Hello all,

I've had my '88 2dr 5spd for 7 years now and have done almost all my
own work on it. I don't have much experience with suspension work,
however, and now it's time to dive in. I need to replace the front
axles, and I figure I might do the shocks since I'm in there already.
(They don't seem too bad, but they are original.)

Anyhow, I'm having trouble separating the ball joints from the lower
arm. These were replaced a couple of years ago, so I'm trying not to
trash them. The shop manual talks about a gear puller on lugs on the
arm, but they always seem to slip off. I also tried a puller with the
arms seated on the top of the arm, outside the boot. But it's very
difficult to keep the puller straight, and it still seems to pull off
at the slightest provokation. I got frightened I was going to tear
some parts up in a serious way trying this method.

Seems like maybe a lever type ball joint remover might do the trick,
but the biggest jaws on these seem to be about 22mm. Using a caliper,
I found that the smallest jaw that would fit easily without forcing it
under the boot is about 30mm. I'm a bit afraid to try to ram anything
under that boot! Also I hear about various ways to separate the works
with creative use of a hammer, but this seems dubious when separating
good parts.

I know this can't be that impossible, so obviously I'm just missing
the secret trick. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Ryan

 

Ryan Biggs wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> I've had my '88 2dr 5spd for 7 years now and have done almost all my
> own work on it. I don't have much experience with suspension work,
> however, and now it's time to dive in. I need to replace the front
> axles, and I figure I might do the shocks since I'm in there already.
> (They don't seem too bad, but they are original.)
>
> Anyhow, I'm having trouble separating the ball joints from the lower
> arm. These were replaced a couple of years ago, so I'm trying not to
> trash them. The shop manual talks about a gear puller on lugs on the
> arm, but they always seem to slip off. I also tried a puller with the
> arms seated on the top of the arm, outside the boot. But it's very
> difficult to keep the puller straight, and it still seems to pull off
> at the slightest provokation. I got frightened I was going to tear
> some parts up in a serious way trying this method.
>
> Seems like maybe a lever type ball joint remover might do the trick,
> but the biggest jaws on these seem to be about 22mm. Using a caliper,
> I found that the smallest jaw that would fit easily without forcing it
> under the boot is about 30mm. I'm a bit afraid to try to ram anything
> under that boot! Also I hear about various ways to separate the works
> with creative use of a hammer, but this seems dubious when separating
> good parts.
>
> I know this can't be that impossible, so obviously I'm just missing
> the secret trick. Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
> Ryan

This style of puller always seems to work well for me.
http://www.stahlwille.com/0095.jpg

Eric

 

Ryan Biggs <rrbiggs@swbell.net> wrote in
news:fnmg22dmhd8d35vevdnmvivhvqvmclikg9@4ax.com:


>
> I know this can't be that impossible, so obviously I'm just missing
> the secret trick. Any suggestions?
>



I already replied to this identical message in alt.autos.acura. Please
learn to cross-post properly.

Here's the link I offered there:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html

--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

Yes, sorry for the non linked cross post... I don't use the newsgroups
a whole lot...

On 28 Mar 2006 01:23:45 GMT, "TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:

>I already replied to this identical message in alt.autos.acura. Please
>learn to cross-post properly.
>
>Here's the link I offered there:
>http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html

 

Eric wrote:
>
> Ryan Biggs wrote:
> >
> > Hello all,
> >
> > I've had my '88 2dr 5spd for 7 years now and have done almost all my
> > own work on it. I don't have much experience with suspension work,
> > however, and now it's time to dive in. I need to replace the front
> > axles, and I figure I might do the shocks since I'm in there already.
> > (They don't seem too bad, but they are original.)
> >
> > Anyhow, I'm having trouble separating the ball joints from the lower
> > arm. These were replaced a couple of years ago, so I'm trying not to
> > trash them. The shop manual talks about a gear puller on lugs on the
> > arm, but they always seem to slip off. I also tried a puller with the
> > arms seated on the top of the arm, outside the boot. But it's very
> > difficult to keep the puller straight, and it still seems to pull off
> > at the slightest provokation. I got frightened I was going to tear
> > some parts up in a serious way trying this method.
> >
> > Seems like maybe a lever type ball joint remover might do the trick,
> > but the biggest jaws on these seem to be about 22mm. Using a caliper,
> > I found that the smallest jaw that would fit easily without forcing it
> > under the boot is about 30mm. I'm a bit afraid to try to ram anything
> > under that boot! Also I hear about various ways to separate the works
> > with creative use of a hammer, but this seems dubious when separating
> > good parts.
> >
> > I know this can't be that impossible, so obviously I'm just missing
> > the secret trick. Any suggestions?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Ryan
>
> This style of puller always seems to work well for me.
> http://www.stahlwille.com/0095.jpg
>

Here's another link for the same thing, http://tinyurl.com/fwx32. I bought
mine off of a Snap-On truck for about $60 but that was at least 10 years
ago.

Eric

 

"Ryan Biggs" <rrbiggs@swbell.net> wrote

> I've had my '88 2dr 5spd for 7 years now and have done almost all my
> own work on it. I don't have much experience with suspension work,
> however, and now it's time to dive in. I need to replace the front
> axles, and I figure I might do the shocks since I'm in there already.
> (They don't seem too bad, but they are original.)
>
> Anyhow, I'm having trouble separating the ball joints from the lower
> arm. These were replaced a couple of years ago, so I'm trying not to
> trash them. The shop manual talks about a gear puller on lugs on the
> arm, but they always seem to slip off. I also tried a puller with the
> arms seated on the top of the arm, outside the boot. But it's very
> difficult to keep the puller straight, and it still seems to pull off
> at the slightest provokation. I got frightened I was going to tear
> some parts up in a serious way trying this method.
>
> Seems like maybe a lever type ball joint remover might do the trick,
> but the biggest jaws on these seem to be about 22mm. Using a caliper,
> I found that the smallest jaw that would fit easily without forcing it
> under the boot is about 30mm. I'm a bit afraid to try to ram anything
> under that boot! Also I hear about various ways to separate the works
> with creative use of a hammer, but this seems dubious when separating
> good parts.
>
> I know this can't be that impossible, so obviously I'm just missing
> the secret trick. Any suggestions?

The easy method requires the ball joint puller posted by the other guys.
But if you're really determined, the hammer trick or the gear puller is reserved
for the pro. Fit the three jaw gear puller with correct size and once you have it
nice and tug, you can tie the gear puller arm with a tie so they won't fall off.
Continually, make sure it's not about to fall off. Once you get enough pressure
you can remove the tie. The gear puller won't damage the boot and make sure to
leave the castle nut partway in there.

However, there is another trick which requires no tool at all. I won't post it since
it might start a flame. It was discovered by accident. Works on some cars, no
consequential damage.

And there is another which require a jack and ratchet documented on video.
This trick will also get you a flame. I don't see any potential collateral damage
with this trick, but would like to see the evidence of damage.

--
This message won't repeated on the other forum.

 

"Burt" <burtsquareman@none.com> wrote in
news:nr5Wf.63737$dW3.45425@newssvr21.news.prodigy. com:


>
> However, there is another trick which requires no tool at all. I won't
> post it since it might start a flame. It was discovered by accident.
> Works on some cars, no consequential damage.


Would you be willing to email me privately with that method?



--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

"TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote

> > However, there is another trick which requires no tool at all. I won't
> > post it since it might start a flame. It was discovered by accident.
> > Works on some cars, no consequential damage.
>
>
> Would you be willing to email me privately with that method?

....yes, I'd just emailed. Of course, you will need to loosen the bolt for this trick to work.

 

"Burt" <burtsquareman@none.com> wrote in
news:WnkWf.60306$H71.42857@newssvr13.news.prodigy. com:

> "TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote
>
>> > However, there is another trick which requires no tool at all. I
>> > won't post it since it might start a flame. It was discovered by
>> > accident. Works on some cars, no consequential damage.
>>
>>
>> Would you be willing to email me privately with that method?
>
> ...yes, I'd just emailed. Of course, you will need to loosen the bolt
> for this trick to work.
>
>



Got the email. Now go check yours.


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/