1991 timing belt question
#16
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Re: 1991 timing belt question
Elle wrote:
>
> You just install everything loosely in order to get the
> crankshaft sprocket "in synch" with the camshaft sprocket.
> Then, yes, it all comes off again to get the belt on.
>
Why create extra work for yourself? With all the timing belts I've done
over the years, I've never had to do that. Just set the crank so that
keyway notch is as close to up as you can get it, put the belt and lower
covers on, the cam should be aligned by the pulley markings, once you get
the lower cover and crank pulley on fine tune the crank's position, then
pull the belt up over the cam pulley, adjust the belt tension (there's an
access hole in the lower cover), spin the engine over by hand a couple of
revolutions and recheck the timing marks, and be done with it. There's no
need to remove the lower cover once you get the new belt on, nor have I ever
found it necessary to put marks on the belt or pulleys. I also usually
recheck the ignition timing once the car warms up. If it was OK with the
old belt, then it should be OK with new belt. A degree of difference might
be attributable to belt stretch, but it'll be much worse if you've skipped a
tooth. I usually find no change in the ignition timing if the belt was
installed correctly.
Eric
>
> You just install everything loosely in order to get the
> crankshaft sprocket "in synch" with the camshaft sprocket.
> Then, yes, it all comes off again to get the belt on.
>
Why create extra work for yourself? With all the timing belts I've done
over the years, I've never had to do that. Just set the crank so that
keyway notch is as close to up as you can get it, put the belt and lower
covers on, the cam should be aligned by the pulley markings, once you get
the lower cover and crank pulley on fine tune the crank's position, then
pull the belt up over the cam pulley, adjust the belt tension (there's an
access hole in the lower cover), spin the engine over by hand a couple of
revolutions and recheck the timing marks, and be done with it. There's no
need to remove the lower cover once you get the new belt on, nor have I ever
found it necessary to put marks on the belt or pulleys. I also usually
recheck the ignition timing once the car warms up. If it was OK with the
old belt, then it should be OK with new belt. A degree of difference might
be attributable to belt stretch, but it'll be much worse if you've skipped a
tooth. I usually find no change in the ignition timing if the belt was
installed correctly.
Eric
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1991 timing belt question
Elle wrote:
>
> You just install everything loosely in order to get the
> crankshaft sprocket "in synch" with the camshaft sprocket.
> Then, yes, it all comes off again to get the belt on.
>
Why create extra work for yourself? With all the timing belts I've done
over the years, I've never had to do that. Just set the crank so that
keyway notch is as close to up as you can get it, put the belt and lower
covers on, the cam should be aligned by the pulley markings, once you get
the lower cover and crank pulley on fine tune the crank's position, then
pull the belt up over the cam pulley, adjust the belt tension (there's an
access hole in the lower cover), spin the engine over by hand a couple of
revolutions and recheck the timing marks, and be done with it. There's no
need to remove the lower cover once you get the new belt on, nor have I ever
found it necessary to put marks on the belt or pulleys. I also usually
recheck the ignition timing once the car warms up. If it was OK with the
old belt, then it should be OK with new belt. A degree of difference might
be attributable to belt stretch, but it'll be much worse if you've skipped a
tooth. I usually find no change in the ignition timing if the belt was
installed correctly.
Eric
>
> You just install everything loosely in order to get the
> crankshaft sprocket "in synch" with the camshaft sprocket.
> Then, yes, it all comes off again to get the belt on.
>
Why create extra work for yourself? With all the timing belts I've done
over the years, I've never had to do that. Just set the crank so that
keyway notch is as close to up as you can get it, put the belt and lower
covers on, the cam should be aligned by the pulley markings, once you get
the lower cover and crank pulley on fine tune the crank's position, then
pull the belt up over the cam pulley, adjust the belt tension (there's an
access hole in the lower cover), spin the engine over by hand a couple of
revolutions and recheck the timing marks, and be done with it. There's no
need to remove the lower cover once you get the new belt on, nor have I ever
found it necessary to put marks on the belt or pulleys. I also usually
recheck the ignition timing once the car warms up. If it was OK with the
old belt, then it should be OK with new belt. A degree of difference might
be attributable to belt stretch, but it'll be much worse if you've skipped a
tooth. I usually find no change in the ignition timing if the belt was
installed correctly.
Eric
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