does the brand of HID make a big difference?
#1
does the brand of HID make a big difference?
hey there guys, thnx for helping out, im thinking of upgrading my lights to HID, but upon looking, there's like at least 20 brands of HID kits out on the market, which makes me wonder if there's a quality difference between them, and if so, which one do u guys think is the best overall quality and longest lasting without problems. also, im thinking of getting 10,000k, is that too white? should i get a blueish purpleish tint like the bmw and mercedes?
#2
the best brand budy is the OEM brand, people that use OEM HID , like the one from the acura 3.2 TL or the acura TSX, TL, S2k, ETC are sure to have the most reliable and long lasting HIDS out on the market, with less problems. Oem Hids are also masters at what they were made for,,, safety, they shine at a good K level to balance brightness with looks.
if you want OEM hids i have a set of 3.2 TL hids for sale and a set of TSX HIDS for sale . pm me if u want
if you want OEM hids i have a set of 3.2 TL hids for sale and a set of TSX HIDS for sale . pm me if u want
#5
there is a major difference between brand
A few things you may want to think bout..
10,000K ?? Err.. thats way in the blue to purple colour range.. and will run into issues with MTO.. cause LEGALLY it's suppose to be white or yellowish
You want 4100K-4300K
those are the whitest one, but will colour shift with age and get better cut off colour.. 6000K is alright.. but when they get old.. they turn really blue.. 8000K is just mad Blue.. you see those in those riced out cars usually..
D2S phillips or Osram are the best capsule(bulb)
D2R has a shield so it blocks partial light
Dont' go with any other knock off for capsule IMO
You'll need to get projectors and not those fake snap on kind.. our normal light reflector isn't designed to reflect HID correctly.. so you'll get lots of glare to oncoming traffic and light in all weird places.. I"m sure we've all got blinded by ****'s before
Here's an example of HID in normal headlights
vs. HId in projector
Bang for the buck for projector.. Hella 90mm's
Best one is from Acura TL's/TSX ( not including bi-xenons )
Ballast is also important along with brand Gen IV allows the igniter to be further from the ballast vs. Gen III where it's part of the ballast.. which makes designing the whole thing harder cause you ballast is literally right behind the capsule ( bulb ) and mounted to it.
Cheaper ballast will take longer warm up time thus killin the capsule quicker and drawing unecessary current for too long
Then IMO run seperate power lines with relays for it since ballast during startup warm up the ballast pushes bout 23k volts so do the math of 12V converting to 23K Volts equaling amerage.. those thin lil wires won't be surviving for very long.. mmmm.. fire... melting..
Then you'll have to design and retro it into your car
List goes on.. but I"m done for now cause I have to head out
A few things you may want to think bout..
10,000K ?? Err.. thats way in the blue to purple colour range.. and will run into issues with MTO.. cause LEGALLY it's suppose to be white or yellowish
You want 4100K-4300K
those are the whitest one, but will colour shift with age and get better cut off colour.. 6000K is alright.. but when they get old.. they turn really blue.. 8000K is just mad Blue.. you see those in those riced out cars usually..
D2S phillips or Osram are the best capsule(bulb)
D2R has a shield so it blocks partial light
Dont' go with any other knock off for capsule IMO
You'll need to get projectors and not those fake snap on kind.. our normal light reflector isn't designed to reflect HID correctly.. so you'll get lots of glare to oncoming traffic and light in all weird places.. I"m sure we've all got blinded by ****'s before
Here's an example of HID in normal headlights
vs. HId in projector
Bang for the buck for projector.. Hella 90mm's
Best one is from Acura TL's/TSX ( not including bi-xenons )
Ballast is also important along with brand Gen IV allows the igniter to be further from the ballast vs. Gen III where it's part of the ballast.. which makes designing the whole thing harder cause you ballast is literally right behind the capsule ( bulb ) and mounted to it.
Cheaper ballast will take longer warm up time thus killin the capsule quicker and drawing unecessary current for too long
Then IMO run seperate power lines with relays for it since ballast during startup warm up the ballast pushes bout 23k volts so do the math of 12V converting to 23K Volts equaling amerage.. those thin lil wires won't be surviving for very long.. mmmm.. fire... melting..
Then you'll have to design and retro it into your car
List goes on.. but I"m done for now cause I have to head out
#6
yea drifter has got a point when u instal those TL hids in ur regular headlight it kinda looks crappy. u wud have to use the projectores in the Headlight to retro fit them into ur car. 3.2 tl HIDS though do not come wit a projector OEM. so thats wy those are ok to use in ur old headlight even though u will have problems alligning the bulb ...
#7
Here's a quick comparison vid of hid KIT 8000K vs. true HID retro with S2000 projector and 4300K.. Stolen.. hee hee look how much light output difference there is
http://www.littodevilperformance.com...comparison.wmv
There's also some OEM car with HID without projector.. those housing are designed and angled to work with HID.. Next time you drive around.. look @ the difference between light output, pattern, how much they light up the road and the rainbow affect of HID kit in a non HID housing ( you'll see lots of those around ) and look out for Acura, S2000, bimmer, Audi ( just to name a few ) that comes OEM with HID.. there is a major difference. Granted it's hard to make some cars look good with projectors
IMO doesn't look good just to name one
Or you can make it look amazing if you do it right.. just look how aggressive the whole front end of a Cirrus look compared to stock
http://www.littodevilperformance.com...comparison.wmv
There's also some OEM car with HID without projector.. those housing are designed and angled to work with HID.. Next time you drive around.. look @ the difference between light output, pattern, how much they light up the road and the rainbow affect of HID kit in a non HID housing ( you'll see lots of those around ) and look out for Acura, S2000, bimmer, Audi ( just to name a few ) that comes OEM with HID.. there is a major difference. Granted it's hard to make some cars look good with projectors
IMO doesn't look good just to name one
Or you can make it look amazing if you do it right.. just look how aggressive the whole front end of a Cirrus look compared to stock
#9
Originally Posted by drifter420
there is a major difference between brand
A few things you may want to think bout..
10,000K ?? Err.. thats way in the blue to purple colour range.. and will run into issues with MTO.. cause LEGALLY it's suppose to be white or yellowish
You want 4100K-4300K
those are the whitest one, but will colour shift with age and get better cut off colour.. 6000K is alright.. but when they get old.. they turn really blue.. 8000K is just mad Blue.. you see those in those riced out cars usually..
D2S phillips or Osram are the best capsule(bulb)
D2R has a shield so it blocks partial light
Dont' go with any other knock off for capsule IMO
You'll need to get projectors and not those fake snap on kind.. our normal light reflector isn't designed to reflect HID correctly.. so you'll get lots of glare to oncoming traffic and light in all weird places.. I"m sure we've all got blinded by ****'s before
Here's an example of HID in normal headlights
vs. HId in projector
Bang for the buck for projector.. Hella 90mm's
Best one is from Acura TL's/TSX ( not including bi-xenons )
Ballast is also important along with brand Gen IV allows the igniter to be further from the ballast vs. Gen III where it's part of the ballast.. which makes designing the whole thing harder cause you ballast is literally right behind the capsule ( bulb ) and mounted to it.
Cheaper ballast will take longer warm up time thus killin the capsule quicker and drawing unecessary current for too long
Then IMO run seperate power lines with relays for it since ballast during startup warm up the ballast pushes bout 23k volts so do the math of 12V converting to 23K Volts equaling amerage.. those thin lil wires won't be surviving for very long.. mmmm.. fire... melting..
Then you'll have to design and retro it into your car
List goes on.. but I"m done for now cause I have to head out
A few things you may want to think bout..
10,000K ?? Err.. thats way in the blue to purple colour range.. and will run into issues with MTO.. cause LEGALLY it's suppose to be white or yellowish
You want 4100K-4300K
those are the whitest one, but will colour shift with age and get better cut off colour.. 6000K is alright.. but when they get old.. they turn really blue.. 8000K is just mad Blue.. you see those in those riced out cars usually..
D2S phillips or Osram are the best capsule(bulb)
D2R has a shield so it blocks partial light
Dont' go with any other knock off for capsule IMO
You'll need to get projectors and not those fake snap on kind.. our normal light reflector isn't designed to reflect HID correctly.. so you'll get lots of glare to oncoming traffic and light in all weird places.. I"m sure we've all got blinded by ****'s before
Here's an example of HID in normal headlights
vs. HId in projector
Bang for the buck for projector.. Hella 90mm's
Best one is from Acura TL's/TSX ( not including bi-xenons )
Ballast is also important along with brand Gen IV allows the igniter to be further from the ballast vs. Gen III where it's part of the ballast.. which makes designing the whole thing harder cause you ballast is literally right behind the capsule ( bulb ) and mounted to it.
Cheaper ballast will take longer warm up time thus killin the capsule quicker and drawing unecessary current for too long
Then IMO run seperate power lines with relays for it since ballast during startup warm up the ballast pushes bout 23k volts so do the math of 12V converting to 23K Volts equaling amerage.. those thin lil wires won't be surviving for very long.. mmmm.. fire... melting..
Then you'll have to design and retro it into your car
List goes on.. but I"m done for now cause I have to head out
Really, dont bother going HID unless you have projectors first.
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