"Doug and Rene Brand" <brand@rushmore.com> wrote in message
news:1183218479.781251.90360@g4g2000hsf.googlegrou ps.com...
> The timing belt is brand new. That is one of the things I replaced
> when replacing the water pump.
>
> I was wondering maybe I should swap out the motor for a lower mileage
> engine or v-tec engine. The compression on this motor seems a little
> low at 140psi compared to other 1.5's with 180-200psi. It doesn't use
> any oil but it does have rod slap when cold outside. I was thinking
> maybe I should swap it out with a JDM import 1.5 VTEC engine with
> 40,000-60,000 miles for around $600. Just a head gasket kit will run
> $120-$150, if that is all I need.
>
>
I wouldn't be concerned about the compression since the numbers are
consistent across the cylinders; it just isn't designed for premium gas. The
piston slap is more worrisome and is a good reason to think about going JDM.
But just to be sure: it is piston slap (quiets down in about five minutes)
rather than an exhaust leak (quiets down in about one minute)? If so, JDM
sounds attractive in your situation.

Mike

 

Doug and Rene Brand wrote:
> The timing belt is brand new. That is one of the things I replaced
> when replacing the water pump.
>
> I was wondering maybe I should swap out the motor for a lower mileage
> engine or v-tec engine. The compression on this motor seems a little
> low at 140psi compared to other 1.5's with 180-200psi.

doesn't make a lot of difference at operating speeds. compressions on
both my civic and crx are "low", but they both run great, the civic
particularly.

> It doesn't use
> any oil but it does have rod slap

it's piston slap. it's not necessarily a problem. my 2000 civic did it
from about 20k and that thing was babied.

> when cold outside. I was thinking
> maybe I should swap it out with a JDM import 1.5 VTEC engine with
> 40,000-60,000 miles for around $600. Just a head gasket kit will run
> $120-$150, if that is all I need.
>
good question. personally, i lean towards replacement. changing the
gasket, and doing a good job of it, is long hard work. shops do it
because the long labor hours are profitable. and they routinely use
abrasives. and they routinely skim heads. and they shrug off the
subsequent failures with a "don't blame me, the engine was already shot"
attitude that is as ignorant as it is annoying.

unless i had a special reason to preserve a particular engine, or had a
lot more time and no money, i would replace the motor. these low
mileage jdm motors are cheap and work just great. a whole motor swap
takes a good deal less time than the head prep.

your problem with the vtec conversion is wiring in the vtec solenoid.
if you don't already have that motor, you'll need to upgrade the ecu and
engine electrics accordingly. it's non-trivial doing that. it's not
hard, and there's plenty of resources on the subject [checkout
boomslang.com] but it's still non-trivial. done right, it's worth the
effort though.

good luck.

 

Doug and Rene Brand wrote:
> The timing belt is brand new. That is one of the things I replaced
> when replacing the water pump.
>
> I was wondering maybe I should swap out the motor for a lower mileage
> engine or v-tec engine. The compression on this motor seems a little
> low at 140psi compared to other 1.5's with 180-200psi.

doesn't make a lot of difference at operating speeds. compressions on
both my civic and crx are "low", but they both run great, the civic
particularly.

> It doesn't use
> any oil but it does have rod slap

it's piston slap. it's not necessarily a problem. my 2000 civic did it
from about 20k and that thing was babied.

> when cold outside. I was thinking
> maybe I should swap it out with a JDM import 1.5 VTEC engine with
> 40,000-60,000 miles for around $600. Just a head gasket kit will run
> $120-$150, if that is all I need.
>
good question. personally, i lean towards replacement. changing the
gasket, and doing a good job of it, is long hard work. shops do it
because the long labor hours are profitable. and they routinely use
abrasives. and they routinely skim heads. and they shrug off the
subsequent failures with a "don't blame me, the engine was already shot"
attitude that is as ignorant as it is annoying.

unless i had a special reason to preserve a particular engine, or had a
lot more time and no money, i would replace the motor. these low
mileage jdm motors are cheap and work just great. a whole motor swap
takes a good deal less time than the head prep.

your problem with the vtec conversion is wiring in the vtec solenoid.
if you don't already have that motor, you'll need to upgrade the ecu and
engine electrics accordingly. it's non-trivial doing that. it's not
hard, and there's plenty of resources on the subject [checkout
boomslang.com] but it's still non-trivial. done right, it's worth the
effort though.

good luck.

 

Doug and Rene Brand wrote:
> The timing belt is brand new. That is one of the things I replaced
> when replacing the water pump.
>
> I was wondering maybe I should swap out the motor for a lower mileage
> engine or v-tec engine. The compression on this motor seems a little
> low at 140psi compared to other 1.5's with 180-200psi.

doesn't make a lot of difference at operating speeds. compressions on
both my civic and crx are "low", but they both run great, the civic
particularly.

> It doesn't use
> any oil but it does have rod slap

it's piston slap. it's not necessarily a problem. my 2000 civic did it
from about 20k and that thing was babied.

> when cold outside. I was thinking
> maybe I should swap it out with a JDM import 1.5 VTEC engine with
> 40,000-60,000 miles for around $600. Just a head gasket kit will run
> $120-$150, if that is all I need.
>
good question. personally, i lean towards replacement. changing the
gasket, and doing a good job of it, is long hard work. shops do it
because the long labor hours are profitable. and they routinely use
abrasives. and they routinely skim heads. and they shrug off the
subsequent failures with a "don't blame me, the engine was already shot"
attitude that is as ignorant as it is annoying.

unless i had a special reason to preserve a particular engine, or had a
lot more time and no money, i would replace the motor. these low
mileage jdm motors are cheap and work just great. a whole motor swap
takes a good deal less time than the head prep.

your problem with the vtec conversion is wiring in the vtec solenoid.
if you don't already have that motor, you'll need to upgrade the ecu and
engine electrics accordingly. it's non-trivial doing that. it's not
hard, and there's plenty of resources on the subject [checkout
boomslang.com] but it's still non-trivial. done right, it's worth the
effort though.

good luck.

 

The engine I have now is a D15B7 1.5 liter 16 valve. What will the
milaage difference be between a JDM 1.5 VTEC versus what I have?

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2011708

>From what I read from the link above, it sounds like all you need to
do with this type of engine swap is to bypass the VTEC oil pressure
switch. Is that true or do I need to get a VTEC ECU brain box?

Also, what is OBD1 and OBD2?

 

The engine I have now is a D15B7 1.5 liter 16 valve. What will the
milaage difference be between a JDM 1.5 VTEC versus what I have?

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2011708

>From what I read from the link above, it sounds like all you need to
do with this type of engine swap is to bypass the VTEC oil pressure
switch. Is that true or do I need to get a VTEC ECU brain box?

Also, what is OBD1 and OBD2?

 

The engine I have now is a D15B7 1.5 liter 16 valve. What will the
milaage difference be between a JDM 1.5 VTEC versus what I have?

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2011708

>From what I read from the link above, it sounds like all you need to
do with this type of engine swap is to bypass the VTEC oil pressure
switch. Is that true or do I need to get a VTEC ECU brain box?

Also, what is OBD1 and OBD2?

 

The engine I have now is a D15B7 1.5 liter 16 valve SOHC. What will
the mileage difference be between a JDM 1.5 VTEC versus what I have?

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2011708

>From what I read from the link above, it sounds like all you need to
do with this type of engine swap is to bypass the VTEC oil pressure
switch. Is that true or do I need to get a VTEC ECU brain box?

Also, what is OBD1 and OBD2?

And what is the difference between a 1.5 VTEC-E economy and a 1.5
VTEC?

 

The engine I have now is a D15B7 1.5 liter 16 valve SOHC. What will
the mileage difference be between a JDM 1.5 VTEC versus what I have?

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2011708

>From what I read from the link above, it sounds like all you need to
do with this type of engine swap is to bypass the VTEC oil pressure
switch. Is that true or do I need to get a VTEC ECU brain box?

Also, what is OBD1 and OBD2?

And what is the difference between a 1.5 VTEC-E economy and a 1.5
VTEC?

 

The engine I have now is a D15B7 1.5 liter 16 valve SOHC. What will
the mileage difference be between a JDM 1.5 VTEC versus what I have?

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2011708

>From what I read from the link above, it sounds like all you need to
do with this type of engine swap is to bypass the VTEC oil pressure
switch. Is that true or do I need to get a VTEC ECU brain box?

Also, what is OBD1 and OBD2?

And what is the difference between a 1.5 VTEC-E economy and a 1.5
VTEC?

 

Doug and Rene Brand wrote:
> The engine I have now is a D15B7 1.5 liter 16 valve. What will the
> milaage difference be between a JDM 1.5 VTEC versus what I have?
>
> http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2011708
>
>>From what I read from the link above, it sounds like all you need to
> do with this type of engine swap is to bypass the VTEC oil pressure
> switch.

that's wrong - do /not/ "bypass" the pressure switch. you have two sets
of cam lobes - one for high revs, one for low. if you don't switch the
cams, you'll be stuck on one or the other, with sucky performance at one
end of the range, depending on how you're switched.


> Is that true or do I need to get a VTEC ECU brain box?

ideally, you need the vtec ecu - it has a higher red line than the
non-vtec as well as the right switchover programming. but if you don't
use one, you can also use a rev sensitive switch to handle the cam for
you. google this group as the same question came up a few weeks ago.

>
> Also, what is OBD1 and OBD2?
>

you have obd1. stick with it.

 

Doug and Rene Brand wrote:
> The engine I have now is a D15B7 1.5 liter 16 valve. What will the
> milaage difference be between a JDM 1.5 VTEC versus what I have?
>
> http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2011708
>
>>From what I read from the link above, it sounds like all you need to
> do with this type of engine swap is to bypass the VTEC oil pressure
> switch.

that's wrong - do /not/ "bypass" the pressure switch. you have two sets
of cam lobes - one for high revs, one for low. if you don't switch the
cams, you'll be stuck on one or the other, with sucky performance at one
end of the range, depending on how you're switched.


> Is that true or do I need to get a VTEC ECU brain box?

ideally, you need the vtec ecu - it has a higher red line than the
non-vtec as well as the right switchover programming. but if you don't
use one, you can also use a rev sensitive switch to handle the cam for
you. google this group as the same question came up a few weeks ago.

>
> Also, what is OBD1 and OBD2?
>

you have obd1. stick with it.

 

Doug and Rene Brand wrote:
> The engine I have now is a D15B7 1.5 liter 16 valve. What will the
> milaage difference be between a JDM 1.5 VTEC versus what I have?
>
> http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2011708
>
>>From what I read from the link above, it sounds like all you need to
> do with this type of engine swap is to bypass the VTEC oil pressure
> switch.

that's wrong - do /not/ "bypass" the pressure switch. you have two sets
of cam lobes - one for high revs, one for low. if you don't switch the
cams, you'll be stuck on one or the other, with sucky performance at one
end of the range, depending on how you're switched.


> Is that true or do I need to get a VTEC ECU brain box?

ideally, you need the vtec ecu - it has a higher red line than the
non-vtec as well as the right switchover programming. but if you don't
use one, you can also use a rev sensitive switch to handle the cam for
you. google this group as the same question came up a few weeks ago.

>
> Also, what is OBD1 and OBD2?
>

you have obd1. stick with it.

 

What is the best way to find an ECU for a D15B VTEC or D15Z1 VTEC-E?

>From researching, the ECU would have to be a P28 or P72, correct?

The P28 and P72 ECU's state they are for a 1.6 liter VTEC engine. Are
the JDM 1.5 liter VTEC's actually USDM 1.6 liter VTEC engines?

This is getting more confusing.

 

What is the best way to find an ECU for a D15B VTEC or D15Z1 VTEC-E?

>From researching, the ECU would have to be a P28 or P72, correct?

The P28 and P72 ECU's state they are for a 1.6 liter VTEC engine. Are
the JDM 1.5 liter VTEC's actually USDM 1.6 liter VTEC engines?

This is getting more confusing.