87 CRX HF issue
02-13-2004 | 03:15 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
87 CRX HF issue
ive aquired another one of these, and plan on learning how to repair it. ive
got the owners manual, but not the service manual (gonna order one friday if
i can find one). question is this: the carb in this car has been cleaned and
repaired using 2 existing carbs already. the gas tank has been
'sandblasted'. i should mention that the car did sit for ~4 years with the
fuel in it. stabalizer was added, but i doubt it was enough. the car gets a
spark, kicks on for ~5 minutes, then dies. takes ~10-20 minutes to get it
running again, then it dies (so i dont break anything, i havent turned it on
since then). friends have suggested replacing the fuel pump, spark plugs and
wires, cleaning the intake, and possibly checking the piston rings. also,
the compression was low, but it was built up using tranny fluid. i should
say ive had a mechanic working on it, and he's the one who's been telling me
all this. he agrees with all of what my friends said and that it would take
work to get it going. already, the air filter, spark plugs, and fuel filter
have been changed. the old fuel was flushed and new fuel is in there. i plan
on changing the oil again. am i missing something here? i should mention
that when the car is on, it idles rough. not BAD, but rough. any thoughts
and/or suggestions greatly appreciated. also, im a newbie when it comes to
mechanics, so please be thorough with your explanations. thanks abunch guys
-agent smith
got the owners manual, but not the service manual (gonna order one friday if
i can find one). question is this: the carb in this car has been cleaned and
repaired using 2 existing carbs already. the gas tank has been
'sandblasted'. i should mention that the car did sit for ~4 years with the
fuel in it. stabalizer was added, but i doubt it was enough. the car gets a
spark, kicks on for ~5 minutes, then dies. takes ~10-20 minutes to get it
running again, then it dies (so i dont break anything, i havent turned it on
since then). friends have suggested replacing the fuel pump, spark plugs and
wires, cleaning the intake, and possibly checking the piston rings. also,
the compression was low, but it was built up using tranny fluid. i should
say ive had a mechanic working on it, and he's the one who's been telling me
all this. he agrees with all of what my friends said and that it would take
work to get it going. already, the air filter, spark plugs, and fuel filter
have been changed. the old fuel was flushed and new fuel is in there. i plan
on changing the oil again. am i missing something here? i should mention
that when the car is on, it idles rough. not BAD, but rough. any thoughts
and/or suggestions greatly appreciated. also, im a newbie when it comes to
mechanics, so please be thorough with your explanations. thanks abunch guys
-agent smith
02-13-2004 | 04:42 AM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 CRX HF issue
agent smith wrote:
>
> ive aquired another one of these, and plan on learning how to repair it.
> ive got the owners manual, but not the service manual (gonna order one
> friday if i can find one).
http://www.helminc.com
> question is this: the carb in this car has been cleaned and
> repaired using 2 existing carbs already. the gas tank has been
> 'sandblasted'.
What exactly are you referring to? The outside of the tank or the inside?
> i should mention that the car did sit for ~4 years with
> the fuel in it. stabalizer was added, but i doubt it was enough. the car
> gets a spark, kicks on for ~5 minutes, then dies. takes ~10-20 minutes to
> get it running again, then it dies (so i dont break anything, i havent
> turned it on since then). friends have suggested replacing the fuel pump,
> spark plugs and wires, cleaning the intake, and possibly checking the
> piston rings. also, the compression was low, but it was built up using
> tranny fluid. i should say ive had a mechanic working on it, and he's the
> one who's been telling me all this. he agrees with all of what my friends
> said and that it would take work to get it going. already, the air
> filter, spark plugs, and fuel filter have been changed. the old fuel was
> flushed and new fuel is in there. i plan on changing the oil again. am i
> missing something here? i should mention that when the car is on, it
> idles rough. not BAD, but rough. any thoughts and/or suggestions greatly
> appreciated. also, im a newbie when it comes to mechanics, so please be
> thorough with your explanations. thanks abunch guys
Low compression could be caused by many things. You should check the
mechanical timing to make sure that it's correct. But it sounds like your
rings might be just a bit sticky since a wet compression test showed an
improvement. What were the actual wet/dry compression numbers?
Your symptoms could also be consistent with a vacuum leak. Check all of the
vacuum hoses around the carburetor. You may need to use a flashlight and a
small mirror to facilitate your inspection. Another common source for a
vacuum leak on these units is the carburetor base. This is the large
rubberized block underneath the carburetor. Start up the car and then spray
some carb cleaner around the base of the rubber block where it mates with
the intake manifold. Make sure that you spray around all sides of the
rubber block and keep the air cleaner on to avoid a false positive reading.
If a vacuum leak is present, then there should be an rpm increase when you
spray with carb cleaner.
In addition, there should be site glasses on the side of the carburetor to
check the float levels. The fuel should be at the black dots in the middle
of the site glasses.
Eric
>
> ive aquired another one of these, and plan on learning how to repair it.
> ive got the owners manual, but not the service manual (gonna order one
> friday if i can find one).
http://www.helminc.com
> question is this: the carb in this car has been cleaned and
> repaired using 2 existing carbs already. the gas tank has been
> 'sandblasted'.
What exactly are you referring to? The outside of the tank or the inside?
> i should mention that the car did sit for ~4 years with
> the fuel in it. stabalizer was added, but i doubt it was enough. the car
> gets a spark, kicks on for ~5 minutes, then dies. takes ~10-20 minutes to
> get it running again, then it dies (so i dont break anything, i havent
> turned it on since then). friends have suggested replacing the fuel pump,
> spark plugs and wires, cleaning the intake, and possibly checking the
> piston rings. also, the compression was low, but it was built up using
> tranny fluid. i should say ive had a mechanic working on it, and he's the
> one who's been telling me all this. he agrees with all of what my friends
> said and that it would take work to get it going. already, the air
> filter, spark plugs, and fuel filter have been changed. the old fuel was
> flushed and new fuel is in there. i plan on changing the oil again. am i
> missing something here? i should mention that when the car is on, it
> idles rough. not BAD, but rough. any thoughts and/or suggestions greatly
> appreciated. also, im a newbie when it comes to mechanics, so please be
> thorough with your explanations. thanks abunch guys
Low compression could be caused by many things. You should check the
mechanical timing to make sure that it's correct. But it sounds like your
rings might be just a bit sticky since a wet compression test showed an
improvement. What were the actual wet/dry compression numbers?
Your symptoms could also be consistent with a vacuum leak. Check all of the
vacuum hoses around the carburetor. You may need to use a flashlight and a
small mirror to facilitate your inspection. Another common source for a
vacuum leak on these units is the carburetor base. This is the large
rubberized block underneath the carburetor. Start up the car and then spray
some carb cleaner around the base of the rubber block where it mates with
the intake manifold. Make sure that you spray around all sides of the
rubber block and keep the air cleaner on to avoid a false positive reading.
If a vacuum leak is present, then there should be an rpm increase when you
spray with carb cleaner.
In addition, there should be site glasses on the side of the carburetor to
check the float levels. The fuel should be at the black dots in the middle
of the site glasses.
Eric
02-13-2004 | 04:42 AM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 CRX HF issue
agent smith wrote:
>
> ive aquired another one of these, and plan on learning how to repair it.
> ive got the owners manual, but not the service manual (gonna order one
> friday if i can find one).
http://www.helminc.com
> question is this: the carb in this car has been cleaned and
> repaired using 2 existing carbs already. the gas tank has been
> 'sandblasted'.
What exactly are you referring to? The outside of the tank or the inside?
> i should mention that the car did sit for ~4 years with
> the fuel in it. stabalizer was added, but i doubt it was enough. the car
> gets a spark, kicks on for ~5 minutes, then dies. takes ~10-20 minutes to
> get it running again, then it dies (so i dont break anything, i havent
> turned it on since then). friends have suggested replacing the fuel pump,
> spark plugs and wires, cleaning the intake, and possibly checking the
> piston rings. also, the compression was low, but it was built up using
> tranny fluid. i should say ive had a mechanic working on it, and he's the
> one who's been telling me all this. he agrees with all of what my friends
> said and that it would take work to get it going. already, the air
> filter, spark plugs, and fuel filter have been changed. the old fuel was
> flushed and new fuel is in there. i plan on changing the oil again. am i
> missing something here? i should mention that when the car is on, it
> idles rough. not BAD, but rough. any thoughts and/or suggestions greatly
> appreciated. also, im a newbie when it comes to mechanics, so please be
> thorough with your explanations. thanks abunch guys
Low compression could be caused by many things. You should check the
mechanical timing to make sure that it's correct. But it sounds like your
rings might be just a bit sticky since a wet compression test showed an
improvement. What were the actual wet/dry compression numbers?
Your symptoms could also be consistent with a vacuum leak. Check all of the
vacuum hoses around the carburetor. You may need to use a flashlight and a
small mirror to facilitate your inspection. Another common source for a
vacuum leak on these units is the carburetor base. This is the large
rubberized block underneath the carburetor. Start up the car and then spray
some carb cleaner around the base of the rubber block where it mates with
the intake manifold. Make sure that you spray around all sides of the
rubber block and keep the air cleaner on to avoid a false positive reading.
If a vacuum leak is present, then there should be an rpm increase when you
spray with carb cleaner.
In addition, there should be site glasses on the side of the carburetor to
check the float levels. The fuel should be at the black dots in the middle
of the site glasses.
Eric
>
> ive aquired another one of these, and plan on learning how to repair it.
> ive got the owners manual, but not the service manual (gonna order one
> friday if i can find one).
http://www.helminc.com
> question is this: the carb in this car has been cleaned and
> repaired using 2 existing carbs already. the gas tank has been
> 'sandblasted'.
What exactly are you referring to? The outside of the tank or the inside?
> i should mention that the car did sit for ~4 years with
> the fuel in it. stabalizer was added, but i doubt it was enough. the car
> gets a spark, kicks on for ~5 minutes, then dies. takes ~10-20 minutes to
> get it running again, then it dies (so i dont break anything, i havent
> turned it on since then). friends have suggested replacing the fuel pump,
> spark plugs and wires, cleaning the intake, and possibly checking the
> piston rings. also, the compression was low, but it was built up using
> tranny fluid. i should say ive had a mechanic working on it, and he's the
> one who's been telling me all this. he agrees with all of what my friends
> said and that it would take work to get it going. already, the air
> filter, spark plugs, and fuel filter have been changed. the old fuel was
> flushed and new fuel is in there. i plan on changing the oil again. am i
> missing something here? i should mention that when the car is on, it
> idles rough. not BAD, but rough. any thoughts and/or suggestions greatly
> appreciated. also, im a newbie when it comes to mechanics, so please be
> thorough with your explanations. thanks abunch guys
Low compression could be caused by many things. You should check the
mechanical timing to make sure that it's correct. But it sounds like your
rings might be just a bit sticky since a wet compression test showed an
improvement. What were the actual wet/dry compression numbers?
Your symptoms could also be consistent with a vacuum leak. Check all of the
vacuum hoses around the carburetor. You may need to use a flashlight and a
small mirror to facilitate your inspection. Another common source for a
vacuum leak on these units is the carburetor base. This is the large
rubberized block underneath the carburetor. Start up the car and then spray
some carb cleaner around the base of the rubber block where it mates with
the intake manifold. Make sure that you spray around all sides of the
rubber block and keep the air cleaner on to avoid a false positive reading.
If a vacuum leak is present, then there should be an rpm increase when you
spray with carb cleaner.
In addition, there should be site glasses on the side of the carburetor to
check the float levels. The fuel should be at the black dots in the middle
of the site glasses.
Eric
02-13-2004 | 04:42 AM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 CRX HF issue
agent smith wrote:
>
> ive aquired another one of these, and plan on learning how to repair it.
> ive got the owners manual, but not the service manual (gonna order one
> friday if i can find one).
http://www.helminc.com
> question is this: the carb in this car has been cleaned and
> repaired using 2 existing carbs already. the gas tank has been
> 'sandblasted'.
What exactly are you referring to? The outside of the tank or the inside?
> i should mention that the car did sit for ~4 years with
> the fuel in it. stabalizer was added, but i doubt it was enough. the car
> gets a spark, kicks on for ~5 minutes, then dies. takes ~10-20 minutes to
> get it running again, then it dies (so i dont break anything, i havent
> turned it on since then). friends have suggested replacing the fuel pump,
> spark plugs and wires, cleaning the intake, and possibly checking the
> piston rings. also, the compression was low, but it was built up using
> tranny fluid. i should say ive had a mechanic working on it, and he's the
> one who's been telling me all this. he agrees with all of what my friends
> said and that it would take work to get it going. already, the air
> filter, spark plugs, and fuel filter have been changed. the old fuel was
> flushed and new fuel is in there. i plan on changing the oil again. am i
> missing something here? i should mention that when the car is on, it
> idles rough. not BAD, but rough. any thoughts and/or suggestions greatly
> appreciated. also, im a newbie when it comes to mechanics, so please be
> thorough with your explanations. thanks abunch guys
Low compression could be caused by many things. You should check the
mechanical timing to make sure that it's correct. But it sounds like your
rings might be just a bit sticky since a wet compression test showed an
improvement. What were the actual wet/dry compression numbers?
Your symptoms could also be consistent with a vacuum leak. Check all of the
vacuum hoses around the carburetor. You may need to use a flashlight and a
small mirror to facilitate your inspection. Another common source for a
vacuum leak on these units is the carburetor base. This is the large
rubberized block underneath the carburetor. Start up the car and then spray
some carb cleaner around the base of the rubber block where it mates with
the intake manifold. Make sure that you spray around all sides of the
rubber block and keep the air cleaner on to avoid a false positive reading.
If a vacuum leak is present, then there should be an rpm increase when you
spray with carb cleaner.
In addition, there should be site glasses on the side of the carburetor to
check the float levels. The fuel should be at the black dots in the middle
of the site glasses.
Eric
>
> ive aquired another one of these, and plan on learning how to repair it.
> ive got the owners manual, but not the service manual (gonna order one
> friday if i can find one).
http://www.helminc.com
> question is this: the carb in this car has been cleaned and
> repaired using 2 existing carbs already. the gas tank has been
> 'sandblasted'.
What exactly are you referring to? The outside of the tank or the inside?
> i should mention that the car did sit for ~4 years with
> the fuel in it. stabalizer was added, but i doubt it was enough. the car
> gets a spark, kicks on for ~5 minutes, then dies. takes ~10-20 minutes to
> get it running again, then it dies (so i dont break anything, i havent
> turned it on since then). friends have suggested replacing the fuel pump,
> spark plugs and wires, cleaning the intake, and possibly checking the
> piston rings. also, the compression was low, but it was built up using
> tranny fluid. i should say ive had a mechanic working on it, and he's the
> one who's been telling me all this. he agrees with all of what my friends
> said and that it would take work to get it going. already, the air
> filter, spark plugs, and fuel filter have been changed. the old fuel was
> flushed and new fuel is in there. i plan on changing the oil again. am i
> missing something here? i should mention that when the car is on, it
> idles rough. not BAD, but rough. any thoughts and/or suggestions greatly
> appreciated. also, im a newbie when it comes to mechanics, so please be
> thorough with your explanations. thanks abunch guys
Low compression could be caused by many things. You should check the
mechanical timing to make sure that it's correct. But it sounds like your
rings might be just a bit sticky since a wet compression test showed an
improvement. What were the actual wet/dry compression numbers?
Your symptoms could also be consistent with a vacuum leak. Check all of the
vacuum hoses around the carburetor. You may need to use a flashlight and a
small mirror to facilitate your inspection. Another common source for a
vacuum leak on these units is the carburetor base. This is the large
rubberized block underneath the carburetor. Start up the car and then spray
some carb cleaner around the base of the rubber block where it mates with
the intake manifold. Make sure that you spray around all sides of the
rubber block and keep the air cleaner on to avoid a false positive reading.
If a vacuum leak is present, then there should be an rpm increase when you
spray with carb cleaner.
In addition, there should be site glasses on the side of the carburetor to
check the float levels. The fuel should be at the black dots in the middle
of the site glasses.
Eric
02-13-2004 | 04:42 AM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 CRX HF issue
agent smith wrote:
>
> ive aquired another one of these, and plan on learning how to repair it.
> ive got the owners manual, but not the service manual (gonna order one
> friday if i can find one).
http://www.helminc.com
> question is this: the carb in this car has been cleaned and
> repaired using 2 existing carbs already. the gas tank has been
> 'sandblasted'.
What exactly are you referring to? The outside of the tank or the inside?
> i should mention that the car did sit for ~4 years with
> the fuel in it. stabalizer was added, but i doubt it was enough. the car
> gets a spark, kicks on for ~5 minutes, then dies. takes ~10-20 minutes to
> get it running again, then it dies (so i dont break anything, i havent
> turned it on since then). friends have suggested replacing the fuel pump,
> spark plugs and wires, cleaning the intake, and possibly checking the
> piston rings. also, the compression was low, but it was built up using
> tranny fluid. i should say ive had a mechanic working on it, and he's the
> one who's been telling me all this. he agrees with all of what my friends
> said and that it would take work to get it going. already, the air
> filter, spark plugs, and fuel filter have been changed. the old fuel was
> flushed and new fuel is in there. i plan on changing the oil again. am i
> missing something here? i should mention that when the car is on, it
> idles rough. not BAD, but rough. any thoughts and/or suggestions greatly
> appreciated. also, im a newbie when it comes to mechanics, so please be
> thorough with your explanations. thanks abunch guys
Low compression could be caused by many things. You should check the
mechanical timing to make sure that it's correct. But it sounds like your
rings might be just a bit sticky since a wet compression test showed an
improvement. What were the actual wet/dry compression numbers?
Your symptoms could also be consistent with a vacuum leak. Check all of the
vacuum hoses around the carburetor. You may need to use a flashlight and a
small mirror to facilitate your inspection. Another common source for a
vacuum leak on these units is the carburetor base. This is the large
rubberized block underneath the carburetor. Start up the car and then spray
some carb cleaner around the base of the rubber block where it mates with
the intake manifold. Make sure that you spray around all sides of the
rubber block and keep the air cleaner on to avoid a false positive reading.
If a vacuum leak is present, then there should be an rpm increase when you
spray with carb cleaner.
In addition, there should be site glasses on the side of the carburetor to
check the float levels. The fuel should be at the black dots in the middle
of the site glasses.
Eric
>
> ive aquired another one of these, and plan on learning how to repair it.
> ive got the owners manual, but not the service manual (gonna order one
> friday if i can find one).
http://www.helminc.com
> question is this: the carb in this car has been cleaned and
> repaired using 2 existing carbs already. the gas tank has been
> 'sandblasted'.
What exactly are you referring to? The outside of the tank or the inside?
> i should mention that the car did sit for ~4 years with
> the fuel in it. stabalizer was added, but i doubt it was enough. the car
> gets a spark, kicks on for ~5 minutes, then dies. takes ~10-20 minutes to
> get it running again, then it dies (so i dont break anything, i havent
> turned it on since then). friends have suggested replacing the fuel pump,
> spark plugs and wires, cleaning the intake, and possibly checking the
> piston rings. also, the compression was low, but it was built up using
> tranny fluid. i should say ive had a mechanic working on it, and he's the
> one who's been telling me all this. he agrees with all of what my friends
> said and that it would take work to get it going. already, the air
> filter, spark plugs, and fuel filter have been changed. the old fuel was
> flushed and new fuel is in there. i plan on changing the oil again. am i
> missing something here? i should mention that when the car is on, it
> idles rough. not BAD, but rough. any thoughts and/or suggestions greatly
> appreciated. also, im a newbie when it comes to mechanics, so please be
> thorough with your explanations. thanks abunch guys
Low compression could be caused by many things. You should check the
mechanical timing to make sure that it's correct. But it sounds like your
rings might be just a bit sticky since a wet compression test showed an
improvement. What were the actual wet/dry compression numbers?
Your symptoms could also be consistent with a vacuum leak. Check all of the
vacuum hoses around the carburetor. You may need to use a flashlight and a
small mirror to facilitate your inspection. Another common source for a
vacuum leak on these units is the carburetor base. This is the large
rubberized block underneath the carburetor. Start up the car and then spray
some carb cleaner around the base of the rubber block where it mates with
the intake manifold. Make sure that you spray around all sides of the
rubber block and keep the air cleaner on to avoid a false positive reading.
If a vacuum leak is present, then there should be an rpm increase when you
spray with carb cleaner.
In addition, there should be site glasses on the side of the carburetor to
check the float levels. The fuel should be at the black dots in the middle
of the site glasses.
Eric
02-13-2004 | 01:22 PM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 CRX HF issue
"Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:402C9C16.6060EF6A@spam.now...
> agent smith wrote:
> >
> > ive aquired another one of these, and plan on learning how to repair it.
> > ive got the owners manual, but not the service manual (gonna order one
> > friday if i can find one).
>
> http://www.helminc.com
>
> > question is this: the carb in this car has been cleaned and
> > repaired using 2 existing carbs already. the gas tank has been
> > 'sandblasted'.
>
> What exactly are you referring to? The outside of the tank or the inside?
both just to be safe. the mechanic said it had something inside called
'varnish' from sitting so long. thing is, few other people i talked with
said you could add 'HEET" and clear out any water and possibly varnish in
the gas tank. would the gas tank need replacing if it sat with fuel for so
long?
>
> > i should mention that the car did sit for ~4 years with
> > the fuel in it. stabalizer was added, but i doubt it was enough. the car
> > gets a spark, kicks on for ~5 minutes, then dies. takes ~10-20 minutes
to
> > get it running again, then it dies (so i dont break anything, i havent
> > turned it on since then). friends have suggested replacing the fuel
pump,
> > spark plugs and wires, cleaning the intake, and possibly checking the
> > piston rings. also, the compression was low, but it was built up using
> > tranny fluid. i should say ive had a mechanic working on it, and he's
the
> > one who's been telling me all this. he agrees with all of what my
friends
> > said and that it would take work to get it going. already, the air
> > filter, spark plugs, and fuel filter have been changed. the old fuel was
> > flushed and new fuel is in there. i plan on changing the oil again. am i
> > missing something here? i should mention that when the car is on, it
> > idles rough. not BAD, but rough. any thoughts and/or suggestions greatly
> > appreciated. also, im a newbie when it comes to mechanics, so please be
> > thorough with your explanations. thanks abunch guys
>
> Low compression could be caused by many things. You should check the
> mechanical timing to make sure that it's correct. But it sounds like your
> rings might be just a bit sticky since a wet compression test showed an
> improvement. What were the actual wet/dry compression numbers?
ill see if i can get that later today. the mechanic is working right now.
>
> Your symptoms could also be consistent with a vacuum leak. Check all of
the
friend i was just speaking with said the same thing, cept that the carb was
put back on twice by the same person... so i dont think (i hope) its a leak.
> vacuum hoses around the carburetor. You may need to use a flashlight and
a
> small mirror to facilitate your inspection. Another common source for a
> vacuum leak on these units is the carburetor base. This is the large
> rubberized block underneath the carburetor. Start up the car and then
spray
> some carb cleaner around the base of the rubber block where it mates with
> the intake manifold. Make sure that you spray around all sides of the
> rubber block and keep the air cleaner on to avoid a false positive
reading.
> If a vacuum leak is present, then there should be an rpm increase when you
> spray with carb cleaner.
>
> In addition, there should be site glasses on the side of the carburetor to
> check the float levels. The fuel should be at the black dots in the
middle
> of the site glasses.
ty for this info. i will put it to good use and report back.
>
> Eric
-agent smith
ps - assuming i needed to replace a lot of parts, does anyone have an
estimate? ty again!
02-13-2004 | 01:22 PM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 CRX HF issue
"Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:402C9C16.6060EF6A@spam.now...
> agent smith wrote:
> >
> > ive aquired another one of these, and plan on learning how to repair it.
> > ive got the owners manual, but not the service manual (gonna order one
> > friday if i can find one).
>
> http://www.helminc.com
>
> > question is this: the carb in this car has been cleaned and
> > repaired using 2 existing carbs already. the gas tank has been
> > 'sandblasted'.
>
> What exactly are you referring to? The outside of the tank or the inside?
both just to be safe. the mechanic said it had something inside called
'varnish' from sitting so long. thing is, few other people i talked with
said you could add 'HEET" and clear out any water and possibly varnish in
the gas tank. would the gas tank need replacing if it sat with fuel for so
long?
>
> > i should mention that the car did sit for ~4 years with
> > the fuel in it. stabalizer was added, but i doubt it was enough. the car
> > gets a spark, kicks on for ~5 minutes, then dies. takes ~10-20 minutes
to
> > get it running again, then it dies (so i dont break anything, i havent
> > turned it on since then). friends have suggested replacing the fuel
pump,
> > spark plugs and wires, cleaning the intake, and possibly checking the
> > piston rings. also, the compression was low, but it was built up using
> > tranny fluid. i should say ive had a mechanic working on it, and he's
the
> > one who's been telling me all this. he agrees with all of what my
friends
> > said and that it would take work to get it going. already, the air
> > filter, spark plugs, and fuel filter have been changed. the old fuel was
> > flushed and new fuel is in there. i plan on changing the oil again. am i
> > missing something here? i should mention that when the car is on, it
> > idles rough. not BAD, but rough. any thoughts and/or suggestions greatly
> > appreciated. also, im a newbie when it comes to mechanics, so please be
> > thorough with your explanations. thanks abunch guys
>
> Low compression could be caused by many things. You should check the
> mechanical timing to make sure that it's correct. But it sounds like your
> rings might be just a bit sticky since a wet compression test showed an
> improvement. What were the actual wet/dry compression numbers?
ill see if i can get that later today. the mechanic is working right now.
>
> Your symptoms could also be consistent with a vacuum leak. Check all of
the
friend i was just speaking with said the same thing, cept that the carb was
put back on twice by the same person... so i dont think (i hope) its a leak.
> vacuum hoses around the carburetor. You may need to use a flashlight and
a
> small mirror to facilitate your inspection. Another common source for a
> vacuum leak on these units is the carburetor base. This is the large
> rubberized block underneath the carburetor. Start up the car and then
spray
> some carb cleaner around the base of the rubber block where it mates with
> the intake manifold. Make sure that you spray around all sides of the
> rubber block and keep the air cleaner on to avoid a false positive
reading.
> If a vacuum leak is present, then there should be an rpm increase when you
> spray with carb cleaner.
>
> In addition, there should be site glasses on the side of the carburetor to
> check the float levels. The fuel should be at the black dots in the
middle
> of the site glasses.
ty for this info. i will put it to good use and report back.
>
> Eric
-agent smith
ps - assuming i needed to replace a lot of parts, does anyone have an
estimate? ty again!
02-13-2004 | 01:22 PM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 CRX HF issue
"Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:402C9C16.6060EF6A@spam.now...
> agent smith wrote:
> >
> > ive aquired another one of these, and plan on learning how to repair it.
> > ive got the owners manual, but not the service manual (gonna order one
> > friday if i can find one).
>
> http://www.helminc.com
>
> > question is this: the carb in this car has been cleaned and
> > repaired using 2 existing carbs already. the gas tank has been
> > 'sandblasted'.
>
> What exactly are you referring to? The outside of the tank or the inside?
both just to be safe. the mechanic said it had something inside called
'varnish' from sitting so long. thing is, few other people i talked with
said you could add 'HEET" and clear out any water and possibly varnish in
the gas tank. would the gas tank need replacing if it sat with fuel for so
long?
>
> > i should mention that the car did sit for ~4 years with
> > the fuel in it. stabalizer was added, but i doubt it was enough. the car
> > gets a spark, kicks on for ~5 minutes, then dies. takes ~10-20 minutes
to
> > get it running again, then it dies (so i dont break anything, i havent
> > turned it on since then). friends have suggested replacing the fuel
pump,
> > spark plugs and wires, cleaning the intake, and possibly checking the
> > piston rings. also, the compression was low, but it was built up using
> > tranny fluid. i should say ive had a mechanic working on it, and he's
the
> > one who's been telling me all this. he agrees with all of what my
friends
> > said and that it would take work to get it going. already, the air
> > filter, spark plugs, and fuel filter have been changed. the old fuel was
> > flushed and new fuel is in there. i plan on changing the oil again. am i
> > missing something here? i should mention that when the car is on, it
> > idles rough. not BAD, but rough. any thoughts and/or suggestions greatly
> > appreciated. also, im a newbie when it comes to mechanics, so please be
> > thorough with your explanations. thanks abunch guys
>
> Low compression could be caused by many things. You should check the
> mechanical timing to make sure that it's correct. But it sounds like your
> rings might be just a bit sticky since a wet compression test showed an
> improvement. What were the actual wet/dry compression numbers?
ill see if i can get that later today. the mechanic is working right now.
>
> Your symptoms could also be consistent with a vacuum leak. Check all of
the
friend i was just speaking with said the same thing, cept that the carb was
put back on twice by the same person... so i dont think (i hope) its a leak.
> vacuum hoses around the carburetor. You may need to use a flashlight and
a
> small mirror to facilitate your inspection. Another common source for a
> vacuum leak on these units is the carburetor base. This is the large
> rubberized block underneath the carburetor. Start up the car and then
spray
> some carb cleaner around the base of the rubber block where it mates with
> the intake manifold. Make sure that you spray around all sides of the
> rubber block and keep the air cleaner on to avoid a false positive
reading.
> If a vacuum leak is present, then there should be an rpm increase when you
> spray with carb cleaner.
>
> In addition, there should be site glasses on the side of the carburetor to
> check the float levels. The fuel should be at the black dots in the
middle
> of the site glasses.
ty for this info. i will put it to good use and report back.
>
> Eric
-agent smith
ps - assuming i needed to replace a lot of parts, does anyone have an
estimate? ty again!
02-13-2004 | 01:22 PM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 CRX HF issue
"Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:402C9C16.6060EF6A@spam.now...
> agent smith wrote:
> >
> > ive aquired another one of these, and plan on learning how to repair it.
> > ive got the owners manual, but not the service manual (gonna order one
> > friday if i can find one).
>
> http://www.helminc.com
>
> > question is this: the carb in this car has been cleaned and
> > repaired using 2 existing carbs already. the gas tank has been
> > 'sandblasted'.
>
> What exactly are you referring to? The outside of the tank or the inside?
both just to be safe. the mechanic said it had something inside called
'varnish' from sitting so long. thing is, few other people i talked with
said you could add 'HEET" and clear out any water and possibly varnish in
the gas tank. would the gas tank need replacing if it sat with fuel for so
long?
>
> > i should mention that the car did sit for ~4 years with
> > the fuel in it. stabalizer was added, but i doubt it was enough. the car
> > gets a spark, kicks on for ~5 minutes, then dies. takes ~10-20 minutes
to
> > get it running again, then it dies (so i dont break anything, i havent
> > turned it on since then). friends have suggested replacing the fuel
pump,
> > spark plugs and wires, cleaning the intake, and possibly checking the
> > piston rings. also, the compression was low, but it was built up using
> > tranny fluid. i should say ive had a mechanic working on it, and he's
the
> > one who's been telling me all this. he agrees with all of what my
friends
> > said and that it would take work to get it going. already, the air
> > filter, spark plugs, and fuel filter have been changed. the old fuel was
> > flushed and new fuel is in there. i plan on changing the oil again. am i
> > missing something here? i should mention that when the car is on, it
> > idles rough. not BAD, but rough. any thoughts and/or suggestions greatly
> > appreciated. also, im a newbie when it comes to mechanics, so please be
> > thorough with your explanations. thanks abunch guys
>
> Low compression could be caused by many things. You should check the
> mechanical timing to make sure that it's correct. But it sounds like your
> rings might be just a bit sticky since a wet compression test showed an
> improvement. What were the actual wet/dry compression numbers?
ill see if i can get that later today. the mechanic is working right now.
>
> Your symptoms could also be consistent with a vacuum leak. Check all of
the
friend i was just speaking with said the same thing, cept that the carb was
put back on twice by the same person... so i dont think (i hope) its a leak.
> vacuum hoses around the carburetor. You may need to use a flashlight and
a
> small mirror to facilitate your inspection. Another common source for a
> vacuum leak on these units is the carburetor base. This is the large
> rubberized block underneath the carburetor. Start up the car and then
spray
> some carb cleaner around the base of the rubber block where it mates with
> the intake manifold. Make sure that you spray around all sides of the
> rubber block and keep the air cleaner on to avoid a false positive
reading.
> If a vacuum leak is present, then there should be an rpm increase when you
> spray with carb cleaner.
>
> In addition, there should be site glasses on the side of the carburetor to
> check the float levels. The fuel should be at the black dots in the
middle
> of the site glasses.
ty for this info. i will put it to good use and report back.
>
> Eric
-agent smith
ps - assuming i needed to replace a lot of parts, does anyone have an
estimate? ty again!
02-14-2004 | 08:03 AM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 CRX HF issue
agent smith wrote:
>
> "Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:402C9C16.6060EF6A@spam.now...
> > agent smith wrote:
> > >
> > > ive aquired another one of these, and plan on learning how to repair > > > it. ive got the owners manual, but not the service manual (gonna
> > > order one friday if i can find one).
> >
> > http://www.helminc.com
> >
> > > question is this: the carb in this car has been cleaned and
> > > repaired using 2 existing carbs already. the gas tank has been
> > > 'sandblasted'.
> >
> > What exactly are you referring to? The outside of the tank or the
> > inside?
>
> both just to be safe. the mechanic said it had something inside called
> 'varnish' from sitting so long. thing is, few other people i talked with
> said you could add 'HEET" and clear out any water and possibly varnish in
> the gas tank. would the gas tank need replacing if it sat with fuel for
> so long?
You may need a new mechanic! Sandblasting the inside of a gas tank is
likely one of the wackiest things I've heard of yet. I would've gone for a
solvent approach as it would minimize the risk of leaving any grit behind
which could plug up and/or damage your carburetor or fuel pump.
> > > i should mention that the car did sit for ~4 years with
> > > the fuel in it. stabalizer was added, but i doubt it was enough. the
> > > car gets a spark, kicks on for ~5 minutes, then dies. takes ~10-20
> > > minutes to get it running again, then it dies (so i dont break
> > > anything, i havent turned it on since then). friends have suggested
> > > replacing the fuel pump, spark plugs and wires, cleaning the intake,
> > > and possibly checking the piston rings. also, the compression was
> > > low, but it was built up using tranny fluid. i should say ive had a
> > > mechanic working on it, and he's the one who's been telling me all
> > > this. he agrees with all of what my friends said and that it would
> > > take work to get it going. already, the air filter, spark plugs, and
> > > fuel filter have been changed. the old fuel was flushed and new fuel
> > > is in there. i plan on changing the oil again. am i missing something
> > > here? i should mention that when the car is on, it idles rough. not
> > > BAD, but rough. any thoughts and/or suggestions greatly appreciated. > > > also, im a newbie when it comes to mechanics, so please be
> > > thorough with your explanations. thanks abunch guys
> >
> > Low compression could be caused by many things. You should check the
> > mechanical timing to make sure that it's correct. But it sounds like
> > your rings might be just a bit sticky since a wet compression test
> > showed an improvement. What were the actual wet/dry compression
> > numbers?
>
> ill see if i can get that later today. the mechanic is working right now.
>
> >
> > Your symptoms could also be consistent with a vacuum leak. Check all
> > of the
>
> friend i was just speaking with said the same thing, cept that the carb
> was put back on twice by the same person... so i dont think (i hope) its
> a leak.
That's all the more reason to suspect a possible vacuum leak. The person
doing this work may have overlooked something. In addition, when vacuum
hoses get old they become brittle and are fairly easy to break if they're
not treated with care when removing them.
>
> "Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:402C9C16.6060EF6A@spam.now...
> > agent smith wrote:
> > >
> > > ive aquired another one of these, and plan on learning how to repair > > > it. ive got the owners manual, but not the service manual (gonna
> > > order one friday if i can find one).
> >
> > http://www.helminc.com
> >
> > > question is this: the carb in this car has been cleaned and
> > > repaired using 2 existing carbs already. the gas tank has been
> > > 'sandblasted'.
> >
> > What exactly are you referring to? The outside of the tank or the
> > inside?
>
> both just to be safe. the mechanic said it had something inside called
> 'varnish' from sitting so long. thing is, few other people i talked with
> said you could add 'HEET" and clear out any water and possibly varnish in
> the gas tank. would the gas tank need replacing if it sat with fuel for
> so long?
You may need a new mechanic! Sandblasting the inside of a gas tank is
likely one of the wackiest things I've heard of yet. I would've gone for a
solvent approach as it would minimize the risk of leaving any grit behind
which could plug up and/or damage your carburetor or fuel pump.
> > > i should mention that the car did sit for ~4 years with
> > > the fuel in it. stabalizer was added, but i doubt it was enough. the
> > > car gets a spark, kicks on for ~5 minutes, then dies. takes ~10-20
> > > minutes to get it running again, then it dies (so i dont break
> > > anything, i havent turned it on since then). friends have suggested
> > > replacing the fuel pump, spark plugs and wires, cleaning the intake,
> > > and possibly checking the piston rings. also, the compression was
> > > low, but it was built up using tranny fluid. i should say ive had a
> > > mechanic working on it, and he's the one who's been telling me all
> > > this. he agrees with all of what my friends said and that it would
> > > take work to get it going. already, the air filter, spark plugs, and
> > > fuel filter have been changed. the old fuel was flushed and new fuel
> > > is in there. i plan on changing the oil again. am i missing something
> > > here? i should mention that when the car is on, it idles rough. not
> > > BAD, but rough. any thoughts and/or suggestions greatly appreciated. > > > also, im a newbie when it comes to mechanics, so please be
> > > thorough with your explanations. thanks abunch guys
> >
> > Low compression could be caused by many things. You should check the
> > mechanical timing to make sure that it's correct. But it sounds like
> > your rings might be just a bit sticky since a wet compression test
> > showed an improvement. What were the actual wet/dry compression
> > numbers?
>
> ill see if i can get that later today. the mechanic is working right now.
>
> >
> > Your symptoms could also be consistent with a vacuum leak. Check all
> > of the
>
> friend i was just speaking with said the same thing, cept that the carb
> was put back on twice by the same person... so i dont think (i hope) its
> a leak.
That's all the more reason to suspect a possible vacuum leak. The person
doing this work may have overlooked something. In addition, when vacuum
hoses get old they become brittle and are fairly easy to break if they're
not treated with care when removing them.
02-14-2004 | 08:03 AM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 CRX HF issue
agent smith wrote:
>
> "Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:402C9C16.6060EF6A@spam.now...
> > agent smith wrote:
> > >
> > > ive aquired another one of these, and plan on learning how to repair > > > it. ive got the owners manual, but not the service manual (gonna
> > > order one friday if i can find one).
> >
> > http://www.helminc.com
> >
> > > question is this: the carb in this car has been cleaned and
> > > repaired using 2 existing carbs already. the gas tank has been
> > > 'sandblasted'.
> >
> > What exactly are you referring to? The outside of the tank or the
> > inside?
>
> both just to be safe. the mechanic said it had something inside called
> 'varnish' from sitting so long. thing is, few other people i talked with
> said you could add 'HEET" and clear out any water and possibly varnish in
> the gas tank. would the gas tank need replacing if it sat with fuel for
> so long?
You may need a new mechanic! Sandblasting the inside of a gas tank is
likely one of the wackiest things I've heard of yet. I would've gone for a
solvent approach as it would minimize the risk of leaving any grit behind
which could plug up and/or damage your carburetor or fuel pump.
> > > i should mention that the car did sit for ~4 years with
> > > the fuel in it. stabalizer was added, but i doubt it was enough. the
> > > car gets a spark, kicks on for ~5 minutes, then dies. takes ~10-20
> > > minutes to get it running again, then it dies (so i dont break
> > > anything, i havent turned it on since then). friends have suggested
> > > replacing the fuel pump, spark plugs and wires, cleaning the intake,
> > > and possibly checking the piston rings. also, the compression was
> > > low, but it was built up using tranny fluid. i should say ive had a
> > > mechanic working on it, and he's the one who's been telling me all
> > > this. he agrees with all of what my friends said and that it would
> > > take work to get it going. already, the air filter, spark plugs, and
> > > fuel filter have been changed. the old fuel was flushed and new fuel
> > > is in there. i plan on changing the oil again. am i missing something
> > > here? i should mention that when the car is on, it idles rough. not
> > > BAD, but rough. any thoughts and/or suggestions greatly appreciated. > > > also, im a newbie when it comes to mechanics, so please be
> > > thorough with your explanations. thanks abunch guys
> >
> > Low compression could be caused by many things. You should check the
> > mechanical timing to make sure that it's correct. But it sounds like
> > your rings might be just a bit sticky since a wet compression test
> > showed an improvement. What were the actual wet/dry compression
> > numbers?
>
> ill see if i can get that later today. the mechanic is working right now.
>
> >
> > Your symptoms could also be consistent with a vacuum leak. Check all
> > of the
>
> friend i was just speaking with said the same thing, cept that the carb
> was put back on twice by the same person... so i dont think (i hope) its
> a leak.
That's all the more reason to suspect a possible vacuum leak. The person
doing this work may have overlooked something. In addition, when vacuum
hoses get old they become brittle and are fairly easy to break if they're
not treated with care when removing them.
>
> "Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:402C9C16.6060EF6A@spam.now...
> > agent smith wrote:
> > >
> > > ive aquired another one of these, and plan on learning how to repair > > > it. ive got the owners manual, but not the service manual (gonna
> > > order one friday if i can find one).
> >
> > http://www.helminc.com
> >
> > > question is this: the carb in this car has been cleaned and
> > > repaired using 2 existing carbs already. the gas tank has been
> > > 'sandblasted'.
> >
> > What exactly are you referring to? The outside of the tank or the
> > inside?
>
> both just to be safe. the mechanic said it had something inside called
> 'varnish' from sitting so long. thing is, few other people i talked with
> said you could add 'HEET" and clear out any water and possibly varnish in
> the gas tank. would the gas tank need replacing if it sat with fuel for
> so long?
You may need a new mechanic! Sandblasting the inside of a gas tank is
likely one of the wackiest things I've heard of yet. I would've gone for a
solvent approach as it would minimize the risk of leaving any grit behind
which could plug up and/or damage your carburetor or fuel pump.
> > > i should mention that the car did sit for ~4 years with
> > > the fuel in it. stabalizer was added, but i doubt it was enough. the
> > > car gets a spark, kicks on for ~5 minutes, then dies. takes ~10-20
> > > minutes to get it running again, then it dies (so i dont break
> > > anything, i havent turned it on since then). friends have suggested
> > > replacing the fuel pump, spark plugs and wires, cleaning the intake,
> > > and possibly checking the piston rings. also, the compression was
> > > low, but it was built up using tranny fluid. i should say ive had a
> > > mechanic working on it, and he's the one who's been telling me all
> > > this. he agrees with all of what my friends said and that it would
> > > take work to get it going. already, the air filter, spark plugs, and
> > > fuel filter have been changed. the old fuel was flushed and new fuel
> > > is in there. i plan on changing the oil again. am i missing something
> > > here? i should mention that when the car is on, it idles rough. not
> > > BAD, but rough. any thoughts and/or suggestions greatly appreciated. > > > also, im a newbie when it comes to mechanics, so please be
> > > thorough with your explanations. thanks abunch guys
> >
> > Low compression could be caused by many things. You should check the
> > mechanical timing to make sure that it's correct. But it sounds like
> > your rings might be just a bit sticky since a wet compression test
> > showed an improvement. What were the actual wet/dry compression
> > numbers?
>
> ill see if i can get that later today. the mechanic is working right now.
>
> >
> > Your symptoms could also be consistent with a vacuum leak. Check all
> > of the
>
> friend i was just speaking with said the same thing, cept that the carb
> was put back on twice by the same person... so i dont think (i hope) its
> a leak.
That's all the more reason to suspect a possible vacuum leak. The person
doing this work may have overlooked something. In addition, when vacuum
hoses get old they become brittle and are fairly easy to break if they're
not treated with care when removing them.
02-14-2004 | 08:03 AM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 CRX HF issue
agent smith wrote:
>
> "Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:402C9C16.6060EF6A@spam.now...
> > agent smith wrote:
> > >
> > > ive aquired another one of these, and plan on learning how to repair > > > it. ive got the owners manual, but not the service manual (gonna
> > > order one friday if i can find one).
> >
> > http://www.helminc.com
> >
> > > question is this: the carb in this car has been cleaned and
> > > repaired using 2 existing carbs already. the gas tank has been
> > > 'sandblasted'.
> >
> > What exactly are you referring to? The outside of the tank or the
> > inside?
>
> both just to be safe. the mechanic said it had something inside called
> 'varnish' from sitting so long. thing is, few other people i talked with
> said you could add 'HEET" and clear out any water and possibly varnish in
> the gas tank. would the gas tank need replacing if it sat with fuel for
> so long?
You may need a new mechanic! Sandblasting the inside of a gas tank is
likely one of the wackiest things I've heard of yet. I would've gone for a
solvent approach as it would minimize the risk of leaving any grit behind
which could plug up and/or damage your carburetor or fuel pump.
> > > i should mention that the car did sit for ~4 years with
> > > the fuel in it. stabalizer was added, but i doubt it was enough. the
> > > car gets a spark, kicks on for ~5 minutes, then dies. takes ~10-20
> > > minutes to get it running again, then it dies (so i dont break
> > > anything, i havent turned it on since then). friends have suggested
> > > replacing the fuel pump, spark plugs and wires, cleaning the intake,
> > > and possibly checking the piston rings. also, the compression was
> > > low, but it was built up using tranny fluid. i should say ive had a
> > > mechanic working on it, and he's the one who's been telling me all
> > > this. he agrees with all of what my friends said and that it would
> > > take work to get it going. already, the air filter, spark plugs, and
> > > fuel filter have been changed. the old fuel was flushed and new fuel
> > > is in there. i plan on changing the oil again. am i missing something
> > > here? i should mention that when the car is on, it idles rough. not
> > > BAD, but rough. any thoughts and/or suggestions greatly appreciated. > > > also, im a newbie when it comes to mechanics, so please be
> > > thorough with your explanations. thanks abunch guys
> >
> > Low compression could be caused by many things. You should check the
> > mechanical timing to make sure that it's correct. But it sounds like
> > your rings might be just a bit sticky since a wet compression test
> > showed an improvement. What were the actual wet/dry compression
> > numbers?
>
> ill see if i can get that later today. the mechanic is working right now.
>
> >
> > Your symptoms could also be consistent with a vacuum leak. Check all
> > of the
>
> friend i was just speaking with said the same thing, cept that the carb
> was put back on twice by the same person... so i dont think (i hope) its
> a leak.
That's all the more reason to suspect a possible vacuum leak. The person
doing this work may have overlooked something. In addition, when vacuum
hoses get old they become brittle and are fairly easy to break if they're
not treated with care when removing them.
>
> "Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:402C9C16.6060EF6A@spam.now...
> > agent smith wrote:
> > >
> > > ive aquired another one of these, and plan on learning how to repair > > > it. ive got the owners manual, but not the service manual (gonna
> > > order one friday if i can find one).
> >
> > http://www.helminc.com
> >
> > > question is this: the carb in this car has been cleaned and
> > > repaired using 2 existing carbs already. the gas tank has been
> > > 'sandblasted'.
> >
> > What exactly are you referring to? The outside of the tank or the
> > inside?
>
> both just to be safe. the mechanic said it had something inside called
> 'varnish' from sitting so long. thing is, few other people i talked with
> said you could add 'HEET" and clear out any water and possibly varnish in
> the gas tank. would the gas tank need replacing if it sat with fuel for
> so long?
You may need a new mechanic! Sandblasting the inside of a gas tank is
likely one of the wackiest things I've heard of yet. I would've gone for a
solvent approach as it would minimize the risk of leaving any grit behind
which could plug up and/or damage your carburetor or fuel pump.
> > > i should mention that the car did sit for ~4 years with
> > > the fuel in it. stabalizer was added, but i doubt it was enough. the
> > > car gets a spark, kicks on for ~5 minutes, then dies. takes ~10-20
> > > minutes to get it running again, then it dies (so i dont break
> > > anything, i havent turned it on since then). friends have suggested
> > > replacing the fuel pump, spark plugs and wires, cleaning the intake,
> > > and possibly checking the piston rings. also, the compression was
> > > low, but it was built up using tranny fluid. i should say ive had a
> > > mechanic working on it, and he's the one who's been telling me all
> > > this. he agrees with all of what my friends said and that it would
> > > take work to get it going. already, the air filter, spark plugs, and
> > > fuel filter have been changed. the old fuel was flushed and new fuel
> > > is in there. i plan on changing the oil again. am i missing something
> > > here? i should mention that when the car is on, it idles rough. not
> > > BAD, but rough. any thoughts and/or suggestions greatly appreciated. > > > also, im a newbie when it comes to mechanics, so please be
> > > thorough with your explanations. thanks abunch guys
> >
> > Low compression could be caused by many things. You should check the
> > mechanical timing to make sure that it's correct. But it sounds like
> > your rings might be just a bit sticky since a wet compression test
> > showed an improvement. What were the actual wet/dry compression
> > numbers?
>
> ill see if i can get that later today. the mechanic is working right now.
>
> >
> > Your symptoms could also be consistent with a vacuum leak. Check all
> > of the
>
> friend i was just speaking with said the same thing, cept that the carb
> was put back on twice by the same person... so i dont think (i hope) its
> a leak.
That's all the more reason to suspect a possible vacuum leak. The person
doing this work may have overlooked something. In addition, when vacuum
hoses get old they become brittle and are fairly easy to break if they're
not treated with care when removing them.
02-14-2004 | 08:27 AM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 CRX HF issue
I just bought my son the same car but his is the Si with fuel
injection. Had new CV joints, new tires, new paint. It had a problem
with overheating. I changed the thermostat, fan switch (which
wouldn't work at all) and finally the radiator cap which was leaking
out a little bit of coolant and getting hot every other time he drove
it.
The wierd thing is it just had a clutch job. Now the gearshift adn
clutch have a slight vibration to them at lower speeds.... whenever
you put it into a higher gear the vibration starts again until the
RPMs get above 1500. It almost sounds like a tooth missing from the
drive shaft connnecting the flywheel/pressure plate to the
transmission.
This car is SO much fun to drive though. I've bought both Chilton and
Haynes manuals. Each has their own strong points. Chiltons is more
the factory points and Haynes is the do-it-yourselfer. I'd love to
get a Factory manual but the price can be steep.
Good luck on your project. It sounds like you need to redo the whole
fuel system....pump, filters, lines. Pull off the line where ever
you have the most slack and look at the fitting. If you see something
which would make your cardiologist
cringe,,,,placque,,,,grunge,,,,,replace the whole fuel lines. I
restored a 68 Fastback and had the same problem....It was the crud
breaking off the lines as the bounced and clogging up and blocking
fuel flow.....
Good luck.
prime
On Fri, 13 Feb 2004 08:15:11 GMT, "agent smith"
<agentsmith@UNDIES.the-c0re.tk> wrote:
>ive aquired another one of these, and plan on learning how to repair it. ive
>got the owners manual, but not the service manual (gonna order one friday if
>i can find one). question is this: the carb in this car has been cleaned and
>repaired using 2 existing carbs already. the gas tank has been
>'sandblasted'. i should mention that the car did sit for ~4 years with the
>fuel in it. stabalizer was added, but i doubt it was enough. the car gets a
>spark, kicks on for ~5 minutes, then dies. takes ~10-20 minutes to get it
>running again, then it dies (so i dont break anything, i havent turned it on
>since then). friends have suggested replacing the fuel pump, spark plugs and
>wires, cleaning the intake, and possibly checking the piston rings. also,
>the compression was low, but it was built up using tranny fluid. i should
>say ive had a mechanic working on it, and he's the one who's been telling me
>all this. he agrees with all of what my friends said and that it would take
>work to get it going. already, the air filter, spark plugs, and fuel filter
>have been changed. the old fuel was flushed and new fuel is in there. i plan
>on changing the oil again. am i missing something here? i should mention
>that when the car is on, it idles rough. not BAD, but rough. any thoughts
>and/or suggestions greatly appreciated. also, im a newbie when it comes to
>mechanics, so please be thorough with your explanations. thanks abunch guys
>
>
>
>-agent smith
>
If you know where you're going
Well, there you are.
injection. Had new CV joints, new tires, new paint. It had a problem
with overheating. I changed the thermostat, fan switch (which
wouldn't work at all) and finally the radiator cap which was leaking
out a little bit of coolant and getting hot every other time he drove
it.
The wierd thing is it just had a clutch job. Now the gearshift adn
clutch have a slight vibration to them at lower speeds.... whenever
you put it into a higher gear the vibration starts again until the
RPMs get above 1500. It almost sounds like a tooth missing from the
drive shaft connnecting the flywheel/pressure plate to the
transmission.
This car is SO much fun to drive though. I've bought both Chilton and
Haynes manuals. Each has their own strong points. Chiltons is more
the factory points and Haynes is the do-it-yourselfer. I'd love to
get a Factory manual but the price can be steep.
Good luck on your project. It sounds like you need to redo the whole
fuel system....pump, filters, lines. Pull off the line where ever
you have the most slack and look at the fitting. If you see something
which would make your cardiologist
cringe,,,,placque,,,,grunge,,,,,replace the whole fuel lines. I
restored a 68 Fastback and had the same problem....It was the crud
breaking off the lines as the bounced and clogging up and blocking
fuel flow.....
Good luck.
prime
On Fri, 13 Feb 2004 08:15:11 GMT, "agent smith"
<agentsmith@UNDIES.the-c0re.tk> wrote:
>ive aquired another one of these, and plan on learning how to repair it. ive
>got the owners manual, but not the service manual (gonna order one friday if
>i can find one). question is this: the carb in this car has been cleaned and
>repaired using 2 existing carbs already. the gas tank has been
>'sandblasted'. i should mention that the car did sit for ~4 years with the
>fuel in it. stabalizer was added, but i doubt it was enough. the car gets a
>spark, kicks on for ~5 minutes, then dies. takes ~10-20 minutes to get it
>running again, then it dies (so i dont break anything, i havent turned it on
>since then). friends have suggested replacing the fuel pump, spark plugs and
>wires, cleaning the intake, and possibly checking the piston rings. also,
>the compression was low, but it was built up using tranny fluid. i should
>say ive had a mechanic working on it, and he's the one who's been telling me
>all this. he agrees with all of what my friends said and that it would take
>work to get it going. already, the air filter, spark plugs, and fuel filter
>have been changed. the old fuel was flushed and new fuel is in there. i plan
>on changing the oil again. am i missing something here? i should mention
>that when the car is on, it idles rough. not BAD, but rough. any thoughts
>and/or suggestions greatly appreciated. also, im a newbie when it comes to
>mechanics, so please be thorough with your explanations. thanks abunch guys
>
>
>
>-agent smith
>
If you know where you're going
Well, there you are.
02-14-2004 | 08:27 AM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 CRX HF issue
I just bought my son the same car but his is the Si with fuel
injection. Had new CV joints, new tires, new paint. It had a problem
with overheating. I changed the thermostat, fan switch (which
wouldn't work at all) and finally the radiator cap which was leaking
out a little bit of coolant and getting hot every other time he drove
it.
The wierd thing is it just had a clutch job. Now the gearshift adn
clutch have a slight vibration to them at lower speeds.... whenever
you put it into a higher gear the vibration starts again until the
RPMs get above 1500. It almost sounds like a tooth missing from the
drive shaft connnecting the flywheel/pressure plate to the
transmission.
This car is SO much fun to drive though. I've bought both Chilton and
Haynes manuals. Each has their own strong points. Chiltons is more
the factory points and Haynes is the do-it-yourselfer. I'd love to
get a Factory manual but the price can be steep.
Good luck on your project. It sounds like you need to redo the whole
fuel system....pump, filters, lines. Pull off the line where ever
you have the most slack and look at the fitting. If you see something
which would make your cardiologist
cringe,,,,placque,,,,grunge,,,,,replace the whole fuel lines. I
restored a 68 Fastback and had the same problem....It was the crud
breaking off the lines as the bounced and clogging up and blocking
fuel flow.....
Good luck.
prime
On Fri, 13 Feb 2004 08:15:11 GMT, "agent smith"
<agentsmith@UNDIES.the-c0re.tk> wrote:
>ive aquired another one of these, and plan on learning how to repair it. ive
>got the owners manual, but not the service manual (gonna order one friday if
>i can find one). question is this: the carb in this car has been cleaned and
>repaired using 2 existing carbs already. the gas tank has been
>'sandblasted'. i should mention that the car did sit for ~4 years with the
>fuel in it. stabalizer was added, but i doubt it was enough. the car gets a
>spark, kicks on for ~5 minutes, then dies. takes ~10-20 minutes to get it
>running again, then it dies (so i dont break anything, i havent turned it on
>since then). friends have suggested replacing the fuel pump, spark plugs and
>wires, cleaning the intake, and possibly checking the piston rings. also,
>the compression was low, but it was built up using tranny fluid. i should
>say ive had a mechanic working on it, and he's the one who's been telling me
>all this. he agrees with all of what my friends said and that it would take
>work to get it going. already, the air filter, spark plugs, and fuel filter
>have been changed. the old fuel was flushed and new fuel is in there. i plan
>on changing the oil again. am i missing something here? i should mention
>that when the car is on, it idles rough. not BAD, but rough. any thoughts
>and/or suggestions greatly appreciated. also, im a newbie when it comes to
>mechanics, so please be thorough with your explanations. thanks abunch guys
>
>
>
>-agent smith
>
If you know where you're going
Well, there you are.
injection. Had new CV joints, new tires, new paint. It had a problem
with overheating. I changed the thermostat, fan switch (which
wouldn't work at all) and finally the radiator cap which was leaking
out a little bit of coolant and getting hot every other time he drove
it.
The wierd thing is it just had a clutch job. Now the gearshift adn
clutch have a slight vibration to them at lower speeds.... whenever
you put it into a higher gear the vibration starts again until the
RPMs get above 1500. It almost sounds like a tooth missing from the
drive shaft connnecting the flywheel/pressure plate to the
transmission.
This car is SO much fun to drive though. I've bought both Chilton and
Haynes manuals. Each has their own strong points. Chiltons is more
the factory points and Haynes is the do-it-yourselfer. I'd love to
get a Factory manual but the price can be steep.
Good luck on your project. It sounds like you need to redo the whole
fuel system....pump, filters, lines. Pull off the line where ever
you have the most slack and look at the fitting. If you see something
which would make your cardiologist
cringe,,,,placque,,,,grunge,,,,,replace the whole fuel lines. I
restored a 68 Fastback and had the same problem....It was the crud
breaking off the lines as the bounced and clogging up and blocking
fuel flow.....
Good luck.
prime
On Fri, 13 Feb 2004 08:15:11 GMT, "agent smith"
<agentsmith@UNDIES.the-c0re.tk> wrote:
>ive aquired another one of these, and plan on learning how to repair it. ive
>got the owners manual, but not the service manual (gonna order one friday if
>i can find one). question is this: the carb in this car has been cleaned and
>repaired using 2 existing carbs already. the gas tank has been
>'sandblasted'. i should mention that the car did sit for ~4 years with the
>fuel in it. stabalizer was added, but i doubt it was enough. the car gets a
>spark, kicks on for ~5 minutes, then dies. takes ~10-20 minutes to get it
>running again, then it dies (so i dont break anything, i havent turned it on
>since then). friends have suggested replacing the fuel pump, spark plugs and
>wires, cleaning the intake, and possibly checking the piston rings. also,
>the compression was low, but it was built up using tranny fluid. i should
>say ive had a mechanic working on it, and he's the one who's been telling me
>all this. he agrees with all of what my friends said and that it would take
>work to get it going. already, the air filter, spark plugs, and fuel filter
>have been changed. the old fuel was flushed and new fuel is in there. i plan
>on changing the oil again. am i missing something here? i should mention
>that when the car is on, it idles rough. not BAD, but rough. any thoughts
>and/or suggestions greatly appreciated. also, im a newbie when it comes to
>mechanics, so please be thorough with your explanations. thanks abunch guys
>
>
>
>-agent smith
>
If you know where you're going
Well, there you are.
02-14-2004 | 08:27 AM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 CRX HF issue
I just bought my son the same car but his is the Si with fuel
injection. Had new CV joints, new tires, new paint. It had a problem
with overheating. I changed the thermostat, fan switch (which
wouldn't work at all) and finally the radiator cap which was leaking
out a little bit of coolant and getting hot every other time he drove
it.
The wierd thing is it just had a clutch job. Now the gearshift adn
clutch have a slight vibration to them at lower speeds.... whenever
you put it into a higher gear the vibration starts again until the
RPMs get above 1500. It almost sounds like a tooth missing from the
drive shaft connnecting the flywheel/pressure plate to the
transmission.
This car is SO much fun to drive though. I've bought both Chilton and
Haynes manuals. Each has their own strong points. Chiltons is more
the factory points and Haynes is the do-it-yourselfer. I'd love to
get a Factory manual but the price can be steep.
Good luck on your project. It sounds like you need to redo the whole
fuel system....pump, filters, lines. Pull off the line where ever
you have the most slack and look at the fitting. If you see something
which would make your cardiologist
cringe,,,,placque,,,,grunge,,,,,replace the whole fuel lines. I
restored a 68 Fastback and had the same problem....It was the crud
breaking off the lines as the bounced and clogging up and blocking
fuel flow.....
Good luck.
prime
On Fri, 13 Feb 2004 08:15:11 GMT, "agent smith"
<agentsmith@UNDIES.the-c0re.tk> wrote:
>ive aquired another one of these, and plan on learning how to repair it. ive
>got the owners manual, but not the service manual (gonna order one friday if
>i can find one). question is this: the carb in this car has been cleaned and
>repaired using 2 existing carbs already. the gas tank has been
>'sandblasted'. i should mention that the car did sit for ~4 years with the
>fuel in it. stabalizer was added, but i doubt it was enough. the car gets a
>spark, kicks on for ~5 minutes, then dies. takes ~10-20 minutes to get it
>running again, then it dies (so i dont break anything, i havent turned it on
>since then). friends have suggested replacing the fuel pump, spark plugs and
>wires, cleaning the intake, and possibly checking the piston rings. also,
>the compression was low, but it was built up using tranny fluid. i should
>say ive had a mechanic working on it, and he's the one who's been telling me
>all this. he agrees with all of what my friends said and that it would take
>work to get it going. already, the air filter, spark plugs, and fuel filter
>have been changed. the old fuel was flushed and new fuel is in there. i plan
>on changing the oil again. am i missing something here? i should mention
>that when the car is on, it idles rough. not BAD, but rough. any thoughts
>and/or suggestions greatly appreciated. also, im a newbie when it comes to
>mechanics, so please be thorough with your explanations. thanks abunch guys
>
>
>
>-agent smith
>
If you know where you're going
Well, there you are.
injection. Had new CV joints, new tires, new paint. It had a problem
with overheating. I changed the thermostat, fan switch (which
wouldn't work at all) and finally the radiator cap which was leaking
out a little bit of coolant and getting hot every other time he drove
it.
The wierd thing is it just had a clutch job. Now the gearshift adn
clutch have a slight vibration to them at lower speeds.... whenever
you put it into a higher gear the vibration starts again until the
RPMs get above 1500. It almost sounds like a tooth missing from the
drive shaft connnecting the flywheel/pressure plate to the
transmission.
This car is SO much fun to drive though. I've bought both Chilton and
Haynes manuals. Each has their own strong points. Chiltons is more
the factory points and Haynes is the do-it-yourselfer. I'd love to
get a Factory manual but the price can be steep.
Good luck on your project. It sounds like you need to redo the whole
fuel system....pump, filters, lines. Pull off the line where ever
you have the most slack and look at the fitting. If you see something
which would make your cardiologist
cringe,,,,placque,,,,grunge,,,,,replace the whole fuel lines. I
restored a 68 Fastback and had the same problem....It was the crud
breaking off the lines as the bounced and clogging up and blocking
fuel flow.....
Good luck.
prime
On Fri, 13 Feb 2004 08:15:11 GMT, "agent smith"
<agentsmith@UNDIES.the-c0re.tk> wrote:
>ive aquired another one of these, and plan on learning how to repair it. ive
>got the owners manual, but not the service manual (gonna order one friday if
>i can find one). question is this: the carb in this car has been cleaned and
>repaired using 2 existing carbs already. the gas tank has been
>'sandblasted'. i should mention that the car did sit for ~4 years with the
>fuel in it. stabalizer was added, but i doubt it was enough. the car gets a
>spark, kicks on for ~5 minutes, then dies. takes ~10-20 minutes to get it
>running again, then it dies (so i dont break anything, i havent turned it on
>since then). friends have suggested replacing the fuel pump, spark plugs and
>wires, cleaning the intake, and possibly checking the piston rings. also,
>the compression was low, but it was built up using tranny fluid. i should
>say ive had a mechanic working on it, and he's the one who's been telling me
>all this. he agrees with all of what my friends said and that it would take
>work to get it going. already, the air filter, spark plugs, and fuel filter
>have been changed. the old fuel was flushed and new fuel is in there. i plan
>on changing the oil again. am i missing something here? i should mention
>that when the car is on, it idles rough. not BAD, but rough. any thoughts
>and/or suggestions greatly appreciated. also, im a newbie when it comes to
>mechanics, so please be thorough with your explanations. thanks abunch guys
>
>
>
>-agent smith
>
If you know where you're going
Well, there you are.