Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
 

> motsco/Curly, Jim Beam: Check coolant, reservoir
Radiator is full when engine is cold, reservoir ~1/2+ full. Did of
course get coolant flush because of water pump repl. w/ T-belt
service. Will a careful re-flush eliminate possible bubbles?

> motsco/Curly: Check adjustment slot on your upper distributor bolt
See about 3 mm of slot showing past the large washer. Gap is toward
rear of engine, i.e. looks like bolt is toward front end of of range,
but I can't quite tell how far to end of range (no personal
experience). Do you think this is near end of range? Can also see old
marking from washer visible on dist. case at rear of range. So, set
wrong now, and possibly before as well? Should it be ~in the middle?
If so, should I take it back to dealer and ask that they move T-belt
by one tooth in correct direction, then re-do timing, idle adj.?
Anything else?

> Jim Beam: Check IACV when hot. Check codes.
Haven't done the IACV check yet (will try tomorrow). Presumably dealer
saw no other codes other than orig. IACV problem? I don't have code-
checking equip.

Thanks guys

Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
 

david.borhani@alum.mit.edu wrote:
>> motsco/Curly, Jim Beam: Check coolant, reservoir
> Radiator is full when engine is cold, reservoir ~1/2+ full. Did of
> course get coolant flush because of water pump repl. w/ T-belt
> service. Will a careful re-flush eliminate possible bubbles?

no. the fact that you've recently done the timing belt leads me to
suspect the belt's slipped a tooth. very common for the belt not to be
tensioned right. google this group for procedure or check the book.

>
>> motsco/Curly: Check adjustment slot on your upper distributor bolt
> See about 3 mm of slot showing past the large washer. Gap is toward
> rear of engine, i.e. looks like bolt is toward front end of of range,
> but I can't quite tell how far to end of range (no personal
> experience).

bolt should be about the middle of the slot like curly says. see above.

> Do you think this is near end of range? Can also see old
> marking from washer visible on dist. case at rear of range. So, set
> wrong now, and possibly before as well? Should it be ~in the middle?
> If so, should I take it back to dealer and ask that they move T-belt
> by one tooth in correct direction, then re-do timing, idle adj.?

yes.

> Anything else?
>
>> Jim Beam: Check IACV when hot. Check codes.
> Haven't done the IACV check yet (will try tomorrow). Presumably dealer
> saw no other codes other than orig. IACV problem? I don't have code-
> checking equip.
>
> Thanks guys
>
>

seriously consider finding another dealer to do this work. these guys
don't seem like they know their business.

Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
 

david.borhani@alum.mit.edu wrote:
>> motsco/Curly, Jim Beam: Check coolant, reservoir
> Radiator is full when engine is cold, reservoir ~1/2+ full. Did of
> course get coolant flush because of water pump repl. w/ T-belt
> service. Will a careful re-flush eliminate possible bubbles?

no. the fact that you've recently done the timing belt leads me to
suspect the belt's slipped a tooth. very common for the belt not to be
tensioned right. google this group for procedure or check the book.

>
>> motsco/Curly: Check adjustment slot on your upper distributor bolt
> See about 3 mm of slot showing past the large washer. Gap is toward
> rear of engine, i.e. looks like bolt is toward front end of of range,
> but I can't quite tell how far to end of range (no personal
> experience).

bolt should be about the middle of the slot like curly says. see above.

> Do you think this is near end of range? Can also see old
> marking from washer visible on dist. case at rear of range. So, set
> wrong now, and possibly before as well? Should it be ~in the middle?
> If so, should I take it back to dealer and ask that they move T-belt
> by one tooth in correct direction, then re-do timing, idle adj.?

yes.

> Anything else?
>
>> Jim Beam: Check IACV when hot. Check codes.
> Haven't done the IACV check yet (will try tomorrow). Presumably dealer
> saw no other codes other than orig. IACV problem? I don't have code-
> checking equip.
>
> Thanks guys
>
>

seriously consider finding another dealer to do this work. these guys
don't seem like they know their business.

Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
 

david.borhani@alum.mit.edu wrote:
>> motsco/Curly, Jim Beam: Check coolant, reservoir
> Radiator is full when engine is cold, reservoir ~1/2+ full. Did of
> course get coolant flush because of water pump repl. w/ T-belt
> service. Will a careful re-flush eliminate possible bubbles?

no. the fact that you've recently done the timing belt leads me to
suspect the belt's slipped a tooth. very common for the belt not to be
tensioned right. google this group for procedure or check the book.

>
>> motsco/Curly: Check adjustment slot on your upper distributor bolt
> See about 3 mm of slot showing past the large washer. Gap is toward
> rear of engine, i.e. looks like bolt is toward front end of of range,
> but I can't quite tell how far to end of range (no personal
> experience).

bolt should be about the middle of the slot like curly says. see above.

> Do you think this is near end of range? Can also see old
> marking from washer visible on dist. case at rear of range. So, set
> wrong now, and possibly before as well? Should it be ~in the middle?
> If so, should I take it back to dealer and ask that they move T-belt
> by one tooth in correct direction, then re-do timing, idle adj.?

yes.

> Anything else?
>
>> Jim Beam: Check IACV when hot. Check codes.
> Haven't done the IACV check yet (will try tomorrow). Presumably dealer
> saw no other codes other than orig. IACV problem? I don't have code-
> checking equip.
>
> Thanks guys
>
>

seriously consider finding another dealer to do this work. these guys
don't seem like they know their business.

Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
 

Thanks very much, will press dealer to fix their mistakes, and then
find a new dealer!

Last thoughts/questions: Is it clear that the mis-set T-belt, and thus
the mis-adj. distributor/timing, is the cause of the idle drop-out? or
is it a contributing factor, along with possible air bubbles in
coolant lines near IACV, or some other cause? I feel a bit like we set
out to drain the swamp but are currently wrestling w/ the alligators!

Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
 

Thanks very much, will press dealer to fix their mistakes, and then
find a new dealer!

Last thoughts/questions: Is it clear that the mis-set T-belt, and thus
the mis-adj. distributor/timing, is the cause of the idle drop-out? or
is it a contributing factor, along with possible air bubbles in
coolant lines near IACV, or some other cause? I feel a bit like we set
out to drain the swamp but are currently wrestling w/ the alligators!

Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
 

Thanks very much, will press dealer to fix their mistakes, and then
find a new dealer!

Last thoughts/questions: Is it clear that the mis-set T-belt, and thus
the mis-adj. distributor/timing, is the cause of the idle drop-out? or
is it a contributing factor, along with possible air bubbles in
coolant lines near IACV, or some other cause? I feel a bit like we set
out to drain the swamp but are currently wrestling w/ the alligators!

Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
 

david.borhani@alum.mit.edu wrote:
> Thanks very much, will press dealer to fix their mistakes, and then
> find a new dealer!
>
> Last thoughts/questions: Is it clear that the mis-set T-belt, and thus
> the mis-adj. distributor/timing, is the cause of the idle drop-out? or
> is it a contributing factor, along with possible air bubbles in
> coolant lines near IACV, or some other cause? I feel a bit like we set
> out to drain the swamp but are currently wrestling w/ the alligators!

------------------------------------

It would be nice if you knew somebody handy enough to slip off the valve
cover and confirm whether the TB is out one tooth. I can't say for sure
how hard it is to check on your engine.
The TB can be 'out' just because of carelesness when installing it, not
necessarily because it's loose. Changing the angle of the distributor is
the 'patch', and should have confirmed to the tech that he did the belt
wrong. :-( As far as I know, the ignition timing should never need to be
changed more than a degree or two over the life of the car, unless
there's some 'tuning' going on.

If you have access to a Haynes or Chilton's, the procedure for checking
the TB alignment will be in there.

Search at www.tegger.com to learn whether it's necessary to bleed any
trapped air from your '92. As was mentioned, later models don't need it
and their (reservoir) coolant level stays rock-steady summer and winter,
hot or cold.

'Curly'

Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
 

david.borhani@alum.mit.edu wrote:
> Thanks very much, will press dealer to fix their mistakes, and then
> find a new dealer!
>
> Last thoughts/questions: Is it clear that the mis-set T-belt, and thus
> the mis-adj. distributor/timing, is the cause of the idle drop-out? or
> is it a contributing factor, along with possible air bubbles in
> coolant lines near IACV, or some other cause? I feel a bit like we set
> out to drain the swamp but are currently wrestling w/ the alligators!

------------------------------------

It would be nice if you knew somebody handy enough to slip off the valve
cover and confirm whether the TB is out one tooth. I can't say for sure
how hard it is to check on your engine.
The TB can be 'out' just because of carelesness when installing it, not
necessarily because it's loose. Changing the angle of the distributor is
the 'patch', and should have confirmed to the tech that he did the belt
wrong. :-( As far as I know, the ignition timing should never need to be
changed more than a degree or two over the life of the car, unless
there's some 'tuning' going on.

If you have access to a Haynes or Chilton's, the procedure for checking
the TB alignment will be in there.

Search at www.tegger.com to learn whether it's necessary to bleed any
trapped air from your '92. As was mentioned, later models don't need it
and their (reservoir) coolant level stays rock-steady summer and winter,
hot or cold.

'Curly'

Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
 

david.borhani@alum.mit.edu wrote:
> Thanks very much, will press dealer to fix their mistakes, and then
> find a new dealer!
>
> Last thoughts/questions: Is it clear that the mis-set T-belt, and thus
> the mis-adj. distributor/timing, is the cause of the idle drop-out? or
> is it a contributing factor, along with possible air bubbles in
> coolant lines near IACV, or some other cause? I feel a bit like we set
> out to drain the swamp but are currently wrestling w/ the alligators!

------------------------------------

It would be nice if you knew somebody handy enough to slip off the valve
cover and confirm whether the TB is out one tooth. I can't say for sure
how hard it is to check on your engine.
The TB can be 'out' just because of carelesness when installing it, not
necessarily because it's loose. Changing the angle of the distributor is
the 'patch', and should have confirmed to the tech that he did the belt
wrong. :-( As far as I know, the ignition timing should never need to be
changed more than a degree or two over the life of the car, unless
there's some 'tuning' going on.

If you have access to a Haynes or Chilton's, the procedure for checking
the TB alignment will be in there.

Search at www.tegger.com to learn whether it's necessary to bleed any
trapped air from your '92. As was mentioned, later models don't need it
and their (reservoir) coolant level stays rock-steady summer and winter,
hot or cold.

'Curly'

Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
 

> It would be nice if you knew somebody handy enough to slip off the valve
> cover and confirm whether the TB is out one tooth.

I can take off the valve cover no problem. Looked at the link you
suggested and found this one -- http://timingbelt.soben.com/ -- that
gave pictures from an Acura T-belt replacement. BUT, it's not clear to
me just what one does/looks for to determine whether T-belt is off by
one tooth. Could you please supply a bit more detail? I assume you
take off the valve cover, turn engine (by hand?) until cylinder 1 (the
one next to T-belt?) is at TDC (judged how?), then look at where belt
lines up with some marking on case? Sounds like a quick job if you
know what you're doing/looking for?

Thanks!

Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
 

> It would be nice if you knew somebody handy enough to slip off the valve
> cover and confirm whether the TB is out one tooth.

I can take off the valve cover no problem. Looked at the link you
suggested and found this one -- http://timingbelt.soben.com/ -- that
gave pictures from an Acura T-belt replacement. BUT, it's not clear to
me just what one does/looks for to determine whether T-belt is off by
one tooth. Could you please supply a bit more detail? I assume you
take off the valve cover, turn engine (by hand?) until cylinder 1 (the
one next to T-belt?) is at TDC (judged how?), then look at where belt
lines up with some marking on case? Sounds like a quick job if you
know what you're doing/looking for?

Thanks!

Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
 

> It would be nice if you knew somebody handy enough to slip off the valve
> cover and confirm whether the TB is out one tooth.

I can take off the valve cover no problem. Looked at the link you
suggested and found this one -- http://timingbelt.soben.com/ -- that
gave pictures from an Acura T-belt replacement. BUT, it's not clear to
me just what one does/looks for to determine whether T-belt is off by
one tooth. Could you please supply a bit more detail? I assume you
take off the valve cover, turn engine (by hand?) until cylinder 1 (the
one next to T-belt?) is at TDC (judged how?), then look at where belt
lines up with some marking on case? Sounds like a quick job if you
know what you're doing/looking for?

Thanks!

Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
 

<david.borhani@alum.mit.edu> wrote in message
news:1182610384.368819.243430@n2g2000hse.googlegro ups.com...
>> It would be nice if you knew somebody handy enough to slip off the valve
>> cover and confirm whether the TB is out one tooth.
>
> I can take off the valve cover no problem. Looked at the link you
> suggested and found this one -- http://timingbelt.soben.com/ -- that
> gave pictures from an Acura T-belt replacement. BUT, it's not clear to
> me just what one does/looks for to determine whether T-belt is off by
> one tooth. Could you please supply a bit more detail? I assume you
> take off the valve cover, turn engine (by hand?) until cylinder 1 (the
> one next to T-belt?) is at TDC (judged how?), then look at where belt
> lines up with some marking on case? Sounds like a quick job if you
> know what you're doing/looking for?
>
> Thanks!
>
>
That's pretty much it. The crank is turned *counterclockwise* by the bolt
head (supposed to be retorqued after doing this but in practice it won't
budge even when we desperately want it to) or by a strap wrench on the crank
pulley until the TDC timing mark lines up. Note: most engines turn
clockwise, Honda engines turn counterclockwise. Never turn the engine
backward as the timing belt tension is on the wrong side and the belt might
skip. Anyway, the cam gears should then be in the TDC position or exactly
180 degrees away from TDC. There are stamped markings or holes of various
sorts for the various engines. Most of them are obvious enough to figure
out, but a few are not so obvious. Any shop manual for your model, even
Chilton's or Haynes, will have the details.

Mike

Re: '92 Civic DX Hatchback Idle dropout problem
 

<david.borhani@alum.mit.edu> wrote in message
news:1182610384.368819.243430@n2g2000hse.googlegro ups.com...
>> It would be nice if you knew somebody handy enough to slip off the valve
>> cover and confirm whether the TB is out one tooth.
>
> I can take off the valve cover no problem. Looked at the link you
> suggested and found this one -- http://timingbelt.soben.com/ -- that
> gave pictures from an Acura T-belt replacement. BUT, it's not clear to
> me just what one does/looks for to determine whether T-belt is off by
> one tooth. Could you please supply a bit more detail? I assume you
> take off the valve cover, turn engine (by hand?) until cylinder 1 (the
> one next to T-belt?) is at TDC (judged how?), then look at where belt
> lines up with some marking on case? Sounds like a quick job if you
> know what you're doing/looking for?
>
> Thanks!
>
>
That's pretty much it. The crank is turned *counterclockwise* by the bolt
head (supposed to be retorqued after doing this but in practice it won't
budge even when we desperately want it to) or by a strap wrench on the crank
pulley until the TDC timing mark lines up. Note: most engines turn
clockwise, Honda engines turn counterclockwise. Never turn the engine
backward as the timing belt tension is on the wrong side and the belt might
skip. Anyway, the cam gears should then be in the TDC position or exactly
180 degrees away from TDC. There are stamped markings or holes of various
sorts for the various engines. Most of them are obvious enough to figure
out, but a few are not so obvious. Any shop manual for your model, even
Chilton's or Haynes, will have the details.

Mike