1989 Accord revs and shuts off
10-26-2006 | 09:20 PM
#46
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1989 Accord revs and shuts off **Update**
Eightupman wrote:
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
> news:Xns986854A0CBEEjyanikkuanet@129.250.170.84...
>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in
>> news:VUT%g.12303$2h.8874@tornado.southeast.rr.com:
>>
>>> Ok, went out to toy with it yesterday. The sumbich started up and ran
>>> FINE.....until I took it around the block.
>>>
>>> I got some history on the car from previous owner. Lets see if some
>>> of this all makes sense. The car did the same thing BEFORE the timing
>>> belt change...long before I even got under the hood. He said it (the
>>> stalling problem) would last a couple days and then quit for a while.
>>> While talking to him, (and after reading some suggestions) I asked if
>>> he noticed if the car would do it at a certain fuel level (ie when the
>>> tank is close to empty) He said that he did not pay attention to that.
>>>
>>> Some additional info....I can DRIVE the car all day long...up and down
>>> the gears as long as I do not have to stop or let off the pedal.
>>>
>>> So that sort of eliminates some things logically I would think. If it
>>> was a fuel pressure issue, I would think it would cut off any time it
>>> liked. If it was a H_U_G_E vacuum issue it would not have run
>>> mysteriously for several days at a time.
>>>
>>> So my thought is now...EGR valve...if it is allowing exhaust in at
>>> idle, that would surely shut it down. The plunger is working properly
>>> ON the car, but that does not mean that it is seated properly....will
>>> check that tomorrow.
>>>
>>> Thanks to all and keep the ideas coming....I AM going to figure this
>>> one out....sumbich.....LOL
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:Tp8%g.4704$_u4.2870@tornado.southeast.rr.com. ..
>>>> 1989 Honda Accord 5 speed, 2.0
>>>>
>>>> Car will start and run for about 5 seconds at 3000 RPM and then shut
>>>> down. It will do this EVERY time I fire up the car. The engine seems
>>>> to sound fine.
>>>>
>>>> Checked for vacuum leaks and the like, but can't figure this one
>>>> out....
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Any thoughts?
>>>>
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>> you could eliminate the main relay as a problem by taking it out and
>> resoldering it,www.tegger.com has the instructions. It doesn't take very
>> long to do.
>>
>> check the grounds in the engine compartment.Maybe they are corroded and
>> not
>> making good contact.
>>
>> Do you think this might have been a "flood car",one that's been under
>> water
>> at one time?
>>
>> Bad throttle position sensor? Maybe a bad segment(wornout) on the
>> sensor,at
>> the end near idle,so if you keep the throttle above that point,the motor
>> runs,but when the throttle moves below the bad segment,it has no signal(or
>> wrong signal) to the ECU;thus the motor dies. Info in my Haynes manual for
>> my 94 Integra says you can use a voltmeter to check the TPS,output V runs
>> from 0.5V to 4.5V,with an input supply(reference) of 5V. It seems to be a
>> potentiometer(variable resistor),that's why it sounds like a bad segment
>> at
>> the idle end of the pot. The output voltage should be a smooth increase
>> from low to high,no jumping.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jim Yanik
>> jyanik
>> at
>> kua.net
>
> Sounds like a sound theory. except the fact that I am in the electronics
> profession, and if the pot were bad...it would be bad all the time, and not
> mysteriously run/idle fine when it wants too. Will check it anyway.
>
> John
>
>
Sounds like a bad fuel pump to me. I had one on a 1984 Accord that
worked fine most of the time, but would just stop pumping every now and
then.
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
> news:Xns986854A0CBEEjyanikkuanet@129.250.170.84...
>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in
>> news:VUT%g.12303$2h.8874@tornado.southeast.rr.com:
>>
>>> Ok, went out to toy with it yesterday. The sumbich started up and ran
>>> FINE.....until I took it around the block.
>>>
>>> I got some history on the car from previous owner. Lets see if some
>>> of this all makes sense. The car did the same thing BEFORE the timing
>>> belt change...long before I even got under the hood. He said it (the
>>> stalling problem) would last a couple days and then quit for a while.
>>> While talking to him, (and after reading some suggestions) I asked if
>>> he noticed if the car would do it at a certain fuel level (ie when the
>>> tank is close to empty) He said that he did not pay attention to that.
>>>
>>> Some additional info....I can DRIVE the car all day long...up and down
>>> the gears as long as I do not have to stop or let off the pedal.
>>>
>>> So that sort of eliminates some things logically I would think. If it
>>> was a fuel pressure issue, I would think it would cut off any time it
>>> liked. If it was a H_U_G_E vacuum issue it would not have run
>>> mysteriously for several days at a time.
>>>
>>> So my thought is now...EGR valve...if it is allowing exhaust in at
>>> idle, that would surely shut it down. The plunger is working properly
>>> ON the car, but that does not mean that it is seated properly....will
>>> check that tomorrow.
>>>
>>> Thanks to all and keep the ideas coming....I AM going to figure this
>>> one out....sumbich.....LOL
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:Tp8%g.4704$_u4.2870@tornado.southeast.rr.com. ..
>>>> 1989 Honda Accord 5 speed, 2.0
>>>>
>>>> Car will start and run for about 5 seconds at 3000 RPM and then shut
>>>> down. It will do this EVERY time I fire up the car. The engine seems
>>>> to sound fine.
>>>>
>>>> Checked for vacuum leaks and the like, but can't figure this one
>>>> out....
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Any thoughts?
>>>>
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>> you could eliminate the main relay as a problem by taking it out and
>> resoldering it,www.tegger.com has the instructions. It doesn't take very
>> long to do.
>>
>> check the grounds in the engine compartment.Maybe they are corroded and
>> not
>> making good contact.
>>
>> Do you think this might have been a "flood car",one that's been under
>> water
>> at one time?
>>
>> Bad throttle position sensor? Maybe a bad segment(wornout) on the
>> sensor,at
>> the end near idle,so if you keep the throttle above that point,the motor
>> runs,but when the throttle moves below the bad segment,it has no signal(or
>> wrong signal) to the ECU;thus the motor dies. Info in my Haynes manual for
>> my 94 Integra says you can use a voltmeter to check the TPS,output V runs
>> from 0.5V to 4.5V,with an input supply(reference) of 5V. It seems to be a
>> potentiometer(variable resistor),that's why it sounds like a bad segment
>> at
>> the idle end of the pot. The output voltage should be a smooth increase
>> from low to high,no jumping.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jim Yanik
>> jyanik
>> at
>> kua.net
>
> Sounds like a sound theory. except the fact that I am in the electronics
> profession, and if the pot were bad...it would be bad all the time, and not
> mysteriously run/idle fine when it wants too. Will check it anyway.
>
> John
>
>
Sounds like a bad fuel pump to me. I had one on a 1984 Accord that
worked fine most of the time, but would just stop pumping every now and
then.
10-26-2006 | 09:20 PM
#47
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1989 Accord revs and shuts off **Update**
Eightupman wrote:
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
> news:Xns986854A0CBEEjyanikkuanet@129.250.170.84...
>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in
>> news:VUT%g.12303$2h.8874@tornado.southeast.rr.com:
>>
>>> Ok, went out to toy with it yesterday. The sumbich started up and ran
>>> FINE.....until I took it around the block.
>>>
>>> I got some history on the car from previous owner. Lets see if some
>>> of this all makes sense. The car did the same thing BEFORE the timing
>>> belt change...long before I even got under the hood. He said it (the
>>> stalling problem) would last a couple days and then quit for a while.
>>> While talking to him, (and after reading some suggestions) I asked if
>>> he noticed if the car would do it at a certain fuel level (ie when the
>>> tank is close to empty) He said that he did not pay attention to that.
>>>
>>> Some additional info....I can DRIVE the car all day long...up and down
>>> the gears as long as I do not have to stop or let off the pedal.
>>>
>>> So that sort of eliminates some things logically I would think. If it
>>> was a fuel pressure issue, I would think it would cut off any time it
>>> liked. If it was a H_U_G_E vacuum issue it would not have run
>>> mysteriously for several days at a time.
>>>
>>> So my thought is now...EGR valve...if it is allowing exhaust in at
>>> idle, that would surely shut it down. The plunger is working properly
>>> ON the car, but that does not mean that it is seated properly....will
>>> check that tomorrow.
>>>
>>> Thanks to all and keep the ideas coming....I AM going to figure this
>>> one out....sumbich.....LOL
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:Tp8%g.4704$_u4.2870@tornado.southeast.rr.com. ..
>>>> 1989 Honda Accord 5 speed, 2.0
>>>>
>>>> Car will start and run for about 5 seconds at 3000 RPM and then shut
>>>> down. It will do this EVERY time I fire up the car. The engine seems
>>>> to sound fine.
>>>>
>>>> Checked for vacuum leaks and the like, but can't figure this one
>>>> out....
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Any thoughts?
>>>>
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>> you could eliminate the main relay as a problem by taking it out and
>> resoldering it,www.tegger.com has the instructions. It doesn't take very
>> long to do.
>>
>> check the grounds in the engine compartment.Maybe they are corroded and
>> not
>> making good contact.
>>
>> Do you think this might have been a "flood car",one that's been under
>> water
>> at one time?
>>
>> Bad throttle position sensor? Maybe a bad segment(wornout) on the
>> sensor,at
>> the end near idle,so if you keep the throttle above that point,the motor
>> runs,but when the throttle moves below the bad segment,it has no signal(or
>> wrong signal) to the ECU;thus the motor dies. Info in my Haynes manual for
>> my 94 Integra says you can use a voltmeter to check the TPS,output V runs
>> from 0.5V to 4.5V,with an input supply(reference) of 5V. It seems to be a
>> potentiometer(variable resistor),that's why it sounds like a bad segment
>> at
>> the idle end of the pot. The output voltage should be a smooth increase
>> from low to high,no jumping.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jim Yanik
>> jyanik
>> at
>> kua.net
>
> Sounds like a sound theory. except the fact that I am in the electronics
> profession, and if the pot were bad...it would be bad all the time, and not
> mysteriously run/idle fine when it wants too. Will check it anyway.
>
> John
>
>
Sounds like a bad fuel pump to me. I had one on a 1984 Accord that
worked fine most of the time, but would just stop pumping every now and
then.
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
> news:Xns986854A0CBEEjyanikkuanet@129.250.170.84...
>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in
>> news:VUT%g.12303$2h.8874@tornado.southeast.rr.com:
>>
>>> Ok, went out to toy with it yesterday. The sumbich started up and ran
>>> FINE.....until I took it around the block.
>>>
>>> I got some history on the car from previous owner. Lets see if some
>>> of this all makes sense. The car did the same thing BEFORE the timing
>>> belt change...long before I even got under the hood. He said it (the
>>> stalling problem) would last a couple days and then quit for a while.
>>> While talking to him, (and after reading some suggestions) I asked if
>>> he noticed if the car would do it at a certain fuel level (ie when the
>>> tank is close to empty) He said that he did not pay attention to that.
>>>
>>> Some additional info....I can DRIVE the car all day long...up and down
>>> the gears as long as I do not have to stop or let off the pedal.
>>>
>>> So that sort of eliminates some things logically I would think. If it
>>> was a fuel pressure issue, I would think it would cut off any time it
>>> liked. If it was a H_U_G_E vacuum issue it would not have run
>>> mysteriously for several days at a time.
>>>
>>> So my thought is now...EGR valve...if it is allowing exhaust in at
>>> idle, that would surely shut it down. The plunger is working properly
>>> ON the car, but that does not mean that it is seated properly....will
>>> check that tomorrow.
>>>
>>> Thanks to all and keep the ideas coming....I AM going to figure this
>>> one out....sumbich.....LOL
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:Tp8%g.4704$_u4.2870@tornado.southeast.rr.com. ..
>>>> 1989 Honda Accord 5 speed, 2.0
>>>>
>>>> Car will start and run for about 5 seconds at 3000 RPM and then shut
>>>> down. It will do this EVERY time I fire up the car. The engine seems
>>>> to sound fine.
>>>>
>>>> Checked for vacuum leaks and the like, but can't figure this one
>>>> out....
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Any thoughts?
>>>>
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>> you could eliminate the main relay as a problem by taking it out and
>> resoldering it,www.tegger.com has the instructions. It doesn't take very
>> long to do.
>>
>> check the grounds in the engine compartment.Maybe they are corroded and
>> not
>> making good contact.
>>
>> Do you think this might have been a "flood car",one that's been under
>> water
>> at one time?
>>
>> Bad throttle position sensor? Maybe a bad segment(wornout) on the
>> sensor,at
>> the end near idle,so if you keep the throttle above that point,the motor
>> runs,but when the throttle moves below the bad segment,it has no signal(or
>> wrong signal) to the ECU;thus the motor dies. Info in my Haynes manual for
>> my 94 Integra says you can use a voltmeter to check the TPS,output V runs
>> from 0.5V to 4.5V,with an input supply(reference) of 5V. It seems to be a
>> potentiometer(variable resistor),that's why it sounds like a bad segment
>> at
>> the idle end of the pot. The output voltage should be a smooth increase
>> from low to high,no jumping.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jim Yanik
>> jyanik
>> at
>> kua.net
>
> Sounds like a sound theory. except the fact that I am in the electronics
> profession, and if the pot were bad...it would be bad all the time, and not
> mysteriously run/idle fine when it wants too. Will check it anyway.
>
> John
>
>
Sounds like a bad fuel pump to me. I had one on a 1984 Accord that
worked fine most of the time, but would just stop pumping every now and
then.
10-26-2006 | 09:20 PM
#48
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1989 Accord revs and shuts off **Update**
Eightupman wrote:
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
> news:Xns986854A0CBEEjyanikkuanet@129.250.170.84...
>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in
>> news:VUT%g.12303$2h.8874@tornado.southeast.rr.com:
>>
>>> Ok, went out to toy with it yesterday. The sumbich started up and ran
>>> FINE.....until I took it around the block.
>>>
>>> I got some history on the car from previous owner. Lets see if some
>>> of this all makes sense. The car did the same thing BEFORE the timing
>>> belt change...long before I even got under the hood. He said it (the
>>> stalling problem) would last a couple days and then quit for a while.
>>> While talking to him, (and after reading some suggestions) I asked if
>>> he noticed if the car would do it at a certain fuel level (ie when the
>>> tank is close to empty) He said that he did not pay attention to that.
>>>
>>> Some additional info....I can DRIVE the car all day long...up and down
>>> the gears as long as I do not have to stop or let off the pedal.
>>>
>>> So that sort of eliminates some things logically I would think. If it
>>> was a fuel pressure issue, I would think it would cut off any time it
>>> liked. If it was a H_U_G_E vacuum issue it would not have run
>>> mysteriously for several days at a time.
>>>
>>> So my thought is now...EGR valve...if it is allowing exhaust in at
>>> idle, that would surely shut it down. The plunger is working properly
>>> ON the car, but that does not mean that it is seated properly....will
>>> check that tomorrow.
>>>
>>> Thanks to all and keep the ideas coming....I AM going to figure this
>>> one out....sumbich.....LOL
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:Tp8%g.4704$_u4.2870@tornado.southeast.rr.com. ..
>>>> 1989 Honda Accord 5 speed, 2.0
>>>>
>>>> Car will start and run for about 5 seconds at 3000 RPM and then shut
>>>> down. It will do this EVERY time I fire up the car. The engine seems
>>>> to sound fine.
>>>>
>>>> Checked for vacuum leaks and the like, but can't figure this one
>>>> out....
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Any thoughts?
>>>>
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>> you could eliminate the main relay as a problem by taking it out and
>> resoldering it,www.tegger.com has the instructions. It doesn't take very
>> long to do.
>>
>> check the grounds in the engine compartment.Maybe they are corroded and
>> not
>> making good contact.
>>
>> Do you think this might have been a "flood car",one that's been under
>> water
>> at one time?
>>
>> Bad throttle position sensor? Maybe a bad segment(wornout) on the
>> sensor,at
>> the end near idle,so if you keep the throttle above that point,the motor
>> runs,but when the throttle moves below the bad segment,it has no signal(or
>> wrong signal) to the ECU;thus the motor dies. Info in my Haynes manual for
>> my 94 Integra says you can use a voltmeter to check the TPS,output V runs
>> from 0.5V to 4.5V,with an input supply(reference) of 5V. It seems to be a
>> potentiometer(variable resistor),that's why it sounds like a bad segment
>> at
>> the idle end of the pot. The output voltage should be a smooth increase
>> from low to high,no jumping.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jim Yanik
>> jyanik
>> at
>> kua.net
>
> Sounds like a sound theory. except the fact that I am in the electronics
> profession, and if the pot were bad...it would be bad all the time, and not
> mysteriously run/idle fine when it wants too. Will check it anyway.
>
> John
>
>
Sounds like a bad fuel pump to me. I had one on a 1984 Accord that
worked fine most of the time, but would just stop pumping every now and
then.
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
> news:Xns986854A0CBEEjyanikkuanet@129.250.170.84...
>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in
>> news:VUT%g.12303$2h.8874@tornado.southeast.rr.com:
>>
>>> Ok, went out to toy with it yesterday. The sumbich started up and ran
>>> FINE.....until I took it around the block.
>>>
>>> I got some history on the car from previous owner. Lets see if some
>>> of this all makes sense. The car did the same thing BEFORE the timing
>>> belt change...long before I even got under the hood. He said it (the
>>> stalling problem) would last a couple days and then quit for a while.
>>> While talking to him, (and after reading some suggestions) I asked if
>>> he noticed if the car would do it at a certain fuel level (ie when the
>>> tank is close to empty) He said that he did not pay attention to that.
>>>
>>> Some additional info....I can DRIVE the car all day long...up and down
>>> the gears as long as I do not have to stop or let off the pedal.
>>>
>>> So that sort of eliminates some things logically I would think. If it
>>> was a fuel pressure issue, I would think it would cut off any time it
>>> liked. If it was a H_U_G_E vacuum issue it would not have run
>>> mysteriously for several days at a time.
>>>
>>> So my thought is now...EGR valve...if it is allowing exhaust in at
>>> idle, that would surely shut it down. The plunger is working properly
>>> ON the car, but that does not mean that it is seated properly....will
>>> check that tomorrow.
>>>
>>> Thanks to all and keep the ideas coming....I AM going to figure this
>>> one out....sumbich.....LOL
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:Tp8%g.4704$_u4.2870@tornado.southeast.rr.com. ..
>>>> 1989 Honda Accord 5 speed, 2.0
>>>>
>>>> Car will start and run for about 5 seconds at 3000 RPM and then shut
>>>> down. It will do this EVERY time I fire up the car. The engine seems
>>>> to sound fine.
>>>>
>>>> Checked for vacuum leaks and the like, but can't figure this one
>>>> out....
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Any thoughts?
>>>>
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>> you could eliminate the main relay as a problem by taking it out and
>> resoldering it,www.tegger.com has the instructions. It doesn't take very
>> long to do.
>>
>> check the grounds in the engine compartment.Maybe they are corroded and
>> not
>> making good contact.
>>
>> Do you think this might have been a "flood car",one that's been under
>> water
>> at one time?
>>
>> Bad throttle position sensor? Maybe a bad segment(wornout) on the
>> sensor,at
>> the end near idle,so if you keep the throttle above that point,the motor
>> runs,but when the throttle moves below the bad segment,it has no signal(or
>> wrong signal) to the ECU;thus the motor dies. Info in my Haynes manual for
>> my 94 Integra says you can use a voltmeter to check the TPS,output V runs
>> from 0.5V to 4.5V,with an input supply(reference) of 5V. It seems to be a
>> potentiometer(variable resistor),that's why it sounds like a bad segment
>> at
>> the idle end of the pot. The output voltage should be a smooth increase
>> from low to high,no jumping.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jim Yanik
>> jyanik
>> at
>> kua.net
>
> Sounds like a sound theory. except the fact that I am in the electronics
> profession, and if the pot were bad...it would be bad all the time, and not
> mysteriously run/idle fine when it wants too. Will check it anyway.
>
> John
>
>
Sounds like a bad fuel pump to me. I had one on a 1984 Accord that
worked fine most of the time, but would just stop pumping every now and
then.
10-26-2006 | 09:20 PM
#49
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1989 Accord revs and shuts off **Update**
Eightupman wrote:
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
> news:Xns986854A0CBEEjyanikkuanet@129.250.170.84...
>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in
>> news:VUT%g.12303$2h.8874@tornado.southeast.rr.com:
>>
>>> Ok, went out to toy with it yesterday. The sumbich started up and ran
>>> FINE.....until I took it around the block.
>>>
>>> I got some history on the car from previous owner. Lets see if some
>>> of this all makes sense. The car did the same thing BEFORE the timing
>>> belt change...long before I even got under the hood. He said it (the
>>> stalling problem) would last a couple days and then quit for a while.
>>> While talking to him, (and after reading some suggestions) I asked if
>>> he noticed if the car would do it at a certain fuel level (ie when the
>>> tank is close to empty) He said that he did not pay attention to that.
>>>
>>> Some additional info....I can DRIVE the car all day long...up and down
>>> the gears as long as I do not have to stop or let off the pedal.
>>>
>>> So that sort of eliminates some things logically I would think. If it
>>> was a fuel pressure issue, I would think it would cut off any time it
>>> liked. If it was a H_U_G_E vacuum issue it would not have run
>>> mysteriously for several days at a time.
>>>
>>> So my thought is now...EGR valve...if it is allowing exhaust in at
>>> idle, that would surely shut it down. The plunger is working properly
>>> ON the car, but that does not mean that it is seated properly....will
>>> check that tomorrow.
>>>
>>> Thanks to all and keep the ideas coming....I AM going to figure this
>>> one out....sumbich.....LOL
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:Tp8%g.4704$_u4.2870@tornado.southeast.rr.com. ..
>>>> 1989 Honda Accord 5 speed, 2.0
>>>>
>>>> Car will start and run for about 5 seconds at 3000 RPM and then shut
>>>> down. It will do this EVERY time I fire up the car. The engine seems
>>>> to sound fine.
>>>>
>>>> Checked for vacuum leaks and the like, but can't figure this one
>>>> out....
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Any thoughts?
>>>>
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>> you could eliminate the main relay as a problem by taking it out and
>> resoldering it,www.tegger.com has the instructions. It doesn't take very
>> long to do.
>>
>> check the grounds in the engine compartment.Maybe they are corroded and
>> not
>> making good contact.
>>
>> Do you think this might have been a "flood car",one that's been under
>> water
>> at one time?
>>
>> Bad throttle position sensor? Maybe a bad segment(wornout) on the
>> sensor,at
>> the end near idle,so if you keep the throttle above that point,the motor
>> runs,but when the throttle moves below the bad segment,it has no signal(or
>> wrong signal) to the ECU;thus the motor dies. Info in my Haynes manual for
>> my 94 Integra says you can use a voltmeter to check the TPS,output V runs
>> from 0.5V to 4.5V,with an input supply(reference) of 5V. It seems to be a
>> potentiometer(variable resistor),that's why it sounds like a bad segment
>> at
>> the idle end of the pot. The output voltage should be a smooth increase
>> from low to high,no jumping.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jim Yanik
>> jyanik
>> at
>> kua.net
>
> Sounds like a sound theory. except the fact that I am in the electronics
> profession, and if the pot were bad...it would be bad all the time, and not
> mysteriously run/idle fine when it wants too. Will check it anyway.
>
> John
>
>
Sounds like a bad fuel pump to me. I had one on a 1984 Accord that
worked fine most of the time, but would just stop pumping every now and
then.
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
> news:Xns986854A0CBEEjyanikkuanet@129.250.170.84...
>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in
>> news:VUT%g.12303$2h.8874@tornado.southeast.rr.com:
>>
>>> Ok, went out to toy with it yesterday. The sumbich started up and ran
>>> FINE.....until I took it around the block.
>>>
>>> I got some history on the car from previous owner. Lets see if some
>>> of this all makes sense. The car did the same thing BEFORE the timing
>>> belt change...long before I even got under the hood. He said it (the
>>> stalling problem) would last a couple days and then quit for a while.
>>> While talking to him, (and after reading some suggestions) I asked if
>>> he noticed if the car would do it at a certain fuel level (ie when the
>>> tank is close to empty) He said that he did not pay attention to that.
>>>
>>> Some additional info....I can DRIVE the car all day long...up and down
>>> the gears as long as I do not have to stop or let off the pedal.
>>>
>>> So that sort of eliminates some things logically I would think. If it
>>> was a fuel pressure issue, I would think it would cut off any time it
>>> liked. If it was a H_U_G_E vacuum issue it would not have run
>>> mysteriously for several days at a time.
>>>
>>> So my thought is now...EGR valve...if it is allowing exhaust in at
>>> idle, that would surely shut it down. The plunger is working properly
>>> ON the car, but that does not mean that it is seated properly....will
>>> check that tomorrow.
>>>
>>> Thanks to all and keep the ideas coming....I AM going to figure this
>>> one out....sumbich.....LOL
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> "Eightupman" <eightupman@newemail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:Tp8%g.4704$_u4.2870@tornado.southeast.rr.com. ..
>>>> 1989 Honda Accord 5 speed, 2.0
>>>>
>>>> Car will start and run for about 5 seconds at 3000 RPM and then shut
>>>> down. It will do this EVERY time I fire up the car. The engine seems
>>>> to sound fine.
>>>>
>>>> Checked for vacuum leaks and the like, but can't figure this one
>>>> out....
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Any thoughts?
>>>>
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>> you could eliminate the main relay as a problem by taking it out and
>> resoldering it,www.tegger.com has the instructions. It doesn't take very
>> long to do.
>>
>> check the grounds in the engine compartment.Maybe they are corroded and
>> not
>> making good contact.
>>
>> Do you think this might have been a "flood car",one that's been under
>> water
>> at one time?
>>
>> Bad throttle position sensor? Maybe a bad segment(wornout) on the
>> sensor,at
>> the end near idle,so if you keep the throttle above that point,the motor
>> runs,but when the throttle moves below the bad segment,it has no signal(or
>> wrong signal) to the ECU;thus the motor dies. Info in my Haynes manual for
>> my 94 Integra says you can use a voltmeter to check the TPS,output V runs
>> from 0.5V to 4.5V,with an input supply(reference) of 5V. It seems to be a
>> potentiometer(variable resistor),that's why it sounds like a bad segment
>> at
>> the idle end of the pot. The output voltage should be a smooth increase
>> from low to high,no jumping.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jim Yanik
>> jyanik
>> at
>> kua.net
>
> Sounds like a sound theory. except the fact that I am in the electronics
> profession, and if the pot were bad...it would be bad all the time, and not
> mysteriously run/idle fine when it wants too. Will check it anyway.
>
> John
>
>
Sounds like a bad fuel pump to me. I had one on a 1984 Accord that
worked fine most of the time, but would just stop pumping every now and
then.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)