Buying a used Honda, what to look for mechanically?
#1
Buying a used Honda, what to look for mechanically?
I'm looking into buying a 95 Honda Civic very soon, but I'm having trouble finding a mechanic to look at it for me before I buy. My fiance and I are somewhat mechanically inclined, we're not automotive idiots or anything, but we need to know some specific things to look for, i.e. potential future mechanical issues. The car has 155k miles and has had some work done recently (new hoses, new water pump, new tires, new battery, and such); the only issue that the current owner has mentioned to us is that the catalytic converter is going bad and will need to be replaced soon. Basically, I cannot afford to buy the car and then have a dozen problems pop up, I just need a reliable car. So what are some common things to look at when buying a used car? For example, I know to check the tires for uneven wear that could indicate mis-alignment...things like that. Thanks!
#2
check to see if:
doors close and open as usual. open and close a few times
look for oil drips when you first go look at the car, meaning car hasnt been raned yet, and then take it for a test drive, make sure you park it some where else where the car was, but also make sure the new parking area is free of oil spots on the cement. they in a few minutes or so, move the car to another location to see if there are any fresh oil drips.
open truck and close acouple of times, if it drags or pops open normal, and then look to see if any of the inside capet of the trunk like on the sides, if any of the pins or screws are missing, could ressemble body damage, and they having to move the carpet to get to the body from the inside..
while some one is starting the car after a night or so with the engine at full cooled, have some one look at the tail pipe of the vehicle to see the color of smoke. white is normal, blue is running rich and black is buring oil.
open and close the hood as well. with the key on the on position when you first turn the ignition, look to see that the check engine light turns on, along with the srs light, and when at start, everything should go off.. check all window roll ups and down and seal correctly,
check door jams, and for over spray of paint.
look at coolant by removing radiator cap when car is cold to see if its a normal coolant color which can be green, blue, or redish orange... look for mudd like mixture. that is bad... pull the oil dip stick out after the car has been test drived, and look to see if you see mudd like on the dip stick.. or bubbles... alittle is normal, but alot means oil and water is mixing which is bad, check all electrical, meaning signals radio antanna, lights, head lights. dome light, check the cruise if car is equipped with a/c run that as well.. turn the steering wheel all the way meaning go and make a "u" turn, both sides, listen for ticking or knocking sounds... test braking system, not at fast speeds but alittle more accessive pressure to make sure no brakes will be needed,
no shaking in steering wheel, that is what to look for.. and make sure seller has pink slip, hahah i've ran into cars where i cant process the paper work, and have to contact the seller because they gave me a bill of sale, and now im stuck with a car that cant be registered because he sold it to this guy and that guy never completed this and he took the car back, and lalalala....
listen for exhaust leaks... cracked windsheilds... working rear defroster. take the car over speed bumps to test shocks... oh if not original color, it had to be painted because of something, thats all i can think of, besides get on your back and crawl under the car from any possible angle and look to see if theres any oil drips, and ripped cv axle boots.. check the color of the transmission if it is an auto. red red is new fluids, dark red is old... with some one turning the steering wheel left and right all the way with the car on, have some one look in the engine bay to see if theres any leaks... they dont leak until pressure is added... and if you already heard of the 30/60/90k tune ups... at 30 they are suppose to get it serviced and so on...90 is the big one, cause they are suppose to get the water pump and timing belt changed.. which you already mentioned... and thats good... but anything over 140 they should of at least gotton the valves adjusted. if they were up to date with maintence... and just so you know, " wink wink"
honda civics from years 96-00 has a warranty service free of charge to civic owners who need it replaced, the whole intake and exhaust system of the car, meaning new cat, new intake manifold, new o2 sensor. pretty much an almost complete head over haul. at dealers expensense, that is... key words... if the car needs it, a clean title, and is under 150k... i you not! oh they also have life time warranty on seat belts, so if for some reason they dont retrack anymore after you unbuckle yourself, and slamm the door on them a couple of times, they replace that too.. sooo long as the car is a clean title..... that pretty much sums it up... or at least off the top of my head... oh if its a manaul, step on the clutch and listen for worn out throw out bearings or weak clutch... hope that helps.. gosh its 2:35 am... im bored and need to go to sleep now... ahhahah good nite
doors close and open as usual. open and close a few times
look for oil drips when you first go look at the car, meaning car hasnt been raned yet, and then take it for a test drive, make sure you park it some where else where the car was, but also make sure the new parking area is free of oil spots on the cement. they in a few minutes or so, move the car to another location to see if there are any fresh oil drips.
open truck and close acouple of times, if it drags or pops open normal, and then look to see if any of the inside capet of the trunk like on the sides, if any of the pins or screws are missing, could ressemble body damage, and they having to move the carpet to get to the body from the inside..
while some one is starting the car after a night or so with the engine at full cooled, have some one look at the tail pipe of the vehicle to see the color of smoke. white is normal, blue is running rich and black is buring oil.
open and close the hood as well. with the key on the on position when you first turn the ignition, look to see that the check engine light turns on, along with the srs light, and when at start, everything should go off.. check all window roll ups and down and seal correctly,
check door jams, and for over spray of paint.
look at coolant by removing radiator cap when car is cold to see if its a normal coolant color which can be green, blue, or redish orange... look for mudd like mixture. that is bad... pull the oil dip stick out after the car has been test drived, and look to see if you see mudd like on the dip stick.. or bubbles... alittle is normal, but alot means oil and water is mixing which is bad, check all electrical, meaning signals radio antanna, lights, head lights. dome light, check the cruise if car is equipped with a/c run that as well.. turn the steering wheel all the way meaning go and make a "u" turn, both sides, listen for ticking or knocking sounds... test braking system, not at fast speeds but alittle more accessive pressure to make sure no brakes will be needed,
no shaking in steering wheel, that is what to look for.. and make sure seller has pink slip, hahah i've ran into cars where i cant process the paper work, and have to contact the seller because they gave me a bill of sale, and now im stuck with a car that cant be registered because he sold it to this guy and that guy never completed this and he took the car back, and lalalala....
listen for exhaust leaks... cracked windsheilds... working rear defroster. take the car over speed bumps to test shocks... oh if not original color, it had to be painted because of something, thats all i can think of, besides get on your back and crawl under the car from any possible angle and look to see if theres any oil drips, and ripped cv axle boots.. check the color of the transmission if it is an auto. red red is new fluids, dark red is old... with some one turning the steering wheel left and right all the way with the car on, have some one look in the engine bay to see if theres any leaks... they dont leak until pressure is added... and if you already heard of the 30/60/90k tune ups... at 30 they are suppose to get it serviced and so on...90 is the big one, cause they are suppose to get the water pump and timing belt changed.. which you already mentioned... and thats good... but anything over 140 they should of at least gotton the valves adjusted. if they were up to date with maintence... and just so you know, " wink wink"
honda civics from years 96-00 has a warranty service free of charge to civic owners who need it replaced, the whole intake and exhaust system of the car, meaning new cat, new intake manifold, new o2 sensor. pretty much an almost complete head over haul. at dealers expensense, that is... key words... if the car needs it, a clean title, and is under 150k... i you not! oh they also have life time warranty on seat belts, so if for some reason they dont retrack anymore after you unbuckle yourself, and slamm the door on them a couple of times, they replace that too.. sooo long as the car is a clean title..... that pretty much sums it up... or at least off the top of my head... oh if its a manaul, step on the clutch and listen for worn out throw out bearings or weak clutch... hope that helps.. gosh its 2:35 am... im bored and need to go to sleep now... ahhahah good nite
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BlueHorseshoe
honda / acura
0
05-30-2008 03:46 AM
Cutevotes2008
Other Honda Models
2
04-03-2008 06:03 PM
thrift meister
Hyundai Mailing List
0
12-21-2003 06:01 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)