92 Accord won't start but will run
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 92 Accord won't start but will run
Michael Pardee wrote:
> When you say it "run[s] fine" once started I assume you also mean it has
> normal power and idles when you come to a stop without any trouble.
Yes. I haven't noticed any particular loss of power since this problem
started however I did notice this problem came on gradually. For about
3 weeks before, starting the car in the morning took 1-2 seconds
longer. I had a habit of only engaging the starter for a certain amount
of time instead of until the engine started and that didn't work
anymore.
> If so,
> this suggests to me one of two fuel problems; the engine could be flooding
> because of leaky injectors or the fuel pressure in the rails could be
> bleeding off. Try this test: crank the engine for about a second, let off
> (ignition in the "run" position) for a second or two and then try to start.
> If that works reliably the problem is that the fuel pressure is bleeding
> off.
I read about this in another FAQ. I cycled the pump 8 times before
starting and no luck.
> It could be a leaky injector or a leaky check valve on the fuel pump.
> Apparently ECUs get confused when the engine doesn't start quickly and they
> start adjusting the injection over a wide range. I've had a car (Nissan)
> that simply wouldn't start no matter how long I cranked unless I bumped the
> starter first. That was only a problem when I had opened the fuel rail, but
> it had me going at first!
> If that doesn't work, hold the accelerator wide open while trying to start.
> If that gets the engine started (may take several seconds) the engine is
> flooding because of leaky injectors. Flooding will produce black smoke out
> the tailpipe when the engine starts but it may take an observer to see it.
This worked. It also caused unburned fuel/air to come out of the
intake. The next 4 times I started the car I floored it until it fired
then started normally and it ran fine. However the fifth time it
doesn't want to go. If the injectors are leaking I am concerned about
hydrolock although I suppose most of the fuel will flow back into the
intake manifold. Would a faulty fuel pressure regulator cause this?
>
> In either case, adding a bottle of fuel injector cleaner couldn't hurt, may
> help either condition.
>
> Mike
I'll give it a try. Thanks for all your help!
> When you say it "run[s] fine" once started I assume you also mean it has
> normal power and idles when you come to a stop without any trouble.
Yes. I haven't noticed any particular loss of power since this problem
started however I did notice this problem came on gradually. For about
3 weeks before, starting the car in the morning took 1-2 seconds
longer. I had a habit of only engaging the starter for a certain amount
of time instead of until the engine started and that didn't work
anymore.
> If so,
> this suggests to me one of two fuel problems; the engine could be flooding
> because of leaky injectors or the fuel pressure in the rails could be
> bleeding off. Try this test: crank the engine for about a second, let off
> (ignition in the "run" position) for a second or two and then try to start.
> If that works reliably the problem is that the fuel pressure is bleeding
> off.
I read about this in another FAQ. I cycled the pump 8 times before
starting and no luck.
> It could be a leaky injector or a leaky check valve on the fuel pump.
> Apparently ECUs get confused when the engine doesn't start quickly and they
> start adjusting the injection over a wide range. I've had a car (Nissan)
> that simply wouldn't start no matter how long I cranked unless I bumped the
> starter first. That was only a problem when I had opened the fuel rail, but
> it had me going at first!
> If that doesn't work, hold the accelerator wide open while trying to start.
> If that gets the engine started (may take several seconds) the engine is
> flooding because of leaky injectors. Flooding will produce black smoke out
> the tailpipe when the engine starts but it may take an observer to see it.
This worked. It also caused unburned fuel/air to come out of the
intake. The next 4 times I started the car I floored it until it fired
then started normally and it ran fine. However the fifth time it
doesn't want to go. If the injectors are leaking I am concerned about
hydrolock although I suppose most of the fuel will flow back into the
intake manifold. Would a faulty fuel pressure regulator cause this?
>
> In either case, adding a bottle of fuel injector cleaner couldn't hurt, may
> help either condition.
>
> Mike
I'll give it a try. Thanks for all your help!
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 92 Accord won't start but will run
Michael Pardee wrote:
> When you say it "run[s] fine" once started I assume you also mean it has
> normal power and idles when you come to a stop without any trouble.
Yes. I haven't noticed any particular loss of power since this problem
started however I did notice this problem came on gradually. For about
3 weeks before, starting the car in the morning took 1-2 seconds
longer. I had a habit of only engaging the starter for a certain amount
of time instead of until the engine started and that didn't work
anymore.
> If so,
> this suggests to me one of two fuel problems; the engine could be flooding
> because of leaky injectors or the fuel pressure in the rails could be
> bleeding off. Try this test: crank the engine for about a second, let off
> (ignition in the "run" position) for a second or two and then try to start.
> If that works reliably the problem is that the fuel pressure is bleeding
> off.
I read about this in another FAQ. I cycled the pump 8 times before
starting and no luck.
> It could be a leaky injector or a leaky check valve on the fuel pump.
> Apparently ECUs get confused when the engine doesn't start quickly and they
> start adjusting the injection over a wide range. I've had a car (Nissan)
> that simply wouldn't start no matter how long I cranked unless I bumped the
> starter first. That was only a problem when I had opened the fuel rail, but
> it had me going at first!
> If that doesn't work, hold the accelerator wide open while trying to start.
> If that gets the engine started (may take several seconds) the engine is
> flooding because of leaky injectors. Flooding will produce black smoke out
> the tailpipe when the engine starts but it may take an observer to see it.
This worked. It also caused unburned fuel/air to come out of the
intake. The next 4 times I started the car I floored it until it fired
then started normally and it ran fine. However the fifth time it
doesn't want to go. If the injectors are leaking I am concerned about
hydrolock although I suppose most of the fuel will flow back into the
intake manifold. Would a faulty fuel pressure regulator cause this?
>
> In either case, adding a bottle of fuel injector cleaner couldn't hurt, may
> help either condition.
>
> Mike
I'll give it a try. Thanks for all your help!
> When you say it "run[s] fine" once started I assume you also mean it has
> normal power and idles when you come to a stop without any trouble.
Yes. I haven't noticed any particular loss of power since this problem
started however I did notice this problem came on gradually. For about
3 weeks before, starting the car in the morning took 1-2 seconds
longer. I had a habit of only engaging the starter for a certain amount
of time instead of until the engine started and that didn't work
anymore.
> If so,
> this suggests to me one of two fuel problems; the engine could be flooding
> because of leaky injectors or the fuel pressure in the rails could be
> bleeding off. Try this test: crank the engine for about a second, let off
> (ignition in the "run" position) for a second or two and then try to start.
> If that works reliably the problem is that the fuel pressure is bleeding
> off.
I read about this in another FAQ. I cycled the pump 8 times before
starting and no luck.
> It could be a leaky injector or a leaky check valve on the fuel pump.
> Apparently ECUs get confused when the engine doesn't start quickly and they
> start adjusting the injection over a wide range. I've had a car (Nissan)
> that simply wouldn't start no matter how long I cranked unless I bumped the
> starter first. That was only a problem when I had opened the fuel rail, but
> it had me going at first!
> If that doesn't work, hold the accelerator wide open while trying to start.
> If that gets the engine started (may take several seconds) the engine is
> flooding because of leaky injectors. Flooding will produce black smoke out
> the tailpipe when the engine starts but it may take an observer to see it.
This worked. It also caused unburned fuel/air to come out of the
intake. The next 4 times I started the car I floored it until it fired
then started normally and it ran fine. However the fifth time it
doesn't want to go. If the injectors are leaking I am concerned about
hydrolock although I suppose most of the fuel will flow back into the
intake manifold. Would a faulty fuel pressure regulator cause this?
>
> In either case, adding a bottle of fuel injector cleaner couldn't hurt, may
> help either condition.
>
> Mike
I'll give it a try. Thanks for all your help!
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 92 Accord won't start but will run
Michael Pardee wrote:
> When you say it "run[s] fine" once started I assume you also mean it has
> normal power and idles when you come to a stop without any trouble.
Yes. I haven't noticed any particular loss of power since this problem
started however I did notice this problem came on gradually. For about
3 weeks before, starting the car in the morning took 1-2 seconds
longer. I had a habit of only engaging the starter for a certain amount
of time instead of until the engine started and that didn't work
anymore.
> If so,
> this suggests to me one of two fuel problems; the engine could be flooding
> because of leaky injectors or the fuel pressure in the rails could be
> bleeding off. Try this test: crank the engine for about a second, let off
> (ignition in the "run" position) for a second or two and then try to start.
> If that works reliably the problem is that the fuel pressure is bleeding
> off.
I read about this in another FAQ. I cycled the pump 8 times before
starting and no luck.
> It could be a leaky injector or a leaky check valve on the fuel pump.
> Apparently ECUs get confused when the engine doesn't start quickly and they
> start adjusting the injection over a wide range. I've had a car (Nissan)
> that simply wouldn't start no matter how long I cranked unless I bumped the
> starter first. That was only a problem when I had opened the fuel rail, but
> it had me going at first!
> If that doesn't work, hold the accelerator wide open while trying to start.
> If that gets the engine started (may take several seconds) the engine is
> flooding because of leaky injectors. Flooding will produce black smoke out
> the tailpipe when the engine starts but it may take an observer to see it.
This worked. It also caused unburned fuel/air to come out of the
intake. The next 4 times I started the car I floored it until it fired
then started normally and it ran fine. However the fifth time it
doesn't want to go. If the injectors are leaking I am concerned about
hydrolock although I suppose most of the fuel will flow back into the
intake manifold. Would a faulty fuel pressure regulator cause this?
>
> In either case, adding a bottle of fuel injector cleaner couldn't hurt, may
> help either condition.
>
> Mike
I'll give it a try. Thanks for all your help!
> When you say it "run[s] fine" once started I assume you also mean it has
> normal power and idles when you come to a stop without any trouble.
Yes. I haven't noticed any particular loss of power since this problem
started however I did notice this problem came on gradually. For about
3 weeks before, starting the car in the morning took 1-2 seconds
longer. I had a habit of only engaging the starter for a certain amount
of time instead of until the engine started and that didn't work
anymore.
> If so,
> this suggests to me one of two fuel problems; the engine could be flooding
> because of leaky injectors or the fuel pressure in the rails could be
> bleeding off. Try this test: crank the engine for about a second, let off
> (ignition in the "run" position) for a second or two and then try to start.
> If that works reliably the problem is that the fuel pressure is bleeding
> off.
I read about this in another FAQ. I cycled the pump 8 times before
starting and no luck.
> It could be a leaky injector or a leaky check valve on the fuel pump.
> Apparently ECUs get confused when the engine doesn't start quickly and they
> start adjusting the injection over a wide range. I've had a car (Nissan)
> that simply wouldn't start no matter how long I cranked unless I bumped the
> starter first. That was only a problem when I had opened the fuel rail, but
> it had me going at first!
> If that doesn't work, hold the accelerator wide open while trying to start.
> If that gets the engine started (may take several seconds) the engine is
> flooding because of leaky injectors. Flooding will produce black smoke out
> the tailpipe when the engine starts but it may take an observer to see it.
This worked. It also caused unburned fuel/air to come out of the
intake. The next 4 times I started the car I floored it until it fired
then started normally and it ran fine. However the fifth time it
doesn't want to go. If the injectors are leaking I am concerned about
hydrolock although I suppose most of the fuel will flow back into the
intake manifold. Would a faulty fuel pressure regulator cause this?
>
> In either case, adding a bottle of fuel injector cleaner couldn't hurt, may
> help either condition.
>
> Mike
I'll give it a try. Thanks for all your help!
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 92 Accord won't start but will run
Michael Pardee wrote:
> When you say it "run[s] fine" once started I assume you also mean it has
> normal power and idles when you come to a stop without any trouble.
Yes. I haven't noticed any particular loss of power since this problem
started however I did notice this problem came on gradually. For about
3 weeks before, starting the car in the morning took 1-2 seconds
longer. I had a habit of only engaging the starter for a certain amount
of time instead of until the engine started and that didn't work
anymore.
> If so,
> this suggests to me one of two fuel problems; the engine could be flooding
> because of leaky injectors or the fuel pressure in the rails could be
> bleeding off. Try this test: crank the engine for about a second, let off
> (ignition in the "run" position) for a second or two and then try to start.
> If that works reliably the problem is that the fuel pressure is bleeding
> off.
I read about this in another FAQ. I cycled the pump 8 times before
starting and no luck.
> It could be a leaky injector or a leaky check valve on the fuel pump.
> Apparently ECUs get confused when the engine doesn't start quickly and they
> start adjusting the injection over a wide range. I've had a car (Nissan)
> that simply wouldn't start no matter how long I cranked unless I bumped the
> starter first. That was only a problem when I had opened the fuel rail, but
> it had me going at first!
> If that doesn't work, hold the accelerator wide open while trying to start.
> If that gets the engine started (may take several seconds) the engine is
> flooding because of leaky injectors. Flooding will produce black smoke out
> the tailpipe when the engine starts but it may take an observer to see it.
This worked. It also caused unburned fuel/air to come out of the
intake. The next 4 times I started the car I floored it until it fired
then started normally and it ran fine. However the fifth time it
doesn't want to go. If the injectors are leaking I am concerned about
hydrolock although I suppose most of the fuel will flow back into the
intake manifold. Would a faulty fuel pressure regulator cause this?
>
> In either case, adding a bottle of fuel injector cleaner couldn't hurt, may
> help either condition.
>
> Mike
I'll give it a try. Thanks for all your help!
> When you say it "run[s] fine" once started I assume you also mean it has
> normal power and idles when you come to a stop without any trouble.
Yes. I haven't noticed any particular loss of power since this problem
started however I did notice this problem came on gradually. For about
3 weeks before, starting the car in the morning took 1-2 seconds
longer. I had a habit of only engaging the starter for a certain amount
of time instead of until the engine started and that didn't work
anymore.
> If so,
> this suggests to me one of two fuel problems; the engine could be flooding
> because of leaky injectors or the fuel pressure in the rails could be
> bleeding off. Try this test: crank the engine for about a second, let off
> (ignition in the "run" position) for a second or two and then try to start.
> If that works reliably the problem is that the fuel pressure is bleeding
> off.
I read about this in another FAQ. I cycled the pump 8 times before
starting and no luck.
> It could be a leaky injector or a leaky check valve on the fuel pump.
> Apparently ECUs get confused when the engine doesn't start quickly and they
> start adjusting the injection over a wide range. I've had a car (Nissan)
> that simply wouldn't start no matter how long I cranked unless I bumped the
> starter first. That was only a problem when I had opened the fuel rail, but
> it had me going at first!
> If that doesn't work, hold the accelerator wide open while trying to start.
> If that gets the engine started (may take several seconds) the engine is
> flooding because of leaky injectors. Flooding will produce black smoke out
> the tailpipe when the engine starts but it may take an observer to see it.
This worked. It also caused unburned fuel/air to come out of the
intake. The next 4 times I started the car I floored it until it fired
then started normally and it ran fine. However the fifth time it
doesn't want to go. If the injectors are leaking I am concerned about
hydrolock although I suppose most of the fuel will flow back into the
intake manifold. Would a faulty fuel pressure regulator cause this?
>
> In either case, adding a bottle of fuel injector cleaner couldn't hurt, may
> help either condition.
>
> Mike
I'll give it a try. Thanks for all your help!
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