James Goforth wrote:

> A friend has a '95 Accord wagon and has found both front CV shafts in
> need of replacement.

One more word of advice. Avoid the $80 rebuilt shafts. Look for
remanufactured HONDA shafts (from the $tealership), visit raxles.com,
or, at the very least, get new aftermarket. (The 'Cardone Select' line
supposedly uses brand new joints.) The cheap remanufactured units
invariably shred themselve within 50~100K miles, often sooner.

-Greg

 

Greg Campbell wrote:
> James Goforth wrote:
>
>> A friend has a '95 Accord wagon and has found both front CV shafts in
>> need of replacement.
>
> One more word of advice. Avoid the $80 rebuilt shafts. Look for
> remanufactured HONDA shafts (from the $tealership), visit raxles.com,
> or, at the very least, get new aftermarket. (The 'Cardone Select' line
> supposedly uses brand new joints.) The cheap remanufactured units
> invariably shred themselve within 50~100K miles, often sooner.
>
> -Greg

i agree with you that aftermarket's don't last as long as oem, and that
you should avoid the cheapo ones, but aftermarket's should be considered
based on economics.

oem don't last 300k miles usually because the boots break, and when they
do, game over. it's better then to spend $90, twice, for a reasonable
quality aftermarket and get 150k out of them [say 75k each set], than
spend $300+ for oem and get 100k. because oem boots only last about
that long.

would i go oem for ultimate quality? yes. but when i do the work
myself and changing a shaft, with the right tools, only takes about 20
minutes, and it costs $90 for an all-new napa brand shaft with lifetime
warranty, then i go aftermarket.

 

Greg Campbell wrote:
> James Goforth wrote:
>
>> A friend has a '95 Accord wagon and has found both front CV shafts in
>> need of replacement.
>
> One more word of advice. Avoid the $80 rebuilt shafts. Look for
> remanufactured HONDA shafts (from the $tealership), visit raxles.com,
> or, at the very least, get new aftermarket. (The 'Cardone Select' line
> supposedly uses brand new joints.) The cheap remanufactured units
> invariably shred themselve within 50~100K miles, often sooner.
>
> -Greg

i agree with you that aftermarket's don't last as long as oem, and that
you should avoid the cheapo ones, but aftermarket's should be considered
based on economics.

oem don't last 300k miles usually because the boots break, and when they
do, game over. it's better then to spend $90, twice, for a reasonable
quality aftermarket and get 150k out of them [say 75k each set], than
spend $300+ for oem and get 100k. because oem boots only last about
that long.

would i go oem for ultimate quality? yes. but when i do the work
myself and changing a shaft, with the right tools, only takes about 20
minutes, and it costs $90 for an all-new napa brand shaft with lifetime
warranty, then i go aftermarket.

 

Greg Campbell wrote:
> James Goforth wrote:
>
>> A friend has a '95 Accord wagon and has found both front CV shafts in
>> need of replacement.
>
> One more word of advice. Avoid the $80 rebuilt shafts. Look for
> remanufactured HONDA shafts (from the $tealership), visit raxles.com,
> or, at the very least, get new aftermarket. (The 'Cardone Select' line
> supposedly uses brand new joints.) The cheap remanufactured units
> invariably shred themselve within 50~100K miles, often sooner.
>
> -Greg

i agree with you that aftermarket's don't last as long as oem, and that
you should avoid the cheapo ones, but aftermarket's should be considered
based on economics.

oem don't last 300k miles usually because the boots break, and when they
do, game over. it's better then to spend $90, twice, for a reasonable
quality aftermarket and get 150k out of them [say 75k each set], than
spend $300+ for oem and get 100k. because oem boots only last about
that long.

would i go oem for ultimate quality? yes. but when i do the work
myself and changing a shaft, with the right tools, only takes about 20
minutes, and it costs $90 for an all-new napa brand shaft with lifetime
warranty, then i go aftermarket.

 

"Greg Campbell" <ggeonerdd@ccoxx.nnett> wrote in message
news:tRyfi.390260$ZA5.34504@newsfe15.phx...
> I've heard stories of the less robust electric guns not getting it done.
> Rent the bigest one you can find. Depending on the rental shop, you might
> even sweet talk them into a "5 minute rental" for cheap. Buz the nut
> loose, then you can then tighten it with the bar, drive home, and easily
> remove it to do the work.
>
> Along the same lines, if you have a regular mechanic, he will probably buz
> the thing loose for a few bucks. I had a hell of a time convincing the
> local shops that a loose nut wouldn't wreck the bearings or fall off
> within 5 seconds. YMMV.
>

Caveat - the tightness of the nut ensures it doesn't let the splines shift.
If the splined pieces rub against each other it will damage the splines,
resulting in a maddening situation where both pieces have to be replaced
simultaneously to stop the disease. Driving home with the nut as tight as
hand tools will get it should be no problem.

Mike

 

"Greg Campbell" <ggeonerdd@ccoxx.nnett> wrote in message
news:tRyfi.390260$ZA5.34504@newsfe15.phx...
> I've heard stories of the less robust electric guns not getting it done.
> Rent the bigest one you can find. Depending on the rental shop, you might
> even sweet talk them into a "5 minute rental" for cheap. Buz the nut
> loose, then you can then tighten it with the bar, drive home, and easily
> remove it to do the work.
>
> Along the same lines, if you have a regular mechanic, he will probably buz
> the thing loose for a few bucks. I had a hell of a time convincing the
> local shops that a loose nut wouldn't wreck the bearings or fall off
> within 5 seconds. YMMV.
>

Caveat - the tightness of the nut ensures it doesn't let the splines shift.
If the splined pieces rub against each other it will damage the splines,
resulting in a maddening situation where both pieces have to be replaced
simultaneously to stop the disease. Driving home with the nut as tight as
hand tools will get it should be no problem.

Mike

 

"Greg Campbell" <ggeonerdd@ccoxx.nnett> wrote in message
news:tRyfi.390260$ZA5.34504@newsfe15.phx...
> I've heard stories of the less robust electric guns not getting it done.
> Rent the bigest one you can find. Depending on the rental shop, you might
> even sweet talk them into a "5 minute rental" for cheap. Buz the nut
> loose, then you can then tighten it with the bar, drive home, and easily
> remove it to do the work.
>
> Along the same lines, if you have a regular mechanic, he will probably buz
> the thing loose for a few bucks. I had a hell of a time convincing the
> local shops that a loose nut wouldn't wreck the bearings or fall off
> within 5 seconds. YMMV.
>

Caveat - the tightness of the nut ensures it doesn't let the splines shift.
If the splined pieces rub against each other it will damage the splines,
resulting in a maddening situation where both pieces have to be replaced
simultaneously to stop the disease. Driving home with the nut as tight as
hand tools will get it should be no problem.

Mike