Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov.> wrote in
news:Xns96C1C98B3E057jyanikkuanet@129.250.170.86:

> "hutchtoo" <hutchtoo@gmail.com> wrote in
> news:1125336241.867122.84170@g49g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com:
>

>> Distributor assy seems to be the top suspect
>> based on most of the feedback....
>>
>>
>
> Yes,but it's very easy to resolder the main relay and *eliminate* it
> as a source of trouble.Much easier than messing with the distributor.
>
> I note the others have you swapping parts right off the start.
> Parts cost money.
>


You mean me? You're right.

I forgot the most obvious method of temporarily fixing a moisture problem:
Wipe off the rotor and the inside of the distributor cap, wipe off all the
plug wires. Spray wires with WD-40 (don't wipe WD-40 off). Reinstall. If it
still won't start, then it's something else.

--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

"TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in
news:Xns96C1CEA23FB40tegger@207.14.113.17:

> Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov.> wrote in
> news:Xns96C1C98B3E057jyanikkuanet@129.250.170.86:

>>
>> I note the others have you swapping parts right off the start.
>> Parts cost money.
>>
>
>
> You mean me?

Not just you,and no offense meant to any of you.

The Honda main relay is such a common,frequent problem,and she DID say WARM
along with humid,and beginning with a cold start;sounded just like the MR
problem. It's a problem easily eliminated without new parts,IF one has the
tools and skillset.

I think you folks saw the words 'humid' and 'ignition'(which I took to
meaning "not firing up",or starting),and put together -ignition problems-
(no spark),which IMO,are a bit less common than the relay problem.

I also think that if it were ignition problems,the 'starting' would be a
bit rough,like misfiring,where she said it just cranked and didn't start.

I still could be wrong,and you folks could be right,though.

I just read it a little differently.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov.> wrote in message news:Xns96C1C98B3E057jyanikkuanet@129.250.170.86.. .
> "hutchtoo" <hutchtoo@gmail.com> wrote in
> news:1125336241.867122.84170@g49g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com:


> Yes,but it's very easy to resolder the main relay and *eliminate* it as a
> source of trouble.Much easier than messing with the distributor.

Easy to solder, but not easy to remove it from inside the dash.

 

"'Curly Q. Links'" <motsco__@interbaun.com> wrote in message news:43132BC0.3D698C36@interbaun.com...

> Hutchtoo,
> Don't go off pursuing any untamed ornithoids. (wild goose chase).
> Electronic components don't fail overnight. Spark plugs don't get fouled
> overnight. We had the same problem on our Odyssey. One morning it just
> wouldn't start. Spun good, but no start.

The OP's problem is due to moisture from his climate change. Leaky
injectors would leak wet or dry, no?

The OP should check for sparks and observe the smoke from the
tailpipe to fill us in to real nature of the problem.

 

"hutchtoo" <hutchtoo@gmail.com> wrote in message news:1125335673.543774.164870@f14g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> Thanks all, this is great info.
> I'll definitely try the 15-second test before replacing the distributor
> parts.
> I got this car in Nov 1994 and suspect most of these parts are nearly
> that old -- other than the plugs.
> Any recommendations on sources for original Honda parts? I prefer go to
> local shops like Lappens and NAPA, which mostly sell 3d party parts
> like Beck Arnley distributor parts.
> Thanks again.

The genuine distributor cap seal is about a dollar and last much longer.
Napa probably sell an aftermarket one for $3. Only replace it when the
seal feels stiff, cracking or flattened. Dielectric grease is about $3 to $5
at Napa. A rag to wipe out the moisture is free. Wipe everything from
coil to the spark plugs. WD-40 will also absorb the moisture.

Remove the spark plug wire from the socket and apply a small amount of
dielectric tune up grease to the insulator, apply some to the distributor
cap where there are gaps.

Use your finger to the dielectric grease around the ceramic
portion of the spark plug to help maintain a dry environment for the
plugs. If you need help go here.

http://www.techguys.ca/howto/spark_plugs.html

For the paranoid, spray a silicone film on the plug wires and cap to further
insulate from moisture.

 

"B Squareman" <Squareman@none.com> wrote in
news:U3SQe.967$nB6.321@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com:

> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov.> wrote in message
> news:Xns96C1C98B3E057jyanikkuanet@129.250.170.86.. .
>> "hutchtoo" <hutchtoo@gmail.com> wrote in
>> news:1125336241.867122.84170@g49g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com:
>
>
>> Yes,but it's very easy to resolder the main relay and *eliminate* it
>> as a source of trouble.Much easier than messing with the distributor.
>
> Easy to solder, but not easy to remove it from inside the dash.
>
>

It is if you remove the knee bolster.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelay.html


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

>> Yes,but it's very easy to resolder the main relay and *eliminate* it as a
>> source of trouble.Much easier than messing with the distributor.
>
> Easy to solder, but not easy to remove it from inside the dash.
>

That's the problem. Not too hard to find but really tough to extract. I'm
going to have to go spend at least $20+ on wrench extensions to get this
thing out...

 

>
> It is if you remove the knee bolster.
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelay.html
>

Even with the bolster out, in the 94 civic there are other parts that
prevent me from using my normal wrench. The main relay (I assume this is it,
looks like the pictures on the page above) is to the left of the fusebox,
wedged up against the left above the hood latch in a tight spot.

 

Jim Yanik wrote:
> "TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in
> news:Xns96C1CEA23FB40tegger@207.14.113.17:
>
> > Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov.> wrote in
> > news:Xns96C1C98B3E057jyanikkuanet@129.250.170.86:
>
> >>
> >> I note the others have you swapping parts right off the start.
> >> Parts cost money.
> >>
> >
> >
> > You mean me?
>
> Not just you,and no offense meant to any of you.
>
> The Honda main relay is such a common,frequent problem,and she DID say WARM
> along with humid,and beginning with a cold start;sounded just like the MR
> problem. It's a problem easily eliminated without new parts,IF one has the
> tools and skillset.
>
> I think you folks saw the words 'humid' and 'ignition'(which I took to
> meaning "not firing up",or starting),and put together -ignition problems-
> (no spark),which IMO,are a bit less common than the relay problem.
>
> I also think that if it were ignition problems,the 'starting' would be a
> bit rough,like misfiring,where she said it just cranked and didn't start.
>
> I still could be wrong,and you folks could be right,though.
>
> I just read it a little differently.
>
> --
> Jim Yanik
> jyanik
> at
> kua.net

When I saw the words humid and ignition, I asked if he had spark or
even a weak one. Usually my answers go like "does it do this?", "If so,
check this..".

Since he then asked about OEM vs aftermarket parts, it was my (and
probably everyone's) conclusion that he lost spark.

Humidity is actually a fairly common cause of a no-start. He could have
easily have a cracked cap. Replacing this components periodically,
especially if they've never been replaced, is just good maintenance.

To just swap parts is expensive but I don't think that was suggested.

Remco

 

hutchtoo wrote:
>
> >
> > It is if you remove the knee bolster.
> > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelay.html
> >
>
> Even with the bolster out, in the 94 civic there are other parts that
> prevent me from using my normal wrench. The main relay (I assume this is it,
> looks like the pictures on the page above) is to the left of the fusebox,
> wedged up against the left above the hood latch in a tight spot.

There is a trick to it; Don't try to unbolt the relay. Rather, pull the
guts out of it while the housing is still in place. Then you can
resolder and re-install, or you can put the guts from a new replacement
relay into the old housing.

--
================================================== =====
A very modest collection of Honda tech info can be found at:
http://www.geocities.com/ng_randolph

 

"Remco" <whybcuz@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:1125407496.432222.49930@o13g2000cwo.googlegro ups.com:

> Jim Yanik wrote:
>> "TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in
>> news:Xns96C1CEA23FB40tegger@207.14.113.17:
>>
>> > Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov.> wrote in
>> > news:Xns96C1C98B3E057jyanikkuanet@129.250.170.86:
>>
>> >>
>> >> I note the others have you swapping parts right off the start.
>> >> Parts cost money.
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> > You mean me?
>>
>> Not just you,and no offense meant to any of you.
>>
>> The Honda main relay is such a common,frequent problem,and she DID
>> say WA
> RM
>> along with humid,and beginning with a cold start;sounded just like
>> the MR problem. It's a problem easily eliminated without new parts,IF
>> one has the tools and skillset.
>>
>> I think you folks saw the words 'humid' and 'ignition'(which I took
>> to meaning "not firing up",or starting),and put together -ignition
>> problems- (no spark),which IMO,are a bit less common than the relay
>> problem.
>>
>> I also think that if it were ignition problems,the 'starting' would
>> be a bit rough,like misfiring,where she said it just cranked and
>> didn't start.
>>
>> I still could be wrong,and you folks could be right,though.
>>
>> I just read it a little differently.
>>
>> --
>> Jim Yanik
>> jyanik
>> at
>> kua.net
>
> When I saw the words humid and ignition, I asked if he had spark or
> even a weak one. Usually my answers go like "does it do this?", "If
> so, check this..".
>
> Since he then asked about OEM vs aftermarket parts, it was my (and
> probably everyone's) conclusion that he lost spark.
>
> Humidity is actually a fairly common cause of a no-start.

Not a total,crank-to-death no-cylinder-firing no-start,but a
stumbling,erratic misfiring no-start.I didn't get that from his post.

> He could
> have easily have a cracked cap. Replacing this components
> periodically, especially if they've never been replaced, is just good
> maintenance.
>
> To just swap parts is expensive but I don't think that was suggested.
>
> Remco
>
>



--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

"B Squareman" <Squareman@none.com> wrote in
news:V3SQe.969$nB6.83@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com:

> "'Curly Q. Links'" <motsco__@interbaun.com> wrote in message
> news:43132BC0.3D698C36@interbaun.com...
>
>> Hutchtoo,
>> Don't go off pursuing any untamed ornithoids. (wild goose chase).
>> Electronic components don't fail overnight. Spark plugs don't get
>> fouled overnight. We had the same problem on our Odyssey. One morning
>> it just wouldn't start. Spun good, but no start.

Here he gives a slightly better description;"spun good",but no start.
He didn't mention any misfiring like one would get if there were leaking
spark impulses.

"spun good" but not starting is a typical failed MR indicator.
>
> The OP's problem is due to moisture from his climate change.

Says who? the OP didn't give any indication of leaking HV like misfiring or
stumbling,only "no start" which doesn't describe anything.

> Leaky
> injectors would leak wet or dry, no?
>
> The OP should check for sparks and observe the smoke from the
> tailpipe to fill us in to real nature of the problem.
>

Smoke would indicate that some cylinders were igniting,at least part of the
time,and there would be misfiring and stumbling in trying to start it.



--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

Randolph <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in
news:43147531.669463FB@junkmail.com:

> hutchtoo wrote:
>>
>> >
>> > It is if you remove the knee bolster.
>> > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelay.html
>> >
>>
>> Even with the bolster out, in the 94 civic there are other parts that
>> prevent me from using my normal wrench. The main relay (I assume this
>> is it, looks like the pictures on the page above) is to the left of
>> the fusebox, wedged up against the left above the hood latch in a
>> tight spot.
>
> There is a trick to it; Don't try to unbolt the relay. Rather, pull
> the guts out of it while the housing is still in place. Then you can
> resolder and re-install, or you can put the guts from a new
> replacement relay into the old housing.
>



Can anyone send me a photo of a relay that's in that location? I'd like to
add it to the relevant FAQ page to complement the pics that are there now.

--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

> Can anyone send me a photo of a relay that's in that location? I'd like to
> add it to the relevant FAQ page to complement the pics that are there now.

Tegger, I emailed you a photo from my 94 civic. Let me know if you need a
re-send.

 

It could be the fuel pump. My '90 Accord did the same exact thing a couple
years ago.

Josh
http://www.pingeek.com pinball stuff

"hutchtoo" <hutchtoo@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:6J-dndYBbPb2aY_eRVn-hg@rcn.net...
> Hi,
>
> My 94 Honda Civic EX automatic will not start. It has plenty of battery
> juice, and turns over, just no ignition. Any recommendations? I'd like to
> try to fix this without going into a shop.
>
> Related info:
> It's very humid, rainy.
> This happened a once couple months ago, and seemed to resolv itself w/o
> repair.
>
> Thanks.
>