122,000 miles and runs very well, the engine is strong. However, I failed
my emissions so I've done the cheap stuff: new plugs, wires, air filter,
pcv valve, and fuel filter.

Maybe that will help but my main problem is this: I'm burning a
fuel/air/oil/water mixture.

My brother-in-law gave me the car 2 years ago and it has always burned oil.
I drive about 350 miles per week and have to add a quart every 2 weeks.

I overheated the engine about a year ago. Stupid, stupid me. I thought it
was a gauge problem because the needle was bouncing. It was a pinhole in
the radiator which some aluma-seal fixed very nicely. The car runs the same
since so no big deal...maybe.

Ever since then my exhaust is noticeably more white. When driving down hill
if I hit the accelerator I turn into something out of a James Bond movie -
volumnious amounts of white smoke. Water level is fine, I haven't added any
antifreeze since the radiator problem.

So here is my question: what are the best options for fixing the oil and
water burning? Even if I can get through my emissions test I still want to
remedy the problem.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

testy wrote:
> 122,000 miles and runs very well, the engine is strong. However, I failed
> my emissions so I've done the cheap stuff: new plugs, wires, air filter,
> pcv valve, and fuel filter.
>
> Maybe that will help but my main problem is this: I'm burning a
> fuel/air/oil/water mixture.
>
> My brother-in-law gave me the car 2 years ago and it has always burned oil.
> I drive about 350 miles per week and have to add a quart every 2 weeks.
>
> I overheated the engine about a year ago. Stupid, stupid me. I thought it
> was a gauge problem because the needle was bouncing. It was a pinhole in
> the radiator which some aluma-seal fixed very nicely. The car runs the same
> since so no big deal...maybe.
>
> Ever since then my exhaust is noticeably more white. When driving down hill
> if I hit the accelerator I turn into something out of a James Bond movie -
> volumnious amounts of white smoke. Water level is fine, I haven't added any
> antifreeze since the radiator problem.
>
> So here is my question: what are the best options for fixing the oil and
> water burning? Even if I can get through my emissions test I still want to
> remedy the problem.
>
> Thanks in advance for any help.

how did you test to be sure there's coolant? looking at the expension
bottle doesn't tell you anything because if the system's leaking, and
you said it did, when it cools, it sucks air through the leak, not fluid
from the bottle.

so, let's assume you've got little coolant. now the engine temp sensor
[NOT the gauge on the dash] is not getting the right signal about the
engine's temp, so it's injecting too much fuel to compensate for extreme
low temp. that causes oil burn too because excess fuel dilutes the oil
film on the cylinder walls. and causes accelerated wear.

white smoke? chances are the head gasket's gone. you can get a
compression test to give you some pointers on this.

other smog factors? oxygen sensor. you can get one from a junk yard
for about $15.

could also be the catalyst. if you've been running the car with any of
the above for an extended period, that could be dead too.

bottom line: the motor could be salvagable, but it could also be
damaged with excess heat, excess cylinder wear, etc. if you don't have
the ability to test all the above, you need to take it to someone that
does. it may then become cost effective to replace, not repair. but
whatever you do, DO NOT replace the motor without replacing the radiator
& making absolutely certain there are no coolant leaks or you'll get the
same problems all over again. and you have to take the radiator cap off
to check coolant. DO NOT rely on looking at the expansion bottle level.

 

testy wrote:
> 122,000 miles and runs very well, the engine is strong. However, I failed
> my emissions so I've done the cheap stuff: new plugs, wires, air filter,
> pcv valve, and fuel filter.
>
> Maybe that will help but my main problem is this: I'm burning a
> fuel/air/oil/water mixture.
>
> My brother-in-law gave me the car 2 years ago and it has always burned oil.
> I drive about 350 miles per week and have to add a quart every 2 weeks.
>
> I overheated the engine about a year ago. Stupid, stupid me. I thought it
> was a gauge problem because the needle was bouncing. It was a pinhole in
> the radiator which some aluma-seal fixed very nicely. The car runs the same
> since so no big deal...maybe.
>
> Ever since then my exhaust is noticeably more white. When driving down hill
> if I hit the accelerator I turn into something out of a James Bond movie -
> volumnious amounts of white smoke. Water level is fine, I haven't added any
> antifreeze since the radiator problem.
>
> So here is my question: what are the best options for fixing the oil and
> water burning? Even if I can get through my emissions test I still want to
> remedy the problem.
>
> Thanks in advance for any help.

how did you test to be sure there's coolant? looking at the expension
bottle doesn't tell you anything because if the system's leaking, and
you said it did, when it cools, it sucks air through the leak, not fluid
from the bottle.

so, let's assume you've got little coolant. now the engine temp sensor
[NOT the gauge on the dash] is not getting the right signal about the
engine's temp, so it's injecting too much fuel to compensate for extreme
low temp. that causes oil burn too because excess fuel dilutes the oil
film on the cylinder walls. and causes accelerated wear.

white smoke? chances are the head gasket's gone. you can get a
compression test to give you some pointers on this.

other smog factors? oxygen sensor. you can get one from a junk yard
for about $15.

could also be the catalyst. if you've been running the car with any of
the above for an extended period, that could be dead too.

bottom line: the motor could be salvagable, but it could also be
damaged with excess heat, excess cylinder wear, etc. if you don't have
the ability to test all the above, you need to take it to someone that
does. it may then become cost effective to replace, not repair. but
whatever you do, DO NOT replace the motor without replacing the radiator
& making absolutely certain there are no coolant leaks or you'll get the
same problems all over again. and you have to take the radiator cap off
to check coolant. DO NOT rely on looking at the expansion bottle level.

 

Thanks for the reply.

I have popped the cap on the radiator several times and it is always full.
The antifreeze looks nice and green. Like I said, I haven't added any since
I overheated it. Is it possible that the engine temp sensor is still not
getting the right signal?

I figured as much with the head gasket. Thanks for the tip about the
compression test. Is that a "routine" check that most qualified mechanics
can do?

Can a mechanic check the catalyst for me? I'm assuming you mean the
catalytic converter. Maybe a good muffler shop?

Thanks for the advice on replacing the radiator in addition to the motor. I
really appreciate it.

 

Thanks for the reply.

I have popped the cap on the radiator several times and it is always full.
The antifreeze looks nice and green. Like I said, I haven't added any since
I overheated it. Is it possible that the engine temp sensor is still not
getting the right signal?

I figured as much with the head gasket. Thanks for the tip about the
compression test. Is that a "routine" check that most qualified mechanics
can do?

Can a mechanic check the catalyst for me? I'm assuming you mean the
catalytic converter. Maybe a good muffler shop?

Thanks for the advice on replacing the radiator in addition to the motor. I
really appreciate it.

 

"testy" <mikfaitdiespamdie@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:RsINd.10847$uc.7432@trnddc05...
> Thanks for the reply.
>
> I have popped the cap on the radiator several times and it is always full.
> The antifreeze looks nice and green. Like I said, I haven't added any
> since
> I overheated it. Is it possible that the engine temp sensor is still not
> getting the right signal?
>
> I figured as much with the head gasket. Thanks for the tip about the
> compression test. Is that a "routine" check that most qualified mechanics
> can do?
>
Yes - it is a pretty standard test that takes about 1/2 hour.

> Can a mechanic check the catalyst for me? I'm assuming you mean the
> catalytic converter. Maybe a good muffler shop?
>
Bad catalytic converters usually appear as loss of power - as though the
accelerator doesn't do anything past, say, half throttle - and/or failing
emissions tests (in post-'96 North American cars it will also set the "check
engine" light). I'd recommend not worrying about it until trouble appears.

> Thanks for the advice on replacing the radiator in addition to the motor.
> I
> really appreciate it.
>
>

Mike

 

"testy" <mikfaitdiespamdie@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:RsINd.10847$uc.7432@trnddc05...
> Thanks for the reply.
>
> I have popped the cap on the radiator several times and it is always full.
> The antifreeze looks nice and green. Like I said, I haven't added any
> since
> I overheated it. Is it possible that the engine temp sensor is still not
> getting the right signal?
>
> I figured as much with the head gasket. Thanks for the tip about the
> compression test. Is that a "routine" check that most qualified mechanics
> can do?
>
Yes - it is a pretty standard test that takes about 1/2 hour.

> Can a mechanic check the catalyst for me? I'm assuming you mean the
> catalytic converter. Maybe a good muffler shop?
>
Bad catalytic converters usually appear as loss of power - as though the
accelerator doesn't do anything past, say, half throttle - and/or failing
emissions tests (in post-'96 North American cars it will also set the "check
engine" light). I'd recommend not worrying about it until trouble appears.

> Thanks for the advice on replacing the radiator in addition to the motor.
> I
> really appreciate it.
>
>

Mike

 

"testy" <mikfaitdiespamdie@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:RsINd.10847$uc.7432@trnddc05:

> Thanks for the reply.
>
> I have popped the cap on the radiator several times and it is always
> full. The antifreeze looks nice and green. Like I said, I haven't
> added any since I overheated it. Is it possible that the engine temp
> sensor is still not getting the right signal?
>
> I figured as much with the head gasket. Thanks for the tip about the
> compression test. Is that a "routine" check that most qualified
> mechanics can do?


Not a "compression" test, a "pressure" test.

An air line adapter is screwed into the spark plug hole and air is fed into
the cylinder. You're looking for bubbles into the coolant. Since the water
jacket is right next to the cylinder, that's the first place a failed
gasket usually leaks.


>
> Can a mechanic check the catalyst for me? I'm assuming you mean the
> catalytic converter. Maybe a good muffler shop?


A mechanic can measure the cat temperature with an infra-red thermometer.
The outlet should be a lot hotter than the inlet. If it's the other way
around or even both ends, the cat's bad.

The other way is to give the car an emissions test.


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

"testy" <mikfaitdiespamdie@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:RsINd.10847$uc.7432@trnddc05:

> Thanks for the reply.
>
> I have popped the cap on the radiator several times and it is always
> full. The antifreeze looks nice and green. Like I said, I haven't
> added any since I overheated it. Is it possible that the engine temp
> sensor is still not getting the right signal?
>
> I figured as much with the head gasket. Thanks for the tip about the
> compression test. Is that a "routine" check that most qualified
> mechanics can do?


Not a "compression" test, a "pressure" test.

An air line adapter is screwed into the spark plug hole and air is fed into
the cylinder. You're looking for bubbles into the coolant. Since the water
jacket is right next to the cylinder, that's the first place a failed
gasket usually leaks.


>
> Can a mechanic check the catalyst for me? I'm assuming you mean the
> catalytic converter. Maybe a good muffler shop?


A mechanic can measure the cat temperature with an infra-red thermometer.
The outlet should be a lot hotter than the inlet. If it's the other way
around or even both ends, the cat's bad.

The other way is to give the car an emissions test.


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

TeGGer® wrote:
> "testy" <mikfaitdiespamdie@yahoo.com> wrote in
> news:RsINd.10847$uc.7432@trnddc05:
>
>
>>Thanks for the reply.
>>
>>I have popped the cap on the radiator several times and it is always
>>full. The antifreeze looks nice and green. Like I said, I haven't
>>added any since I overheated it. Is it possible that the engine temp
>>sensor is still not getting the right signal?
>>
>>I figured as much with the head gasket. Thanks for the tip about the
>>compression test. Is that a "routine" check that most qualified
>>mechanics can do?
>
>
>
> Not a "compression" test, a "pressure" test.

thanks - that's right!

>
> An air line adapter is screwed into the spark plug hole and air is fed into
> the cylinder. You're looking for bubbles into the coolant. Since the water
> jacket is right next to the cylinder, that's the first place a failed
> gasket usually leaks.
>
>
>
>>Can a mechanic check the catalyst for me? I'm assuming you mean the
>>catalytic converter. Maybe a good muffler shop?
>
>
>
> A mechanic can measure the cat temperature with an infra-red thermometer.
> The outlet should be a lot hotter than the inlet. If it's the other way
> around or even both ends, the cat's bad.
>
> The other way is to give the car an emissions test.
>
>

 

TeGGer® wrote:
> "testy" <mikfaitdiespamdie@yahoo.com> wrote in
> news:RsINd.10847$uc.7432@trnddc05:
>
>
>>Thanks for the reply.
>>
>>I have popped the cap on the radiator several times and it is always
>>full. The antifreeze looks nice and green. Like I said, I haven't
>>added any since I overheated it. Is it possible that the engine temp
>>sensor is still not getting the right signal?
>>
>>I figured as much with the head gasket. Thanks for the tip about the
>>compression test. Is that a "routine" check that most qualified
>>mechanics can do?
>
>
>
> Not a "compression" test, a "pressure" test.

thanks - that's right!

>
> An air line adapter is screwed into the spark plug hole and air is fed into
> the cylinder. You're looking for bubbles into the coolant. Since the water
> jacket is right next to the cylinder, that's the first place a failed
> gasket usually leaks.
>
>
>
>>Can a mechanic check the catalyst for me? I'm assuming you mean the
>>catalytic converter. Maybe a good muffler shop?
>
>
>
> A mechanic can measure the cat temperature with an infra-red thermometer.
> The outlet should be a lot hotter than the inlet. If it's the other way
> around or even both ends, the cat's bad.
>
> The other way is to give the car an emissions test.
>
>