Forgot to mention that I used those technics as well (didn't mention cuz they
didn't work!). Though I only had a propane torch, so I doubt I could get it
hot enough.

Also, the big reason impact is less effective in this application is because
of the rubber bushing. It cushions the assembly from the full effect of the
impact.

Just got back from the dealer. I'm walking a little funny... The bolts they
gave me cost $12 each!

Majestic Honda = $0.78.

WTF!! I hate dealers.

t

Tegger wrote:
>> After an hour of impact, I used the breaker bar on the stubborn bolt
>> and the head snapped off. I used and angle grinder to get the rest
>> out.
>
>Here's a trick you might want to try next time: /TIGHTEN/ the bolt before
>trying to crack it loose.
>
>Another trick: Since you don't care what happens to the bushing rubber,
>heat the bolt head and nut to orange with a torch, then let them cool all
>the way down. Then try the tighten/loosen thing. This is remarkably
>effective.
>

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1

 

"loewent via CarKB.com" <u10197@uwe> wrote in news:77784a60b4a2a@uwe:

> Forgot to mention that I used those technics as well (didn't mention
> cuz they didn't work!). Though I only had a propane torch, so I doubt
> I could get it hot enough.



A propane torch should be just fine. You only need to head up the
threads in the nut, and the bottom of the head. Another thing you could
try is to dump a large amount of ice water on the orange-hot parts. The
thermal shock may well break the rust seal.


>
> Also, the big reason impact is less effective in this application is
> because of the rubber bushing. It cushions the assembly from the full
> effect of the impact.


That's why you tighten first. Tightening clamps the bushing sleeve to
the arm, forcing the bolt to be the one and only thing that moves. With
the sleeve clamped thusly, the bushing has no effect on impact effort.

If you tried all these things and the bolt just wouldn't let go, you
must have had some seriously bad corrosion. One of my rear bolts (damper
fork/LCA) was like that, and required to be ground off.


>
> Just got back from the dealer. I'm walking a little funny... The
> bolts they gave me cost $12 each!
>
> Majestic Honda = $0.78.


Majestic may be buying local bolts rather than ordering them from Honda.
The correct bolts have fine threads, and usually have fluting on their
shanks.


>
> WTF!! I hate dealers.



I bought all my suspension fasteners from the dealer. A big price, but
at least they're correct for the car.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

"loewent via CarKB.com" <u10197@uwe> wrote in news:77784a60b4a2a@uwe:

> Forgot to mention that I used those technics as well (didn't mention
> cuz they didn't work!). Though I only had a propane torch, so I doubt
> I could get it hot enough.



A propane torch should be just fine. You only need to head up the
threads in the nut, and the bottom of the head. Another thing you could
try is to dump a large amount of ice water on the orange-hot parts. The
thermal shock may well break the rust seal.


>
> Also, the big reason impact is less effective in this application is
> because of the rubber bushing. It cushions the assembly from the full
> effect of the impact.


That's why you tighten first. Tightening clamps the bushing sleeve to
the arm, forcing the bolt to be the one and only thing that moves. With
the sleeve clamped thusly, the bushing has no effect on impact effort.

If you tried all these things and the bolt just wouldn't let go, you
must have had some seriously bad corrosion. One of my rear bolts (damper
fork/LCA) was like that, and required to be ground off.


>
> Just got back from the dealer. I'm walking a little funny... The
> bolts they gave me cost $12 each!
>
> Majestic Honda = $0.78.


Majestic may be buying local bolts rather than ordering them from Honda.
The correct bolts have fine threads, and usually have fluting on their
shanks.


>
> WTF!! I hate dealers.



I bought all my suspension fasteners from the dealer. A big price, but
at least they're correct for the car.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

Alrighty. First, thanks Tegger and jim beam for your input.

Put the back end of my car back together tonight. New rear upper arms, and
new shocks (monroe). Seems to have taken care of the play I mentioned
earlier. New shocks also make the car sit a little higher than before. The
old shocks were tired....

Snapped another bolt (shock mount to lower arm), but thankfully I had an
extra (dealer actually sold me those bolts instead of the other one I broke
yesterday, they didn't have the right one in stock. These are the shock
mount bolt and the lower arm to trailing arm pivot bolt).

Drives like a champ. Well a champ in need of an alignment... Saturday will
bring me to the front end. Will be doing that wheel bearing, the passenger
caliper, and the front shocks. The guy at Partsource sold me some stabilizer
bar links. For the life of me I can't seem to remember there being a
stabilizer bar on my car. I thought that they were just in the SIs. But
perhaps I've just never noticed it.

One thing... how hard is it to screw up reassembly of the strut in the rear?
For some reason, I couldn't get the top mounting collar to seat where I
thought it should. The strut went back on no problem and everything seems ok,
but I found it a bit odd.

After front end stuff is done, its off to the tire shop.

And after seeing how complex the rear wishbone is, its going to the dealer
for alignment. Don't trust just any monkey to monkey around with all that
stuff...

t

Tegger wrote:
>> Forgot to mention that I used those technics as well (didn't mention
>> cuz they didn't work!). Though I only had a propane torch, so I doubt
>> I could get it hot enough.
>
>A propane torch should be just fine. You only need to head up the
>threads in the nut, and the bottom of the head. Another thing you could
>try is to dump a large amount of ice water on the orange-hot parts. The
>thermal shock may well break the rust seal.
>
>> Also, the big reason impact is less effective in this application is
>> because of the rubber bushing. It cushions the assembly from the full
>> effect of the impact.
>
>That's why you tighten first. Tightening clamps the bushing sleeve to
>the arm, forcing the bolt to be the one and only thing that moves. With
>the sleeve clamped thusly, the bushing has no effect on impact effort.
>
>If you tried all these things and the bolt just wouldn't let go, you
>must have had some seriously bad corrosion. One of my rear bolts (damper
>fork/LCA) was like that, and required to be ground off.
>
>> Just got back from the dealer. I'm walking a little funny... The
>> bolts they gave me cost $12 each!
>>
>> Majestic Honda = $0.78.
>
>Majestic may be buying local bolts rather than ordering them from Honda.
>The correct bolts have fine threads, and usually have fluting on their
>shanks.
>
>> WTF!! I hate dealers.
>
>I bought all my suspension fasteners from the dealer. A big price, but
>at least they're correct for the car.
>

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1

 

Alrighty. First, thanks Tegger and jim beam for your input.

Put the back end of my car back together tonight. New rear upper arms, and
new shocks (monroe). Seems to have taken care of the play I mentioned
earlier. New shocks also make the car sit a little higher than before. The
old shocks were tired....

Snapped another bolt (shock mount to lower arm), but thankfully I had an
extra (dealer actually sold me those bolts instead of the other one I broke
yesterday, they didn't have the right one in stock. These are the shock
mount bolt and the lower arm to trailing arm pivot bolt).

Drives like a champ. Well a champ in need of an alignment... Saturday will
bring me to the front end. Will be doing that wheel bearing, the passenger
caliper, and the front shocks. The guy at Partsource sold me some stabilizer
bar links. For the life of me I can't seem to remember there being a
stabilizer bar on my car. I thought that they were just in the SIs. But
perhaps I've just never noticed it.

One thing... how hard is it to screw up reassembly of the strut in the rear?
For some reason, I couldn't get the top mounting collar to seat where I
thought it should. The strut went back on no problem and everything seems ok,
but I found it a bit odd.

After front end stuff is done, its off to the tire shop.

And after seeing how complex the rear wishbone is, its going to the dealer
for alignment. Don't trust just any monkey to monkey around with all that
stuff...

t

Tegger wrote:
>> Forgot to mention that I used those technics as well (didn't mention
>> cuz they didn't work!). Though I only had a propane torch, so I doubt
>> I could get it hot enough.
>
>A propane torch should be just fine. You only need to head up the
>threads in the nut, and the bottom of the head. Another thing you could
>try is to dump a large amount of ice water on the orange-hot parts. The
>thermal shock may well break the rust seal.
>
>> Also, the big reason impact is less effective in this application is
>> because of the rubber bushing. It cushions the assembly from the full
>> effect of the impact.
>
>That's why you tighten first. Tightening clamps the bushing sleeve to
>the arm, forcing the bolt to be the one and only thing that moves. With
>the sleeve clamped thusly, the bushing has no effect on impact effort.
>
>If you tried all these things and the bolt just wouldn't let go, you
>must have had some seriously bad corrosion. One of my rear bolts (damper
>fork/LCA) was like that, and required to be ground off.
>
>> Just got back from the dealer. I'm walking a little funny... The
>> bolts they gave me cost $12 each!
>>
>> Majestic Honda = $0.78.
>
>Majestic may be buying local bolts rather than ordering them from Honda.
>The correct bolts have fine threads, and usually have fluting on their
>shanks.
>
>> WTF!! I hate dealers.
>
>I bought all my suspension fasteners from the dealer. A big price, but
>at least they're correct for the car.
>

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1

 

Alrighty. First, thanks Tegger and jim beam for your input.

Put the back end of my car back together tonight. New rear upper arms, and
new shocks (monroe). Seems to have taken care of the play I mentioned
earlier. New shocks also make the car sit a little higher than before. The
old shocks were tired....

Snapped another bolt (shock mount to lower arm), but thankfully I had an
extra (dealer actually sold me those bolts instead of the other one I broke
yesterday, they didn't have the right one in stock. These are the shock
mount bolt and the lower arm to trailing arm pivot bolt).

Drives like a champ. Well a champ in need of an alignment... Saturday will
bring me to the front end. Will be doing that wheel bearing, the passenger
caliper, and the front shocks. The guy at Partsource sold me some stabilizer
bar links. For the life of me I can't seem to remember there being a
stabilizer bar on my car. I thought that they were just in the SIs. But
perhaps I've just never noticed it.

One thing... how hard is it to screw up reassembly of the strut in the rear?
For some reason, I couldn't get the top mounting collar to seat where I
thought it should. The strut went back on no problem and everything seems ok,
but I found it a bit odd.

After front end stuff is done, its off to the tire shop.

And after seeing how complex the rear wishbone is, its going to the dealer
for alignment. Don't trust just any monkey to monkey around with all that
stuff...

t

Tegger wrote:
>> Forgot to mention that I used those technics as well (didn't mention
>> cuz they didn't work!). Though I only had a propane torch, so I doubt
>> I could get it hot enough.
>
>A propane torch should be just fine. You only need to head up the
>threads in the nut, and the bottom of the head. Another thing you could
>try is to dump a large amount of ice water on the orange-hot parts. The
>thermal shock may well break the rust seal.
>
>> Also, the big reason impact is less effective in this application is
>> because of the rubber bushing. It cushions the assembly from the full
>> effect of the impact.
>
>That's why you tighten first. Tightening clamps the bushing sleeve to
>the arm, forcing the bolt to be the one and only thing that moves. With
>the sleeve clamped thusly, the bushing has no effect on impact effort.
>
>If you tried all these things and the bolt just wouldn't let go, you
>must have had some seriously bad corrosion. One of my rear bolts (damper
>fork/LCA) was like that, and required to be ground off.
>
>> Just got back from the dealer. I'm walking a little funny... The
>> bolts they gave me cost $12 each!
>>
>> Majestic Honda = $0.78.
>
>Majestic may be buying local bolts rather than ordering them from Honda.
>The correct bolts have fine threads, and usually have fluting on their
>shanks.
>
>> WTF!! I hate dealers.
>
>I bought all my suspension fasteners from the dealer. A big price, but
>at least they're correct for the car.
>

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1

 

Alrighty. First, thanks Tegger and jim beam for your input.

Put the back end of my car back together tonight. New rear upper arms, and
new shocks (monroe). Seems to have taken care of the play I mentioned
earlier. New shocks also make the car sit a little higher than before. The
old shocks were tired....

Snapped another bolt (shock mount to lower arm), but thankfully I had an
extra (dealer actually sold me those bolts instead of the other one I broke
yesterday, they didn't have the right one in stock. These are the shock
mount bolt and the lower arm to trailing arm pivot bolt).

Drives like a champ. Well a champ in need of an alignment... Saturday will
bring me to the front end. Will be doing that wheel bearing, the passenger
caliper, and the front shocks. The guy at Partsource sold me some stabilizer
bar links. For the life of me I can't seem to remember there being a
stabilizer bar on my car. I thought that they were just in the SIs. But
perhaps I've just never noticed it.

One thing... how hard is it to screw up reassembly of the strut in the rear?
For some reason, I couldn't get the top mounting collar to seat where I
thought it should. The strut went back on no problem and everything seems ok,
but I found it a bit odd.

After front end stuff is done, its off to the tire shop.

And after seeing how complex the rear wishbone is, its going to the dealer
for alignment. Don't trust just any monkey to monkey around with all that
stuff...

t

Tegger wrote:
>> Forgot to mention that I used those technics as well (didn't mention
>> cuz they didn't work!). Though I only had a propane torch, so I doubt
>> I could get it hot enough.
>
>A propane torch should be just fine. You only need to head up the
>threads in the nut, and the bottom of the head. Another thing you could
>try is to dump a large amount of ice water on the orange-hot parts. The
>thermal shock may well break the rust seal.
>
>> Also, the big reason impact is less effective in this application is
>> because of the rubber bushing. It cushions the assembly from the full
>> effect of the impact.
>
>That's why you tighten first. Tightening clamps the bushing sleeve to
>the arm, forcing the bolt to be the one and only thing that moves. With
>the sleeve clamped thusly, the bushing has no effect on impact effort.
>
>If you tried all these things and the bolt just wouldn't let go, you
>must have had some seriously bad corrosion. One of my rear bolts (damper
>fork/LCA) was like that, and required to be ground off.
>
>> Just got back from the dealer. I'm walking a little funny... The
>> bolts they gave me cost $12 each!
>>
>> Majestic Honda = $0.78.
>
>Majestic may be buying local bolts rather than ordering them from Honda.
>The correct bolts have fine threads, and usually have fluting on their
>shanks.
>
>> WTF!! I hate dealers.
>
>I bought all my suspension fasteners from the dealer. A big price, but
>at least they're correct for the car.
>

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1

 

Alrighty. First, thanks Tegger and jim beam for your input.

Put the back end of my car back together tonight. New rear upper arms, and
new shocks (monroe). Seems to have taken care of the play I mentioned
earlier. New shocks also make the car sit a little higher than before. The
old shocks were tired....

Snapped another bolt (shock mount to lower arm), but thankfully I had an
extra (dealer actually sold me those bolts instead of the other one I broke
yesterday, they didn't have the right one in stock. These are the shock
mount bolt and the lower arm to trailing arm pivot bolt).

Drives like a champ. Well a champ in need of an alignment... Saturday will
bring me to the front end. Will be doing that wheel bearing, the passenger
caliper, and the front shocks. The guy at Partsource sold me some stabilizer
bar links. For the life of me I can't seem to remember there being a
stabilizer bar on my car. I thought that they were just in the SIs. But
perhaps I've just never noticed it.

One thing... how hard is it to screw up reassembly of the strut in the rear?
For some reason, I couldn't get the top mounting collar to seat where I
thought it should. The strut went back on no problem and everything seems ok,
but I found it a bit odd.

After front end stuff is done, its off to the tire shop.

And after seeing how complex the rear wishbone is, its going to the dealer
for alignment. Don't trust just any monkey to monkey around with all that
stuff...

t

Tegger wrote:
>> Forgot to mention that I used those technics as well (didn't mention
>> cuz they didn't work!). Though I only had a propane torch, so I doubt
>> I could get it hot enough.
>
>A propane torch should be just fine. You only need to head up the
>threads in the nut, and the bottom of the head. Another thing you could
>try is to dump a large amount of ice water on the orange-hot parts. The
>thermal shock may well break the rust seal.
>
>> Also, the big reason impact is less effective in this application is
>> because of the rubber bushing. It cushions the assembly from the full
>> effect of the impact.
>
>That's why you tighten first. Tightening clamps the bushing sleeve to
>the arm, forcing the bolt to be the one and only thing that moves. With
>the sleeve clamped thusly, the bushing has no effect on impact effort.
>
>If you tried all these things and the bolt just wouldn't let go, you
>must have had some seriously bad corrosion. One of my rear bolts (damper
>fork/LCA) was like that, and required to be ground off.
>
>> Just got back from the dealer. I'm walking a little funny... The
>> bolts they gave me cost $12 each!
>>
>> Majestic Honda = $0.78.
>
>Majestic may be buying local bolts rather than ordering them from Honda.
>The correct bolts have fine threads, and usually have fluting on their
>shanks.
>
>> WTF!! I hate dealers.
>
>I bought all my suspension fasteners from the dealer. A big price, but
>at least they're correct for the car.
>

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1

 

Alrighty. First, thanks Tegger and jim beam for your input.

Put the back end of my car back together tonight. New rear upper arms, and
new shocks (monroe). Seems to have taken care of the play I mentioned
earlier. New shocks also make the car sit a little higher than before. The
old shocks were tired....

Snapped another bolt (shock mount to lower arm), but thankfully I had an
extra (dealer actually sold me those bolts instead of the other one I broke
yesterday, they didn't have the right one in stock. These are the shock
mount bolt and the lower arm to trailing arm pivot bolt).

Drives like a champ. Well a champ in need of an alignment... Saturday will
bring me to the front end. Will be doing that wheel bearing, the passenger
caliper, and the front shocks. The guy at Partsource sold me some stabilizer
bar links. For the life of me I can't seem to remember there being a
stabilizer bar on my car. I thought that they were just in the SIs. But
perhaps I've just never noticed it.

One thing... how hard is it to screw up reassembly of the strut in the rear?
For some reason, I couldn't get the top mounting collar to seat where I
thought it should. The strut went back on no problem and everything seems ok,
but I found it a bit odd.

After front end stuff is done, its off to the tire shop.

And after seeing how complex the rear wishbone is, its going to the dealer
for alignment. Don't trust just any monkey to monkey around with all that
stuff...

t

Tegger wrote:
>> Forgot to mention that I used those technics as well (didn't mention
>> cuz they didn't work!). Though I only had a propane torch, so I doubt
>> I could get it hot enough.
>
>A propane torch should be just fine. You only need to head up the
>threads in the nut, and the bottom of the head. Another thing you could
>try is to dump a large amount of ice water on the orange-hot parts. The
>thermal shock may well break the rust seal.
>
>> Also, the big reason impact is less effective in this application is
>> because of the rubber bushing. It cushions the assembly from the full
>> effect of the impact.
>
>That's why you tighten first. Tightening clamps the bushing sleeve to
>the arm, forcing the bolt to be the one and only thing that moves. With
>the sleeve clamped thusly, the bushing has no effect on impact effort.
>
>If you tried all these things and the bolt just wouldn't let go, you
>must have had some seriously bad corrosion. One of my rear bolts (damper
>fork/LCA) was like that, and required to be ground off.
>
>> Just got back from the dealer. I'm walking a little funny... The
>> bolts they gave me cost $12 each!
>>
>> Majestic Honda = $0.78.
>
>Majestic may be buying local bolts rather than ordering them from Honda.
>The correct bolts have fine threads, and usually have fluting on their
>shanks.
>
>> WTF!! I hate dealers.
>
>I bought all my suspension fasteners from the dealer. A big price, but
>at least they're correct for the car.
>

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1

 

sorry for the multi-post... my ISP is sucking (wireless) and I guess it
registered three times due to me clicking POST so many times. Gotta get rid
of these guys....

loewent wrote:
>Alrighty. First, thanks Tegger and jim beam for your input.
>
>Put the back end of my car back together tonight. New rear upper arms, and
>new shocks (monroe). Seems to have taken care of the play I mentioned
>earlier. New shocks also make the car sit a little higher than before. The
>old shocks were tired....
>
>Snapped another bolt (shock mount to lower arm), but thankfully I had an
>extra (dealer actually sold me those bolts instead of the other one I broke
>yesterday, they didn't have the right one in stock. These are the shock
>mount bolt and the lower arm to trailing arm pivot bolt).
>
>Drives like a champ. Well a champ in need of an alignment... Saturday will
>bring me to the front end. Will be doing that wheel bearing, the passenger
>caliper, and the front shocks. The guy at Partsource sold me some stabilizer
>bar links. For the life of me I can't seem to remember there being a
>stabilizer bar on my car. I thought that they were just in the SIs. But
>perhaps I've just never noticed it.
>
>One thing... how hard is it to screw up reassembly of the strut in the rear?
>For some reason, I couldn't get the top mounting collar to seat where I
>thought it should. The strut went back on no problem and everything seems ok,
>but I found it a bit odd.
>
>After front end stuff is done, its off to the tire shop.
>
>And after seeing how complex the rear wishbone is, its going to the dealer
>for alignment. Don't trust just any monkey to monkey around with all that
>stuff...
>
>t
>
>>> Forgot to mention that I used those technics as well (didn't mention
>>> cuz they didn't work!). Though I only had a propane torch, so I doubt
>[quoted text clipped - 30 lines]
>>I bought all my suspension fasteners from the dealer. A big price, but
>>at least they're correct for the car.

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1

 

sorry for the multi-post... my ISP is sucking (wireless) and I guess it
registered three times due to me clicking POST so many times. Gotta get rid
of these guys....

loewent wrote:
>Alrighty. First, thanks Tegger and jim beam for your input.
>
>Put the back end of my car back together tonight. New rear upper arms, and
>new shocks (monroe). Seems to have taken care of the play I mentioned
>earlier. New shocks also make the car sit a little higher than before. The
>old shocks were tired....
>
>Snapped another bolt (shock mount to lower arm), but thankfully I had an
>extra (dealer actually sold me those bolts instead of the other one I broke
>yesterday, they didn't have the right one in stock. These are the shock
>mount bolt and the lower arm to trailing arm pivot bolt).
>
>Drives like a champ. Well a champ in need of an alignment... Saturday will
>bring me to the front end. Will be doing that wheel bearing, the passenger
>caliper, and the front shocks. The guy at Partsource sold me some stabilizer
>bar links. For the life of me I can't seem to remember there being a
>stabilizer bar on my car. I thought that they were just in the SIs. But
>perhaps I've just never noticed it.
>
>One thing... how hard is it to screw up reassembly of the strut in the rear?
>For some reason, I couldn't get the top mounting collar to seat where I
>thought it should. The strut went back on no problem and everything seems ok,
>but I found it a bit odd.
>
>After front end stuff is done, its off to the tire shop.
>
>And after seeing how complex the rear wishbone is, its going to the dealer
>for alignment. Don't trust just any monkey to monkey around with all that
>stuff...
>
>t
>
>>> Forgot to mention that I used those technics as well (didn't mention
>>> cuz they didn't work!). Though I only had a propane torch, so I doubt
>[quoted text clipped - 30 lines]
>>I bought all my suspension fasteners from the dealer. A big price, but
>>at least they're correct for the car.

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1