I would take a close look at the light bulb sockets on the left side.
Look for anything stuck inside them or for chaffed wires at the back of
them.

One strategy could be to connect a test light at the left sensor socket
(after removing the sensor) and jam the brake pedal down with a 2x4 (or
your spouse / girlfriend / kids, either will do). Connect the test light
between the wire to the left brake lights and the wire to the brake
pedal switch. Remove all the brake light bulbs on the left side. As
long as you have a short the test light should light up. Now start
wiggling wires and see if you can make the test light turn off. When it
does, you have found your short.

You can use a multimeter set to "Ohms" or "continuity test" instead of a
test light, or you can use any 12V light bulb (brake lights are
typically 21W, so if you use a bulb rated 21W or less you should not
cause any damage). As long as there is a short the Ohmmeter would read a
few ohms only. With the short gone you should read dozens of kOhms at
least.

Cracker Jacks wrote:
>
> Yes I placed the left brake sensor in the right hand spot (no sensor in left
> spot) and fuse did not blow. That tells me both sensors are good.
>
> "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> news:3FBEAFD6.E11AE3B4@junkmail.com...
> > Each brake sensor should have one wire that goes to the brake pedal
> > switch, one wire that goes to the brake lights, one wire that goes to
> > the dash indicator light and most likely also a ground wire.
> >
> > I have the circuit diagram for the '97 Accord (which uses only 1 brake
> > light sensor) and the wire colors for that year are:
> >
> > Green with white stripe to brake pedal switch
> > Green with orange stripe to left brake light
> > Green with red stripe to right brake light
> > White with green stripe to dash indicator light
> > Black to ground.
> >
> > What you could try is to remove the left brake light sensor and connect
> > the wire from the brake pedal switch (GRN/WHT in 1997) directly to the
> > wire to the left brake lights (GRN/ORN in 1997). If the fuse still
> > blows, the short is somewhere between the left brake sensor socket and
> > the left brake light.
> >
> > If the fuse does not blow, the short is most likely in the brake light
> > sensor itself. You could try to replace it, or simply connect together
> > the two aforementioned wires permanently (brake lights would work, dash
> > warning light would not).
> >
> > Perhaps a simpler test is to remove both brake light sensors and then
> > plug the one from the right side (which you verified works) into the
> > socket on the left side. If the fuse stays intact, the sensor that used
> > to sit on the left side is bad. Fuse blows, the short is between the
> > sensor and the left brake lights.
> >
> > At least it is narrowed way down at this point!
> >
> >
> >
> > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > >
> > > ok heres an update. I tested the brake switch it's good. I removed all
> bulbs
> > > in the back, fuse still blew. I disconnected both brake light sensors in
> the
> > > back. Fuse did not blow. Light did not come on and gear shifted out of
> park
> > > fine. Then I reconnected the right brake sensor fuse did not blow,
> Light
> > > did not come on and gear shifted out of park fine. Then I reconnected
> the
> > > left sensor, the fuse blows, light came on and will not leave park. Bad
> > > socket(s), wires, and/or sensor on the left side wouldn't you think?
> > >
> > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:3FBE9093.27A1B5CF@junkmail.com...
> > > > The short answer is that tracking down a short is cam be a royal pain
> in
> > > > the butt. In your case we know it is somewhere between the switch at
> the
> > > > brake pedal and the brake lights in the back. I would start by
> removing
> > > > all the brake light bulbs and see if the fuse still blows when you
> step
> > > > on the brakes. Typically there are TWO brake light bulbs on each side
> > > > plus the high mount one. Sometimes when bulbs fail they become dead
> > > > shorts. If the fuse stays intact when you press on the brake with all
> > > > bulbs removed, I would just replace with all new bulbs.
> > > >
> > > > Also check the wiring where it connects to the tail lights. See if the
> > > > insulation is worn off so that bare copper can rub against the sheet
> > > > metal or anything else that is grounded.
> > > >
> > > > Any time the wire harness passes through a hole in the sheet metal
> there
> > > > is potential for problems. Checked for nicks in the insulation at such
> > > > points.
> > > >
> > > > Lastly, if your car has the warning light for broken brake bulbs, that
> > > > would be a place to check as well. I believe the control module for
> that
> > > > feature is mounted somewhere in the trunk.
> > > >
> > > > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I placed the fuse in and it remained intact until I press the brake,
> > > then
> > > > > the fuse blew. Short somewhere, trying to track it down. Whats the
> best
> > > way
> > > > > to locate a short?
> > > > >
> > > > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > > news:3FBD99C9.2F585C36@junkmail.com...
> > > > > > > Yes odd isn't it? I am wondering if light was wired wrong.
> There
> > > is a
> > > > > fuse
> > > > > > > in the engine compartment (20amp) that keeps blowing. The fuse
> is
> > > > > labeled
> > > > > > > Stop, Horn, (Seat belt retractors) Is the stop portion brake
> > > system?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I believe it is. With that fuse blown, the shift lock system won't
> > > work
> > > > > > either. Does the fuse blow at random, or only when you are
> stepping on
> > > > > > the brakes?

 

I would take a close look at the light bulb sockets on the left side.
Look for anything stuck inside them or for chaffed wires at the back of
them.

One strategy could be to connect a test light at the left sensor socket
(after removing the sensor) and jam the brake pedal down with a 2x4 (or
your spouse / girlfriend / kids, either will do). Connect the test light
between the wire to the left brake lights and the wire to the brake
pedal switch. Remove all the brake light bulbs on the left side. As
long as you have a short the test light should light up. Now start
wiggling wires and see if you can make the test light turn off. When it
does, you have found your short.

You can use a multimeter set to "Ohms" or "continuity test" instead of a
test light, or you can use any 12V light bulb (brake lights are
typically 21W, so if you use a bulb rated 21W or less you should not
cause any damage). As long as there is a short the Ohmmeter would read a
few ohms only. With the short gone you should read dozens of kOhms at
least.

Cracker Jacks wrote:
>
> Yes I placed the left brake sensor in the right hand spot (no sensor in left
> spot) and fuse did not blow. That tells me both sensors are good.
>
> "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> news:3FBEAFD6.E11AE3B4@junkmail.com...
> > Each brake sensor should have one wire that goes to the brake pedal
> > switch, one wire that goes to the brake lights, one wire that goes to
> > the dash indicator light and most likely also a ground wire.
> >
> > I have the circuit diagram for the '97 Accord (which uses only 1 brake
> > light sensor) and the wire colors for that year are:
> >
> > Green with white stripe to brake pedal switch
> > Green with orange stripe to left brake light
> > Green with red stripe to right brake light
> > White with green stripe to dash indicator light
> > Black to ground.
> >
> > What you could try is to remove the left brake light sensor and connect
> > the wire from the brake pedal switch (GRN/WHT in 1997) directly to the
> > wire to the left brake lights (GRN/ORN in 1997). If the fuse still
> > blows, the short is somewhere between the left brake sensor socket and
> > the left brake light.
> >
> > If the fuse does not blow, the short is most likely in the brake light
> > sensor itself. You could try to replace it, or simply connect together
> > the two aforementioned wires permanently (brake lights would work, dash
> > warning light would not).
> >
> > Perhaps a simpler test is to remove both brake light sensors and then
> > plug the one from the right side (which you verified works) into the
> > socket on the left side. If the fuse stays intact, the sensor that used
> > to sit on the left side is bad. Fuse blows, the short is between the
> > sensor and the left brake lights.
> >
> > At least it is narrowed way down at this point!
> >
> >
> >
> > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > >
> > > ok heres an update. I tested the brake switch it's good. I removed all
> bulbs
> > > in the back, fuse still blew. I disconnected both brake light sensors in
> the
> > > back. Fuse did not blow. Light did not come on and gear shifted out of
> park
> > > fine. Then I reconnected the right brake sensor fuse did not blow,
> Light
> > > did not come on and gear shifted out of park fine. Then I reconnected
> the
> > > left sensor, the fuse blows, light came on and will not leave park. Bad
> > > socket(s), wires, and/or sensor on the left side wouldn't you think?
> > >
> > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:3FBE9093.27A1B5CF@junkmail.com...
> > > > The short answer is that tracking down a short is cam be a royal pain
> in
> > > > the butt. In your case we know it is somewhere between the switch at
> the
> > > > brake pedal and the brake lights in the back. I would start by
> removing
> > > > all the brake light bulbs and see if the fuse still blows when you
> step
> > > > on the brakes. Typically there are TWO brake light bulbs on each side
> > > > plus the high mount one. Sometimes when bulbs fail they become dead
> > > > shorts. If the fuse stays intact when you press on the brake with all
> > > > bulbs removed, I would just replace with all new bulbs.
> > > >
> > > > Also check the wiring where it connects to the tail lights. See if the
> > > > insulation is worn off so that bare copper can rub against the sheet
> > > > metal or anything else that is grounded.
> > > >
> > > > Any time the wire harness passes through a hole in the sheet metal
> there
> > > > is potential for problems. Checked for nicks in the insulation at such
> > > > points.
> > > >
> > > > Lastly, if your car has the warning light for broken brake bulbs, that
> > > > would be a place to check as well. I believe the control module for
> that
> > > > feature is mounted somewhere in the trunk.
> > > >
> > > > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I placed the fuse in and it remained intact until I press the brake,
> > > then
> > > > > the fuse blew. Short somewhere, trying to track it down. Whats the
> best
> > > way
> > > > > to locate a short?
> > > > >
> > > > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > > news:3FBD99C9.2F585C36@junkmail.com...
> > > > > > > Yes odd isn't it? I am wondering if light was wired wrong.
> There
> > > is a
> > > > > fuse
> > > > > > > in the engine compartment (20amp) that keeps blowing. The fuse
> is
> > > > > labeled
> > > > > > > Stop, Horn, (Seat belt retractors) Is the stop portion brake
> > > system?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I believe it is. With that fuse blown, the shift lock system won't
> > > work
> > > > > > either. Does the fuse blow at random, or only when you are
> stepping on
> > > > > > the brakes?

 

I would take a close look at the light bulb sockets on the left side.
Look for anything stuck inside them or for chaffed wires at the back of
them.

One strategy could be to connect a test light at the left sensor socket
(after removing the sensor) and jam the brake pedal down with a 2x4 (or
your spouse / girlfriend / kids, either will do). Connect the test light
between the wire to the left brake lights and the wire to the brake
pedal switch. Remove all the brake light bulbs on the left side. As
long as you have a short the test light should light up. Now start
wiggling wires and see if you can make the test light turn off. When it
does, you have found your short.

You can use a multimeter set to "Ohms" or "continuity test" instead of a
test light, or you can use any 12V light bulb (brake lights are
typically 21W, so if you use a bulb rated 21W or less you should not
cause any damage). As long as there is a short the Ohmmeter would read a
few ohms only. With the short gone you should read dozens of kOhms at
least.

Cracker Jacks wrote:
>
> Yes I placed the left brake sensor in the right hand spot (no sensor in left
> spot) and fuse did not blow. That tells me both sensors are good.
>
> "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> news:3FBEAFD6.E11AE3B4@junkmail.com...
> > Each brake sensor should have one wire that goes to the brake pedal
> > switch, one wire that goes to the brake lights, one wire that goes to
> > the dash indicator light and most likely also a ground wire.
> >
> > I have the circuit diagram for the '97 Accord (which uses only 1 brake
> > light sensor) and the wire colors for that year are:
> >
> > Green with white stripe to brake pedal switch
> > Green with orange stripe to left brake light
> > Green with red stripe to right brake light
> > White with green stripe to dash indicator light
> > Black to ground.
> >
> > What you could try is to remove the left brake light sensor and connect
> > the wire from the brake pedal switch (GRN/WHT in 1997) directly to the
> > wire to the left brake lights (GRN/ORN in 1997). If the fuse still
> > blows, the short is somewhere between the left brake sensor socket and
> > the left brake light.
> >
> > If the fuse does not blow, the short is most likely in the brake light
> > sensor itself. You could try to replace it, or simply connect together
> > the two aforementioned wires permanently (brake lights would work, dash
> > warning light would not).
> >
> > Perhaps a simpler test is to remove both brake light sensors and then
> > plug the one from the right side (which you verified works) into the
> > socket on the left side. If the fuse stays intact, the sensor that used
> > to sit on the left side is bad. Fuse blows, the short is between the
> > sensor and the left brake lights.
> >
> > At least it is narrowed way down at this point!
> >
> >
> >
> > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > >
> > > ok heres an update. I tested the brake switch it's good. I removed all
> bulbs
> > > in the back, fuse still blew. I disconnected both brake light sensors in
> the
> > > back. Fuse did not blow. Light did not come on and gear shifted out of
> park
> > > fine. Then I reconnected the right brake sensor fuse did not blow,
> Light
> > > did not come on and gear shifted out of park fine. Then I reconnected
> the
> > > left sensor, the fuse blows, light came on and will not leave park. Bad
> > > socket(s), wires, and/or sensor on the left side wouldn't you think?
> > >
> > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:3FBE9093.27A1B5CF@junkmail.com...
> > > > The short answer is that tracking down a short is cam be a royal pain
> in
> > > > the butt. In your case we know it is somewhere between the switch at
> the
> > > > brake pedal and the brake lights in the back. I would start by
> removing
> > > > all the brake light bulbs and see if the fuse still blows when you
> step
> > > > on the brakes. Typically there are TWO brake light bulbs on each side
> > > > plus the high mount one. Sometimes when bulbs fail they become dead
> > > > shorts. If the fuse stays intact when you press on the brake with all
> > > > bulbs removed, I would just replace with all new bulbs.
> > > >
> > > > Also check the wiring where it connects to the tail lights. See if the
> > > > insulation is worn off so that bare copper can rub against the sheet
> > > > metal or anything else that is grounded.
> > > >
> > > > Any time the wire harness passes through a hole in the sheet metal
> there
> > > > is potential for problems. Checked for nicks in the insulation at such
> > > > points.
> > > >
> > > > Lastly, if your car has the warning light for broken brake bulbs, that
> > > > would be a place to check as well. I believe the control module for
> that
> > > > feature is mounted somewhere in the trunk.
> > > >
> > > > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I placed the fuse in and it remained intact until I press the brake,
> > > then
> > > > > the fuse blew. Short somewhere, trying to track it down. Whats the
> best
> > > way
> > > > > to locate a short?
> > > > >
> > > > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > > news:3FBD99C9.2F585C36@junkmail.com...
> > > > > > > Yes odd isn't it? I am wondering if light was wired wrong.
> There
> > > is a
> > > > > fuse
> > > > > > > in the engine compartment (20amp) that keeps blowing. The fuse
> is
> > > > > labeled
> > > > > > > Stop, Horn, (Seat belt retractors) Is the stop portion brake
> > > system?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I believe it is. With that fuse blown, the shift lock system won't
> > > work
> > > > > > either. Does the fuse blow at random, or only when you are
> stepping on
> > > > > > the brakes?

 

I would take a close look at the light bulb sockets on the left side.
Look for anything stuck inside them or for chaffed wires at the back of
them.

One strategy could be to connect a test light at the left sensor socket
(after removing the sensor) and jam the brake pedal down with a 2x4 (or
your spouse / girlfriend / kids, either will do). Connect the test light
between the wire to the left brake lights and the wire to the brake
pedal switch. Remove all the brake light bulbs on the left side. As
long as you have a short the test light should light up. Now start
wiggling wires and see if you can make the test light turn off. When it
does, you have found your short.

You can use a multimeter set to "Ohms" or "continuity test" instead of a
test light, or you can use any 12V light bulb (brake lights are
typically 21W, so if you use a bulb rated 21W or less you should not
cause any damage). As long as there is a short the Ohmmeter would read a
few ohms only. With the short gone you should read dozens of kOhms at
least.

Cracker Jacks wrote:
>
> Yes I placed the left brake sensor in the right hand spot (no sensor in left
> spot) and fuse did not blow. That tells me both sensors are good.
>
> "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> news:3FBEAFD6.E11AE3B4@junkmail.com...
> > Each brake sensor should have one wire that goes to the brake pedal
> > switch, one wire that goes to the brake lights, one wire that goes to
> > the dash indicator light and most likely also a ground wire.
> >
> > I have the circuit diagram for the '97 Accord (which uses only 1 brake
> > light sensor) and the wire colors for that year are:
> >
> > Green with white stripe to brake pedal switch
> > Green with orange stripe to left brake light
> > Green with red stripe to right brake light
> > White with green stripe to dash indicator light
> > Black to ground.
> >
> > What you could try is to remove the left brake light sensor and connect
> > the wire from the brake pedal switch (GRN/WHT in 1997) directly to the
> > wire to the left brake lights (GRN/ORN in 1997). If the fuse still
> > blows, the short is somewhere between the left brake sensor socket and
> > the left brake light.
> >
> > If the fuse does not blow, the short is most likely in the brake light
> > sensor itself. You could try to replace it, or simply connect together
> > the two aforementioned wires permanently (brake lights would work, dash
> > warning light would not).
> >
> > Perhaps a simpler test is to remove both brake light sensors and then
> > plug the one from the right side (which you verified works) into the
> > socket on the left side. If the fuse stays intact, the sensor that used
> > to sit on the left side is bad. Fuse blows, the short is between the
> > sensor and the left brake lights.
> >
> > At least it is narrowed way down at this point!
> >
> >
> >
> > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > >
> > > ok heres an update. I tested the brake switch it's good. I removed all
> bulbs
> > > in the back, fuse still blew. I disconnected both brake light sensors in
> the
> > > back. Fuse did not blow. Light did not come on and gear shifted out of
> park
> > > fine. Then I reconnected the right brake sensor fuse did not blow,
> Light
> > > did not come on and gear shifted out of park fine. Then I reconnected
> the
> > > left sensor, the fuse blows, light came on and will not leave park. Bad
> > > socket(s), wires, and/or sensor on the left side wouldn't you think?
> > >
> > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:3FBE9093.27A1B5CF@junkmail.com...
> > > > The short answer is that tracking down a short is cam be a royal pain
> in
> > > > the butt. In your case we know it is somewhere between the switch at
> the
> > > > brake pedal and the brake lights in the back. I would start by
> removing
> > > > all the brake light bulbs and see if the fuse still blows when you
> step
> > > > on the brakes. Typically there are TWO brake light bulbs on each side
> > > > plus the high mount one. Sometimes when bulbs fail they become dead
> > > > shorts. If the fuse stays intact when you press on the brake with all
> > > > bulbs removed, I would just replace with all new bulbs.
> > > >
> > > > Also check the wiring where it connects to the tail lights. See if the
> > > > insulation is worn off so that bare copper can rub against the sheet
> > > > metal or anything else that is grounded.
> > > >
> > > > Any time the wire harness passes through a hole in the sheet metal
> there
> > > > is potential for problems. Checked for nicks in the insulation at such
> > > > points.
> > > >
> > > > Lastly, if your car has the warning light for broken brake bulbs, that
> > > > would be a place to check as well. I believe the control module for
> that
> > > > feature is mounted somewhere in the trunk.
> > > >
> > > > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I placed the fuse in and it remained intact until I press the brake,
> > > then
> > > > > the fuse blew. Short somewhere, trying to track it down. Whats the
> best
> > > way
> > > > > to locate a short?
> > > > >
> > > > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > > news:3FBD99C9.2F585C36@junkmail.com...
> > > > > > > Yes odd isn't it? I am wondering if light was wired wrong.
> There
> > > is a
> > > > > fuse
> > > > > > > in the engine compartment (20amp) that keeps blowing. The fuse
> is
> > > > > labeled
> > > > > > > Stop, Horn, (Seat belt retractors) Is the stop portion brake
> > > system?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I believe it is. With that fuse blown, the shift lock system won't
> > > work
> > > > > > either. Does the fuse blow at random, or only when you are
> stepping on
> > > > > > the brakes?

 

I placed the right sensor in the left spot and the fuse blew. I would say
both sensors are good. With ignition key on I am showing voltage at one of
the pins on the left sensor plug. No pins on the right sensor plug show any
voltage. With the brake switched pressed I get voltage at an additional pin
on the left sensor plug. I do not understand why I am getting voltage back
on the left sensor plug when the brake light switch is not active. Could you
email me at crackerjacksnospamhere@verizon.net (remove the nospamhere part)
and I will send a copy of (what I think) is the correct schematic for that
area of this verhicle. I have done a breif look over on the wires but I do
not see anything that looks like damaged wires ect.


"Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
news:3FBEBDC6.7D0CAF19@junkmail.com...
> I would take a close look at the light bulb sockets on the left side.
> Look for anything stuck inside them or for chaffed wires at the back of
> them.
>
> One strategy could be to connect a test light at the left sensor socket
> (after removing the sensor) and jam the brake pedal down with a 2x4 (or
> your spouse / girlfriend / kids, either will do). Connect the test light
> between the wire to the left brake lights and the wire to the brake
> pedal switch. Remove all the brake light bulbs on the left side. As
> long as you have a short the test light should light up. Now start
> wiggling wires and see if you can make the test light turn off. When it
> does, you have found your short.
>
> You can use a multimeter set to "Ohms" or "continuity test" instead of a
> test light, or you can use any 12V light bulb (brake lights are
> typically 21W, so if you use a bulb rated 21W or less you should not
> cause any damage). As long as there is a short the Ohmmeter would read a
> few ohms only. With the short gone you should read dozens of kOhms at
> least.
>
> Cracker Jacks wrote:
> >
> > Yes I placed the left brake sensor in the right hand spot (no sensor in
left
> > spot) and fuse did not blow. That tells me both sensors are good.
> >
> > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:3FBEAFD6.E11AE3B4@junkmail.com...
> > > Each brake sensor should have one wire that goes to the brake pedal
> > > switch, one wire that goes to the brake lights, one wire that goes to
> > > the dash indicator light and most likely also a ground wire.
> > >
> > > I have the circuit diagram for the '97 Accord (which uses only 1 brake
> > > light sensor) and the wire colors for that year are:
> > >
> > > Green with white stripe to brake pedal switch
> > > Green with orange stripe to left brake light
> > > Green with red stripe to right brake light
> > > White with green stripe to dash indicator light
> > > Black to ground.
> > >
> > > What you could try is to remove the left brake light sensor and
connect
> > > the wire from the brake pedal switch (GRN/WHT in 1997) directly to the
> > > wire to the left brake lights (GRN/ORN in 1997). If the fuse still
> > > blows, the short is somewhere between the left brake sensor socket and
> > > the left brake light.
> > >
> > > If the fuse does not blow, the short is most likely in the brake light
> > > sensor itself. You could try to replace it, or simply connect together
> > > the two aforementioned wires permanently (brake lights would work,
dash
> > > warning light would not).
> > >
> > > Perhaps a simpler test is to remove both brake light sensors and then
> > > plug the one from the right side (which you verified works) into the
> > > socket on the left side. If the fuse stays intact, the sensor that
used
> > > to sit on the left side is bad. Fuse blows, the short is between the
> > > sensor and the left brake lights.
> > >
> > > At least it is narrowed way down at this point!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > > >
> > > > ok heres an update. I tested the brake switch it's good. I removed
all
> > bulbs
> > > > in the back, fuse still blew. I disconnected both brake light
sensors in
> > the
> > > > back. Fuse did not blow. Light did not come on and gear shifted out
of
> > park
> > > > fine. Then I reconnected the right brake sensor fuse did not blow,
> > Light
> > > > did not come on and gear shifted out of park fine. Then I
reconnected
> > the
> > > > left sensor, the fuse blows, light came on and will not leave park.
Bad
> > > > socket(s), wires, and/or sensor on the left side wouldn't you think?
> > > >
> > > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:3FBE9093.27A1B5CF@junkmail.com...
> > > > > The short answer is that tracking down a short is cam be a royal
pain
> > in
> > > > > the butt. In your case we know it is somewhere between the switch
at
> > the
> > > > > brake pedal and the brake lights in the back. I would start by
> > removing
> > > > > all the brake light bulbs and see if the fuse still blows when you
> > step
> > > > > on the brakes. Typically there are TWO brake light bulbs on each
side
> > > > > plus the high mount one. Sometimes when bulbs fail they become
dead
> > > > > shorts. If the fuse stays intact when you press on the brake with
all
> > > > > bulbs removed, I would just replace with all new bulbs.
> > > > >
> > > > > Also check the wiring where it connects to the tail lights. See if
the
> > > > > insulation is worn off so that bare copper can rub against the
sheet
> > > > > metal or anything else that is grounded.
> > > > >
> > > > > Any time the wire harness passes through a hole in the sheet metal
> > there
> > > > > is potential for problems. Checked for nicks in the insulation at
such
> > > > > points.
> > > > >
> > > > > Lastly, if your car has the warning light for broken brake bulbs,
that
> > > > > would be a place to check as well. I believe the control module
for
> > that
> > > > > feature is mounted somewhere in the trunk.
> > > > >
> > > > > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I placed the fuse in and it remained intact until I press the
brake,
> > > > then
> > > > > > the fuse blew. Short somewhere, trying to track it down. Whats
the
> > best
> > > > way
> > > > > > to locate a short?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:3FBD99C9.2F585C36@junkmail.com...
> > > > > > > > Yes odd isn't it? I am wondering if light was wired wrong.
> > There
> > > > is a
> > > > > > fuse
> > > > > > > > in the engine compartment (20amp) that keeps blowing. The
fuse
> > is
> > > > > > labeled
> > > > > > > > Stop, Horn, (Seat belt retractors) Is the stop portion
brake
> > > > system?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I believe it is. With that fuse blown, the shift lock system
won't
> > > > work
> > > > > > > either. Does the fuse blow at random, or only when you are
> > stepping on
> > > > > > > the brakes?

 

I placed the right sensor in the left spot and the fuse blew. I would say
both sensors are good. With ignition key on I am showing voltage at one of
the pins on the left sensor plug. No pins on the right sensor plug show any
voltage. With the brake switched pressed I get voltage at an additional pin
on the left sensor plug. I do not understand why I am getting voltage back
on the left sensor plug when the brake light switch is not active. Could you
email me at crackerjacksnospamhere@verizon.net (remove the nospamhere part)
and I will send a copy of (what I think) is the correct schematic for that
area of this verhicle. I have done a breif look over on the wires but I do
not see anything that looks like damaged wires ect.


"Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
news:3FBEBDC6.7D0CAF19@junkmail.com...
> I would take a close look at the light bulb sockets on the left side.
> Look for anything stuck inside them or for chaffed wires at the back of
> them.
>
> One strategy could be to connect a test light at the left sensor socket
> (after removing the sensor) and jam the brake pedal down with a 2x4 (or
> your spouse / girlfriend / kids, either will do). Connect the test light
> between the wire to the left brake lights and the wire to the brake
> pedal switch. Remove all the brake light bulbs on the left side. As
> long as you have a short the test light should light up. Now start
> wiggling wires and see if you can make the test light turn off. When it
> does, you have found your short.
>
> You can use a multimeter set to "Ohms" or "continuity test" instead of a
> test light, or you can use any 12V light bulb (brake lights are
> typically 21W, so if you use a bulb rated 21W or less you should not
> cause any damage). As long as there is a short the Ohmmeter would read a
> few ohms only. With the short gone you should read dozens of kOhms at
> least.
>
> Cracker Jacks wrote:
> >
> > Yes I placed the left brake sensor in the right hand spot (no sensor in
left
> > spot) and fuse did not blow. That tells me both sensors are good.
> >
> > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:3FBEAFD6.E11AE3B4@junkmail.com...
> > > Each brake sensor should have one wire that goes to the brake pedal
> > > switch, one wire that goes to the brake lights, one wire that goes to
> > > the dash indicator light and most likely also a ground wire.
> > >
> > > I have the circuit diagram for the '97 Accord (which uses only 1 brake
> > > light sensor) and the wire colors for that year are:
> > >
> > > Green with white stripe to brake pedal switch
> > > Green with orange stripe to left brake light
> > > Green with red stripe to right brake light
> > > White with green stripe to dash indicator light
> > > Black to ground.
> > >
> > > What you could try is to remove the left brake light sensor and
connect
> > > the wire from the brake pedal switch (GRN/WHT in 1997) directly to the
> > > wire to the left brake lights (GRN/ORN in 1997). If the fuse still
> > > blows, the short is somewhere between the left brake sensor socket and
> > > the left brake light.
> > >
> > > If the fuse does not blow, the short is most likely in the brake light
> > > sensor itself. You could try to replace it, or simply connect together
> > > the two aforementioned wires permanently (brake lights would work,
dash
> > > warning light would not).
> > >
> > > Perhaps a simpler test is to remove both brake light sensors and then
> > > plug the one from the right side (which you verified works) into the
> > > socket on the left side. If the fuse stays intact, the sensor that
used
> > > to sit on the left side is bad. Fuse blows, the short is between the
> > > sensor and the left brake lights.
> > >
> > > At least it is narrowed way down at this point!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > > >
> > > > ok heres an update. I tested the brake switch it's good. I removed
all
> > bulbs
> > > > in the back, fuse still blew. I disconnected both brake light
sensors in
> > the
> > > > back. Fuse did not blow. Light did not come on and gear shifted out
of
> > park
> > > > fine. Then I reconnected the right brake sensor fuse did not blow,
> > Light
> > > > did not come on and gear shifted out of park fine. Then I
reconnected
> > the
> > > > left sensor, the fuse blows, light came on and will not leave park.
Bad
> > > > socket(s), wires, and/or sensor on the left side wouldn't you think?
> > > >
> > > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:3FBE9093.27A1B5CF@junkmail.com...
> > > > > The short answer is that tracking down a short is cam be a royal
pain
> > in
> > > > > the butt. In your case we know it is somewhere between the switch
at
> > the
> > > > > brake pedal and the brake lights in the back. I would start by
> > removing
> > > > > all the brake light bulbs and see if the fuse still blows when you
> > step
> > > > > on the brakes. Typically there are TWO brake light bulbs on each
side
> > > > > plus the high mount one. Sometimes when bulbs fail they become
dead
> > > > > shorts. If the fuse stays intact when you press on the brake with
all
> > > > > bulbs removed, I would just replace with all new bulbs.
> > > > >
> > > > > Also check the wiring where it connects to the tail lights. See if
the
> > > > > insulation is worn off so that bare copper can rub against the
sheet
> > > > > metal or anything else that is grounded.
> > > > >
> > > > > Any time the wire harness passes through a hole in the sheet metal
> > there
> > > > > is potential for problems. Checked for nicks in the insulation at
such
> > > > > points.
> > > > >
> > > > > Lastly, if your car has the warning light for broken brake bulbs,
that
> > > > > would be a place to check as well. I believe the control module
for
> > that
> > > > > feature is mounted somewhere in the trunk.
> > > > >
> > > > > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I placed the fuse in and it remained intact until I press the
brake,
> > > > then
> > > > > > the fuse blew. Short somewhere, trying to track it down. Whats
the
> > best
> > > > way
> > > > > > to locate a short?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:3FBD99C9.2F585C36@junkmail.com...
> > > > > > > > Yes odd isn't it? I am wondering if light was wired wrong.
> > There
> > > > is a
> > > > > > fuse
> > > > > > > > in the engine compartment (20amp) that keeps blowing. The
fuse
> > is
> > > > > > labeled
> > > > > > > > Stop, Horn, (Seat belt retractors) Is the stop portion
brake
> > > > system?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I believe it is. With that fuse blown, the shift lock system
won't
> > > > work
> > > > > > > either. Does the fuse blow at random, or only when you are
> > stepping on
> > > > > > > the brakes?

 

I placed the right sensor in the left spot and the fuse blew. I would say
both sensors are good. With ignition key on I am showing voltage at one of
the pins on the left sensor plug. No pins on the right sensor plug show any
voltage. With the brake switched pressed I get voltage at an additional pin
on the left sensor plug. I do not understand why I am getting voltage back
on the left sensor plug when the brake light switch is not active. Could you
email me at crackerjacksnospamhere@verizon.net (remove the nospamhere part)
and I will send a copy of (what I think) is the correct schematic for that
area of this verhicle. I have done a breif look over on the wires but I do
not see anything that looks like damaged wires ect.


"Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
news:3FBEBDC6.7D0CAF19@junkmail.com...
> I would take a close look at the light bulb sockets on the left side.
> Look for anything stuck inside them or for chaffed wires at the back of
> them.
>
> One strategy could be to connect a test light at the left sensor socket
> (after removing the sensor) and jam the brake pedal down with a 2x4 (or
> your spouse / girlfriend / kids, either will do). Connect the test light
> between the wire to the left brake lights and the wire to the brake
> pedal switch. Remove all the brake light bulbs on the left side. As
> long as you have a short the test light should light up. Now start
> wiggling wires and see if you can make the test light turn off. When it
> does, you have found your short.
>
> You can use a multimeter set to "Ohms" or "continuity test" instead of a
> test light, or you can use any 12V light bulb (brake lights are
> typically 21W, so if you use a bulb rated 21W or less you should not
> cause any damage). As long as there is a short the Ohmmeter would read a
> few ohms only. With the short gone you should read dozens of kOhms at
> least.
>
> Cracker Jacks wrote:
> >
> > Yes I placed the left brake sensor in the right hand spot (no sensor in
left
> > spot) and fuse did not blow. That tells me both sensors are good.
> >
> > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:3FBEAFD6.E11AE3B4@junkmail.com...
> > > Each brake sensor should have one wire that goes to the brake pedal
> > > switch, one wire that goes to the brake lights, one wire that goes to
> > > the dash indicator light and most likely also a ground wire.
> > >
> > > I have the circuit diagram for the '97 Accord (which uses only 1 brake
> > > light sensor) and the wire colors for that year are:
> > >
> > > Green with white stripe to brake pedal switch
> > > Green with orange stripe to left brake light
> > > Green with red stripe to right brake light
> > > White with green stripe to dash indicator light
> > > Black to ground.
> > >
> > > What you could try is to remove the left brake light sensor and
connect
> > > the wire from the brake pedal switch (GRN/WHT in 1997) directly to the
> > > wire to the left brake lights (GRN/ORN in 1997). If the fuse still
> > > blows, the short is somewhere between the left brake sensor socket and
> > > the left brake light.
> > >
> > > If the fuse does not blow, the short is most likely in the brake light
> > > sensor itself. You could try to replace it, or simply connect together
> > > the two aforementioned wires permanently (brake lights would work,
dash
> > > warning light would not).
> > >
> > > Perhaps a simpler test is to remove both brake light sensors and then
> > > plug the one from the right side (which you verified works) into the
> > > socket on the left side. If the fuse stays intact, the sensor that
used
> > > to sit on the left side is bad. Fuse blows, the short is between the
> > > sensor and the left brake lights.
> > >
> > > At least it is narrowed way down at this point!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > > >
> > > > ok heres an update. I tested the brake switch it's good. I removed
all
> > bulbs
> > > > in the back, fuse still blew. I disconnected both brake light
sensors in
> > the
> > > > back. Fuse did not blow. Light did not come on and gear shifted out
of
> > park
> > > > fine. Then I reconnected the right brake sensor fuse did not blow,
> > Light
> > > > did not come on and gear shifted out of park fine. Then I
reconnected
> > the
> > > > left sensor, the fuse blows, light came on and will not leave park.
Bad
> > > > socket(s), wires, and/or sensor on the left side wouldn't you think?
> > > >
> > > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:3FBE9093.27A1B5CF@junkmail.com...
> > > > > The short answer is that tracking down a short is cam be a royal
pain
> > in
> > > > > the butt. In your case we know it is somewhere between the switch
at
> > the
> > > > > brake pedal and the brake lights in the back. I would start by
> > removing
> > > > > all the brake light bulbs and see if the fuse still blows when you
> > step
> > > > > on the brakes. Typically there are TWO brake light bulbs on each
side
> > > > > plus the high mount one. Sometimes when bulbs fail they become
dead
> > > > > shorts. If the fuse stays intact when you press on the brake with
all
> > > > > bulbs removed, I would just replace with all new bulbs.
> > > > >
> > > > > Also check the wiring where it connects to the tail lights. See if
the
> > > > > insulation is worn off so that bare copper can rub against the
sheet
> > > > > metal or anything else that is grounded.
> > > > >
> > > > > Any time the wire harness passes through a hole in the sheet metal
> > there
> > > > > is potential for problems. Checked for nicks in the insulation at
such
> > > > > points.
> > > > >
> > > > > Lastly, if your car has the warning light for broken brake bulbs,
that
> > > > > would be a place to check as well. I believe the control module
for
> > that
> > > > > feature is mounted somewhere in the trunk.
> > > > >
> > > > > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I placed the fuse in and it remained intact until I press the
brake,
> > > > then
> > > > > > the fuse blew. Short somewhere, trying to track it down. Whats
the
> > best
> > > > way
> > > > > > to locate a short?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:3FBD99C9.2F585C36@junkmail.com...
> > > > > > > > Yes odd isn't it? I am wondering if light was wired wrong.
> > There
> > > > is a
> > > > > > fuse
> > > > > > > > in the engine compartment (20amp) that keeps blowing. The
fuse
> > is
> > > > > > labeled
> > > > > > > > Stop, Horn, (Seat belt retractors) Is the stop portion
brake
> > > > system?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I believe it is. With that fuse blown, the shift lock system
won't
> > > > work
> > > > > > > either. Does the fuse blow at random, or only when you are
> > stepping on
> > > > > > > the brakes?

 

I placed the right sensor in the left spot and the fuse blew. I would say
both sensors are good. With ignition key on I am showing voltage at one of
the pins on the left sensor plug. No pins on the right sensor plug show any
voltage. With the brake switched pressed I get voltage at an additional pin
on the left sensor plug. I do not understand why I am getting voltage back
on the left sensor plug when the brake light switch is not active. Could you
email me at crackerjacksnospamhere@verizon.net (remove the nospamhere part)
and I will send a copy of (what I think) is the correct schematic for that
area of this verhicle. I have done a breif look over on the wires but I do
not see anything that looks like damaged wires ect.


"Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
news:3FBEBDC6.7D0CAF19@junkmail.com...
> I would take a close look at the light bulb sockets on the left side.
> Look for anything stuck inside them or for chaffed wires at the back of
> them.
>
> One strategy could be to connect a test light at the left sensor socket
> (after removing the sensor) and jam the brake pedal down with a 2x4 (or
> your spouse / girlfriend / kids, either will do). Connect the test light
> between the wire to the left brake lights and the wire to the brake
> pedal switch. Remove all the brake light bulbs on the left side. As
> long as you have a short the test light should light up. Now start
> wiggling wires and see if you can make the test light turn off. When it
> does, you have found your short.
>
> You can use a multimeter set to "Ohms" or "continuity test" instead of a
> test light, or you can use any 12V light bulb (brake lights are
> typically 21W, so if you use a bulb rated 21W or less you should not
> cause any damage). As long as there is a short the Ohmmeter would read a
> few ohms only. With the short gone you should read dozens of kOhms at
> least.
>
> Cracker Jacks wrote:
> >
> > Yes I placed the left brake sensor in the right hand spot (no sensor in
left
> > spot) and fuse did not blow. That tells me both sensors are good.
> >
> > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:3FBEAFD6.E11AE3B4@junkmail.com...
> > > Each brake sensor should have one wire that goes to the brake pedal
> > > switch, one wire that goes to the brake lights, one wire that goes to
> > > the dash indicator light and most likely also a ground wire.
> > >
> > > I have the circuit diagram for the '97 Accord (which uses only 1 brake
> > > light sensor) and the wire colors for that year are:
> > >
> > > Green with white stripe to brake pedal switch
> > > Green with orange stripe to left brake light
> > > Green with red stripe to right brake light
> > > White with green stripe to dash indicator light
> > > Black to ground.
> > >
> > > What you could try is to remove the left brake light sensor and
connect
> > > the wire from the brake pedal switch (GRN/WHT in 1997) directly to the
> > > wire to the left brake lights (GRN/ORN in 1997). If the fuse still
> > > blows, the short is somewhere between the left brake sensor socket and
> > > the left brake light.
> > >
> > > If the fuse does not blow, the short is most likely in the brake light
> > > sensor itself. You could try to replace it, or simply connect together
> > > the two aforementioned wires permanently (brake lights would work,
dash
> > > warning light would not).
> > >
> > > Perhaps a simpler test is to remove both brake light sensors and then
> > > plug the one from the right side (which you verified works) into the
> > > socket on the left side. If the fuse stays intact, the sensor that
used
> > > to sit on the left side is bad. Fuse blows, the short is between the
> > > sensor and the left brake lights.
> > >
> > > At least it is narrowed way down at this point!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > > >
> > > > ok heres an update. I tested the brake switch it's good. I removed
all
> > bulbs
> > > > in the back, fuse still blew. I disconnected both brake light
sensors in
> > the
> > > > back. Fuse did not blow. Light did not come on and gear shifted out
of
> > park
> > > > fine. Then I reconnected the right brake sensor fuse did not blow,
> > Light
> > > > did not come on and gear shifted out of park fine. Then I
reconnected
> > the
> > > > left sensor, the fuse blows, light came on and will not leave park.
Bad
> > > > socket(s), wires, and/or sensor on the left side wouldn't you think?
> > > >
> > > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:3FBE9093.27A1B5CF@junkmail.com...
> > > > > The short answer is that tracking down a short is cam be a royal
pain
> > in
> > > > > the butt. In your case we know it is somewhere between the switch
at
> > the
> > > > > brake pedal and the brake lights in the back. I would start by
> > removing
> > > > > all the brake light bulbs and see if the fuse still blows when you
> > step
> > > > > on the brakes. Typically there are TWO brake light bulbs on each
side
> > > > > plus the high mount one. Sometimes when bulbs fail they become
dead
> > > > > shorts. If the fuse stays intact when you press on the brake with
all
> > > > > bulbs removed, I would just replace with all new bulbs.
> > > > >
> > > > > Also check the wiring where it connects to the tail lights. See if
the
> > > > > insulation is worn off so that bare copper can rub against the
sheet
> > > > > metal or anything else that is grounded.
> > > > >
> > > > > Any time the wire harness passes through a hole in the sheet metal
> > there
> > > > > is potential for problems. Checked for nicks in the insulation at
such
> > > > > points.
> > > > >
> > > > > Lastly, if your car has the warning light for broken brake bulbs,
that
> > > > > would be a place to check as well. I believe the control module
for
> > that
> > > > > feature is mounted somewhere in the trunk.
> > > > >
> > > > > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I placed the fuse in and it remained intact until I press the
brake,
> > > > then
> > > > > > the fuse blew. Short somewhere, trying to track it down. Whats
the
> > best
> > > > way
> > > > > > to locate a short?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:3FBD99C9.2F585C36@junkmail.com...
> > > > > > > > Yes odd isn't it? I am wondering if light was wired wrong.
> > There
> > > > is a
> > > > > > fuse
> > > > > > > > in the engine compartment (20amp) that keeps blowing. The
fuse
> > is
> > > > > > labeled
> > > > > > > > Stop, Horn, (Seat belt retractors) Is the stop portion
brake
> > > > system?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I believe it is. With that fuse blown, the shift lock system
won't
> > > > work
> > > > > > > either. Does the fuse blow at random, or only when you are
> > stepping on
> > > > > > > the brakes?

 

I have a factory manual for the'87 Accord with the electrical diagram
if it is needed. bob

 

I have a factory manual for the'87 Accord with the electrical diagram
if it is needed. bob

 

I have a factory manual for the'87 Accord with the electrical diagram
if it is needed. bob

 

I have a factory manual for the'87 Accord with the electrical diagram
if it is needed. bob

 

Thanks will keep that in mind. I am gona change that sensor and see what
happens.


"N.E.Ohio Bob" <rgstroud@neo.rr.com> wrote in message
news:3FBFDF92.BDDE2EC9@neo.rr.com...
> I have a factory manual for the'87 Accord with the electrical diagram
> if it is needed. bob

 

Thanks will keep that in mind. I am gona change that sensor and see what
happens.


"N.E.Ohio Bob" <rgstroud@neo.rr.com> wrote in message
news:3FBFDF92.BDDE2EC9@neo.rr.com...
> I have a factory manual for the'87 Accord with the electrical diagram
> if it is needed. bob

 

Thanks will keep that in mind. I am gona change that sensor and see what
happens.


"N.E.Ohio Bob" <rgstroud@neo.rr.com> wrote in message
news:3FBFDF92.BDDE2EC9@neo.rr.com...
> I have a factory manual for the'87 Accord with the electrical diagram
> if it is needed. bob