Yep, you've got that right.


On Tue, 29 Jul 2003 21:43:14 GMT, NOSPAMrex@REMOVEtxol.net (Rex B)
wrote:

>The rule is "Never Re-install a used timing belt".
>
>On Tue, 29 Jul 2003 04:00:36 GMT, Jay C. <jayKILLSPAM@jaycatmull.com> wrote:
>
>|Thanks,
>|
>|That's the manual I have (Haynes 84-91).
>|
>|I asked the questions below because I'm curious if I'll run into some
>|other difficulties like the one I just resolved (crank bolt).
>|
>|Yeah, the water pump is a good call. It was replaced by a shop a year
>|ago...the same shop that said that the timing belt could probably get
>|by for a little while longer. I suppose I should have asked them to
>|define "little while".
>|
>|It was my fault that this happened because of delaying scheduled
>|maintenance. Never again...if I can't afford to pay a shop do it on
>|its due date, I'll do it myself.
>|
>|Jay C.
>|
>|
>|
>|
>|On Tue, 29 Jul 2003 00:35:50 GMT, Tom <nospam@attbi.com.invalid>
>|wrote:
>|
>|>Jay C. wrote:
>|>>
>|>> Okay, with the assistance of a monster air impact driver, my son was
>|>> able to loosen and remove the crank bolt for my timing belt project.
>|>>
>|>> I have to tow the car home tonight from the shop where he works, so I
>|>> can finish the R & R of the timing belt.
>|>>
>|>> Next problem and question will be, how to refit the timing belt and
>|>> align the crank and cam pulleys exactly so that the thing isn't off by
>|>> one of more teeth.
>|>>
>|>> I know that the belt must have slipped several notches since it is
>|>> missing quite a few teeth in one section. [I am still hoping for NO
>|>> engine damage but that will have to be determined after the belt is
>|>> installed]
>|>>
>|>> The distributor is still in proper location so I can determine #1
>|>> cylinder TDC from the location of the rotor and the marks on the cam
>|>> pulley but one of the crank alignment sights(sic?) on the timing belt
>|>> cover seems to be missing. I only see one sight for lining up the
>|>> crank mark and it's about 2-1/2 inches away from the pulley notch. I
>|>> hope I can align it from eyeball at that distance.
>|>>
>|>> If any of you have any suggestions before I get too far along at this
>|>> point, please let me know.
>|>
>|>Pick up a Haynes manual for 84-91 Civic for step by step intructions
>|>and illustrations(<$15). If the water pump has not been replaced
>|>recently, now is the time to do it, since you'll have good
>|>access. The following crx howto will give you some idea, but note
>|>the timing marks are different.
>|>http://www.crxsi.com/resources/repai...belt/index.htm
>|

 

Yep, you've got that right.


On Tue, 29 Jul 2003 21:43:14 GMT, NOSPAMrex@REMOVEtxol.net (Rex B)
wrote:

>The rule is "Never Re-install a used timing belt".
>
>On Tue, 29 Jul 2003 04:00:36 GMT, Jay C. <jayKILLSPAM@jaycatmull.com> wrote:
>
>|Thanks,
>|
>|That's the manual I have (Haynes 84-91).
>|
>|I asked the questions below because I'm curious if I'll run into some
>|other difficulties like the one I just resolved (crank bolt).
>|
>|Yeah, the water pump is a good call. It was replaced by a shop a year
>|ago...the same shop that said that the timing belt could probably get
>|by for a little while longer. I suppose I should have asked them to
>|define "little while".
>|
>|It was my fault that this happened because of delaying scheduled
>|maintenance. Never again...if I can't afford to pay a shop do it on
>|its due date, I'll do it myself.
>|
>|Jay C.
>|
>|
>|
>|
>|On Tue, 29 Jul 2003 00:35:50 GMT, Tom <nospam@attbi.com.invalid>
>|wrote:
>|
>|>Jay C. wrote:
>|>>
>|>> Okay, with the assistance of a monster air impact driver, my son was
>|>> able to loosen and remove the crank bolt for my timing belt project.
>|>>
>|>> I have to tow the car home tonight from the shop where he works, so I
>|>> can finish the R & R of the timing belt.
>|>>
>|>> Next problem and question will be, how to refit the timing belt and
>|>> align the crank and cam pulleys exactly so that the thing isn't off by
>|>> one of more teeth.
>|>>
>|>> I know that the belt must have slipped several notches since it is
>|>> missing quite a few teeth in one section. [I am still hoping for NO
>|>> engine damage but that will have to be determined after the belt is
>|>> installed]
>|>>
>|>> The distributor is still in proper location so I can determine #1
>|>> cylinder TDC from the location of the rotor and the marks on the cam
>|>> pulley but one of the crank alignment sights(sic?) on the timing belt
>|>> cover seems to be missing. I only see one sight for lining up the
>|>> crank mark and it's about 2-1/2 inches away from the pulley notch. I
>|>> hope I can align it from eyeball at that distance.
>|>>
>|>> If any of you have any suggestions before I get too far along at this
>|>> point, please let me know.
>|>
>|>Pick up a Haynes manual for 84-91 Civic for step by step intructions
>|>and illustrations(<$15). If the water pump has not been replaced
>|>recently, now is the time to do it, since you'll have good
>|>access. The following crx howto will give you some idea, but note
>|>the timing marks are different.
>|>http://www.crxsi.com/resources/repai...belt/index.htm
>|

 

I hope you put a genuine Honda timing belt in it. If not then you are
taking chances. My cousin would go about 40k miles on a Gates timing belt
before it would strip. Also, I hope you were smart enough to replace the
water pump while you had it apart.
Dave

"Jay C." <jayKILLSPAM@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
news:mekdivou9segi00ge7cmibk1sdlfb0q50l@4ax.com...
>
>
> ...And 20 bucks in parts later, my Honda is back in business. I was
> able to find the timing marks on the NET (Auto Zone web site which is
> a great resource by the way) which matched my car.
>
> I aligned the marks on both the cam and crank pulley to their proper
> location, knowing that I was TDC on #1 cylinder because of the
> distributor/rotor position for number one. I installed the new belt
> and snugged up the tensioner bolt and rotated the engine by hand a
> couple of time to be sure the marks hadn't moved. All was still the
> same so I began reassembling the brackets and mounts and other belts.
> It fired up without any problems and runs just fine.
>
> Thanks everyone for your help.
>
> Jay C.
>
>
>
> On 29 Jul 2003 12:24:27 -0700, jcdech@hotmail.com (John D.) wrote:
>
> >Okay, sorry then. In this new post you didn't say you had one. I
> >assumed you didn't.
> >
> >When you see all the people here and in the Toyota/Nissan newsgroups
> >asking simple questions that manuals would answer, apparently FEW
> >people asking said questions use manuals. It is not recommended to
> >open up the engine -- or much else -- without a manual...stupid
> >mistakes can cost big money. I know.
> >
> >I have the Owner's Manual and the Haynes Repair Manual, but DO plan to
> >get the factory authorized Nissan Shop Manual...almost $100 but it'll
> >be worth it. I EXPECT everything to be in there for that kind of money
> >though. It beter be.
> >
> >
> >So, your manual does NOT show the alignment marks for the gears?
> >That's hard to believe. Are you able to access a Chilton manual?
> >
> >How about going down to the dealership and askign to speak to the
> >Service Advisor (SA)...ask a "quick question re: the alignment marks
> >are. If he balks or is too busy, then ask to speak to a mechanic (M).
> >Sometimes you have to be firm (but not unpleasant). Scan (on your
> >computer or a copy machine) some of the diagrams/images of what models
> >ARE shown in your Haynes -- the timing belt/gear images -- so the SA
> >or M can show you exactly what to look for or even indicate where the
> >marks should be by writing on your paper...that may be all you need.
> >
> >While there, ask him anything else you can think of and get all the
> >info you can, but don't wear out your welcome and be very thankful.
> >
> >Let us know how it goes.
> >
> >Good luck,
> >
> >John D.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Jay C. <jayKILLSPAM@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
news:<j8ubivglsqoeb22o1q9kmra9aegd3qb2bt@4ax.com>. ..
> >> Ummm. I have always had a manual...at least ever since I started on
> >> this project.
> >>
> >> I have to agree with the guy at the link that Tom gave me; the manual
> >> kind of sucks. They continually diagram for a different model than
> >> mine and according to the author at the link, major errors have been
> >> found in the manual.
> >>
> >> Nevertheless, I am sticking to the manual along with other information
> >> that you guys have helped me with.
> >>
> >> Jay C. ....the guy with the Haynes manual....really.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On 28 Jul 2003 20:56:44 -0700, jcdech@hotmail.com (John D.) wrote:
> >>
> >> >You shouldn't even TRY to do something like this without a manual!
> >> >People all the time here will say get a manual. Did you just feel
> >> >"lucky" or something? WTH were you thinking?
> >> >
> >> >Get a manual and be done with it!
> >> >
> >> >John D.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >Jay C. <jayKILLSPAM@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
news:<1t5bivsnl9nam2ddjvb4s5ompvoq6ifucl@4ax.com>. ..
> >> >> Okay, with the assistance of a monster air impact driver, my son
was
> >> >> able to loosen and remove the crank bolt for my timing belt project.
> >> >>
> >> >> I have to tow the car home tonight from the shop where he works, so
I
> >> >> can finish the R & R of the timing belt.
> >> >>
> >> >> Next problem and question will be, how to refit the timing belt and
> >> >> align the crank and cam pulleys exactly so that the thing isn't off
by
> >> >> one of more teeth.
> >> >>
> >> >> I know that the belt must have slipped several notches since it is
> >> >> missing quite a few teeth in one section. [I am still hoping for NO
> >> >> engine damage but that will have to be determined after the belt is
> >> >> installed]
> >> >>
> >> >> The distributor is still in proper location so I can determine #1
> >> >> cylinder TDC from the location of the rotor and the marks on the cam
> >> >> pulley but one of the crank alignment sights(sic?) on the timing
belt
> >> >> cover seems to be missing. I only see one sight for lining up the
> >> >> crank mark and it's about 2-1/2 inches away from the pulley notch.
I
> >> >> hope I can align it from eyeball at that distance.
> >> >>
> >> >> If any of you have any suggestions before I get too far along at
this
> >> >> point, please let me know.
> >> >>
> >> >> Thanks
> >> >>
> >> >> Jay C.
> >> >> Remove KILLSPAM to email me.
>

 

I hope you put a genuine Honda timing belt in it. If not then you are
taking chances. My cousin would go about 40k miles on a Gates timing belt
before it would strip. Also, I hope you were smart enough to replace the
water pump while you had it apart.
Dave

"Jay C." <jayKILLSPAM@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
news:mekdivou9segi00ge7cmibk1sdlfb0q50l@4ax.com...
>
>
> ...And 20 bucks in parts later, my Honda is back in business. I was
> able to find the timing marks on the NET (Auto Zone web site which is
> a great resource by the way) which matched my car.
>
> I aligned the marks on both the cam and crank pulley to their proper
> location, knowing that I was TDC on #1 cylinder because of the
> distributor/rotor position for number one. I installed the new belt
> and snugged up the tensioner bolt and rotated the engine by hand a
> couple of time to be sure the marks hadn't moved. All was still the
> same so I began reassembling the brackets and mounts and other belts.
> It fired up without any problems and runs just fine.
>
> Thanks everyone for your help.
>
> Jay C.
>
>
>
> On 29 Jul 2003 12:24:27 -0700, jcdech@hotmail.com (John D.) wrote:
>
> >Okay, sorry then. In this new post you didn't say you had one. I
> >assumed you didn't.
> >
> >When you see all the people here and in the Toyota/Nissan newsgroups
> >asking simple questions that manuals would answer, apparently FEW
> >people asking said questions use manuals. It is not recommended to
> >open up the engine -- or much else -- without a manual...stupid
> >mistakes can cost big money. I know.
> >
> >I have the Owner's Manual and the Haynes Repair Manual, but DO plan to
> >get the factory authorized Nissan Shop Manual...almost $100 but it'll
> >be worth it. I EXPECT everything to be in there for that kind of money
> >though. It beter be.
> >
> >
> >So, your manual does NOT show the alignment marks for the gears?
> >That's hard to believe. Are you able to access a Chilton manual?
> >
> >How about going down to the dealership and askign to speak to the
> >Service Advisor (SA)...ask a "quick question re: the alignment marks
> >are. If he balks or is too busy, then ask to speak to a mechanic (M).
> >Sometimes you have to be firm (but not unpleasant). Scan (on your
> >computer or a copy machine) some of the diagrams/images of what models
> >ARE shown in your Haynes -- the timing belt/gear images -- so the SA
> >or M can show you exactly what to look for or even indicate where the
> >marks should be by writing on your paper...that may be all you need.
> >
> >While there, ask him anything else you can think of and get all the
> >info you can, but don't wear out your welcome and be very thankful.
> >
> >Let us know how it goes.
> >
> >Good luck,
> >
> >John D.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Jay C. <jayKILLSPAM@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
news:<j8ubivglsqoeb22o1q9kmra9aegd3qb2bt@4ax.com>. ..
> >> Ummm. I have always had a manual...at least ever since I started on
> >> this project.
> >>
> >> I have to agree with the guy at the link that Tom gave me; the manual
> >> kind of sucks. They continually diagram for a different model than
> >> mine and according to the author at the link, major errors have been
> >> found in the manual.
> >>
> >> Nevertheless, I am sticking to the manual along with other information
> >> that you guys have helped me with.
> >>
> >> Jay C. ....the guy with the Haynes manual....really.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On 28 Jul 2003 20:56:44 -0700, jcdech@hotmail.com (John D.) wrote:
> >>
> >> >You shouldn't even TRY to do something like this without a manual!
> >> >People all the time here will say get a manual. Did you just feel
> >> >"lucky" or something? WTH were you thinking?
> >> >
> >> >Get a manual and be done with it!
> >> >
> >> >John D.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >Jay C. <jayKILLSPAM@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
news:<1t5bivsnl9nam2ddjvb4s5ompvoq6ifucl@4ax.com>. ..
> >> >> Okay, with the assistance of a monster air impact driver, my son
was
> >> >> able to loosen and remove the crank bolt for my timing belt project.
> >> >>
> >> >> I have to tow the car home tonight from the shop where he works, so
I
> >> >> can finish the R & R of the timing belt.
> >> >>
> >> >> Next problem and question will be, how to refit the timing belt and
> >> >> align the crank and cam pulleys exactly so that the thing isn't off
by
> >> >> one of more teeth.
> >> >>
> >> >> I know that the belt must have slipped several notches since it is
> >> >> missing quite a few teeth in one section. [I am still hoping for NO
> >> >> engine damage but that will have to be determined after the belt is
> >> >> installed]
> >> >>
> >> >> The distributor is still in proper location so I can determine #1
> >> >> cylinder TDC from the location of the rotor and the marks on the cam
> >> >> pulley but one of the crank alignment sights(sic?) on the timing
belt
> >> >> cover seems to be missing. I only see one sight for lining up the
> >> >> crank mark and it's about 2-1/2 inches away from the pulley notch.
I
> >> >> hope I can align it from eyeball at that distance.
> >> >>
> >> >> If any of you have any suggestions before I get too far along at
this
> >> >> point, please let me know.
> >> >>
> >> >> Thanks
> >> >>
> >> >> Jay C.
> >> >> Remove KILLSPAM to email me.
>