Steve L wrote:

> The low oil light never came on, but I added 2 quarts to get it up to
> the hash marks on the stick. I checked to make sure light came on when
> I turned on the key, and it does, but I was worried that perhaps the
> actual sensor didn't work, even if the lamp worked.

Have a lab analyze the oil. For 20+ bucks you can KNOW if the engine
suffered unusual wear and tear. Be sure to include a description of the
situation along with the oil sample.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/index.html

 

"Steve L" <srl1215@comcast.net> wrote in news:gh4prd$a0k$1
@news.motzarella.org:

>
> "Tegger" <invalid@invalid.inv> wrote in message
> news:Xns9B68CD6B219BAtegger@208.90.168.18...
>> "Steve L" <srl1215@comcast.net> wrote in news:gh4l0m$vhs$1
>> @news.motzarella.org:
>>
>>> First words back from mechanic.
>>>
>>> 1. Looks like he hit something/sometime underneath and oil pan has
>>> big
>>> dent in it and it is leaking oil from that. (I didn't see that when
>>> it
>>> was parked in my driveway, but he could be right.)
>>>
>>> 2. Rear passenger wheel bearing needs replacing.
>>
>>
>>
>> $600 for new OEM. Less for aftermarket, but that would last much
>> shorter.
>
>
> $600 for a new oil pan? or rear wheel bearing, or combination of both?




That's just the rear bearing (if OEM).



<snip>

>
> The car was down a bit more than 2 quarts, although when I added that
> 2 qts it was past half way up between the hash marks on the dip stick.
> The oil pressure light never came on when he was driving, although
> when he stalled, the Check Engine light came on. Will ask to check oil
> pressure.



You originally said the oil light stayed on even after refilling, which
is different from this later statement. I'm now confused.


<snip>


>>
>>
>
> So I should be thinking double that for the paint? I'll talk to him
> more about that. Also get another or maybe 2 quotes from decent body
> shops.



At LEAST a couple of grand for a GOOD paint job with PROPER prep.

And it will help tremendously if you pull off as much
trim/molding/bumpers/lights/etc yourself as you can before you bring the
car in. You want a first-class job? Pay for it, and help them help you.



<snip>


>>
>> Yep. That's rust from cheapo "long life" aftermarket brake pads with
>> lots
>> of steel wool in them. Might come off, but probably not all the way.
>> Rust
>> stains very badly.
>>
>>
>>
>
> Didn't know that about aftermarket pads.



Sorry, but aftermarket usually really isn't very good. There's a good
reason why it's cheaper than OEM Honda.



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

I have a 97 CRV 119K. 4 banger. Doesn't leak or burn any oil or
other fluids, runs great, averaging 23mpg. All I ever do is regular
maintenance, my dad originally did all oil changes and everything, I
just let the dealer do it (Honda of course) I love Honda. I had a 92
Dodge Caravan and it burned and spit oil and leaked all over. This
is why I buy Honda not GM, or any domestic vehicle for that matter.
And I'll tell people that to that get maid that I drive Honda!

 

bigjcw1023@gmail.com wrote:
> I have a 97 CRV 119K. 4 banger. Doesn't leak or burn any oil or
> other fluids, runs great, averaging 23mpg. All I ever do is regular
> maintenance, my dad originally did all oil changes and everything, I
> just let the dealer do it (Honda of course) I love Honda. I had a 92
> Dodge Caravan and it burned and spit oil and leaked all over. This
> is why I buy Honda not GM, or any domestic vehicle for that matter.

I have a '95 Civic EX that doesn't burn oil, with just under 150k on
it. The previous owner had to have the transmission replaced (and
happily, did the clutch and CV boots as well) and it has minor glitches,
but it's still remarkably reliable.


> And I'll tell people that to that get maid that I drive Honda!



Um, please don't...?

 

"Tegger" <invalid@invalid.inv> wrote in message
news:Xns9B6AD6D9E5A65tegger@208.90.168.18...
> "Steve L" <srl1215@comcast.net> wrote in news:gh4prd$a0k$1
> @news.motzarella.org:
>
>>
>> "Tegger" <invalid@invalid.inv> wrote in message
>> news:Xns9B68CD6B219BAtegger@208.90.168.18...
>>> "Steve L" <srl1215@comcast.net> wrote in news:gh4l0m$vhs$1
>>> @news.motzarella.org:
>>>
>
>>
>> The car was down a bit more than 2 quarts, although when I added
>> that
>> 2 qts it was past half way up between the hash marks on the dip
>> stick.
>> The oil pressure light never came on when he was driving, although
>> when he stalled, the Check Engine light came on. Will ask to check
>> oil
>> pressure.
>
>
>
> You originally said the oil light stayed on even after refilling,
> which
> is different from this later statement. I'm now confused.
>
>

NO, the OIL light never came on. The check engine light came on and
the car started to stall when coming to stops, idling at about 750rpm.
The oil was down more than two quarts but the oil light never came
on.. (although when you turn the key to ACC it does light, so as I
said, maybe the sensor for oil doesn't work?)

The mechanic checked the code and it was a 1259. He hears something
knocking in the lower end. He checked his Alldata manuals and it all
points to not good things. He's suggesting I consider dumping the car.

It's got 130K miles. Totally failed paint, needs brakes and a rear
wheel bearing. I did do a timing belt and water pump at 100K.

I'm thinking it might be time to bite the bullett on this one.

 

"Steve L" <srl1215@comcast.net> wrote
> NO, the OIL light never came on. The check engine light
> came on and the car started to stall when coming to stops,
> idling at about 750rpm. The oil was down more than two
> quarts but the oil light never came on.. (although when
> you turn the key to ACC it does light, so as I said, maybe
> the sensor for oil doesn't work?)

I bet the sensor is fine. The car will run quite low on oil
and still not turn on the low oil light. Anecdote: A
mechanic installed my valve cover gasket incorrectly in
2002, and oil leaked everywhere for the next few weeks. When
I finally noticed it and checked the oil level, I do not
think I could see any oil on the dipstick. I never got a low
oil pressure light. I cleaned it all up; correctly installed
a new gasket; added the right amount of oil. Car drives
great today.

> The mechanic checked the code and it was a 1259.

Plenty of reports at www.honda-tech.com say this is a direct
result of the low oil level. I suspect you are working with
a mechanic who simply is not hip on Hondas.

> He hears something knocking in the lower end. He checked
> his Alldata manuals and it all points to not good things.
> He's suggesting I consider dumping the car.

That new oil pan is going to cost you another $200 or so, I
figure.

> It's got 130K miles. Totally failed paint, needs brakes
> and a rear wheel bearing. I did do a timing belt and water
> pump at 100K.
>
> I'm thinking it might be time to bite the bullett on this
> one.

I think you should find an import mechanic and get a second
opinion on the wheel bearing, alleged knocking, and code
1259.

OTOH, all this diagnosis with a leaking oil pan is risky.

 

"Steve L" <srl1215@comcast.net> wrote in news:ghc2g8$8vh$1
@news.motzarella.org:

>
> "Tegger" <invalid@invalid.inv> wrote in message
> news:Xns9B6AD6D9E5A65tegger@208.90.168.18...

>>
>>
>> You originally said the oil light stayed on even after refilling,
>> which
>> is different from this later statement. I'm now confused.
>>
>>
>
> NO, the OIL light never came on. The check engine light came on



Yeah, you're absolutely right. I misread the original post.




> and
> the car started to stall when coming to stops, idling at about 750rpm.



Isn't 750 correct for warm idle in Drive?



> The oil was down more than two quarts but the oil light never came
> on.. (although when you turn the key to ACC it does light, so as I
> said, maybe the sensor for oil doesn't work?)


The oil light should come on when the key is turned to ON (II), not ACC
(I). If it comes on at "II", then the oil pressure sensor is working
correctly. The light will come on during engine operation when oil
pressure drops below (IIRC) 6 psi.



>
> The mechanic checked the code and it was a 1259.



VTEC system malfunction. I have no experience with VTEC, but I'm told
that neglected oil changes play havoc with the VTEC system.




> He hears something
> knocking in the lower end.



Bad engine bearings, probably. That low oil may have done more damage
than you might think. Low oil level can cause momentary starvation,
which eventually leads to scored main bearings.




> He checked his Alldata manuals and it all
> points to not good things. He's suggesting I consider dumping the car.
>
> It's got 130K miles. Totally failed paint, needs brakes and a rear
> wheel bearing. I did do a timing belt and water pump at 100K.
>
> I'm thinking it might be time to bite the bullett on this one.
>


Possibly.



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/