95 civic still won't start
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 95 civic still won't start
fascion wrote:
>
> jim beam wrote:
> > jim beam wrote:
> > > fascion wrote:
> > >> Timing is on 100% correct.
> > >>
> > > "timing" usually means the # of degrees the spark fires from top dead
> > > center. "firing sequence" is the order in which the plugs fire. if the
> > > plugs fire and fuel injects but it won't start, check the firing sequence.
> >
> > and how did you check the timing if the motor won't run?
>
> Well, I suppose I didn't "check" the timing, I just set it. When the
> distributor rotor was pointing to plug wire 1 ( bottom left ) the
> number one cylinder ( 4 3 2 1 ) was at top dead center. The belt was
> put on, and then tightened.
You have timing problems by the sounds of it.
As mentioned before, you have 'TWO' top dead centers on cylinder number
one.
One is the compression stroke that you find by putting your finger in
the spark plug hole and hand turning over the engine. When the crank
pulley comes up to the 'timing mark', this will show compression under
your finger. Setting it by the rotor just does not work.... You must
use the timing marks.
The 'other' top dead center is when the exhaust valve is open so no
compression will show under you finger. If you used this TDC, the
engine won't run 'usually'
You also 'can' use a timing light to verify that you have it correct.
The timing light will spark with just the starter turning things.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> jim beam wrote:
> > jim beam wrote:
> > > fascion wrote:
> > >> Timing is on 100% correct.
> > >>
> > > "timing" usually means the # of degrees the spark fires from top dead
> > > center. "firing sequence" is the order in which the plugs fire. if the
> > > plugs fire and fuel injects but it won't start, check the firing sequence.
> >
> > and how did you check the timing if the motor won't run?
>
> Well, I suppose I didn't "check" the timing, I just set it. When the
> distributor rotor was pointing to plug wire 1 ( bottom left ) the
> number one cylinder ( 4 3 2 1 ) was at top dead center. The belt was
> put on, and then tightened.
You have timing problems by the sounds of it.
As mentioned before, you have 'TWO' top dead centers on cylinder number
one.
One is the compression stroke that you find by putting your finger in
the spark plug hole and hand turning over the engine. When the crank
pulley comes up to the 'timing mark', this will show compression under
your finger. Setting it by the rotor just does not work.... You must
use the timing marks.
The 'other' top dead center is when the exhaust valve is open so no
compression will show under you finger. If you used this TDC, the
engine won't run 'usually'
You also 'can' use a timing light to verify that you have it correct.
The timing light will spark with just the starter turning things.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 95 civic still won't start
fascion wrote:
>
> jim beam wrote:
> > jim beam wrote:
> > > fascion wrote:
> > >> Timing is on 100% correct.
> > >>
> > > "timing" usually means the # of degrees the spark fires from top dead
> > > center. "firing sequence" is the order in which the plugs fire. if the
> > > plugs fire and fuel injects but it won't start, check the firing sequence.
> >
> > and how did you check the timing if the motor won't run?
>
> Well, I suppose I didn't "check" the timing, I just set it. When the
> distributor rotor was pointing to plug wire 1 ( bottom left ) the
> number one cylinder ( 4 3 2 1 ) was at top dead center. The belt was
> put on, and then tightened.
You have timing problems by the sounds of it.
As mentioned before, you have 'TWO' top dead centers on cylinder number
one.
One is the compression stroke that you find by putting your finger in
the spark plug hole and hand turning over the engine. When the crank
pulley comes up to the 'timing mark', this will show compression under
your finger. Setting it by the rotor just does not work.... You must
use the timing marks.
The 'other' top dead center is when the exhaust valve is open so no
compression will show under you finger. If you used this TDC, the
engine won't run 'usually'
You also 'can' use a timing light to verify that you have it correct.
The timing light will spark with just the starter turning things.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> jim beam wrote:
> > jim beam wrote:
> > > fascion wrote:
> > >> Timing is on 100% correct.
> > >>
> > > "timing" usually means the # of degrees the spark fires from top dead
> > > center. "firing sequence" is the order in which the plugs fire. if the
> > > plugs fire and fuel injects but it won't start, check the firing sequence.
> >
> > and how did you check the timing if the motor won't run?
>
> Well, I suppose I didn't "check" the timing, I just set it. When the
> distributor rotor was pointing to plug wire 1 ( bottom left ) the
> number one cylinder ( 4 3 2 1 ) was at top dead center. The belt was
> put on, and then tightened.
You have timing problems by the sounds of it.
As mentioned before, you have 'TWO' top dead centers on cylinder number
one.
One is the compression stroke that you find by putting your finger in
the spark plug hole and hand turning over the engine. When the crank
pulley comes up to the 'timing mark', this will show compression under
your finger. Setting it by the rotor just does not work.... You must
use the timing marks.
The 'other' top dead center is when the exhaust valve is open so no
compression will show under you finger. If you used this TDC, the
engine won't run 'usually'
You also 'can' use a timing light to verify that you have it correct.
The timing light will spark with just the starter turning things.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 95 civic still won't start
fascion wrote:
>
> jim beam wrote:
> > jim beam wrote:
> > > fascion wrote:
> > >> Timing is on 100% correct.
> > >>
> > > "timing" usually means the # of degrees the spark fires from top dead
> > > center. "firing sequence" is the order in which the plugs fire. if the
> > > plugs fire and fuel injects but it won't start, check the firing sequence.
> >
> > and how did you check the timing if the motor won't run?
>
> Well, I suppose I didn't "check" the timing, I just set it. When the
> distributor rotor was pointing to plug wire 1 ( bottom left ) the
> number one cylinder ( 4 3 2 1 ) was at top dead center. The belt was
> put on, and then tightened.
You have timing problems by the sounds of it.
As mentioned before, you have 'TWO' top dead centers on cylinder number
one.
One is the compression stroke that you find by putting your finger in
the spark plug hole and hand turning over the engine. When the crank
pulley comes up to the 'timing mark', this will show compression under
your finger. Setting it by the rotor just does not work.... You must
use the timing marks.
The 'other' top dead center is when the exhaust valve is open so no
compression will show under you finger. If you used this TDC, the
engine won't run 'usually'
You also 'can' use a timing light to verify that you have it correct.
The timing light will spark with just the starter turning things.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> jim beam wrote:
> > jim beam wrote:
> > > fascion wrote:
> > >> Timing is on 100% correct.
> > >>
> > > "timing" usually means the # of degrees the spark fires from top dead
> > > center. "firing sequence" is the order in which the plugs fire. if the
> > > plugs fire and fuel injects but it won't start, check the firing sequence.
> >
> > and how did you check the timing if the motor won't run?
>
> Well, I suppose I didn't "check" the timing, I just set it. When the
> distributor rotor was pointing to plug wire 1 ( bottom left ) the
> number one cylinder ( 4 3 2 1 ) was at top dead center. The belt was
> put on, and then tightened.
You have timing problems by the sounds of it.
As mentioned before, you have 'TWO' top dead centers on cylinder number
one.
One is the compression stroke that you find by putting your finger in
the spark plug hole and hand turning over the engine. When the crank
pulley comes up to the 'timing mark', this will show compression under
your finger. Setting it by the rotor just does not work.... You must
use the timing marks.
The 'other' top dead center is when the exhaust valve is open so no
compression will show under you finger. If you used this TDC, the
engine won't run 'usually'
You also 'can' use a timing light to verify that you have it correct.
The timing light will spark with just the starter turning things.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 95 civic still won't start
fascion wrote:
> jim beam wrote:
>> jim beam wrote:
>>> fascion wrote:
>>>> Timing is on 100% correct.
>>>>
>>> "timing" usually means the # of degrees the spark fires from top dead
>>> center. "firing sequence" is the order in which the plugs fire. if the
>>> plugs fire and fuel injects but it won't start, check the firing sequence.
>> and how did you check the timing if the motor won't run?
>
> Well, I suppose I didn't "check" the timing, I just set it. When the
> distributor rotor was pointing to plug wire 1 ( bottom left ) the
> number one cylinder ( 4 3 2 1 ) was at top dead center. The belt was
> put on, and then tightened.
>
check the ignition timing and the firing sequence for the spark plugs,
not the cam belt timing. cam timing is important and it's vital it's
set right, but the motor will run with cam timing a little out, same for
ignition timing. it will /not/ run if the plugs are firing in the wrong
order.
> jim beam wrote:
>> jim beam wrote:
>>> fascion wrote:
>>>> Timing is on 100% correct.
>>>>
>>> "timing" usually means the # of degrees the spark fires from top dead
>>> center. "firing sequence" is the order in which the plugs fire. if the
>>> plugs fire and fuel injects but it won't start, check the firing sequence.
>> and how did you check the timing if the motor won't run?
>
> Well, I suppose I didn't "check" the timing, I just set it. When the
> distributor rotor was pointing to plug wire 1 ( bottom left ) the
> number one cylinder ( 4 3 2 1 ) was at top dead center. The belt was
> put on, and then tightened.
>
check the ignition timing and the firing sequence for the spark plugs,
not the cam belt timing. cam timing is important and it's vital it's
set right, but the motor will run with cam timing a little out, same for
ignition timing. it will /not/ run if the plugs are firing in the wrong
order.
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 95 civic still won't start
fascion wrote:
> jim beam wrote:
>> jim beam wrote:
>>> fascion wrote:
>>>> Timing is on 100% correct.
>>>>
>>> "timing" usually means the # of degrees the spark fires from top dead
>>> center. "firing sequence" is the order in which the plugs fire. if the
>>> plugs fire and fuel injects but it won't start, check the firing sequence.
>> and how did you check the timing if the motor won't run?
>
> Well, I suppose I didn't "check" the timing, I just set it. When the
> distributor rotor was pointing to plug wire 1 ( bottom left ) the
> number one cylinder ( 4 3 2 1 ) was at top dead center. The belt was
> put on, and then tightened.
>
check the ignition timing and the firing sequence for the spark plugs,
not the cam belt timing. cam timing is important and it's vital it's
set right, but the motor will run with cam timing a little out, same for
ignition timing. it will /not/ run if the plugs are firing in the wrong
order.
> jim beam wrote:
>> jim beam wrote:
>>> fascion wrote:
>>>> Timing is on 100% correct.
>>>>
>>> "timing" usually means the # of degrees the spark fires from top dead
>>> center. "firing sequence" is the order in which the plugs fire. if the
>>> plugs fire and fuel injects but it won't start, check the firing sequence.
>> and how did you check the timing if the motor won't run?
>
> Well, I suppose I didn't "check" the timing, I just set it. When the
> distributor rotor was pointing to plug wire 1 ( bottom left ) the
> number one cylinder ( 4 3 2 1 ) was at top dead center. The belt was
> put on, and then tightened.
>
check the ignition timing and the firing sequence for the spark plugs,
not the cam belt timing. cam timing is important and it's vital it's
set right, but the motor will run with cam timing a little out, same for
ignition timing. it will /not/ run if the plugs are firing in the wrong
order.
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 95 civic still won't start
fascion wrote:
> jim beam wrote:
>> jim beam wrote:
>>> fascion wrote:
>>>> Timing is on 100% correct.
>>>>
>>> "timing" usually means the # of degrees the spark fires from top dead
>>> center. "firing sequence" is the order in which the plugs fire. if the
>>> plugs fire and fuel injects but it won't start, check the firing sequence.
>> and how did you check the timing if the motor won't run?
>
> Well, I suppose I didn't "check" the timing, I just set it. When the
> distributor rotor was pointing to plug wire 1 ( bottom left ) the
> number one cylinder ( 4 3 2 1 ) was at top dead center. The belt was
> put on, and then tightened.
>
check the ignition timing and the firing sequence for the spark plugs,
not the cam belt timing. cam timing is important and it's vital it's
set right, but the motor will run with cam timing a little out, same for
ignition timing. it will /not/ run if the plugs are firing in the wrong
order.
> jim beam wrote:
>> jim beam wrote:
>>> fascion wrote:
>>>> Timing is on 100% correct.
>>>>
>>> "timing" usually means the # of degrees the spark fires from top dead
>>> center. "firing sequence" is the order in which the plugs fire. if the
>>> plugs fire and fuel injects but it won't start, check the firing sequence.
>> and how did you check the timing if the motor won't run?
>
> Well, I suppose I didn't "check" the timing, I just set it. When the
> distributor rotor was pointing to plug wire 1 ( bottom left ) the
> number one cylinder ( 4 3 2 1 ) was at top dead center. The belt was
> put on, and then tightened.
>
check the ignition timing and the firing sequence for the spark plugs,
not the cam belt timing. cam timing is important and it's vital it's
set right, but the motor will run with cam timing a little out, same for
ignition timing. it will /not/ run if the plugs are firing in the wrong
order.
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 95 civic still won't start
fascion wrote:
> jim beam wrote:
>> jim beam wrote:
>>> fascion wrote:
>>>> Timing is on 100% correct.
>>>>
>>> "timing" usually means the # of degrees the spark fires from top dead
>>> center. "firing sequence" is the order in which the plugs fire. if the
>>> plugs fire and fuel injects but it won't start, check the firing sequence.
>> and how did you check the timing if the motor won't run?
>
> Well, I suppose I didn't "check" the timing, I just set it. When the
> distributor rotor was pointing to plug wire 1 ( bottom left ) the
> number one cylinder ( 4 3 2 1 ) was at top dead center. The belt was
> put on, and then tightened.
>
check the ignition timing and the firing sequence for the spark plugs,
not the cam belt timing. cam timing is important and it's vital it's
set right, but the motor will run with cam timing a little out, same for
ignition timing. it will /not/ run if the plugs are firing in the wrong
order.
> jim beam wrote:
>> jim beam wrote:
>>> fascion wrote:
>>>> Timing is on 100% correct.
>>>>
>>> "timing" usually means the # of degrees the spark fires from top dead
>>> center. "firing sequence" is the order in which the plugs fire. if the
>>> plugs fire and fuel injects but it won't start, check the firing sequence.
>> and how did you check the timing if the motor won't run?
>
> Well, I suppose I didn't "check" the timing, I just set it. When the
> distributor rotor was pointing to plug wire 1 ( bottom left ) the
> number one cylinder ( 4 3 2 1 ) was at top dead center. The belt was
> put on, and then tightened.
>
check the ignition timing and the firing sequence for the spark plugs,
not the cam belt timing. cam timing is important and it's vital it's
set right, but the motor will run with cam timing a little out, same for
ignition timing. it will /not/ run if the plugs are firing in the wrong
order.
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 95 civic still won't start
> If my new alternator was bad, would that prevent the car from starting?
No, because the alternator does not actually charge the battery
until after the motor is running, an engine will run for quite some
time on the battery alone
> Is it possible my ECU is fried?
Possible but unlikely, it usually takes a bad input signal to
fry electronics, which you would not have created by pulling plugs
> Would a bad ground prevent the car from starting?
Yes but if you have spark this is not the case
I'm not sure how you would do it in this model, but it may be worth
checking for air flow. I cant think of any way that pulling a plug
could permanently disable an engine, aside from creating a loose
connection to the spark plug itself. This cant be what is happening if
you are getting a spark though
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 95 civic still won't start
> If my new alternator was bad, would that prevent the car from starting?
No, because the alternator does not actually charge the battery
until after the motor is running, an engine will run for quite some
time on the battery alone
> Is it possible my ECU is fried?
Possible but unlikely, it usually takes a bad input signal to
fry electronics, which you would not have created by pulling plugs
> Would a bad ground prevent the car from starting?
Yes but if you have spark this is not the case
I'm not sure how you would do it in this model, but it may be worth
checking for air flow. I cant think of any way that pulling a plug
could permanently disable an engine, aside from creating a loose
connection to the spark plug itself. This cant be what is happening if
you are getting a spark though
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 95 civic still won't start
> If my new alternator was bad, would that prevent the car from starting?
No, because the alternator does not actually charge the battery
until after the motor is running, an engine will run for quite some
time on the battery alone
> Is it possible my ECU is fried?
Possible but unlikely, it usually takes a bad input signal to
fry electronics, which you would not have created by pulling plugs
> Would a bad ground prevent the car from starting?
Yes but if you have spark this is not the case
I'm not sure how you would do it in this model, but it may be worth
checking for air flow. I cant think of any way that pulling a plug
could permanently disable an engine, aside from creating a loose
connection to the spark plug itself. This cant be what is happening if
you are getting a spark though
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 95 civic still won't start
> If my new alternator was bad, would that prevent the car from starting?
No, because the alternator does not actually charge the battery
until after the motor is running, an engine will run for quite some
time on the battery alone
> Is it possible my ECU is fried?
Possible but unlikely, it usually takes a bad input signal to
fry electronics, which you would not have created by pulling plugs
> Would a bad ground prevent the car from starting?
Yes but if you have spark this is not the case
I'm not sure how you would do it in this model, but it may be worth
checking for air flow. I cant think of any way that pulling a plug
could permanently disable an engine, aside from creating a loose
connection to the spark plug itself. This cant be what is happening if
you are getting a spark though
#42
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 95 civic still won't start
"Josh" <shannon_joshua@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1166875300.951550.43600@i12g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> I cant think of any way that pulling a plug
> could permanently disable an engine, aside from creating a loose
> connection to the spark plug itself. This cant be what is happening if
> you are getting a spark though
>
At least in Honda engines, opening a spark lead can zap the coil. My own
experience in that is visible in
http://tegger.com/hondafaq/badsecond...al-arcing.html (d'oh!) In that
case there was no detectable spark, but the damage can be less so that a
spark can be seen but it won't produce enough voltage to fire the plugs
under compression. If the coil can produce a half inch spark that ought to
do the job.
Mike
news:1166875300.951550.43600@i12g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> I cant think of any way that pulling a plug
> could permanently disable an engine, aside from creating a loose
> connection to the spark plug itself. This cant be what is happening if
> you are getting a spark though
>
At least in Honda engines, opening a spark lead can zap the coil. My own
experience in that is visible in
http://tegger.com/hondafaq/badsecond...al-arcing.html (d'oh!) In that
case there was no detectable spark, but the damage can be less so that a
spark can be seen but it won't produce enough voltage to fire the plugs
under compression. If the coil can produce a half inch spark that ought to
do the job.
Mike
#43
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 95 civic still won't start
"Josh" <shannon_joshua@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1166875300.951550.43600@i12g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> I cant think of any way that pulling a plug
> could permanently disable an engine, aside from creating a loose
> connection to the spark plug itself. This cant be what is happening if
> you are getting a spark though
>
At least in Honda engines, opening a spark lead can zap the coil. My own
experience in that is visible in
http://tegger.com/hondafaq/badsecond...al-arcing.html (d'oh!) In that
case there was no detectable spark, but the damage can be less so that a
spark can be seen but it won't produce enough voltage to fire the plugs
under compression. If the coil can produce a half inch spark that ought to
do the job.
Mike
news:1166875300.951550.43600@i12g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> I cant think of any way that pulling a plug
> could permanently disable an engine, aside from creating a loose
> connection to the spark plug itself. This cant be what is happening if
> you are getting a spark though
>
At least in Honda engines, opening a spark lead can zap the coil. My own
experience in that is visible in
http://tegger.com/hondafaq/badsecond...al-arcing.html (d'oh!) In that
case there was no detectable spark, but the damage can be less so that a
spark can be seen but it won't produce enough voltage to fire the plugs
under compression. If the coil can produce a half inch spark that ought to
do the job.
Mike
#44
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 95 civic still won't start
"Josh" <shannon_joshua@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1166875300.951550.43600@i12g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> I cant think of any way that pulling a plug
> could permanently disable an engine, aside from creating a loose
> connection to the spark plug itself. This cant be what is happening if
> you are getting a spark though
>
At least in Honda engines, opening a spark lead can zap the coil. My own
experience in that is visible in
http://tegger.com/hondafaq/badsecond...al-arcing.html (d'oh!) In that
case there was no detectable spark, but the damage can be less so that a
spark can be seen but it won't produce enough voltage to fire the plugs
under compression. If the coil can produce a half inch spark that ought to
do the job.
Mike
news:1166875300.951550.43600@i12g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> I cant think of any way that pulling a plug
> could permanently disable an engine, aside from creating a loose
> connection to the spark plug itself. This cant be what is happening if
> you are getting a spark though
>
At least in Honda engines, opening a spark lead can zap the coil. My own
experience in that is visible in
http://tegger.com/hondafaq/badsecond...al-arcing.html (d'oh!) In that
case there was no detectable spark, but the damage can be less so that a
spark can be seen but it won't produce enough voltage to fire the plugs
under compression. If the coil can produce a half inch spark that ought to
do the job.
Mike
#45
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 95 civic still won't start
"Josh" <shannon_joshua@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1166875300.951550.43600@i12g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> I cant think of any way that pulling a plug
> could permanently disable an engine, aside from creating a loose
> connection to the spark plug itself. This cant be what is happening if
> you are getting a spark though
>
At least in Honda engines, opening a spark lead can zap the coil. My own
experience in that is visible in
http://tegger.com/hondafaq/badsecond...al-arcing.html (d'oh!) In that
case there was no detectable spark, but the damage can be less so that a
spark can be seen but it won't produce enough voltage to fire the plugs
under compression. If the coil can produce a half inch spark that ought to
do the job.
Mike
news:1166875300.951550.43600@i12g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> I cant think of any way that pulling a plug
> could permanently disable an engine, aside from creating a loose
> connection to the spark plug itself. This cant be what is happening if
> you are getting a spark though
>
At least in Honda engines, opening a spark lead can zap the coil. My own
experience in that is visible in
http://tegger.com/hondafaq/badsecond...al-arcing.html (d'oh!) In that
case there was no detectable spark, but the damage can be less so that a
spark can be seen but it won't produce enough voltage to fire the plugs
under compression. If the coil can produce a half inch spark that ought to
do the job.
Mike