Didnt want to heat that, i suspect my ball joints may be past thier
prime, but it is not cheap to replace them. On a car this old i may
just deal with it until i can get a newer car. To put any money into
diagnosing a problem seems overpriced and takeing it to the dealer is
like throughing money on a fire, but at least they wouls have a good
chance of fixing it.

On Sat, 04 Oct 2003 18:58:16 GMT, "E. Meyer" <e.meyer@ieeeNOSPAM.org>
wrote:

>On 10/3/03 11:41 PM, in article 3f7e4c12.25616154@news.easynews.com,
>"Austin" <spacewars@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> At about 170,000 miles I pulled my rotors and had them turned because
>> of a high speed vibration. They had never been turned before. After a
>> month they developed a vibration when braking but only around 30mps +-
>> 10mph. Not above or below. At some point the car developed a pull to
>> the right I could also hear a strange metal sounding rubbing which
>> seemed to be on the passenger side. It is a pain to replace the rotors
>> so I put off pulling them. I looked at other possibilities but could
>> not explain the problem. I eventually gave up and pulled the rotors
>> again. At this time I replaced all the bushings with poly bushings.
>> The bushings looked bad so I figured why not. I fixed a problem with
>> one of the shocks. Repacked the CV joint boots, they were about to
>> crack, and bought brand new Napa life time warranty rotors. I also
>> replaced the proportioning valve because it was leaking. For about a
>> month all was good, and then I noticed a high speed vibration. After
>> an alignment the car still pulled and was getting worse. I rebuilt the
>> calipers but the car still pulled so I figured it was not a caliper
>> sticking. The noise seems to have come back but seems to be coming
>> from the driver side this time. Everything looks fine, the master
>> cylinder is new and the calipers and drums have new seals. Pedal feel
>> is better then ever dew to the new proportioning valve.
>>
>> I have no idea why the rotors keep warping or why the car pulls. PLEAS
>> HELP
>>
>
>I had a similar symptom on my '00 Acura TL. Turned out the problem was
>caused by a bad upper ball joint on the one of the front wheels. A side
>effect was that the extra heat from the wobbly ball joint also caused the
>rotor to overheat and warp. I suggest you check that all the suspension
>components are in spec.