When I installed the belt previously I let go of the wrench. I think
that was what I did wrong. I will try it today again, but in the past I
was using the crankshaft pulley(the one that spins the drive belts)
using the 54mm hex to turn the crankshaft 3 teeth for tension. Once I
turned it, I had to remove the pulley again to tighten the tensioner
bolt. By doing this, it's very hard to not let go of the wrench when
removing the pulley. Do you have a method of turning the crankshaft
without the crankshaft pulley??? If I use the pulley screw without the
pulley, it'll be difficult to tighten it enough to hold when I try to
rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise. To summarize the steps I have
to follow are:
Align the marks on the camshaft and crankshaft
Keep the tensioner screw tight
Rotate the crankshaft 3 teeth counterclockwise
Without letting go of the wrench loosen the tensioner screw
Tighten the tensioner screw
Let go of the ratchet
Is this the suggested sequence of events?

Thanks

 

acioaca@lycos.com wrote in
news:1128428191.993359.271830@g44g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:


<snip>


> Align the marks on the camshaft and crankshaft
> Keep the tensioner screw tight
> Rotate the crankshaft 3 teeth counterclockwise
> Without letting go of the wrench loosen the tensioner screw
> Tighten the tensioner screw
> Let go of the ratchet
> Is this the suggested sequence of events?



Yes. And the tensioner bolt is ABOVE the crank pulley, set into the timing
belt cover.

You'd hold the crank pulley still from below, and do the tensioner from
above. I really have no idea why you're finding the crank interfering with
the tensioner....unless...your PS is in the way...

This site addresses the PS issue:
http://timingbelt.soben.com/




--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

acioaca@lycos.com wrote in
news:1128428191.993359.271830@g44g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:

> When I installed the belt previously I let go of the wrench. I think
> that was what I did wrong. I will try it today again, but in the past I
> was using the crankshaft pulley(the one that spins the drive belts)
> using the 54mm hex to turn the crankshaft 3 teeth for tension.


Why are you using that bulky thing?

Just use a normal 3/8" drive 19mm socket and extensions on the pulley bolt
to turn it. Might buy you more wiggle room.

Don't worry, the bolt won't come loose if you've torqued it properly.


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

acioaca@lycos.com wrote:
> When I installed the belt previously I let go of the wrench. I think
> that was what I did wrong. I will try it today again, but in the past I
> was using the crankshaft pulley(the one that spins the drive belts)
> using the 54mm hex to turn the crankshaft 3 teeth for tension. Once I
> turned it, I had to remove the pulley again to tighten the tensioner
> bolt. By doing this, it's very hard to not let go of the wrench when
> removing the pulley. Do you have a method of turning the crankshaft
> without the crankshaft pulley??? If I use the pulley screw without the
> pulley, it'll be difficult to tighten it enough to hold when I try to
> rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise. To summarize the steps I have
> to follow are:
> Align the marks on the camshaft and crankshaft
> Keep the tensioner screw tight
> Rotate the crankshaft 3 teeth counterclockwise
> Without letting go of the wrench loosen the tensioner screw
> Tighten the tensioner screw
> Let go of the ratchet
> Is this the suggested sequence of events?
>
> Thanks
>
that should do it. make sure you turn the engine over 3 times and
re-check both tightness of the belt and the timing marks for alignment.
removing the spark plugs helps too.

 

Hi Guys,

I have tried the method you've suggested and no success. I'm getting
better and better at getting to the timing belt after about 5 attempts
so far, but I still have the same issue. The timing belt is tight
between the camshaft and crankshaft. It seems that when the engine
first starts cold the timing is close, but not exact, to the TDC
marker. Once the engine slows down to idle speed,after a few minutes,
that's when the timing retards and it will just stay retarded. It
coincides with the engine speed. I've read somewhere that timing should
be adjusted at 750RPM +- 50. The only time I get that high, without
touching the acceleration, is when the car first starts. The idle speed
RPMs are below 500. I always look at timing only after the cooling fan
comes on, and I did it a few times after more than 45 minutes of
driving (when I came from work). I'm running out of options. The
markings are always alligned, I've made sure of it. Would the drive
belts tension have anything to do with it? I loose a bit of power when
I drive with the AC on. When I do my timing monitoring all utilities
are off per Hayes manual. Although the service jumper is connected, my
timing still changes when I look at it when I start cold. Once the
engine is hot it doesn't fluctuate, but it is retarded. Do you have any
more ideas I could try? What are the consequences for driving like this?

 

acioaca@lycos.com wrote:
> Hi Guys,
>
> I have tried the method you've suggested and no success. I'm getting
> better and better at getting to the timing belt after about 5 attempts
> so far, but I still have the same issue. The timing belt is tight
> between the camshaft and crankshaft.

correct tension is vital, but it doesn't mean squat regarding timing.
what matters is the tooth count between the timing marks. to confirm
this is correct, do both timing marks align /exactly/ for the cam and
the crank when the belt is tensioned?

> It seems that when the engine
> first starts cold the timing is close, but not exact, to the TDC
> marker. Once the engine slows down to idle speed,after a few minutes,
> that's when the timing retards and it will just stay retarded. It
> coincides with the engine speed. I've read somewhere that timing should
> be adjusted at 750RPM +- 50. The only time I get that high, without
> touching the acceleration, is when the car first starts. The idle speed
> RPMs are below 500. I always look at timing only after the cooling fan
> comes on, and I did it a few times after more than 45 minutes of
> driving (when I came from work). I'm running out of options. The
> markings are always alligned, I've made sure of it. Would the drive
> belts tension have anything to do with it? I loose a bit of power when
> I drive with the AC on. When I do my timing monitoring all utilities
> are off per Hayes manual.

haynes is notoriously CRAP. either get the online stuff from tegger's
site or buy the proper workshop manual from helm.

> Although the service jumper is connected, my
> timing still changes when I look at it when I start cold. Once the
> engine is hot it doesn't fluctuate, but it is retarded. Do you have any
> more ideas I could try? What are the consequences for driving like this?
>
take it to a shop. no disrespect, but all we have to work on at this
end is your version of events. if you live close to san francisco, i
could look at it for you, but way things are right now, it's impossible
to get closer to the problem without physical inspection.

 

I'm positive that both camshaft and crankshaft wheels align with the
markers. It has not jumped a tooth because the TDC marker on the
crankshaft pulley aligns when the camshaft pulley markers align. This
is why it's so frustrating to figure out what's wrong. I will take it
to a shop over the weekend. I've received a quote for $45 for adjusting
the timing. Is it reasonable? Thanks for all your help. Unfortunately I
live in Michigan which is quite a way from San Francisco.

 

I almost forgot. I have foud a site with FREE Service manuals (1000
page ones)for hondas. Tegger please add a link to it on the website for
everyone's access: www.deliii.com