem, although the rotor and distributor cap are fine. When
> I turn the key, the starter whirs, and I hear a few clicks. I think
> the fuel pump is fine (I need to make sure tonight, but I seem to
> remember hearing it click on this morning). I do hear a few clicks
> while the starter is running, coming from the engine.
>
> A few mentioned the main relay, which if the fuel pump is coming on
> then it isn't that, and a few others mentioned ignition switch or the
> ignitor. How can you determine that?
>
> Also, maybe a stupid question, but how do you check for spark? I
> wonder (and kind of hope because they are easy to replace) if it is the
> spark plug wires.
>
> Thanks for any additional help.
>
=========================

'Clicks' from the engine while cranking can indicate a broken timing
belt. Don't bother checking for spark if the rotor doesn't turn while
the engine is spinning. . . . .The engine will spin a lot faster than
normal because the valves and pistons never develop any compression. :-(

'Curly'

 

Oops -- missed the 'clicking from the engine' part of the message.
Yup, agree with the other posts: it is most likely the timing belt.

Sorry to hear about that.
Remco

"RemcoW" <whybcuz@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:Qzamd.6430$GV4.7439227@news4.srv.hcvlny.cv.ne t...
> Hi
>
> If the starter runs, but much quicker (you say it 'whirrs'?) than normal
it
> could be that the starter is bad; normally the gears are supposed to
engage
> to the mating end on the engine and it could be that the starter is just
> spinning without actually turning the engine over. In this case you will
not
> see a spark, so I'd make sure of that first.
>
> If your starter is good and you do need to test for spark, you may want to
> get a simple widget (<$6, I think it was) they sell at autozone/pepboys:
it
> has a sparkplug looking connector on one end, a 'roach clip' on the other
> and an adjustable airgap in the middle. It will let you test for spark
> without having someone else start the engine. Hook it instead of one
> sparkplug and start the engine -- if you have a spark, you will see it.
>
> If your starter is good and you don't see a spark, make sure your rotor
(the
> thing under the cap) is indeed turning - if it isn't, you probably have a
> broken timing belt.
> Of course, check the cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc.
> If none of that is the problem, check to make sure you are getting power
to
> your distributor.
>
> (The following I actually learned on this newsgroup and it works well. I
had
> been using a scope before, but the following is way easier)
> The ignitor you can check by putting a 12V lightbulb across the primary
of
> your coil. If you see the bulb flash when you are starting, your ignitor
is
> good -- if it doesn't, disconnect your coil and try again: a coil could
fail
> shorted and will cause it not to flash.
> If it still doesn't flash, your ignitor is probably bad. If it does
flash,
> I'd check the coil.
>
> Hope this helps you fix the problem.
> Remco
>
>
>
>
> <donotemailme@ekkinc.com> wrote in message
> news:1100550588.918586.254710@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> > EKK wrote:
> > > "'Curly Q. Links'" <motsco__@interbaun.com> wrote in message
> > news:<404563FF.8CCBECB0@interbaun.com>...
> > > > EKK wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I have a 99 Honda Civic with just under 90K miles on it that
> > won't
> > > > > start. This first happened on Sunday morning - it started fine
> > but
> > > > > when it reached idling speed, it quickly died. Ran for 1-2
> > seconds at
> > > > > the most. Now it doesn't start at all, and when I turn the key
> > it
> > > > > sounds like the starter is fine, maybe running a little faster /
> > > > > louder than before.
> > > >
> > > > =================
> > > >
> > > > Remove the distributor cap, spin engine and see if rotor turns in
> > > > distributor. If not, timing belt is broken.
> > > >
> > > > 'Curly'
> > > >
> > > > ===============
> > > > --
> > >
> > > Thanks to everyone for all of the advice. It needs a new distributor
> > > rotor (and a tune up in general...)
> >
> > Back in March I posted to this group about my 99 civic not starting. I
> > replaced the distributor cap and rotor back in march, and it has
> > started everytime since, until today. Today, it seems like a very
> > similar problem, although the rotor and distributor cap are fine. When
> > I turn the key, the starter whirs, and I hear a few clicks. I think
> > the fuel pump is fine (I need to make sure tonight, but I seem to
> > remember hearing it click on this morning). I do hear a few clicks
> > while the starter is running, coming from the engine.
> >
> > A few mentioned the main relay, which if the fuel pump is coming on
> > then it isn't that, and a few others mentioned ignition switch or the
> > ignitor. How can you determine that?
> >
> > Also, maybe a stupid question, but how do you check for spark? I
> > wonder (and kind of hope because they are easy to replace) if it is the
> > spark plug wires.
> >
> > Thanks for any additional help.
> >
>
>

 

Oops -- missed the 'clicking from the engine' part of the message.
Yup, agree with the other posts: it is most likely the timing belt.

Sorry to hear about that.
Remco

"RemcoW" <whybcuz@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:Qzamd.6430$GV4.7439227@news4.srv.hcvlny.cv.ne t...
> Hi
>
> If the starter runs, but much quicker (you say it 'whirrs'?) than normal
it
> could be that the starter is bad; normally the gears are supposed to
engage
> to the mating end on the engine and it could be that the starter is just
> spinning without actually turning the engine over. In this case you will
not
> see a spark, so I'd make sure of that first.
>
> If your starter is good and you do need to test for spark, you may want to
> get a simple widget (<$6, I think it was) they sell at autozone/pepboys:
it
> has a sparkplug looking connector on one end, a 'roach clip' on the other
> and an adjustable airgap in the middle. It will let you test for spark
> without having someone else start the engine. Hook it instead of one
> sparkplug and start the engine -- if you have a spark, you will see it.
>
> If your starter is good and you don't see a spark, make sure your rotor
(the
> thing under the cap) is indeed turning - if it isn't, you probably have a
> broken timing belt.
> Of course, check the cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc.
> If none of that is the problem, check to make sure you are getting power
to
> your distributor.
>
> (The following I actually learned on this newsgroup and it works well. I
had
> been using a scope before, but the following is way easier)
> The ignitor you can check by putting a 12V lightbulb across the primary
of
> your coil. If you see the bulb flash when you are starting, your ignitor
is
> good -- if it doesn't, disconnect your coil and try again: a coil could
fail
> shorted and will cause it not to flash.
> If it still doesn't flash, your ignitor is probably bad. If it does
flash,
> I'd check the coil.
>
> Hope this helps you fix the problem.
> Remco
>
>
>
>
> <donotemailme@ekkinc.com> wrote in message
> news:1100550588.918586.254710@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> > EKK wrote:
> > > "'Curly Q. Links'" <motsco__@interbaun.com> wrote in message
> > news:<404563FF.8CCBECB0@interbaun.com>...
> > > > EKK wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I have a 99 Honda Civic with just under 90K miles on it that
> > won't
> > > > > start. This first happened on Sunday morning - it started fine
> > but
> > > > > when it reached idling speed, it quickly died. Ran for 1-2
> > seconds at
> > > > > the most. Now it doesn't start at all, and when I turn the key
> > it
> > > > > sounds like the starter is fine, maybe running a little faster /
> > > > > louder than before.
> > > >
> > > > =================
> > > >
> > > > Remove the distributor cap, spin engine and see if rotor turns in
> > > > distributor. If not, timing belt is broken.
> > > >
> > > > 'Curly'
> > > >
> > > > ===============
> > > > --
> > >
> > > Thanks to everyone for all of the advice. It needs a new distributor
> > > rotor (and a tune up in general...)
> >
> > Back in March I posted to this group about my 99 civic not starting. I
> > replaced the distributor cap and rotor back in march, and it has
> > started everytime since, until today. Today, it seems like a very
> > similar problem, although the rotor and distributor cap are fine. When
> > I turn the key, the starter whirs, and I hear a few clicks. I think
> > the fuel pump is fine (I need to make sure tonight, but I seem to
> > remember hearing it click on this morning). I do hear a few clicks
> > while the starter is running, coming from the engine.
> >
> > A few mentioned the main relay, which if the fuel pump is coming on
> > then it isn't that, and a few others mentioned ignition switch or the
> > ignitor. How can you determine that?
> >
> > Also, maybe a stupid question, but how do you check for spark? I
> > wonder (and kind of hope because they are easy to replace) if it is the
> > spark plug wires.
> >
> > Thanks for any additional help.
> >
>
>

 

remcow wrote:
> Oops -- missed the 'clicking from the engine' part of the message.
> Yup, agree with the other posts: it is most likely the timing belt.
>
> Sorry to hear about that.
> Remco
>
> "RemcoW" <whybcuz@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:Qzamd.6430$GV4.7439227@news4.srv.hcvlny.cv.ne t...
> > Hi
> >
> > If the starter runs, but much quicker (you say it 'whirrs'?) than
normal
> it
> > could be that the starter is bad; normally the gears are supposed
to
> engage
> > to the mating end on the engine and it could be that the starter is
just
> > spinning without actually turning the engine over. In this case you
will
> not
> > see a spark, so I'd make sure of that first.
> >
> > If your starter is good and you do need to test for spark, you may
want to
> > get a simple widget (<$6, I think it was) they sell at
autozone/pepboys:
> it
> > has a sparkplug looking connector on one end, a 'roach clip' on the
other
> > and an adjustable airgap in the middle. It will let you test for
spark
> > without having someone else start the engine. Hook it instead of
one
> > sparkplug and start the engine -- if you have a spark, you will see
it.
> >
> > If your starter is good and you don't see a spark, make sure your
rotor
> (the
> > thing under the cap) is indeed turning - if it isn't, you probably
have a
> > broken timing belt.
> > Of course, check the cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc.
> > If none of that is the problem, check to make sure you are getting
power
> to
> > your distributor.
> >
> > (The following I actually learned on this newsgroup and it works
well. I
> had
> > been using a scope before, but the following is way easier)
> > The ignitor you can check by putting a 12V lightbulb across the
primary
> of
> > your coil. If you see the bulb flash when you are starting, your
ignitor
> is
> > good -- if it doesn't, disconnect your coil and try again: a coil
could
> fail
> > shorted and will cause it not to flash.
> > If it still doesn't flash, your ignitor is probably bad. If it
does
> flash,
> > I'd check the coil.
> >
> > Hope this helps you fix the problem.
> > Remco
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > <donotemailme@ekkinc.com> wrote in message
> > news:1100550588.918586.254710@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> > > EKK wrote:
> > > > "'Curly Q. Links'" <motsco__@interbaun.com> wrote in message
> > > news:<404563FF.8CCBECB0@interbaun.com>...
> > > > > EKK wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I have a 99 Honda Civic with just under 90K miles on it
that
> > > won't
> > > > > > start. This first happened on Sunday morning - it started
fine
> > > but
> > > > > > when it reached idling speed, it quickly died. Ran for 1-2
> > > seconds at
> > > > > > the most. Now it doesn't start at all, and when I turn the
key
> > > it
> > > > > > sounds like the starter is fine, maybe running a little
faster /
> > > > > > louder than before.
> > > > >
> > > > > =================
> > > > >
> > > > > Remove the distributor cap, spin engine and see if rotor
turns in
> > > > > distributor. If not, timing belt is broken.
> > > > >
> > > > > 'Curly'
> > > > >
> > > > > ===============
> > > > > --
> > > >
> > > > Thanks to everyone for all of the advice. It needs a new
distributor
> > > > rotor (and a tune up in general...)
> > >
> > > Back in March I posted to this group about my 99 civic not
starting. I
> > > replaced the distributor cap and rotor back in march, and it has
> > > started everytime since, until today. Today, it seems like a
very
> > > similar problem, although the rotor and distributor cap are fine.
When
> > > I turn the key, the starter whirs, and I hear a few clicks. I
think
> > > the fuel pump is fine (I need to make sure tonight, but I seem to
> > > remember hearing it click on this morning). I do hear a few
clicks
> > > while the starter is running, coming from the engine.
> > >
> > > A few mentioned the main relay, which if the fuel pump is coming
on
> > > then it isn't that, and a few others mentioned ignition switch or
the
> > > ignitor. How can you determine that?
> > >
> > > Also, maybe a stupid question, but how do you check for spark? I
> > > wonder (and kind of hope because they are easy to replace) if it
is the
> > > spark plug wires.
> > >
> > > Thanks for any additional help.
> > >
> >
> >

Remcow,

Thanks for the thorough responses. The rotor definitely turns, so I
don't think it is the timing belt. The clicking I hear is infrequent
and not very loud.

Ken

 

remcow wrote:
> Oops -- missed the 'clicking from the engine' part of the message.
> Yup, agree with the other posts: it is most likely the timing belt.
>
> Sorry to hear about that.
> Remco
>
> "RemcoW" <whybcuz@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:Qzamd.6430$GV4.7439227@news4.srv.hcvlny.cv.ne t...
> > Hi
> >
> > If the starter runs, but much quicker (you say it 'whirrs'?) than
normal
> it
> > could be that the starter is bad; normally the gears are supposed
to
> engage
> > to the mating end on the engine and it could be that the starter is
just
> > spinning without actually turning the engine over. In this case you
will
> not
> > see a spark, so I'd make sure of that first.
> >
> > If your starter is good and you do need to test for spark, you may
want to
> > get a simple widget (<$6, I think it was) they sell at
autozone/pepboys:
> it
> > has a sparkplug looking connector on one end, a 'roach clip' on the
other
> > and an adjustable airgap in the middle. It will let you test for
spark
> > without having someone else start the engine. Hook it instead of
one
> > sparkplug and start the engine -- if you have a spark, you will see
it.
> >
> > If your starter is good and you don't see a spark, make sure your
rotor
> (the
> > thing under the cap) is indeed turning - if it isn't, you probably
have a
> > broken timing belt.
> > Of course, check the cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc.
> > If none of that is the problem, check to make sure you are getting
power
> to
> > your distributor.
> >
> > (The following I actually learned on this newsgroup and it works
well. I
> had
> > been using a scope before, but the following is way easier)
> > The ignitor you can check by putting a 12V lightbulb across the
primary
> of
> > your coil. If you see the bulb flash when you are starting, your
ignitor
> is
> > good -- if it doesn't, disconnect your coil and try again: a coil
could
> fail
> > shorted and will cause it not to flash.
> > If it still doesn't flash, your ignitor is probably bad. If it
does
> flash,
> > I'd check the coil.
> >
> > Hope this helps you fix the problem.
> > Remco
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > <donotemailme@ekkinc.com> wrote in message
> > news:1100550588.918586.254710@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> > > EKK wrote:
> > > > "'Curly Q. Links'" <motsco__@interbaun.com> wrote in message
> > > news:<404563FF.8CCBECB0@interbaun.com>...
> > > > > EKK wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I have a 99 Honda Civic with just under 90K miles on it
that
> > > won't
> > > > > > start. This first happened on Sunday morning - it started
fine
> > > but
> > > > > > when it reached idling speed, it quickly died. Ran for 1-2
> > > seconds at
> > > > > > the most. Now it doesn't start at all, and when I turn the
key
> > > it
> > > > > > sounds like the starter is fine, maybe running a little
faster /
> > > > > > louder than before.
> > > > >
> > > > > =================
> > > > >
> > > > > Remove the distributor cap, spin engine and see if rotor
turns in
> > > > > distributor. If not, timing belt is broken.
> > > > >
> > > > > 'Curly'
> > > > >
> > > > > ===============
> > > > > --
> > > >
> > > > Thanks to everyone for all of the advice. It needs a new
distributor
> > > > rotor (and a tune up in general...)
> > >
> > > Back in March I posted to this group about my 99 civic not
starting. I
> > > replaced the distributor cap and rotor back in march, and it has
> > > started everytime since, until today. Today, it seems like a
very
> > > similar problem, although the rotor and distributor cap are fine.
When
> > > I turn the key, the starter whirs, and I hear a few clicks. I
think
> > > the fuel pump is fine (I need to make sure tonight, but I seem to
> > > remember hearing it click on this morning). I do hear a few
clicks
> > > while the starter is running, coming from the engine.
> > >
> > > A few mentioned the main relay, which if the fuel pump is coming
on
> > > then it isn't that, and a few others mentioned ignition switch or
the
> > > ignitor. How can you determine that?
> > >
> > > Also, maybe a stupid question, but how do you check for spark? I
> > > wonder (and kind of hope because they are easy to replace) if it
is the
> > > spark plug wires.
> > >
> > > Thanks for any additional help.
> > >
> >
> >

Remcow,

Thanks for the thorough responses. The rotor definitely turns, so I
don't think it is the timing belt. The clicking I hear is infrequent
and not very loud.

Ken

 

Hey Ken

Glad to hear it may not be your timing belt because that is an
expensive repair.
You may not want to rule it out completely, because it could be that
it jumped a couple of teeth and the timing of the car is now totally
wrong, causing it not to start.
Check for spark first using that inexpensive widget described below (I
think autozone sells it). If you find you have spark and gas (I am
assuming the injectors are working for now), you can check the timing
with a timing light.

If you don't have spark, the clicking might be a clue:
You say the clicking isn't particularly lound -- is it a metalic
clicking?
Maybe the distributor is clicking if something is loose on the inside,
but I'd imagine you would still see a spark somewhere since your rotor
is turning.

I wonder if this clicking isn't actually the sound high voltage arcing
would make. It could be arcing from the coil to the distributor case,
for instance.

You can check the coil with a ohm meter, but that is only a static
test -- it can still arc through the case. You'd see relatively low
impedance on the primary (maybe 7-10 ohms or so) and high impedance in
the secondary (about 11K or so).

If the coil measures ok statically, I'd take the cap off and have
someone else briefly start the car while you observe arcing somewhere
- maybe darken th engine compartment somehow so you can see it
clearly. If you see arcing from the coil, replace it (you may want to
shop around on the internet for one, because dealer prices are
insane).

If you don't see anything, since you have the cap off perhaps try the
light bulb test (described below) to make sure your ignitor works.

Hope you find it soon.
Remco


donotemailme@ekkinc.com wrote in message news:<1100571980.954623.279320@f14g2000cwb.googleg roups.com>...
> remcow wrote:
> > Oops -- missed the 'clicking from the engine' part of the message.
> > Yup, agree with the other posts: it is most likely the timing belt.
> >
> > Sorry to hear about that.
> > Remco
> >
> > "RemcoW" <whybcuz@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:Qzamd.6430$GV4.7439227@news4.srv.hcvlny.cv.ne t...
> > > Hi
> > >
> > > If the starter runs, but much quicker (you say it 'whirrs'?) than
> normal
> it
> > > could be that the starter is bad; normally the gears are supposed
> to
> engage
> > > to the mating end on the engine and it could be that the starter is
> just
> > > spinning without actually turning the engine over. In this case you
> will
> not
> > > see a spark, so I'd make sure of that first.
> > >
> > > If your starter is good and you do need to test for spark, you may
> want to
> > > get a simple widget (<$6, I think it was) they sell at
> autozone/pepboys:
> it
> > > has a sparkplug looking connector on one end, a 'roach clip' on the
> other
> > > and an adjustable airgap in the middle. It will let you test for
> spark
> > > without having someone else start the engine. Hook it instead of
> one
> > > sparkplug and start the engine -- if you have a spark, you will see
> it.
> > >
> > > If your starter is good and you don't see a spark, make sure your
> rotor
> (the
> > > thing under the cap) is indeed turning - if it isn't, you probably
> have a
> > > broken timing belt.
> > > Of course, check the cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc.
> > > If none of that is the problem, check to make sure you are getting
> power
> to
> > > your distributor.
> > >
> > > (The following I actually learned on this newsgroup and it works
> well. I
> had
> > > been using a scope before, but the following is way easier)
> > > The ignitor you can check by putting a 12V lightbulb across the
> primary
> of
> > > your coil. If you see the bulb flash when you are starting, your
> ignitor
> is
> > > good -- if it doesn't, disconnect your coil and try again: a coil
> could
> fail
> > > shorted and will cause it not to flash.
> > > If it still doesn't flash, your ignitor is probably bad. If it
> does
> flash,
> > > I'd check the coil.
> > >
> > > Hope this helps you fix the problem.
> > > Remco
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > <donotemailme@ekkinc.com> wrote in message
> > > news:1100550588.918586.254710@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> > > > EKK wrote:
> > > > > "'Curly Q. Links'" <motsco__@interbaun.com> wrote in message
> news:<404563FF.8CCBECB0@interbaun.com>...
> > > > > > EKK wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I have a 99 Honda Civic with just under 90K miles on it
> that
> won't
> > > > > > > start. This first happened on Sunday morning - it started
> fine
> but
> > > > > > > when it reached idling speed, it quickly died. Ran for 1-2
> seconds at
> > > > > > > the most. Now it doesn't start at all, and when I turn the
> key
> it
> > > > > > > sounds like the starter is fine, maybe running a little
> faster /
> > > > > > > louder than before.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > =================
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Remove the distributor cap, spin engine and see if rotor
> turns in
> > > > > > distributor. If not, timing belt is broken.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > 'Curly'
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ===============
> > > > > > --
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks to everyone for all of the advice. It needs a new
> distributor
> > > > > rotor (and a tune up in general...)
> > > >
> > > > Back in March I posted to this group about my 99 civic not
> starting. I
> > > > replaced the distributor cap and rotor back in march, and it has
> > > > started everytime since, until today. Today, it seems like a
> very
> > > > similar problem, although the rotor and distributor cap are fine.
> When
> > > > I turn the key, the starter whirs, and I hear a few clicks. I
> think
> > > > the fuel pump is fine (I need to make sure tonight, but I seem to
> > > > remember hearing it click on this morning). I do hear a few
> clicks
> > > > while the starter is running, coming from the engine.
> > > >
> > > > A few mentioned the main relay, which if the fuel pump is coming
> on
> > > > then it isn't that, and a few others mentioned ignition switch or
> the
> > > > ignitor. How can you determine that?
> > > >
> > > > Also, maybe a stupid question, but how do you check for spark? I
> > > > wonder (and kind of hope because they are easy to replace) if it
> is the
> > > > spark plug wires.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for any additional help.
> > > >
> > >
> > >
>
> Remcow,
>
> Thanks for the thorough responses. The rotor definitely turns, so I
> don't think it is the timing belt. The clicking I hear is infrequent
> and not very loud.
>
> Ken

 

Hey Ken

Glad to hear it may not be your timing belt because that is an
expensive repair.
You may not want to rule it out completely, because it could be that
it jumped a couple of teeth and the timing of the car is now totally
wrong, causing it not to start.
Check for spark first using that inexpensive widget described below (I
think autozone sells it). If you find you have spark and gas (I am
assuming the injectors are working for now), you can check the timing
with a timing light.

If you don't have spark, the clicking might be a clue:
You say the clicking isn't particularly lound -- is it a metalic
clicking?
Maybe the distributor is clicking if something is loose on the inside,
but I'd imagine you would still see a spark somewhere since your rotor
is turning.

I wonder if this clicking isn't actually the sound high voltage arcing
would make. It could be arcing from the coil to the distributor case,
for instance.

You can check the coil with a ohm meter, but that is only a static
test -- it can still arc through the case. You'd see relatively low
impedance on the primary (maybe 7-10 ohms or so) and high impedance in
the secondary (about 11K or so).

If the coil measures ok statically, I'd take the cap off and have
someone else briefly start the car while you observe arcing somewhere
- maybe darken th engine compartment somehow so you can see it
clearly. If you see arcing from the coil, replace it (you may want to
shop around on the internet for one, because dealer prices are
insane).

If you don't see anything, since you have the cap off perhaps try the
light bulb test (described below) to make sure your ignitor works.

Hope you find it soon.
Remco


donotemailme@ekkinc.com wrote in message news:<1100571980.954623.279320@f14g2000cwb.googleg roups.com>...
> remcow wrote:
> > Oops -- missed the 'clicking from the engine' part of the message.
> > Yup, agree with the other posts: it is most likely the timing belt.
> >
> > Sorry to hear about that.
> > Remco
> >
> > "RemcoW" <whybcuz@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:Qzamd.6430$GV4.7439227@news4.srv.hcvlny.cv.ne t...
> > > Hi
> > >
> > > If the starter runs, but much quicker (you say it 'whirrs'?) than
> normal
> it
> > > could be that the starter is bad; normally the gears are supposed
> to
> engage
> > > to the mating end on the engine and it could be that the starter is
> just
> > > spinning without actually turning the engine over. In this case you
> will
> not
> > > see a spark, so I'd make sure of that first.
> > >
> > > If your starter is good and you do need to test for spark, you may
> want to
> > > get a simple widget (<$6, I think it was) they sell at
> autozone/pepboys:
> it
> > > has a sparkplug looking connector on one end, a 'roach clip' on the
> other
> > > and an adjustable airgap in the middle. It will let you test for
> spark
> > > without having someone else start the engine. Hook it instead of
> one
> > > sparkplug and start the engine -- if you have a spark, you will see
> it.
> > >
> > > If your starter is good and you don't see a spark, make sure your
> rotor
> (the
> > > thing under the cap) is indeed turning - if it isn't, you probably
> have a
> > > broken timing belt.
> > > Of course, check the cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc.
> > > If none of that is the problem, check to make sure you are getting
> power
> to
> > > your distributor.
> > >
> > > (The following I actually learned on this newsgroup and it works
> well. I
> had
> > > been using a scope before, but the following is way easier)
> > > The ignitor you can check by putting a 12V lightbulb across the
> primary
> of
> > > your coil. If you see the bulb flash when you are starting, your
> ignitor
> is
> > > good -- if it doesn't, disconnect your coil and try again: a coil
> could
> fail
> > > shorted and will cause it not to flash.
> > > If it still doesn't flash, your ignitor is probably bad. If it
> does
> flash,
> > > I'd check the coil.
> > >
> > > Hope this helps you fix the problem.
> > > Remco
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > <donotemailme@ekkinc.com> wrote in message
> > > news:1100550588.918586.254710@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> > > > EKK wrote:
> > > > > "'Curly Q. Links'" <motsco__@interbaun.com> wrote in message
> news:<404563FF.8CCBECB0@interbaun.com>...
> > > > > > EKK wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I have a 99 Honda Civic with just under 90K miles on it
> that
> won't
> > > > > > > start. This first happened on Sunday morning - it started
> fine
> but
> > > > > > > when it reached idling speed, it quickly died. Ran for 1-2
> seconds at
> > > > > > > the most. Now it doesn't start at all, and when I turn the
> key
> it
> > > > > > > sounds like the starter is fine, maybe running a little
> faster /
> > > > > > > louder than before.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > =================
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Remove the distributor cap, spin engine and see if rotor
> turns in
> > > > > > distributor. If not, timing belt is broken.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > 'Curly'
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ===============
> > > > > > --
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks to everyone for all of the advice. It needs a new
> distributor
> > > > > rotor (and a tune up in general...)
> > > >
> > > > Back in March I posted to this group about my 99 civic not
> starting. I
> > > > replaced the distributor cap and rotor back in march, and it has
> > > > started everytime since, until today. Today, it seems like a
> very
> > > > similar problem, although the rotor and distributor cap are fine.
> When
> > > > I turn the key, the starter whirs, and I hear a few clicks. I
> think
> > > > the fuel pump is fine (I need to make sure tonight, but I seem to
> > > > remember hearing it click on this morning). I do hear a few
> clicks
> > > > while the starter is running, coming from the engine.
> > > >
> > > > A few mentioned the main relay, which if the fuel pump is coming
> on
> > > > then it isn't that, and a few others mentioned ignition switch or
> the
> > > > ignitor. How can you determine that?
> > > >
> > > > Also, maybe a stupid question, but how do you check for spark? I
> > > > wonder (and kind of hope because they are easy to replace) if it
> is the
> > > > spark plug wires.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for any additional help.
> > > >
> > >
> > >
>
> Remcow,
>
> Thanks for the thorough responses. The rotor definitely turns, so I
> don't think it is the timing belt. The clicking I hear is infrequent
> and not very loud.
>
> Ken