In article <4187fe26$1_4@alt.athenanews.com>, flycivic
<UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote:

> the other day i woke up and my car had a stumble really bad. drove
> around then let it chill and now it wont crank up at all. first i
> replaced the fuel filter and the plugs. im gettin gas. then i replaced
> the distrib. cap and rotor. still no start. then i went deeper and
> tested the coil-tested fine- then tested and replaced the
> igniter(ignition control module). still no start. i checked with my
> electric tester and im gettin power to my coil from the black/yellow
> wire but it seems like the power wont go to the cap or rotor. im as
> confused as a baby in a tity bar. any help here would be greatly
> appreciated also in my haynes manual it said
> with the wires disconected from the coil i should be gettin power to
> the blue/white wire where it attaches to the igniter- i didnt get
> power there on my old or new igniter

I agree with the other posters and they may have already solved your
problem. If you still have the problem after trying these things, I
suggest that you jump start it (from another battery) and see if it starts
up. If it does start up, it probably means that you need a new battery. If
it won't start when you attempt to jump start it, it could mean you need a
new starter or starter solenoid. There is also the possibility that a
defective alternator is the source of the problem. Some of the auto parts
stores test various parts for free. Sears may also test parts for free but
most of their so called tech people don't know how to perform the tests
properly. You could get lucky--if possibly--watch them.

--
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We respect those subscribers that ask for advice or provide advice.
We do NOT respect the subscribers that enjoy criticizing people.

 

In article <4187fe26$1_4@alt.athenanews.com>, flycivic
<UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote:

> the other day i woke up and my car had a stumble really bad. drove
> around then let it chill and now it wont crank up at all. first i
> replaced the fuel filter and the plugs. im gettin gas. then i replaced
> the distrib. cap and rotor. still no start. then i went deeper and
> tested the coil-tested fine- then tested and replaced the
> igniter(ignition control module). still no start. i checked with my
> electric tester and im gettin power to my coil from the black/yellow
> wire but it seems like the power wont go to the cap or rotor. im as
> confused as a baby in a tity bar. any help here would be greatly
> appreciated also in my haynes manual it said
> with the wires disconected from the coil i should be gettin power to
> the blue/white wire where it attaches to the igniter- i didnt get
> power there on my old or new igniter

I agree with the other posters and they may have already solved your
problem. If you still have the problem after trying these things, I
suggest that you jump start it (from another battery) and see if it starts
up. If it does start up, it probably means that you need a new battery. If
it won't start when you attempt to jump start it, it could mean you need a
new starter or starter solenoid. There is also the possibility that a
defective alternator is the source of the problem. Some of the auto parts
stores test various parts for free. Sears may also test parts for free but
most of their so called tech people don't know how to perform the tests
properly. You could get lucky--if possibly--watch them.

--
NEWSGROUP SUBSCRIBERS MOTTO
We respect those subscribers that ask for advice or provide advice.
We do NOT respect the subscribers that enjoy criticizing people.

 

"flycivic" <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message news:418a5b73$1_4@alt.athenanews.com...

> motsco- yeh the rotor turns no problem with the belt
> remcow-when you saw transformer do you mean the ignitor module or the
> coil? thanks much for all the help

Put a bulb on the coil +, - then crank.
Flash = bad coil. No flash = igniter not switching.

Put a DVOM on the coil +, - then crank.
Toggles between 12VDC and zero = bad coil. No toggle = igniter not switching.

Rick

 

"flycivic" <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message news:418a5b73$1_4@alt.athenanews.com...

> motsco- yeh the rotor turns no problem with the belt
> remcow-when you saw transformer do you mean the ignitor module or the
> coil? thanks much for all the help

Put a bulb on the coil +, - then crank.
Flash = bad coil. No flash = igniter not switching.

Put a DVOM on the coil +, - then crank.
Toggles between 12VDC and zero = bad coil. No toggle = igniter not switching.

Rick

 

There you go -- you should be able to tell where it is coming from
using Rick's test.

One more thing, in case you have to replace the ignitor: the original
one was just attached to a plate with screws. It did not have heat
sink compound between these two surfaces. This stuff will help the
thing get rid of its heat better and will probably help it in getting
old. It is commonly used in the electronic industry and I was quite
surprised none was present.

Heatsink compound can be bought at Radio Shack -- it comes in a tube
and has a toothpaste like consistency. Put a blob on the middle of the
ignitor and tighten the screws - it s out nicely and just wipe
off the excess.

Hope it all worked out for you and get it running soon.
Remco





"Ricky Spartacus" <rickyspartan@mailandnews.com,ricspa@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<1099750601.e0rX8qYcSGLs6sayocykDA@bubbanews> ...
> "flycivic" <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message news:418a5b73$1_4@alt.athenanews.com...
>
> > motsco- yeh the rotor turns no problem with the belt
> > remcow-when you saw transformer do you mean the ignitor module or the
> > coil? thanks much for all the help
>
> Put a bulb on the coil +, - then crank.
> Flash = bad coil. No flash = igniter not switching.
>
> Put a DVOM on the coil +, - then crank.
> Toggles between 12VDC and zero = bad coil. No toggle = igniter not switching.
>
> Rick

 

There you go -- you should be able to tell where it is coming from
using Rick's test.

One more thing, in case you have to replace the ignitor: the original
one was just attached to a plate with screws. It did not have heat
sink compound between these two surfaces. This stuff will help the
thing get rid of its heat better and will probably help it in getting
old. It is commonly used in the electronic industry and I was quite
surprised none was present.

Heatsink compound can be bought at Radio Shack -- it comes in a tube
and has a toothpaste like consistency. Put a blob on the middle of the
ignitor and tighten the screws - it s out nicely and just wipe
off the excess.

Hope it all worked out for you and get it running soon.
Remco





"Ricky Spartacus" <rickyspartan@mailandnews.com,ricspa@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<1099750601.e0rX8qYcSGLs6sayocykDA@bubbanews> ...
> "flycivic" <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message news:418a5b73$1_4@alt.athenanews.com...
>
> > motsco- yeh the rotor turns no problem with the belt
> > remcow-when you saw transformer do you mean the ignitor module or the
> > coil? thanks much for all the help
>
> Put a bulb on the coil +, - then crank.
> Flash = bad coil. No flash = igniter not switching.
>
> Put a DVOM on the coil +, - then crank.
> Toggles between 12VDC and zero = bad coil. No toggle = igniter not switching.
>
> Rick