Meld,

Glad you're just cheap instead of poor...there's enough of us poor
folks already! I want to save up, too, not for a house but for an
older "classic" Class A RV for full-timing it. Don't like apartment
living, don't want a house at this point in my life.

As for emissions checks here in TX, they ARE tough, but cars 25 years
old are exempt...safety inspection only for the oldies. Besides, the
car doesn't smoke so it's not a noticable problem but still, not sure
what the cause is.

As for your case, try Eric's test, but you may not know for sure until
you look inside...either by using one of those endoscopes
(camera-probe through the spark plug hole, preferred) or taking the
head off (a job in itself). If a piece of valve or ring broke off,
your cylinder walls are probably scored pretty well.

Good luck,

John D.




meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<3F614119.1010800@yahoo.com>...
> No - I'm not poor just "cheap" well... actually saving up for the house
> addition 8-)
>
> I'm still bombing around in this thing. I'm about to fill up and assess
> the milage to see how much raw gas is going by. My last few tanks were
> 37.4,37.2,37.7,40.2,34.1 (the problem happened at the tail end of the
> last tank) It is interesting how at highway speeds you can't tell there
> is anything wrong. Going up a hill from a stop is very rough. The
> frequency and amount of shaking seems to shift around...
>
> What's a good theory? A piece of valve broke off? or maybe a piece of
> ring? and stuff gets plugged in there and that's how it could "fix" itself?
>
> If the emmissions test 'round here had any teeth in it I wouldn't have
> been able to buy this car in the first place. This would have been a
> good thing! The guy who signed the inspection sticker had the valves
> done and just glanced at the cylinder and declared it "In great shape"
> he didn't check compression... OK so I'm learning.
>
> The big question is: I had since checked compression to be 140-145 on
> all 4 when it was burning oil... so Is this in spec? If so, what do you
> have to do to make sure you've got an OK engine? A leakdown test?
>
> -D
>
>
>
> John D. wrote:
> > Eric,
> >
> > I didn't say it was "fine" for ANY car -- it isn't -- I'm just poor.
> >
> > But maybe the original poster is NOT poor...he should get it fixed as
> > you suggest.
> >
> > I was just stating what a car can do even though it's not 100%. My car
> > has even "fixed itself" on occasion. Amazing. Can't fix its #2
> > cylinder though...
> >
> > John D.
> >
> >
> >
> > Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:<3F5FF968.A88ACF6E@spam.now>...
> >
> >>"John D." wrote:
> >>
> >>>Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder
> >>>with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds
> >>>and it's been that way for about 4 years now!
> >>>
> >>>Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973
> >>>Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured
> >>>engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car
> >>>like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably
> >>>REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty
> >>>well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and
> >>>restore the car at some point if possible.
> >>
> >>That's fine for such an old car. All you loose is some power and loss of
> >>mileage. However, for a more modern car such as the one under consideration in
> >>this thread, the low compression will lead to excessive emissions due to
> >>incompletely burned fuel making it difficult if not impossible to pass an
> >>emissions test. Moreover, this will likely also cause the catalytic converter
> >>to overheat and shorten its life. The incompletely burned fuel could also wash
> >>the rings of oil on that cylinder leading to greater wear.
> >>
> >>Eric
> >

 

Meld,

Glad you're just cheap instead of poor...there's enough of us poor
folks already! I want to save up, too, not for a house but for an
older "classic" Class A RV for full-timing it. Don't like apartment
living, don't want a house at this point in my life.

As for emissions checks here in TX, they ARE tough, but cars 25 years
old are exempt...safety inspection only for the oldies. Besides, the
car doesn't smoke so it's not a noticable problem but still, not sure
what the cause is.

As for your case, try Eric's test, but you may not know for sure until
you look inside...either by using one of those endoscopes
(camera-probe through the spark plug hole, preferred) or taking the
head off (a job in itself). If a piece of valve or ring broke off,
your cylinder walls are probably scored pretty well.

Good luck,

John D.




meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<3F614119.1010800@yahoo.com>...
> No - I'm not poor just "cheap" well... actually saving up for the house
> addition 8-)
>
> I'm still bombing around in this thing. I'm about to fill up and assess
> the milage to see how much raw gas is going by. My last few tanks were
> 37.4,37.2,37.7,40.2,34.1 (the problem happened at the tail end of the
> last tank) It is interesting how at highway speeds you can't tell there
> is anything wrong. Going up a hill from a stop is very rough. The
> frequency and amount of shaking seems to shift around...
>
> What's a good theory? A piece of valve broke off? or maybe a piece of
> ring? and stuff gets plugged in there and that's how it could "fix" itself?
>
> If the emmissions test 'round here had any teeth in it I wouldn't have
> been able to buy this car in the first place. This would have been a
> good thing! The guy who signed the inspection sticker had the valves
> done and just glanced at the cylinder and declared it "In great shape"
> he didn't check compression... OK so I'm learning.
>
> The big question is: I had since checked compression to be 140-145 on
> all 4 when it was burning oil... so Is this in spec? If so, what do you
> have to do to make sure you've got an OK engine? A leakdown test?
>
> -D
>
>
>
> John D. wrote:
> > Eric,
> >
> > I didn't say it was "fine" for ANY car -- it isn't -- I'm just poor.
> >
> > But maybe the original poster is NOT poor...he should get it fixed as
> > you suggest.
> >
> > I was just stating what a car can do even though it's not 100%. My car
> > has even "fixed itself" on occasion. Amazing. Can't fix its #2
> > cylinder though...
> >
> > John D.
> >
> >
> >
> > Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:<3F5FF968.A88ACF6E@spam.now>...
> >
> >>"John D." wrote:
> >>
> >>>Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder
> >>>with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds
> >>>and it's been that way for about 4 years now!
> >>>
> >>>Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973
> >>>Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured
> >>>engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car
> >>>like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably
> >>>REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty
> >>>well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and
> >>>restore the car at some point if possible.
> >>
> >>That's fine for such an old car. All you loose is some power and loss of
> >>mileage. However, for a more modern car such as the one under consideration in
> >>this thread, the low compression will lead to excessive emissions due to
> >>incompletely burned fuel making it difficult if not impossible to pass an
> >>emissions test. Moreover, this will likely also cause the catalytic converter
> >>to overheat and shorten its life. The incompletely burned fuel could also wash
> >>the rings of oil on that cylinder leading to greater wear.
> >>
> >>Eric
> >

 

Meld,

Glad you're just cheap instead of poor...there's enough of us poor
folks already! I want to save up, too, not for a house but for an
older "classic" Class A RV for full-timing it. Don't like apartment
living, don't want a house at this point in my life.

As for emissions checks here in TX, they ARE tough, but cars 25 years
old are exempt...safety inspection only for the oldies. Besides, the
car doesn't smoke so it's not a noticable problem but still, not sure
what the cause is.

As for your case, try Eric's test, but you may not know for sure until
you look inside...either by using one of those endoscopes
(camera-probe through the spark plug hole, preferred) or taking the
head off (a job in itself). If a piece of valve or ring broke off,
your cylinder walls are probably scored pretty well.

Good luck,

John D.




meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<3F614119.1010800@yahoo.com>...
> No - I'm not poor just "cheap" well... actually saving up for the house
> addition 8-)
>
> I'm still bombing around in this thing. I'm about to fill up and assess
> the milage to see how much raw gas is going by. My last few tanks were
> 37.4,37.2,37.7,40.2,34.1 (the problem happened at the tail end of the
> last tank) It is interesting how at highway speeds you can't tell there
> is anything wrong. Going up a hill from a stop is very rough. The
> frequency and amount of shaking seems to shift around...
>
> What's a good theory? A piece of valve broke off? or maybe a piece of
> ring? and stuff gets plugged in there and that's how it could "fix" itself?
>
> If the emmissions test 'round here had any teeth in it I wouldn't have
> been able to buy this car in the first place. This would have been a
> good thing! The guy who signed the inspection sticker had the valves
> done and just glanced at the cylinder and declared it "In great shape"
> he didn't check compression... OK so I'm learning.
>
> The big question is: I had since checked compression to be 140-145 on
> all 4 when it was burning oil... so Is this in spec? If so, what do you
> have to do to make sure you've got an OK engine? A leakdown test?
>
> -D
>
>
>
> John D. wrote:
> > Eric,
> >
> > I didn't say it was "fine" for ANY car -- it isn't -- I'm just poor.
> >
> > But maybe the original poster is NOT poor...he should get it fixed as
> > you suggest.
> >
> > I was just stating what a car can do even though it's not 100%. My car
> > has even "fixed itself" on occasion. Amazing. Can't fix its #2
> > cylinder though...
> >
> > John D.
> >
> >
> >
> > Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:<3F5FF968.A88ACF6E@spam.now>...
> >
> >>"John D." wrote:
> >>
> >>>Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder
> >>>with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds
> >>>and it's been that way for about 4 years now!
> >>>
> >>>Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973
> >>>Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured
> >>>engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car
> >>>like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably
> >>>REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty
> >>>well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and
> >>>restore the car at some point if possible.
> >>
> >>That's fine for such an old car. All you loose is some power and loss of
> >>mileage. However, for a more modern car such as the one under consideration in
> >>this thread, the low compression will lead to excessive emissions due to
> >>incompletely burned fuel making it difficult if not impossible to pass an
> >>emissions test. Moreover, this will likely also cause the catalytic converter
> >>to overheat and shorten its life. The incompletely burned fuel could also wash
> >>the rings of oil on that cylinder leading to greater wear.
> >>
> >>Eric
> >

 

Thanks guys - I keep reaching for chemical solutions... Engine restore
will help me with the scored pistons right? I wonder how to find someone
with a REAL manual that will tell me the target compression. The
Chilton's that I've found in a local library don't seem to have the numbers.

-D

John D. wrote:
> Meld,
>
> Glad you're just cheap instead of poor...there's enough of us poor
> folks already! I want to save up, too, not for a house but for an
> older "classic" Class A RV for full-timing it. Don't like apartment
> living, don't want a house at this point in my life.
>
> As for emissions checks here in TX, they ARE tough, but cars 25 years
> old are exempt...safety inspection only for the oldies. Besides, the
> car doesn't smoke so it's not a noticable problem but still, not sure
> what the cause is.
>
> As for your case, try Eric's test, but you may not know for sure until
> you look inside...either by using one of those endoscopes
> (camera-probe through the spark plug hole, preferred) or taking the
> head off (a job in itself). If a piece of valve or ring broke off,
> your cylinder walls are probably scored pretty well.
>
> Good luck,
>
> John D.
>
>
>
>
> meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<3F614119.1010800@yahoo.com>...
>
>>No - I'm not poor just "cheap" well... actually saving up for the house
>>addition 8-)
>>
>>I'm still bombing around in this thing. I'm about to fill up and assess
>>the milage to see how much raw gas is going by. My last few tanks were
>>37.4,37.2,37.7,40.2,34.1 (the problem happened at the tail end of the
>>last tank) It is interesting how at highway speeds you can't tell there
>>is anything wrong. Going up a hill from a stop is very rough. The
>>frequency and amount of shaking seems to shift around...
>>
>>What's a good theory? A piece of valve broke off? or maybe a piece of
>>ring? and stuff gets plugged in there and that's how it could "fix" itself?
>>
>>If the emmissions test 'round here had any teeth in it I wouldn't have
>>been able to buy this car in the first place. This would have been a
>>good thing! The guy who signed the inspection sticker had the valves
>>done and just glanced at the cylinder and declared it "In great shape"
>>he didn't check compression... OK so I'm learning.
>>
>>The big question is: I had since checked compression to be 140-145 on
>>all 4 when it was burning oil... so Is this in spec? If so, what do you
>>have to do to make sure you've got an OK engine? A leakdown test?
>>
>>-D
>>
>>
>>
>>John D. wrote:
>>
>>>Eric,
>>>
>>>I didn't say it was "fine" for ANY car -- it isn't -- I'm just poor.
>>>
>>>But maybe the original poster is NOT poor...he should get it fixed as
>>>you suggest.
>>>
>>>I was just stating what a car can do even though it's not 100%. My car
>>>has even "fixed itself" on occasion. Amazing. Can't fix its #2
>>>cylinder though...
>>>
>>>John D.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:<3F5FF968.A88ACF6E@spam.now>...
>>>
>>>
>>>>"John D." wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder
>>>>>with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds
>>>>>and it's been that way for about 4 years now!
>>>>>
>>>>>Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973
>>>>>Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured
>>>>>engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car
>>>>>like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably
>>>>>REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty
>>>>>well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and
>>>>>restore the car at some point if possible.
>>>>
>>>>That's fine for such an old car. All you loose is some power and loss of
>>>>mileage. However, for a more modern car such as the one under consideration in
>>>>this thread, the low compression will lead to excessive emissions due to
>>>>incompletely burned fuel making it difficult if not impossible to pass an
>>>>emissions test. Moreover, this will likely also cause the catalytic converter
>>>>to overheat and shorten its life. The incompletely burned fuel could also wash
>>>>the rings of oil on that cylinder leading to greater wear.
>>>>
>>>>Eric
>>>

 

Thanks guys - I keep reaching for chemical solutions... Engine restore
will help me with the scored pistons right? I wonder how to find someone
with a REAL manual that will tell me the target compression. The
Chilton's that I've found in a local library don't seem to have the numbers.

-D

John D. wrote:
> Meld,
>
> Glad you're just cheap instead of poor...there's enough of us poor
> folks already! I want to save up, too, not for a house but for an
> older "classic" Class A RV for full-timing it. Don't like apartment
> living, don't want a house at this point in my life.
>
> As for emissions checks here in TX, they ARE tough, but cars 25 years
> old are exempt...safety inspection only for the oldies. Besides, the
> car doesn't smoke so it's not a noticable problem but still, not sure
> what the cause is.
>
> As for your case, try Eric's test, but you may not know for sure until
> you look inside...either by using one of those endoscopes
> (camera-probe through the spark plug hole, preferred) or taking the
> head off (a job in itself). If a piece of valve or ring broke off,
> your cylinder walls are probably scored pretty well.
>
> Good luck,
>
> John D.
>
>
>
>
> meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<3F614119.1010800@yahoo.com>...
>
>>No - I'm not poor just "cheap" well... actually saving up for the house
>>addition 8-)
>>
>>I'm still bombing around in this thing. I'm about to fill up and assess
>>the milage to see how much raw gas is going by. My last few tanks were
>>37.4,37.2,37.7,40.2,34.1 (the problem happened at the tail end of the
>>last tank) It is interesting how at highway speeds you can't tell there
>>is anything wrong. Going up a hill from a stop is very rough. The
>>frequency and amount of shaking seems to shift around...
>>
>>What's a good theory? A piece of valve broke off? or maybe a piece of
>>ring? and stuff gets plugged in there and that's how it could "fix" itself?
>>
>>If the emmissions test 'round here had any teeth in it I wouldn't have
>>been able to buy this car in the first place. This would have been a
>>good thing! The guy who signed the inspection sticker had the valves
>>done and just glanced at the cylinder and declared it "In great shape"
>>he didn't check compression... OK so I'm learning.
>>
>>The big question is: I had since checked compression to be 140-145 on
>>all 4 when it was burning oil... so Is this in spec? If so, what do you
>>have to do to make sure you've got an OK engine? A leakdown test?
>>
>>-D
>>
>>
>>
>>John D. wrote:
>>
>>>Eric,
>>>
>>>I didn't say it was "fine" for ANY car -- it isn't -- I'm just poor.
>>>
>>>But maybe the original poster is NOT poor...he should get it fixed as
>>>you suggest.
>>>
>>>I was just stating what a car can do even though it's not 100%. My car
>>>has even "fixed itself" on occasion. Amazing. Can't fix its #2
>>>cylinder though...
>>>
>>>John D.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:<3F5FF968.A88ACF6E@spam.now>...
>>>
>>>
>>>>"John D." wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder
>>>>>with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds
>>>>>and it's been that way for about 4 years now!
>>>>>
>>>>>Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973
>>>>>Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured
>>>>>engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car
>>>>>like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably
>>>>>REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty
>>>>>well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and
>>>>>restore the car at some point if possible.
>>>>
>>>>That's fine for such an old car. All you loose is some power and loss of
>>>>mileage. However, for a more modern car such as the one under consideration in
>>>>this thread, the low compression will lead to excessive emissions due to
>>>>incompletely burned fuel making it difficult if not impossible to pass an
>>>>emissions test. Moreover, this will likely also cause the catalytic converter
>>>>to overheat and shorten its life. The incompletely burned fuel could also wash
>>>>the rings of oil on that cylinder leading to greater wear.
>>>>
>>>>Eric
>>>

 

Thanks guys - I keep reaching for chemical solutions... Engine restore
will help me with the scored pistons right? I wonder how to find someone
with a REAL manual that will tell me the target compression. The
Chilton's that I've found in a local library don't seem to have the numbers.

-D

John D. wrote:
> Meld,
>
> Glad you're just cheap instead of poor...there's enough of us poor
> folks already! I want to save up, too, not for a house but for an
> older "classic" Class A RV for full-timing it. Don't like apartment
> living, don't want a house at this point in my life.
>
> As for emissions checks here in TX, they ARE tough, but cars 25 years
> old are exempt...safety inspection only for the oldies. Besides, the
> car doesn't smoke so it's not a noticable problem but still, not sure
> what the cause is.
>
> As for your case, try Eric's test, but you may not know for sure until
> you look inside...either by using one of those endoscopes
> (camera-probe through the spark plug hole, preferred) or taking the
> head off (a job in itself). If a piece of valve or ring broke off,
> your cylinder walls are probably scored pretty well.
>
> Good luck,
>
> John D.
>
>
>
>
> meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<3F614119.1010800@yahoo.com>...
>
>>No - I'm not poor just "cheap" well... actually saving up for the house
>>addition 8-)
>>
>>I'm still bombing around in this thing. I'm about to fill up and assess
>>the milage to see how much raw gas is going by. My last few tanks were
>>37.4,37.2,37.7,40.2,34.1 (the problem happened at the tail end of the
>>last tank) It is interesting how at highway speeds you can't tell there
>>is anything wrong. Going up a hill from a stop is very rough. The
>>frequency and amount of shaking seems to shift around...
>>
>>What's a good theory? A piece of valve broke off? or maybe a piece of
>>ring? and stuff gets plugged in there and that's how it could "fix" itself?
>>
>>If the emmissions test 'round here had any teeth in it I wouldn't have
>>been able to buy this car in the first place. This would have been a
>>good thing! The guy who signed the inspection sticker had the valves
>>done and just glanced at the cylinder and declared it "In great shape"
>>he didn't check compression... OK so I'm learning.
>>
>>The big question is: I had since checked compression to be 140-145 on
>>all 4 when it was burning oil... so Is this in spec? If so, what do you
>>have to do to make sure you've got an OK engine? A leakdown test?
>>
>>-D
>>
>>
>>
>>John D. wrote:
>>
>>>Eric,
>>>
>>>I didn't say it was "fine" for ANY car -- it isn't -- I'm just poor.
>>>
>>>But maybe the original poster is NOT poor...he should get it fixed as
>>>you suggest.
>>>
>>>I was just stating what a car can do even though it's not 100%. My car
>>>has even "fixed itself" on occasion. Amazing. Can't fix its #2
>>>cylinder though...
>>>
>>>John D.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Eric <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:<3F5FF968.A88ACF6E@spam.now>...
>>>
>>>
>>>>"John D." wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Yes, it still gets you -- and me -- "around" even with one cylinder
>>>>>with low compression...in my case it's #2 cylinder which has 27 pounds
>>>>>and it's been that way for about 4 years now!
>>>>>
>>>>>Why don't I get it fixed? For one thing, try to find another 1973
>>>>>Datsun 1200 engine in an auto salvage yard or even a remanufactured
>>>>>engine somewhere...the A12 engine isn't evenlisted on such an old car
>>>>>like this one, or, try to find parts for rebuilding an A12. Probably
>>>>>REALLY expensive even if I DID find an engine. Besides, it runs pretty
>>>>>well considering, but yes, I DO plan to get it rebuilt somehow and
>>>>>restore the car at some point if possible.
>>>>
>>>>That's fine for such an old car. All you loose is some power and loss of
>>>>mileage. However, for a more modern car such as the one under consideration in
>>>>this thread, the low compression will lead to excessive emissions due to
>>>>incompletely burned fuel making it difficult if not impossible to pass an
>>>>emissions test. Moreover, this will likely also cause the catalytic converter
>>>>to overheat and shorten its life. The incompletely burned fuel could also wash
>>>>the rings of oil on that cylinder leading to greater wear.
>>>>
>>>>Eric
>>>

 

meld_b wrote:
>
> Thanks guys - I keep reaching for chemical solutions... Engine restore
> will help me with the scored pistons right?

Most of the "mechanic in a can" solutions are wishful thinking. Although I'm
not familiar with this specific product, I would be suspicious any product that
claimed it could fix scored pistons and cylinders.

> I wonder how to find someone with a REAL manual that will tell me the target
> compression. The Chilton's that I've found in a local library don't seem to
> have the numbers.

250 rpm and wide open throttle
nominal 185 psi
minimum 135 psi
max variation 28 psi

 

meld_b wrote:
>
> Thanks guys - I keep reaching for chemical solutions... Engine restore
> will help me with the scored pistons right?

Most of the "mechanic in a can" solutions are wishful thinking. Although I'm
not familiar with this specific product, I would be suspicious any product that
claimed it could fix scored pistons and cylinders.

> I wonder how to find someone with a REAL manual that will tell me the target
> compression. The Chilton's that I've found in a local library don't seem to
> have the numbers.

250 rpm and wide open throttle
nominal 185 psi
minimum 135 psi
max variation 28 psi

 

meld_b wrote:
>
> Thanks guys - I keep reaching for chemical solutions... Engine restore
> will help me with the scored pistons right?

Most of the "mechanic in a can" solutions are wishful thinking. Although I'm
not familiar with this specific product, I would be suspicious any product that
claimed it could fix scored pistons and cylinders.

> I wonder how to find someone with a REAL manual that will tell me the target
> compression. The Chilton's that I've found in a local library don't seem to
> have the numbers.

250 rpm and wide open throttle
nominal 185 psi
minimum 135 psi
max variation 28 psi

 

Thanks - I'm learning here... Is 250 RPM what the starter spins? What
does the wide open throttle do for you? I'm thinking these numbers are
what you use to compare to when you have a four plugs pulled and you put
the compression checker in each cylinder and have someone crank it? So
they need to floor it too!?

I measured 140-145 on all 4 before the incident and it was burning oil
like crazy ... so I must have done something wrong... or loss of
compression isn't why this was burning oil. The PCV was checked and
thought to be fine. I feel like I need to learn this lesson before I buy
the next car.

-D

Eric wrote:
> meld_b wrote:
>
>>Thanks guys - I keep reaching for chemical solutions... Engine restore
>>will help me with the scored pistons right?
>
>
> Most of the "mechanic in a can" solutions are wishful thinking. Although I'm
> not familiar with this specific product, I would be suspicious any product that
> claimed it could fix scored pistons and cylinders.
>
>
>>I wonder how to find someone with a REAL manual that will tell me the target
>>compression. The Chilton's that I've found in a local library don't seem to
>>have the numbers.
>
>
> 250 rpm and wide open throttle
> nominal 185 psi
> minimum 135 psi
> max variation 28 psi

 

Thanks - I'm learning here... Is 250 RPM what the starter spins? What
does the wide open throttle do for you? I'm thinking these numbers are
what you use to compare to when you have a four plugs pulled and you put
the compression checker in each cylinder and have someone crank it? So
they need to floor it too!?

I measured 140-145 on all 4 before the incident and it was burning oil
like crazy ... so I must have done something wrong... or loss of
compression isn't why this was burning oil. The PCV was checked and
thought to be fine. I feel like I need to learn this lesson before I buy
the next car.

-D

Eric wrote:
> meld_b wrote:
>
>>Thanks guys - I keep reaching for chemical solutions... Engine restore
>>will help me with the scored pistons right?
>
>
> Most of the "mechanic in a can" solutions are wishful thinking. Although I'm
> not familiar with this specific product, I would be suspicious any product that
> claimed it could fix scored pistons and cylinders.
>
>
>>I wonder how to find someone with a REAL manual that will tell me the target
>>compression. The Chilton's that I've found in a local library don't seem to
>>have the numbers.
>
>
> 250 rpm and wide open throttle
> nominal 185 psi
> minimum 135 psi
> max variation 28 psi

 

Thanks - I'm learning here... Is 250 RPM what the starter spins? What
does the wide open throttle do for you? I'm thinking these numbers are
what you use to compare to when you have a four plugs pulled and you put
the compression checker in each cylinder and have someone crank it? So
they need to floor it too!?

I measured 140-145 on all 4 before the incident and it was burning oil
like crazy ... so I must have done something wrong... or loss of
compression isn't why this was burning oil. The PCV was checked and
thought to be fine. I feel like I need to learn this lesson before I buy
the next car.

-D

Eric wrote:
> meld_b wrote:
>
>>Thanks guys - I keep reaching for chemical solutions... Engine restore
>>will help me with the scored pistons right?
>
>
> Most of the "mechanic in a can" solutions are wishful thinking. Although I'm
> not familiar with this specific product, I would be suspicious any product that
> claimed it could fix scored pistons and cylinders.
>
>
>>I wonder how to find someone with a REAL manual that will tell me the target
>>compression. The Chilton's that I've found in a local library don't seem to
>>have the numbers.
>
>
> 250 rpm and wide open throttle
> nominal 185 psi
> minimum 135 psi
> max variation 28 psi

 

It is a red flag to me if someone says thay have done the valves on a
car with high mileage. Engines tend to age gracefully if well cared
for, and that means the top and bottom end age together. So, when you
do the top end and restore full sealing power and compression to the
engine, it can spell trouble for the older bottom end, leading to ring
and cylinder failures.

If thi car is in excellent shape otherwise, look around for a short
block and put it in. Can't be more than $1200-$1300 total.



On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 03:05:06 GMT, meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote:

>Thanks - I'm learning here... Is 250 RPM what the starter spins? What
>does the wide open throttle do for you? I'm thinking these numbers are
>what you use to compare to when you have a four plugs pulled and you put
>the compression checker in each cylinder and have someone crank it? So
>they need to floor it too!?
>
>I measured 140-145 on all 4 before the incident and it was burning oil
>like crazy ... so I must have done something wrong... or loss of
>compression isn't why this was burning oil. The PCV was checked and
>thought to be fine. I feel like I need to learn this lesson before I buy
>the next car.
>
>-D
>
>Eric wrote:
>> meld_b wrote:
>>
>>>Thanks guys - I keep reaching for chemical solutions... Engine restore
>>>will help me with the scored pistons right?
>>
>>
>> Most of the "mechanic in a can" solutions are wishful thinking. Although I'm
>> not familiar with this specific product, I would be suspicious any product that
>> claimed it could fix scored pistons and cylinders.
>>
>>
>>>I wonder how to find someone with a REAL manual that will tell me the target
>>>compression. The Chilton's that I've found in a local library don't seem to
>>>have the numbers.
>>
>>
>> 250 rpm and wide open throttle
>> nominal 185 psi
>> minimum 135 psi
>> max variation 28 psi

 

It is a red flag to me if someone says thay have done the valves on a
car with high mileage. Engines tend to age gracefully if well cared
for, and that means the top and bottom end age together. So, when you
do the top end and restore full sealing power and compression to the
engine, it can spell trouble for the older bottom end, leading to ring
and cylinder failures.

If thi car is in excellent shape otherwise, look around for a short
block and put it in. Can't be more than $1200-$1300 total.



On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 03:05:06 GMT, meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote:

>Thanks - I'm learning here... Is 250 RPM what the starter spins? What
>does the wide open throttle do for you? I'm thinking these numbers are
>what you use to compare to when you have a four plugs pulled and you put
>the compression checker in each cylinder and have someone crank it? So
>they need to floor it too!?
>
>I measured 140-145 on all 4 before the incident and it was burning oil
>like crazy ... so I must have done something wrong... or loss of
>compression isn't why this was burning oil. The PCV was checked and
>thought to be fine. I feel like I need to learn this lesson before I buy
>the next car.
>
>-D
>
>Eric wrote:
>> meld_b wrote:
>>
>>>Thanks guys - I keep reaching for chemical solutions... Engine restore
>>>will help me with the scored pistons right?
>>
>>
>> Most of the "mechanic in a can" solutions are wishful thinking. Although I'm
>> not familiar with this specific product, I would be suspicious any product that
>> claimed it could fix scored pistons and cylinders.
>>
>>
>>>I wonder how to find someone with a REAL manual that will tell me the target
>>>compression. The Chilton's that I've found in a local library don't seem to
>>>have the numbers.
>>
>>
>> 250 rpm and wide open throttle
>> nominal 185 psi
>> minimum 135 psi
>> max variation 28 psi

 

It is a red flag to me if someone says thay have done the valves on a
car with high mileage. Engines tend to age gracefully if well cared
for, and that means the top and bottom end age together. So, when you
do the top end and restore full sealing power and compression to the
engine, it can spell trouble for the older bottom end, leading to ring
and cylinder failures.

If thi car is in excellent shape otherwise, look around for a short
block and put it in. Can't be more than $1200-$1300 total.



On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 03:05:06 GMT, meld_b <meld_b@yahoo.com> wrote:

>Thanks - I'm learning here... Is 250 RPM what the starter spins? What
>does the wide open throttle do for you? I'm thinking these numbers are
>what you use to compare to when you have a four plugs pulled and you put
>the compression checker in each cylinder and have someone crank it? So
>they need to floor it too!?
>
>I measured 140-145 on all 4 before the incident and it was burning oil
>like crazy ... so I must have done something wrong... or loss of
>compression isn't why this was burning oil. The PCV was checked and
>thought to be fine. I feel like I need to learn this lesson before I buy
>the next car.
>
>-D
>
>Eric wrote:
>> meld_b wrote:
>>
>>>Thanks guys - I keep reaching for chemical solutions... Engine restore
>>>will help me with the scored pistons right?
>>
>>
>> Most of the "mechanic in a can" solutions are wishful thinking. Although I'm
>> not familiar with this specific product, I would be suspicious any product that
>> claimed it could fix scored pistons and cylinders.
>>
>>
>>>I wonder how to find someone with a REAL manual that will tell me the target
>>>compression. The Chilton's that I've found in a local library don't seem to
>>>have the numbers.
>>
>>
>> 250 rpm and wide open throttle
>> nominal 185 psi
>> minimum 135 psi
>> max variation 28 psi