Machining?
#2
well it doesnt work that way.
for a 383 you only need to bore the engine out 30 over...aka 0.030 inches over.
second step is the stroke. it needs to be increased from 3.48" to 3.75". and how do you do that? crankshaft!!!! thats where the money comes in...
to bore out a motor it needs to be bored AND honed to the new pistons. so get the block stripped, and get the pistons. a machine shop would charge around 2-5 hundred for such work. i did mine in my auto shop. it was free. new pistions only run me about 100 bucks or so for some regular ol' keith black hypereutectic aluminum flat top pistions. personally if i were building a 383 that i actually planned on using, i'd do better than keith black pistons, and i'd go with forged pistions, and a forged stroker crank, and of course, forged H beam rods.
for example, my dad did a 383 in his 88 vette, didnt go all out with forged or anything, and he had his 700R4 rebuilt same time. grand total was 5,500 or so. ended up with a mean 11.5:1 compression and oodles of torque
for a 383 you only need to bore the engine out 30 over...aka 0.030 inches over.
second step is the stroke. it needs to be increased from 3.48" to 3.75". and how do you do that? crankshaft!!!! thats where the money comes in...
to bore out a motor it needs to be bored AND honed to the new pistons. so get the block stripped, and get the pistons. a machine shop would charge around 2-5 hundred for such work. i did mine in my auto shop. it was free. new pistions only run me about 100 bucks or so for some regular ol' keith black hypereutectic aluminum flat top pistions. personally if i were building a 383 that i actually planned on using, i'd do better than keith black pistons, and i'd go with forged pistions, and a forged stroker crank, and of course, forged H beam rods.
for example, my dad did a 383 in his 88 vette, didnt go all out with forged or anything, and he had his 700R4 rebuilt same time. grand total was 5,500 or so. ended up with a mean 11.5:1 compression and oodles of torque
#4
Thread Starter
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i knew about the parts i was just wondering what it would cost for the main block prep. So what i understand from what you say get the pistons from the kit and go from there.
Another question when i was looking at stroker kits on www.enginekits.com, they have four different piston sizes, standard piston, .030, .040 and .60. What difference does this make in the kit? Also Rear main seals what is best 1 or 2 peice seal?
Another question when i was looking at stroker kits on www.enginekits.com, they have four different piston sizes, standard piston, .030, .040 and .60. What difference does this make in the kit? Also Rear main seals what is best 1 or 2 peice seal?
#5
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,556
From: La Crosse, WI / Minneapolis, MN
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yeah thats what the guy I bought mine from did
• Cola 4340 Forged Crankshaft 3.75” stroke
• Summit Pro-Line 4340 forged rods 6” length
• Wiseco forged aluminum pistons. +.030”
• AFR 210 competition CNC ported heads
(Crower Stainless Steel rocker arms w/ titanium retainers)
• Comp Cams custom Hydraulic Roller – 236/242 @ .050 .625” / .576” lift
• Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller lifters
• All bearings , piston rings and pistons skirts have frictionless coating applied by Swain Tech. Piston Tops were also high temp ceramic coated.
• Cola 4340 Forged Crankshaft 3.75” stroke
• Summit Pro-Line 4340 forged rods 6” length
• Wiseco forged aluminum pistons. +.030”
• AFR 210 competition CNC ported heads
(Crower Stainless Steel rocker arms w/ titanium retainers)
• Comp Cams custom Hydraulic Roller – 236/242 @ .050 .625” / .576” lift
• Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller lifters
• All bearings , piston rings and pistons skirts have frictionless coating applied by Swain Tech. Piston Tops were also high temp ceramic coated.
#6
Thread Starter
Experienced GTcars Poster
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,972
From: Deployed
Rep Power: 744
What's difference does it make in the piston sizes stated in my previous post?
What is better, 1 or 2 piece rear seal?
I had some more but i cant think of them right now...
What is better, 1 or 2 piece rear seal?
I had some more but i cant think of them right now...
#7
it depends on what youre working with. what year block is it? that determines 1 or 2 piece rear main. and the oversize depends on what youre going for. a 383 is .030 over, so you need 0.030 oversize pistons.
#11
if its a 79 its most likely 2 piece.
ya know to make things easier, buy my block. everything is done. bored 0.030 over, new main bearings, rod bearings, cam bearings, rings, pistons, and freeze plugs and seals. in primo shape baby.
ya know to make things easier, buy my block. everything is done. bored 0.030 over, new main bearings, rod bearings, cam bearings, rings, pistons, and freeze plugs and seals. in primo shape baby.
#12
#13
Originally Posted by Adric
yeah thats what the guy I bought mine from did
• Cola 4340 Forged Crankshaft 3.75” stroke
• Summit Pro-Line 4340 forged rods 6” length
• Wiseco forged aluminum pistons. +.030”
• AFR 210 competition CNC ported heads
(Crower Stainless Steel rocker arms w/ titanium retainers)
• Comp Cams custom Hydraulic Roller – 236/242 @ .050 .625” / .576” lift
• Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller lifters
• All bearings , piston rings and pistons skirts have frictionless coating applied by Swain Tech. Piston Tops were also high temp ceramic coated.
• Cola 4340 Forged Crankshaft 3.75” stroke
• Summit Pro-Line 4340 forged rods 6” length
• Wiseco forged aluminum pistons. +.030”
• AFR 210 competition CNC ported heads
(Crower Stainless Steel rocker arms w/ titanium retainers)
• Comp Cams custom Hydraulic Roller – 236/242 @ .050 .625” / .576” lift
• Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller lifters
• All bearings , piston rings and pistons skirts have frictionless coating applied by Swain Tech. Piston Tops were also high temp ceramic coated.
#14
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,556
From: La Crosse, WI / Minneapolis, MN
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Originally Posted by Mikerock
well since everything is already forged..... throw a turbo on that *****!