Final update. I just pulled the DRL control module off the car, opened
it up and indeed the board had developed hairline cracks on some of the
solder points. I just resoldered them, and now it's working like a charm.

I strongly recommend this fix to anybody that has this problem. If you
have minimal soldering skills it takes about 5-10mins. The contacts are
huge, there's plenty of room to work on it, in other words, it's a joke
to fix it. Even if you don't know how to do it, take the board to any TV
repair shop (or any other place that solders stuff), they won't be able
to charge more than $10-20, and you'll save at least CAD$130...

Just my 2cents (worth of tin)

Cosmin

Cosmin N. wrote:
> As an update, I just called Honda Sisley (Toronto, ON) and they quoted
> me CAD$145 (about US$110), which I can't justify right now. I'll pull
> mine off the car and see if I can fix it myself, since I'm allright with
> a soldering iron. The damn thing's not working anyways, so even if I
> screw it up, I won't be worse off than before.
>
> I'm getting worried with the electrical system in my car though. This is
> the 3rd thing to fail (driver's side window switch, gas tank sensor and
> a couple other intermitent problems). I cleaned up and fixed the switch,
> haven't gotten around to look at the sensor yet. The body's in mint
> condition (which says a lot for a 10 year old car in Toronto), engine's
> mint and tranny runs well. But the electrics are dying out.
>
> Realistically, I could sell this car for CAD$6000 easily. I could add
> another CAD$2000 and buy an 96-97 Integra with less kms on it. But would
> I be better off? Does the Integra have the same electrical problems as
> my Accord?
>
> Thanks for all the input so far guys, you've been a great help.
>
> Cosmin
>
> Cosmin N. wrote:
>
>> My Accord's DRL system (daylight running lights) does not activate
>> when disengaging the parking brake (as it should). At the same time,
>> the right high beam does not work either, even though the bulb is ok.
>> I've been having this problem for some time, but only intermitently,
>> under seemingly random conditions. However, recently it's happening
>> most of the time.
>>
>> From a previous post I've gathered that the DRL and the right high
>> beam are on the same circuit, and most likely I have a burnt relay.
>> My question is, does anyone know which relay in particular is most
>> likely to be burnt and where I can find it?
>>
>> I'm assuming it's on the right side electric circuit (fairly obvious
>> :P ), but other than that I'm at a loss. I have the maintenance manual
>> for the car, but I could not find that info in there last time I read
>> it. I'll look again tomorrow, but I hope someone with the same problem
>> solved it before.
>>
>> Email me at cr0c0 at softhome dot net if you have any info, but I'd
>> rather you reply to the newsgroup. That way it can help other people too.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Cosmin
>>
>

 

Final update. I just pulled the DRL control module off the car, opened
it up and indeed the board had developed hairline cracks on some of the
solder points. I just resoldered them, and now it's working like a charm.

I strongly recommend this fix to anybody that has this problem. If you
have minimal soldering skills it takes about 5-10mins. The contacts are
huge, there's plenty of room to work on it, in other words, it's a joke
to fix it. Even if you don't know how to do it, take the board to any TV
repair shop (or any other place that solders stuff), they won't be able
to charge more than $10-20, and you'll save at least CAD$130...

Just my 2cents (worth of tin)

Cosmin

Cosmin N. wrote:
> As an update, I just called Honda Sisley (Toronto, ON) and they quoted
> me CAD$145 (about US$110), which I can't justify right now. I'll pull
> mine off the car and see if I can fix it myself, since I'm allright with
> a soldering iron. The damn thing's not working anyways, so even if I
> screw it up, I won't be worse off than before.
>
> I'm getting worried with the electrical system in my car though. This is
> the 3rd thing to fail (driver's side window switch, gas tank sensor and
> a couple other intermitent problems). I cleaned up and fixed the switch,
> haven't gotten around to look at the sensor yet. The body's in mint
> condition (which says a lot for a 10 year old car in Toronto), engine's
> mint and tranny runs well. But the electrics are dying out.
>
> Realistically, I could sell this car for CAD$6000 easily. I could add
> another CAD$2000 and buy an 96-97 Integra with less kms on it. But would
> I be better off? Does the Integra have the same electrical problems as
> my Accord?
>
> Thanks for all the input so far guys, you've been a great help.
>
> Cosmin
>
> Cosmin N. wrote:
>
>> My Accord's DRL system (daylight running lights) does not activate
>> when disengaging the parking brake (as it should). At the same time,
>> the right high beam does not work either, even though the bulb is ok.
>> I've been having this problem for some time, but only intermitently,
>> under seemingly random conditions. However, recently it's happening
>> most of the time.
>>
>> From a previous post I've gathered that the DRL and the right high
>> beam are on the same circuit, and most likely I have a burnt relay.
>> My question is, does anyone know which relay in particular is most
>> likely to be burnt and where I can find it?
>>
>> I'm assuming it's on the right side electric circuit (fairly obvious
>> :P ), but other than that I'm at a loss. I have the maintenance manual
>> for the car, but I could not find that info in there last time I read
>> it. I'll look again tomorrow, but I hope someone with the same problem
>> solved it before.
>>
>> Email me at cr0c0 at softhome dot net if you have any info, but I'd
>> rather you reply to the newsgroup. That way it can help other people too.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Cosmin
>>
>

 

Final update. I just pulled the DRL control module off the car, opened
it up and indeed the board had developed hairline cracks on some of the
solder points. I just resoldered them, and now it's working like a charm.

I strongly recommend this fix to anybody that has this problem. If you
have minimal soldering skills it takes about 5-10mins. The contacts are
huge, there's plenty of room to work on it, in other words, it's a joke
to fix it. Even if you don't know how to do it, take the board to any TV
repair shop (or any other place that solders stuff), they won't be able
to charge more than $10-20, and you'll save at least CAD$130...

Just my 2cents (worth of tin)

Cosmin

Cosmin N. wrote:
> As an update, I just called Honda Sisley (Toronto, ON) and they quoted
> me CAD$145 (about US$110), which I can't justify right now. I'll pull
> mine off the car and see if I can fix it myself, since I'm allright with
> a soldering iron. The damn thing's not working anyways, so even if I
> screw it up, I won't be worse off than before.
>
> I'm getting worried with the electrical system in my car though. This is
> the 3rd thing to fail (driver's side window switch, gas tank sensor and
> a couple other intermitent problems). I cleaned up and fixed the switch,
> haven't gotten around to look at the sensor yet. The body's in mint
> condition (which says a lot for a 10 year old car in Toronto), engine's
> mint and tranny runs well. But the electrics are dying out.
>
> Realistically, I could sell this car for CAD$6000 easily. I could add
> another CAD$2000 and buy an 96-97 Integra with less kms on it. But would
> I be better off? Does the Integra have the same electrical problems as
> my Accord?
>
> Thanks for all the input so far guys, you've been a great help.
>
> Cosmin
>
> Cosmin N. wrote:
>
>> My Accord's DRL system (daylight running lights) does not activate
>> when disengaging the parking brake (as it should). At the same time,
>> the right high beam does not work either, even though the bulb is ok.
>> I've been having this problem for some time, but only intermitently,
>> under seemingly random conditions. However, recently it's happening
>> most of the time.
>>
>> From a previous post I've gathered that the DRL and the right high
>> beam are on the same circuit, and most likely I have a burnt relay.
>> My question is, does anyone know which relay in particular is most
>> likely to be burnt and where I can find it?
>>
>> I'm assuming it's on the right side electric circuit (fairly obvious
>> :P ), but other than that I'm at a loss. I have the maintenance manual
>> for the car, but I could not find that info in there last time I read
>> it. I'll look again tomorrow, but I hope someone with the same problem
>> solved it before.
>>
>> Email me at cr0c0 at softhome dot net if you have any info, but I'd
>> rather you reply to the newsgroup. That way it can help other people too.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Cosmin
>>
>

 

But do you know precisly where it is located ? What does it look like ?

Tks.

alain.

 

But do you know precisly where it is located ? What does it look like ?

Tks.

alain.

 

But do you know precisly where it is located ? What does it look like ?

Tks.

alain.

 

But do you know precisly where it is located ? What does it look like ?

Tks.

alain.

 

Yes. It's inside the cabin, on the left side. If you'll get under the
steering wheel column, you'll see a space with a lot of wires going into
several boxes. The DRL module is high up close to the wall. It's a
pretty big (about 10x10x5cm or 4x4x2in, mabe a bit smaller) box, gray,
with a blue 14 pin connector (I didn't count them, but that's what it
said in a previous post). You'll only see the bottom of it, with the
connector pointing downwards. It's clipped onto a metal tab, push it
upwards ONLY to release it. It required NO force on my car, so don't
pull on it too hard.

To disassemble it is fairly easy, just take a flat head screwdriver and
gently pry it open. The bottom should snap out without breaking any
tabs. Once open, pull out the PCB from inside, and make sure you don't
bend any of the capacitors or resistences, they're on very tall legs.
There are also 2 black boxes (didn't bother to find out what they are),
and those are the ones most likely to need resoldering. The resistences
and capacitors are too light to rattle off.

Once done, put everything back the way it was, and enjoy. I know I am.

Cosmin

Alain wrote:

> But do you know precisly where it is located ? What does it look like ?
>
> Tks.
>
> alain.
>
>

 

Yes. It's inside the cabin, on the left side. If you'll get under the
steering wheel column, you'll see a space with a lot of wires going into
several boxes. The DRL module is high up close to the wall. It's a
pretty big (about 10x10x5cm or 4x4x2in, mabe a bit smaller) box, gray,
with a blue 14 pin connector (I didn't count them, but that's what it
said in a previous post). You'll only see the bottom of it, with the
connector pointing downwards. It's clipped onto a metal tab, push it
upwards ONLY to release it. It required NO force on my car, so don't
pull on it too hard.

To disassemble it is fairly easy, just take a flat head screwdriver and
gently pry it open. The bottom should snap out without breaking any
tabs. Once open, pull out the PCB from inside, and make sure you don't
bend any of the capacitors or resistences, they're on very tall legs.
There are also 2 black boxes (didn't bother to find out what they are),
and those are the ones most likely to need resoldering. The resistences
and capacitors are too light to rattle off.

Once done, put everything back the way it was, and enjoy. I know I am.

Cosmin

Alain wrote:

> But do you know precisly where it is located ? What does it look like ?
>
> Tks.
>
> alain.
>
>

 

Yes. It's inside the cabin, on the left side. If you'll get under the
steering wheel column, you'll see a space with a lot of wires going into
several boxes. The DRL module is high up close to the wall. It's a
pretty big (about 10x10x5cm or 4x4x2in, mabe a bit smaller) box, gray,
with a blue 14 pin connector (I didn't count them, but that's what it
said in a previous post). You'll only see the bottom of it, with the
connector pointing downwards. It's clipped onto a metal tab, push it
upwards ONLY to release it. It required NO force on my car, so don't
pull on it too hard.

To disassemble it is fairly easy, just take a flat head screwdriver and
gently pry it open. The bottom should snap out without breaking any
tabs. Once open, pull out the PCB from inside, and make sure you don't
bend any of the capacitors or resistences, they're on very tall legs.
There are also 2 black boxes (didn't bother to find out what they are),
and those are the ones most likely to need resoldering. The resistences
and capacitors are too light to rattle off.

Once done, put everything back the way it was, and enjoy. I know I am.

Cosmin

Alain wrote:

> But do you know precisly where it is located ? What does it look like ?
>
> Tks.
>
> alain.
>
>

 

Yes. It's inside the cabin, on the left side. If you'll get under the
steering wheel column, you'll see a space with a lot of wires going into
several boxes. The DRL module is high up close to the wall. It's a
pretty big (about 10x10x5cm or 4x4x2in, mabe a bit smaller) box, gray,
with a blue 14 pin connector (I didn't count them, but that's what it
said in a previous post). You'll only see the bottom of it, with the
connector pointing downwards. It's clipped onto a metal tab, push it
upwards ONLY to release it. It required NO force on my car, so don't
pull on it too hard.

To disassemble it is fairly easy, just take a flat head screwdriver and
gently pry it open. The bottom should snap out without breaking any
tabs. Once open, pull out the PCB from inside, and make sure you don't
bend any of the capacitors or resistences, they're on very tall legs.
There are also 2 black boxes (didn't bother to find out what they are),
and those are the ones most likely to need resoldering. The resistences
and capacitors are too light to rattle off.

Once done, put everything back the way it was, and enjoy. I know I am.

Cosmin

Alain wrote:

> But do you know precisly where it is located ? What does it look like ?
>
> Tks.
>
> alain.
>
>

 

Have the same problem with my 94 Accord. Actually, my DRL system is dead
permanently, since I bought the car (15 months ago).
I'll try the same thing... thanks.

Robert


"Cosmin N." <no@email.com> wrote in message
news:c34pb.101105$7B1.66592@news04.bloor.is.net.ca ble.rogers.com...
> Yes. It's inside the cabin, on the left side. If you'll get under the
> steering wheel column, you'll see a space with a lot of wires going into
> several boxes. The DRL module is high up close to the wall. It's a
> pretty big (about 10x10x5cm or 4x4x2in, mabe a bit smaller) box, gray,
> with a blue 14 pin connector (I didn't count them, but that's what it
> said in a previous post). You'll only see the bottom of it, with the
> connector pointing downwards. It's clipped onto a metal tab, push it
> upwards ONLY to release it. It required NO force on my car, so don't
> pull on it too hard.
>
> To disassemble it is fairly easy, just take a flat head screwdriver and
> gently pry it open. The bottom should snap out without breaking any
> tabs. Once open, pull out the PCB from inside, and make sure you don't
> bend any of the capacitors or resistences, they're on very tall legs.
> There are also 2 black boxes (didn't bother to find out what they are),
> and those are the ones most likely to need resoldering. The resistences
> and capacitors are too light to rattle off.
>
> Once done, put everything back the way it was, and enjoy. I know I am.
>
> Cosmin
>
> Alain wrote:
>
> > But do you know precisly where it is located ? What does it look like ?
> >
> > Tks.
> >
> > alain.
> >
> >
>

 

Have the same problem with my 94 Accord. Actually, my DRL system is dead
permanently, since I bought the car (15 months ago).
I'll try the same thing... thanks.

Robert


"Cosmin N." <no@email.com> wrote in message
news:c34pb.101105$7B1.66592@news04.bloor.is.net.ca ble.rogers.com...
> Yes. It's inside the cabin, on the left side. If you'll get under the
> steering wheel column, you'll see a space with a lot of wires going into
> several boxes. The DRL module is high up close to the wall. It's a
> pretty big (about 10x10x5cm or 4x4x2in, mabe a bit smaller) box, gray,
> with a blue 14 pin connector (I didn't count them, but that's what it
> said in a previous post). You'll only see the bottom of it, with the
> connector pointing downwards. It's clipped onto a metal tab, push it
> upwards ONLY to release it. It required NO force on my car, so don't
> pull on it too hard.
>
> To disassemble it is fairly easy, just take a flat head screwdriver and
> gently pry it open. The bottom should snap out without breaking any
> tabs. Once open, pull out the PCB from inside, and make sure you don't
> bend any of the capacitors or resistences, they're on very tall legs.
> There are also 2 black boxes (didn't bother to find out what they are),
> and those are the ones most likely to need resoldering. The resistences
> and capacitors are too light to rattle off.
>
> Once done, put everything back the way it was, and enjoy. I know I am.
>
> Cosmin
>
> Alain wrote:
>
> > But do you know precisly where it is located ? What does it look like ?
> >
> > Tks.
> >
> > alain.
> >
> >
>

 

Have the same problem with my 94 Accord. Actually, my DRL system is dead
permanently, since I bought the car (15 months ago).
I'll try the same thing... thanks.

Robert


"Cosmin N." <no@email.com> wrote in message
news:c34pb.101105$7B1.66592@news04.bloor.is.net.ca ble.rogers.com...
> Yes. It's inside the cabin, on the left side. If you'll get under the
> steering wheel column, you'll see a space with a lot of wires going into
> several boxes. The DRL module is high up close to the wall. It's a
> pretty big (about 10x10x5cm or 4x4x2in, mabe a bit smaller) box, gray,
> with a blue 14 pin connector (I didn't count them, but that's what it
> said in a previous post). You'll only see the bottom of it, with the
> connector pointing downwards. It's clipped onto a metal tab, push it
> upwards ONLY to release it. It required NO force on my car, so don't
> pull on it too hard.
>
> To disassemble it is fairly easy, just take a flat head screwdriver and
> gently pry it open. The bottom should snap out without breaking any
> tabs. Once open, pull out the PCB from inside, and make sure you don't
> bend any of the capacitors or resistences, they're on very tall legs.
> There are also 2 black boxes (didn't bother to find out what they are),
> and those are the ones most likely to need resoldering. The resistences
> and capacitors are too light to rattle off.
>
> Once done, put everything back the way it was, and enjoy. I know I am.
>
> Cosmin
>
> Alain wrote:
>
> > But do you know precisly where it is located ? What does it look like ?
> >
> > Tks.
> >
> > alain.
> >
> >
>

 

Have the same problem with my 94 Accord. Actually, my DRL system is dead
permanently, since I bought the car (15 months ago).
I'll try the same thing... thanks.

Robert


"Cosmin N." <no@email.com> wrote in message
news:c34pb.101105$7B1.66592@news04.bloor.is.net.ca ble.rogers.com...
> Yes. It's inside the cabin, on the left side. If you'll get under the
> steering wheel column, you'll see a space with a lot of wires going into
> several boxes. The DRL module is high up close to the wall. It's a
> pretty big (about 10x10x5cm or 4x4x2in, mabe a bit smaller) box, gray,
> with a blue 14 pin connector (I didn't count them, but that's what it
> said in a previous post). You'll only see the bottom of it, with the
> connector pointing downwards. It's clipped onto a metal tab, push it
> upwards ONLY to release it. It required NO force on my car, so don't
> pull on it too hard.
>
> To disassemble it is fairly easy, just take a flat head screwdriver and
> gently pry it open. The bottom should snap out without breaking any
> tabs. Once open, pull out the PCB from inside, and make sure you don't
> bend any of the capacitors or resistences, they're on very tall legs.
> There are also 2 black boxes (didn't bother to find out what they are),
> and those are the ones most likely to need resoldering. The resistences
> and capacitors are too light to rattle off.
>
> Once done, put everything back the way it was, and enjoy. I know I am.
>
> Cosmin
>
> Alain wrote:
>
> > But do you know precisly where it is located ? What does it look like ?
> >
> > Tks.
> >
> > alain.
> >
> >
>