I have a 95 Honda Civic that I was having problems with overheating.
It would push antifreeze out the coolant reservoir until it was out of
coolant. I ended up replacing the thermostat, water pump, fan temp
switch, and radiator cap but nothing fixed the problem. I then
started to suspect a coolant leak in the head gasket. I connected an
air hose to each cylinder using my compression tester hose. When I put
air pressure to #4 cylinder @ TDC, the coolant level in the radiator
would rise and spill out over the top of the radiator.

My question is, when I tear into the head gasket, how will I know if
it is the head gasket or a cracked head? Will it show signs on the
head gasket where it is leaking or will you be able to see a crack in
the head?

Also, should I do any other maintanance while I have the head off? The
car has 137,000 miles.

 

I should also mention the compression on all 4 cylinders was 140-145
psi.

 

I should also mention the compression on all 4 cylinders was 140-145
psi.

 

I should also mention the compression on all 4 cylinders was 140-145
psi.

 

Doug and Rene Brand <brand@rushmore.com> wrote in
news:1183155032.554689.21790@k79g2000hse.googlegro ups.com:

> I have a 95 Honda Civic that I was having problems with overheating.
> It would push antifreeze out the coolant reservoir until it was out of
> coolant. I ended up replacing the thermostat, water pump, fan temp
> switch, and radiator cap but nothing fixed the problem. I then
> started to suspect a coolant leak in the head gasket. I connected an
> air hose to each cylinder using my compression tester hose. When I put
> air pressure to #4 cylinder @ TDC, the coolant level in the radiator
> would rise and spill out over the top of the radiator.



Then there y'go. That's your smoking gun.


>
> My question is, when I tear into the head gasket, how will I know if
> it is the head gasket or a cracked head? Will it show signs on the
> head gasket where it is leaking or will you be able to see a crack in
> the head?


You cannot know until the head is magnafluxed.

Chances are just about 100% that it's simply a failed head gasket. As a
general rule, Honda heads do not crack.


>
> Also, should I do any other maintanance while I have the head off? The
> car has 137,000 miles.
>



Replacing the valve guide oil seals would be an excellent idea, if you
don't mind spending the money.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

Doug and Rene Brand <brand@rushmore.com> wrote in
news:1183155032.554689.21790@k79g2000hse.googlegro ups.com:

> I have a 95 Honda Civic that I was having problems with overheating.
> It would push antifreeze out the coolant reservoir until it was out of
> coolant. I ended up replacing the thermostat, water pump, fan temp
> switch, and radiator cap but nothing fixed the problem. I then
> started to suspect a coolant leak in the head gasket. I connected an
> air hose to each cylinder using my compression tester hose. When I put
> air pressure to #4 cylinder @ TDC, the coolant level in the radiator
> would rise and spill out over the top of the radiator.



Then there y'go. That's your smoking gun.


>
> My question is, when I tear into the head gasket, how will I know if
> it is the head gasket or a cracked head? Will it show signs on the
> head gasket where it is leaking or will you be able to see a crack in
> the head?


You cannot know until the head is magnafluxed.

Chances are just about 100% that it's simply a failed head gasket. As a
general rule, Honda heads do not crack.


>
> Also, should I do any other maintanance while I have the head off? The
> car has 137,000 miles.
>



Replacing the valve guide oil seals would be an excellent idea, if you
don't mind spending the money.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

Doug and Rene Brand <brand@rushmore.com> wrote in
news:1183155032.554689.21790@k79g2000hse.googlegro ups.com:

> I have a 95 Honda Civic that I was having problems with overheating.
> It would push antifreeze out the coolant reservoir until it was out of
> coolant. I ended up replacing the thermostat, water pump, fan temp
> switch, and radiator cap but nothing fixed the problem. I then
> started to suspect a coolant leak in the head gasket. I connected an
> air hose to each cylinder using my compression tester hose. When I put
> air pressure to #4 cylinder @ TDC, the coolant level in the radiator
> would rise and spill out over the top of the radiator.



Then there y'go. That's your smoking gun.


>
> My question is, when I tear into the head gasket, how will I know if
> it is the head gasket or a cracked head? Will it show signs on the
> head gasket where it is leaking or will you be able to see a crack in
> the head?


You cannot know until the head is magnafluxed.

Chances are just about 100% that it's simply a failed head gasket. As a
general rule, Honda heads do not crack.


>
> Also, should I do any other maintanance while I have the head off? The
> car has 137,000 miles.
>



Replacing the valve guide oil seals would be an excellent idea, if you
don't mind spending the money.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

Doug and Rene Brand wrote:
> I have a 95 Honda Civic that I was having problems with overheating.
> It would push antifreeze out the coolant reservoir until it was out of
> coolant. I ended up replacing the thermostat, water pump, fan temp
> switch, and radiator cap but nothing fixed the problem. I then
> started to suspect a coolant leak in the head gasket. I connected an
> air hose to each cylinder using my compression tester hose. When I put
> air pressure to #4 cylinder @ TDC, the coolant level in the radiator
> would rise and spill out over the top of the radiator.

gasket!

>
> My question is, when I tear into the head gasket, how will I know if
> it is the head gasket or a cracked head? Will it show signs on the
> head gasket where it is leaking or will you be able to see a crack in
> the head?

hondas _rarely_ crack heads.


>
> Also, should I do any other maintanance while I have the head off? The
> car has 137,000 miles.
>
how new is the timing belt? and as tegger says, stem seals are good too.

if doing this work yourself, DO NOT use abrasives to clean the head or
the block. that includes scotchbrite. use only a blade to carefully
clean. it takes time! abrasives, no matter how you try to avoid it,
accumulate under the rings and quickly ruin compression and dramatically
increase oil consumption. avoid having the head skimmed too unless it's
warped. and i bet it's not.

allow plenty of time - this is an all day job if you're going to do it
carefully and well.

 

Doug and Rene Brand wrote:
> I have a 95 Honda Civic that I was having problems with overheating.
> It would push antifreeze out the coolant reservoir until it was out of
> coolant. I ended up replacing the thermostat, water pump, fan temp
> switch, and radiator cap but nothing fixed the problem. I then
> started to suspect a coolant leak in the head gasket. I connected an
> air hose to each cylinder using my compression tester hose. When I put
> air pressure to #4 cylinder @ TDC, the coolant level in the radiator
> would rise and spill out over the top of the radiator.

gasket!

>
> My question is, when I tear into the head gasket, how will I know if
> it is the head gasket or a cracked head? Will it show signs on the
> head gasket where it is leaking or will you be able to see a crack in
> the head?

hondas _rarely_ crack heads.


>
> Also, should I do any other maintanance while I have the head off? The
> car has 137,000 miles.
>
how new is the timing belt? and as tegger says, stem seals are good too.

if doing this work yourself, DO NOT use abrasives to clean the head or
the block. that includes scotchbrite. use only a blade to carefully
clean. it takes time! abrasives, no matter how you try to avoid it,
accumulate under the rings and quickly ruin compression and dramatically
increase oil consumption. avoid having the head skimmed too unless it's
warped. and i bet it's not.

allow plenty of time - this is an all day job if you're going to do it
carefully and well.

 

Doug and Rene Brand wrote:
> I have a 95 Honda Civic that I was having problems with overheating.
> It would push antifreeze out the coolant reservoir until it was out of
> coolant. I ended up replacing the thermostat, water pump, fan temp
> switch, and radiator cap but nothing fixed the problem. I then
> started to suspect a coolant leak in the head gasket. I connected an
> air hose to each cylinder using my compression tester hose. When I put
> air pressure to #4 cylinder @ TDC, the coolant level in the radiator
> would rise and spill out over the top of the radiator.

gasket!

>
> My question is, when I tear into the head gasket, how will I know if
> it is the head gasket or a cracked head? Will it show signs on the
> head gasket where it is leaking or will you be able to see a crack in
> the head?

hondas _rarely_ crack heads.


>
> Also, should I do any other maintanance while I have the head off? The
> car has 137,000 miles.
>
how new is the timing belt? and as tegger says, stem seals are good too.

if doing this work yourself, DO NOT use abrasives to clean the head or
the block. that includes scotchbrite. use only a blade to carefully
clean. it takes time! abrasives, no matter how you try to avoid it,
accumulate under the rings and quickly ruin compression and dramatically
increase oil consumption. avoid having the head skimmed too unless it's
warped. and i bet it's not.

allow plenty of time - this is an all day job if you're going to do it
carefully and well.

 

The timing belt is brand new. That is one of the things I replaced
when replacing the water pump.

I was wondering maybe I should swap out the motor for a lower mileage
engine or v-tec engine. The compression on this motor seems a little
low at 140psi compared to other 1.5's with 180-200psi. It doesn't use
any oil but it does have rod slap when cold outside. I was thinking
maybe I should swap it out with a JDM import 1.5 VTEC engine with
40,000-60,000 miles for around $600. Just a head gasket kit will run
$120-$150, if that is all I need.

 

The timing belt is brand new. That is one of the things I replaced
when replacing the water pump.

I was wondering maybe I should swap out the motor for a lower mileage
engine or v-tec engine. The compression on this motor seems a little
low at 140psi compared to other 1.5's with 180-200psi. It doesn't use
any oil but it does have rod slap when cold outside. I was thinking
maybe I should swap it out with a JDM import 1.5 VTEC engine with
40,000-60,000 miles for around $600. Just a head gasket kit will run
$120-$150, if that is all I need.

 

The timing belt is brand new. That is one of the things I replaced
when replacing the water pump.

I was wondering maybe I should swap out the motor for a lower mileage
engine or v-tec engine. The compression on this motor seems a little
low at 140psi compared to other 1.5's with 180-200psi. It doesn't use
any oil but it does have rod slap when cold outside. I was thinking
maybe I should swap it out with a JDM import 1.5 VTEC engine with
40,000-60,000 miles for around $600. Just a head gasket kit will run
$120-$150, if that is all I need.

 

"Doug and Rene Brand" <brand@rushmore.com> wrote in message
news:1183218479.781251.90360@g4g2000hsf.googlegrou ps.com...
> The timing belt is brand new. That is one of the things I replaced
> when replacing the water pump.
>
> I was wondering maybe I should swap out the motor for a lower mileage
> engine or v-tec engine. The compression on this motor seems a little
> low at 140psi compared to other 1.5's with 180-200psi. It doesn't use
> any oil but it does have rod slap when cold outside. I was thinking
> maybe I should swap it out with a JDM import 1.5 VTEC engine with
> 40,000-60,000 miles for around $600. Just a head gasket kit will run
> $120-$150, if that is all I need.
>
>
I wouldn't be concerned about the compression since the numbers are
consistent across the cylinders; it just isn't designed for premium gas. The
piston slap is more worrisome and is a good reason to think about going JDM.
But just to be sure: it is piston slap (quiets down in about five minutes)
rather than an exhaust leak (quiets down in about one minute)? If so, JDM
sounds attractive in your situation.

Mike

 

"Doug and Rene Brand" <brand@rushmore.com> wrote in message
news:1183218479.781251.90360@g4g2000hsf.googlegrou ps.com...
> The timing belt is brand new. That is one of the things I replaced
> when replacing the water pump.
>
> I was wondering maybe I should swap out the motor for a lower mileage
> engine or v-tec engine. The compression on this motor seems a little
> low at 140psi compared to other 1.5's with 180-200psi. It doesn't use
> any oil but it does have rod slap when cold outside. I was thinking
> maybe I should swap it out with a JDM import 1.5 VTEC engine with
> 40,000-60,000 miles for around $600. Just a head gasket kit will run
> $120-$150, if that is all I need.
>
>
I wouldn't be concerned about the compression since the numbers are
consistent across the cylinders; it just isn't designed for premium gas. The
piston slap is more worrisome and is a good reason to think about going JDM.
But just to be sure: it is piston slap (quiets down in about five minutes)
rather than an exhaust leak (quiets down in about one minute)? If so, JDM
sounds attractive in your situation.

Mike