b20 with b16 head neeed help
#1
b20 with b16 head neeed help
hey guys my buddy wants to do a b20 with a b16 head he has a b16 in it right now i know on the site theres the info but my buddy wants to build the head too hes looking for about 240 hp if not a lil more it will be going into a 91 civic just looking about how much hes gonnna be loooking at to spend with it runing nice and it wont brake down thanks guys i reallly need the help get back to me asap with a list of parts and cost of build once again thanks
#4
welll he gots the head and i think he is gettting someone to do it i seee u got the same set up do u mind giving me some info if u feel like u dont wannna share it on the most just pm me it would help bc i dont want him to get riped off and when i go talk to the guy that will be doing it i wannna make it sound like i know what im doing lol u know what i mean like i have a idea but not 100% sure
#5
if you want a reliable 240hp i would re-sleeve it, the b20 blocks have thin walls..not really sure how much hp ther rated for safe use...prob like 215...but it also depends on how u drive...if you wanna bring it up to 9k than re-sleeve it and get a good tune..get some b20z pistons or some after market ones..i think JE makes 84mm pistons...get the golden eagle kit...use the b16 head get some R cams I/M port n polish if you want...than oviosly i/h/e and 240 should be easy...
#6
240whp n/a isn't that easy nor cheap
R cams and b20z pistons won't even get you to 200 let alone 240. you're looking at high compression pistons like 11:1 or 12:1 and set of stage 3 cams. among many other things such has 2.5" exhaust, rage header, intake manifold
if you wanna rev to 9k, that bottom end better have some ARP hardware, brand new OEM R bearings or ACL Race bearings and the rotating assembly should be balanced. crank girdle can't hurt either.
R cams and b20z pistons won't even get you to 200 let alone 240. you're looking at high compression pistons like 11:1 or 12:1 and set of stage 3 cams. among many other things such has 2.5" exhaust, rage header, intake manifold
if you wanna rev to 9k, that bottom end better have some ARP hardware, brand new OEM R bearings or ACL Race bearings and the rotating assembly should be balanced. crank girdle can't hurt either.
#7
in looking through my resouces that i'm using for my ls/vtec build i cam across this:
that's alot of coin
Head:
Portflow GSR head with Portflow valvetrain and 3 angle valve job
Portflow Titanium retainers
Stock ITR valves
Blox B cams
BDL Cam gears
B&M Fuel pressure regulator
RC 370cc OBD1 injectors
JG Victor X manifold
BDL 70mm throttle body
Jerry Built Header
Block:
Cast RS ITR Pistons notched for ARP rod bolts (11.1:1 compression)
Stock B20 crank and B20 rods
ITR oil pump
ITR water pump
Stock B20 crank pulley
Stock ITR bearings
ARP head studs
Walbro 190 lph fuel pump
Hondata S300
Portflow GSR head with Portflow valvetrain and 3 angle valve job
Portflow Titanium retainers
Stock ITR valves
Blox B cams
BDL Cam gears
B&M Fuel pressure regulator
RC 370cc OBD1 injectors
JG Victor X manifold
BDL 70mm throttle body
Jerry Built Header
Block:
Cast RS ITR Pistons notched for ARP rod bolts (11.1:1 compression)
Stock B20 crank and B20 rods
ITR oil pump
ITR water pump
Stock B20 crank pulley
Stock ITR bearings
ARP head studs
Walbro 190 lph fuel pump
Hondata S300
#9
thanks guys and what about prices as for the set ups how much bc my buddy thinks hes gonnna get a b20/vtech with just a lil work to the head and get the 240 but i told him its alot more work and money then that my friend and we where getting into a argument about the b20/vtech on how much hp it gets with just stock parts i said about maybe 180 or sooo and he was like nah its 220 and i told him its not and that he will be spending alot of money to get to the 240 and i told him just go with a k20 and change ur hood it would be alot better bc it wont break down on him and it would last alot longer then the b20/vtech set up it may cost more but welll worth it
#10
...sorry bout the fuzzy pic, but its the only one I have of my block with no head
Last edited by civtegra90; 12-08-2007 at 12:50 AM.
#11
ooo ok i didnt know that. just every forum i read about b20's it says the blocks are prone to failing at around 215-220 whp becauseof the walls but i cant realy say so cuz i havent built one
#12
thanks guys and what about prices as for the set ups how much bc my buddy thinks hes gonnna get a b20/vtech with just a lil work to the head and get the 240 but i told him its alot more work and money then that my friend and we where getting into a argument about the b20/vtech on how much hp it gets with just stock parts i said about maybe 180 or sooo and he was like nah its 220 and i told him its not and that he will be spending alot of money to get to the 240 and i told him just go with a k20 and change ur hood it would be alot better bc it wont break down on him and it would last alot longer then the b20/vtech set up it may cost more but welll worth it
you mean you convinced your friend to do a K swap?....on an EF? lol he'll be spending even more money. it's putting 10g's in to a 1g car. if your friend has a b16 swap and has the tranny just tell him to get a type-r motor. sounds like he wants the power but doesn't wanna pay to play. a b20/vtec could be reliable too if it's built right and how well it's maintained. if your friend likes to drive it hard all the time, then regardless of what motor he puts in, it won't last long.
where did he get the idea that a stock b20 bottom end and stock b16 head will net him 220hp?? he's obviously listening to the wrong ppl and clearly needs to do some research.
you can just put a price on a build like i said before, it's not that simple. it all depends on what you put in it and who does the work.
#13
your look at $1700-$2000. That should include :
B20 small block
b16 head
vtec solenoid
skunk 2 intake manifold
CAI
11:1 high compression pistons
skunk2 fuel rail
4-1 headers with catback or straight pipe
and abit of other stuff
also to bore out the head to 84mm and your set!
B20 small block
b16 head
vtec solenoid
skunk 2 intake manifold
CAI
11:1 high compression pistons
skunk2 fuel rail
4-1 headers with catback or straight pipe
and abit of other stuff
also to bore out the head to 84mm and your set!
#14
^ ha! i wish it was that cheap
b20 complete shortblock - $500 - seen on various forums.
b16 head - $200-$400 depending if bare or complete
S2 IM - $250 used
CAI - AEM Type-r CAI - $200
RS Machines PR3 pistons in 84.5mm (will give 11.1-6:1 CR) $250-$300
4-1 header - $400
machine work (press pistons onto rods, shot peen rods, balance and micropolish crank, bore and hone cylinders etc) $400-$500
GE ls/vtec kit $250
ARP head studs, rod bolts and main studs - approx. $300
ACL race bearings. $100-$150
Timing belt $100
type-r oil pump $140
type-r water pump $80
add that up.....and theres still more to go. i haven't even mentioned cams, valve springs, retainers, cam gears, gaskets or machine work to the head yet.
$1700-$2000 b20 or ls/vtec won't last long.
b20 complete shortblock - $500 - seen on various forums.
b16 head - $200-$400 depending if bare or complete
S2 IM - $250 used
CAI - AEM Type-r CAI - $200
RS Machines PR3 pistons in 84.5mm (will give 11.1-6:1 CR) $250-$300
4-1 header - $400
machine work (press pistons onto rods, shot peen rods, balance and micropolish crank, bore and hone cylinders etc) $400-$500
GE ls/vtec kit $250
ARP head studs, rod bolts and main studs - approx. $300
ACL race bearings. $100-$150
Timing belt $100
type-r oil pump $140
type-r water pump $80
add that up.....and theres still more to go. i haven't even mentioned cams, valve springs, retainers, cam gears, gaskets or machine work to the head yet.
$1700-$2000 b20 or ls/vtec won't last long.