Left sensor is good I placed it in the right sensor spot...fuse did not
blow.


"Cracker Jacks" <cjacks@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:jrxvb.2519$b91.1970@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
> ok heres an update. I tested the brake switch it's good. I removed all
bulbs
> in the back, fuse still blew. I disconnected both brake light sensors in
the
> back. Fuse did not blow. Light did not come on and gear shifted out of
park
> fine. Then I reconnected the right brake sensor fuse did not blow, Light
> did not come on and gear shifted out of park fine. Then I reconnected the
> left sensor, the fuse blows, light came on and will not leave park. Bad
> socket(s), wires, and/or sensor on the left side wouldn't you think?
>
> "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> news:3FBE9093.27A1B5CF@junkmail.com...
> > The short answer is that tracking down a short is cam be a royal pain in
> > the butt. In your case we know it is somewhere between the switch at the
> > brake pedal and the brake lights in the back. I would start by removing
> > all the brake light bulbs and see if the fuse still blows when you step
> > on the brakes. Typically there are TWO brake light bulbs on each side
> > plus the high mount one. Sometimes when bulbs fail they become dead
> > shorts. If the fuse stays intact when you press on the brake with all
> > bulbs removed, I would just replace with all new bulbs.
> >
> > Also check the wiring where it connects to the tail lights. See if the
> > insulation is worn off so that bare copper can rub against the sheet
> > metal or anything else that is grounded.
> >
> > Any time the wire harness passes through a hole in the sheet metal there
> > is potential for problems. Checked for nicks in the insulation at such
> > points.
> >
> > Lastly, if your car has the warning light for broken brake bulbs, that
> > would be a place to check as well. I believe the control module for that
> > feature is mounted somewhere in the trunk.
> >
> > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > >
> > > I placed the fuse in and it remained intact until I press the brake,
> then
> > > the fuse blew. Short somewhere, trying to track it down. Whats the
best
> way
> > > to locate a short?
> > >
> > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:3FBD99C9.2F585C36@junkmail.com...
> > > > > Yes odd isn't it? I am wondering if light was wired wrong. There
> is a
> > > fuse
> > > > > in the engine compartment (20amp) that keeps blowing. The fuse is
> > > labeled
> > > > > Stop, Horn, (Seat belt retractors) Is the stop portion brake
> system?
> > > >
> > > > I believe it is. With that fuse blown, the shift lock system won't
> work
> > > > either. Does the fuse blow at random, or only when you are stepping
on
> > > > the brakes?
>
>

 

Left sensor is good I placed it in the right sensor spot...fuse did not
blow.


"Cracker Jacks" <cjacks@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:jrxvb.2519$b91.1970@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
> ok heres an update. I tested the brake switch it's good. I removed all
bulbs
> in the back, fuse still blew. I disconnected both brake light sensors in
the
> back. Fuse did not blow. Light did not come on and gear shifted out of
park
> fine. Then I reconnected the right brake sensor fuse did not blow, Light
> did not come on and gear shifted out of park fine. Then I reconnected the
> left sensor, the fuse blows, light came on and will not leave park. Bad
> socket(s), wires, and/or sensor on the left side wouldn't you think?
>
> "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> news:3FBE9093.27A1B5CF@junkmail.com...
> > The short answer is that tracking down a short is cam be a royal pain in
> > the butt. In your case we know it is somewhere between the switch at the
> > brake pedal and the brake lights in the back. I would start by removing
> > all the brake light bulbs and see if the fuse still blows when you step
> > on the brakes. Typically there are TWO brake light bulbs on each side
> > plus the high mount one. Sometimes when bulbs fail they become dead
> > shorts. If the fuse stays intact when you press on the brake with all
> > bulbs removed, I would just replace with all new bulbs.
> >
> > Also check the wiring where it connects to the tail lights. See if the
> > insulation is worn off so that bare copper can rub against the sheet
> > metal or anything else that is grounded.
> >
> > Any time the wire harness passes through a hole in the sheet metal there
> > is potential for problems. Checked for nicks in the insulation at such
> > points.
> >
> > Lastly, if your car has the warning light for broken brake bulbs, that
> > would be a place to check as well. I believe the control module for that
> > feature is mounted somewhere in the trunk.
> >
> > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > >
> > > I placed the fuse in and it remained intact until I press the brake,
> then
> > > the fuse blew. Short somewhere, trying to track it down. Whats the
best
> way
> > > to locate a short?
> > >
> > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:3FBD99C9.2F585C36@junkmail.com...
> > > > > Yes odd isn't it? I am wondering if light was wired wrong. There
> is a
> > > fuse
> > > > > in the engine compartment (20amp) that keeps blowing. The fuse is
> > > labeled
> > > > > Stop, Horn, (Seat belt retractors) Is the stop portion brake
> system?
> > > >
> > > > I believe it is. With that fuse blown, the shift lock system won't
> work
> > > > either. Does the fuse blow at random, or only when you are stepping
on
> > > > the brakes?
>
>

 

Left sensor is good I placed it in the right sensor spot...fuse did not
blow.


"Cracker Jacks" <cjacks@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:jrxvb.2519$b91.1970@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
> ok heres an update. I tested the brake switch it's good. I removed all
bulbs
> in the back, fuse still blew. I disconnected both brake light sensors in
the
> back. Fuse did not blow. Light did not come on and gear shifted out of
park
> fine. Then I reconnected the right brake sensor fuse did not blow, Light
> did not come on and gear shifted out of park fine. Then I reconnected the
> left sensor, the fuse blows, light came on and will not leave park. Bad
> socket(s), wires, and/or sensor on the left side wouldn't you think?
>
> "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> news:3FBE9093.27A1B5CF@junkmail.com...
> > The short answer is that tracking down a short is cam be a royal pain in
> > the butt. In your case we know it is somewhere between the switch at the
> > brake pedal and the brake lights in the back. I would start by removing
> > all the brake light bulbs and see if the fuse still blows when you step
> > on the brakes. Typically there are TWO brake light bulbs on each side
> > plus the high mount one. Sometimes when bulbs fail they become dead
> > shorts. If the fuse stays intact when you press on the brake with all
> > bulbs removed, I would just replace with all new bulbs.
> >
> > Also check the wiring where it connects to the tail lights. See if the
> > insulation is worn off so that bare copper can rub against the sheet
> > metal or anything else that is grounded.
> >
> > Any time the wire harness passes through a hole in the sheet metal there
> > is potential for problems. Checked for nicks in the insulation at such
> > points.
> >
> > Lastly, if your car has the warning light for broken brake bulbs, that
> > would be a place to check as well. I believe the control module for that
> > feature is mounted somewhere in the trunk.
> >
> > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > >
> > > I placed the fuse in and it remained intact until I press the brake,
> then
> > > the fuse blew. Short somewhere, trying to track it down. Whats the
best
> way
> > > to locate a short?
> > >
> > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:3FBD99C9.2F585C36@junkmail.com...
> > > > > Yes odd isn't it? I am wondering if light was wired wrong. There
> is a
> > > fuse
> > > > > in the engine compartment (20amp) that keeps blowing. The fuse is
> > > labeled
> > > > > Stop, Horn, (Seat belt retractors) Is the stop portion brake
> system?
> > > >
> > > > I believe it is. With that fuse blown, the shift lock system won't
> work
> > > > either. Does the fuse blow at random, or only when you are stepping
on
> > > > the brakes?
>
>

 

Each brake sensor should have one wire that goes to the brake pedal
switch, one wire that goes to the brake lights, one wire that goes to
the dash indicator light and most likely also a ground wire.

I have the circuit diagram for the '97 Accord (which uses only 1 brake
light sensor) and the wire colors for that year are:

Green with white stripe to brake pedal switch
Green with orange stripe to left brake light
Green with red stripe to right brake light
White with green stripe to dash indicator light
Black to ground.

What you could try is to remove the left brake light sensor and connect
the wire from the brake pedal switch (GRN/WHT in 1997) directly to the
wire to the left brake lights (GRN/ORN in 1997). If the fuse still
blows, the short is somewhere between the left brake sensor socket and
the left brake light.

If the fuse does not blow, the short is most likely in the brake light
sensor itself. You could try to replace it, or simply connect together
the two aforementioned wires permanently (brake lights would work, dash
warning light would not).

Perhaps a simpler test is to remove both brake light sensors and then
plug the one from the right side (which you verified works) into the
socket on the left side. If the fuse stays intact, the sensor that used
to sit on the left side is bad. Fuse blows, the short is between the
sensor and the left brake lights.

At least it is narrowed way down at this point!



Cracker Jacks wrote:
>
> ok heres an update. I tested the brake switch it's good. I removed all bulbs
> in the back, fuse still blew. I disconnected both brake light sensors in the
> back. Fuse did not blow. Light did not come on and gear shifted out of park
> fine. Then I reconnected the right brake sensor fuse did not blow, Light
> did not come on and gear shifted out of park fine. Then I reconnected the
> left sensor, the fuse blows, light came on and will not leave park. Bad
> socket(s), wires, and/or sensor on the left side wouldn't you think?
>
> "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> news:3FBE9093.27A1B5CF@junkmail.com...
> > The short answer is that tracking down a short is cam be a royal pain in
> > the butt. In your case we know it is somewhere between the switch at the
> > brake pedal and the brake lights in the back. I would start by removing
> > all the brake light bulbs and see if the fuse still blows when you step
> > on the brakes. Typically there are TWO brake light bulbs on each side
> > plus the high mount one. Sometimes when bulbs fail they become dead
> > shorts. If the fuse stays intact when you press on the brake with all
> > bulbs removed, I would just replace with all new bulbs.
> >
> > Also check the wiring where it connects to the tail lights. See if the
> > insulation is worn off so that bare copper can rub against the sheet
> > metal or anything else that is grounded.
> >
> > Any time the wire harness passes through a hole in the sheet metal there
> > is potential for problems. Checked for nicks in the insulation at such
> > points.
> >
> > Lastly, if your car has the warning light for broken brake bulbs, that
> > would be a place to check as well. I believe the control module for that
> > feature is mounted somewhere in the trunk.
> >
> > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > >
> > > I placed the fuse in and it remained intact until I press the brake,
> then
> > > the fuse blew. Short somewhere, trying to track it down. Whats the best
> way
> > > to locate a short?
> > >
> > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:3FBD99C9.2F585C36@junkmail.com...
> > > > > Yes odd isn't it? I am wondering if light was wired wrong. There
> is a
> > > fuse
> > > > > in the engine compartment (20amp) that keeps blowing. The fuse is
> > > labeled
> > > > > Stop, Horn, (Seat belt retractors) Is the stop portion brake
> system?
> > > >
> > > > I believe it is. With that fuse blown, the shift lock system won't
> work
> > > > either. Does the fuse blow at random, or only when you are stepping on
> > > > the brakes?

 

Each brake sensor should have one wire that goes to the brake pedal
switch, one wire that goes to the brake lights, one wire that goes to
the dash indicator light and most likely also a ground wire.

I have the circuit diagram for the '97 Accord (which uses only 1 brake
light sensor) and the wire colors for that year are:

Green with white stripe to brake pedal switch
Green with orange stripe to left brake light
Green with red stripe to right brake light
White with green stripe to dash indicator light
Black to ground.

What you could try is to remove the left brake light sensor and connect
the wire from the brake pedal switch (GRN/WHT in 1997) directly to the
wire to the left brake lights (GRN/ORN in 1997). If the fuse still
blows, the short is somewhere between the left brake sensor socket and
the left brake light.

If the fuse does not blow, the short is most likely in the brake light
sensor itself. You could try to replace it, or simply connect together
the two aforementioned wires permanently (brake lights would work, dash
warning light would not).

Perhaps a simpler test is to remove both brake light sensors and then
plug the one from the right side (which you verified works) into the
socket on the left side. If the fuse stays intact, the sensor that used
to sit on the left side is bad. Fuse blows, the short is between the
sensor and the left brake lights.

At least it is narrowed way down at this point!



Cracker Jacks wrote:
>
> ok heres an update. I tested the brake switch it's good. I removed all bulbs
> in the back, fuse still blew. I disconnected both brake light sensors in the
> back. Fuse did not blow. Light did not come on and gear shifted out of park
> fine. Then I reconnected the right brake sensor fuse did not blow, Light
> did not come on and gear shifted out of park fine. Then I reconnected the
> left sensor, the fuse blows, light came on and will not leave park. Bad
> socket(s), wires, and/or sensor on the left side wouldn't you think?
>
> "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> news:3FBE9093.27A1B5CF@junkmail.com...
> > The short answer is that tracking down a short is cam be a royal pain in
> > the butt. In your case we know it is somewhere between the switch at the
> > brake pedal and the brake lights in the back. I would start by removing
> > all the brake light bulbs and see if the fuse still blows when you step
> > on the brakes. Typically there are TWO brake light bulbs on each side
> > plus the high mount one. Sometimes when bulbs fail they become dead
> > shorts. If the fuse stays intact when you press on the brake with all
> > bulbs removed, I would just replace with all new bulbs.
> >
> > Also check the wiring where it connects to the tail lights. See if the
> > insulation is worn off so that bare copper can rub against the sheet
> > metal or anything else that is grounded.
> >
> > Any time the wire harness passes through a hole in the sheet metal there
> > is potential for problems. Checked for nicks in the insulation at such
> > points.
> >
> > Lastly, if your car has the warning light for broken brake bulbs, that
> > would be a place to check as well. I believe the control module for that
> > feature is mounted somewhere in the trunk.
> >
> > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > >
> > > I placed the fuse in and it remained intact until I press the brake,
> then
> > > the fuse blew. Short somewhere, trying to track it down. Whats the best
> way
> > > to locate a short?
> > >
> > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:3FBD99C9.2F585C36@junkmail.com...
> > > > > Yes odd isn't it? I am wondering if light was wired wrong. There
> is a
> > > fuse
> > > > > in the engine compartment (20amp) that keeps blowing. The fuse is
> > > labeled
> > > > > Stop, Horn, (Seat belt retractors) Is the stop portion brake
> system?
> > > >
> > > > I believe it is. With that fuse blown, the shift lock system won't
> work
> > > > either. Does the fuse blow at random, or only when you are stepping on
> > > > the brakes?

 

Each brake sensor should have one wire that goes to the brake pedal
switch, one wire that goes to the brake lights, one wire that goes to
the dash indicator light and most likely also a ground wire.

I have the circuit diagram for the '97 Accord (which uses only 1 brake
light sensor) and the wire colors for that year are:

Green with white stripe to brake pedal switch
Green with orange stripe to left brake light
Green with red stripe to right brake light
White with green stripe to dash indicator light
Black to ground.

What you could try is to remove the left brake light sensor and connect
the wire from the brake pedal switch (GRN/WHT in 1997) directly to the
wire to the left brake lights (GRN/ORN in 1997). If the fuse still
blows, the short is somewhere between the left brake sensor socket and
the left brake light.

If the fuse does not blow, the short is most likely in the brake light
sensor itself. You could try to replace it, or simply connect together
the two aforementioned wires permanently (brake lights would work, dash
warning light would not).

Perhaps a simpler test is to remove both brake light sensors and then
plug the one from the right side (which you verified works) into the
socket on the left side. If the fuse stays intact, the sensor that used
to sit on the left side is bad. Fuse blows, the short is between the
sensor and the left brake lights.

At least it is narrowed way down at this point!



Cracker Jacks wrote:
>
> ok heres an update. I tested the brake switch it's good. I removed all bulbs
> in the back, fuse still blew. I disconnected both brake light sensors in the
> back. Fuse did not blow. Light did not come on and gear shifted out of park
> fine. Then I reconnected the right brake sensor fuse did not blow, Light
> did not come on and gear shifted out of park fine. Then I reconnected the
> left sensor, the fuse blows, light came on and will not leave park. Bad
> socket(s), wires, and/or sensor on the left side wouldn't you think?
>
> "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> news:3FBE9093.27A1B5CF@junkmail.com...
> > The short answer is that tracking down a short is cam be a royal pain in
> > the butt. In your case we know it is somewhere between the switch at the
> > brake pedal and the brake lights in the back. I would start by removing
> > all the brake light bulbs and see if the fuse still blows when you step
> > on the brakes. Typically there are TWO brake light bulbs on each side
> > plus the high mount one. Sometimes when bulbs fail they become dead
> > shorts. If the fuse stays intact when you press on the brake with all
> > bulbs removed, I would just replace with all new bulbs.
> >
> > Also check the wiring where it connects to the tail lights. See if the
> > insulation is worn off so that bare copper can rub against the sheet
> > metal or anything else that is grounded.
> >
> > Any time the wire harness passes through a hole in the sheet metal there
> > is potential for problems. Checked for nicks in the insulation at such
> > points.
> >
> > Lastly, if your car has the warning light for broken brake bulbs, that
> > would be a place to check as well. I believe the control module for that
> > feature is mounted somewhere in the trunk.
> >
> > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > >
> > > I placed the fuse in and it remained intact until I press the brake,
> then
> > > the fuse blew. Short somewhere, trying to track it down. Whats the best
> way
> > > to locate a short?
> > >
> > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:3FBD99C9.2F585C36@junkmail.com...
> > > > > Yes odd isn't it? I am wondering if light was wired wrong. There
> is a
> > > fuse
> > > > > in the engine compartment (20amp) that keeps blowing. The fuse is
> > > labeled
> > > > > Stop, Horn, (Seat belt retractors) Is the stop portion brake
> system?
> > > >
> > > > I believe it is. With that fuse blown, the shift lock system won't
> work
> > > > either. Does the fuse blow at random, or only when you are stepping on
> > > > the brakes?

 

Each brake sensor should have one wire that goes to the brake pedal
switch, one wire that goes to the brake lights, one wire that goes to
the dash indicator light and most likely also a ground wire.

I have the circuit diagram for the '97 Accord (which uses only 1 brake
light sensor) and the wire colors for that year are:

Green with white stripe to brake pedal switch
Green with orange stripe to left brake light
Green with red stripe to right brake light
White with green stripe to dash indicator light
Black to ground.

What you could try is to remove the left brake light sensor and connect
the wire from the brake pedal switch (GRN/WHT in 1997) directly to the
wire to the left brake lights (GRN/ORN in 1997). If the fuse still
blows, the short is somewhere between the left brake sensor socket and
the left brake light.

If the fuse does not blow, the short is most likely in the brake light
sensor itself. You could try to replace it, or simply connect together
the two aforementioned wires permanently (brake lights would work, dash
warning light would not).

Perhaps a simpler test is to remove both brake light sensors and then
plug the one from the right side (which you verified works) into the
socket on the left side. If the fuse stays intact, the sensor that used
to sit on the left side is bad. Fuse blows, the short is between the
sensor and the left brake lights.

At least it is narrowed way down at this point!



Cracker Jacks wrote:
>
> ok heres an update. I tested the brake switch it's good. I removed all bulbs
> in the back, fuse still blew. I disconnected both brake light sensors in the
> back. Fuse did not blow. Light did not come on and gear shifted out of park
> fine. Then I reconnected the right brake sensor fuse did not blow, Light
> did not come on and gear shifted out of park fine. Then I reconnected the
> left sensor, the fuse blows, light came on and will not leave park. Bad
> socket(s), wires, and/or sensor on the left side wouldn't you think?
>
> "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> news:3FBE9093.27A1B5CF@junkmail.com...
> > The short answer is that tracking down a short is cam be a royal pain in
> > the butt. In your case we know it is somewhere between the switch at the
> > brake pedal and the brake lights in the back. I would start by removing
> > all the brake light bulbs and see if the fuse still blows when you step
> > on the brakes. Typically there are TWO brake light bulbs on each side
> > plus the high mount one. Sometimes when bulbs fail they become dead
> > shorts. If the fuse stays intact when you press on the brake with all
> > bulbs removed, I would just replace with all new bulbs.
> >
> > Also check the wiring where it connects to the tail lights. See if the
> > insulation is worn off so that bare copper can rub against the sheet
> > metal or anything else that is grounded.
> >
> > Any time the wire harness passes through a hole in the sheet metal there
> > is potential for problems. Checked for nicks in the insulation at such
> > points.
> >
> > Lastly, if your car has the warning light for broken brake bulbs, that
> > would be a place to check as well. I believe the control module for that
> > feature is mounted somewhere in the trunk.
> >
> > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > >
> > > I placed the fuse in and it remained intact until I press the brake,
> then
> > > the fuse blew. Short somewhere, trying to track it down. Whats the best
> way
> > > to locate a short?
> > >
> > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:3FBD99C9.2F585C36@junkmail.com...
> > > > > Yes odd isn't it? I am wondering if light was wired wrong. There
> is a
> > > fuse
> > > > > in the engine compartment (20amp) that keeps blowing. The fuse is
> > > labeled
> > > > > Stop, Horn, (Seat belt retractors) Is the stop portion brake
> system?
> > > >
> > > > I believe it is. With that fuse blown, the shift lock system won't
> work
> > > > either. Does the fuse blow at random, or only when you are stepping on
> > > > the brakes?

 

Cool. Another 15 minutes with your head in the trunk and you'll probably
isolate the problem.

Cracker Jacks wrote:
>
> Left sensor is good I placed it in the right sensor spot...fuse did not
> blow.
>
> "Cracker Jacks" <cjacks@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:jrxvb.2519$b91.1970@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
> > ok heres an update. I tested the brake switch it's good. I removed all
> bulbs
> > in the back, fuse still blew. I disconnected both brake light sensors in
> the
> > back. Fuse did not blow. Light did not come on and gear shifted out of
> park
> > fine. Then I reconnected the right brake sensor fuse did not blow, Light
> > did not come on and gear shifted out of park fine. Then I reconnected the
> > left sensor, the fuse blows, light came on and will not leave park. Bad
> > socket(s), wires, and/or sensor on the left side wouldn't you think?
> >
> > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:3FBE9093.27A1B5CF@junkmail.com...
> > > The short answer is that tracking down a short is cam be a royal pain in
> > > the butt. In your case we know it is somewhere between the switch at the
> > > brake pedal and the brake lights in the back. I would start by removing
> > > all the brake light bulbs and see if the fuse still blows when you step
> > > on the brakes. Typically there are TWO brake light bulbs on each side
> > > plus the high mount one. Sometimes when bulbs fail they become dead
> > > shorts. If the fuse stays intact when you press on the brake with all
> > > bulbs removed, I would just replace with all new bulbs.
> > >
> > > Also check the wiring where it connects to the tail lights. See if the
> > > insulation is worn off so that bare copper can rub against the sheet
> > > metal or anything else that is grounded.
> > >
> > > Any time the wire harness passes through a hole in the sheet metal there
> > > is potential for problems. Checked for nicks in the insulation at such
> > > points.
> > >
> > > Lastly, if your car has the warning light for broken brake bulbs, that
> > > would be a place to check as well. I believe the control module for that
> > > feature is mounted somewhere in the trunk.
> > >
> > > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I placed the fuse in and it remained intact until I press the brake,
> > then
> > > > the fuse blew. Short somewhere, trying to track it down. Whats the
> best
> > way
> > > > to locate a short?
> > > >
> > > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:3FBD99C9.2F585C36@junkmail.com...
> > > > > > Yes odd isn't it? I am wondering if light was wired wrong. There
> > is a
> > > > fuse
> > > > > > in the engine compartment (20amp) that keeps blowing. The fuse is
> > > > labeled
> > > > > > Stop, Horn, (Seat belt retractors) Is the stop portion brake
> > system?
> > > > >
> > > > > I believe it is. With that fuse blown, the shift lock system won't
> > work
> > > > > either. Does the fuse blow at random, or only when you are stepping
> on
> > > > > the brakes?
> >
> >

 

Cool. Another 15 minutes with your head in the trunk and you'll probably
isolate the problem.

Cracker Jacks wrote:
>
> Left sensor is good I placed it in the right sensor spot...fuse did not
> blow.
>
> "Cracker Jacks" <cjacks@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:jrxvb.2519$b91.1970@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
> > ok heres an update. I tested the brake switch it's good. I removed all
> bulbs
> > in the back, fuse still blew. I disconnected both brake light sensors in
> the
> > back. Fuse did not blow. Light did not come on and gear shifted out of
> park
> > fine. Then I reconnected the right brake sensor fuse did not blow, Light
> > did not come on and gear shifted out of park fine. Then I reconnected the
> > left sensor, the fuse blows, light came on and will not leave park. Bad
> > socket(s), wires, and/or sensor on the left side wouldn't you think?
> >
> > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:3FBE9093.27A1B5CF@junkmail.com...
> > > The short answer is that tracking down a short is cam be a royal pain in
> > > the butt. In your case we know it is somewhere between the switch at the
> > > brake pedal and the brake lights in the back. I would start by removing
> > > all the brake light bulbs and see if the fuse still blows when you step
> > > on the brakes. Typically there are TWO brake light bulbs on each side
> > > plus the high mount one. Sometimes when bulbs fail they become dead
> > > shorts. If the fuse stays intact when you press on the brake with all
> > > bulbs removed, I would just replace with all new bulbs.
> > >
> > > Also check the wiring where it connects to the tail lights. See if the
> > > insulation is worn off so that bare copper can rub against the sheet
> > > metal or anything else that is grounded.
> > >
> > > Any time the wire harness passes through a hole in the sheet metal there
> > > is potential for problems. Checked for nicks in the insulation at such
> > > points.
> > >
> > > Lastly, if your car has the warning light for broken brake bulbs, that
> > > would be a place to check as well. I believe the control module for that
> > > feature is mounted somewhere in the trunk.
> > >
> > > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I placed the fuse in and it remained intact until I press the brake,
> > then
> > > > the fuse blew. Short somewhere, trying to track it down. Whats the
> best
> > way
> > > > to locate a short?
> > > >
> > > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:3FBD99C9.2F585C36@junkmail.com...
> > > > > > Yes odd isn't it? I am wondering if light was wired wrong. There
> > is a
> > > > fuse
> > > > > > in the engine compartment (20amp) that keeps blowing. The fuse is
> > > > labeled
> > > > > > Stop, Horn, (Seat belt retractors) Is the stop portion brake
> > system?
> > > > >
> > > > > I believe it is. With that fuse blown, the shift lock system won't
> > work
> > > > > either. Does the fuse blow at random, or only when you are stepping
> on
> > > > > the brakes?
> >
> >

 

Cool. Another 15 minutes with your head in the trunk and you'll probably
isolate the problem.

Cracker Jacks wrote:
>
> Left sensor is good I placed it in the right sensor spot...fuse did not
> blow.
>
> "Cracker Jacks" <cjacks@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:jrxvb.2519$b91.1970@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
> > ok heres an update. I tested the brake switch it's good. I removed all
> bulbs
> > in the back, fuse still blew. I disconnected both brake light sensors in
> the
> > back. Fuse did not blow. Light did not come on and gear shifted out of
> park
> > fine. Then I reconnected the right brake sensor fuse did not blow, Light
> > did not come on and gear shifted out of park fine. Then I reconnected the
> > left sensor, the fuse blows, light came on and will not leave park. Bad
> > socket(s), wires, and/or sensor on the left side wouldn't you think?
> >
> > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:3FBE9093.27A1B5CF@junkmail.com...
> > > The short answer is that tracking down a short is cam be a royal pain in
> > > the butt. In your case we know it is somewhere between the switch at the
> > > brake pedal and the brake lights in the back. I would start by removing
> > > all the brake light bulbs and see if the fuse still blows when you step
> > > on the brakes. Typically there are TWO brake light bulbs on each side
> > > plus the high mount one. Sometimes when bulbs fail they become dead
> > > shorts. If the fuse stays intact when you press on the brake with all
> > > bulbs removed, I would just replace with all new bulbs.
> > >
> > > Also check the wiring where it connects to the tail lights. See if the
> > > insulation is worn off so that bare copper can rub against the sheet
> > > metal or anything else that is grounded.
> > >
> > > Any time the wire harness passes through a hole in the sheet metal there
> > > is potential for problems. Checked for nicks in the insulation at such
> > > points.
> > >
> > > Lastly, if your car has the warning light for broken brake bulbs, that
> > > would be a place to check as well. I believe the control module for that
> > > feature is mounted somewhere in the trunk.
> > >
> > > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I placed the fuse in and it remained intact until I press the brake,
> > then
> > > > the fuse blew. Short somewhere, trying to track it down. Whats the
> best
> > way
> > > > to locate a short?
> > > >
> > > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:3FBD99C9.2F585C36@junkmail.com...
> > > > > > Yes odd isn't it? I am wondering if light was wired wrong. There
> > is a
> > > > fuse
> > > > > > in the engine compartment (20amp) that keeps blowing. The fuse is
> > > > labeled
> > > > > > Stop, Horn, (Seat belt retractors) Is the stop portion brake
> > system?
> > > > >
> > > > > I believe it is. With that fuse blown, the shift lock system won't
> > work
> > > > > either. Does the fuse blow at random, or only when you are stepping
> on
> > > > > the brakes?
> >
> >

 

Cool. Another 15 minutes with your head in the trunk and you'll probably
isolate the problem.

Cracker Jacks wrote:
>
> Left sensor is good I placed it in the right sensor spot...fuse did not
> blow.
>
> "Cracker Jacks" <cjacks@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:jrxvb.2519$b91.1970@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
> > ok heres an update. I tested the brake switch it's good. I removed all
> bulbs
> > in the back, fuse still blew. I disconnected both brake light sensors in
> the
> > back. Fuse did not blow. Light did not come on and gear shifted out of
> park
> > fine. Then I reconnected the right brake sensor fuse did not blow, Light
> > did not come on and gear shifted out of park fine. Then I reconnected the
> > left sensor, the fuse blows, light came on and will not leave park. Bad
> > socket(s), wires, and/or sensor on the left side wouldn't you think?
> >
> > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:3FBE9093.27A1B5CF@junkmail.com...
> > > The short answer is that tracking down a short is cam be a royal pain in
> > > the butt. In your case we know it is somewhere between the switch at the
> > > brake pedal and the brake lights in the back. I would start by removing
> > > all the brake light bulbs and see if the fuse still blows when you step
> > > on the brakes. Typically there are TWO brake light bulbs on each side
> > > plus the high mount one. Sometimes when bulbs fail they become dead
> > > shorts. If the fuse stays intact when you press on the brake with all
> > > bulbs removed, I would just replace with all new bulbs.
> > >
> > > Also check the wiring where it connects to the tail lights. See if the
> > > insulation is worn off so that bare copper can rub against the sheet
> > > metal or anything else that is grounded.
> > >
> > > Any time the wire harness passes through a hole in the sheet metal there
> > > is potential for problems. Checked for nicks in the insulation at such
> > > points.
> > >
> > > Lastly, if your car has the warning light for broken brake bulbs, that
> > > would be a place to check as well. I believe the control module for that
> > > feature is mounted somewhere in the trunk.
> > >
> > > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I placed the fuse in and it remained intact until I press the brake,
> > then
> > > > the fuse blew. Short somewhere, trying to track it down. Whats the
> best
> > way
> > > > to locate a short?
> > > >
> > > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:3FBD99C9.2F585C36@junkmail.com...
> > > > > > Yes odd isn't it? I am wondering if light was wired wrong. There
> > is a
> > > > fuse
> > > > > > in the engine compartment (20amp) that keeps blowing. The fuse is
> > > > labeled
> > > > > > Stop, Horn, (Seat belt retractors) Is the stop portion brake
> > system?
> > > > >
> > > > > I believe it is. With that fuse blown, the shift lock system won't
> > work
> > > > > either. Does the fuse blow at random, or only when you are stepping
> on
> > > > > the brakes?
> >
> >

 

Yes I placed the left brake sensor in the right hand spot (no sensor in left
spot) and fuse did not blow. That tells me both sensors are good.

"Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
news:3FBEAFD6.E11AE3B4@junkmail.com...
> Each brake sensor should have one wire that goes to the brake pedal
> switch, one wire that goes to the brake lights, one wire that goes to
> the dash indicator light and most likely also a ground wire.
>
> I have the circuit diagram for the '97 Accord (which uses only 1 brake
> light sensor) and the wire colors for that year are:
>
> Green with white stripe to brake pedal switch
> Green with orange stripe to left brake light
> Green with red stripe to right brake light
> White with green stripe to dash indicator light
> Black to ground.
>
> What you could try is to remove the left brake light sensor and connect
> the wire from the brake pedal switch (GRN/WHT in 1997) directly to the
> wire to the left brake lights (GRN/ORN in 1997). If the fuse still
> blows, the short is somewhere between the left brake sensor socket and
> the left brake light.
>
> If the fuse does not blow, the short is most likely in the brake light
> sensor itself. You could try to replace it, or simply connect together
> the two aforementioned wires permanently (brake lights would work, dash
> warning light would not).
>
> Perhaps a simpler test is to remove both brake light sensors and then
> plug the one from the right side (which you verified works) into the
> socket on the left side. If the fuse stays intact, the sensor that used
> to sit on the left side is bad. Fuse blows, the short is between the
> sensor and the left brake lights.
>
> At least it is narrowed way down at this point!
>
>
>
> Cracker Jacks wrote:
> >
> > ok heres an update. I tested the brake switch it's good. I removed all
bulbs
> > in the back, fuse still blew. I disconnected both brake light sensors in
the
> > back. Fuse did not blow. Light did not come on and gear shifted out of
park
> > fine. Then I reconnected the right brake sensor fuse did not blow,
Light
> > did not come on and gear shifted out of park fine. Then I reconnected
the
> > left sensor, the fuse blows, light came on and will not leave park. Bad
> > socket(s), wires, and/or sensor on the left side wouldn't you think?
> >
> > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:3FBE9093.27A1B5CF@junkmail.com...
> > > The short answer is that tracking down a short is cam be a royal pain
in
> > > the butt. In your case we know it is somewhere between the switch at
the
> > > brake pedal and the brake lights in the back. I would start by
removing
> > > all the brake light bulbs and see if the fuse still blows when you
step
> > > on the brakes. Typically there are TWO brake light bulbs on each side
> > > plus the high mount one. Sometimes when bulbs fail they become dead
> > > shorts. If the fuse stays intact when you press on the brake with all
> > > bulbs removed, I would just replace with all new bulbs.
> > >
> > > Also check the wiring where it connects to the tail lights. See if the
> > > insulation is worn off so that bare copper can rub against the sheet
> > > metal or anything else that is grounded.
> > >
> > > Any time the wire harness passes through a hole in the sheet metal
there
> > > is potential for problems. Checked for nicks in the insulation at such
> > > points.
> > >
> > > Lastly, if your car has the warning light for broken brake bulbs, that
> > > would be a place to check as well. I believe the control module for
that
> > > feature is mounted somewhere in the trunk.
> > >
> > > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I placed the fuse in and it remained intact until I press the brake,
> > then
> > > > the fuse blew. Short somewhere, trying to track it down. Whats the
best
> > way
> > > > to locate a short?
> > > >
> > > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:3FBD99C9.2F585C36@junkmail.com...
> > > > > > Yes odd isn't it? I am wondering if light was wired wrong.
There
> > is a
> > > > fuse
> > > > > > in the engine compartment (20amp) that keeps blowing. The fuse
is
> > > > labeled
> > > > > > Stop, Horn, (Seat belt retractors) Is the stop portion brake
> > system?
> > > > >
> > > > > I believe it is. With that fuse blown, the shift lock system won't
> > work
> > > > > either. Does the fuse blow at random, or only when you are
stepping on
> > > > > the brakes?

 

Yes I placed the left brake sensor in the right hand spot (no sensor in left
spot) and fuse did not blow. That tells me both sensors are good.

"Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
news:3FBEAFD6.E11AE3B4@junkmail.com...
> Each brake sensor should have one wire that goes to the brake pedal
> switch, one wire that goes to the brake lights, one wire that goes to
> the dash indicator light and most likely also a ground wire.
>
> I have the circuit diagram for the '97 Accord (which uses only 1 brake
> light sensor) and the wire colors for that year are:
>
> Green with white stripe to brake pedal switch
> Green with orange stripe to left brake light
> Green with red stripe to right brake light
> White with green stripe to dash indicator light
> Black to ground.
>
> What you could try is to remove the left brake light sensor and connect
> the wire from the brake pedal switch (GRN/WHT in 1997) directly to the
> wire to the left brake lights (GRN/ORN in 1997). If the fuse still
> blows, the short is somewhere between the left brake sensor socket and
> the left brake light.
>
> If the fuse does not blow, the short is most likely in the brake light
> sensor itself. You could try to replace it, or simply connect together
> the two aforementioned wires permanently (brake lights would work, dash
> warning light would not).
>
> Perhaps a simpler test is to remove both brake light sensors and then
> plug the one from the right side (which you verified works) into the
> socket on the left side. If the fuse stays intact, the sensor that used
> to sit on the left side is bad. Fuse blows, the short is between the
> sensor and the left brake lights.
>
> At least it is narrowed way down at this point!
>
>
>
> Cracker Jacks wrote:
> >
> > ok heres an update. I tested the brake switch it's good. I removed all
bulbs
> > in the back, fuse still blew. I disconnected both brake light sensors in
the
> > back. Fuse did not blow. Light did not come on and gear shifted out of
park
> > fine. Then I reconnected the right brake sensor fuse did not blow,
Light
> > did not come on and gear shifted out of park fine. Then I reconnected
the
> > left sensor, the fuse blows, light came on and will not leave park. Bad
> > socket(s), wires, and/or sensor on the left side wouldn't you think?
> >
> > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:3FBE9093.27A1B5CF@junkmail.com...
> > > The short answer is that tracking down a short is cam be a royal pain
in
> > > the butt. In your case we know it is somewhere between the switch at
the
> > > brake pedal and the brake lights in the back. I would start by
removing
> > > all the brake light bulbs and see if the fuse still blows when you
step
> > > on the brakes. Typically there are TWO brake light bulbs on each side
> > > plus the high mount one. Sometimes when bulbs fail they become dead
> > > shorts. If the fuse stays intact when you press on the brake with all
> > > bulbs removed, I would just replace with all new bulbs.
> > >
> > > Also check the wiring where it connects to the tail lights. See if the
> > > insulation is worn off so that bare copper can rub against the sheet
> > > metal or anything else that is grounded.
> > >
> > > Any time the wire harness passes through a hole in the sheet metal
there
> > > is potential for problems. Checked for nicks in the insulation at such
> > > points.
> > >
> > > Lastly, if your car has the warning light for broken brake bulbs, that
> > > would be a place to check as well. I believe the control module for
that
> > > feature is mounted somewhere in the trunk.
> > >
> > > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I placed the fuse in and it remained intact until I press the brake,
> > then
> > > > the fuse blew. Short somewhere, trying to track it down. Whats the
best
> > way
> > > > to locate a short?
> > > >
> > > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:3FBD99C9.2F585C36@junkmail.com...
> > > > > > Yes odd isn't it? I am wondering if light was wired wrong.
There
> > is a
> > > > fuse
> > > > > > in the engine compartment (20amp) that keeps blowing. The fuse
is
> > > > labeled
> > > > > > Stop, Horn, (Seat belt retractors) Is the stop portion brake
> > system?
> > > > >
> > > > > I believe it is. With that fuse blown, the shift lock system won't
> > work
> > > > > either. Does the fuse blow at random, or only when you are
stepping on
> > > > > the brakes?

 

Yes I placed the left brake sensor in the right hand spot (no sensor in left
spot) and fuse did not blow. That tells me both sensors are good.

"Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
news:3FBEAFD6.E11AE3B4@junkmail.com...
> Each brake sensor should have one wire that goes to the brake pedal
> switch, one wire that goes to the brake lights, one wire that goes to
> the dash indicator light and most likely also a ground wire.
>
> I have the circuit diagram for the '97 Accord (which uses only 1 brake
> light sensor) and the wire colors for that year are:
>
> Green with white stripe to brake pedal switch
> Green with orange stripe to left brake light
> Green with red stripe to right brake light
> White with green stripe to dash indicator light
> Black to ground.
>
> What you could try is to remove the left brake light sensor and connect
> the wire from the brake pedal switch (GRN/WHT in 1997) directly to the
> wire to the left brake lights (GRN/ORN in 1997). If the fuse still
> blows, the short is somewhere between the left brake sensor socket and
> the left brake light.
>
> If the fuse does not blow, the short is most likely in the brake light
> sensor itself. You could try to replace it, or simply connect together
> the two aforementioned wires permanently (brake lights would work, dash
> warning light would not).
>
> Perhaps a simpler test is to remove both brake light sensors and then
> plug the one from the right side (which you verified works) into the
> socket on the left side. If the fuse stays intact, the sensor that used
> to sit on the left side is bad. Fuse blows, the short is between the
> sensor and the left brake lights.
>
> At least it is narrowed way down at this point!
>
>
>
> Cracker Jacks wrote:
> >
> > ok heres an update. I tested the brake switch it's good. I removed all
bulbs
> > in the back, fuse still blew. I disconnected both brake light sensors in
the
> > back. Fuse did not blow. Light did not come on and gear shifted out of
park
> > fine. Then I reconnected the right brake sensor fuse did not blow,
Light
> > did not come on and gear shifted out of park fine. Then I reconnected
the
> > left sensor, the fuse blows, light came on and will not leave park. Bad
> > socket(s), wires, and/or sensor on the left side wouldn't you think?
> >
> > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:3FBE9093.27A1B5CF@junkmail.com...
> > > The short answer is that tracking down a short is cam be a royal pain
in
> > > the butt. In your case we know it is somewhere between the switch at
the
> > > brake pedal and the brake lights in the back. I would start by
removing
> > > all the brake light bulbs and see if the fuse still blows when you
step
> > > on the brakes. Typically there are TWO brake light bulbs on each side
> > > plus the high mount one. Sometimes when bulbs fail they become dead
> > > shorts. If the fuse stays intact when you press on the brake with all
> > > bulbs removed, I would just replace with all new bulbs.
> > >
> > > Also check the wiring where it connects to the tail lights. See if the
> > > insulation is worn off so that bare copper can rub against the sheet
> > > metal or anything else that is grounded.
> > >
> > > Any time the wire harness passes through a hole in the sheet metal
there
> > > is potential for problems. Checked for nicks in the insulation at such
> > > points.
> > >
> > > Lastly, if your car has the warning light for broken brake bulbs, that
> > > would be a place to check as well. I believe the control module for
that
> > > feature is mounted somewhere in the trunk.
> > >
> > > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I placed the fuse in and it remained intact until I press the brake,
> > then
> > > > the fuse blew. Short somewhere, trying to track it down. Whats the
best
> > way
> > > > to locate a short?
> > > >
> > > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:3FBD99C9.2F585C36@junkmail.com...
> > > > > > Yes odd isn't it? I am wondering if light was wired wrong.
There
> > is a
> > > > fuse
> > > > > > in the engine compartment (20amp) that keeps blowing. The fuse
is
> > > > labeled
> > > > > > Stop, Horn, (Seat belt retractors) Is the stop portion brake
> > system?
> > > > >
> > > > > I believe it is. With that fuse blown, the shift lock system won't
> > work
> > > > > either. Does the fuse blow at random, or only when you are
stepping on
> > > > > the brakes?

 

Yes I placed the left brake sensor in the right hand spot (no sensor in left
spot) and fuse did not blow. That tells me both sensors are good.

"Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
news:3FBEAFD6.E11AE3B4@junkmail.com...
> Each brake sensor should have one wire that goes to the brake pedal
> switch, one wire that goes to the brake lights, one wire that goes to
> the dash indicator light and most likely also a ground wire.
>
> I have the circuit diagram for the '97 Accord (which uses only 1 brake
> light sensor) and the wire colors for that year are:
>
> Green with white stripe to brake pedal switch
> Green with orange stripe to left brake light
> Green with red stripe to right brake light
> White with green stripe to dash indicator light
> Black to ground.
>
> What you could try is to remove the left brake light sensor and connect
> the wire from the brake pedal switch (GRN/WHT in 1997) directly to the
> wire to the left brake lights (GRN/ORN in 1997). If the fuse still
> blows, the short is somewhere between the left brake sensor socket and
> the left brake light.
>
> If the fuse does not blow, the short is most likely in the brake light
> sensor itself. You could try to replace it, or simply connect together
> the two aforementioned wires permanently (brake lights would work, dash
> warning light would not).
>
> Perhaps a simpler test is to remove both brake light sensors and then
> plug the one from the right side (which you verified works) into the
> socket on the left side. If the fuse stays intact, the sensor that used
> to sit on the left side is bad. Fuse blows, the short is between the
> sensor and the left brake lights.
>
> At least it is narrowed way down at this point!
>
>
>
> Cracker Jacks wrote:
> >
> > ok heres an update. I tested the brake switch it's good. I removed all
bulbs
> > in the back, fuse still blew. I disconnected both brake light sensors in
the
> > back. Fuse did not blow. Light did not come on and gear shifted out of
park
> > fine. Then I reconnected the right brake sensor fuse did not blow,
Light
> > did not come on and gear shifted out of park fine. Then I reconnected
the
> > left sensor, the fuse blows, light came on and will not leave park. Bad
> > socket(s), wires, and/or sensor on the left side wouldn't you think?
> >
> > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:3FBE9093.27A1B5CF@junkmail.com...
> > > The short answer is that tracking down a short is cam be a royal pain
in
> > > the butt. In your case we know it is somewhere between the switch at
the
> > > brake pedal and the brake lights in the back. I would start by
removing
> > > all the brake light bulbs and see if the fuse still blows when you
step
> > > on the brakes. Typically there are TWO brake light bulbs on each side
> > > plus the high mount one. Sometimes when bulbs fail they become dead
> > > shorts. If the fuse stays intact when you press on the brake with all
> > > bulbs removed, I would just replace with all new bulbs.
> > >
> > > Also check the wiring where it connects to the tail lights. See if the
> > > insulation is worn off so that bare copper can rub against the sheet
> > > metal or anything else that is grounded.
> > >
> > > Any time the wire harness passes through a hole in the sheet metal
there
> > > is potential for problems. Checked for nicks in the insulation at such
> > > points.
> > >
> > > Lastly, if your car has the warning light for broken brake bulbs, that
> > > would be a place to check as well. I believe the control module for
that
> > > feature is mounted somewhere in the trunk.
> > >
> > > Cracker Jacks wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I placed the fuse in and it remained intact until I press the brake,
> > then
> > > > the fuse blew. Short somewhere, trying to track it down. Whats the
best
> > way
> > > > to locate a short?
> > > >
> > > > "Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:3FBD99C9.2F585C36@junkmail.com...
> > > > > > Yes odd isn't it? I am wondering if light was wired wrong.
There
> > is a
> > > > fuse
> > > > > > in the engine compartment (20amp) that keeps blowing. The fuse
is
> > > > labeled
> > > > > > Stop, Horn, (Seat belt retractors) Is the stop portion brake
> > system?
> > > > >
> > > > > I believe it is. With that fuse blown, the shift lock system won't
> > work
> > > > > either. Does the fuse blow at random, or only when you are
stepping on
> > > > > the brakes?