Rep Power: 694

**Please read through the entire post before proceeding with this project**

I wanted to shave my door handles but still use my factory key fob for popping the doors and trunk lid. I found this schematic from Shoebox's Tech Aids website, so props to him for providing this info. I'm also going to throw some screenshots from his website on here, so credit to him for that also.
I also got encouragement from the guys on this website, so thanks to you all.
This is a pretty lengthy post 'cuz I'm not sure how detailed I should go, so I'm going all the way.

Tools needed:
#2 Phillips Screwdriver
#3 Phillips Screwdriver
Wire Strippers
Splice Crimpers
Needlenose Pliers
1/4" Ratchet & Socket set
Ohm Meter
Cordless drill and bits set
Sharpie marker

Items Needed:
2 Push / Pull solenoid kits - I recommend 45 - 50 lb solenoids. These kits come with all the hardware you need for this mod. (The ones I got were from a buddy of mine who had some spares laying around, so not sure how many lb's they pull, but they're pretty light and sometimes it takes a couple pushes of the button to pop the door. 50lb purchase in the near future. )
Wire Splices


1. Remove the door panels and passenger kick panel.


2. Remove door handle hardware. Reattach the electrical connectors to the power window and lock module. Raise the window full up so you can get to the exterior door handle hardware. Remove the 2 retaining nuts and pull the handle out. Be careful not to scratch your paint, the pushrod is still attached. This part takes a little maneuvering, but remove the plastic retainer for the pushrod and remove the door handle (I couldn't find any way to do this from the interior so if anyone has a better way, please post up.) Next unscrew the pushrod from the actual door latch mechanism. Make sure that the part the pushrod screws into remains intact, 'cuz you'll be using it again later. Pop the door lock pushrod from the key cylinder and from the latch mechanism and discard. Pop the interior door lock pushrod from the latch mechanism and discard.
Attachment 6440
Attachment 6439


3. Install solenoids. The solenoid kit comes with all attaching hardware. This pic shows what parts I actually used. Solenoid, solenoid bracket, threaded insert, clip.
Attachment 6435
Wish I took a pic of the solenoid installed, but I'll try to explain as best I can. First, install the threaded insert with the split side out, into where you unscrewed the exterior door handle pushrod. Thread it in so that the split is flush with the plastic retainer (if that makes sense). Slide the metal attaching clip into the split in the threaded insert, and secure with washer and nut. Slide the solenoid into the clip, and position the solenoid to where there is no play in the attaching clip, and the door latch is fully in the up position. When the solenoid activates, it will pull down, opening the latch (and door). I hope I'm explaining this well, but I'll try to draw a rough schetch in MS Paint.
Attachment 6436
So, attach the solenoid to the latch mechanism with the clip. The weight of the solenoid will pull the latch down, so raise the solenoid so the latch is in the up position with no play, make sure the solenoid will rest on the bottom of the clip, ready to pull. Sorry 'bout this portion. Really hard for me to explain, and my dumbass should have taken pics.
Now, with the solenoid in position with the bracket toward the back of the door, mark your holes with a sharpie marker and drill your holes. Start with a small bit and work your way up to ensure a clean hole.
Once you have your holes drilled, make sure your solenoid mounts properly, then remove the mounting bolts so you can still get to the electrical contacts.


4. Prep the keyless entry receiver wiring.
On the keyless entry receiver, pull connector 2 (the bigger of the 2 connectors) and give yourself some room to work.
Here is a close-up of the stock configuration.
Attachment 6437
Now cut pins G and H. Splice Pin G into Wire H. Cap pin H and wire G.
Here is a pic of the new wire routing.
Attachment 6441


4. Door wiring.
(do the passenger's side first. This will ensure you get proper readings when you do the driver's side.)
Pull the door lock actuator electrical connector. Clip the wires about 3" from the connector (this will leave you room to splice it back on in case you change your mind about this mod.)
Now move to the driver's side.
Again, clip the wires about 3" from the connector. Follow the gray wire back to where it splits. Clip the splice from both sides and discard. Now read the 2 gray wires from the chassis side (not from the electrical connector side.) One of the wires will read open (cap this wire. it is no longer used.) and the other is grounded through the keyless entry receiver, so will show a slight resistance. This will be your power wire. Now splice this wire to the gray wire going toward the solenoid. Now find a reliable ground wire (I used the ground from the window buttons) and cut it near the split in the wire harness to give you some play. Cut the tan wire and cap the end going into the wire harness. Now splice the tan wire from the solenoid into the ground wire (make sure you splice it so that the ground is "reattached" along with the tan wire). Strip the gray and tan wires going to the solenoid about an inch, wrap them around the posts and tighten the nuts. Now finally install the solenoid and attach it to the clip.
The driver's side is done. Press the "door" button on your factory key fob to make sure the solenoid activates. Once you're happy with it, reinstall the door panel and close up the driver's side.


On the passenger's side, cut the gray wire and cap the end going into the harness. Find your reliable ground again, and cut it near the split in the harness. Now splice your gray wire into the ground, again making sure the ground is reattached. Strip the gray and tan about an inch again to connect to the solenoid as you did on the driver's side.
Test the passenger's solenoid by pressing the "un lock" button on your key fob. Again, when you're happy with it, reinstall the door panel and kick panel, and call the job done!

Here's a pic of the final wiring schematic.
Attachment 6442



I'll get some good pics up asap, and I hope I've explained this well but if not, please feel free to pm me and I'll do what I can to help.

Have fun!

 
Rep Power: 765

hey good lookin instructions if i had a camaro i would probably give this a shot nicely done

 
Rep Power: 694

Thanks man

 
Rep Power: 677

50 lb solenoids?? I've never understand why people want to use such big solenoids. The one's in my doors are 7lb and I have never had any problems with them. Hit the button once and the door pops open about an inch, and that is without door poppers! Maybe I've just been lucky with mine, I don't know.

 
Rep Power: 748

def not a mod ive ever done.. but all the research i have done on it in the past does recommend 40-50lb solenoids due to the weight of our doors

 
Rep Power: 677

But the weight of the doors really has nothing to do with it. The weight of the doors matters with door poppers, but there not even needed on camaros. The only thing that really matters is how much pressure you need to operate the door latch and make it open. Thank about it, you don't have to use 50lbs of pressure when you pull up on your door handle. So why would you need 50 lbs to do the same process, cause that is all the solenoid is doing is replacing the handle really. What does everybody think?? Not trying to be a smart a$$ or anything just trying figure it out together.

 
Rep Power: 0

That really makes sense, you're not lifting the doors. You're just using enough power to get the door latch to work.

 
Rep Power: 748

i agree it does make lots of sense.. and come to think of it what i read about were 40-50lb door poppers.. not the solenoids

 
Rep Power: 677

And honestly you don't even need poppers on a camaro. The doors are heavy, but for some reason you don't need them. I have seen some cars and trucks use huge poppers to get there doors to open. With the camaro, when you hit the switch to activate the solenoids, the door pops open very nicely about an inch. I sure door poppers would make it open more, but they are not really needed on camaros. But its all about how far you want your door to open.

 
Rep Power: 1069

I think the poppers are more for show off purposes (you see the door shoot open 6 inches you notice)

 
Rep Power: 748

agreed.. i wouldnt be looking for that effect the solenoids would be enough for me

 
Rep Power: 694

Yeah, agreed.
Come to find out I was having problems that day because I had my batteries in my key fob were almost dead. lol
Replaced the batteries and haven't had a problem since.
But, I've been down and out for a while with medical issues and haven't been able to do the actual door handle shave yet.
Can't wait to do it though... but it's so damned hot outside right now.
Might have to wait 'till after I move in October.
We'll see...