1990 Accord LX Misfire Problem
12-12-2006 | 09:24 AM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1990 Accord LX Misfire Problem
Eric wrote:
> Heathen wrote:
>> OK, nevermind... I�m a moron.
>>
>> After figuring out what was the water temp gauge sensor, the water
>> temp for the ecm sensor, and thoroughly checking all the wires and
>> connectors around there, I noticed that with my head close to the
>> valve cover, I could hear a faint clicking sound when the engine was
>> stumbling at idle... plug wire!
>>
>> I had just replaced the wires about a year ago and probably haven�t
>> put more than 6k miles on the car since then, so I really thought they
>> were good... good enough to disregard them as the culprit and good
>> enough to say I had changed them
>>
>> Cylinder 4 plug wire was arcing through the plug boot, down at the
>> plug. I was able to pull the upper part of the boot back and see the
>> pretty light show down in the hole. I put a few wraps of Super 33
>> electrical tape around the boot, put it back in, and the car runs
>> fine. I�ll be buying a new set of wires tomorrow.
>>
>> I really thought the problem had something directly to do with the
>> radiator swap!
>>
>> Sometimes the obvious is just not obvious enough.
>>
>
> Get either Honda OEM plug wires or NGK. I've had good experiences with both
> on other models. OEM wires are typically good for about 100K miles. The
> oil in the distributor suggests that the distributor seal is starting to
> fail. The seal is not available separately but an inexpensive repair might
> be to find a decent looking used distributor (you'll probably want to swap
> over your current ignitor and coil). In addition, the oil in the bottom of
> the spark plug holes could be a problem if there's enough to get on the new
> plug wires. Fixing this problem requires you to remove the rocker arm
> assembly
most unlikely it's that seal - change the "b" seals that come with the
rocker cover first - they are the ones that usually leak.
> and replace the seal rings between the head and the cam towers.
those are the ones.
> This diagram, http://tinyurl.com/ykhxjv, is for a'90 LX 4 Dr with AT and the
> part I'm referring to is #19. You should do all four of them and also
> replace the cam seal and the distributor o-ring as well. You can access a
> copy of the factory service manual at http://tinyurl.com/ykq4gl (though I
> wasn't able to locate the section for removing the rocker arms). One of the
> more prominent tips is to not remove the cam tower bolts from the rocker arm
> assembly when you remove it from the cylinder head. This keeps the assembly
> together and prevents mixing up the rocker arms so they stay associated with
> the same cam lobes. Another tip for success is to use just a bit of ultra
> grey silicone at the four corners of the rocker arm assembly to ensure that
> there isn't any oil seepage from between the outer two cam towers and the
> head.
silicone will stop any leakage, but the best sealant in this application
is the non-setting type. it's a stiff plastic paste. personally, i
don't bother with sealant and the gaskets hold just fine.
> Heathen wrote:
>> OK, nevermind... I�m a moron.
>>
>> After figuring out what was the water temp gauge sensor, the water
>> temp for the ecm sensor, and thoroughly checking all the wires and
>> connectors around there, I noticed that with my head close to the
>> valve cover, I could hear a faint clicking sound when the engine was
>> stumbling at idle... plug wire!
>>
>> I had just replaced the wires about a year ago and probably haven�t
>> put more than 6k miles on the car since then, so I really thought they
>> were good... good enough to disregard them as the culprit and good
>> enough to say I had changed them
>>
>> Cylinder 4 plug wire was arcing through the plug boot, down at the
>> plug. I was able to pull the upper part of the boot back and see the
>> pretty light show down in the hole. I put a few wraps of Super 33
>> electrical tape around the boot, put it back in, and the car runs
>> fine. I�ll be buying a new set of wires tomorrow.
>>
>> I really thought the problem had something directly to do with the
>> radiator swap!
>>
>> Sometimes the obvious is just not obvious enough.
>>
>
> Get either Honda OEM plug wires or NGK. I've had good experiences with both
> on other models. OEM wires are typically good for about 100K miles. The
> oil in the distributor suggests that the distributor seal is starting to
> fail. The seal is not available separately but an inexpensive repair might
> be to find a decent looking used distributor (you'll probably want to swap
> over your current ignitor and coil). In addition, the oil in the bottom of
> the spark plug holes could be a problem if there's enough to get on the new
> plug wires. Fixing this problem requires you to remove the rocker arm
> assembly
most unlikely it's that seal - change the "b" seals that come with the
rocker cover first - they are the ones that usually leak.
> and replace the seal rings between the head and the cam towers.
those are the ones.
> This diagram, http://tinyurl.com/ykhxjv, is for a'90 LX 4 Dr with AT and the
> part I'm referring to is #19. You should do all four of them and also
> replace the cam seal and the distributor o-ring as well. You can access a
> copy of the factory service manual at http://tinyurl.com/ykq4gl (though I
> wasn't able to locate the section for removing the rocker arms). One of the
> more prominent tips is to not remove the cam tower bolts from the rocker arm
> assembly when you remove it from the cylinder head. This keeps the assembly
> together and prevents mixing up the rocker arms so they stay associated with
> the same cam lobes. Another tip for success is to use just a bit of ultra
> grey silicone at the four corners of the rocker arm assembly to ensure that
> there isn't any oil seepage from between the outer two cam towers and the
> head.
silicone will stop any leakage, but the best sealant in this application
is the non-setting type. it's a stiff plastic paste. personally, i
don't bother with sealant and the gaskets hold just fine.
12-12-2006 | 09:24 AM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1990 Accord LX Misfire Problem
Eric wrote:
> Heathen wrote:
>> OK, nevermind... I�m a moron.
>>
>> After figuring out what was the water temp gauge sensor, the water
>> temp for the ecm sensor, and thoroughly checking all the wires and
>> connectors around there, I noticed that with my head close to the
>> valve cover, I could hear a faint clicking sound when the engine was
>> stumbling at idle... plug wire!
>>
>> I had just replaced the wires about a year ago and probably haven�t
>> put more than 6k miles on the car since then, so I really thought they
>> were good... good enough to disregard them as the culprit and good
>> enough to say I had changed them
>>
>> Cylinder 4 plug wire was arcing through the plug boot, down at the
>> plug. I was able to pull the upper part of the boot back and see the
>> pretty light show down in the hole. I put a few wraps of Super 33
>> electrical tape around the boot, put it back in, and the car runs
>> fine. I�ll be buying a new set of wires tomorrow.
>>
>> I really thought the problem had something directly to do with the
>> radiator swap!
>>
>> Sometimes the obvious is just not obvious enough.
>>
>
> Get either Honda OEM plug wires or NGK. I've had good experiences with both
> on other models. OEM wires are typically good for about 100K miles. The
> oil in the distributor suggests that the distributor seal is starting to
> fail. The seal is not available separately but an inexpensive repair might
> be to find a decent looking used distributor (you'll probably want to swap
> over your current ignitor and coil). In addition, the oil in the bottom of
> the spark plug holes could be a problem if there's enough to get on the new
> plug wires. Fixing this problem requires you to remove the rocker arm
> assembly
most unlikely it's that seal - change the "b" seals that come with the
rocker cover first - they are the ones that usually leak.
> and replace the seal rings between the head and the cam towers.
those are the ones.
> This diagram, http://tinyurl.com/ykhxjv, is for a'90 LX 4 Dr with AT and the
> part I'm referring to is #19. You should do all four of them and also
> replace the cam seal and the distributor o-ring as well. You can access a
> copy of the factory service manual at http://tinyurl.com/ykq4gl (though I
> wasn't able to locate the section for removing the rocker arms). One of the
> more prominent tips is to not remove the cam tower bolts from the rocker arm
> assembly when you remove it from the cylinder head. This keeps the assembly
> together and prevents mixing up the rocker arms so they stay associated with
> the same cam lobes. Another tip for success is to use just a bit of ultra
> grey silicone at the four corners of the rocker arm assembly to ensure that
> there isn't any oil seepage from between the outer two cam towers and the
> head.
silicone will stop any leakage, but the best sealant in this application
is the non-setting type. it's a stiff plastic paste. personally, i
don't bother with sealant and the gaskets hold just fine.
> Heathen wrote:
>> OK, nevermind... I�m a moron.
>>
>> After figuring out what was the water temp gauge sensor, the water
>> temp for the ecm sensor, and thoroughly checking all the wires and
>> connectors around there, I noticed that with my head close to the
>> valve cover, I could hear a faint clicking sound when the engine was
>> stumbling at idle... plug wire!
>>
>> I had just replaced the wires about a year ago and probably haven�t
>> put more than 6k miles on the car since then, so I really thought they
>> were good... good enough to disregard them as the culprit and good
>> enough to say I had changed them
>>
>> Cylinder 4 plug wire was arcing through the plug boot, down at the
>> plug. I was able to pull the upper part of the boot back and see the
>> pretty light show down in the hole. I put a few wraps of Super 33
>> electrical tape around the boot, put it back in, and the car runs
>> fine. I�ll be buying a new set of wires tomorrow.
>>
>> I really thought the problem had something directly to do with the
>> radiator swap!
>>
>> Sometimes the obvious is just not obvious enough.
>>
>
> Get either Honda OEM plug wires or NGK. I've had good experiences with both
> on other models. OEM wires are typically good for about 100K miles. The
> oil in the distributor suggests that the distributor seal is starting to
> fail. The seal is not available separately but an inexpensive repair might
> be to find a decent looking used distributor (you'll probably want to swap
> over your current ignitor and coil). In addition, the oil in the bottom of
> the spark plug holes could be a problem if there's enough to get on the new
> plug wires. Fixing this problem requires you to remove the rocker arm
> assembly
most unlikely it's that seal - change the "b" seals that come with the
rocker cover first - they are the ones that usually leak.
> and replace the seal rings between the head and the cam towers.
those are the ones.
> This diagram, http://tinyurl.com/ykhxjv, is for a'90 LX 4 Dr with AT and the
> part I'm referring to is #19. You should do all four of them and also
> replace the cam seal and the distributor o-ring as well. You can access a
> copy of the factory service manual at http://tinyurl.com/ykq4gl (though I
> wasn't able to locate the section for removing the rocker arms). One of the
> more prominent tips is to not remove the cam tower bolts from the rocker arm
> assembly when you remove it from the cylinder head. This keeps the assembly
> together and prevents mixing up the rocker arms so they stay associated with
> the same cam lobes. Another tip for success is to use just a bit of ultra
> grey silicone at the four corners of the rocker arm assembly to ensure that
> there isn't any oil seepage from between the outer two cam towers and the
> head.
silicone will stop any leakage, but the best sealant in this application
is the non-setting type. it's a stiff plastic paste. personally, i
don't bother with sealant and the gaskets hold just fine.
12-12-2006 | 06:04 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1990 Accord LX Misfire Problem
jim beam wrote:
>
> Eric wrote:
> > Heathen wrote:
> >> OK, nevermind... I'm a moron.
> >>
> >> After figuring out what was the water temp gauge sensor, the water
> >> temp for the ecm sensor, and thoroughly checking all the wires and
> >> connectors around there, I noticed that with my head close to the
> >> valve cover, I could hear a faint clicking sound when the engine was
> >> stumbling at idle... plug wire!
> >>
> >> I had just replaced the wires about a year ago and probably haven�t
> >> put more than 6k miles on the car since then, so I really thought they
> >> were good... good enough to disregard them as the culprit and good
> >> enough to say I had changed them
> >>
> >> Cylinder 4 plug wire was arcing through the plug boot, down at the
> >> plug. I was able to pull the upper part of the boot back and see the
> >> pretty light show down in the hole. I put a few wraps of Super 33
> >> electrical tape around the boot, put it back in, and the car runs
> >> fine. I�ll be buying a new set of wires tomorrow.
> >>
> >> I really thought the problem had something directly to do with the
> >> radiator swap!
> >>
> >> Sometimes the obvious is just not obvious enough.
> >>
> >
> > Get either Honda OEM plug wires or NGK. I've had good experiences with
> > both on other models. OEM wires are typically good for about 100K
> > miles. The oil in the distributor suggests that the distributor seal is
> > starting to fail. The seal is not available separately but an
> > inexpensive repair might be to find a decent looking used distributor
> > (you'll probably want to swap over your current ignitor and coil). In
> > addition, the oil in the bottom of the spark plug holes could be a
> > problem if there's enough to get on the new plug wires. Fixing this
> > problem requires you to remove the rocker arm assembly
>
> most unlikely it's that seal - change the "b" seals that come with the
> rocker cover first - they are the ones that usually leak.
>
Thanks for catching my oversight. The upper spark plug tube seals should
always be replaced first. Replacing these seals will usually fix the oil
leak and the lower seals should not be touched unless the oil leak continues
even after replacing the upper spark plug tube seals. The upper tube seals
are part #4 in this diagram http://tinyurl.com/y5fz89 and they don't need
any ultra grey silicone to seal, just make sure that they sealing surfaces
are clean.
Eric
>
> Eric wrote:
> > Heathen wrote:
> >> OK, nevermind... I'm a moron.
> >>
> >> After figuring out what was the water temp gauge sensor, the water
> >> temp for the ecm sensor, and thoroughly checking all the wires and
> >> connectors around there, I noticed that with my head close to the
> >> valve cover, I could hear a faint clicking sound when the engine was
> >> stumbling at idle... plug wire!
> >>
> >> I had just replaced the wires about a year ago and probably haven�t
> >> put more than 6k miles on the car since then, so I really thought they
> >> were good... good enough to disregard them as the culprit and good
> >> enough to say I had changed them
> >>
> >> Cylinder 4 plug wire was arcing through the plug boot, down at the
> >> plug. I was able to pull the upper part of the boot back and see the
> >> pretty light show down in the hole. I put a few wraps of Super 33
> >> electrical tape around the boot, put it back in, and the car runs
> >> fine. I�ll be buying a new set of wires tomorrow.
> >>
> >> I really thought the problem had something directly to do with the
> >> radiator swap!
> >>
> >> Sometimes the obvious is just not obvious enough.
> >>
> >
> > Get either Honda OEM plug wires or NGK. I've had good experiences with
> > both on other models. OEM wires are typically good for about 100K
> > miles. The oil in the distributor suggests that the distributor seal is
> > starting to fail. The seal is not available separately but an
> > inexpensive repair might be to find a decent looking used distributor
> > (you'll probably want to swap over your current ignitor and coil). In
> > addition, the oil in the bottom of the spark plug holes could be a
> > problem if there's enough to get on the new plug wires. Fixing this
> > problem requires you to remove the rocker arm assembly
>
> most unlikely it's that seal - change the "b" seals that come with the
> rocker cover first - they are the ones that usually leak.
>
Thanks for catching my oversight. The upper spark plug tube seals should
always be replaced first. Replacing these seals will usually fix the oil
leak and the lower seals should not be touched unless the oil leak continues
even after replacing the upper spark plug tube seals. The upper tube seals
are part #4 in this diagram http://tinyurl.com/y5fz89 and they don't need
any ultra grey silicone to seal, just make sure that they sealing surfaces
are clean.
Eric
12-12-2006 | 06:04 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1990 Accord LX Misfire Problem
jim beam wrote:
>
> Eric wrote:
> > Heathen wrote:
> >> OK, nevermind... I'm a moron.
> >>
> >> After figuring out what was the water temp gauge sensor, the water
> >> temp for the ecm sensor, and thoroughly checking all the wires and
> >> connectors around there, I noticed that with my head close to the
> >> valve cover, I could hear a faint clicking sound when the engine was
> >> stumbling at idle... plug wire!
> >>
> >> I had just replaced the wires about a year ago and probably haven�t
> >> put more than 6k miles on the car since then, so I really thought they
> >> were good... good enough to disregard them as the culprit and good
> >> enough to say I had changed them
> >>
> >> Cylinder 4 plug wire was arcing through the plug boot, down at the
> >> plug. I was able to pull the upper part of the boot back and see the
> >> pretty light show down in the hole. I put a few wraps of Super 33
> >> electrical tape around the boot, put it back in, and the car runs
> >> fine. I�ll be buying a new set of wires tomorrow.
> >>
> >> I really thought the problem had something directly to do with the
> >> radiator swap!
> >>
> >> Sometimes the obvious is just not obvious enough.
> >>
> >
> > Get either Honda OEM plug wires or NGK. I've had good experiences with
> > both on other models. OEM wires are typically good for about 100K
> > miles. The oil in the distributor suggests that the distributor seal is
> > starting to fail. The seal is not available separately but an
> > inexpensive repair might be to find a decent looking used distributor
> > (you'll probably want to swap over your current ignitor and coil). In
> > addition, the oil in the bottom of the spark plug holes could be a
> > problem if there's enough to get on the new plug wires. Fixing this
> > problem requires you to remove the rocker arm assembly
>
> most unlikely it's that seal - change the "b" seals that come with the
> rocker cover first - they are the ones that usually leak.
>
Thanks for catching my oversight. The upper spark plug tube seals should
always be replaced first. Replacing these seals will usually fix the oil
leak and the lower seals should not be touched unless the oil leak continues
even after replacing the upper spark plug tube seals. The upper tube seals
are part #4 in this diagram http://tinyurl.com/y5fz89 and they don't need
any ultra grey silicone to seal, just make sure that they sealing surfaces
are clean.
Eric
>
> Eric wrote:
> > Heathen wrote:
> >> OK, nevermind... I'm a moron.
> >>
> >> After figuring out what was the water temp gauge sensor, the water
> >> temp for the ecm sensor, and thoroughly checking all the wires and
> >> connectors around there, I noticed that with my head close to the
> >> valve cover, I could hear a faint clicking sound when the engine was
> >> stumbling at idle... plug wire!
> >>
> >> I had just replaced the wires about a year ago and probably haven�t
> >> put more than 6k miles on the car since then, so I really thought they
> >> were good... good enough to disregard them as the culprit and good
> >> enough to say I had changed them
> >>
> >> Cylinder 4 plug wire was arcing through the plug boot, down at the
> >> plug. I was able to pull the upper part of the boot back and see the
> >> pretty light show down in the hole. I put a few wraps of Super 33
> >> electrical tape around the boot, put it back in, and the car runs
> >> fine. I�ll be buying a new set of wires tomorrow.
> >>
> >> I really thought the problem had something directly to do with the
> >> radiator swap!
> >>
> >> Sometimes the obvious is just not obvious enough.
> >>
> >
> > Get either Honda OEM plug wires or NGK. I've had good experiences with
> > both on other models. OEM wires are typically good for about 100K
> > miles. The oil in the distributor suggests that the distributor seal is
> > starting to fail. The seal is not available separately but an
> > inexpensive repair might be to find a decent looking used distributor
> > (you'll probably want to swap over your current ignitor and coil). In
> > addition, the oil in the bottom of the spark plug holes could be a
> > problem if there's enough to get on the new plug wires. Fixing this
> > problem requires you to remove the rocker arm assembly
>
> most unlikely it's that seal - change the "b" seals that come with the
> rocker cover first - they are the ones that usually leak.
>
Thanks for catching my oversight. The upper spark plug tube seals should
always be replaced first. Replacing these seals will usually fix the oil
leak and the lower seals should not be touched unless the oil leak continues
even after replacing the upper spark plug tube seals. The upper tube seals
are part #4 in this diagram http://tinyurl.com/y5fz89 and they don't need
any ultra grey silicone to seal, just make sure that they sealing surfaces
are clean.
Eric
12-12-2006 | 06:04 PM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1990 Accord LX Misfire Problem
jim beam wrote:
>
> Eric wrote:
> > Heathen wrote:
> >> OK, nevermind... I'm a moron.
> >>
> >> After figuring out what was the water temp gauge sensor, the water
> >> temp for the ecm sensor, and thoroughly checking all the wires and
> >> connectors around there, I noticed that with my head close to the
> >> valve cover, I could hear a faint clicking sound when the engine was
> >> stumbling at idle... plug wire!
> >>
> >> I had just replaced the wires about a year ago and probably haven�t
> >> put more than 6k miles on the car since then, so I really thought they
> >> were good... good enough to disregard them as the culprit and good
> >> enough to say I had changed them
> >>
> >> Cylinder 4 plug wire was arcing through the plug boot, down at the
> >> plug. I was able to pull the upper part of the boot back and see the
> >> pretty light show down in the hole. I put a few wraps of Super 33
> >> electrical tape around the boot, put it back in, and the car runs
> >> fine. I�ll be buying a new set of wires tomorrow.
> >>
> >> I really thought the problem had something directly to do with the
> >> radiator swap!
> >>
> >> Sometimes the obvious is just not obvious enough.
> >>
> >
> > Get either Honda OEM plug wires or NGK. I've had good experiences with
> > both on other models. OEM wires are typically good for about 100K
> > miles. The oil in the distributor suggests that the distributor seal is
> > starting to fail. The seal is not available separately but an
> > inexpensive repair might be to find a decent looking used distributor
> > (you'll probably want to swap over your current ignitor and coil). In
> > addition, the oil in the bottom of the spark plug holes could be a
> > problem if there's enough to get on the new plug wires. Fixing this
> > problem requires you to remove the rocker arm assembly
>
> most unlikely it's that seal - change the "b" seals that come with the
> rocker cover first - they are the ones that usually leak.
>
Thanks for catching my oversight. The upper spark plug tube seals should
always be replaced first. Replacing these seals will usually fix the oil
leak and the lower seals should not be touched unless the oil leak continues
even after replacing the upper spark plug tube seals. The upper tube seals
are part #4 in this diagram http://tinyurl.com/y5fz89 and they don't need
any ultra grey silicone to seal, just make sure that they sealing surfaces
are clean.
Eric
>
> Eric wrote:
> > Heathen wrote:
> >> OK, nevermind... I'm a moron.
> >>
> >> After figuring out what was the water temp gauge sensor, the water
> >> temp for the ecm sensor, and thoroughly checking all the wires and
> >> connectors around there, I noticed that with my head close to the
> >> valve cover, I could hear a faint clicking sound when the engine was
> >> stumbling at idle... plug wire!
> >>
> >> I had just replaced the wires about a year ago and probably haven�t
> >> put more than 6k miles on the car since then, so I really thought they
> >> were good... good enough to disregard them as the culprit and good
> >> enough to say I had changed them
> >>
> >> Cylinder 4 plug wire was arcing through the plug boot, down at the
> >> plug. I was able to pull the upper part of the boot back and see the
> >> pretty light show down in the hole. I put a few wraps of Super 33
> >> electrical tape around the boot, put it back in, and the car runs
> >> fine. I�ll be buying a new set of wires tomorrow.
> >>
> >> I really thought the problem had something directly to do with the
> >> radiator swap!
> >>
> >> Sometimes the obvious is just not obvious enough.
> >>
> >
> > Get either Honda OEM plug wires or NGK. I've had good experiences with
> > both on other models. OEM wires are typically good for about 100K
> > miles. The oil in the distributor suggests that the distributor seal is
> > starting to fail. The seal is not available separately but an
> > inexpensive repair might be to find a decent looking used distributor
> > (you'll probably want to swap over your current ignitor and coil). In
> > addition, the oil in the bottom of the spark plug holes could be a
> > problem if there's enough to get on the new plug wires. Fixing this
> > problem requires you to remove the rocker arm assembly
>
> most unlikely it's that seal - change the "b" seals that come with the
> rocker cover first - they are the ones that usually leak.
>
Thanks for catching my oversight. The upper spark plug tube seals should
always be replaced first. Replacing these seals will usually fix the oil
leak and the lower seals should not be touched unless the oil leak continues
even after replacing the upper spark plug tube seals. The upper tube seals
are part #4 in this diagram http://tinyurl.com/y5fz89 and they don't need
any ultra grey silicone to seal, just make sure that they sealing surfaces
are clean.
Eric
12-12-2006 | 06:04 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1990 Accord LX Misfire Problem
jim beam wrote:
>
> Eric wrote:
> > Heathen wrote:
> >> OK, nevermind... I'm a moron.
> >>
> >> After figuring out what was the water temp gauge sensor, the water
> >> temp for the ecm sensor, and thoroughly checking all the wires and
> >> connectors around there, I noticed that with my head close to the
> >> valve cover, I could hear a faint clicking sound when the engine was
> >> stumbling at idle... plug wire!
> >>
> >> I had just replaced the wires about a year ago and probably haven�t
> >> put more than 6k miles on the car since then, so I really thought they
> >> were good... good enough to disregard them as the culprit and good
> >> enough to say I had changed them
> >>
> >> Cylinder 4 plug wire was arcing through the plug boot, down at the
> >> plug. I was able to pull the upper part of the boot back and see the
> >> pretty light show down in the hole. I put a few wraps of Super 33
> >> electrical tape around the boot, put it back in, and the car runs
> >> fine. I�ll be buying a new set of wires tomorrow.
> >>
> >> I really thought the problem had something directly to do with the
> >> radiator swap!
> >>
> >> Sometimes the obvious is just not obvious enough.
> >>
> >
> > Get either Honda OEM plug wires or NGK. I've had good experiences with
> > both on other models. OEM wires are typically good for about 100K
> > miles. The oil in the distributor suggests that the distributor seal is
> > starting to fail. The seal is not available separately but an
> > inexpensive repair might be to find a decent looking used distributor
> > (you'll probably want to swap over your current ignitor and coil). In
> > addition, the oil in the bottom of the spark plug holes could be a
> > problem if there's enough to get on the new plug wires. Fixing this
> > problem requires you to remove the rocker arm assembly
>
> most unlikely it's that seal - change the "b" seals that come with the
> rocker cover first - they are the ones that usually leak.
>
Thanks for catching my oversight. The upper spark plug tube seals should
always be replaced first. Replacing these seals will usually fix the oil
leak and the lower seals should not be touched unless the oil leak continues
even after replacing the upper spark plug tube seals. The upper tube seals
are part #4 in this diagram http://tinyurl.com/y5fz89 and they don't need
any ultra grey silicone to seal, just make sure that they sealing surfaces
are clean.
Eric
>
> Eric wrote:
> > Heathen wrote:
> >> OK, nevermind... I'm a moron.
> >>
> >> After figuring out what was the water temp gauge sensor, the water
> >> temp for the ecm sensor, and thoroughly checking all the wires and
> >> connectors around there, I noticed that with my head close to the
> >> valve cover, I could hear a faint clicking sound when the engine was
> >> stumbling at idle... plug wire!
> >>
> >> I had just replaced the wires about a year ago and probably haven�t
> >> put more than 6k miles on the car since then, so I really thought they
> >> were good... good enough to disregard them as the culprit and good
> >> enough to say I had changed them
> >>
> >> Cylinder 4 plug wire was arcing through the plug boot, down at the
> >> plug. I was able to pull the upper part of the boot back and see the
> >> pretty light show down in the hole. I put a few wraps of Super 33
> >> electrical tape around the boot, put it back in, and the car runs
> >> fine. I�ll be buying a new set of wires tomorrow.
> >>
> >> I really thought the problem had something directly to do with the
> >> radiator swap!
> >>
> >> Sometimes the obvious is just not obvious enough.
> >>
> >
> > Get either Honda OEM plug wires or NGK. I've had good experiences with
> > both on other models. OEM wires are typically good for about 100K
> > miles. The oil in the distributor suggests that the distributor seal is
> > starting to fail. The seal is not available separately but an
> > inexpensive repair might be to find a decent looking used distributor
> > (you'll probably want to swap over your current ignitor and coil). In
> > addition, the oil in the bottom of the spark plug holes could be a
> > problem if there's enough to get on the new plug wires. Fixing this
> > problem requires you to remove the rocker arm assembly
>
> most unlikely it's that seal - change the "b" seals that come with the
> rocker cover first - they are the ones that usually leak.
>
Thanks for catching my oversight. The upper spark plug tube seals should
always be replaced first. Replacing these seals will usually fix the oil
leak and the lower seals should not be touched unless the oil leak continues
even after replacing the upper spark plug tube seals. The upper tube seals
are part #4 in this diagram http://tinyurl.com/y5fz89 and they don't need
any ultra grey silicone to seal, just make sure that they sealing surfaces
are clean.
Eric
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