On Mon, 25 Dec 2006 11:20:56 -0800, "Patrick Callaghan"
<patcal096@comcast.net> wrote:

> It is a 97 LX Sedan with F22B2 engine with 5 speed. The previous owner
>did not know anything beside the timing belt that had been changed. Since
>the belt would come off for the water pump change I would do the whole
>shebang. Seals, pensioners, belts, everything. Thanks for the response.
>
>Pat

It sounds like the mechanic that did the TB didn't change the water
pump at the same time. Too bad because this maintenance item could be
put off indefinitely otherwise. Use Honda parts including coolant and
you are good to go on that front.

If the noise isn't too bad, you might consider re greasing and
re-booting the CVs and see how far that gets you. Hopefully long
enough to save up for the proper repair.

The spark plug tube seals an valve cover seal are cheap and easy to
replace. Adjust the valves while you are at it.

Before you do any of this, inspect the vehicle for other problems and
service needs rust, tires, brakes shocks. If the list is too long,
you might think about how much you already have sunk into the car and
what other options you may have. That said, it is probably worth
fixing it up. Keep in mind that anything you buy in this price range
is going to need work sooner rather than later.



>"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
>news:RmVjh.2910$pQ3.694@newsread4.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>> From reading here and experience with my own Honda, going through at least
>> one set of outer CV boots with older Hondas is the norm. With the noise,
>> expect to need new CV joints as well. At least one new radiator is usual,
>> too.
>>
>> A leaky water pump with Hondas is often associated with not using OEM
>> Honda coolant (or, for many of us, the equally effective orange Havoline
>> Dexcool). Was the water pump changed when the timing belt was done?
>>
>> Try to find out what year the TB was changed, btw, since it is both miles
>> and years that will deterimine when it is next due.
>>
>> In my experience (with my 91 Civic, original owner, and reading here),
>> sinking around $1000 into a Honda over a span of a few years mid-life will
>> give several more years of relatively trouble free performance. Especially
>> since you say the engine seems sound, I would consider having this major
>> work done.
>>
>> Please state exactly what kind of 97 Accord you have: manual or auto, EX,
>> DX, whatever, etc.
>>
>> On the oil tube seals, are you getting oil in the spark plug tubes? If so,
>> see item 19 in
>> http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...R+HEAD+%281%29
>>
>> These O-rings do fail around 150k miles give or take. See
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id3.html for my experience
>> changing them out. I think most folks with experience working on cars can
>> do-it-themselves. I mean, if I can, most any wrench-experienced dude/babe
>> can.
>

 

On Mon, 25 Dec 2006 11:20:56 -0800, "Patrick Callaghan"
<patcal096@comcast.net> wrote:

> It is a 97 LX Sedan with F22B2 engine with 5 speed. The previous owner
>did not know anything beside the timing belt that had been changed. Since
>the belt would come off for the water pump change I would do the whole
>shebang. Seals, pensioners, belts, everything. Thanks for the response.
>
>Pat

It sounds like the mechanic that did the TB didn't change the water
pump at the same time. Too bad because this maintenance item could be
put off indefinitely otherwise. Use Honda parts including coolant and
you are good to go on that front.

If the noise isn't too bad, you might consider re greasing and
re-booting the CVs and see how far that gets you. Hopefully long
enough to save up for the proper repair.

The spark plug tube seals an valve cover seal are cheap and easy to
replace. Adjust the valves while you are at it.

Before you do any of this, inspect the vehicle for other problems and
service needs rust, tires, brakes shocks. If the list is too long,
you might think about how much you already have sunk into the car and
what other options you may have. That said, it is probably worth
fixing it up. Keep in mind that anything you buy in this price range
is going to need work sooner rather than later.



>"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
>news:RmVjh.2910$pQ3.694@newsread4.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>> From reading here and experience with my own Honda, going through at least
>> one set of outer CV boots with older Hondas is the norm. With the noise,
>> expect to need new CV joints as well. At least one new radiator is usual,
>> too.
>>
>> A leaky water pump with Hondas is often associated with not using OEM
>> Honda coolant (or, for many of us, the equally effective orange Havoline
>> Dexcool). Was the water pump changed when the timing belt was done?
>>
>> Try to find out what year the TB was changed, btw, since it is both miles
>> and years that will deterimine when it is next due.
>>
>> In my experience (with my 91 Civic, original owner, and reading here),
>> sinking around $1000 into a Honda over a span of a few years mid-life will
>> give several more years of relatively trouble free performance. Especially
>> since you say the engine seems sound, I would consider having this major
>> work done.
>>
>> Please state exactly what kind of 97 Accord you have: manual or auto, EX,
>> DX, whatever, etc.
>>
>> On the oil tube seals, are you getting oil in the spark plug tubes? If so,
>> see item 19 in
>> http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...R+HEAD+%281%29
>>
>> These O-rings do fail around 150k miles give or take. See
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id3.html for my experience
>> changing them out. I think most folks with experience working on cars can
>> do-it-themselves. I mean, if I can, most any wrench-experienced dude/babe
>> can.
>

 

On Mon, 25 Dec 2006 10:49:27 -0800, "Patrick Callaghan"
<patcal096@comcast.net> wrote:

> I have a 97 Accord with 244K miles on it. I have no service records
>with it but I did talk to the original owner. She says the timing belt was
>replaces at about 190K. Nothing else but oil changes in the 8 years she had
>it. Now I seem to have a water pump leaking, ripped CV boots with noise,
>and leaky oil tubes or cam holder seals. I have already replaced the
>radiator & hoses. Is this car worth sinking the money into it? I would do
>most of the work myself. Maybe not the timing belt/waterpump. The car runs
>& starts well with no oil usage. Any thoughts? Thanks.

That's a lot of miles, but not a lot of years.

If you can do the work yourself, it's about a tossup, I think.

I gather the price was right, so you might want to fix it up, drive it
for a few months, then sell it off at a modest price to at least
recover your expenses, or longer if it seems to be going well.

J.

 

On Mon, 25 Dec 2006 10:49:27 -0800, "Patrick Callaghan"
<patcal096@comcast.net> wrote:

> I have a 97 Accord with 244K miles on it. I have no service records
>with it but I did talk to the original owner. She says the timing belt was
>replaces at about 190K. Nothing else but oil changes in the 8 years she had
>it. Now I seem to have a water pump leaking, ripped CV boots with noise,
>and leaky oil tubes or cam holder seals. I have already replaced the
>radiator & hoses. Is this car worth sinking the money into it? I would do
>most of the work myself. Maybe not the timing belt/waterpump. The car runs
>& starts well with no oil usage. Any thoughts? Thanks.

That's a lot of miles, but not a lot of years.

If you can do the work yourself, it's about a tossup, I think.

I gather the price was right, so you might want to fix it up, drive it
for a few months, then sell it off at a modest price to at least
recover your expenses, or longer if it seems to be going well.

J.

 

On Mon, 25 Dec 2006 10:49:27 -0800, "Patrick Callaghan"
<patcal096@comcast.net> wrote:

> I have a 97 Accord with 244K miles on it. I have no service records
>with it but I did talk to the original owner. She says the timing belt was
>replaces at about 190K. Nothing else but oil changes in the 8 years she had
>it. Now I seem to have a water pump leaking, ripped CV boots with noise,
>and leaky oil tubes or cam holder seals. I have already replaced the
>radiator & hoses. Is this car worth sinking the money into it? I would do
>most of the work myself. Maybe not the timing belt/waterpump. The car runs
>& starts well with no oil usage. Any thoughts? Thanks.

That's a lot of miles, but not a lot of years.

If you can do the work yourself, it's about a tossup, I think.

I gather the price was right, so you might want to fix it up, drive it
for a few months, then sell it off at a modest price to at least
recover your expenses, or longer if it seems to be going well.

J.

 

On Mon, 25 Dec 2006 10:49:27 -0800, "Patrick Callaghan"
<patcal096@comcast.net> wrote:

> I have a 97 Accord with 244K miles on it. I have no service records
>with it but I did talk to the original owner. She says the timing belt was
>replaces at about 190K. Nothing else but oil changes in the 8 years she had
>it. Now I seem to have a water pump leaking, ripped CV boots with noise,
>and leaky oil tubes or cam holder seals. I have already replaced the
>radiator & hoses. Is this car worth sinking the money into it? I would do
>most of the work myself. Maybe not the timing belt/waterpump. The car runs
>& starts well with no oil usage. Any thoughts? Thanks.

That's a lot of miles, but not a lot of years.

If you can do the work yourself, it's about a tossup, I think.

I gather the price was right, so you might want to fix it up, drive it
for a few months, then sell it off at a modest price to at least
recover your expenses, or longer if it seems to be going well.

J.

 

Patrick Callaghan wrote:
> I have a 97 Accord with 244K miles on it. I have no service records
> with it but I did talk to the original owner. She says the timing belt was
> replaces at about 190K. Nothing else but oil changes in the 8 years she had
> it. Now I seem to have a water pump leaking, ripped CV boots with noise,
> and leaky oil tubes or cam holder seals. I have already replaced the
> radiator & hoses. Is this car worth sinking the money into it? I would do
> most of the work myself. Maybe not the timing belt/waterpump. The car runs
> & starts well with no oil usage. Any thoughts? Thanks.
>
> Pat Callaghan
>
>
it's worth fixing imo. if you're worried about the health of the
engine, do a compression test, but if as you say it burns no oil, it
should be good.

buy yourself the factory repair manual from helm.com, a pulley wheel
holder tool, and a ball joint separation tool. you should then be set
to go with all these repairs. also go to tegger.com for lots of advice
and useful info on what to do and how, including tools.

re leaky seals, you may need to repair them, but maybe not. different
oils have different qualities of seal conditioners. try a better brand
of oil and see if that helps. [castrol gtx worked for me.]

 

Patrick Callaghan wrote:
> I have a 97 Accord with 244K miles on it. I have no service records
> with it but I did talk to the original owner. She says the timing belt was
> replaces at about 190K. Nothing else but oil changes in the 8 years she had
> it. Now I seem to have a water pump leaking, ripped CV boots with noise,
> and leaky oil tubes or cam holder seals. I have already replaced the
> radiator & hoses. Is this car worth sinking the money into it? I would do
> most of the work myself. Maybe not the timing belt/waterpump. The car runs
> & starts well with no oil usage. Any thoughts? Thanks.
>
> Pat Callaghan
>
>
it's worth fixing imo. if you're worried about the health of the
engine, do a compression test, but if as you say it burns no oil, it
should be good.

buy yourself the factory repair manual from helm.com, a pulley wheel
holder tool, and a ball joint separation tool. you should then be set
to go with all these repairs. also go to tegger.com for lots of advice
and useful info on what to do and how, including tools.

re leaky seals, you may need to repair them, but maybe not. different
oils have different qualities of seal conditioners. try a better brand
of oil and see if that helps. [castrol gtx worked for me.]

 

Patrick Callaghan wrote:
> I have a 97 Accord with 244K miles on it. I have no service records
> with it but I did talk to the original owner. She says the timing belt was
> replaces at about 190K. Nothing else but oil changes in the 8 years she had
> it. Now I seem to have a water pump leaking, ripped CV boots with noise,
> and leaky oil tubes or cam holder seals. I have already replaced the
> radiator & hoses. Is this car worth sinking the money into it? I would do
> most of the work myself. Maybe not the timing belt/waterpump. The car runs
> & starts well with no oil usage. Any thoughts? Thanks.
>
> Pat Callaghan
>
>
it's worth fixing imo. if you're worried about the health of the
engine, do a compression test, but if as you say it burns no oil, it
should be good.

buy yourself the factory repair manual from helm.com, a pulley wheel
holder tool, and a ball joint separation tool. you should then be set
to go with all these repairs. also go to tegger.com for lots of advice
and useful info on what to do and how, including tools.

re leaky seals, you may need to repair them, but maybe not. different
oils have different qualities of seal conditioners. try a better brand
of oil and see if that helps. [castrol gtx worked for me.]

 

Patrick Callaghan wrote:
> I have a 97 Accord with 244K miles on it. I have no service records
> with it but I did talk to the original owner. She says the timing belt was
> replaces at about 190K. Nothing else but oil changes in the 8 years she had
> it. Now I seem to have a water pump leaking, ripped CV boots with noise,
> and leaky oil tubes or cam holder seals. I have already replaced the
> radiator & hoses. Is this car worth sinking the money into it? I would do
> most of the work myself. Maybe not the timing belt/waterpump. The car runs
> & starts well with no oil usage. Any thoughts? Thanks.
>
> Pat Callaghan
>
>
it's worth fixing imo. if you're worried about the health of the
engine, do a compression test, but if as you say it burns no oil, it
should be good.

buy yourself the factory repair manual from helm.com, a pulley wheel
holder tool, and a ball joint separation tool. you should then be set
to go with all these repairs. also go to tegger.com for lots of advice
and useful info on what to do and how, including tools.

re leaky seals, you may need to repair them, but maybe not. different
oils have different qualities of seal conditioners. try a better brand
of oil and see if that helps. [castrol gtx worked for me.]