'92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
#46
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
jim beam wrote:
> david.borhani@alum.mit.edu wrote:
>>>>> disconnect the i.a.c.v. when warm and see what happens to engine
>>>>> revs. if the engine dies, you need to set the idle correctly.
>> >> Indeed, engine dies immediately. Should it idle at all w/o IACV
>> >> connected (if so, what extra thing does the IACV do?)?
>> > when fully warm, it should idle a bit below normal, but not die.
>> but
>>> before you adjust anything there, make sure it's not timing,
>>> ignition, etc.
>> OK, thanks, will twiddle the idle **** and try again, after I'm sure T-
>> belt is OK.
>>
>> Got valve & top T-belt covers off. Can see UP marked on camshaft
>> pully, and a line mark that looks like, if UP were up, would align w/
>> a little pointy thing on lower (plastic) cover. Mark & point should
>> line up, then cams will all be at TDC if T-belt is OK, otherwise some
>> cams will be off? Do I need to get the bottom cover off, to see the
>> lower two T-belt pulleys? (I think doing so it beyond my skill: too
>> many other pulleys, engine mount, etc there.) I guess what's confusing
>> me is that the T-belt camshaft pulley is physically part of the
>> camshaft, so how can it be anything but lined up (UP=up, mark=pointer,
>> +/-TDC on cams)? I'm clearly missing something (those lower two
>> pulleys??)
>>
>
> there's two sets of marks on the crank pulley - one [or 3 close
> together] for 18 degrees, the ignition timing mark, and one for tdc.
> it's the latter you need at the pointer when doing cam timing.
>
> for the cam pulley, there's two sets of marks. you need to check which
> is which for the ex, but one set should be parallel with the head top
> and "up" showing. the other gets pointed at a different mark on the
> head. it'll be one or the other.
>
> again, you really need the book on this.
>
> getting back to the idle, you should /not/ adjust it until you have
> everything else set right.
and you should check belt tension since you have the cover off!
> david.borhani@alum.mit.edu wrote:
>>>>> disconnect the i.a.c.v. when warm and see what happens to engine
>>>>> revs. if the engine dies, you need to set the idle correctly.
>> >> Indeed, engine dies immediately. Should it idle at all w/o IACV
>> >> connected (if so, what extra thing does the IACV do?)?
>> > when fully warm, it should idle a bit below normal, but not die.
>> but
>>> before you adjust anything there, make sure it's not timing,
>>> ignition, etc.
>> OK, thanks, will twiddle the idle **** and try again, after I'm sure T-
>> belt is OK.
>>
>> Got valve & top T-belt covers off. Can see UP marked on camshaft
>> pully, and a line mark that looks like, if UP were up, would align w/
>> a little pointy thing on lower (plastic) cover. Mark & point should
>> line up, then cams will all be at TDC if T-belt is OK, otherwise some
>> cams will be off? Do I need to get the bottom cover off, to see the
>> lower two T-belt pulleys? (I think doing so it beyond my skill: too
>> many other pulleys, engine mount, etc there.) I guess what's confusing
>> me is that the T-belt camshaft pulley is physically part of the
>> camshaft, so how can it be anything but lined up (UP=up, mark=pointer,
>> +/-TDC on cams)? I'm clearly missing something (those lower two
>> pulleys??)
>>
>
> there's two sets of marks on the crank pulley - one [or 3 close
> together] for 18 degrees, the ignition timing mark, and one for tdc.
> it's the latter you need at the pointer when doing cam timing.
>
> for the cam pulley, there's two sets of marks. you need to check which
> is which for the ex, but one set should be parallel with the head top
> and "up" showing. the other gets pointed at a different mark on the
> head. it'll be one or the other.
>
> again, you really need the book on this.
>
> getting back to the idle, you should /not/ adjust it until you have
> everything else set right.
and you should check belt tension since you have the cover off!
#47
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
Cam pulley is the one at top, right?, and crank pulley is down & back,
where I can't really get at it w/o taking apart the engine mount, etc?
(What's the third pulley for?) Tension seemed tight (hard to push belt
w/ my finger in ~3 mm).
where I can't really get at it w/o taking apart the engine mount, etc?
(What's the third pulley for?) Tension seemed tight (hard to push belt
w/ my finger in ~3 mm).
#48
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
Cam pulley is the one at top, right?, and crank pulley is down & back,
where I can't really get at it w/o taking apart the engine mount, etc?
(What's the third pulley for?) Tension seemed tight (hard to push belt
w/ my finger in ~3 mm).
where I can't really get at it w/o taking apart the engine mount, etc?
(What's the third pulley for?) Tension seemed tight (hard to push belt
w/ my finger in ~3 mm).
#49
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
Cam pulley is the one at top, right?, and crank pulley is down & back,
where I can't really get at it w/o taking apart the engine mount, etc?
(What's the third pulley for?) Tension seemed tight (hard to push belt
w/ my finger in ~3 mm).
where I can't really get at it w/o taking apart the engine mount, etc?
(What's the third pulley for?) Tension seemed tight (hard to push belt
w/ my finger in ~3 mm).
#50
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
david.borhani@alum.mit.edu wrote:
> Cam pulley is the one at top, right?, and crank pulley is down & back,
> where I can't really get at it w/o taking apart the engine mount, etc?
> (What's the third pulley for?) Tension seemed tight (hard to push belt
> w/ my finger in ~3 mm).
>
dude, you /really/ need to buy the book!!!
crank is at the bottom. easily accessed via the wheel well. leave
mount alone unless removing belt. should be able to show more than 3mm
of belt with the cover removed.
> Cam pulley is the one at top, right?, and crank pulley is down & back,
> where I can't really get at it w/o taking apart the engine mount, etc?
> (What's the third pulley for?) Tension seemed tight (hard to push belt
> w/ my finger in ~3 mm).
>
dude, you /really/ need to buy the book!!!
crank is at the bottom. easily accessed via the wheel well. leave
mount alone unless removing belt. should be able to show more than 3mm
of belt with the cover removed.
#51
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
david.borhani@alum.mit.edu wrote:
> Cam pulley is the one at top, right?, and crank pulley is down & back,
> where I can't really get at it w/o taking apart the engine mount, etc?
> (What's the third pulley for?) Tension seemed tight (hard to push belt
> w/ my finger in ~3 mm).
>
dude, you /really/ need to buy the book!!!
crank is at the bottom. easily accessed via the wheel well. leave
mount alone unless removing belt. should be able to show more than 3mm
of belt with the cover removed.
> Cam pulley is the one at top, right?, and crank pulley is down & back,
> where I can't really get at it w/o taking apart the engine mount, etc?
> (What's the third pulley for?) Tension seemed tight (hard to push belt
> w/ my finger in ~3 mm).
>
dude, you /really/ need to buy the book!!!
crank is at the bottom. easily accessed via the wheel well. leave
mount alone unless removing belt. should be able to show more than 3mm
of belt with the cover removed.
#52
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
david.borhani@alum.mit.edu wrote:
> Cam pulley is the one at top, right?, and crank pulley is down & back,
> where I can't really get at it w/o taking apart the engine mount, etc?
> (What's the third pulley for?) Tension seemed tight (hard to push belt
> w/ my finger in ~3 mm).
>
dude, you /really/ need to buy the book!!!
crank is at the bottom. easily accessed via the wheel well. leave
mount alone unless removing belt. should be able to show more than 3mm
of belt with the cover removed.
> Cam pulley is the one at top, right?, and crank pulley is down & back,
> where I can't really get at it w/o taking apart the engine mount, etc?
> (What's the third pulley for?) Tension seemed tight (hard to push belt
> w/ my finger in ~3 mm).
>
dude, you /really/ need to buy the book!!!
crank is at the bottom. easily accessed via the wheel well. leave
mount alone unless removing belt. should be able to show more than 3mm
of belt with the cover removed.
#56
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
Checked T-belt position on cam & crank pulleys. W/ cam pulley at its
mark, crank is ~10 degrees past TDC (single mark for TDC, and 3 timing
marks at 14, 16, 18 deg. BTDC). With crank at TDC, cam is ~1 tooth
before its mark. Cam pulley has 38 teeth, i.e. ~9.5 deg./tooth. Thus,
T-belt is off by one tooth.
You would think when you pay professionals a good chunk of change to
do the job right, they would! Have they no pride??
Now one of my 3 belts on the crank pulley is squeaking a bit. (I had
to work the belts off to see the marks on the pulley.) I assume it
can wait until the car goes back for the T-belt (& distributor, and
coolant-reflush, and idle speed adj.), I hope tomorrow?
mark, crank is ~10 degrees past TDC (single mark for TDC, and 3 timing
marks at 14, 16, 18 deg. BTDC). With crank at TDC, cam is ~1 tooth
before its mark. Cam pulley has 38 teeth, i.e. ~9.5 deg./tooth. Thus,
T-belt is off by one tooth.
You would think when you pay professionals a good chunk of change to
do the job right, they would! Have they no pride??
Now one of my 3 belts on the crank pulley is squeaking a bit. (I had
to work the belts off to see the marks on the pulley.) I assume it
can wait until the car goes back for the T-belt (& distributor, and
coolant-reflush, and idle speed adj.), I hope tomorrow?
#57
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
Checked T-belt position on cam & crank pulleys. W/ cam pulley at its
mark, crank is ~10 degrees past TDC (single mark for TDC, and 3 timing
marks at 14, 16, 18 deg. BTDC). With crank at TDC, cam is ~1 tooth
before its mark. Cam pulley has 38 teeth, i.e. ~9.5 deg./tooth. Thus,
T-belt is off by one tooth.
You would think when you pay professionals a good chunk of change to
do the job right, they would! Have they no pride??
Now one of my 3 belts on the crank pulley is squeaking a bit. (I had
to work the belts off to see the marks on the pulley.) I assume it
can wait until the car goes back for the T-belt (& distributor, and
coolant-reflush, and idle speed adj.), I hope tomorrow?
mark, crank is ~10 degrees past TDC (single mark for TDC, and 3 timing
marks at 14, 16, 18 deg. BTDC). With crank at TDC, cam is ~1 tooth
before its mark. Cam pulley has 38 teeth, i.e. ~9.5 deg./tooth. Thus,
T-belt is off by one tooth.
You would think when you pay professionals a good chunk of change to
do the job right, they would! Have they no pride??
Now one of my 3 belts on the crank pulley is squeaking a bit. (I had
to work the belts off to see the marks on the pulley.) I assume it
can wait until the car goes back for the T-belt (& distributor, and
coolant-reflush, and idle speed adj.), I hope tomorrow?
#58
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
Checked T-belt position on cam & crank pulleys. W/ cam pulley at its
mark, crank is ~10 degrees past TDC (single mark for TDC, and 3 timing
marks at 14, 16, 18 deg. BTDC). With crank at TDC, cam is ~1 tooth
before its mark. Cam pulley has 38 teeth, i.e. ~9.5 deg./tooth. Thus,
T-belt is off by one tooth.
You would think when you pay professionals a good chunk of change to
do the job right, they would! Have they no pride??
Now one of my 3 belts on the crank pulley is squeaking a bit. (I had
to work the belts off to see the marks on the pulley.) I assume it
can wait until the car goes back for the T-belt (& distributor, and
coolant-reflush, and idle speed adj.), I hope tomorrow?
mark, crank is ~10 degrees past TDC (single mark for TDC, and 3 timing
marks at 14, 16, 18 deg. BTDC). With crank at TDC, cam is ~1 tooth
before its mark. Cam pulley has 38 teeth, i.e. ~9.5 deg./tooth. Thus,
T-belt is off by one tooth.
You would think when you pay professionals a good chunk of change to
do the job right, they would! Have they no pride??
Now one of my 3 belts on the crank pulley is squeaking a bit. (I had
to work the belts off to see the marks on the pulley.) I assume it
can wait until the car goes back for the T-belt (& distributor, and
coolant-reflush, and idle speed adj.), I hope tomorrow?
#59
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
<david.borhani@alum.mit.edu> wrote in message
news:1182719601.461804.130470@u2g2000hsc.googlegro ups.com...
> Checked T-belt position on cam & crank pulleys. W/ cam pulley at its
> mark, crank is ~10 degrees past TDC (single mark for TDC, and 3 timing
> marks at 14, 16, 18 deg. BTDC). With crank at TDC, cam is ~1 tooth
> before its mark. Cam pulley has 38 teeth, i.e. ~9.5 deg./tooth. Thus,
> T-belt is off by one tooth.
>
> You would think when you pay professionals a good chunk of change to
> do the job right, they would! Have they no pride??
>
> Now one of my 3 belts on the crank pulley is squeaking a bit. (I had
> to work the belts off to see the marks on the pulley.) I assume it
> can wait until the car goes back for the T-belt (& distributor, and
> coolant-reflush, and idle speed adj.), I hope tomorrow?
>
>
In their defense, it is a bit of a struggle to get the belt to go on right;
the cam doesn't like to sit at TDC. (That's why so many of us were
suspecting it!) But you're right - professionals should not only get it
right, they should triple-check it is right before buttoning it up.
Mike
news:1182719601.461804.130470@u2g2000hsc.googlegro ups.com...
> Checked T-belt position on cam & crank pulleys. W/ cam pulley at its
> mark, crank is ~10 degrees past TDC (single mark for TDC, and 3 timing
> marks at 14, 16, 18 deg. BTDC). With crank at TDC, cam is ~1 tooth
> before its mark. Cam pulley has 38 teeth, i.e. ~9.5 deg./tooth. Thus,
> T-belt is off by one tooth.
>
> You would think when you pay professionals a good chunk of change to
> do the job right, they would! Have they no pride??
>
> Now one of my 3 belts on the crank pulley is squeaking a bit. (I had
> to work the belts off to see the marks on the pulley.) I assume it
> can wait until the car goes back for the T-belt (& distributor, and
> coolant-reflush, and idle speed adj.), I hope tomorrow?
>
>
In their defense, it is a bit of a struggle to get the belt to go on right;
the cam doesn't like to sit at TDC. (That's why so many of us were
suspecting it!) But you're right - professionals should not only get it
right, they should triple-check it is right before buttoning it up.
Mike
#60
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
<david.borhani@alum.mit.edu> wrote in message
news:1182719601.461804.130470@u2g2000hsc.googlegro ups.com...
> Checked T-belt position on cam & crank pulleys. W/ cam pulley at its
> mark, crank is ~10 degrees past TDC (single mark for TDC, and 3 timing
> marks at 14, 16, 18 deg. BTDC). With crank at TDC, cam is ~1 tooth
> before its mark. Cam pulley has 38 teeth, i.e. ~9.5 deg./tooth. Thus,
> T-belt is off by one tooth.
>
> You would think when you pay professionals a good chunk of change to
> do the job right, they would! Have they no pride??
>
> Now one of my 3 belts on the crank pulley is squeaking a bit. (I had
> to work the belts off to see the marks on the pulley.) I assume it
> can wait until the car goes back for the T-belt (& distributor, and
> coolant-reflush, and idle speed adj.), I hope tomorrow?
>
>
In their defense, it is a bit of a struggle to get the belt to go on right;
the cam doesn't like to sit at TDC. (That's why so many of us were
suspecting it!) But you're right - professionals should not only get it
right, they should triple-check it is right before buttoning it up.
Mike
news:1182719601.461804.130470@u2g2000hsc.googlegro ups.com...
> Checked T-belt position on cam & crank pulleys. W/ cam pulley at its
> mark, crank is ~10 degrees past TDC (single mark for TDC, and 3 timing
> marks at 14, 16, 18 deg. BTDC). With crank at TDC, cam is ~1 tooth
> before its mark. Cam pulley has 38 teeth, i.e. ~9.5 deg./tooth. Thus,
> T-belt is off by one tooth.
>
> You would think when you pay professionals a good chunk of change to
> do the job right, they would! Have they no pride??
>
> Now one of my 3 belts on the crank pulley is squeaking a bit. (I had
> to work the belts off to see the marks on the pulley.) I assume it
> can wait until the car goes back for the T-belt (& distributor, and
> coolant-reflush, and idle speed adj.), I hope tomorrow?
>
>
In their defense, it is a bit of a struggle to get the belt to go on right;
the cam doesn't like to sit at TDC. (That's why so many of us were
suspecting it!) But you're right - professionals should not only get it
right, they should triple-check it is right before buttoning it up.
Mike