Chuck <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote in
news:tRgYf.9086$Fc.6905@trnddc08:

> On 2006-04-03, TeGGeR® <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>> Chuck <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote in
>> news:qKeYf.21678$fQ6.10582@trnddc03:

>
>>Have you checked ignition timing
>> while cranking? Do you have the distributor somehow out of time 180
>> degrees? When was the timing belt changed last?
>>
> I looked at the top part of the belt when I adjusted the valves and
> saw nothing but I didn't really inspect the whole thing. What I saw
> didn't look bad. It was running fine and all of a sudden wouldn't
> start or do anything. I hate to think what the odds are of the thing
> jumping time *exactly* 180 degrees.




It wouldn't, of course. But it might jump just enough to make the plugs
fire too far down the power stroke.

A suggestion, just to eliminate this as a possibility: Turn the engine by
hand with a wrench so the middle of the three marks on the crank pulley is
lined up with the timing belt cover. Now pull the cap off the distributor.
Where's the rotor pointed? It ought to be pointed pretty much right at the
#1 plug wire contact.



--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

Chuck <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote in
news:tRgYf.9086$Fc.6905@trnddc08:

> On 2006-04-03, TeGGeR® <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>> Chuck <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote in
>> news:qKeYf.21678$fQ6.10582@trnddc03:

>
>>Have you checked ignition timing
>> while cranking? Do you have the distributor somehow out of time 180
>> degrees? When was the timing belt changed last?
>>
> I looked at the top part of the belt when I adjusted the valves and
> saw nothing but I didn't really inspect the whole thing. What I saw
> didn't look bad. It was running fine and all of a sudden wouldn't
> start or do anything. I hate to think what the odds are of the thing
> jumping time *exactly* 180 degrees.




It wouldn't, of course. But it might jump just enough to make the plugs
fire too far down the power stroke.

A suggestion, just to eliminate this as a possibility: Turn the engine by
hand with a wrench so the middle of the three marks on the crank pulley is
lined up with the timing belt cover. Now pull the cap off the distributor.
Where's the rotor pointed? It ought to be pointed pretty much right at the
#1 plug wire contact.



--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

"TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in
news:Xns979ABFE23ADCBtegger@207.14.113.17:

> Chuck <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote in
> news:tRgYf.9086$Fc.6905@trnddc08:
>
>> On 2006-04-03, TeGGeR® <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>> Chuck <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote in
>>> news:qKeYf.21678$fQ6.10582@trnddc03:
>
>>
>>>Have you checked ignition timing
>>> while cranking? Do you have the distributor somehow out of time 180
>>> degrees? When was the timing belt changed last?
>>>
>> I looked at the top part of the belt when I adjusted the valves and
>> saw nothing but I didn't really inspect the whole thing. What I saw
>> didn't look bad. It was running fine and all of a sudden wouldn't
>> start or do anything. I hate to think what the odds are of the thing
>> jumping time *exactly* 180 degrees.
>
>
>
>
> It wouldn't, of course. But it might jump just enough to make the
> plugs fire too far down the power stroke.
>
> A suggestion, just to eliminate this as a possibility: Turn the engine
> by hand with a wrench so the middle of the three marks on the crank
> pulley is lined up with the timing belt cover. Now pull the cap off
> the distributor. Where's the rotor pointed? It ought to be pointed
> pretty much right at the #1 plug wire contact.
>
>
>


Needless to say, you have to be at TDC COMPRESSION for this, so the valves
would be closed.


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

"TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in
news:Xns979ABFE23ADCBtegger@207.14.113.17:

> Chuck <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote in
> news:tRgYf.9086$Fc.6905@trnddc08:
>
>> On 2006-04-03, TeGGeR® <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>> Chuck <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote in
>>> news:qKeYf.21678$fQ6.10582@trnddc03:
>
>>
>>>Have you checked ignition timing
>>> while cranking? Do you have the distributor somehow out of time 180
>>> degrees? When was the timing belt changed last?
>>>
>> I looked at the top part of the belt when I adjusted the valves and
>> saw nothing but I didn't really inspect the whole thing. What I saw
>> didn't look bad. It was running fine and all of a sudden wouldn't
>> start or do anything. I hate to think what the odds are of the thing
>> jumping time *exactly* 180 degrees.
>
>
>
>
> It wouldn't, of course. But it might jump just enough to make the
> plugs fire too far down the power stroke.
>
> A suggestion, just to eliminate this as a possibility: Turn the engine
> by hand with a wrench so the middle of the three marks on the crank
> pulley is lined up with the timing belt cover. Now pull the cap off
> the distributor. Where's the rotor pointed? It ought to be pointed
> pretty much right at the #1 plug wire contact.
>
>
>


Needless to say, you have to be at TDC COMPRESSION for this, so the valves
would be closed.


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

On 2006-04-03, Elle <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
> "Chuck" <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote
>> On 2006-04-03, TeGGeR® <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>> Chuck <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote in
>>>> I don't see any fuel spray. I tried starting fluid and
>>>> gas in the past
>>>> and get nothing, not even a sputter. They may not reach
>>>> the cylinders
>>>> though with the car on jackstands the fuel may be
>>>> draining the other
>>>> direction.
>>>>
>>>> I guess I need to know what feeds the injectors. I've
>>>> checked fuses.
>>>
>>>
>>> If you have throttle-body injection, the injectors and
>>> the fuel pump all
>>> get their power from termial 7 of the Main Relay.
>>>
>>
>> I just checked the solder joints on the relay. They all
>> *looked* fine.
>>
>>> No sputter at all is odd. With a good strong spark, you
>>> should be getting
>>> *some* sort of reponse from the engine.
>>
>> I just pulled all the plugs and checked for spark an its
>> fine on all of
>> them. In fact, what little gas was on the plugs would
>> ignite.
>>
>>>Have you checked ignition timing
>>> while cranking? Do you have the distributor somehow out
>>> of time 180
>>> degrees? When was the timing belt changed last?
>>>
>> I looked at the top part of the belt when I adjusted the
>> valves and saw
>> nothing but I didn't really inspect the whole thing. What
>> I saw didn't
>> look bad. It was running fine and all of a sudden wouldn't
>> start or do
>> anything. I hate to think what the odds are of the thing
>> jumping time
>> *exactly* 180 degrees. I did notice that when the ignition
>> is on, the
>> EGR selinoid makes some noise. I also hear a click from
>> the MAP sensor.
>> I'm not sure if either of these are normal. BTW, what I
>> call the EGR is
>> what I think it is. My manual doesn't show much. What I'm
>> calling the
>> EGR is located on the RH side of the intake and has hoses
>> to intake and
>> air cleaner. I don't know if either of these would cause
>> it to fail
>> starting.
>
> The 91 fuel injected Civic does not have an EGR system.
>
It must be the high idle thingamagic them. The Haynes manual doesn't
show what it is.

>> All I have for a timing light is an old fashioned one that
>> won't work. I
>> need to buy an induction type one.
>>>
>>
>> I've read that a condenser will make it not start, but I
>> can't locate
>> it. I assume it's internal to the ignitor.
>
> This condenser (a.k.a. "noise suppressor") is supposed to be
> external on the 91 Civic. Yet I haven't found the one that's
> supposed to be on my own 91 Civic LX.
>
> Still, it's worth seeking. See
> http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id5.html for some
> guidance on the subject.
>

I traced the wire and don't see mine either. I do see an empty stand-off
for one though, but the wires it says to trace go into the distributor.

>
> You floored the gas pedal, to see if it was flooding, right,
> per Tegger's site's directions, right?
>
>
I did this. Even let it set a month and tried it.

 

On 2006-04-03, Elle <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
> "Chuck" <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote
>> On 2006-04-03, TeGGeR® <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>> Chuck <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote in
>>>> I don't see any fuel spray. I tried starting fluid and
>>>> gas in the past
>>>> and get nothing, not even a sputter. They may not reach
>>>> the cylinders
>>>> though with the car on jackstands the fuel may be
>>>> draining the other
>>>> direction.
>>>>
>>>> I guess I need to know what feeds the injectors. I've
>>>> checked fuses.
>>>
>>>
>>> If you have throttle-body injection, the injectors and
>>> the fuel pump all
>>> get their power from termial 7 of the Main Relay.
>>>
>>
>> I just checked the solder joints on the relay. They all
>> *looked* fine.
>>
>>> No sputter at all is odd. With a good strong spark, you
>>> should be getting
>>> *some* sort of reponse from the engine.
>>
>> I just pulled all the plugs and checked for spark an its
>> fine on all of
>> them. In fact, what little gas was on the plugs would
>> ignite.
>>
>>>Have you checked ignition timing
>>> while cranking? Do you have the distributor somehow out
>>> of time 180
>>> degrees? When was the timing belt changed last?
>>>
>> I looked at the top part of the belt when I adjusted the
>> valves and saw
>> nothing but I didn't really inspect the whole thing. What
>> I saw didn't
>> look bad. It was running fine and all of a sudden wouldn't
>> start or do
>> anything. I hate to think what the odds are of the thing
>> jumping time
>> *exactly* 180 degrees. I did notice that when the ignition
>> is on, the
>> EGR selinoid makes some noise. I also hear a click from
>> the MAP sensor.
>> I'm not sure if either of these are normal. BTW, what I
>> call the EGR is
>> what I think it is. My manual doesn't show much. What I'm
>> calling the
>> EGR is located on the RH side of the intake and has hoses
>> to intake and
>> air cleaner. I don't know if either of these would cause
>> it to fail
>> starting.
>
> The 91 fuel injected Civic does not have an EGR system.
>
It must be the high idle thingamagic them. The Haynes manual doesn't
show what it is.

>> All I have for a timing light is an old fashioned one that
>> won't work. I
>> need to buy an induction type one.
>>>
>>
>> I've read that a condenser will make it not start, but I
>> can't locate
>> it. I assume it's internal to the ignitor.
>
> This condenser (a.k.a. "noise suppressor") is supposed to be
> external on the 91 Civic. Yet I haven't found the one that's
> supposed to be on my own 91 Civic LX.
>
> Still, it's worth seeking. See
> http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id5.html for some
> guidance on the subject.
>

I traced the wire and don't see mine either. I do see an empty stand-off
for one though, but the wires it says to trace go into the distributor.

>
> You floored the gas pedal, to see if it was flooding, right,
> per Tegger's site's directions, right?
>
>
I did this. Even let it set a month and tried it.

 

On 2006-04-03, TeGGeR® <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
> "TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in
> news:Xns979ABFE23ADCBtegger@207.14.113.17:
>
>> Chuck <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote in
>> news:tRgYf.9086$Fc.6905@trnddc08:
>>
>>> On 2006-04-03, TeGGeR® <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>>> Chuck <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote in
>>>> news:qKeYf.21678$fQ6.10582@trnddc03:
>>
>>>
>>>>Have you checked ignition timing
>>>> while cranking? Do you have the distributor somehow out of time 180
>>>> degrees? When was the timing belt changed last?
>>>>
>>> I looked at the top part of the belt when I adjusted the valves and
>>> saw nothing but I didn't really inspect the whole thing. What I saw
>>> didn't look bad. It was running fine and all of a sudden wouldn't
>>> start or do anything. I hate to think what the odds are of the thing
>>> jumping time *exactly* 180 degrees.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> It wouldn't, of course. But it might jump just enough to make the
>> plugs fire too far down the power stroke.
>>
>> A suggestion, just to eliminate this as a possibility: Turn the engine
>> by hand with a wrench so the middle of the three marks on the crank
>> pulley is lined up with the timing belt cover. Now pull the cap off
>> the distributor. Where's the rotor pointed? It ought to be pointed
>> pretty much right at the #1 plug wire contact.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> Needless to say, you have to be at TDC COMPRESSION for this, so the valves
> would be closed.
>
>
I did this and everything checked out. At first I freaked out then
remembered that I had to go around another turn.

Is TDC the middle of the group of 3 marks or the one all by itself?

Any fusible link or hidden goodie I should be aware of?

 

On 2006-04-03, TeGGeR® <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
> "TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in
> news:Xns979ABFE23ADCBtegger@207.14.113.17:
>
>> Chuck <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote in
>> news:tRgYf.9086$Fc.6905@trnddc08:
>>
>>> On 2006-04-03, TeGGeR® <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>>> Chuck <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote in
>>>> news:qKeYf.21678$fQ6.10582@trnddc03:
>>
>>>
>>>>Have you checked ignition timing
>>>> while cranking? Do you have the distributor somehow out of time 180
>>>> degrees? When was the timing belt changed last?
>>>>
>>> I looked at the top part of the belt when I adjusted the valves and
>>> saw nothing but I didn't really inspect the whole thing. What I saw
>>> didn't look bad. It was running fine and all of a sudden wouldn't
>>> start or do anything. I hate to think what the odds are of the thing
>>> jumping time *exactly* 180 degrees.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> It wouldn't, of course. But it might jump just enough to make the
>> plugs fire too far down the power stroke.
>>
>> A suggestion, just to eliminate this as a possibility: Turn the engine
>> by hand with a wrench so the middle of the three marks on the crank
>> pulley is lined up with the timing belt cover. Now pull the cap off
>> the distributor. Where's the rotor pointed? It ought to be pointed
>> pretty much right at the #1 plug wire contact.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> Needless to say, you have to be at TDC COMPRESSION for this, so the valves
> would be closed.
>
>
I did this and everything checked out. At first I freaked out then
remembered that I had to go around another turn.

Is TDC the middle of the group of 3 marks or the one all by itself?

Any fusible link or hidden goodie I should be aware of?

 

"Chuck" <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote
> On 2006-04-03, Elle <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net>
> wrote:
>> "Chuck" <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote
>>> On 2006-04-03, TeGGeR® <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>>> Chuck <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote in
>>>>> I don't see any fuel spray. I tried starting fluid and
>>>>> gas in the past
>>>>> and get nothing, not even a sputter. They may not
>>>>> reach
>>>>> the cylinders
>>>>> though with the car on jackstands the fuel may be
>>>>> draining the other
>>>>> direction.
>>>>>
>>>>> I guess I need to know what feeds the injectors. I've
>>>>> checked fuses.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> If you have throttle-body injection, the injectors and
>>>> the fuel pump all
>>>> get their power from termial 7 of the Main Relay.
>>>>
>>>
>>> I just checked the solder joints on the relay. They all
>>> *looked* fine.
>>>
>>>> No sputter at all is odd. With a good strong spark, you
>>>> should be getting
>>>> *some* sort of reponse from the engine.
>>>
>>> I just pulled all the plugs and checked for spark an its
>>> fine on all of
>>> them. In fact, what little gas was on the plugs would
>>> ignite.
>>>
>>>>Have you checked ignition timing
>>>> while cranking? Do you have the distributor somehow out
>>>> of time 180
>>>> degrees? When was the timing belt changed last?
>>>>
>>> I looked at the top part of the belt when I adjusted the
>>> valves and saw
>>> nothing but I didn't really inspect the whole thing.
>>> What
>>> I saw didn't
>>> look bad. It was running fine and all of a sudden
>>> wouldn't
>>> start or do
>>> anything. I hate to think what the odds are of the thing
>>> jumping time
>>> *exactly* 180 degrees. I did notice that when the
>>> ignition
>>> is on, the
>>> EGR selinoid makes some noise. I also hear a click from
>>> the MAP sensor.
>>> I'm not sure if either of these are normal. BTW, what I
>>> call the EGR is
>>> what I think it is. My manual doesn't show much. What
>>> I'm
>>> calling the
>>> EGR is located on the RH side of the intake and has
>>> hoses
>>> to intake and
>>> air cleaner. I don't know if either of these would cause
>>> it to fail
>>> starting.
>>
>> The 91 fuel injected Civic does not have an EGR system.
>>
> It must be the high idle thingamagic them. The Haynes
> manual doesn't
> show what it is.

If you have the time, you might try the free online manual
for the 91 Civic at www.autozone.com . It's often more
detailed than the Haynes.

Also, the 91 Civic CRX (or Concerto) factory service manual
at http://www.honda.co.uk/car/owner/workshop.html might
help, too.

TDC is indicated by the stand-alone mark on the pulley. The
three closer together are around 17 degrees or so
B(efore)TDC.

 

"Chuck" <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote
> On 2006-04-03, Elle <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net>
> wrote:
>> "Chuck" <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote
>>> On 2006-04-03, TeGGeR® <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>>> Chuck <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote in
>>>>> I don't see any fuel spray. I tried starting fluid and
>>>>> gas in the past
>>>>> and get nothing, not even a sputter. They may not
>>>>> reach
>>>>> the cylinders
>>>>> though with the car on jackstands the fuel may be
>>>>> draining the other
>>>>> direction.
>>>>>
>>>>> I guess I need to know what feeds the injectors. I've
>>>>> checked fuses.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> If you have throttle-body injection, the injectors and
>>>> the fuel pump all
>>>> get their power from termial 7 of the Main Relay.
>>>>
>>>
>>> I just checked the solder joints on the relay. They all
>>> *looked* fine.
>>>
>>>> No sputter at all is odd. With a good strong spark, you
>>>> should be getting
>>>> *some* sort of reponse from the engine.
>>>
>>> I just pulled all the plugs and checked for spark an its
>>> fine on all of
>>> them. In fact, what little gas was on the plugs would
>>> ignite.
>>>
>>>>Have you checked ignition timing
>>>> while cranking? Do you have the distributor somehow out
>>>> of time 180
>>>> degrees? When was the timing belt changed last?
>>>>
>>> I looked at the top part of the belt when I adjusted the
>>> valves and saw
>>> nothing but I didn't really inspect the whole thing.
>>> What
>>> I saw didn't
>>> look bad. It was running fine and all of a sudden
>>> wouldn't
>>> start or do
>>> anything. I hate to think what the odds are of the thing
>>> jumping time
>>> *exactly* 180 degrees. I did notice that when the
>>> ignition
>>> is on, the
>>> EGR selinoid makes some noise. I also hear a click from
>>> the MAP sensor.
>>> I'm not sure if either of these are normal. BTW, what I
>>> call the EGR is
>>> what I think it is. My manual doesn't show much. What
>>> I'm
>>> calling the
>>> EGR is located on the RH side of the intake and has
>>> hoses
>>> to intake and
>>> air cleaner. I don't know if either of these would cause
>>> it to fail
>>> starting.
>>
>> The 91 fuel injected Civic does not have an EGR system.
>>
> It must be the high idle thingamagic them. The Haynes
> manual doesn't
> show what it is.

If you have the time, you might try the free online manual
for the 91 Civic at www.autozone.com . It's often more
detailed than the Haynes.

Also, the 91 Civic CRX (or Concerto) factory service manual
at http://www.honda.co.uk/car/owner/workshop.html might
help, too.

TDC is indicated by the stand-alone mark on the pulley. The
three closer together are around 17 degrees or so
B(efore)TDC.

 

Chuck <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote in
news:ZSiYf.14253$dU3.422@trnddc01:

> I did this and everything checked out. At first I freaked out then
> remembered that I had to go around another turn.
>
> Is TDC the middle of the group of 3 marks or the one all by itself?



The one all by itself is TDC. The group of three represents plug firing at
idle with the service connector shorted. The middle one is the correct
timing (16º BTDC). The two to either side are the extreme tolerances for
idle timing (14º & 18º BTDC)


..
>
> Any fusible link or hidden goodie I should be aware of?
>


Possibly the injector resistor. But if that were gone you'd expect the CEL
to illuminate.



--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

Chuck <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote in
news:ZSiYf.14253$dU3.422@trnddc01:

> I did this and everything checked out. At first I freaked out then
> remembered that I had to go around another turn.
>
> Is TDC the middle of the group of 3 marks or the one all by itself?



The one all by itself is TDC. The group of three represents plug firing at
idle with the service connector shorted. The middle one is the correct
timing (16º BTDC). The two to either side are the extreme tolerances for
idle timing (14º & 18º BTDC)


..
>
> Any fusible link or hidden goodie I should be aware of?
>


Possibly the injector resistor. But if that were gone you'd expect the CEL
to illuminate.



--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

On 2006-04-04, TeGGeR® <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
> Chuck <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote in
> news:ZSiYf.14253$dU3.422@trnddc01:
>
>> I did this and everything checked out. At first I freaked out then
>> remembered that I had to go around another turn.
>>
>> Is TDC the middle of the group of 3 marks or the one all by itself?
>
>
>
> The one all by itself is TDC. The group of three represents plug firing at
> idle with the service connector shorted. The middle one is the correct
> timing (16º BTDC). The two to either side are the extreme tolerances for
> idle timing (14º & 18º BTDC)
>
>
> .
>>
>> Any fusible link or hidden goodie I should be aware of?
>>
>
>
> Possibly the injector resistor. But if that were gone you'd expect the CEL
> to illuminate.
>
>
>

The book says that the Dual Point doesn't have a resistor.

Here's something weird that may help solve the problem. I pull the plug
off the upper injector to ohm test it and the motor attempted to start.
It at least fires some but doesn't run. One injector reads 1.5 ohms and
the other 8.6 ohms. Should I just replace the upper injector or try
cleaning it? I'll probably just sell this thing cheap so I want to keep
my costs down.

What get me is that the thing wouldn't even attempt to start with
starting fluid or gas manually dumped in it.

 

On 2006-04-04, TeGGeR® <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
> Chuck <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote in
> news:ZSiYf.14253$dU3.422@trnddc01:
>
>> I did this and everything checked out. At first I freaked out then
>> remembered that I had to go around another turn.
>>
>> Is TDC the middle of the group of 3 marks or the one all by itself?
>
>
>
> The one all by itself is TDC. The group of three represents plug firing at
> idle with the service connector shorted. The middle one is the correct
> timing (16º BTDC). The two to either side are the extreme tolerances for
> idle timing (14º & 18º BTDC)
>
>
> .
>>
>> Any fusible link or hidden goodie I should be aware of?
>>
>
>
> Possibly the injector resistor. But if that were gone you'd expect the CEL
> to illuminate.
>
>
>

The book says that the Dual Point doesn't have a resistor.

Here's something weird that may help solve the problem. I pull the plug
off the upper injector to ohm test it and the motor attempted to start.
It at least fires some but doesn't run. One injector reads 1.5 ohms and
the other 8.6 ohms. Should I just replace the upper injector or try
cleaning it? I'll probably just sell this thing cheap so I want to keep
my costs down.

What get me is that the thing wouldn't even attempt to start with
starting fluid or gas manually dumped in it.

 

Chuck <chuck@westmichigan.net> wrote in
news:71UYf.13746$zk4.12992@trnddc05:

> On 2006-04-04, TeGGeR® <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:

>
> The book says that the Dual Point doesn't have a resistor.



Which book? I though they all had resistors.


>
> Here's something weird that may help solve the problem. I pull the
> plug off the upper injector to ohm test it and the motor attempted to
> start. It at least fires some but doesn't run. One injector reads 1.5
> ohms and the other 8.6 ohms. Should I just replace the upper injector
> or try cleaning it? I'll probably just sell this thing cheap so I want
> to keep my costs down.
>
> What get me is that the thing wouldn't even attempt to start with
> starting fluid or gas manually dumped in it.
>



The upper injector is the cold-start injector, is it not?


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TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/