Ok, I have a 1995 Honda Accord LX with 115K miles with a 5 speed clutch
living in NC.
Last year, I drove it into the shop because I could not get it in gear,
especially 1st, but reverse seemed to be all right.
The mechanic took the clutch all apart and could not find anything
wrong with it, and it worked. Unfortunately for me, the next day, he
told me that the clutch cylinder was leaking, and replaced both the
master and slave clutch cylinder for $800. About a month afterwards, I
was experiencing the same [but not as severe] problem, but it went
away. I think he said the work was guareenteed for a year, but he put
nothing in writting.
Now, about 14 months later, I am having the same problem, the car will
not let me push the clutch in gear, even reverse.
Should I have him look at it. Obviously, he will find something else
wrong with the clutch as well. This is my big question!!
The dillemma I have is that I have been sinking $1+K/year into this car
for the last five years. Some of it was to replace the timing belt at
70K as a preventative. Unfortunately, I let the dealer talk me into
replacing the fuel pump, also as a preventative measure. Does it need
that?
I had the exhaust worked on 3 times by 3 different mechanics, most of
them were crooks.
Last month, the breaks needed to be changed.
Three months ago, the CV joint and parts needed to be changed for $1K.
At what point do I just scrap the car? I guess I should have scrapped
it about a year ago.
BTW, the AC has a leak, which cost me another $20 to have the AC
recharged, not including the fact that I brought in my own coolant.
I remember looking at www.ebay.com for parts. I think I can get more
for the parts than at a junk yard, where I got $100 for a Plymoth Colt
'91 with a problem in the exhaust and a deterirating clutch?

 

Deodiaus wrote:
<snip sob>

dude, find a decent honest independent mechanic. they exist. at this
vehicle age, some expense is to be expected. once it's done, if the
repair is honest and competent, it should last another 10 years. $1000
per year is still cheaper than depreciation on a new vehicle.

and don't post this stuff to all those other irrelevant groups, like
alt.home.repair. pointless.

 

Deodiaus wrote:
<snip sob>

dude, find a decent honest independent mechanic. they exist. at this
vehicle age, some expense is to be expected. once it's done, if the
repair is honest and competent, it should last another 10 years. $1000
per year is still cheaper than depreciation on a new vehicle.

and don't post this stuff to all those other irrelevant groups, like
alt.home.repair. pointless.

 

Deodiaus wrote:
<snip sob>

dude, find a decent honest independent mechanic. they exist. at this
vehicle age, some expense is to be expected. once it's done, if the
repair is honest and competent, it should last another 10 years. $1000
per year is still cheaper than depreciation on a new vehicle.

and don't post this stuff to all those other irrelevant groups, like
alt.home.repair. pointless.

 

Deodiaus wrote:
<snip sob>

dude, find a decent honest independent mechanic. they exist. at this
vehicle age, some expense is to be expected. once it's done, if the
repair is honest and competent, it should last another 10 years. $1000
per year is still cheaper than depreciation on a new vehicle.

and don't post this stuff to all those other irrelevant groups, like
alt.home.repair. pointless.

 

Deodiaus wrote:
> Ok, I have a 1995 Honda Accord LX with 115K miles with a 5 speed clutch
> living in NC.

5 speed transaxle.

> Last year, I drove it into the shop because I could not get it in gear,
> especially 1st, but reverse seemed to be all right.
> The mechanic took the clutch all apart and could not find anything
> wrong with it, and it worked. Unfortunately for me, the next day, he
> told me that the clutch cylinder was leaking, and replaced both the
> master and slave clutch cylinder for $800.

Sounds high for a master and slave replacement, but a leak at either
*would* cause difficult engagement into gear.

> About a month afterwards, I
> was experiencing the same [but not as severe] problem, but it went
> away. I think he said the work was guareenteed for a year, but he put
> nothing in writting.
> Now, about 14 months later, I am having the same problem, the car will
> not let me push the clutch in gear, even reverse.

You push the shift lever to select gear(s). You push the clutch to
facilitate gear engagement. Which part wasn't moving properly, the
clutch pedal or the shift lever?

> Should I have him look at it. Obviously, he will find something else
> wrong with the clutch as well. This is my big question!!
> The dillemma I have is that I have been sinking $1+K/year into this car
> for the last five years. Some of it was to replace the timing belt at
> 70K as a preventative. Unfortunately, I let the dealer talk me into
> replacing the fuel pump, also as a preventative measure. Does it need
> that?

Any possibility they suggested you replace the *water* pump? Yes, a
water pump is a good idea to replace along with the timing belt on that
vehicle.

> I had the exhaust worked on 3 times by 3 different mechanics, most of
> them were crooks.

Unnecessary and biased info with no supporting argument.

> Last month, the breaks needed to be changed.

Likely the brakes. No surprise at ~115K miles.

> Three months ago, the CV joint and parts needed to be changed for $1K.

Too vague to comment on cost or likelyhood the parts should have
failed.

> At what point do I just scrap the car? I guess I should have scrapped
> it about a year ago.

A 1995 manual trans Accord with only 115k *could* be in great shape if
it was properly maintained. They are not money pits by design, rather
very reliable cars.

> BTW, the AC has a leak, which cost me another $20 to have the AC
> recharged, not including the fact that I brought in my own coolant.

Sounds scary. "my own coolant"? "$20"? How is this related?

> I remember looking at www.ebay.com for parts. I think I can get more
> for the parts than at a junk yard, where I got $100 for a Plymoth Colt
> '91 with a problem in the exhaust and a deterirating clutch?

What?

Toyota MDT in MO

 

Deodiaus wrote:
> Ok, I have a 1995 Honda Accord LX with 115K miles with a 5 speed clutch
> living in NC.

5 speed transaxle.

> Last year, I drove it into the shop because I could not get it in gear,
> especially 1st, but reverse seemed to be all right.
> The mechanic took the clutch all apart and could not find anything
> wrong with it, and it worked. Unfortunately for me, the next day, he
> told me that the clutch cylinder was leaking, and replaced both the
> master and slave clutch cylinder for $800.

Sounds high for a master and slave replacement, but a leak at either
*would* cause difficult engagement into gear.

> About a month afterwards, I
> was experiencing the same [but not as severe] problem, but it went
> away. I think he said the work was guareenteed for a year, but he put
> nothing in writting.
> Now, about 14 months later, I am having the same problem, the car will
> not let me push the clutch in gear, even reverse.

You push the shift lever to select gear(s). You push the clutch to
facilitate gear engagement. Which part wasn't moving properly, the
clutch pedal or the shift lever?

> Should I have him look at it. Obviously, he will find something else
> wrong with the clutch as well. This is my big question!!
> The dillemma I have is that I have been sinking $1+K/year into this car
> for the last five years. Some of it was to replace the timing belt at
> 70K as a preventative. Unfortunately, I let the dealer talk me into
> replacing the fuel pump, also as a preventative measure. Does it need
> that?

Any possibility they suggested you replace the *water* pump? Yes, a
water pump is a good idea to replace along with the timing belt on that
vehicle.

> I had the exhaust worked on 3 times by 3 different mechanics, most of
> them were crooks.

Unnecessary and biased info with no supporting argument.

> Last month, the breaks needed to be changed.

Likely the brakes. No surprise at ~115K miles.

> Three months ago, the CV joint and parts needed to be changed for $1K.

Too vague to comment on cost or likelyhood the parts should have
failed.

> At what point do I just scrap the car? I guess I should have scrapped
> it about a year ago.

A 1995 manual trans Accord with only 115k *could* be in great shape if
it was properly maintained. They are not money pits by design, rather
very reliable cars.

> BTW, the AC has a leak, which cost me another $20 to have the AC
> recharged, not including the fact that I brought in my own coolant.

Sounds scary. "my own coolant"? "$20"? How is this related?

> I remember looking at www.ebay.com for parts. I think I can get more
> for the parts than at a junk yard, where I got $100 for a Plymoth Colt
> '91 with a problem in the exhaust and a deterirating clutch?

What?

Toyota MDT in MO

 

Deodiaus wrote:
> Ok, I have a 1995 Honda Accord LX with 115K miles with a 5 speed clutch
> living in NC.

5 speed transaxle.

> Last year, I drove it into the shop because I could not get it in gear,
> especially 1st, but reverse seemed to be all right.
> The mechanic took the clutch all apart and could not find anything
> wrong with it, and it worked. Unfortunately for me, the next day, he
> told me that the clutch cylinder was leaking, and replaced both the
> master and slave clutch cylinder for $800.

Sounds high for a master and slave replacement, but a leak at either
*would* cause difficult engagement into gear.

> About a month afterwards, I
> was experiencing the same [but not as severe] problem, but it went
> away. I think he said the work was guareenteed for a year, but he put
> nothing in writting.
> Now, about 14 months later, I am having the same problem, the car will
> not let me push the clutch in gear, even reverse.

You push the shift lever to select gear(s). You push the clutch to
facilitate gear engagement. Which part wasn't moving properly, the
clutch pedal or the shift lever?

> Should I have him look at it. Obviously, he will find something else
> wrong with the clutch as well. This is my big question!!
> The dillemma I have is that I have been sinking $1+K/year into this car
> for the last five years. Some of it was to replace the timing belt at
> 70K as a preventative. Unfortunately, I let the dealer talk me into
> replacing the fuel pump, also as a preventative measure. Does it need
> that?

Any possibility they suggested you replace the *water* pump? Yes, a
water pump is a good idea to replace along with the timing belt on that
vehicle.

> I had the exhaust worked on 3 times by 3 different mechanics, most of
> them were crooks.

Unnecessary and biased info with no supporting argument.

> Last month, the breaks needed to be changed.

Likely the brakes. No surprise at ~115K miles.

> Three months ago, the CV joint and parts needed to be changed for $1K.

Too vague to comment on cost or likelyhood the parts should have
failed.

> At what point do I just scrap the car? I guess I should have scrapped
> it about a year ago.

A 1995 manual trans Accord with only 115k *could* be in great shape if
it was properly maintained. They are not money pits by design, rather
very reliable cars.

> BTW, the AC has a leak, which cost me another $20 to have the AC
> recharged, not including the fact that I brought in my own coolant.

Sounds scary. "my own coolant"? "$20"? How is this related?

> I remember looking at www.ebay.com for parts. I think I can get more
> for the parts than at a junk yard, where I got $100 for a Plymoth Colt
> '91 with a problem in the exhaust and a deterirating clutch?

What?

Toyota MDT in MO

 

Deodiaus wrote:
> Ok, I have a 1995 Honda Accord LX with 115K miles with a 5 speed clutch
> living in NC.

5 speed transaxle.

> Last year, I drove it into the shop because I could not get it in gear,
> especially 1st, but reverse seemed to be all right.
> The mechanic took the clutch all apart and could not find anything
> wrong with it, and it worked. Unfortunately for me, the next day, he
> told me that the clutch cylinder was leaking, and replaced both the
> master and slave clutch cylinder for $800.

Sounds high for a master and slave replacement, but a leak at either
*would* cause difficult engagement into gear.

> About a month afterwards, I
> was experiencing the same [but not as severe] problem, but it went
> away. I think he said the work was guareenteed for a year, but he put
> nothing in writting.
> Now, about 14 months later, I am having the same problem, the car will
> not let me push the clutch in gear, even reverse.

You push the shift lever to select gear(s). You push the clutch to
facilitate gear engagement. Which part wasn't moving properly, the
clutch pedal or the shift lever?

> Should I have him look at it. Obviously, he will find something else
> wrong with the clutch as well. This is my big question!!
> The dillemma I have is that I have been sinking $1+K/year into this car
> for the last five years. Some of it was to replace the timing belt at
> 70K as a preventative. Unfortunately, I let the dealer talk me into
> replacing the fuel pump, also as a preventative measure. Does it need
> that?

Any possibility they suggested you replace the *water* pump? Yes, a
water pump is a good idea to replace along with the timing belt on that
vehicle.

> I had the exhaust worked on 3 times by 3 different mechanics, most of
> them were crooks.

Unnecessary and biased info with no supporting argument.

> Last month, the breaks needed to be changed.

Likely the brakes. No surprise at ~115K miles.

> Three months ago, the CV joint and parts needed to be changed for $1K.

Too vague to comment on cost or likelyhood the parts should have
failed.

> At what point do I just scrap the car? I guess I should have scrapped
> it about a year ago.

A 1995 manual trans Accord with only 115k *could* be in great shape if
it was properly maintained. They are not money pits by design, rather
very reliable cars.

> BTW, the AC has a leak, which cost me another $20 to have the AC
> recharged, not including the fact that I brought in my own coolant.

Sounds scary. "my own coolant"? "$20"? How is this related?

> I remember looking at www.ebay.com for parts. I think I can get more
> for the parts than at a junk yard, where I got $100 for a Plymoth Colt
> '91 with a problem in the exhaust and a deterirating clutch?

What?

Toyota MDT in MO

 

I don't find $1k a year outrageous for car maintenance. My logic is;
what could I buy for $1k a year that I would like as well. I drive old
cars, my newest one is an '87 pickup. I seldom spend more that $1k per
year on any of them, but I can do my own repairs. Sounds to me like you
want a new car and are looking for support to justify the idea. As to
the E-bay idea, A car is always worth more for parts even when they are
brand new. When I worked at a dealership they took a new pickup apart
and sold it over the parts counter @ 4-5 times the retail of the truck.
But, it is a tremendous amount of work and if you are not mechanically
inclined enough to replace a clutch cylinder, how are you going to do
at taking one completely apart? I have problems getting things apart
sometimes, and I have a lift, torches, air tools and a lot of specialty
wrenches / tools.

 

I don't find $1k a year outrageous for car maintenance. My logic is;
what could I buy for $1k a year that I would like as well. I drive old
cars, my newest one is an '87 pickup. I seldom spend more that $1k per
year on any of them, but I can do my own repairs. Sounds to me like you
want a new car and are looking for support to justify the idea. As to
the E-bay idea, A car is always worth more for parts even when they are
brand new. When I worked at a dealership they took a new pickup apart
and sold it over the parts counter @ 4-5 times the retail of the truck.
But, it is a tremendous amount of work and if you are not mechanically
inclined enough to replace a clutch cylinder, how are you going to do
at taking one completely apart? I have problems getting things apart
sometimes, and I have a lift, torches, air tools and a lot of specialty
wrenches / tools.

 

I don't find $1k a year outrageous for car maintenance. My logic is;
what could I buy for $1k a year that I would like as well. I drive old
cars, my newest one is an '87 pickup. I seldom spend more that $1k per
year on any of them, but I can do my own repairs. Sounds to me like you
want a new car and are looking for support to justify the idea. As to
the E-bay idea, A car is always worth more for parts even when they are
brand new. When I worked at a dealership they took a new pickup apart
and sold it over the parts counter @ 4-5 times the retail of the truck.
But, it is a tremendous amount of work and if you are not mechanically
inclined enough to replace a clutch cylinder, how are you going to do
at taking one completely apart? I have problems getting things apart
sometimes, and I have a lift, torches, air tools and a lot of specialty
wrenches / tools.

 

I don't find $1k a year outrageous for car maintenance. My logic is;
what could I buy for $1k a year that I would like as well. I drive old
cars, my newest one is an '87 pickup. I seldom spend more that $1k per
year on any of them, but I can do my own repairs. Sounds to me like you
want a new car and are looking for support to justify the idea. As to
the E-bay idea, A car is always worth more for parts even when they are
brand new. When I worked at a dealership they took a new pickup apart
and sold it over the parts counter @ 4-5 times the retail of the truck.
But, it is a tremendous amount of work and if you are not mechanically
inclined enough to replace a clutch cylinder, how are you going to do
at taking one completely apart? I have problems getting things apart
sometimes, and I have a lift, torches, air tools and a lot of specialty
wrenches / tools.

 

Deodiaus wrote:
> Ok, I have a 1995 Honda Accord LX with 115K miles with a 5 speed clutch
> living in NC.
> Last year, I drove it into the shop because I could not get it in gear,
> especially 1st, but reverse seemed to be all right.
> The mechanic took the clutch all apart and could not find anything
> wrong with it, and it worked. Unfortunately for me, the next day, he
> told me that the clutch cylinder was leaking, and replaced both the
> master and slave clutch cylinder for $800. About a month afterwards, I
> was experiencing the same [but not as severe] problem, but it went
> away. I think he said the work was guareenteed for a year, but he put
> nothing in writting.
> Now, about 14 months later, I am having the same problem, the car will
> not let me push the clutch in gear, even reverse.
> Should I have him look at it. Obviously, he will find something else
> wrong with the clutch as well. This is my big question!!
> The dillemma I have is that I have been sinking $1+K/year into this car
> for the last five years. Some of it was to replace the timing belt at
> 70K as a preventative. Unfortunately, I let the dealer talk me into
> replacing the fuel pump, also as a preventative measure. Does it need
> that?
> I had the exhaust worked on 3 times by 3 different mechanics, most of
> them were crooks.
> Last month, the breaks needed to be changed.
> Three months ago, the CV joint and parts needed to be changed for $1K.
> At what point do I just scrap the car? I guess I should have scrapped
> it about a year ago.
> BTW, the AC has a leak, which cost me another $20 to have the AC
> recharged, not including the fact that I brought in my own coolant.
> I remember looking at www.ebay.com for parts. I think I can get more
> for the parts than at a junk yard, where I got $100 for a Plymoth Colt
> '91 with a problem in the exhaust and a deterirating clutch?

I'll give you $101 for the Accord if you deliver it.

 

Deodiaus wrote:
> Ok, I have a 1995 Honda Accord LX with 115K miles with a 5 speed clutch
> living in NC.
> Last year, I drove it into the shop because I could not get it in gear,
> especially 1st, but reverse seemed to be all right.
> The mechanic took the clutch all apart and could not find anything
> wrong with it, and it worked. Unfortunately for me, the next day, he
> told me that the clutch cylinder was leaking, and replaced both the
> master and slave clutch cylinder for $800. About a month afterwards, I
> was experiencing the same [but not as severe] problem, but it went
> away. I think he said the work was guareenteed for a year, but he put
> nothing in writting.
> Now, about 14 months later, I am having the same problem, the car will
> not let me push the clutch in gear, even reverse.
> Should I have him look at it. Obviously, he will find something else
> wrong with the clutch as well. This is my big question!!
> The dillemma I have is that I have been sinking $1+K/year into this car
> for the last five years. Some of it was to replace the timing belt at
> 70K as a preventative. Unfortunately, I let the dealer talk me into
> replacing the fuel pump, also as a preventative measure. Does it need
> that?
> I had the exhaust worked on 3 times by 3 different mechanics, most of
> them were crooks.
> Last month, the breaks needed to be changed.
> Three months ago, the CV joint and parts needed to be changed for $1K.
> At what point do I just scrap the car? I guess I should have scrapped
> it about a year ago.
> BTW, the AC has a leak, which cost me another $20 to have the AC
> recharged, not including the fact that I brought in my own coolant.
> I remember looking at www.ebay.com for parts. I think I can get more
> for the parts than at a junk yard, where I got $100 for a Plymoth Colt
> '91 with a problem in the exhaust and a deterirating clutch?

I'll give you $101 for the Accord if you deliver it.