95 Accord LX. Owned in family since new. 110,000 miles on it now.
Having problem with the temperature control ****. **** is not cracked
like has happened six times on my '92 Accord. Normal sweep of control
**** is from cold at nine o'clock position to full hot at 3 o'clock.
**** now only able to rotate from about ten thirty position to one
thirty. **** will move past these spots, but will rebound on it's own.
Disconnected the hot water valve control cable at the valve, and valve
operates fully and easily. Cable seams to move a door or something on or
in the heater box under the dash as well as the water valve.
I don't think the problem is with the cable, but has something to do
with the door functions at the heater box.
Am I on the right track? Has anyone been there before and do you have
any ideas? bob

 

"N.E.Ohio Bob" <rgstroud@neo.rr.com> wrote in message
news:457c071c$0$13722$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
> 95 Accord LX. Owned in family since new. 110,000 miles on it now.
> Having problem with the temperature control ****. **** is not cracked like
> has happened six times on my '92 Accord. Normal sweep of control **** is
> from cold at nine o'clock position to full hot at 3 o'clock. **** now only
> able to rotate from about ten thirty position to one thirty. **** will
> move past these spots, but will rebound on it's own.
> Disconnected the hot water valve control cable at the valve, and valve
> operates fully and easily. Cable seams to move a door or something on or
> in the heater box under the dash as well as the water valve.
> I don't think the problem is with the cable, but has something to do with
> the door functions at the heater box.
> Am I on the right track? Has anyone been there before and do you have any
> ideas? bob

That was the story on my daughter's '93. Apparently the valve had been
stubborn enough to get the cables out of whack in the heater box. Pulling
the cover off the side (near the passenger's left foot, comes off and goes
back on easily) revealed all the workings. Knowing that the cables are
adjusted by reclamping the housings, it is all pretty obvious.

Mike

 

"N.E.Ohio Bob" <rgstroud@neo.rr.com> wrote in message
news:457c071c$0$13722$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
> 95 Accord LX. Owned in family since new. 110,000 miles on it now.
> Having problem with the temperature control ****. **** is not cracked like
> has happened six times on my '92 Accord. Normal sweep of control **** is
> from cold at nine o'clock position to full hot at 3 o'clock. **** now only
> able to rotate from about ten thirty position to one thirty. **** will
> move past these spots, but will rebound on it's own.
> Disconnected the hot water valve control cable at the valve, and valve
> operates fully and easily. Cable seams to move a door or something on or
> in the heater box under the dash as well as the water valve.
> I don't think the problem is with the cable, but has something to do with
> the door functions at the heater box.
> Am I on the right track? Has anyone been there before and do you have any
> ideas? bob

That was the story on my daughter's '93. Apparently the valve had been
stubborn enough to get the cables out of whack in the heater box. Pulling
the cover off the side (near the passenger's left foot, comes off and goes
back on easily) revealed all the workings. Knowing that the cables are
adjusted by reclamping the housings, it is all pretty obvious.

Mike

 

"N.E.Ohio Bob" <rgstroud@neo.rr.com> wrote in message
news:457c071c$0$13722$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
> 95 Accord LX. Owned in family since new. 110,000 miles on it now.
> Having problem with the temperature control ****. **** is not cracked like
> has happened six times on my '92 Accord. Normal sweep of control **** is
> from cold at nine o'clock position to full hot at 3 o'clock. **** now only
> able to rotate from about ten thirty position to one thirty. **** will
> move past these spots, but will rebound on it's own.
> Disconnected the hot water valve control cable at the valve, and valve
> operates fully and easily. Cable seams to move a door or something on or
> in the heater box under the dash as well as the water valve.
> I don't think the problem is with the cable, but has something to do with
> the door functions at the heater box.
> Am I on the right track? Has anyone been there before and do you have any
> ideas? bob

That was the story on my daughter's '93. Apparently the valve had been
stubborn enough to get the cables out of whack in the heater box. Pulling
the cover off the side (near the passenger's left foot, comes off and goes
back on easily) revealed all the workings. Knowing that the cables are
adjusted by reclamping the housings, it is all pretty obvious.

Mike

 

"N.E.Ohio Bob" <rgstroud@neo.rr.com> wrote in message
news:457c071c$0$13722$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
> 95 Accord LX. Owned in family since new. 110,000 miles on it now.
> Having problem with the temperature control ****. **** is not cracked like
> has happened six times on my '92 Accord. Normal sweep of control **** is
> from cold at nine o'clock position to full hot at 3 o'clock. **** now only
> able to rotate from about ten thirty position to one thirty. **** will
> move past these spots, but will rebound on it's own.
> Disconnected the hot water valve control cable at the valve, and valve
> operates fully and easily. Cable seams to move a door or something on or
> in the heater box under the dash as well as the water valve.
> I don't think the problem is with the cable, but has something to do with
> the door functions at the heater box.
> Am I on the right track? Has anyone been there before and do you have any
> ideas? bob

That was the story on my daughter's '93. Apparently the valve had been
stubborn enough to get the cables out of whack in the heater box. Pulling
the cover off the side (near the passenger's left foot, comes off and goes
back on easily) revealed all the workings. Knowing that the cables are
adjusted by reclamping the housings, it is all pretty obvious.

Mike

 

N.E.Ohio Bob wrote:
> 95 Accord LX. Owned in family since new. 110,000 miles on it now.
> Having problem with the temperature control ****. **** is not
> cracked like has happened six times on my '92 Accord. Normal sweep of
> control **** is from cold at nine o'clock position to full hot at 3
> o'clock. **** now only able to rotate from about ten thirty position to
> one thirty. **** will move past these spots, but will rebound on it's own.
> Disconnected the hot water valve control cable at the valve, and
> valve operates fully and easily. Cable seams to move a door or something
> on or in the heater box under the dash as well as the water valve.
> I don't think the problem is with the cable, but has something to do
> with the door functions at the heater box.
> Am I on the right track? Has anyone been there before and do you
> have any ideas? bob

as mike says, a cable's been mispositioned. go underneath the console
to the foot wells and make sure all the cable have full travel at each
end of their dials. one of mine kept slipping [i kept kicking it] until
i cable-tied it into a slightly different route from factory. now all
is well. simple d.i.y. fix.

 

N.E.Ohio Bob wrote:
> 95 Accord LX. Owned in family since new. 110,000 miles on it now.
> Having problem with the temperature control ****. **** is not
> cracked like has happened six times on my '92 Accord. Normal sweep of
> control **** is from cold at nine o'clock position to full hot at 3
> o'clock. **** now only able to rotate from about ten thirty position to
> one thirty. **** will move past these spots, but will rebound on it's own.
> Disconnected the hot water valve control cable at the valve, and
> valve operates fully and easily. Cable seams to move a door or something
> on or in the heater box under the dash as well as the water valve.
> I don't think the problem is with the cable, but has something to do
> with the door functions at the heater box.
> Am I on the right track? Has anyone been there before and do you
> have any ideas? bob

as mike says, a cable's been mispositioned. go underneath the console
to the foot wells and make sure all the cable have full travel at each
end of their dials. one of mine kept slipping [i kept kicking it] until
i cable-tied it into a slightly different route from factory. now all
is well. simple d.i.y. fix.

 

N.E.Ohio Bob wrote:
> 95 Accord LX. Owned in family since new. 110,000 miles on it now.
> Having problem with the temperature control ****. **** is not
> cracked like has happened six times on my '92 Accord. Normal sweep of
> control **** is from cold at nine o'clock position to full hot at 3
> o'clock. **** now only able to rotate from about ten thirty position to
> one thirty. **** will move past these spots, but will rebound on it's own.
> Disconnected the hot water valve control cable at the valve, and
> valve operates fully and easily. Cable seams to move a door or something
> on or in the heater box under the dash as well as the water valve.
> I don't think the problem is with the cable, but has something to do
> with the door functions at the heater box.
> Am I on the right track? Has anyone been there before and do you
> have any ideas? bob

as mike says, a cable's been mispositioned. go underneath the console
to the foot wells and make sure all the cable have full travel at each
end of their dials. one of mine kept slipping [i kept kicking it] until
i cable-tied it into a slightly different route from factory. now all
is well. simple d.i.y. fix.

 

N.E.Ohio Bob wrote:
> 95 Accord LX. Owned in family since new. 110,000 miles on it now.
> Having problem with the temperature control ****. **** is not
> cracked like has happened six times on my '92 Accord. Normal sweep of
> control **** is from cold at nine o'clock position to full hot at 3
> o'clock. **** now only able to rotate from about ten thirty position to
> one thirty. **** will move past these spots, but will rebound on it's own.
> Disconnected the hot water valve control cable at the valve, and
> valve operates fully and easily. Cable seams to move a door or something
> on or in the heater box under the dash as well as the water valve.
> I don't think the problem is with the cable, but has something to do
> with the door functions at the heater box.
> Am I on the right track? Has anyone been there before and do you
> have any ideas? bob

as mike says, a cable's been mispositioned. go underneath the console
to the foot wells and make sure all the cable have full travel at each
end of their dials. one of mine kept slipping [i kept kicking it] until
i cable-tied it into a slightly different route from factory. now all
is well. simple d.i.y. fix.

 

N.E.Ohio Bob wrote:
> 95 Accord LX. Owned in family since new. 110,000 miles on it now.
> Having problem with the temperature control ****. **** is not
> cracked like has happened six times on my '92 Accord. Normal sweep of
> control **** is from cold at nine o'clock position to full hot at 3
> o'clock. **** now only able to rotate from about ten thirty position to
> one thirty. **** will move past these spots, but will rebound on it's own.
> Disconnected the hot water valve control cable at the valve, and
> valve operates fully and easily. Cable seams to move a door or something
> on or in the heater box under the dash as well as the water valve.
> I don't think the problem is with the cable, but has something to do
> with the door functions at the heater box.
> Am I on the right track? Has anyone been there before and do you
> have any ideas? bob

========================================

You are on the right track, as others have said. _IF_ you find that any
cables are binding, use LockEase (graphite) rather than anything
dino-based. It won't gum up in the cold. Cables are best left alone, but
our first Odyssey needed lube. Drop the blower motor too (unplug
connector, remove three screws) and use compressed air while you're
under there. The cover on the lower end of the motor comes off with two
screws and you can blow about 1/2 ounce of carbon dust from the brushes
area, which will help the motor run cooler, longer. Don't oil the motor
unless you know what you're doing. There are pictures of the heat 'mixer
box' (I think that's it's name) on the web. I used to have it. . . .
Same as '95 Odyssey I'm sure. www.slhondaparts.com has exploded views
and part numbers.

'Curly'

 

N.E.Ohio Bob wrote:
> 95 Accord LX. Owned in family since new. 110,000 miles on it now.
> Having problem with the temperature control ****. **** is not
> cracked like has happened six times on my '92 Accord. Normal sweep of
> control **** is from cold at nine o'clock position to full hot at 3
> o'clock. **** now only able to rotate from about ten thirty position to
> one thirty. **** will move past these spots, but will rebound on it's own.
> Disconnected the hot water valve control cable at the valve, and
> valve operates fully and easily. Cable seams to move a door or something
> on or in the heater box under the dash as well as the water valve.
> I don't think the problem is with the cable, but has something to do
> with the door functions at the heater box.
> Am I on the right track? Has anyone been there before and do you
> have any ideas? bob

========================================

You are on the right track, as others have said. _IF_ you find that any
cables are binding, use LockEase (graphite) rather than anything
dino-based. It won't gum up in the cold. Cables are best left alone, but
our first Odyssey needed lube. Drop the blower motor too (unplug
connector, remove three screws) and use compressed air while you're
under there. The cover on the lower end of the motor comes off with two
screws and you can blow about 1/2 ounce of carbon dust from the brushes
area, which will help the motor run cooler, longer. Don't oil the motor
unless you know what you're doing. There are pictures of the heat 'mixer
box' (I think that's it's name) on the web. I used to have it. . . .
Same as '95 Odyssey I'm sure. www.slhondaparts.com has exploded views
and part numbers.

'Curly'

 

N.E.Ohio Bob wrote:
> 95 Accord LX. Owned in family since new. 110,000 miles on it now.
> Having problem with the temperature control ****. **** is not
> cracked like has happened six times on my '92 Accord. Normal sweep of
> control **** is from cold at nine o'clock position to full hot at 3
> o'clock. **** now only able to rotate from about ten thirty position to
> one thirty. **** will move past these spots, but will rebound on it's own.
> Disconnected the hot water valve control cable at the valve, and
> valve operates fully and easily. Cable seams to move a door or something
> on or in the heater box under the dash as well as the water valve.
> I don't think the problem is with the cable, but has something to do
> with the door functions at the heater box.
> Am I on the right track? Has anyone been there before and do you
> have any ideas? bob

========================================

You are on the right track, as others have said. _IF_ you find that any
cables are binding, use LockEase (graphite) rather than anything
dino-based. It won't gum up in the cold. Cables are best left alone, but
our first Odyssey needed lube. Drop the blower motor too (unplug
connector, remove three screws) and use compressed air while you're
under there. The cover on the lower end of the motor comes off with two
screws and you can blow about 1/2 ounce of carbon dust from the brushes
area, which will help the motor run cooler, longer. Don't oil the motor
unless you know what you're doing. There are pictures of the heat 'mixer
box' (I think that's it's name) on the web. I used to have it. . . .
Same as '95 Odyssey I'm sure. www.slhondaparts.com has exploded views
and part numbers.

'Curly'

 

N.E.Ohio Bob wrote:
> 95 Accord LX. Owned in family since new. 110,000 miles on it now.
> Having problem with the temperature control ****. **** is not
> cracked like has happened six times on my '92 Accord. Normal sweep of
> control **** is from cold at nine o'clock position to full hot at 3
> o'clock. **** now only able to rotate from about ten thirty position to
> one thirty. **** will move past these spots, but will rebound on it's own.
> Disconnected the hot water valve control cable at the valve, and
> valve operates fully and easily. Cable seams to move a door or something
> on or in the heater box under the dash as well as the water valve.
> I don't think the problem is with the cable, but has something to do
> with the door functions at the heater box.
> Am I on the right track? Has anyone been there before and do you
> have any ideas? bob

========================================

You are on the right track, as others have said. _IF_ you find that any
cables are binding, use LockEase (graphite) rather than anything
dino-based. It won't gum up in the cold. Cables are best left alone, but
our first Odyssey needed lube. Drop the blower motor too (unplug
connector, remove three screws) and use compressed air while you're
under there. The cover on the lower end of the motor comes off with two
screws and you can blow about 1/2 ounce of carbon dust from the brushes
area, which will help the motor run cooler, longer. Don't oil the motor
unless you know what you're doing. There are pictures of the heat 'mixer
box' (I think that's it's name) on the web. I used to have it. . . .
Same as '95 Odyssey I'm sure. www.slhondaparts.com has exploded views
and part numbers.

'Curly'

 

Thank you to all who posted. I'll have a go at it tomorow. Weather
here is unseasonably warm. Will be a nice way to spend some time
outdoors. bob

 

Thank you to all who posted. I'll have a go at it tomorow. Weather
here is unseasonably warm. Will be a nice way to spend some time
outdoors. bob