I have a 1987 Honda accord which has a major misfiring problem. When the
car is at the traffic lights if keeps wanting to stall and the car jolts
pretty bad. when i go to take of the car hessitates and takes about 2-5
seconds to properly accellerate.
I took the car to a mechanic and this is what they did:
EFI SYSTEM CLEAN SERVICE
THROTTLE BODY SERVICE
PUT IN NEW FUEL FILTER, SPARK PLUGS AND HIGH TENSION LEADS.
$400.00 later and 4 trips back to the same mechanic and the car still has
the same problem.
I have been told that this model has a common problem with the distributor.
Is this correct and could this be the problem.
If not does anyone have any idea what the problem could be and how much
more it is going to cost me?
I REALLY NEED ADVISE AND HELP!!

 

This model isn't exactly prone to distributor failure, but that doesn't mean
that it doesn't happen sometimes. Did they check the distributor cap and
rotor? I think there was a service bulletin for the rubber gasket
insulating the electrodes of the igniter cracking and causing a miss on
acceleration. A bad vacuum advance (or stuck mechanical advance) in the
distributor could cause sluggishness, though probably not a missfire. I've
seen bad PCV valves cause a very rough idle on this model accord. (the
insides of the valve break away, causing a pretty bad vacuum leak). Low
fuel pressure (or volume of flow, even) could cause problems that are more
noticeable on acceleration (and at high RPM).



"Danielle Campbell via CarKB.com" <forum@nospam.CarKB.com> wrote in message
news:a0da7e5503874fa293b3c45cb5551ac5@CarKB.com...
>I have a 1987 Honda accord which has a major misfiring problem. When the
> car is at the traffic lights if keeps wanting to stall and the car jolts
> pretty bad. when i go to take of the car hessitates and takes about 2-5
> seconds to properly accellerate.
> I took the car to a mechanic and this is what they did:
> EFI SYSTEM CLEAN SERVICE
> THROTTLE BODY SERVICE
> PUT IN NEW FUEL FILTER, SPARK PLUGS AND HIGH TENSION LEADS.
> $400.00 later and 4 trips back to the same mechanic and the car still has
> the same problem.
> I have been told that this model has a common problem with the
> distributor.
> Is this correct and could this be the problem.
> If not does anyone have any idea what the problem could be and how much
> more it is going to cost me?
> I REALLY NEED ADVISE AND HELP!!

 

Thanks,

I'm taking the car to another mechanic this afternoon so i will ask about
those things when i get there.

I hope they can fix it! i am so over the problem. I just want the damn
thing to run properly!!

--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com

 

In article <659e47b03b0a4c77a0ad570a41bbdb4e@CarKB.com>, "Danielle
Campbell via CarKB.com" <forum@CarKB.com> wrote:

> Thanks,
>
> I'm taking the car to another mechanic this afternoon so i will ask about
> those things when i get there.
>
> I hope they can fix it! i am so over the problem. I just want the damn
> thing to run properly!!

When you visit the mechanic, ask him or her to hook up to the Diagnostic
Computerized Engine Tester. I once had a problem with a car that was only
running on 3 cylinders instead of four. I took the car to my favorite
mechanic. He hooked it up to what he called his D-CET. In less than 10
minutes, he figured out the exact spark plug wire that was defective.

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Thanks for your help.

I went to another mechanic today and got a second opinion.
He is pretty convinced it is the distributor.

Apparently because the car us fuel injected i have to buy a whole new
distributor / second hand one. not just the part.

I've been told this will cost me $500.00

bloody car is costing me more then what it is worth!

--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com

 

"Danielle Campbell via CarKB.com" <forum@CarKB.com> wrote in message
news:7b62c6a22a7c4f48acf7d30907c8724a@CarKB.com...
> Thanks for your help.
>
> I went to another mechanic today and got a second opinion.
> He is pretty convinced it is the distributor.
>
> Apparently because the car us fuel injected i have to buy a whole new
> distributor / second hand one. not just the part.
>
> I've been told this will cost me $500.00
>
> bloody car is costing me more then what it is worth!
>

A mechanic who had (has?) a Saturday radio show in Phoenix has an
interesting perspective on car repair costs... at least for cars that are
already paid for. Mark Salem says:
*check out prices to lease a car that is functionally comparable to the one
you have. It doesn't have to be identical, just be able to do the same job.
(He chooses lease because the monthly payments are usually less than
buying.)
*calculate the ratio of the repair cost you are facing to the monthly lease.
For example, if a similar car is $250 per month to lease and you are facing
a $500 bill, the repair is costing you 2 months' lease money.
*if that sort of repair is coming up more often than that, it's definitely
time to put the old girl down. Otherwise you are money ahead to do the
repair and move on.
*if the repair will likely exceed the market value of the vehicle, look into
buying a similar replacement (like another late 80's - early '90's Accord).
If you can find one that is better than the one you have for what you are
paying for repair (and it won't need repair), go for it!

Of course, that calculation doesn't cover things like comfort and style, but
you can put your own dollar figures on those and plug that into the mix. I'm
still driving an '85 Volvo because it saves me thousands every year in car
payments. The car I want is a Prius (package 9), which lists for almost
exactly as much as the Volvo did 20 years ago. But that means $500/month
payments, which is $6000/year. My Volvo isn't that ugly! Maybe when the
turbo goes out....

Mike

 

having same problems....misfire when shifting with manual trans.